I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Thanks,

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

On Thursday, March 17, 2016 at 10:23:48 AM UTC-4, HerHusband wrote:
I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Thanks,

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

If it's really that thin I'd try filler superglue from the hobby store. There is gray caulk for concrete if you think it's a little bit more open and you can use a plastic squeegee to force it in the crack and bit like grouting tile.

On 3/17/2016 7:20 AM, HerHusband wrote:
I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Is water getting *into* the crack or simply clinging to it as a "guide"
to flow into the garage?

I.e., are you sure the crack is the cause and not just a *symptom*
(of a low spot in the floor)?

As a first attempt, I'd try some silicone caulk applied with a trowel
(or float). This will tell you if the crack *is* the "low spot"
vs. just RESIDING in a low spot.

Once you know what the case is, you can peel the silicone off (or, scrub it
off with a wire brush) -- it won't last applied as thinly as your description
suggests it would be.

But, based on what this discloses, you might then be able to try an
epoxy intended for use with concrete/cement applied using the same sort of
technique. Make a serious effort to clean up the crack and surrounding
areas before trying to apply it.

On 17/03/2016 17:03, Don Y wrote:
On 3/17/2016 7:20 AM, HerHusband wrote:
I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way
into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it
turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure
they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Is water getting *into* the crack or simply clinging to it as a "guide"
to flow into the garage?

I.e., are you sure the crack is the cause and not just a *symptom*
(of a low spot in the floor)?

As a first attempt, I'd try some silicone caulk applied with a trowel
(or float). This will tell you if the crack *is* the "low spot"
vs. just RESIDING in a low spot.

Once you know what the case is, you can peel the silicone off (or, scrub it
off with a wire brush) -- it won't last applied as thinly as your
description
suggests it would be.

But, based on what this discloses, you might then be able to try an
epoxy intended for use with concrete/cement applied using the same sort of
technique. Make a serious effort to clean up the crack and surrounding
areas before trying to apply it.

I would chisel along the crack and make a V shaped channel, then wet it
and sand and cement it.

--
Bod

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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On Thu, 17 Mar 2016 14:20:36 -0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote in


I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Thanks,

See if you can rent one of these.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-He...980K/203070422

Use it to clean out and widen the crack. Then fill the crack with
grout.

On 3/17/2016 10:12 AM, Bod wrote:
On 17/03/2016 17:03, Don Y wrote:
On 3/17/2016 7:20 AM, HerHusband wrote:
I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way
into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it
turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure
they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Is water getting *into* the crack or simply clinging to it as a "guide"
to flow into the garage?

I.e., are you sure the crack is the cause and not just a *symptom*
(of a low spot in the floor)?

As a first attempt, I'd try some silicone caulk applied with a trowel
(or float). This will tell you if the crack *is* the "low spot"
vs. just RESIDING in a low spot.

Once you know what the case is, you can peel the silicone off (or, scrub it
off with a wire brush) -- it won't last applied as thinly as your
description
suggests it would be.

But, based on what this discloses, you might then be able to try an
epoxy intended for use with concrete/cement applied using the same sort of
technique. Make a serious effort to clean up the crack and surrounding
areas before trying to apply it.

I would chisel along the crack and make a V shaped channel, then wet it and
sand and cement it.

It's a "very thin hairline crack", "barely visible" and "so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers". No need to make a *bigger* problem out of it!

The crack may not *be* the problem but, rather, just a convenient place
for water to adhere as it migrates inward. It could be a low spot
in the slab (there is *some* reason for the crack being there!).

Instead of weakening that area (chiseling it out) and then trying to
back fill, just try something that "flows well" (or, can be FORCED to
"flow well") that also ADHERES well (cuz you won't have much
"material" being added to that area if it is really as insignificant
as Anthony's description suggests.

(A really loose slurry of mortar and water would "flake off" after
drying)

On Thu, 17 Mar 2016 14:20:36 -0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Thanks,

Anthony Watson

You might try a motor mix but you would have to rub it in by hand. You
could tape down to minimize it to a confined space.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_354681-286-124115_0__

I do minor hairline cracks this way on stucco, using a pre-mix stucco.
Just rub it in to force it in the crack.

