On 3/27/2016 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 5:34:21 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 3/27/2016 4:01 PM, wrote:

Center posted, as your reply was.

If you are going to join the modern world and center post a response like normal people,
at least learn how to do it neatly.

What a mess you made of your response!


Yeah, Clare!

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Why do you need to shine the pipe ????

Copper tarnishes.

Get over it.

Andy

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 11:37:04 AM UTC-5, bob_villain wrote:
On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

...might I suggest the look of this: http://tinyurl.com/h6g8chy

That's a great site. I put it in my bookmarks. Thanks! ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Grateful Monster

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 11:37:06 PM UTC-4, Andy wrote:
On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Why do you need to shine the pipe ????

Why do you need to use 4 question marks to ask one question?

Copper tarnishes.

Get over it.

Andy

On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 20:37:00 -0700 (PDT), Andy
wrote:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Why do you need to shine the pipe ????

Copper tarnishes.

Get over it.

Andy

"...Preserve the shiny finish by spraying on a couple of coats of
Rust-Oleum clear polyurethane or clear coat. Alternatively, leave the
copper unfinished and let it take on a patina of age."

DerbyDad03 Wrote in message:
On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 5:34:21 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 3/27/2016 4:01 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 02:52:08 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:21:45 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:09:36 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 21:42:01 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...
Oh yea, WTF are you building? o_O

My guess is a moonshine still.

not with soldered joints I hope
Lead free silver solder.

Even lead free solder will give the whiskey a nasty wang. Stills are
usually solid copper with friction fittings.
Silver solder is used in commercial stills - along with brazing..
Pretty hard to make a "kettle" without soldering or brazing - an
expert can roll and beed the joi[When I did HVAC, we had lead free solder for water copper, such as replacing water heaters.]nts and get them ALMOST hooch-tite -
but any leak will cause the still to blow - so the outside of even a
well rolled seam will be soldered.

I really like glass for this but the size is somewhat limited. I have
used 5 gallon water bottles back when they were glass but you have to
be real careful bringing up the heat slowly and more importantly,
letting them cool down slowly. You can pour the mash out OK but let
them sit on a dry block of wood or something until they are just warm
to the touch before you load the next batch. I had a copper end cap
that was just a nice friction fit in the hole, inverted and a hole in
that for a 1/2" soft copper coil. I leaked a little but it worked. You
can cascade another one behind that for a "thumper" if you really want
to get sophisticated.
The stuff coming out of the thumper will burn in your lighter.



Center posted, as your reply was.

If you are going to join the modern world and center post

Centre post? That's one I've never heard of.

a response like normal people,

I consider myself 'normal'. I consider it logical to post in-line,
responding to the previous post point by point. Like a
conversation.

at least learn how to do it neatly.


What do you mean 'neatly'?

What a mess you made of your response!



I'm sure your admonishment will make him change his evil ways.





--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Maybe assemble everything, then buff all surfaces with emory cloth to get as close to the same finish as possible? Someone at a hobby store will probably know what kind of clear coating can be used to prevent tarnishing.

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 13:51:50 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Maybe assemble everything, then buff all surfaces with emory cloth to get as close to the same finish as possible? Someone at a hobby store will probably know what kind of clear coating can be used to prevent tarnishing.
Paste wax. It won't scratch and peel.

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 17:31:24 -0400, wrote:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Maybe assemble everything, then buff all surfaces with emory cloth to get as close to the same finish as possible? Someone at a hobby store will probably know what kind of clear coating can be used to prevent tarnishing.

Paste wax. It won't scratch and peel.

I'd try steel wool in various oughts; 000 or 0000 before Emory cloth
and then seal the shiny copper finish.

On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 5:57:01 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 17:31:24 -0400, wrote:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Maybe assemble everything, then buff all surfaces with emory cloth to get as close to the same finish as possible? Someone at a hobby store will probably know what kind of clear coating can be used to prevent tarnishing.

Paste wax. It won't scratch and peel.

I'd try steel wool in various oughts; 000 or 0000 before Emory cloth
and then seal the shiny copper finish.

I'll give a try. Thanks

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 14:56:55 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 17:31:24 -0400, wrote:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Maybe assemble everything, then buff all surfaces with emory cloth to get as close to the same finish as possible? Someone at a hobby store will probably know what kind of clear coating can be used to prevent tarnishing.

