Our GE JEM25DM3BB 1.0 cubic foot microwave oven crapped out recently
and we couldn't find a suitable substitute. The oven functions would
work, but it wouldn't heat. The problem is the microwave fits inside
an enclosure of our kitchen cabinetry. When we moved into the house
eight years ago there was another microwave there which died a couple
years later. We had trouble finding a replacement then, but the GE
barely fit in there. Now that GE model is discontinued and the only
ones with dimensions small enough to fit are 0.7 cubic foot or less.
The wife was not pleased with the choices.

My first option was to cut out the enclosure a bit more to get a normal
sized microwave in there, but a woodworking friend pointed out it would
look funny because the hole would extend all the way up to the bottom
of the cabinet door above it. The wife was not pleased with that
choice either.

My next option was to repair the one we have. After researching
microwave ovens, the troubleshooting guides pointed to the overvoltage
diode and the magnetron as the likely suspects for the symptoms of this
oven. I disassembled the oven and took out the items. The diode was
open in both directions so I immediately suspected it. I checked the
magnetron for continuity and the leads had 0.000 ohms resistance
between them. Hmm, that looks bad too. The high voltage capacitor
seemed to be charging and discharging when I put the multimeter leads
on it. I ordered the parts with next day delivery and the total was
more than $200. Ugh...

When the new parts arrived I immediately ohms checked them and found
the very same results as the ones I took out -- the diode was open in
both directions and the magnetron was shorted. This time I was not
pleased!

Facing no other options I went ahead and installed the diode first and
heated up a cup of water for a minute. Still cold. Next I installed
the magnetron and held my breath while I heated up the cup of water.
After half a minute I noticed steam inside! When I took out the cup
after a minute it was hot. I showed the cup to my wife and this time
she was pleased. The microwave oven is back in the kitchen cabinet and
working fine. Warming up leftovers in a pan or heating up the leftover
morning coffee were good incentives to get this resolved.

I'm still baffled as to why the diode has no continuity. Is it because
my 9-volt multimeter doesn't have enough current to get through the
junction? I don't understand the magnetron properties so perhaps ohms
checking it was a useless test.

On 02/16/2016 12:28 PM, badgolferman wrote:


Facing no other options I went ahead and installed the diode first and
heated up a cup of water for a minute. Still cold. Next I installed
the magnetron and held my breath while I heated up the cup of water.
After half a minute I noticed steam inside! When I took out the cup
after a minute it was hot. I showed the cup to my wife and this time
she was pleased. The microwave oven is back in the kitchen cabinet and
working fine. Warming up leftovers in a pan or heating up the leftover
morning coffee were good incentives to get this resolved.

I'm still baffled as to why the diode has no continuity. Is it because
my 9-volt multimeter doesn't have enough current to get through the
junction? I don't understand the magnetron properties so perhaps ohms
checking it was a useless test.




Glad you got it fixed.


Though I'm good with electronics I don't profess to be a microwave
expert, but since that's an over voltage diode it would have to have
some kind of series resistance which evidently was off scale for your
meter (Could be as high as 200k in the forward direction)


As to the filament on the magnetron, I'd expect it to be under one ohm

On 2/16/2016 11:28 AM, badgolferman wrote:
Our GE JEM25DM3BB 1.0 cubic foot microwave oven crapped out recently
and we couldn't find a suitable substitute. The oven functions would
work, but it wouldn't heat. The problem is the microwave fits inside
an enclosure of our kitchen cabinetry. When we moved into the house
eight years ago there was another microwave there which died a couple
years later. We had trouble finding a replacement then, but the GE
barely fit in there. Now that GE model is discontinued and the only
ones with dimensions small enough to fit are 0.7 cubic foot or less.
The wife was not pleased with the choices.

My first option was to cut out the enclosure a bit more to get a normal
sized microwave in there, but a woodworking friend pointed out it would
look funny because the hole would extend all the way up to the bottom
of the cabinet door above it. The wife was not pleased with that
choice either.