Is water getting *into* the crack or simply clinging to it as a "guide"
to flow into the garage?
I.e., are you sure the crack is the cause and not just a *symptom*
(of a low spot in the floor)?

The crack extends from the edge of the slab on the outside of the door,
to a point about two feet inside the garage. I haven't checked it with a
straight edge, but there don't appear to be any low spots in the floor.

The slab is 6" thick, with an additional 8" thick reinforced footing
under that front edge. Significant settling seems unlikely.

This is the only crack I have in the floor after 15 years, despite it
being 24'x28' with no control joints anywhere. I think the fibermesh
reinforcement helps with that.

It's most likely just shrinkage cracking, but I don't want water getting
in and freezing to make things worse.

you might then be able to try an epoxy intended for use with
concrete/cement applied using the same sort of technique.

Hmm... Epoxy might be a good option. It's about the only thing thin
enough to flow down into the crack.


I would chisel along the crack and make a V shaped channel, then wet
it and sand and cement it.
No need to make a *bigger* problem out of it!

Agreed. I'm not about to cut a big groove in the floor to fix a crack
that is barely visible right now. That might be an option if the crack
opens up in the future, but I wouldn't even consider it right now.

If it wasn't for the wet line when it rains, I wouldn't even know the
crack was there.

(A really loose slurry of mortar and water would "flake off" after
drying)

I think even the grains in the mortar would be too big to fit in the
crack. I need something that is essentially thin like water.

Thanks for the feedback,

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

On Thu, 17 Mar 2016 14:20:36 -0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Thanks,

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com
Waterglass.

On 3/17/2016 1:34 PM, HerHusband wrote:
Is water getting *into* the crack or simply clinging to it as a "guide"
to flow into the garage?
I.e., are you sure the crack is the cause and not just a *symptom*
(of a low spot in the floor)?

The crack extends from the edge of the slab on the outside of the door,
to a point about two feet inside the garage. I haven't checked it with a
straight edge, but there don't appear to be any low spots in the floor.

That's why I thought using silicone caulk (or, anything else that
"is easily SPREADABLE") to get an idea as to what the surface
*really* is like. E.g., if you put a small bead of caulk *on*
the crack and try to spread it with a trowel/float and it
refuses to spread (because there are no "low spots" for it to
flow INTO), then you know the crack is just acting as a wicking
agent -- a place to LEAD water in but not really FLOW water in.

The slab is 6" thick, with an additional 8" thick reinforced footing
under that front edge. Significant settling seems unlikely.

This is the only crack I have in the floor after 15 years, despite it
being 24'x28' with no control joints anywhere. I think the fibermesh
reinforcement helps with that.

Hmmm... that is worth knowing! We're going to replace the concrete
driveway and have debated "pavers" vs. a reinforced solution. The
pavers are far more work (and probably not visually appropriate)
so a reinforced solution would be a big win.

It's most likely just shrinkage cracking, but I don't want water getting
in and freezing to make things worse.

Yup. At the very least, it gives you a yardstick against which to
gauge any *future* "movement".

you might then be able to try an epoxy intended for use with
concrete/cement applied using the same sort of technique.

Hmm... Epoxy might be a good option. It's about the only thing thin
enough to flow down into the crack.

Your description suggests you wouldn't be able to apply anything
"thick" (viscous *or* dimensionally). So, you want something
that clings well. Mortar mix would probably flake off at the
first signs of mechanical stress (e.g., sweeping the floor
with a broom! : )

I would chisel along the crack and make a V shaped channel, then wet
it and sand and cement it.
No need to make a *bigger* problem out of it!

Agreed. I'm not about to cut a big groove in the floor to fix a crack
that is barely visible right now. That might be an option if the crack
opens up in the future, but I wouldn't even consider it right now.

You can also look around to see how your garage floor is loaded.
E.g., I have a lot of stuff stored in shelving units along the
walls. Not the way a garage FLOOR was designed to be used!

