I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner use on limbs.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional homeowner trimming?

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner use on limbs.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional homeowner trimming?

I just climb up and use chain saw wearing goggles. I have nothing to
worry below from falling limbs.

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 14:21:40 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner use on limbs.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional homeowner trimming?

Can you rent one of these locally?

(telescoping shaft (from 7’ 6” to 11’ 6”)

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/pole-pruners/professional-pole-pruners/ht131/

Rental on Saturday and Sunday may be free, with a Monday return date.

On 2/4/2016 3:21 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off
from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating
saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I
want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle
aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly
with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner
use on limbs.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional
homeowner trimming?

There are basically three "remote" options:
- manual pole saw (i.e., a regular saw on the end of a long pole)
- a small (typ electric) motorized saw on the end of a long pole
- a remotely driven (motor at the user end of the pole) chain saw

All suffer from the "remoteness" aspect -- you're trying to position
and control a cutting element many feet distant from your "actuators"
(arms).

All also suffer from a typical naivite of operation that typically
leads to "torn" limbs or "collateral damage" (from the saw's continued,
but undesired, action after the limb has been severed).

The "motorized saw on pole" is often unwieldy -- too much mass on too
long of a lever arm. I suspect your sawzall-on-a-pole would suffer
a similar fate. Your arms get REALLY tired, REALLY fast when working
above your head/shoulders.

For small limbs, I like a manual pole saw as I can be much more
precise in the amount of "damage" I do to the living tree in the
process.

For large limbs, an OVERLY LONG motorized trimmer (so I can hold the
bulk of the weight down at waist level instead of overhead).

For really high limbs, I hire a monkey to do the work for me. (there are
other, safer, ways I can save money than climbing a large tree just to
lop off a branch!)

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 14:21:40 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner use on limbs.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional homeowner trimming?
The electric pole mounted chain saw I bought from Princess Auto for
$70 a number of years back was one of the best tool purchaces I ever
made.

A ricip on the end of a 2X2 aluminum angle is just an accident
impatient to happen. They jump around enough when held close to the
body with 2 hands.

On 2/4/2016 4:21 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner use on limbs.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional homeowner trimming?




I don't know what's best, just want to mention safety:


If you do end up using a chain saw, new ever work from below it, or put
yourself in a position where the saw could hit you in case of a "kick back".


I heard of someone killing themselves.

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 14:21:40 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner use on limbs.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional homeowner trimming?

I would rethink the pole saw. The one I have uses a detachable
electric saw that is also handy for cutting up the stuff you drop.

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 15:46:46 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/4/2016 3:21 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off
from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating
saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I

I had a whole tree like that a couple summers ago. It was still
attached at the ground, but 25 feet of trunk went over my back yard,
about 8 to 9 feet high.

want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

Well sure. I only owned a small electric chain saw because one was
for sale at a yard sale, but I've used it a lot. They're now
designed so both hands have to be where they are safe, and if you put
safe holding first, and safe climing the ladder a step or two second,
I don't think you'll have more trouble than I did.

I spent quite some time deciding where to cut first, so when cut one
half of the trunk wouldn't spring up out of my reach, and the other
half wouldn't fall down on my bushes.

I have an aluminum 6' step ladder and only had to go up two steps if I
also held the saw above my head. 4 steps, I could have held the saw
straight out, but the first choice seemed better. If I had someone to
hold the ladder, maybe it woudl have been the second choice. .

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle
aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly
with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner
use on limbs.

The saw I happened to buy is one size larger than the one that comes
with a pole attachment. In fact the handles are the same and I could
attach this one to a pole, but I don't own the pole and it would
really be too heavy as Don writes below. I did borrow it once from
the friend of a friend, so that's how I know.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional
homeowner trimming?

There are basically three "remote" options:
- manual pole saw (i.e., a regular saw on the end of a long pole)
- a small (typ electric) motorized saw on the end of a long pole
- a remotely driven (motor at the user end of the pole) chain saw

All suffer from the "remoteness" aspect -- you're trying to position
and control a cutting element many feet distant from your "actuators"
(arms).

All also suffer from a typical naivite of operation that typically
leads to "torn" limbs or "collateral damage" (from the saw's continued,
but undesired, action after the limb has been severed).

