I think I am probably just going to get another clothes washer rather than
try to fix this one. That's mostly because I am not that good at repairing
washers and dryers etc, and the cost of getting someone to repair it often
comes close to the cost just buying a new one anyway.

But, here's the story in case anyone has any thoughts or suggestions:

It is a GE Heavy Duty Super Capacity clothes washer, Model number
WBSR1060T5AA . Here's the User Manual:
http://www.geappliances.com/search/o...fs/49-9981.PDF

I did go to http://repairclinic.com which I always do, and I looked at all
of the videos that I could find there and read the symptom list.

Here is what happens: When set on "Small" load size, it works fine, When
set on "Large" load size, it leaks a little water (not much, maybe a pint or
two) on the floor. The water comes out onto the floor from under the washer
near the left rear while facing the washer. On "Super" load size, it leaks
a lot. Lots of water coming out on the floor from under the washer on the
left rear side.

When I open the lid during the spin cycle, it keeps spinning, which seems
unusual since I thought most washers had a shutoff that prevents spinning
with the lid open. When I open the lid while agitating, I can stick a pen
or whatever into the lid switch so it keeps agitating with the lid open.

On the "Super" load size setting, I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away. And, it appears that the force of
the spinning causes the already-high water level to rise up and flow over
the top of the tub -- apparently. that's what is causes the water on the
floor. On the "Small" and "large" load size setting, it does drain first,
then spins, but a little water still seems to leak on when set on the
"Large" load size setting.

Too bad that our friend Stormy isn't still here with us because I'd bet that
he would have an idea or two as to what the problem may be.

The washer isn't in my house. It is in a home that has foster kids in it.
So, most likely, instead of me trying to figure it out, I will probably just
buy a new one. I usually buy clothes washers at Lowes because they have
free next day delivery and they set the new one up and they take the old one
away.

But, still, I usually like to have an idea of what the underlying problem
and/or fix is. Once in a while it is something simple that I could do
myself.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

There's probably a small hole in the tub somewhere above the "small load"
water line. Fill it to the "small load" level and then add water slowly by
hand and you can probably pinpoint the level. I would suggest adding it
very slowly. If you wait long enough between each additional amount of
water you add over the small waterline you should see leaking shortly after
it reaches the suspect hole.

--
Bobby G.

"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it
starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.


Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would probably
just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs about $32.
And this video shows how to replace it -- not too difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0

"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it
starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs about $32.
And this video shows how to replace it -- not too difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0


P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the water
level pressure switch look even easier:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E



Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw

On Saturday, August 20, 2016 at 8:48:35 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it
starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs about $32.
And this video shows how to replace it -- not too difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0


P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the water
level pressure switch look even easier:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E



Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw



if the machine has ran well for over 5 years, the new spiffy machine will be a disappointment......

new models are built on the cheap as junk

On 8/20/2016 11:47 AM, TomR wrote:
I think I am probably just going to get another clothes washer rather than
try to fix this one. That's mostly because I am not that good at repairing
washers and dryers etc, and the cost of getting someone to repair it often
comes close to the cost just buying a new one anyway.

But, here's the story in case anyone has any thoughts or suggestions:

It is a GE Heavy Duty Super Capacity clothes washer, Model number
WBSR1060T5AA . Here's the User Manual:
http://www.geappliances.com/search/o...fs/49-9981.PDF

I did go to http://repairclinic.com which I always do, and I looked at all
of the videos that I could find there and read the symptom list.

Here is what happens: When set on "Small" load size, it works fine, When
set on "Large" load size, it leaks a little water (not much, maybe a pint or
two) on the floor. The water comes out onto the floor from under the washer
near the left rear while facing the washer. On "Super" load size, it leaks
a lot. Lots of water coming out on the floor from under the washer on the
left rear side.

When I open the lid during the spin cycle, it keeps spinning, which seems
unusual since I thought most washers had a shutoff that prevents spinning
with the lid open. When I open the lid while agitating, I can stick a pen
or whatever into the lid switch so it keeps agitating with the lid open.

On the "Super" load size setting, I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away. And, it appears that the force of
the spinning causes the already-high water level to rise up and flow over
the top of the tub -- apparently. that's what is causes the water on the
floor. On the "Small" and "large" load size setting, it does drain first,
then spins, but a little water still seems to leak on when set on the
"Large" load size setting.