Bottom line: built ins/ons eat your lunch, sooner or later!
We removed the (suspended) over-the-oven microwave when we
removed the upper cabinets (oven is in peninsula so these
things just boxed the kitchen in). For a while, we kept
it on a counter -- wasting precious counter space!

We have since opted to move it to a small cupboard which gets
it off the "counter circuit" and onto its own dedicated
circuit. Also means we can replace it at will!

My next option was to repair the one we have. After researching
microwave ovens, the troubleshooting guides pointed to the overvoltage
diode and the magnetron as the likely suspects for the symptoms of this
oven. I disassembled the oven and took out the items. The diode was
open in both directions so I immediately suspected it. I checked the
magnetron for continuity and the leads had 0.000 ohms resistance
between them. Hmm, that looks bad too. The high voltage capacitor
seemed to be charging and discharging when I put the multimeter leads
on it. I ordered the parts with next day delivery and the total was
more than $200. Ugh...

Be thankful they'd even *sell* you spares! :

When the new parts arrived I immediately ohms checked them and found
the very same results as the ones I took out -- the diode was open in
both directions and the magnetron was shorted. This time I was not
pleased!

The diode will look like a reasonably HIGH impedance. It's operating
at a few KV -- not the 9V your DMM is probably using.

The maggie will look almost like a dead short. Is your DMM truly accurate
to 3 digits? I.e., is that 0.000 really 0.000 or more like 1.0?

You should also check each of the maggie's leads to case to verify
there isn't a short, there.

Facing no other options I went ahead and installed the diode first and
heated up a cup of water for a minute. Still cold. Next I installed
the magnetron and held my breath while I heated up the cup of water.
After half a minute I noticed steam inside! When I took out the cup
after a minute it was hot. I showed the cup to my wife and this time
she was pleased. The microwave oven is back in the kitchen cabinet and
working fine. Warming up leftovers in a pan or heating up the leftover
morning coffee were good incentives to get this resolved.

I'm still baffled as to why the diode has no continuity. Is it because
my 9-volt multimeter doesn't have enough current to get through the
junction? I don't understand the magnetron properties so perhaps ohms
checking it was a useless test.

You could have monitored load current to the maggie (limiting it
through a resistive load so you can just watch the drop across
that "ballast").

On 2/16/2016 1:28 PM, badgolferman wrote:
Our GE JEM25DM3BB 1.0 cubic foot microwave oven crapped out recently
and we couldn't find a suitable substitute. The oven functions would
work, but it wouldn't heat. The problem is the microwave fits inside
an enclosure of our kitchen cabinetry. When we moved into the house
eight years ago there was another microwave there which died a couple
years later. We had trouble finding a replacement then, but the GE
barely fit in there. Now that GE model is discontinued and the only
ones with dimensions small enough to fit are 0.7 cubic foot or less.
The wife was not pleased with the choices.

My first option was to cut out the enclosure a bit more to get a normal
sized microwave in there, but a woodworking friend pointed out it would
look funny because the hole would extend all the way up to the bottom
of the cabinet door above it. The wife was not pleased with that
choice either.

My next option was to repair the one we have. After researching
microwave ovens, the troubleshooting guides pointed to the overvoltage
diode and the magnetron as the likely suspects for the symptoms of this
oven. I disassembled the oven and took out the items. The diode was
open in both directions so I immediately suspected it. I checked the
magnetron for continuity and the leads had 0.000 ohms resistance
between them. Hmm, that looks bad too. The high voltage capacitor
seemed to be charging and discharging when I put the multimeter leads
on it. I ordered the parts with next day delivery and the total was
more than $200. Ugh...

When the new parts arrived I immediately ohms checked them and found
the very same results as the ones I took out -- the diode was open in
both directions and the magnetron was shorted. This time I was not
pleased!

Facing no other options I went ahead and installed the diode first and
heated up a cup of water for a minute. Still cold. Next I installed
the magnetron and held my breath while I heated up the cup of water.
After half a minute I noticed steam inside! When I took out the cup
after a minute it was hot. I showed the cup to my wife and this time
she was pleased. The microwave oven is back in the kitchen cabinet and
working fine. Warming up leftovers in a pan or heating up the leftover
morning coffee were good incentives to get this resolved.