The "motorized saw on pole" is often unwieldy -- too much mass on too
long of a lever arm. I suspect your sawzall-on-a-pole would suffer
a similar fate. Your arms get REALLY tired, REALLY fast when working
above your head/shoulders.

Not only that, but I woudlnt' be surprised if the blade stops in the
wood and the rest of the saw goes back and forth instead.

Since a chain saw goes only in one direction, pulling the saw away
from you, you just have to hold it back and it cuts.

For small limbs, I like a manual pole saw as I can be much more
precise in the amount of "damage" I do to the living tree in the
process.

Of course his limbs are already broken off.

For large limbs, an OVERLY LONG motorized trimmer (so I can hold the
bulk of the weight down at waist level instead of overhead).

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:42:59 -0600, philo wrote:



I don't know what's best, just want to mention safety:


If you do end up using a chain saw, new ever work from below it, or put
yourself in a position where the saw could hit you in case of a "kick back".

I was not clear. I said I had my arms over my head, but they were
also in front of me. Maybe philo woudln't like that either. with a
ten-foot ladder, I definitely would have climbed higher and held the
saw straight out.

The OP doesn't need a pole saw if they are only 8 to 10 feet high,
unless he has no ladder at all.


I heard of someone killing themselves.

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:37:23 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:42:59 -0600, philo wrote:



I don't know what's best, just want to mention safety:


If you do end up using a chain saw, new ever work from below it, or put
yourself in a position where the saw could hit you in case of a "kick back".

I was not clear. I said I had my arms over my head, but they were
also in front of me. Maybe philo woudln't like that either. with a
ten-foot ladder, I definitely would have climbed higher and held the
saw straight out.

The OP doesn't need a pole saw if they are only 8 to 10 feet high,
unless he has no ladder at all.


I heard of someone killing themselves.

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top
down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 22:01:08 -0500, wrote:

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top
down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

Dang. I've never seen a Ficus that big at a typical home property. I
know if they get water they grow like mad. Next to a sewer septic line
/ field or near a natural spring.

They are related to the Banyan trees. Ever see the one at the old Lee
county courthouse?

On 02/04/2016 06:37 PM, Micky wrote:
On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:42:59 -0600, philo wrote:



I don't know what's best, just want to mention safety:


If you do end up using a chain saw, new ever work from below it, or put
yourself in a position where the saw could hit you in case of a "kick back".

I was not clear. I said I had my arms over my head, but they were
also in front of me. Maybe philo woudln't like that either. with a
ten-foot ladder, I definitely would have climbed higher and held the
saw straight out.
\



And I said with a chain saw.


A hand operated saw of any type would not be anywhere near as dangerous.
The OP doesn't need a pole saw if they are only 8 to 10 feet high,
unless he has no ladder at all.


I heard of someone killing themselves.

On 02/04/2016 09:01 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:37:23 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:42:59 -0600, philo wrote:



I don't know what's best, just want to mention safety:


If you do end up using a chain saw, new ever work from below it, or put
yourself in a position where the saw could hit you in case of a "kick back".

I was not clear. I said I had my arms over my head, but they were
also in front of me. Maybe philo woudln't like that either. with a
ten-foot ladder, I definitely would have climbed higher and held the
saw straight out.

The OP doesn't need a pole saw if they are only 8 to 10 feet high,
unless he has no ladder at all.


I heard of someone killing themselves.

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top
down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.




Top down was the smart thing to do.



http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 22:19:14 -0600, philo wrote:

On 02/04/2016 09:01 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:37:23 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:42:59 -0600, philo wrote:



I don't know what's best, just want to mention safety:


If you do end up using a chain saw, new ever work from below it, or put
yourself in a position where the saw could hit you in case of a "kick back".

I was not clear. I said I had my arms over my head, but they were
also in front of me. Maybe philo woudln't like that either. with a
ten-foot ladder, I definitely would have climbed higher and held the
saw straight out.

The OP doesn't need a pole saw if they are only 8 to 10 feet high,
unless he has no ladder at all.


I heard of someone killing themselves.

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top
down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.




Top down was the smart thing to do.



http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

I took down a 30+ foot cherry tree, all except the bottom 4 feet or so
of trunk drom the top dwn with my wimpy electric pole saw and an 8
foot step ladder, and without setting foot in the tree.