Too bad that our friend Stormy isn't still here with us because I'd bet that
he would have an idea or two as to what the problem may be.

The washer isn't in my house. It is in a home that has foster kids in it.
So, most likely, instead of me trying to figure it out, I will probably just
buy a new one. I usually buy clothes washers at Lowes because they have
free next day delivery and they set the new one up and they take the old one
away.

But, still, I usually like to have an idea of what the underlying problem
and/or fix is. Once in a while it is something simple that I could do
myself.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.


Years ago I had a GE top loader that leaked as you describe.
The tub was steel, not stainless or plastic.
Inspecting the tub revealed a band under the rim that had rusted
through. While clearly not a permanent fix I just epoxied the band and
any holes. The repair lasted for at least 5 years when I sold the house.

I think your diagnosis is correct, but just in case check a couple more things.

My washer left a flood on the floor recently. Looking on the internet, it seemed the most likely cause was the failure of the input valve to shut off.. So we started turning off the hoses after using it. But it could also be a timer thing, and a couple of times the timer seemed to not complete the cycle.

It didn't happen every time, nor even that often. But finally I stayed and watched the whole wash, and that time it overflowed - but not from the washer. The drain pipe was backing up. On a small load it handled it, but on a full load it didn't.

I snaked it out good and got back some scraps of yarn. It didn't seem like enough to cause a backup but it hasn't recurred.

So, lots of things that can cause this. A leak, failure of the fill valve to close, failure of the timer, small clog in the drain pipe. Gotta check them all.

On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

"TimR" wrote in message
...
I think your diagnosis is correct, but just in case check a couple more
things.

My washer left a flood on the floor recently. Looking on the internet, it
seemed the most likely cause was the failure of the input valve to shut off.
So we started turning off the hoses after using it. But it could also be a
timer thing, and a couple of times the timer seemed to not complete the
cycle.

It didn't happen every time, nor even that often. But finally I stayed and
watched the whole wash, and that time it overflowed - but not from the
washer. The drain pipe was backing up. On a small load it handled it, but
on a full load it didn't.

I snaked it out good and got back some scraps of yarn. It didn't seem like
enough to cause a backup but it hasn't recurred.

So, lots of things that can cause this. A leak, failure of the fill valve
to close, failure of the timer, small clog in the drain pipe. Gotta check
them all.


---------------------------

Thanks. We did spend a long time on two occasions trying to re-create the
situation. We were able to re-create it by doing wash cycles over and over
and we were careful to check those other options such as a clogged drain
line or a leaking drain hose etc.

On 8/21/2016 3:26 AM, TomR wrote:
"TimR" wrote in message
...
I think your diagnosis is correct, but just in case check a couple more
things.

My washer left a flood on the floor recently. Looking on the internet,
it seemed the most likely cause was the failure of the input valve to
shut off. So we started turning off the hoses after using it. But it
could also be a timer thing, and a couple of times the timer seemed to
not complete the cycle.

It didn't happen every time, nor even that often. But finally I stayed
and watched the whole wash, and that time it overflowed - but not from
the washer. The drain pipe was backing up. On a small load it handled
it, but on a full load it didn't.

I snaked it out good and got back some scraps of yarn. It didn't seem
like enough to cause a backup but it hasn't recurred.

So, lots of things that can cause this. A leak, failure of the fill
valve to close, failure of the timer, small clog in the drain pipe.
Gotta check them all.


---------------------------

Thanks. We did spend a long time on two occasions trying to re-create
the situation. We were able to re-create it by doing wash cycles over
and over and we were careful to check those other options such as a
clogged drain line or a leaking drain hose etc.

I had a washer that seemed to have some kind of issue with a clutch of
some sort that engaged too hard too early in the spin cycle, before the
water got pumped out enough, causing the water to rise up over the top
of the drum. The drum would spin hard right at the start, while there
was too much water in it. I just replaced the machine with one someone
was giving away at the time.

