OT?

My 2000 Toyota Solara convertible started displaying the Brake light on
the instrument panel a few months ago. It wasn't a parking brake
problem. It would go on for a couple minutes and then go off for an
hour, for example. Sometimes it would go on when I was cruising on the
highway and not using the brake.

The master cylinder was full. Well, it was maybe 1/4" low so I bought
some brake fluid (old brake fluid is supposed to be bad. It absorbs
water, so it's especially bad if you have anti-lock brakes, which iirc
have parts that can rust.)

I couldn't see the opening while pouring, only the front part of the
chamber through the milky plastic, where the level was lower, so I
filled it to the brim and when I put the cap on, it overflowed through
the hole in the cap.

That was 3 weeks ago and the light hasn't been on since. The counter
guy at Pep Boys said the same thing, that his light was on and only one
ounce of fluid to fill it up was enough to turn off the light.

No wires go to the cap and no evidence of anything in the top inch and a
half or more of the master cylinder to turn the brake light on if the
fluid level is low. I don't know why this worked.

| My 2000 Toyota Solara convertible started displaying the Brake light on
| the instrument panel a few months ago.

I have the same trouble with my Tacoma, but
it is the parking brake. The cable has become
stretched while the pull-back spring assembly
is stiff. The problem is that it just doesn't retract
fully, so it doesn't push down the little button
above the brake pedal to shut the light off. You
might check just to make sure that's not the
problem you're having. On the other hand, if you're
filling the brake fluid canister every 3 weeks you
have a serious problem. It's also not supposed to be
filled to the top. Or, at least, I've never seen one
where the fill line was at the top.

On Sunday, June 28, 2015 at 12:58:52 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
OT?

My 2000 Toyota Solara convertible started displaying the Brake light on
the instrument panel a few months ago. It wasn't a parking brake
problem. It would go on for a couple minutes and then go off for an
hour, for example. Sometimes it would go on when I was cruising on the
highway and not using the brake.

The master cylinder was full. Well, it was maybe 1/4" low so I bought
some brake fluid (old brake fluid is supposed to be bad. It absorbs
water, so it's especially bad if you have anti-lock brakes, which iirc
have parts that can rust.)

I couldn't see the opening while pouring, only the front part of the
chamber through the milky plastic, where the level was lower, so I
filled it to the brim and when I put the cap on, it overflowed through
the hole in the cap.

That was 3 weeks ago and the light hasn't been on since. The counter
guy at Pep Boys said the same thing, that his light was on and only one
ounce of fluid to fill it up was enough to turn off the light.

No wires go to the cap and no evidence of anything in the top inch and a
half or more of the master cylinder to turn the brake light on if the
fluid level is low. I don't know why this worked.

my voyager van does that occasionally, check brake pads. as the wear the fluid level drops light flickers at first going around a bend

get your brakes cchecked befor destroying rotors and drums

On Sunday, June 28, 2015 at 10:10:44 AM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2015 at 12:58:52 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
OT?

My 2000 Toyota Solara convertible started displaying the Brake light on
the instrument panel a few months ago. It wasn't a parking brake
problem. It would go on for a couple minutes and then go off for an
hour, for example. Sometimes it would go on when I was cruising on the
highway and not using the brake.

The master cylinder was full. Well, it was maybe 1/4" low so I bought
some brake fluid (old brake fluid is supposed to be bad. It absorbs
water, so it's especially bad if you have anti-lock brakes, which iirc
have parts that can rust.)

I couldn't see the opening while pouring, only the front part of the
chamber through the milky plastic, where the level was lower, so I
filled it to the brim and when I put the cap on, it overflowed through
the hole in the cap.

That was 3 weeks ago and the light hasn't been on since. The counter
guy at Pep Boys said the same thing, that his light was on and only one
ounce of fluid to fill it up was enough to turn off the light.