I'm still baffled as to why the diode has no continuity. Is it because
my 9-volt multimeter doesn't have enough current to get through the
junction? I don't understand the magnetron properties so perhaps ohms
checking it was a useless test.


For whatever reason, I've also gotten the open
circuit reading on microwave diodes. The line
at the bottom, you got your machine going. And
made your wife happy. Way to go, man!

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

step one..

I know what I am doing and I would not poke around inside a microwave that was powered up. You should not either. No joke, the voltage in thee are leathal.


step two
there are DIY sites on the net that tell you how to test an HV diode with the power off.

Yes a high voltage diode will test open with a standard vom.

yes the two filament leads will look like a short.
but they should not be shorted to the case.

read a few diy sites and keep the power off.

M

"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
I'm still baffled as to why the diode has no continuity. Is it because
my 9-volt multimeter doesn't have enough current to get through the
junction? I don't understand the magnetron properties so perhaps ohms
checking it was a useless test.

The diode is usually made of several diode junctions in one case. Therefore
it takes several volts to make it show up on most multimeters. The 9 volts
of your meter may be enough voltage to break down the junctions and show
something, however most do not apply the total 9 volts to the circuit. Most
less than one volt as not to make diodes show up as a low resistance in one
direction and very high in the other. Some meters will have a diode
function that applies several volts to the leads to test many of the diodes
of up to 1000 volts or so. This is still not usually enough for the
mcrowave diodes.

On 2/16/2016 3:05 PM, wrote:
step one..

I know what I am doing and I would not poke around inside a microwave that was powered up. You should not either. No joke, the voltage in thee are leathal.


step two
there are DIY sites on the net that tell you how to test an HV diode with the power off.

Yes a high voltage diode will test open with a standard vom.

yes the two filament leads will look like a short.
but they should not be shorted to the case.

read a few diy sites and keep the power off.

No, it's more than just "keep the power off". Energy is stored in
the HV section (capacitor doubler). The circuit *may* have been
designed with a bleeder to discharge the cap, over time.

But, the device is NOT WORKING. So, you can't assume any of
the things that were designed to protect you are functioning
correctly, either! (does "no user serviceable parts inside"
ring a bell? : )

I work with electricity all day -- and still treat it like a
youngster who just got zapped for the first time! It's not
like setting your hand on a hot stove -- where you MIGHT have
a chance to correct your mistake before incurring some serious
injury... (electrons are fast little devils!)

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 18:28:00 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:


I'm still baffled as to why the diode has no continuity. Is it because
my 9-volt multimeter doesn't have enough current to get through the

No. It doesn't have enough voltage. 9 volts is not enough to get
through some diodes. Especially since you call it an over-voltage
diode, t hat sounds like it shouldn't be passing any current unless
the voltage is too high. 9 volts is not too high!

So how much was the magnetron and how much the diode? I'd think the
diode was much less.

junction? I don't understand the magnetron properties so perhaps ohms
checking it was a useless test.

In general it's best to check voltages during operation, rather than
resistance when standing still, but the one place this is almost
impossible** is with a microwave. If you run it with the cage off the
microwaves will harm you, especially the liquid in your eyeballs I
hear.

I hope you were careful to assemble the metal cage around the
microwave parts exactly as it was originally. My old one made about
1965, had a woven metal gasket, which woudln't let electromagnetic
waves through, but I don't know what is used now.

**The way to do this would be to solder wires to the places you want
to measure and if possible run the wires outside of the microwave cage
without causing a leak and do the measurements when it's running but
fully shielding those nearby.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 18:28:00 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

Our GE JEM25DM3BB 1.0 cubic foot microwave oven crapped out recently
and we couldn't find a suitable substitute. The oven functions would
work, but it wouldn't heat. The problem is the microwave fits inside
an enclosure of our kitchen cabinetry. When we moved into the house
eight years ago there was another microwave there which died a couple
years later. We had trouble finding a replacement then, but the GE
barely fit in there. Now that GE model is discontinued and the only
ones with dimensions small enough to fit are 0.7 cubic foot or less.
The wife was not pleased with the choices.