On Sat, 20 Aug 2016 17:47:35 -0400, "TomR" wrote:


Here is what happens: When set on "Small" load size, it works fine, When
set on "Large" load size, it leaks a little water (not much, maybe a pint or
two) on the floor. The water comes out onto the floor from under the washer
near the left rear while facing the washer. On "Super" load size, it leaks
a lot. Lots of water coming out on the floor from under the washer on the
left rear side.

When I open the lid during the spin cycle, it keeps spinning, which seems
unusual since I thought most washers had a shutoff that prevents spinning
with the lid open. When I open the lid while agitating, I can stick a pen
or whatever into the lid switch so it keeps agitating with the lid open.

That's really strange, because the spin cycle is more dangerous than
agitate, and they know it. And your lid switch works for agitate
but not spin? It should work for both. What make of machine is this?

On the "Super" load size setting, I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away. And, it appears that the force of
the spinning causes the already-high water level to rise up and flow over
the top of the tub -- apparently. that's what is causes the water on the

So now that you cleaned out the drain, what's happened with this
symptom?

floor. On the "Small" and "large" load size setting, it does drain first,
then spins, but a little water still seems to leak on when set on the
"Large" load size setting.

When I've been in a hurry and manually advancing the timer, I've
started the spin cycle when there is still 2 or 3 inches of water in
the drum. The whirlpool/kenmore continues to pump it out though maybe
not as completely as if I'd waited.

Too bad that our friend Stormy isn't still here with us because I'd bet that
he would have an idea or two as to what the problem may be.

Yes, it is. I miss him.

The washer isn't in my house. It is in a home that has foster kids in it.
So, most likely, instead of me trying to figure it out, I will probably just
buy a new one. I usually buy clothes washers at Lowes because they have
free next day delivery and they set the new one up and they take the old one
away.

I'd bet that Lowes has someone who buys the broken machines -- at
least I hope so, instead of just putting them in landfill -- so see my
other post about leaving then next repairman a note about whatever is
wrong. He'll have more time than you do and your note can let them
decide if your machine is worth selling, or buying. I'm sure there
are those that are so rusty Lowes doesn't try to sell them.

But, still, I usually like to have an idea of what the underlying problem
and/or fix is. Once in a while it is something simple that I could do
myself.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

On Sat, 20 Aug 2016 17:47:35 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I think I am probably just going to get another clothes washer rather than
try to fix this one. That's mostly because I am not that good at repairing
washers and dryers etc, and the cost of getting someone to repair it often
comes close to the cost just buying a new one anyway.

But, here's the story in case anyone has any thoughts or suggestions:

It is a GE Heavy Duty Super Capacity clothes washer, Model number
WBSR1060T5AA . Here's the User Manual:
http://www.geappliances.com/search/o...fs/49-9981.PDF

I did go to http://repairclinic.com which I always do, and I looked at all
of the videos that I could find there and read the symptom list.

Here is what happens: When set on "Small" load size, it works fine, When
set on "Large" load size, it leaks a little water (not much, maybe a pint or
two) on the floor. The water comes out onto the floor from under the washer
near the left rear while facing the washer. On "Super" load size, it leaks
a lot. Lots of water coming out on the floor from under the washer on the
left rear side.

When I open the lid during the spin cycle, it keeps spinning, which seems
unusual since I thought most washers had a shutoff that prevents spinning
with the lid open. When I open the lid while agitating, I can stick a pen
or whatever into the lid switch so it keeps agitating with the lid open.

On the "Super" load size setting, I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away. And, it appears that the force of
the spinning causes the already-high water level to rise up and flow over
the top of the tub -- apparently. that's what is causes the water on the
floor. On the "Small" and "large" load size setting, it does drain first,
then spins, but a little water still seems to leak on when set on the
"Large" load size setting.

Too bad that our friend Stormy isn't still here with us because I'd bet that
he would have an idea or two as to what the problem may be.

The washer isn't in my house. It is in a home that has foster kids in it.
So, most likely, instead of me trying to figure it out, I will probably just
buy a new one. I usually buy clothes washers at Lowes because they have
free next day delivery and they set the new one up and they take the old one
away.

But, still, I usually like to have an idea of what the underlying problem
and/or fix is. Once in a while it is something simple that I could do
myself.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.


Once saw a washer leak in a similar manner. Turned out to be one of a
tub stabilizer springs had broke. Push down on one side (several
places) the tub to see if returns to the normal position. If it
sticks, it might be a spring problem.

