I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

In article ,
says...

I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Try Brasso.

--
RonNNN

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 15:44:09 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

Wrot copper fittings are cold formed in a mold. Pipe is extruded. If
you don't lacquer them or something they will both tarnish.

On 3/26/2016 6:44 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg


Two factors. They use a slightly different alloy in each and the
manufacturing process is different. I believe that is a bit of zinc in
the fitting to make them easier to form. Not enough to be called brass
though. May be some other alloys too.

Many years since I was involved it that. We used different copper
tubing to form return bends for coils than we used for the tubes but I
did not buy the material so I don't know the specs.

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 17:50:15 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Try Brasso.

That wasn't the question. Sheesh.

On 3/26/16 7:25 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 17:50:15 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Try Brasso.

That wasn't the question. Sheesh.


Schools are increasingly emphasizing self-esteem building and
inclusiveness indoctrination over reading comprehension and critical
thinking skills...

--
There are no dangerous weapons. There are only dangerous men.
- Robert A. Heinlein

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 7:25:58 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 17:50:15 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Try Brasso.

That wasn't the question. Sheesh.

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 7:25:58 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 17:50:15 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Try Brasso.

That wasn't the question. Sheesh.

Well, in his defense, I did ask how to get the pipe to match the fittings. In fact, I even
said that getting them to match was more important than why there was a difference in color.

In article ,
says...

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 7:25:58 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 17:50:15 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

Try Brasso.

That wasn't the question. Sheesh.

Well, in his defense, I did ask how to get the pipe to match the fittings. In fact, I even
said that getting them to match was more important than why there was a difference in color.

Thank you. I did try and offer an answer to the "more important"
question.

--
RonNNN

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 16:54:30 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Well, in his defense, I did ask how to get the pipe to match the fittings. In fact, I even
said that getting them to match was more important than why there was a difference in color.

Rub a section with ketchup or other acidic tomatoes sauce, let sit and
clean after. Do they match? I have an old brass boat prop I may use
it on. Dry and spray with shellac. I guess climate change makes
things look different

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 19:48:31 -0400, Wade Garrett
wrote:

Schools are increasingly emphasizing self-esteem building and
inclusiveness indoctrination over reading comprehension and critical
thinking skills...

A 12 year old girl in Florida was just arrested for pinching a boy on
the butt. I quit government school at 16, went out into the real
world and made my bones.. Times have changed.

In article ,
says...

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 16:54:30 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Well, in his defense, I did ask how to get the pipe to match the fittings. In fact, I even
said that getting them to match was more important than why there was a difference in color.

Rub a section with ketchup or other acidic tomatoes sauce, let sit and
clean after. Do they match? I have an old brass boat prop I may use
it on. Dry and spray with shellac. I guess climate change makes
things look different

Your apology noted.

--
RonNNN

On 3/26/2016 8:13 PM, Oren wrote:
I guess climate change makes
things look different


It's Al Gore's fault?

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe.. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

I think the fittings are put into a tumbler with some sort of shot or stones to clean and polish them a lot like you'd polish gems. My guess is that it's done to make the fittings easier to solder by cleaning all the oxidation off of them. The cleaner the fittings are to start with, the quicker you can prep the inside surface with a wire brush. When I was running a lot of copper pipe, I used sand cloth to clean the ends before soldering. When I built some control systems where I used 1/4" copper tubing to run to the gauges and valves, I used a brass polish that put a protective coating on the copper pipe which resisted further oxidation. The soft copper pipe I've polished was more red in color than the fittings. My guess is that the soft copper pipe is a different alloy than the fittings but the hard copper pipe is closer to the color of the fittings when polished. If you want to make your project pretty, you can use some fine sandpaper to start with to get the printing and oxidation off the pipe followed by some brass polish. If you have a bench grinder, put a buffer wheel on it and go nuts on the pipe. If you're making something pretty, you can get a tube of paste solder which is flux with solder powder mixed in. Put a little on the inside surface of the fitting and smear a bit on the end of the pipe. You can gently heat the joint to solder it without discoloring the copper and getting solder all over your fitting. ^_^

Oh yea, WTF are you building? o_O

[8~{} Uncle Pipe Monster.

In article ,
says...
Oh yea, WTF are you building? o_O

My guess is a moonshine still.

--
RonNNN

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 21:42:01 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...
Oh yea, WTF are you building? o_O

My guess is a moonshine still.

not with soldered joints I hope

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper
pipe. As you can see from this image, the pipe is a different "color"
than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the pipe itself is
much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the
pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

How do they compare after an acid wash?