If it wasn't for the wet line when it rains, I wouldn't even know the
crack was there.

(A really loose slurry of mortar and water would "flake off" after
drying)

I think even the grains in the mortar would be too big to fit in the
crack. I need something that is essentially thin like water.

On Thu, 17 Mar 2016 11:21:39 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 17 Mar 2016 14:20:36 -0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Thanks,

Anthony Watson

You might try a motor mix but you would have to rub it in by hand. You
could tape down to minimize it to a confined space.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_354681-286-124115_0__

I do minor hairline cracks this way on stucco, using a pre-mix stucco.
Just rub it in to force it in the crack.
Just get some sodium silicate - aka "waterglass". It is sold as a
concrete sealer, among other things - and will seep into the crack and
seal it up. (or you can make it from drain cleaner and silica-gel
dessicant packs if you want to get adventuresome)

On Thu, 17 Mar 2016 14:20:36 -0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Thanks,

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

How much of he crack is outside the door?
You might just drill a hole in it, right inside the door, using a
concrete bit. Then fill that hole with some sort of epoxy or JB Weld.
That will stop th flow of water to the inside!

Don,

The crack extends from the edge of the slab on the outside of the
door, to a point about two feet inside the garage.

Correction. I took a look today and it looks like the crack may extend 3-4
feet into the garage. Really hard to tell, the crack is so fine that it
kind of just fizzles out at some point. It's only because the crack is a
different color when it's wet that I can even see it.

The crack IS more visible on the 6-8" outside, where it's exposed to rain,
but still not really something I can feel with my fingers. Water finds the
smallest cracks though...

That's why I thought using silicone caulk

I'm hesitant to use anything that would cause issues with a later repair.
Once silicone is in there, nothing will stick to it.

Hmmm... that is worth knowing! We're going to replace the concrete
driveway and have debated "pavers" vs. a reinforced solution. The
pavers are far more work (and probably not visually appropriate)
so a reinforced solution would be a big win.

We've laid quite a few pavers around our place. They cost more than a
concrete slab but have a nicer look. Unfortunately, they are also more
likely to settle, especially if water is dripping on them, or you have
"critters" that dig tunnels under them. I just replaced a paver patio this
last summer with new concrete slabs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdtA27vsytM
http://www.watsondiy.com/20150912-patio.htm

Still, as long as you prepare a good base for the pavers they look and
perform well. The upside is they are easy to take up and repair/replace if
you do have problems. Concrete slabs are a lot more work to replace.

Your description suggests you wouldn't be able to apply anything
"thick" (viscous *or* dimensionally). So, you want something
that clings well. Mortar mix would probably flake off at the
first signs of mechanical stress (e.g., sweeping the floor
with a broom! : )

I doubt mortar mix would do anything except sit on top. Even epoxy would
need to be really thin to seep down into the crack.

You can also look around to see how your garage floor is loaded.
E.g., I have a lot of stuff stored in shelving units along the
walls. Not the way a garage FLOOR was designed to be used!

I have almost no loading on the garage floor. To make it easy to clean the
floor all of my cabinets are wall mounted and my tools are all on wheels I
can move around. The only time we have a car in the garage is when we are
working on them.

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

How much of he crack is outside the door?

Maybe 5-6" outside the door, and another 2" or so directly under the garage
door itself. Then it extends 3 feet or so inside the garage.

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

Hi Anthony,

On 3/17/2016 10:10 PM, HerHusband wrote:
The crack extends from the edge of the slab on the outside of the
door, to a point about two feet inside the garage.

Correction. I took a look today and it looks like the crack may extend 3-4
feet into the garage. Really hard to tell, the crack is so fine that it
kind of just fizzles out at some point. It's only because the crack is a
different color when it's wet that I can even see it.

The crack IS more visible on the 6-8" outside, where it's exposed to rain,
but still not really something I can feel with my fingers. Water finds the
smallest cracks though...

Winter will be the toughest time (water freezing and expanding INSIDE
the crack)

That's why I thought using silicone caulk

I'm hesitant to use anything that would cause issues with a later repair.
Once silicone is in there, nothing will stick to it.