On 2/4/2016 11:04 PM, wrote:

I took down a 30+ foot cherry tree, all except the bottom 4 feet or so
of trunk drom the top dwn with my wimpy electric pole saw and an 8
foot step ladder, and without setting foot in the tree.


Probably no comparison, but years ago we moved into our current house
and it had a row of 4 foot holly bushes that we hated in front of the
porch. All I had was a pair of rose clippers, and I took down the
entire row of holly bushes one branch at a time with those rose
clippers. It took me several days to do it all, though.

--
Maggie

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:47:50 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 22:01:08 -0500, wrote:

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top
down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

Dang. I've never seen a Ficus that big at a typical home property. I
know if they get water they grow like mad. Next to a sewer septic line
/ field or near a natural spring.

It is pretty wet back there and the water table is about 4 feet down.


They are related to the Banyan trees. Ever see the one at the old Lee
county courthouse?

Many times.
I used to be downtown several times a week. My neighbor has a banyan
and it is a weed too.

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 23:09:46 -0600, Muggles
wrote:

Probably no comparison, but years ago we moved into our current house
and it had a row of 4 foot holly bushes that we hated in front of the
porch. All I had was a pair of rose clippers, and I took down the
entire row of holly bushes one branch at a time with those rose
clippers. It took me several days to do it all, though.

--
Maggie

My wife took out about 100 square feet of Brazilian Peppers with her
electric chain saw. It took a chipper guy a half a day to chip it all
up after we dragged it around front.

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 01:00:50 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:47:50 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 22:01:08 -0500, wrote:

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top
down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

Dang. I've never seen a Ficus that big at a typical home property. I
know if they get water they grow like mad. Next to a sewer septic line
/ field or near a natural spring.

It is pretty wet back there and the water table is about 4 feet down.


They are related to the Banyan trees. Ever see the one at the old Lee
county courthouse?

Many times.
I used to be downtown several times a week. My neighbor has a banyan
and it is a weed too.


There is a very old picture of the "hanging judge", he tossed a rope
over the banyan tree branch at the court house. Shown in the Ft Myers
News Press. He used the photo for his election. (tough on crime) The
name escapes me right now. Circa 60's.

You didn't want to appear in his court :-)

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 22:12:27 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 01:00:50 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:47:50 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 22:01:08 -0500, wrote:

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top
down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

Dang. I've never seen a Ficus that big at a typical home property. I
know if they get water they grow like mad. Next to a sewer septic line
/ field or near a natural spring.

It is pretty wet back there and the water table is about 4 feet down.


They are related to the Banyan trees. Ever see the one at the old Lee
county courthouse?

Many times.
I used to be downtown several times a week. My neighbor has a banyan
and it is a weed too.


There is a very old picture of the "hanging judge", he tossed a rope
over the banyan tree branch at the court house. Shown in the Ft Myers
News Press. He used the photo for his election. (tough on crime) The
name escapes me right now. Circa 60's.

You didn't want to appear in his court :-)

Before my time. My family was in the St Pete area since 54 but I
didn't get to Lee County until 83-84

On 2/4/2016 3:14 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 14:21:40 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner use on limbs.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional homeowner trimming?
The electric pole mounted chain saw I bought from Princess Auto for
$70 a number of years back was one of the best tool purchaces I ever
made.

A ricip on the end of a 2X2 aluminum angle is just an accident
impatient to happen. They jump around enough when held close to the
body with 2 hands.

I have an aluminum logger's gaff about 20 feet long. I duct taped a
trimming saw onto the end
and used it to trim some high branches. That was three years ago
and my shoulder still hurts. The joints apparently didn't like
the angle of the force.

I got an electric trimming chainsaw on the end of a pole.
It's extremely unwieldy because the motor is on the end of the pole.
You need to cut the branch from the top side. But you can't do that
with a typical pole saw. When you cut from the side, the chain binds
up as the branch bends.

I'd recommend one with the motor on the close end of the pole and
a shaft that runs the saw on the far end.

You can buy a chain with a rope on each end. You throw it over the
branch and pull on the ends to saw the limb. I figgered it wouldn't
work, but I found one at a garage sale and tried it. I was
right. It's impossible to make the chain saw. All you do is pull
on the limb and it flexes down. You can have mine for free if
you climb the tree and get it unstuck from the tree.

