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Default Meter base modifications

When replacing an electrical service (fuse to breaker) andmeter base,
is it acceptable to make a new hole in the meter base and not use the
factory supplied knock-out in order to allow thw wire to enter the new
panel directly from the back with the panel mounted where it needs to
be for all the original wiring to line up with the new service panel?
It is an "oversized" meter base which only has one knockout near the
bottom of the back of the box and the cable needs to go through the
wall about six inches higher than where that knock-out would postion
the wire - and moving the meter base is not an option.

If we have to use the factory knock-out, the power cable will come
through the wall below the panel (only about 2 inches) and would
require a pretty tight conduit elbow, or the power cable would need to
run up six inches insde the wall before entering the panel. With a
custom hole in the meter base the meter base and panel can be
cpnnected with a short straight peice of conduit (about 6")

Only issue I can see is putting in a non-standard hole could contavene
the UL listing on the meter base??
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Default Meter base modifications

On Friday, September 4, 2015 at 2:44:38 PM UTC-5, wrote:
When replacing an electrical service (fuse to breaker) andmeter base,
is it acceptable to make a new hole in the meter base and not use the
factory supplied knock-out in order to allow thw wire to enter the new
panel directly from the back with the panel mounted where it needs to
be for all the original wiring to line up with the new service panel?
It is an "oversized" meter base which only has one knockout near the
bottom of the back of the box and the cable needs to go through the
wall about six inches higher than where that knock-out would postion
the wire - and moving the meter base is not an option.

If we have to use the factory knock-out, the power cable will come
through the wall below the panel (only about 2 inches) and would
require a pretty tight conduit elbow, or the power cable would need to
run up six inches insde the wall before entering the panel. With a
custom hole in the meter base the meter base and panel can be
cpnnected with a short straight peice of conduit (about 6")

Only issue I can see is putting in a non-standard hole could contavene
the UL listing on the meter base??


There is a regular poster I think who is/was an electrical inspector who could tell you for sure but I don't see a problem coming up a few inches and cutting your own hole as long as you use the correct rigid nipple, lock nuts and bushings. I think you may need to use grounding bushings if I remember correctly. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Meter Monster
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Default Meter base modifications

On 2015-09-04 3:44 PM, wrote:
When replacing an electrical service (fuse to breaker) andmeter base,
is it acceptable to make a new hole in the meter base and not use the
factory supplied knock-out in order to allow thw wire to enter the new
panel directly from the back with the panel mounted where it needs to
be for all the original wiring to line up with the new service panel?
It is an "oversized" meter base which only has one knockout near the
bottom of the back of the box and the cable needs to go through the
wall about six inches higher than where that knock-out would postion
the wire - and moving the meter base is not an option.

If we have to use the factory knock-out, the power cable will come
through the wall below the panel (only about 2 inches) and would
require a pretty tight conduit elbow, or the power cable would need to
run up six inches insde the wall before entering the panel. With a
custom hole in the meter base the meter base and panel can be
cpnnected with a short straight peice of conduit (about 6")

Only issue I can see is putting in a non-standard hole could contavene
the UL listing on the meter base??

I would speak to someone at your local utility as they must inspect
before a reconnection assuming you are doing this with a permit. When I
bought this house in Toronto it originally had a 60 amp service, first
job was to call up a buddy of mine who is an electrician to get the ball
rolling on a service upgrade. His work passed with flying colours and
has been working since, I have since added circuits but did not feel
comfortable doing the panel itself.

--
Froz...

Quando omni flunkus, moritati
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Default Meter base modifications

On Fri, 4 Sep 2015 16:31:19 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2015-09-04 3:44 PM, wrote:
When replacing an electrical service (fuse to breaker) andmeter base,
is it acceptable to make a new hole in the meter base and not use the
factory supplied knock-out in order to allow thw wire to enter the new
panel directly from the back with the panel mounted where it needs to
be for all the original wiring to line up with the new service panel?
It is an "oversized" meter base which only has one knockout near the
bottom of the back of the box and the cable needs to go through the
wall about six inches higher than where that knock-out would postion
the wire - and moving the meter base is not an option.

If we have to use the factory knock-out, the power cable will come
through the wall below the panel (only about 2 inches) and would
require a pretty tight conduit elbow, or the power cable would need to
run up six inches insde the wall before entering the panel. With a
custom hole in the meter base the meter base and panel can be
cpnnected with a short straight peice of conduit (about 6")

Only issue I can see is putting in a non-standard hole could contavene
the UL listing on the meter base??

I would speak to someone at your local utility as they must inspect
before a reconnection assuming you are doing this with a permit. When I
bought this house in Toronto it originally had a 60 amp service, first
job was to call up a buddy of mine who is an electrician to get the ball
rolling on a service upgrade. His work passed with flying colours and
has been working since, I have since added circuits but did not feel
comfortable doing the panel itself.

Will have a permit and be done by licensed electrical contractor, but
it will be done to my specifications. No shortcuts if there is a legal
way to do it "right" - which means the panel fits where the old panel
comes out, the wires line up with the knockouts in the panel and go in
with NO junction boxes cluttering up the service board so the panel
can be installed the "easy " way.

Heck, I'll take the greenley punches to the meter base myself if I
have to.

I'd do the entire job myself but the new regs here in Ontario make
that rather difficult since the meter base has to be replaced,
Waterloo North Hydro has to do the connect and reconnect, and I need
the ESA inspection for insurance purposes. The licensed electrical
contractor does the ESA inspection as part of the job, so an ESA
registered contractor is doing the whole job.


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Default Meter base modifications

On Fri, 04 Sep 2015 20:43:48 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 04 Sep 2015 15:44:13 -0400,
wrote:

When replacing an electrical service (fuse to breaker) andmeter base,
is it acceptable to make a new hole in the meter base and not use the
factory supplied knock-out in order to allow thw wire to enter the new
panel directly from the back with the panel mounted where it needs to
be for all the original wiring to line up with the new service panel?
It is an "oversized" meter base which only has one knockout near the
bottom of the back of the box and the cable needs to go through the
wall about six inches higher than where that knock-out would postion
the wire - and moving the meter base is not an option.

If we have to use the factory knock-out, the power cable will come
through the wall below the panel (only about 2 inches) and would
require a pretty tight conduit elbow, or the power cable would need to
run up six inches insde the wall before entering the panel. With a
custom hole in the meter base the meter base and panel can be
cpnnected with a short straight peice of conduit (about 6")

Only issue I can see is putting in a non-standard hole could contavene
the UL listing on the meter base??


The main issue is wire bending space. It will depend on the geometry
between the lugs and the hole.

With the sise of the new meter base, the fact I cannot go more than
125 amps (so the cables are relatively light, and the relative
location of the new hole to the old one, I'm certain wire bend radius
will be a non-issue.
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