"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it
starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs about
$32. And this video shows how to replace it -- not too difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0

P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the water
level pressure switch look even easier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E

Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw

Since the water level pressure switch only costs about $32, and today I
confirmed that it is an easy switch-out, I am probably going to just try
replacing that part and see what happens. I'll check at the appliance parts
place near me to see if they have it in stock or need to order it. And,
I'll post back here what happens.

P.S. For some reason, on one of my computers, I can't se my own thread on
this topic. Very strange. I am on my home computer now and I can see it
here.

"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before it
starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs about
$32. And this video shows how to replace it -- not too difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0
P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the water
level pressure switch look even easier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E

Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw

Since the water level pressure switch only costs about $32, and today I
confirmed that it is an easy switch-out, I am probably going to just try
replacing that part and see what happens. I'll check at the appliance
parts place near me to see if they have it in stock or need to order it.
And, I'll post back here what happens.


Well, I went ahead and I bought the water level pressure switch. It ended
up costing $47 with the sales tax at my local appliance parts store. I took
a chance, bought it, and put it in -- very easy to do.

The bad news is that it didn't fix the problem. The washer still leaks
badly when set on large loads. So, I ended up wasting $47 and some time.
The appliance parts store does not accept returns of parts if they don't fix
the problem. I don't blame them for having that policy.

Now I am going to just buy a new washer.

On 8/24/2016 4:50 PM, TomR wrote:
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before
it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs
about $32. And this video shows how to replace it -- not too difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0
P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the
water level pressure switch look even easier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E

Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw

Since the water level pressure switch only costs about $32, and today
I confirmed that it is an easy switch-out, I am probably going to just
try replacing that part and see what happens. I'll check at the
appliance parts place near me to see if they have it in stock or need
to order it. And, I'll post back here what happens.


Well, I went ahead and I bought the water level pressure switch. It
ended up costing $47 with the sales tax at my local appliance parts
store. I took a chance, bought it, and put it in -- very easy to do.

The bad news is that it didn't fix the problem. The washer still leaks
badly when set on large loads. So, I ended up wasting $47 and some
time. The appliance parts store does not accept returns of parts if they
don't fix the problem. I don't blame them for having that policy.

Now I am going to just buy a new washer.


Might it be the air gap antisiphon thing just past the water solenoid?

"Taxed and Spent" wrote in message
...
On 8/24/2016 4:50 PM, TomR wrote:
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before
it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs
about $32. And this video shows how to replace it -- not too
difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0
P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the
water level pressure switch look even easier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E

Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw

Since the water level pressure switch only costs about $32, and today
I confirmed that it is an easy switch-out, I am probably going to just
try replacing that part and see what happens. I'll check at the
appliance parts place near me to see if they have it in stock or need
to order it. And, I'll post back here what happens.

Well, I went ahead and I bought the water level pressure switch. It
ended up costing $47 with the sales tax at my local appliance parts
store. I took a chance, bought it, and put it in -- very easy to do.

The bad news is that it didn't fix the problem. The washer still leaks
badly when set on large loads. So, I ended up wasting $47 and some
time. The appliance parts store does not accept returns of parts if they
don't fix the problem. I don't blame them for having that policy.

Now I am going to just buy a new washer.

Might it be the air gap antisiphon thing just past the water solenoid?

Thanks but don't think so. The water comes out from under the machine when
the tub is full and it starts to spin. It is not coming out from the drain
hose. But, even if your possible guess were correct, I wouldn't know how to
fix it myself. It would be out of my skill level without me doing a ton of
research and spending a lot of time taking the machine apart to try to
figure it out. At this point, I think I should just buy a new washer.

On 8/24/2016 9:47 PM, TomR wrote:
"Taxed and Spent" wrote in message
...
On 8/24/2016 4:50 PM, TomR wrote:
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before
it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs
about $32. And this video shows how to replace it -- not too
difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0
P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the
water level pressure switch look even easier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E

Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw

Since the water level pressure switch only costs about $32, and today
I confirmed that it is an easy switch-out, I am probably going to just
try replacing that part and see what happens. I'll check at the
appliance parts place near me to see if they have it in stock or need
to order it. And, I'll post back here what happens.