Good point. I had hoped that you could "peel" it off in a sheet.
I recently used some to seal the gap between the patio and house
slabs, changed my mind in one area and just peeled out this
long, rubbery piece.

Of course, in my case, there was enough material that it had some
strength of its own. If you end up with a thin sheet, you may find
it just flakes/shreds instead of lifting, intact.

I don't know what else you could use for a "trial"...

Hmmm... that is worth knowing! We're going to replace the concrete
driveway and have debated "pavers" vs. a reinforced solution. The
pavers are far more work (and probably not visually appropriate)
so a reinforced solution would be a big win.

We've laid quite a few pavers around our place. They cost more than a
concrete slab but have a nicer look. Unfortunately, they are also more
likely to settle, especially if water is dripping on them, or you have

No water dripping -- other than rain (though our rains can be very intense!)

I'm more worried about the movement induced by the cars traveling over it.
SWMBO has a tendency to like to turn the wheel while the car is stationary
(neatly scuffing the concrete with a few hundred miles of tire wear...)

"critters" that dig tunnels under them. I just replaced a paver patio this
last summer with new concrete slabs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdtA27vsytM

Wow, why didn't you rent an electric breaker to chip out the cement?
(you've got more patience than I; we had about half a yard by the
front porch that I needed to take up...)

Clever idea to arrange the screed to ride atop the pavers and arrange
for the form to be similar height! Did I miss how you set the forms
to ensure a suitable grade?

And, does the downspout drain to a dry well? I didn't see that go in...

I'm guessing the white PVC is part of irrigation?

Here, we wouldn't set the (wooden) stairs against the house out of fear
it would hide termite activity (tubes up the foundation *behind* the
stairs)

Excellent job! Likewise in the "documentation"! (If I *remember*,
I take before and after photos; usually I'm more interested in getting
it *done* than I am documenting the process)

http://www.watsondiy.com/20150912-patio.htm

"No video with supported format and MIME type found"

(I'm guessing this was a FLASH presentation?)

Is the house built over a crawlspace? Why is the "ground floor" so
elevated wrt grade?

(Obviously, the siding on the garage is elevated to coincide with
that of the house?)

Still, as long as you prepare a good base for the pavers they look and
perform well. The upside is they are easy to take up and repair/replace if
you do have problems. Concrete slabs are a lot more work to replace.

We, of course, don't EXPECT to have to pull them up, later.
But, driveway slab is cracked which gives us an excuse to replace.
At the same time, I can run some wires and pipes under the driveway
(not essential but makes some things more convenient).

I'd also like to run a separate water meter to get the irrigation
consumption OFF our sewer bill. But, AFAICT, that has to happen *at*
the municipal water supply; not "after the meter".

Your description suggests you wouldn't be able to apply anything
"thick" (viscous *or* dimensionally). So, you want something
that clings well. Mortar mix would probably flake off at the
first signs of mechanical stress (e.g., sweeping the floor
with a broom! : )

I doubt mortar mix would do anything except sit on top. Even epoxy would
need to be really thin to seep down into the crack.

If it's THAT fine, you may have a problem getting an epoxy that will
adhere to the mortar *and* flow well.

You can also look around to see how your garage floor is loaded.
E.g., I have a lot of stuff stored in shelving units along the
walls. Not the way a garage FLOOR was designed to be used!

I have almost no loading on the garage floor. To make it easy to clean the
floor all of my cabinets are wall mounted and my tools are all on wheels I
can move around. The only time we have a car in the garage is when we are
working on them.

We have no storage, here (no attic, no basement -- plus, house has a very
"open" floorplan). So, the garage handles most of our storage needs.
I've got floor to ceiling, adjustable industrial shelving lining both
side walls. One third of one wall is essentially just electrical cables
(SCSI/USB/printer/power cords/extension cords/patch cords/video cables/etc.).
Another third is my "tool box" (hand tools). Last third (of that wall)
are electrical/electronic components.

Back wall is all electronic components (~1000 of those little tiny plastic
parts drawers) plus freezer chest.