If you can climb up the tree...and have all the safety gear to do so,
you can cut limbs from above. My problem was that all the ones that
needed trimming would have to be cut from below. I wouldn't risk that.

Then there are the limbs that would crash on the house if you cut
at the trunk. You'd need to climb out on the limb and cut it
into multiple chunks. I decided it was better to risk a limb falling
on the house than me falling on the ground.

I did one stupid thing. I leaned my longest extension ladder against a limb
and proceeded to cut off the far end. When the branch fell, the limb
flexed up and off the end of the ladder. I was extremely lucky that
there was another limb close enough to catch the ladder.
I'd thought about the problem beforehand, but seriously underestimated
how far the limb would flex.

I guess, in your case, it depends on how far from the trunk you need
to cut and how big is the piece that falls off.
10 feet isn't very high. You can do that with a stepladder and a rope
thrown over a higher limb to stabilize you. Or lash your ladder to the
tree on the side opposite the cut.

BEST alternative is to call a tree service.
I accosted one doing some work in the neighborhood.
He said, that tree in that location ain't gonna be a problem.
But He'd trim it for $400 if I wanted, plus another fee
to haul away the wood.
I'm not gonna climb a 60' tree.
I'm not gonna spend $400 to trim a tree that the expert says
ain't gonna be a problem. Fingers crossed...

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 00:04:37 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 22:19:14 -0600, philo wrote:

On 02/04/2016 09:01 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:37:23 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:42:59 -0600, philo wrote:



I don't know what's best, just want to mention safety:


If you do end up using a chain saw, new ever work from below it, or put
yourself in a position where the saw could hit you in case of a "kick back".

I was not clear. I said I had my arms over my head, but they were
also in front of me. Maybe philo woudln't like that either. with a
ten-foot ladder, I definitely would have climbed higher and held the
saw straight out.

The OP doesn't need a pole saw if they are only 8 to 10 feet high,
unless he has no ladder at all.


I heard of someone killing themselves.

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top

I'd never heard of an articulated man lift before, but I see that's
what they call them. I have a 35' pine that is dying. If I can't
save it ?? I will have to cut it down too. The land is sloped a
little and I'm guessing you were able to borrow yours because with
rental and delivery, $4-500 ?? , it might be no more to pay a tree
service to do the whole job.

down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

I took down a 30+ foot cherry tree, all except the bottom 4 feet or so
of trunk drom the top dwn with my wimpy electric pole saw and an 8
foot step ladder, and without setting foot in the tree.

How did you do this?

This sounds good if I could do it. How did you cut the trunk with a
pole saw. At an angle? And it fell where you wanted it to?

If I could get my tree to fall anywhere within a 60^ angle, at most it
would break a fence rail and a few pickets. I got a much smaller
tree to fall within 2 inches of where I planned.

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 18:14:06 -0500, wrote:

The electric pole mounted chain saw I bought from Princess Auto for
$70 a number of years back was one of the best tool purchaces I ever
made.

I have one of those too, and I really like it.

Micky wrote:
On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 00:04:37 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 22:19:14 -0600, philo wrote:

On 02/04/2016 09:01 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:37:23 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:42:59 -0600, philo
wrote:



I don't know what's best, just want to mention safety:


If you do end up using a chain saw, new ever work from below it,
or put yourself in a position where the saw could hit you in
case of a "kick back".

I was not clear. I said I had my arms over my head, but they were
also in front of me. Maybe philo woudln't like that either.
with a ten-foot ladder, I definitely would have climbed higher
and held the saw straight out.

The OP doesn't need a pole saw if they are only 8 to 10 feet high,
unless he has no ladder at all.


I heard of someone killing themselves.

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room
to just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the
top

I'd never heard of an articulated man lift before, but I see that's
what they call them. I have a 35' pine that is dying. If I can't
save it ?? I will have to cut it down too. The land is sloped a
little and I'm guessing you were able to borrow yours because with
rental and delivery, $4-500 ?? , it might be no more to pay a tree
service to do the whole job.

down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

I took down a 30+ foot cherry tree, all except the bottom 4 feet or
so of trunk drom the top dwn with my wimpy electric pole saw and an 8
foot step ladder, and without setting foot in the tree.

How did you do this?

