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#1
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Meter base modifications
When replacing an electrical service (fuse to breaker) andmeter base,
is it acceptable to make a new hole in the meter base and not use the factory supplied knock-out in order to allow thw wire to enter the new panel directly from the back with the panel mounted where it needs to be for all the original wiring to line up with the new service panel? It is an "oversized" meter base which only has one knockout near the bottom of the back of the box and the cable needs to go through the wall about six inches higher than where that knock-out would postion the wire - and moving the meter base is not an option. If we have to use the factory knock-out, the power cable will come through the wall below the panel (only about 2 inches) and would require a pretty tight conduit elbow, or the power cable would need to run up six inches insde the wall before entering the panel. With a custom hole in the meter base the meter base and panel can be cpnnected with a short straight peice of conduit (about 6") Only issue I can see is putting in a non-standard hole could contavene the UL listing on the meter base?? |
#2
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Meter base modifications
On Friday, September 4, 2015 at 2:44:38 PM UTC-5, wrote:
When replacing an electrical service (fuse to breaker) andmeter base, is it acceptable to make a new hole in the meter base and not use the factory supplied knock-out in order to allow thw wire to enter the new panel directly from the back with the panel mounted where it needs to be for all the original wiring to line up with the new service panel? It is an "oversized" meter base which only has one knockout near the bottom of the back of the box and the cable needs to go through the wall about six inches higher than where that knock-out would postion the wire - and moving the meter base is not an option. If we have to use the factory knock-out, the power cable will come through the wall below the panel (only about 2 inches) and would require a pretty tight conduit elbow, or the power cable would need to run up six inches insde the wall before entering the panel. With a custom hole in the meter base the meter base and panel can be cpnnected with a short straight peice of conduit (about 6") Only issue I can see is putting in a non-standard hole could contavene the UL listing on the meter base?? There is a regular poster I think who is/was an electrical inspector who could tell you for sure but I don't see a problem coming up a few inches and cutting your own hole as long as you use the correct rigid nipple, lock nuts and bushings. I think you may need to use grounding bushings if I remember correctly. ^_^ [8~{} Uncle Meter Monster |
#3
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Meter base modifications
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#4
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Meter base modifications
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#6
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Meter base modifications
On Fri, 04 Sep 2015 20:43:48 -0400, wrote:
On Fri, 04 Sep 2015 15:44:13 -0400, wrote: When replacing an electrical service (fuse to breaker) andmeter base, is it acceptable to make a new hole in the meter base and not use the factory supplied knock-out in order to allow thw wire to enter the new panel directly from the back with the panel mounted where it needs to be for all the original wiring to line up with the new service panel? It is an "oversized" meter base which only has one knockout near the bottom of the back of the box and the cable needs to go through the wall about six inches higher than where that knock-out would postion the wire - and moving the meter base is not an option. If we have to use the factory knock-out, the power cable will come through the wall below the panel (only about 2 inches) and would require a pretty tight conduit elbow, or the power cable would need to run up six inches insde the wall before entering the panel. With a custom hole in the meter base the meter base and panel can be cpnnected with a short straight peice of conduit (about 6") Only issue I can see is putting in a non-standard hole could contavene the UL listing on the meter base?? The main issue is wire bending space. It will depend on the geometry between the lugs and the hole. With the sise of the new meter base, the fact I cannot go more than 125 amps (so the cables are relatively light, and the relative location of the new hole to the old one, I'm certain wire bend radius will be a non-issue. |
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