Other wall has regular garage stuff, nasty chemicals, etc.

Cars like to be in the garage as the paint doesn't last (even clearcoat)
with our relentless sun.

A basement would be a dream come true! "Using" the garage for anything
means being *done* before sunset... :

HerHusband wrote:
I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Thanks,

I'm inclined to use PL Premium polyurethane. If you warm it up good, and
squeege it in. Might be messy though.

Greg

Don Y Wrote in message:
On 3/17/2016 10:12 AM, Bod wrote:
On 17/03/2016 17:03, Don Y wrote:
On 3/17/2016 7:20 AM, HerHusband wrote:
I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way
into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it
turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure
they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Is water getting *into* the crack or simply clinging to it as a "guide"
to flow into the garage?

I.e., are you sure the crack is the cause and not just a *symptom*
(of a low spot in the floor)?

As a first attempt, I'd try some silicone caulk applied with a trowel
(or float). This will tell you if the crack *is* the "low spot"
vs. just RESIDING in a low spot.

Once you know what the case is, you can peel the silicone off (or, scrub it
off with a wire brush) -- it won't last applied as thinly as your
description
suggests it would be.

But, based on what this discloses, you might then be able to try an
epoxy intended for use with concrete/cement applied using the same sort of
technique. Make a serious effort to clean up the crack and surrounding
areas before trying to apply it.

I would chisel along the crack and make a V shaped channel, then wet it and
sand and cement it.

It's a "very thin hairline crack", "barely visible" and "so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers". No need to make a *bigger* problem out of it!

The crack may not *be* the problem but, rather, just a convenient place
for water to adhere as it migrates inward. It could be a low spot
in the slab (there is *some* reason for the crack being there!).

Instead of weakening that area (chiseling it out) and then trying to
back fill, just try something that "flows well" (or, can be FORCED to
"flow well") that also ADHERES well (cuz you won't have much
"material" being added to that area if it is really as insignificant
as Anthony's description suggests.

(A really loose slurry of mortar and water would "flake off" after
drying)





You could try a layer of latex based self-levelling compound
mixed comparatively thinly.
--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Don,

Winter will be the toughest time (water freezing and expanding INSIDE
the crack)

We usually don't get many days below freezing here, but I want to stop it
before it becomes an issue. As well as just keeping moisture out of the
garage.

Good point. I had hoped that you could "peel" it off in a sheet.
I recently used some to seal the gap between the patio and house
slabs, changed my mind in one area and just peeled out this
long, rubbery piece.

I picked up a tube of Sika crack sealant this morning at Lowes. Gonna try
that on a different crack outside and see what it does. If it works OK, I
might try it on the garage crack.

No water dripping -- other than rain (though our rains can be very
intense!)

Even though I have gutters on our garage, there is still a bit of a drip
line underneath them. After several years of dripping, too much sand
under the pavers, and the wrong kind of sand between the pavers, they
eventually started settling unevenly.

I now limit my sand layer to about a half inch and use polymeric sand to
lock the pavers together and prevent weeds/moss from growing in the
cracks.

I'm more worried about the movement induced by the cars traveling over
it. SWMBO has a tendency to like to turn the wheel while the car is
stationary (neatly scuffing the concrete with a few hundred miles of
tire wear...)

Same here. My wife makes a sharp turn when she pulls in the driveway to
back her car in to be ready to go the next day. Over time she has worn a
bit of a circular arc in the driveway. I would be worried that constant
action would shift the pavers over time. For now, we're just sticking
with gravel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdtA27vsytM
Wow, why didn't you rent an electric breaker to chip out the cement?

Limited money and I already had the rotary hammer. It wasn't too bad to
drill some holes and use feathers/wedges to pop off big chunks. The worst
part was the three rows of rebar I originally placed in the concrete. It
did it's job and really made it difficult to break up the concrete.

Clever idea to arrange the screed to ride atop the pavers and arrange
for the form to be similar height! Did I miss how you set the forms
to ensure a suitable grade?