This sounds good if I could do it. How did you cut the trunk with a
pole saw. At an angle? And it fell where you wanted it to?

If I could get my tree to fall anywhere within a 60^ angle, at most it
would break a fence rail and a few pickets. I got a much smaller
tree to fall within 2 inches of where I planned.

I've learned a lot about cutting trees since I started heating with wood .
I attach a rope or chain as high as I can get , tie the other end to a cable
hoist or block and tackle that's attached to the bottom of another tree .
Put tension on the tree towards where you want it to fall and put a notch
1/3 to 1/2 way thru on that side . Cut straight across from the notch ,
tightening your pull as you get deeper into the cut . I've had a couple that
didn't fall exactly where I wanted them , but most land within a foot or so
of the target area . My biggest problem has been the trees hanging up on
other trees on the way down .
I've got a couple that need to come down where I'm going to build our
bedroom , shoulda taken them before I built the living room ...
--
Snag

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 04:50:40 -0500, Micky
wrote:

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top

I'd never heard of an articulated man lift before, but I see that's
what they call them. I have a 35' pine that is dying. If I can't
save it ?? I will have to cut it down too. The land is sloped a
little and I'm guessing you were able to borrow yours because with
rental and delivery, $4-500 ?? , it might be no more to pay a tree
service to do the whole job.

Not even close. The tree service wanted $2000 to cut and haul away. I
got the lift for free because the club my wife works for had it all
week and we used it off hours. The dumpster was $350

On 2/5/2016 12:05 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 23:09:46 -0600, Muggles
wrote:

Probably no comparison, but years ago we moved into our current house
and it had a row of 4 foot holly bushes that we hated in front of the
porch. All I had was a pair of rose clippers, and I took down the
entire row of holly bushes one branch at a time with those rose
clippers. It took me several days to do it all, though.



My wife took out about 100 square feet of Brazilian Peppers with her
electric chain saw. It took a chipper guy a half a day to chip it all
up after we dragged it around front.


Never heard of them, so googled them. Were they the bushy version or
tree version (based on the images I saw on google)?

--
Maggie

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 11:10:13 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 04:50:40 -0500, Micky
wrote:

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top

I'd never heard of an articulated man lift before, but I see that's
what they call them. I have a 35' pine that is dying. If I can't
save it ?? I will have to cut it down too. The land is sloped a
little and I'm guessing you were able to borrow yours because with
rental and delivery, $4-500 ?? , it might be no more to pay a tree
service to do the whole job.

Not even close. The tree service wanted $2000 to cut and haul away. I

Wow. For less than that, maybe I can get a drone to loop a rope over
the top of the tree, to pull it in the right direction, and get a
laser to cut the tree from ground level.

Then when I'm done, I'll still have a drone and a laser.

Hey, I just made this up but it seems I'm not the first.
http://www.laserfocusworld.com/artic...a-in-1965.html
"Tree felling with lasers: a big idea in 1965 03/01/2005

But some ideas, such as tree felling with lasers, never materialized.
Although scientists seemed to understand that tree felling was not a
practical application for lasers, that didn’t stop the visionaries of
the day from telling the world about the ominous potential for laser
tree-cutting technology at the 1964/1965 World’s Fair."

Of course this article was written 10 years ago. If they have
brighter LEDs now, maybe they have sharper lasers.

"Woodworking, not tree cutting

While it was first reported in the Feb. 15, 1965, issue of Laser Focus
that felling trees with lasers was being researched by the University
of Michigan and the U. S. Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, WI, a
later story in the April 1 issue, “Woodworking-not tree
felling-laser’s forte,” retracted the finding. The article noted that
investigation into the report had, however, unearthed an interesting
paper resulting from research done two years earlier by the same
principals.1 Apparently, Norman C. Franz of the University of
Michigan’s Department of Wood Science and Technology confirmed that
tree felling was only an idea. “Equipment is not available at this
time to even research such a project,” he said.

Instead, the research subjected wood samples with a range of densities
to repeated laser pulses of less than 1-ms duration from a ruby laser
with a maximum energy output of 3 J per pulse. Although depth of
penetration was less than 1/16 in. per pulse for a 0.03-in.-diameter
hole, it was concluded that the laser could be a practical
wood-machining tool if a high-power, continuous-beam, more-economical
laser system could be developed. "


got the lift for free because the club my wife works for had it all
week and we used it off hours. The dumpster was $350

Next time your wife's club gets one, let me know. Hmmm. I have a
friend of a friend with a bucket truck, but this tree is not close
enough to the street; I'd probably have to drive on a lot of sidewalk
and I'd break a bunch of that.