My first option was to cut out the enclosure a bit more to get a normal
sized microwave in there, but a woodworking friend pointed out it would
look funny because the hole would extend all the way up to the bottom
of the cabinet door above it. The wife was not pleased with that
choice either.

This is one reason I dont like the idea of built in appliances. Whether
it's a microwave, range, dishwasher or anything else, sooner or later it
will need to be repaired or replaced. It's hard or impossible to find a
replacement that will fit. And if parts are even available, they cost
more than a new appliance. Of course if your home comes that way, you're
stuck with it.

on 2/16/2016, badgolferman supposed :
Our GE JEM25DM3BB 1.0 cubic foot microwave oven crapped out recently
and we couldn't find a suitable substitute. The oven functions would
work, but it wouldn't heat. The problem is the microwave fits inside
an enclosure of our kitchen cabinetry. When we moved into the house
eight years ago there was another microwave there which died a couple
years later. We had trouble finding a replacement then, but the GE
barely fit in there. Now that GE model is discontinued and the only
ones with dimensions small enough to fit are 0.7 cubic foot or less.
The wife was not pleased with the choices.

My first option was to cut out the enclosure a bit more to get a normal
sized microwave in there, but a woodworking friend pointed out it would
look funny because the hole would extend all the way up to the bottom
of the cabinet door above it. The wife was not pleased with that
choice either.

My next option was to repair the one we have. After researching
microwave ovens, the troubleshooting guides pointed to the overvoltage
diode and the magnetron as the likely suspects for the symptoms of this
oven. I disassembled the oven and took out the items. The diode was
open in both directions so I immediately suspected it. I checked the
magnetron for continuity and the leads had 0.000 ohms resistance
between them. Hmm, that looks bad too. The high voltage capacitor
seemed to be charging and discharging when I put the multimeter leads
on it. I ordered the parts with next day delivery and the total was
more than $200. Ugh...

When the new parts arrived I immediately ohms checked them and found
the very same results as the ones I took out -- the diode was open in
both directions and the magnetron was shorted. This time I was not
pleased!

Facing no other options I went ahead and installed the diode first and
heated up a cup of water for a minute. Still cold. Next I installed
the magnetron and held my breath while I heated up the cup of water.
After half a minute I noticed steam inside! When I took out the cup
after a minute it was hot. I showed the cup to my wife and this time
she was pleased. The microwave oven is back in the kitchen cabinet and
working fine. Warming up leftovers in a pan or heating up the leftover
morning coffee were good incentives to get this resolved.

I'm still baffled as to why the diode has no continuity. Is it because
my 9-volt multimeter doesn't have enough current to get through the
junction? I don't understand the magnetron properties so perhaps ohms
checking it was a useless test.

My built-in microwave stopped heating after 12 years use. I looked into
fixing it and found the magnatron to be a very expensive part, so I
bought a replacement microwave [Same size same brand same options] for
less than half the cost of a replacement magnatron, and installed the
oven myself. That was two years ago.
Sometimes fixing something is just to satisfy ones ego when a complete
replacement is cheeper.
In your case, a replacement oven wasn't an option. Glad you got it
fixed .

Don Y wrote:

The maggie will look almost like a dead short. Is your DMM truly
accurate to 3 digits? I.e., is that 0.000 really 0.000 or more like
1.0?

Only if I turn it upside down! This is what I was looking at.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...ew?usp=sharing

Stormin Mormon wrote:

The line
at the bottom, you got your machine going. And
made your wife happy. Way to go, man!

This was nothing compared to taking out the window motor of my car and
retraining the automatic stop.

Micky wrote:

So how much was the magnetron and how much the diode? I'd think the
diode was much less.

The magnetron was $161 and the diode was $35 + $25 next day air
shipping. I could have gotten cheaper ones on Amazon but it would have
taken longer to get them. This place also had a return policy so long
as I didn't install the part. When I first installed the magnetron I
used rubber washers to keep the screws from marring the installation
tabs in case I needed to return it.