I ran a couple of string lines to set the individual forms to the right
heights. That back walkway slopes in two directions, sort of gentle twist
along it's length. It slopes from one end to the other, and also slopes
toward the yard away from the garage. It had to meet an existing walk in
the back corner of the garage, the new slab between the buildings, and
the existing sidewalk along the back of the house. It turned out nice.

When I adjust the height of my screed, I include an extra 1/4 inch or so
in the sand layer. After I set the pavers and tamp them down, they settle
into the exact height I'm wanting. Then I sweep in polymeric sand to lock
them together.

does the downspout drain to a dry well? I didn't see that go in.

We installed the gutter drains several years ago. Since our property
slopes, I simply routed the drains so they drain farther down the slope,
away from the house. Works great, no erosion, and gets the water away
from the buildings.

I'm guessing the white PVC is part of irrigation?

Yep, it's a bit of an experimental sprinkler system for our long and
narrow back yard. It's just a length of pipe with three popup sprinkler
heads that I can connect to a garden hose. That is always a difficult
area to water, so I figured I would try it while I had the yard torn up.

It seems to work nice, but I did have to replace the sprinkler nozzles
with low-flow nozzles to avoid overdrawing our well pump.

Nothing fancy, just a convenience.

Here, we wouldn't set the (wooden) stairs against the house out of
fear it would hide termite activity (tubes up the foundation *behind*
the stairs)

We don't really have termites here, but there is a two inch gap between
the stairs and the house. That makes it easy to clean debris as well as
see if anything is going on behind.

It doesn't really show up on the video, but the bottom of the stairs are
also elevated about a half inch so water can drain away underneath.

Excellent job! Likewise in the "documentation"! (If I *remember*,
I take before and after photos; usually I'm more interested in getting
it *done* than I am documenting the process)

We've always taken lots of photos of our projects, both for the memories
and for reference in the future. For example, we photographed all of our
house walls before we insulated and sheetrocked so we could easily see
where the pipes and wires were located. You never know when you want to
cut a hole for an outlet or add something inside the wall.

Video is actually easier in some respects since you can just start the
camera and go to work. Of course, it means a lot of editing later.

http://www.watsondiy.com/20150912-patio.htm
"No video with supported format and MIME type found"
(I'm guessing this was a FLASH presentation?)

Nope, just standard HTML5 video. What browser are you using? It plays
fine with IE, Firefox, and Chrome on my desktop computer, as well as on
my tablets and smart phones.

Is the house built over a crawlspace? Why is the "ground floor" so
elevated wrt grade?

Yes, 24" high perimeter wall on an 8-10" thick footing. That gives me a
good 30-36" space to crawl around under the house, and keeps the exterior
wood well away from the ground to avoid rot and splashback.

(Obviously, the siding on the garage is elevated to coincide with
that of the house?)

Actually, the garage came first.

http://www.watsondiy.com/2001garage.htm

Standard eight foot walls on the two foot foundation gives me almost 10
feet of ceiling height in the garage.

We did set the house foundation to the same level as the garage
foundation when we built the house.

http://www.watsondiy.com/2003house.htm

We, of course, don't EXPECT to have to pull them up, later.

You never know...

I poured a small pad outside the garage door when we built it. I tore
that out a few years later to pour the walk between the garage and the
house. Then we tore that out last summer to install the new patios.

But, driveway slab is cracked which gives us an excuse to replace.
At the same time, I can run some wires and pipes under the driveway
(not essential but makes some things more convenient).

It's always good to take care of those things before you cover it all up
again.

We have no storage, here (no attic, no basement -- plus, house has a
very "open" floorplan). So, the garage handles most of our storage
needs.

Same here, except we did build a nice storage attic above the garage.
That's where we keep all the oddball items like suitcases, holiday
decorations, snow tires, etc.

Back wall is all electronic components (~1000 of those little tiny
plastic parts drawers) plus freezer chest.

Ironically, I threw out the last of my resistors, capacitors, integrated
circuits, etc. last week. I've slowly dwindled them down over the years,
but finally decided I was never going to use them again.

Cars like to be in the garage as the paint doesn't last (even
clearcoat) with our relentless sun.