No wires go to the cap and no evidence of anything in the top inch and a
half or more of the master cylinder to turn the brake light on if the
fluid level is low. I don't know why this worked.

my voyager van does that occasionally, check brake pads. as the wear the fluid level drops light flickers at first going around a bend

get your brakes cchecked befor destroying rotors and drums

I would think a typical 2000 model year car would have a brake
fluid level sensor. Given that adding the fluid appears to have
fixed it, I'd say it's likely there.

On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 09:05:33 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

| My 2000 Toyota Solara convertible started displaying the Brake light on
| the instrument panel a few months ago.

I have the same trouble with my Tacoma, but
it is the parking brake. The cable has become
stretched while the pull-back spring assembly
is stiff. The problem is that it just doesn't retract
fully, so it doesn't push down the little button
above the brake pedal to shut the light off. You
might check just to make sure that's not the
problem you're having. On the other hand, if you're
filling the brake fluid canister every 3 weeks you
have a serious problem. It's also not supposed to be
filled to the top. Or, at least, I've never seen one
where the fill line was at the top.

There is a float switch in the reservoir, and they can be "flakey",
triggering the brake warning light even with the fluid at the correct
level.

| There is a float switch in the reservoir, and they can be "flakey",
| triggering the brake warning light even with the fluid at the correct
| level.

That could explain the light going
out when he tops it up. Maybe the float
switch is sticking. Now the question is
where the heck is all of his brake fluid
going to?

On 6/28/2015 11:00 AM, trader_4 wrote:

I would think a typical 2000 model year car would have a brake fluid
level sensor. Given that adding the fluid appears to have fixed it,
I'd say it's likely there.

It does. Plugin on the passenger side of the reservoir.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...a0729567-1.jpg

On Sunday, June 28, 2015 at 1:38:37 PM UTC-4, Mayayana wrote:
| There is a float switch in the reservoir, and they can be "flakey",
| triggering the brake warning light even with the fluid at the correct
| level.

That could explain the light going
out when he tops it up. Maybe the float
switch is sticking. Now the question is
where the heck is all of his brake fluid
going to?

All this brake fluid? He said he only put in a small
amount. It's 99% odds that it's going to the calipers
as the pads wear.

On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 13:18:49 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 09:05:33 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

| My 2000 Toyota Solara convertible started displaying the Brake light on
| the instrument panel a few months ago.

I have the same trouble with my Tacoma, but
it is the parking brake. The cable has become
stretched while the pull-back spring assembly

If the cable has stretched, there is an adjustment at the base of the
lever that will shorten the cable maybe as much as a half inch. It's
usually a nut that pulls in a screw that has the cable attached. If
that adjustment is insufficient, JCWhitney used to sell a cable
shortener that went on where there were 2 inches of cable in the air.
It's shaped like a Euro symbol, or an E, with a hook in the middle and a
screw that pulls the hook back, while the rest of cable is caught on the
upper and lower arms of the E. Okay, not surprisingly, they still
sell them. Search on brake cable shortener.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1115360...lpid=82&chn=ps

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...HerhoCglHw_wcB
This one has the hook going the wrong direction!! And the reviews are
interesting. For some, it bent.

https://chircoestore.com/cable-short...-EMBoCWtrw_wcB
This one looks entirely different... Ah, it's a replacement or maybe an
extreme version of the adjusting screw I first mentioned. I think it
might not fit in many cars, but it would make going under the car
unnecessary.

is stiff. The problem is that it just doesn't retract
fully, so it doesn't push down the little button
above the brake pedal to shut the light off. You

You have a little button that shuts the light off?

might check just to make sure that's not the
problem you're having.

As I said, It's not the emergency brake.

On the other hand, if you're
filling the brake fluid canister every 3 weeks you

I've had the car for 3 or 4 years, and it's only one ounce below
overflowing. I guess these are general instructions, not just for me.

have a serious problem. It's also not supposed to be
filled to the top. Or, at least, I've never seen one
where the fill line was at the top.

Me neither, but there's no arguing with success.