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:09:36 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 21:42:01 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...
Oh yea, WTF are you building? o_O

My guess is a moonshine still.

not with soldered joints I hope
Lead free silver solder.

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 20:16:35 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper
pipe. As you can see from this image, the pipe is a different "color"
than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the pipe itself is
much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the
pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

How do they compare after an acid wash?

Wrought copper fittings are c12200 alloy.12200 is 99.90% pure copper
with phosphorous added to deoxidize..
Seamless copper pipe may be manufactured from any of five (5) copper
alloys (C10200, C10300, C10800, C12000, C12200) that all conform to
the chemical composition requirements of alloys containing a minimum
of 99.9% Copper (Cu) and a maximum of 0.04% Phosphorous (P).

About the only difference chemically between the alloys is the amount
of phosphorous remaining in the alloy. The manufacturing process -
drawn vs wrought, will produce varying grain structures, and the
temper will also change the grain structure - which will cause
variation in the colour of the copper as produced. Some of the colour
variability can be reduced by removing the "mill finish" and oxides by
polishing, but different grain structures will reflect light
differently, producing different colour effects.. Soft drawn (flexible
/annealed) copper tubing will more closely match the colour of the
wrought copper fittings available today.

Years ago the majority of copper plumbing fittings more closely
matched the colour of Type K, L, and M hard copper, while today they
more closely match the soft copper, leading me to believe they have
changed the production method used for producing the fittings. I HAVE
noticed the newer fittings are lighter and appear to be softer than
the fittings I grew up with.

Newer fittings are "lighter", in color or in weight or both?

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:21:45 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:09:36 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 21:42:01 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...
Oh yea, WTF are you building? o_O

My guess is a moonshine still.

not with soldered joints I hope
Lead free silver solder.

Even lead free solder will give the whiskey a nasty wang. Stills are
usually solid copper with friction fittings.

I really like glass for this but the size is somewhat limited. I have
used 5 gallon water bottles back when they were glass but you have to
be real careful bringing up the heat slowly and more importantly,
letting them cool down slowly. You can pour the mash out OK but let
them sit on a dry block of wood or something until they are just warm
to the touch before you load the next batch. I had a copper end cap
that was just a nice friction fit in the hole, inverted and a hole in
that for a 1/2" soft copper coil. I leaked a little but it worked. You
can cascade another one behind that for a "thumper" if you really want
to get sophisticated.
The stuff coming out of the thumper will burn in your lighter.

On 3/27/2016 2:52 AM, wrote:

My guess is a moonshine still.

not with soldered joints I hope
Lead free silver solder.

Even lead free solder will give the whiskey a nasty wang. Stills are
usually solid copper with friction fittings.



Ever watch an episode of Moonshiners?

They sure do a of of soldering on the sheets of copper used to form the
still. Once it leaves the pot it is usually friction fit.

wrote in message
...
not with soldered joints I hope
Lead free silver solder.

Even lead free solder will give the whiskey a nasty wang. Stills are
usually solid copper with friction fittings.


There is drinking whiskey and selling whiskey. If selling, they do not care
about the lead that might come out of the solder.

About 30 years ago the wife and I was watching some show about moonshing and
they mentioned the lead solder. I told her that one day someone is going to
complain about the lead in the solder in the pipes in many of the houses in
the US. About 10 years later someone picked up on this.

Now with all the lead scare, many of the electronic devices are going to
last a few years and then quit because of the tin whiskers.

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

....might I suggest the look of this: http://tinyurl.com/h6g8chy

On 3/26/2016 3:44 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Well, that's easily explained. The old copper is duller than the new
stuff. I've done lotsa work with copper. You might even call me a
copper buff.
Any more questions?

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 12:37:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

...might I suggest the look of this: http://tinyurl.com/h6g8chy

You might suggest it, but we've already decided on (and purchased)
galvanized floor flanges, copper pipe and brass pot hooks.

It's the look SWMBO wants and it's the look SWMBO is going to get.

On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 02:52:08 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:21:45 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:09:36 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 21:42:01 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...
Oh yea, WTF are you building? o_O

My guess is a moonshine still.

not with soldered joints I hope
Lead free silver solder.

Even lead free solder will give the whiskey a nasty wang. Stills are
usually solid copper with friction fittings.
Silver solder is used in commercial stills - along with brazing..
Pretty hard to make a "kettle" without soldering or brazing - an
expert can roll and beed the joints and get them ALMOST hooch-tite -
but any leak will cause the still to blow - so the outside of even a
well rolled seam will be soldered.