"Tree-felling idea dies hard

Despite the reduced ambitions of the scientific community in applying
lasers to tree cutting, Laser Focus magazine ran a story in the May
15, 1965, issue, “World’s fair exhibit projects laser tree-clearing
machine.” It seems that the technological visionaries for the General
Motors Futurama exhibit at the 1964/1965 World’s Fair in New York City
were not ready to let the idea die: in their “ride into tomorrow”
exhibit, an insect-like laser tree cutter, designed to saw off trees
at their base (see figure) preceded a massive jungle road-builder that
was envisioned to make an express highway through densely wooded
forests in one continuous operation.

The visionaries cannot be faulted for wanting to apply laser
technology to tree cutting; they can only be faulted for not
anticipating the high cost associated with high-power lasers. Despite
the ability of today’s CO2 lasers to slice through 1/2-in.-thick wood
at 85 in. per minute, their multiple-thousand-dollar price tag still
cannot compete with a $200 chainsaw.

Cutting more than trees

The ultimate display of the power of today’s lasers is exemplified by
the Pentagon’s Airborne Laser weapons system-a bank of chemical
oxygen-iodine laser modules boasting multimegawatt power levels (see
Laser Focus World, July 2004, p. 15). Back here on Earth, lasers for
cutting and machining continue to improve in performance and decrease
in price.

The ruby laser used in those early wood-machining experiments is now
joined by high-power CO2 lasers with nitrogen and oxygen assist,
solid-state lamp- and diode-pumped lasers, Nd:YAG, and excimer lasers,
as well as emerging femtosecond Ti:sapphire lasers.

Today, a 4-kW CO2 laser with oxygen assist can cut 12-mm-thick carbon
steel at 60 in. per minute.2 With power levels exceeding 5 kW,
solid-state lamp- and diode-pumped lasers, along with CO2 lasers, are
the primary types of lasers used in industrial machining and
materials-processing (see Optoelectronics Report, Jan. 1, 2005, p. 4).
However, femtosecond lasers, first reported to have exceeded the 1-pW
power threshold by Lawrence Livermore National Laboratories
(Livermore, CA) in 1996 (see Laser Focus World, July 1996, p. 13), may
eventually surpass other laser types for some machining and cutting
applications.

While the price of femtosecond lasers is still prohibitive for most
industrial uses, solid-state and CO2 lasers with power levels
sufficient for cutting wood have significantly decreased in cost. If
costs and corresponding market prices continue to fall, perhaps tree
felling with lasers will again be a big idea in, say, 2025? ?"

Another problem is that they were cutting at ground level. I want my
first cut to be about 30 feet high. Although maybe I cut lift it up
there with a drone. They didn't have drones back then.

Doesn't Woodcutter Barbie come complete with its own laser tree cutter
and dreamhouse?

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 11:54:20 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 11:10:13 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 04:50:40 -0500, Micky
wrote:

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top

I'd never heard of an articulated man lift before, but I see that's
what they call them. I have a 35' pine that is dying. If I can't
save it ?? I will have to cut it down too. The land is sloped a
little and I'm guessing you were able to borrow yours because with
rental and delivery, $4-500 ?? , it might be no more to pay a tree
service to do the whole job.

Not even close. The tree service wanted $2000 to cut and haul away. I

Wow. For less than that, maybe I can get a drone to loop a rope over
the top of the tree, to pull it in the right direction, and get a
laser to cut the tree from ground level.

Then when I'm done, I'll still have a drone and a laser.

There was no real place to drop this except straight down

On Fri, 5 Feb 2016 10:16:00 -0600, Muggles
wrote:

On 2/5/2016 12:05 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 23:09:46 -0600, Muggles
wrote:

Probably no comparison, but years ago we moved into our current house
and it had a row of 4 foot holly bushes that we hated in front of the
porch. All I had was a pair of rose clippers, and I took down the
entire row of holly bushes one branch at a time with those rose
clippers. It took me several days to do it all, though.