Paste wax. It won't scratch and peel.

I'd try steel wool in various oughts; 000 or 0000 before Emory cloth
and then seal the shiny copper finish.
Use "flitz" or "AutoSol" metal polish - or"NevRDull"

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 15:04:28 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I'd try steel wool in various oughts; 000 or 0000 before Emory cloth
and then seal the shiny copper finish.

I'll give a try. Thanks

You could also try 4000 grit wet/dry sandpaper ;-)

On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 6:41:49 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 15:04:28 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I'd try steel wool in various oughts; 000 or 0000 before Emory cloth
and then seal the shiny copper finish.

I'll give a try. Thanks

You could also try 4000 grit wet/dry sandpaper ;-)

Don't you think that's a bit too coarse? I have other options lying
around the shop. ;-)

http://tinyurl.com/MicroMesh12K

Full Link

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psjx7bxhsj.jpg

The 6K is probably closer to 10K since it's been used a couple of times.

The first time I tried Micro-mesh is when my son and I made this steering
mechanism for a Soap Box Derby car. 1/4" aluminum sandwiched between 1/8"
Acrylic.

http://tinyurl.com/DerbySteer

Full Link

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psi9pjxbgv.jpg

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 16:52:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 6:41:49 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 15:04:28 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I'd try steel wool in various oughts; 000 or 0000 before Emory cloth
and then seal the shiny copper finish.

I'll give a try. Thanks

You could also try 4000 grit wet/dry sandpaper ;-)

Don't you think that's a bit too coarse? I have other options lying
around the shop. ;-)

http://tinyurl.com/MicroMesh12K

Full Link

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psjx7bxhsj.jpg

The 6K is probably closer to 10K since it's been used a couple of times.

The first time I tried Micro-mesh is when my son and I made this steering
mechanism for a Soap Box Derby car. 1/4" aluminum sandwiched between 1/8"
Acrylic.

http://tinyurl.com/DerbySteer

Full Link

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psi9pjxbgv.jpg

I think you have a good solution with the 12K. G

Scratch my idea of 0000 steel wool.

On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 7:06:50 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 16:52:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 6:41:49 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 15:04:28 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I'd try steel wool in various oughts; 000 or 0000 before Emory cloth
and then seal the shiny copper finish.

I'll give a try. Thanks

You could also try 4000 grit wet/dry sandpaper ;-)

Don't you think that's a bit too coarse? I have other options lying
around the shop. ;-)

http://tinyurl.com/MicroMesh12K

Full Link

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psjx7bxhsj.jpg

The 6K is probably closer to 10K since it's been used a couple of times.

The first time I tried Micro-mesh is when my son and I made this steering
mechanism for a Soap Box Derby car. 1/4" aluminum sandwiched between 1/8"
Acrylic.

http://tinyurl.com/DerbySteer

Full Link

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psi9pjxbgv.jpg

I think you have a good solution with the 12K. G

Scratch my idea of 0000 steel wool.

"Scratch" is to the point! ^L*

wrote in message ...
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 14:56:55 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 17:31:24 -0400, wrote:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Maybe assemble everything, then buff all surfaces with emory cloth to get as close to the same finish as possible? Someone at a hobby store will probably know what kind of clear coating can be used to prevent tarnishing.

Paste wax. It won't scratch and peel.

I'd try steel wool in various oughts; 000 or 0000 before Emory cloth
and then seal the shiny copper finish.
Use "flitz" or "AutoSol" metal polish - or"NevRDull"

Toothpaste is good -- and it leaves your copper smelling minty clean! :O)

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 13:08:48 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

wrote in message ...
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 14:56:55 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 17:31:24 -0400, wrote:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Maybe assemble everything, then buff all surfaces with emory cloth to get as close to the same finish as possible? Someone at a hobby store will probably know what kind of clear coating can be used to prevent tarnishing.

Paste wax. It won't scratch and peel.

I'd try steel wool in various oughts; 000 or 0000 before Emory cloth
and then seal the shiny copper finish.
Use "flitz" or "AutoSol" metal polish - or"NevRDull"

Toothpaste is good -- and it leaves your copper smelling minty clean! :O)

Half a lemon and salt, cleans copper up to.