Considering the closest sized microwave I could find was $240 and the
fee I would pay for a carpenter to modify the kitchen cabinet, I think
this worked out more cost efficiently.

wrote:


Ex, I see you caused AIOE to banlist the other group. Be careful what
you do here. Hope you make it back there some day.

wrote in message
...
This is one reason I dont like the idea of built in appliances. Whether
it's a microwave, range, dishwasher or anything else, sooner or later it
will need to be repaired or replaced. It's hard or impossible to find a
replacement that will fit. And if parts are even available, they cost
more than a new appliance. Of course if your home comes that way, you're
stuck with it.

I agree that built in items are not for me either. I bought a house and
where the refrgerator goes is between some cabinets and it would take a
major redo to fit in a larger one. Had to settle for a smaller one than we
wanted because of the space.

Over the years almost all building supplies change sizes. The 2x4 studs get
thinner, the 3/4 inch plywood gets thiner. Then when you need to replace
something it is usually a total tear out and replace the whole room.

On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 14:38:42 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

Micky wrote:

So how much was the magnetron and how much the diode? I'd think the
diode was much less.

The magnetron was $161 and the diode was $35 + $25 next day air
shipping. I could have gotten cheaper ones on Amazon but it would have
taken longer to get them. This place also had a return policy so long
as I didn't install the part.

Wow. I don't know any place that takes back electrical parts.

When I first installed the magnetron I
used rubber washers to keep the screws from marring the installation
tabs in case I needed to return it.

Partly for this reason, although I agree if nothing changes, you
should be able to fairly declare that you didnt' burn it out. 99%
certainty.

Considering the closest sized microwave I could find was $240 and the
fee I would pay for a carpenter to modify the kitchen cabinet, I think
this worked out more cost efficiently.

My brother burned out the microwave by putting in a metal rack that
looked almost identical to the rack that was supposed to be there.
He's supposedly known for mistakes but this one would have been easy
to make (whoever washed it should have put the right one back in the
microwave. That was probably the nanny/maid who was washing things
all the time, and maybe she would have with enough time.). There was
burn damage to a plastic shelf peg, so I'm sure it was the rack.

I arrive for a visit and between visits and meals I'm looking for
tools and taking it apart, and I tell my sister in law I might be able
to fix it but she insists on buying a new one. The old one has a
blown fuse inside, a simple glass fuse, but I have no car. There's a
party that night at their house (related to the reason I was visiting)
so I hide the big microwave on the floor behind the wet bar between
the kitchen and the front hall/mini-living room.

The next day the microwave is gone. I find it out by the garbage,
replace the fuse, it works, so I borrow a car and take it to Goodwill.
My sister-in-law has already hired a Mexican/handyman/carpenter to
redo the facade in front of the microwave area. A much smaller effort
than yours would have been, but combined with the MW itself, this is
one of many reasons related to her that my brother is well over 65 and
still working. What she doesn't know about money would fill an
ocean.

On 2/17/2016 5:20 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 18:28:00 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

Our GE JEM25DM3BB 1.0 cubic foot microwave oven crapped out recently
and we couldn't find a suitable substitute. The oven functions would
work, but it wouldn't heat. The problem is the microwave fits inside
an enclosure of our kitchen cabinetry. When we moved into the house
eight years ago there was another microwave there which died a couple
years later. We had trouble finding a replacement then, but the GE
barely fit in there. Now that GE model is discontinued and the only
ones with dimensions small enough to fit are 0.7 cubic foot or less.
The wife was not pleased with the choices.

My first option was to cut out the enclosure a bit more to get a normal
sized microwave in there, but a woodworking friend pointed out it would
look funny because the hole would extend all the way up to the bottom
of the cabinet door above it. The wife was not pleased with that
choice either.


This is one reason I dont like the idea of built in appliances. Whether
it's a microwave, range, dishwasher or anything else, sooner or later it
will need to be repaired or replaced. It's hard or impossible to find a
replacement that will fit. And if parts are even available, they cost
more than a new appliance. Of course if your home comes that way, you're
stuck with it.