We have way too many trees for sun to be a problem.

Besides, my wife's car spends most of it's life at work where the garage
wouldn't help anyway.

A basement would be a dream come true!

We considered a basement, but they're kind of rare around here with all
the rain we get. Not to mention our property is extremely rocky and would
have made a basement very expensive to build.

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 09:38:49 +0000 (GMT+00:00), Aardvark
wrote:

Don Y Wrote in message:
On 3/17/2016 10:12 AM, Bod wrote:
On 17/03/2016 17:03, Don Y wrote:
On 3/17/2016 7:20 AM, HerHusband wrote:
I have a very thin hairline crack in my conrete slab, right in the middle
of the garage doorway. It is barely visible and is so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers. Unfortunately, water still finds it's way
into the
crack on the outside of the garage door and seeps along the crack to the
inside of the garage. So, I would like to seal up the crack before it
turns
into a bigger issue.

Any recommendations?

Most crack sealers seem to be made for larger cracks, so I'm not sure
they
would even get down into my hairline crack.

Is water getting *into* the crack or simply clinging to it as a "guide"
to flow into the garage?

I.e., are you sure the crack is the cause and not just a *symptom*
(of a low spot in the floor)?

As a first attempt, I'd try some silicone caulk applied with a trowel
(or float). This will tell you if the crack *is* the "low spot"
vs. just RESIDING in a low spot.

Once you know what the case is, you can peel the silicone off (or, scrub it
off with a wire brush) -- it won't last applied as thinly as your
description
suggests it would be.

But, based on what this discloses, you might then be able to try an
epoxy intended for use with concrete/cement applied using the same sort of
technique. Make a serious effort to clean up the crack and surrounding
areas before trying to apply it.

I would chisel along the crack and make a V shaped channel, then wet it and
sand and cement it.

It's a "very thin hairline crack", "barely visible" and "so thin I can't even
feel it with my fingers". No need to make a *bigger* problem out of it!

The crack may not *be* the problem but, rather, just a convenient place
for water to adhere as it migrates inward. It could be a low spot
in the slab (there is *some* reason for the crack being there!).

Instead of weakening that area (chiseling it out) and then trying to
back fill, just try something that "flows well" (or, can be FORCED to
"flow well") that also ADHERES well (cuz you won't have much
"material" being added to that area if it is really as insignificant
as Anthony's description suggests.

(A really loose slurry of mortar and water would "flake off" after
drying)





You could try a layer of latex based self-levelling compound
mixed comparatively thinly.
NONE of the recomendations so far will work, or are even required.

Sodium Silicate is your answer. AKA Waterglass.. AKA concrete sealer.
Absolutely no caulk, PL premium, mortar mix, or even epoxy stands a
chance of creaping into that crack, particularly if it is not 100%
dry.. Only something water-thin and not hydrophobic stands a chance of
getting in and doing any good at all. A sodium silicate/water solution
WILL ge into the crack, and it will seal it - it will soak into the
surface of the concrete and seal that too. It gets right into the
"pores" of the concrete - basically becoming "part of" the concrete.

Hi Anthony,

check your mail (support).

On 3/18/2016 11:50 AM, HerHusband wrote:
Don,

replying to gregz, caitlyn ford wrote:
I think you should just consult a professional about the problem so you could
save time and resources while solving it.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ab-879902-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, Mobile and Social Media Interface to
alt.home.repair and other home improvement groups

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 00:44:01 +0000, caitlyn ford
wrote:

I think you should just consult a professional about the problem so you could
save time and resources while solving it.

Really? A professional that can't see a major problem with a barely
detectible hairline crack? Where do you come from?

"Thinking" doesn't seen to be your best attribute.

On 3/22/2016 9:15 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 00:44:01 +0000, caitlyn ford
wrote:

I think you should just consult a professional about the problem so you could
save time and resources while solving it.

Really? A professional that can't see a major problem with a barely
detectible hairline crack? Where do you come from?

"Thinking" doesn't seen to be your best attribute.


Another brilliant contribution from Moaner's Hub.

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..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
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