Well, I went ahead and I bought the water level pressure switch. It
ended up costing $47 with the sales tax at my local appliance parts
store. I took a chance, bought it, and put it in -- very easy to do.

The bad news is that it didn't fix the problem. The washer still leaks
badly when set on large loads. So, I ended up wasting $47 and some
time. The appliance parts store does not accept returns of parts if they
don't fix the problem. I don't blame them for having that policy.

Now I am going to just buy a new washer.

Might it be the air gap antisiphon thing just past the water solenoid?

Thanks but don't think so. The water comes out from under the machine
when the tub is full and it starts to spin. It is not coming out from
the drain hose. But, even if your possible guess were correct, I
wouldn't know how to fix it myself. It would be out of my skill level
without me doing a ton of research and spending a lot of time taking the
machine apart to try to figure it out. At this point, I think I should
just buy a new washer.





I just fixed mine, but it was leaking water on the floor during the fill
cycle.

"TomR" wrote in message ...

"Taxed and Spent" wrote in message
...
On 8/24/2016 4:50 PM, TomR wrote:
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before
it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs
about $32. And this video shows how to replace it -- not too
difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0
P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the
water level pressure switch look even easier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E

Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw

Since the water level pressure switch only costs about $32, and today
I confirmed that it is an easy switch-out, I am probably going to just
try replacing that part and see what happens. I'll check at the
appliance parts place near me to see if they have it in stock or need
to order it. And, I'll post back here what happens.

Well, I went ahead and I bought the water level pressure switch. It
ended up costing $47 with the sales tax at my local appliance parts
store. I took a chance, bought it, and put it in -- very easy to do.

The bad news is that it didn't fix the problem. The washer still leaks
badly when set on large loads. So, I ended up wasting $47 and some
time. The appliance parts store does not accept returns of parts if they
don't fix the problem. I don't blame them for having that policy.

Now I am going to just buy a new washer.

Might it be the air gap antisiphon thing just past the water solenoid?

Thanks but don't think so. The water comes out from under the machine when
the tub is full and it starts to spin. It is not coming out from the drain
hose. But, even if your possible guess were correct, I wouldn't know how to
fix it myself. It would be out of my skill level without me doing a ton of
research and spending a lot of time taking the machine apart to try to
figure it out. At this point, I think I should just buy a new washer.

It is not suppose to have any water in tub when machine start to spin
It looks like that sequencer is not doing what it suppose to do.

Have you tried that black **** called Fudgepack Putty?
That's wot I use on Miss Recktum's ****ty colostomy hole.

On Sat, 27 Aug 2016 10:05:37 -0700, "Colonel Edmund J. Burke"
wrote:

Have you tried that black **** called Fudgepack Putty?
That's wot I use on Miss Recktum's ****ty colostomy hole.

Wot does that other nigga 'Pleasance' use on YER leaking anus,
KKKoloon?

"Tony944" wrote in message
...


"TomR" wrote in message ...

"Taxed and Spent" wrote in message
...
On 8/24/2016 4:50 PM, TomR wrote:
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before
it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs
about $32. And this video shows how to replace it -- not too
difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0
P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the
water level pressure switch look even easier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E

Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw

Since the water level pressure switch only costs about $32, and today
I confirmed that it is an easy switch-out, I am probably going to just
try replacing that part and see what happens. I'll check at the
appliance parts place near me to see if they have it in stock or need
to order it. And, I'll post back here what happens.

Well, I went ahead and I bought the water level pressure switch. It
ended up costing $47 with the sales tax at my local appliance parts
store. I took a chance, bought it, and put it in -- very easy to do.

The bad news is that it didn't fix the problem. The washer still leaks
badly when set on large loads. So, I ended up wasting $47 and some
time. The appliance parts store does not accept returns of parts if they
don't fix the problem. I don't blame them for having that policy.

Now I am going to just buy a new washer.

Might it be the air gap antisiphon thing just past the water solenoid?

Thanks but don't think so. The water comes out from under the machine
when
the tub is full and it starts to spin. It is not coming out from the
drain
hose. But, even if your possible guess were correct, I wouldn't know how
to
fix it myself. It would be out of my skill level without me doing a ton of
research and spending a lot of time taking the machine apart to try to
figure it out. At this point, I think I should just buy a new washer.