We have a built-in oven/microwave combo. Not sure what happened, but
the microwave quit working. It may just be a fuse, but it's very
difficult to get to to even check, and we'd have to remove the oven that
sits below it in order to check what's wrong with that microwave.

The over works just fine. We ended up just buying a free standing
microwave that sits on the counter.

--
Maggie

On 2/17/2016 7:32 AM, badgolferman wrote:
Don Y wrote:

The maggie will look almost like a dead short. Is your DMM truly
accurate to 3 digits? I.e., is that 0.000 really 0.000 or more like
1.0?

Only if I turn it upside down! This is what I was looking at.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...ew?usp=sharing

Sure *looks* like a short! :

If you still have it, you might check leads to case to see if the
coil failed internally.

On 02/16/2016 10:28 AM, badgolferman wrote:

My next option was to repair the one we have.
[snip]

Before you attempt to fix, let alone open a microwave open, you would
be wise to learn about their theory of operation, how the components
work, and how to not kill yourself. If you attempt to "learn as you
go", make sure you have a good insurance policy to provide for your wife
after you have gone.

Being a usenet guy I'm surprised you haven't already read this, but here
it is anyway: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/micfaq.htm

Jon

Holy ****, Batman! Did this clown just write a novel?

On 2/17/2016 9:34 AM, badgolferman wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:

The line
at the bottom, you got your machine going. And
made your wife happy. Way to go, man!

This was nothing compared to taking out the window motor of my car and
retraining the automatic stop.


Yes, those are miserable. You da man! More success.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 11:28:04 AM UTC-7, badgolferman wrote:
Our GE JEM25DM3BB 1.0 cubic foot microwave oven crapped out

After researching
microwave ovens, the troubleshooting guides pointed to the overvoltage
diode and the magnetron as the likely suspects for the symptoms of this
oven. I disassembled the oven and took out the items. The diode was
open in both directions so I immediately suspected it. I checked the
magnetron for continuity and the leads had 0.000 ohms resistance
between them. Hmm, that looks bad too. The high voltage capacitor
seemed to be charging and discharging when I put the multimeter leads
on it. I ordered the parts with next day delivery and the total was
more than $200. Ugh...

When the new parts arrived I immediately ohms checked them and found
the very same results as the ones I took out -- the diode was open in
both directions and the magnetron was shorted. This time I was not
pleased!

I'm still baffled as to why the diode has no continuity. Is it because
my 9-volt multimeter doesn't have enough current to get through the
junction? I don't understand the magnetron properties so perhaps ohms
checking it was a useless test.

$200? Did you order from an appliance supply instead of from MCM
Electronics, Dalbani, Premium Parts, etc? It's possible you could
have bought another small microwave oven and taken parts from it
because many magnetrons are identical. The mechanical fit of
the magnetron must be exactly the same or strong microwaves can
leak where the magnetron seals against the chassis.

What overvoltage diode? The electonic circuit board may have some
tiny ones, but I'd expect a MOV across the AC lines. OTOH
magnetrons are powered by thousands of volts provided by a circuit
consisting of a high voltage capacitor and high voltage diode
configured as a voltage doubler. This diode will measure as an
open circuit with digital multimeters because they apply only
about 2-3 volts for ohms or diode measurement, and high voltage
diodes consist of several diodes connected in series and require
more voltage to be applied , so a higher voltage has to be applied
to it to conduct. Some analog meters will do that on their
higher resistance scales, like 10x or 100x, or you can use a
source of at least about 9 volts DC with a resistor of at least
10,000 ohms in series.

wrote:

$200? Did you order from an appliance supply instead of from MCM
Electronics, Dalbani, Premium Parts, etc? It's possible you could
have bought another small microwave oven and taken parts from it
because many magnetrons are identical. The mechanical fit of
the magnetron must be exactly the same or strong microwaves can
leak where the magnetron seals against the chassis.

How many microwave ovens should I have bought before I found the one
that fits properly?

The parts were bought from PartsDirect.com. In case you didn't notice,
I got them from there because they had a return policy and I could get
it next day air.