My wife took out about 100 square feet of Brazilian Peppers with her
electric chain saw. It took a chipper guy a half a day to chip it all
up after we dragged it around front.


Never heard of them, so googled them. Were they the bushy version or
tree version (based on the images I saw on google)?

It is a distinction without a difference. The trunks can be 8" in
diameter but they tend to lean over and grow into a tangled mess.
They will shade out everything below them and take over.
Birds eat the berries, carry the seeds in their gut and drop them
everywhere in a pile of fertilizer. It is the perfect storm of
invasive exotic plants.
The only good thing is Garlon kills them easily. (residential version
is Ortho "Brush B Gone") You still have to cut them up and haul them
away. They aren't even good firewood.

wrote in message ...
On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 18:14:06 -0500, wrote:

The electric pole mounted chain saw I bought from Princess Auto for
$70 a number of years back was one of the best tool purchaces I ever
made.

I have one of those too, and I really like it.

Do you know how many amps yours are?

Anything like this 7A model?
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-amp-e...saw-68862.html

This is the one I bought and assembled before and then returned because it looked like a bad design.

wrote in message ...
On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 04:50:40 -0500, Micky
wrote:

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top

I'd never heard of an articulated man lift before, but I see that's
what they call them. I have a 35' pine that is dying. If I can't
save it ?? I will have to cut it down too. The land is sloped a
little and I'm guessing you were able to borrow yours because with
rental and delivery, $4-500 ?? , it might be no more to pay a tree
service to do the whole job.

Not even close. The tree service wanted $2000 to cut and haul away. I
got the lift for free because the club my wife works for had it all
week and we used it off hours. The dumpster was $350

Good deal! I had a 40-ft Mexican date palm cut down - mostly one long trunk. Trimmer climbed up and cut it down in 2-ft pieces, which I kept and used to build a make-shift retaining wall / plant stands.

On 2/5/2016 11:22 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 5 Feb 2016 10:16:00 -0600, Muggles
wrote:

On 2/5/2016 12:05 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 23:09:46 -0600, Muggles
wrote:

Probably no comparison, but years ago we moved into our current house
and it had a row of 4 foot holly bushes that we hated in front of the
porch. All I had was a pair of rose clippers, and I took down the
entire row of holly bushes one branch at a time with those rose
clippers. It took me several days to do it all, though.



My wife took out about 100 square feet of Brazilian Peppers with her
electric chain saw. It took a chipper guy a half a day to chip it all
up after we dragged it around front.


Never heard of them, so googled them. Were they the bushy version or
tree version (based on the images I saw on google)?

It is a distinction without a difference. The trunks can be 8" in
diameter but they tend to lean over and grow into a tangled mess.
They will shade out everything below them and take over.
Birds eat the berries, carry the seeds in their gut and drop them
everywhere in a pile of fertilizer. It is the perfect storm of
invasive exotic plants.
The only good thing is Garlon kills them easily. (residential version
is Ortho "Brush B Gone") You still have to cut them up and haul them
away. They aren't even good firewood.


Sounds about as useful as kudzu.

--
Maggie

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 22:12:27 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 01:00:50 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 19:47:50 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 22:01:08 -0500, wrote:

I took down a 40' fichus tree in pieces because there was no room to
just drop it. I got a big articulated man lift and cut from the top
down. It was really pretty easy and I never felt like I was in any
danger.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Ficus%20down.jpg

I filled a 30 yard dumpster

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Hort%20dumpster%20full.jpg

Dang. I've never seen a Ficus that big at a typical home property. I
know if they get water they grow like mad. Next to a sewer septic line
/ field or near a natural spring.

It is pretty wet back there and the water table is about 4 feet down.


They are related to the Banyan trees. Ever see the one at the old Lee
county courthouse?

Many times.
I used to be downtown several times a week. My neighbor has a banyan
and it is a weed too.


There is a very old picture of the "hanging judge", he tossed a rope
over the banyan tree branch at the court house. Shown in the Ft Myers
News Press. He used the photo for his election. (tough on crime) The
name escapes me right now. Circa 60's.

You didn't want to appear in his court :-)
Would that have been Judge Hyram Bryant?