It is not suppose to have any water in tub when machine start to spin
It looks like that sequencer is not doing what it suppose to do.

Thanks. I am not sure what the "sequencer" is -- maybe the timer? If so,
the timer would have cost $195 for just the part, so I didn't try that.

I did buy a new washer and the old one is gone. I put a sign on it
explaining what the symptoms were in case whoever got it wanted to try to
fix it. But the people who took it away said it would probably be used for
scrap metal.

On 8/27/2016 10:45 AM, NEMO wrote:
On Sat, 27 Aug 2016 10:05:37 -0700, "Colonel Edmund J. Burke"
wrote:

Have you tried that black **** called Fudgepack Putty?
That's wot I use on Miss Recktum's ****ty colostomy hole.

Wot does that other nigga 'Pleasance' use on YER leaking anus,
KKKoloon?


Are youse talkin' about Anal Leakage?
You whore!

On Sun, 28 Aug 2016 07:49:11 -0700, "Colonel Edmund J. Burke"
wrote:

On 8/27/2016 10:45 AM, NEMO wrote:
On Sat, 27 Aug 2016 10:05:37 -0700, "Colonel Edmund J. Burke"
wrote:

Have you tried that black **** called Fudgepack Putty?
That's wot I use on Miss Recktum's ****ty colostomy hole.

Wot does that other nigga 'Pleasance' use on YER leaking anus,
KKKoloon?


Are youse talkin' about Anal Leakage?
You whore!

You're well familiar with such, KKKoloon, you ole dripper!

"TomR" wrote in message ...

"Tony944" wrote in message
...


"TomR" wrote in message ...

"Taxed and Spent" wrote in message
...
On 8/24/2016 4:50 PM, TomR wrote:
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in message
...
"Paul" wrote in message
web.com...
On 8/20/2016 3:47 PM, TomR wrote:
I noticed that it fills up pretty high,
but instead of then draining out and water being pumped out before
it starts
spinning, it starts spinning right away.

Either a bad timer or water level pressure switch.

Thanks. If it's a bad timer, the part costs about $200, so I would
probably just buy a new washer.

But, if it's a bad water level pressure switch, the parts costs
about $32. And this video shows how to replace it -- not too
difficult:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt49b_bNPD0
P.S. Interesting. I found another video that makes replacing the
water level pressure switch look even easier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_3WfRff41E

Plus a video on how to test the water level pressure switch (which I
probably won't do since I don't have the tester anyway):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2MxNYWsVSw

Since the water level pressure switch only costs about $32, and today
I confirmed that it is an easy switch-out, I am probably going to just
try replacing that part and see what happens. I'll check at the
appliance parts place near me to see if they have it in stock or need
to order it. And, I'll post back here what happens.

Well, I went ahead and I bought the water level pressure switch. It
ended up costing $47 with the sales tax at my local appliance parts
store. I took a chance, bought it, and put it in -- very easy to do.

The bad news is that it didn't fix the problem. The washer still leaks
badly when set on large loads. So, I ended up wasting $47 and some
time. The appliance parts store does not accept returns of parts if they
don't fix the problem. I don't blame them for having that policy.

Now I am going to just buy a new washer.

Might it be the air gap antisiphon thing just past the water solenoid?

Thanks but don't think so. The water comes out from under the machine
when
the tub is full and it starts to spin. It is not coming out from the
drain
hose. But, even if your possible guess were correct, I wouldn't know how
to
fix it myself. It would be out of my skill level without me doing a ton of
research and spending a lot of time taking the machine apart to try to
figure it out. At this point, I think I should just buy a new washer.

It is not suppose to have any water in tub when machine start to spin
It looks like that sequencer is not doing what it suppose to do.

Thanks. I am not sure what the "sequencer" is -- maybe the timer? If so,
the timer would have cost $195 for just the part, so I didn't try that.

I did buy a new washer and the old one is gone. I put a sign on it
explaining what the symptoms were in case whoever got it wanted to try to
fix it. But the people who took it away said it would probably be used for
scrap metal.

sequencer and timer usually combine, but you did right thing by buying new
Machine.