There is a float switch in the reservoir, and they can be "flakey",
triggering the brake warning light even with the fluid at the correct
level.

I have to think about this. I guess making the fluid level deeper
increases the lift on the float. Is that true? It increases the
fluid pressure, but I'm still not sure it increases lift on something
that floats, that was already entirely under the fluid level. ??

And I forgot that there would be a proper level line embossed in the
plastic. It was daytime but it was still in the shadow and I could
have found that with a flashlight. But it seems it's good to ignore
that level when you need to.

On 06/28/2015 12:58 AM, micky wrote:
OT?

My 2000 Toyota Solara convertible started displaying the Brake light on
the instrument panel a few months ago. It wasn't a parking brake
problem. It would go on for a couple minutes and then go off for an
hour, for example. Sometimes it would go on when I was cruising on the
highway and not using the brake.

The master cylinder was full. Well, it was maybe 1/4" low so I bought
some brake fluid (old brake fluid is supposed to be bad. It absorbs
water, so it's especially bad if you have anti-lock brakes, which iirc
have parts that can rust.)

I couldn't see the opening while pouring, only the front part of the
chamber through the milky plastic, where the level was lower, so I
filled it to the brim and when I put the cap on, it overflowed through
the hole in the cap.

That was 3 weeks ago and the light hasn't been on since. The counter
guy at Pep Boys said the same thing, that his light was on and only one
ounce of fluid to fill it up was enough to turn off the light.

No wires go to the cap and no evidence of anything in the top inch and a
half or more of the master cylinder to turn the brake light on if the
fluid level is low. I don't know why this worked.

Is it a pressure-activated switch? On our '02 Chrysler 300M it's a
mechanical switch: with no pressure on the brake pedal, the spring is
holding it up against the switch, holding the contact open.

Perce

|
| If the cable has stretched, there is an adjustment at the base of the
|

I'll have to check for that. But there's also stiffness
in the spring mechanism to pull the cable back when
released, and the spring in that is a stock part.

| You have a little button that shuts the light off?
|
| As I said, It's not the emergency brake.
|
The light is the same. There's a button (at
least there is in cars I've had) at the base
of the emergency brake cylinder, under the
dashboard. So the brake light goes on when
the emergency brake is on, then the light
goes out when it's released. It's like the button
to turn refrigerator lights on/off.

On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 13:40:49 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

| There is a float switch in the reservoir, and they can be "flakey",
| triggering the brake warning light even with the fluid at the correct
| level.

That could explain the light going
out when he tops it up. Maybe the float
switch is sticking. Now the question is
where the heck is all of his brake fluid
going to?

Well, for starters, check the front brake pads. When the pads get worn
down to the "limit" the fluid level should be about low enough to turn
on the light. Replacing the pads and pushing the pistons back should
restore the fluid level. Good idea to drain and flush the fluid at
this time as fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) and moisture will
settle to the lower parts of the system, corroding the calipers and
pistons.

He could also have a leak in the master cyl, steel lines, flex lines,
calipers, or rear cyls.

On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 15:16:13 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 06/28/2015 12:58 AM, micky wrote:
OT?

My 2000 Toyota Solara convertible started displaying the Brake light on
the instrument panel a few months ago. It wasn't a parking brake
problem. It would go on for a couple minutes and then go off for an
hour, for example. Sometimes it would go on when I was cruising on the
highway and not using the brake.

The master cylinder was full. Well, it was maybe 1/4" low so I bought
some brake fluid (old brake fluid is supposed to be bad. It absorbs
water, so it's especially bad if you have anti-lock brakes, which iirc
have parts that can rust.)

I couldn't see the opening while pouring, only the front part of the
chamber through the milky plastic, where the level was lower, so I
filled it to the brim and when I put the cap on, it overflowed through
the hole in the cap.

That was 3 weeks ago and the light hasn't been on since. The counter
guy at Pep Boys said the same thing, that his light was on and only one
ounce of fluid to fill it up was enough to turn off the light.