On Fri, 05 Feb 2016 14:15:19 -0500, wrote:

There is a very old picture of the "hanging judge", he tossed a rope
over the banyan tree branch at the court house. Shown in the Ft Myers
News Press. He used the photo for his election. (tough on crime) The
name escapes me right now. Circa 60's.

You didn't want to appear in his court :-)

Would that have been Judge Hyram Bryant?

Doesn't ring a bell. I have a cousin that may remember his name.

The guy would "throw the book" at most everybody before his bench.

On Fri, 5 Feb 2016 09:23:46 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

wrote in message ...
On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 18:14:06 -0500, wrote:

The electric pole mounted chain saw I bought from Princess Auto for
$70 a number of years back was one of the best tool purchaces I ever
made.

I have one of those too, and I really like it.

Do you know how many amps yours are?

Anything like this 7A model?
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-amp-e...saw-68862.html

This is the one I bought and assembled before and then returned because
it looked like a bad design.

I dont have it handy to look at the amps it uses. It's a Remington
brand. If you got one from HF, it's good you returned it. It would
probably be in the garbage by now. HF electrical stuff is pure trash!
(Just my opinion, based on past purchases of the crap).

On Fri, 5 Feb 2016 09:23:46 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

wrote in message ...
On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 18:14:06 -0500, wrote:

The electric pole mounted chain saw I bought from Princess Auto for
$70 a number of years back was one of the best tool purchaces I ever
made.

I have one of those too, and I really like it.

Do you know how many amps yours are?

Anything like this 7A model?
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-amp-e...saw-68862.html

This is the one I bought and assembled before and then returned because it looked like a bad design.
Very similar. Closer to
http://www.lowes.com/pd_738805-70-PP...=50430508&pl=1

Actually I found mine - it is a homelite like this one --
http://www.amazon.com/Homelite-UT431...ct_top?ie=UTF8

On 2/4/2016 6:42 PM, philo wrote:

I don't know what's best, just want to mention safety:

If you do end up using a chain saw, new ever work from below it, or put
yourself in a position where the saw could hit you in case of a "kick
back".

I heard of someone killing themselves.

Also, not to work late in the day when
tired. Much more change of mistake at
the end of the day.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
I need to trim off some broken limbs 8-10 inches in diameter that broke off from the wind last week. I can handle the lower ones with my reciprocating saw. What's the best way to attack the ones 8-10 feet off the ground? I want to stay away from pole saws and chain saws.

I'm thinking about fastening my recip saw to a piece of 2x2 aluminum angle aluminum. I'm a metal fab guy, and by I mean bolted and supported properly with metal brackets, not fastened with duct tape.

But I would rather have something specifically made for occasional homeowner use on limbs.

Anyway, any other ideas besides these that you have used for occasional homeowner trimming?

===

Well, I got the trimming done with my old Harbor Freight recipicating saw and a 12-inch blade. Fastened it securely to an 8-ft 2x2, with the cord unplugged I locked the swich "on" and ran the cord down the side. Then I rested the body on the limb I was going to cut, plugged it and then set the blade down on the limb and let its weight do the work with no twisting or trying to rush it. While cutting I always kept the extension cord in one hand so I could unplug it quickly if needed. Just before the limb was cut through, I pulled the extension cord loose and sawed back and forth by hand. No binding, kicking, etc. No close callls.

I'm always way too cautious and if something is not going right, I bail out and start a different way or just stop. I spent a lot of time trimming all around the bigger limbs to be sure they would fall straight down and not bounce toward me or the wrong direction. With one limb I tied it to another tree to be sure it fell away from of some plants which I had been giving specific instructions not to step on.

Even after doing this fine, hiring a tree-trimming is the best way to go. I'm not recommending anyone else do what I did on account of I don't know your skill level. If you are not familiar with tree limbs & power tools I definitely would not do any tree trimming.

Will try to upload a few pictures later.

On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 11:54:22 AM UTC-5, Micky wrote:
While the price of femtosecond lasers is still prohibitive for most
industrial uses, solid-state and CO2 lasers with power levels
sufficient for cutting wood have significantly decreased in cost. If
costs and corresponding market prices continue to fall, perhaps tree
felling with lasers will again be a big idea in, say, 2025? ?"

Another problem is that they were cutting at ground level. I want my
first cut to be about 30 feet high. Although maybe I cut lift it up
there with a drone. They didn't have drones back then.


I think they had mirrors though.