I really like glass for this but the size is somewhat limited. I have
used 5 gallon water bottles back when they were glass but you have to
be real careful bringing up the heat slowly and more importantly,
letting them cool down slowly. You can pour the mash out OK but let
them sit on a dry block of wood or something until they are just warm
to the touch before you load the next batch. I had a copper end cap
that was just a nice friction fit in the hole, inverted and a hole in
that for a 1/2" soft copper coil. I leaked a little but it worked. You
can cascade another one behind that for a "thumper" if you really want
to get sophisticated.
The stuff coming out of the thumper will burn in your lighter.

On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 07:58:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:



So I ordered one of these which should allow for a nice flush hang.

http://www.hooksandlattice.com/hanging-clips.html

A 2' length is twice the cost of the OOK cleat, but it'll be worth the
extra cost. The weakest point, regarding weight, is the attachment
of the cleat to the frame in the routed out channel. That is the area
where I will have the least wood, therefore the shortest screws. My plan
is use some type of adhesive along with screws just to be safe.

Cousin Hanging Monster
Why not use a piece of hardwood lagged to the wall with a dovetail
cut across the back of the frame - screw the frame to the hardwood
cleat with screws behind the floor flanges. Cut the hardwood cleat
with an angle to fit the dovetail cut.. You can blind dove-tail so it
doesn't show at the end of the frame.. Every bit as strong as the
hardware solution - and you can truthfully say you made it all
yourself.

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 21:12:23 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Newer fittings are "lighter", in color or in weight or both?
my experience is both.

On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 11:38:40 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 12:37:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

...might I suggest the look of this: http://tinyurl.com/h6g8chy

You might suggest it, but we've already decided on (and purchased)
galvanized floor flanges, copper pipe and brass pot hooks.

It's the look SWMBO wants and it's the look SWMBO is going to get.
Don't let her see the brass flanges or you'll end up with a "change
order" and a trip to return the galvanized fittings.

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 1:38:49 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 12:37:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm going to be building something - not plumbing - with 3/4" copper pipe. As you can see from
this image, the pipe is a different "color" than the fittings. The fittings are bright copper, the
pipe itself is much duller.

Anybody know why that is or more importantly, how to shine up the pipe so that it matches
the fittings?

http://tinyurl.com/CopperPipeColor

Full link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxbg1l4fw.jpg

...might I suggest the look of this: http://tinyurl.com/h6g8chy

You might suggest it, but we've already decided on (and purchased)
galvanized floor flanges, copper pipe and brass pot hooks.

It's the look SWMBO wants and it's the look SWMBO is going to get.

Certainly, don't show her...or she may change her mind!

On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 16:01:09 -0400, wrote:

Even lead free solder will give the whiskey a nasty wang. Stills are
usually solid copper with friction fittings.

Silver solder is used in commercial stills - along with brazing..
Pretty hard to make a "kettle" without soldering or brazing - an
expert can roll and beed the joints and get them ALMOST hooch-tite -
but any leak will cause the still to blow - so the outside of even a
well rolled seam will be soldered.

Plenty of information, videos, still kits, and recipes for shine.
Legal to make but you can't sell it. This site now has a already made
stainless steel still (new addition)

http://www.clawhammersupply.com/)

Easier now days to buy at the local shop (Apple & Peach pie shine)

On 3/27/2016 4:01 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 02:52:08 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:21:45 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:09:36 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 21:42:01 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...
Oh yea, WTF are you building? o_O

My guess is a moonshine still.

not with soldered joints I hope
Lead free silver solder.

Even lead free solder will give the whiskey a nasty wang. Stills are
usually solid copper with friction fittings.
Silver solder is used in commercial stills - along with brazing..
Pretty hard to make a "kettle" without soldering or brazing - an
expert can roll and beed the joi[When I did HVAC, we had lead free solder for water copper, such as replacing water heaters.]nts and get them ALMOST hooch-tite -
but any leak will cause the still to blow - so the outside of even a
well rolled seam will be soldered.

I really like glass for this but the size is somewhat limited. I have
used 5 gallon water bottles back when they were glass but you have to
be real careful bringing up the heat slowly and more importantly,
letting them cool down slowly. You can pour the mash out OK but let
them sit on a dry block of wood or something until they are just warm
to the touch before you load the next batch. I had a copper end cap
that was just a nice friction fit in the hole, inverted and a hole in
that for a 1/2" soft copper coil. I leaked a little but it worked. You
can cascade another one behind that for a "thumper" if you really want
to get sophisticated.
The stuff coming out of the thumper will burn in your lighter.



Center posted, as your reply was.
-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 17:34:25 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Top posted.

Center posted, as your reply was.