What overvoltage diode? The electonic circuit board may have some
tiny ones, but I'd expect a MOV across the AC lines. OTOH
magnetrons are powered by thousands of volts provided by a circuit
consisting of a high voltage capacitor and high voltage diode
configured as a voltage doubler. This diode will measure as an
open circuit with digital multimeters because they apply only
about 2-3 volts for ohms or diode measurement, and high voltage
diodes consist of several diodes connected in series and require
more voltage to be applied , so a higher voltage has to be applied
to it to conduct. Some analog meters will do that on their
higher resistance scales, like 10x or 100x, or you can use a
source of at least about 9 volts DC with a resistor of at least
10,000 ohms in series.

Maybe I said it wrong and it is a high voltage diode. I think you got
the point though.

On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 10:52:07 AM UTC-7, badgolferman wrote:
wrote:

$200? Did you order from an appliance supply instead of from MCM
Electronics, Dalbani, Premium Parts, etc? It's possible you could
have bought another small microwave oven and taken parts from it
because many magnetrons are identical. The mechanical fit of
the magnetron must be exactly the same or strong microwaves can
leak where the magnetron seals against the chassis.

How many microwave ovens should I have bought before I found the one
that fits properly?

2, from stores that are good about returns, in case you got the
wrong parts. I would have checked the UL registration number
to improve the odds of getting something that uses similar parts.

The parts were bought from PartsDirect.com. In case you didn't notice,
I got them from there because they had a return policy and I could get
it next day air.

I remember them charging $3 for speaking with them and claiming
they warned me of this when actually they hadn't because their
website had issues with browsers that weren't Firefox.

On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 17:37:44 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 10:52:07 AM UTC-7, badgolferman wrote:
wrote:

$200? Did you order from an appliance supply instead of from MCM
Electronics, Dalbani, Premium Parts, etc? It's possible you could
have bought another small microwave oven and taken parts from it
because many magnetrons are identical. The mechanical fit of
the magnetron must be exactly the same or strong microwaves can
leak where the magnetron seals against the chassis.

How many microwave ovens should I have bought before I found the one
that fits properly?

2, from stores that are good about returns, in case you got the
wrong parts. I would have checked the UL registration number
to improve the odds of getting something that uses similar parts.

So you would take the microwave apart, and if it didn't match, return
it? No store is that good about repairs.

The parts were bought from PartsDirect.com. In case you didn't notice,
I got them from there because they had a return policy and I could get
it next day air.

I remember them charging $3 for speaking with them and claiming
they warned me of this when actually they hadn't because their
website had issues with browsers that weren't Firefox.

Micky wrote:

$200? Did you order from an appliance supply instead of from
MCM Electronics, Dalbani, Premium Parts, etc? It's possible you
could have bought another small microwave oven and taken parts
from it because many magnetrons are identical. The mechanical
fit of the magnetron must be exactly the same or strong
microwaves can leak where the magnetron seals against the
chassis.
How many microwave ovens should I have bought before I found the
one that fits properly?

2, from stores that are good about returns, in case you got the
wrong parts. I would have checked the UL registration number
to improve the odds of getting something that uses similar parts.

So you would take the microwave apart, and if it didn't match, return
it? No store is that good about repairs.

The whole idea of buying microwaves and taking them apart to find the
right parts is totally asinine.

On 2/22/2016 5:23 AM, badgolferman wrote:
The whole idea of buying microwaves and taking them apart to find the
right parts is totally asinine.

+42

How do you *know* this is the same part? Because it LOOKS the
same? Because it has the same number stamped on it? How
do you know they aren't "rejects" (failed some critical
characterization) that People's Microwave Oven Factory #234
rationalized was unnecessarily strict -- for THEIR product

[Of course, the product you now have would be neither
theirs NOR the original manufacturer's]

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 12:23:53 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

Micky wrote:

$200? Did you order from an appliance supply instead of from
MCM Electronics, Dalbani, Premium Parts, etc? It's possible you
could have bought another small microwave oven and taken parts
from it because many magnetrons are identical. The mechanical
fit of the magnetron must be exactly the same or strong
microwaves can leak where the magnetron seals against the
chassis.
How many microwave ovens should I have bought before I found the
one that fits properly?

2, from stores that are good about returns, in case you got the
wrong parts. I would have checked the UL registration number
to improve the odds of getting something that uses similar parts.

So you would take the microwave apart, and if it didn't match, return
it? No store is that good about repairs.

The whole idea of buying microwaves and taking them apart to find the
right parts is totally asinine.

Of course. It's one thing when I saved broken VCR's for their
parts. I already owned them and they don't take up much room. (Though
when I needed a Zenith head motor, I couldn't find one. Neither could
the shop I used to go to in his stock. )

On Sat, 22 Mar 1969 14:05:04 -0800 (PST), wrote:

replying to Tom Billings , robertjones wrote:
tbillings007 wrote:


Spring is almost here. If you live in a cold climate where you get snow
and ice, your old tires are junk. Winter ruins tires faster than any
other weather conditions. Whether you drive a car, truck, or any other
vehicle, your tires Must be replaced soon. Dont risk your life on old
worn tires which have been damaged by the ice and snow of Winter. Doing
so could be lethal.

As soon as the ice and snow is gone, and the potholes have been repaired
get new tires and also make sure your front end is properly aligned, and
your vehicle is inspected for any damages on the bottom of your vehicle
which are often caused by winter driving conditions.


---

I just purchased a new set of tires, but there is still some ice and
snow on the ground, and a lot of potholes in the roads. I was going to
get them installed on my car, but after reading this, I decided that
maybe I should wait a few more weeks. told the guys at the tire garage
to hold off on installing them for now, and just brought the tires home.
How long should I wait to install them?

Robert J.

On Sun, 06 Mar 2016 23:37:07 -0600, robertjones
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 1969 14:05:04 -0800 (PST), wrote:

replying to Tom Billings , robertjones wrote:
tbillings007 wrote:


Can somebody do the math from "1969"?

On Sun, 06 Mar 2016 23:37:07 -0600, robertjones
wrote:

On Sat, 22 Mar 1969 14:05:04 -0800 (PST), wrote:

replying to Tom Billings , robertjones wrote:
tbillings007 wrote:


Spring is almost here. If you live in a cold climate where you get snow
and ice, your old tires are junk. Winter ruins tires faster than any
other weather conditions. Whether you drive a car, truck, or any other
vehicle, your tires Must be replaced soon. Dont risk your life on old
worn tires which have been damaged by the ice and snow of Winter. Doing
so could be lethal.

As soon as the ice and snow is gone, and the potholes have been repaired
get new tires and also make sure your front end is properly aligned, and
your vehicle is inspected for any damages on the bottom of your vehicle
which are often caused by winter driving conditions.


---

I just purchased a new set of tires, but there is still some ice and
snow on the ground, and a lot of potholes in the roads. I was going to
get them installed on my car, but after reading this, I decided that
maybe I should wait a few more weeks. told the guys at the tire garage
to hold off on installing them for now, and just brought the tires home.
How long should I wait to install them?

Robert J.


Your life is at risk driving on your old tires. In the winter, I get
new ones every month. You heard the man, your tires are junk. Put
them on today and get another set in mid April.

On 03/06/2016 11:37 PM, robertjones wrote:



I just purchased a new set of tires, but there is still some ice and
snow on the ground, and a lot of potholes in the roads. I was going to
get them installed on my car, but after reading this, I decided that
maybe I should wait a few more weeks. told the guys at the tire garage
to hold off on installing them for now, and just brought the tires home.
How long should I wait to install them?

X


You can safely disregard that post from 1969


In those days they had snow tires
and by Spring, they'd melt.


Now they make tires from synthetic rubber

On 03/07/2016 04:05 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Your life is at risk driving on your old tires. In the winter, I get
new ones every month. You heard the man, your tires are junk. Put
them on today and get another set in mid April.

I'll be glad to help your dispose of your old tires -- if they fit any
of my vehicles.

replying to Micky, Larsenm wrote:
Do you know that this have really high quality gunn diode
(https://911electronic.com/gunn-diode/) inside magnetron?

--
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