Bottom posted.

You fudged your sig line again.

old copper is duller

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 5:34:21 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 3/27/2016 4:01 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 02:52:08 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:21:45 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 23:09:36 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 21:42:01 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...
Oh yea, WTF are you building? o_O

My guess is a moonshine still.

not with soldered joints I hope
Lead free silver solder.

Even lead free solder will give the whiskey a nasty wang. Stills are
usually solid copper with friction fittings.
Silver solder is used in commercial stills - along with brazing..
Pretty hard to make a "kettle" without soldering or brazing - an
expert can roll and beed the joi[When I did HVAC, we had lead free solder for water copper, such as replacing water heaters.]nts and get them ALMOST hooch-tite -
but any leak will cause the still to blow - so the outside of even a
well rolled seam will be soldered.

I really like glass for this but the size is somewhat limited. I have
used 5 gallon water bottles back when they were glass but you have to
be real careful bringing up the heat slowly and more importantly,
letting them cool down slowly. You can pour the mash out OK but let
them sit on a dry block of wood or something until they are just warm
to the touch before you load the next batch. I had a copper end cap
that was just a nice friction fit in the hole, inverted and a hole in
that for a 1/2" soft copper coil. I leaked a little but it worked. You
can cascade another one behind that for a "thumper" if you really want
to get sophisticated.
The stuff coming out of the thumper will burn in your lighter.



Center posted, as your reply was.

If you are going to join the modern world and center post a response like normal people,
at least learn how to do it neatly.

What a mess you made of your response!

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 7:55:54 PM UTC-4, David wrote:
old copper is duller

Do you know the age of my copper or are you just tossing out a random piece
of information!

On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 17:11:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 7:55:54 PM UTC-4, David wrote:
old copper is duller

Do you know the age of my copper or are you just tossing out a random piece
of information!

Derby, I'm glad you didn't cross post to the other groups --
alt.usenet.kooks,alt.support.depression

It is how the trolls attract other trolls here.

See how many red belly brit clowns are here now.

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 4:14:01 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 07:58:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:



So I ordered one of these which should allow for a nice flush hang.

http://www.hooksandlattice.com/hanging-clips.html

A 2' length is twice the cost of the OOK cleat, but it'll be worth the
extra cost. The weakest point, regarding weight, is the attachment
of the cleat to the frame in the routed out channel. That is the area
where I will have the least wood, therefore the shortest screws. My plan
is use some type of adhesive along with screws just to be safe.

Cousin Hanging Monster
Why not use a piece of hardwood lagged to the wall with a dovetail
cut across the back of the frame - screw the frame to the hardwood
cleat with screws behind the floor flanges. Cut the hardwood cleat
with an angle to fit the dovetail cut.. You can blind dove-tail so it
doesn't show at the end of the frame.. Every bit as strong as the
hardware solution - and you can truthfully say you made it all
yourself.

I considered that, but I didn't want to remove that much of the frame. The
frame is made from 5/4 pine and I figure the cleat would have to be a
least 3/4. I'm sure that would have left enough wood, but I decided to go
with a metal cleat.

Besides, it's not like I made the pipe either. ;-)

On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 18:14:38 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 4:14:01 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 07:58:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:



So I ordered one of these which should allow for a nice flush hang.

http://www.hooksandlattice.com/hanging-clips.html

A 2' length is twice the cost of the OOK cleat, but it'll be worth the
extra cost. The weakest point, regarding weight, is the attachment
of the cleat to the frame in the routed out channel. That is the area
where I will have the least wood, therefore the shortest screws. My plan
is use some type of adhesive along with screws just to be safe.

Cousin Hanging Monster
Why not use a piece of hardwood lagged to the wall with a dovetail
cut across the back of the frame - screw the frame to the hardwood
cleat with screws behind the floor flanges. Cut the hardwood cleat
with an angle to fit the dovetail cut.. You can blind dove-tail so it
doesn't show at the end of the frame.. Every bit as strong as the
hardware solution - and you can truthfully say you made it all
yourself.

I considered that, but I didn't want to remove that much of the frame. The
frame is made from 5/4 pine and I figure the cleat would have to be a
least 3/4. I'm sure that would have left enough wood, but I decided to go
with a metal cleat.

Besides, it's not like I made the pipe either. ;-)
1 half inch birch or maple cleat will hold around 100 lbs with no
problem. using a "fender washer" to spread the load of the rack/frame
the 5/4 pine will also be more than adequate - particularly with the
pipe flange carrying half of the load directly to the pine sitting ON
the cleat, and the flange holding the pine together so it can'r split
from the load.