No wires go to the cap and no evidence of anything in the top inch and a
half or more of the master cylinder to turn the brake light on if the
fluid level is low. I don't know why this worked.

Is it a pressure-activated switch? On our '02 Chrysler 300M it's a
mechanical switch: with no pressure on the brake pedal, the spring is
holding it up against the switch, holding the contact open.

Perce
Most of today's cars have a switch on the pedal linkage that turns
on the brake lights on the rear of the car - but that's not what the
OP was talking about. The brake system warning light on the dash can
be triggered by low fluid, or on some vehicles, the loss of pressure
on one side of the system - or a failure in the ABS system.

On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 16:09:47 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

|
| If the cable has stretched, there is an adjustment at the base of the
|

I'll have to check for that. But there's also stiffness
in the spring mechanism to pull the cable back when
released, and the spring in that is a stock part.

| You have a little button that shuts the light off?
|
| As I said, It's not the emergency brake.
|
The light is the same. There's a button (at
least there is in cars I've had) at the base
of the emergency brake cylinder, under the
dashboard. So the brake light goes on when
the emergency brake is on, then the light
goes out when it's released. It's like the button
to turn refrigerator lights on/off.

On many vehicles there is a park light engaged light, a brake system
failure light, and an ABS activity light which also acts as an ABS
failure light.

On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 16:09:47 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

|
| If the cable has stretched, there is an adjustment at the base of the
|

I'll have to check for that. But there's also stiffness
in the spring mechanism to pull the cable back when
released, and the spring in that is a stock part.

If the spring isn't strong enough, spray some lubricant down the brake
cable. A lot I guess, since it the cable goes all the way to the
wheels. Although come to think of it, it's only in a sheeth part of
the way. But that would mean there are other places, curves and bends,
where there is more cable within sheeth. Any of it could be the place
where the cable is binding. I think it's more likely the cable is
binding than that the spring is weak. In my limited but not
non-existent experience, most springs go 50 or 100 years or more without
losing their springiness.

Dirt is one of the biggest problems in machinery and electronics too.

| You have a little button that shuts the light off?
|
| As I said, It's not the emergency brake.
|
The light is the same. There's a button (at

Right. That's why I had to check the parking brake. In fact I checked
it first, and when the light was otherwise off, I could see at what
point the light turned on an off.

least there is in cars I've had) at the base
of the emergency brake cylinder, under the
dashboard. So the brake light goes on when
the emergency brake is on, then the light
goes out when it's released. It's like the button
to turn refrigerator lights on/off.

Oh, okay. I never found the switch for my parking brake, but I didn't
have to because when the light was otherwise off, I coudl move the brake
lever back and forth and see at what point the light turned on and off.
And there was enough leeway to know for sure that brake wasn't the
problem.

| If the spring isn't strong enough, spray some lubricant down the brake
| cable. A lot I guess, since it the cable goes all the way to the
| wheels. Although come to think of it, it's only in a sheeth part of
| the way. But that would mean there are other places, curves and bends,
| where there is more cable within sheeth. Any of it could be the place
| where the cable is binding. I think it's more likely the cable is
| binding than that the spring is weak.

No, it's the spring. It's right there in plain sight.
There's no sheath. And sometimes the arm sticks.
The cable connects to an arm about halfway back.
Another cable connects
there and goes to the brake. When the brake cable
is released, a spring connected to the arm causes
it to be pulled toward the back in order to keep
it snug. It's that spring design that accounts for
the emergancy brake handle retracting when it's
released.

I've tried household oil on the spring. It seems
to help. But the whole assembly has rusted somewhat.
Not really a big deal, which is why I haven't quite got
around to *really* dealing with it.

On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 15:07:07 -0400, micky
wrote:


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...HerhoCglHw_wcB
This one has the hook going the wrong direction!! And the reviews are
interesting. For some, it bent.

I want to recommend the reviews on this one again.

On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 17:59:59 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:


| If the spring isn't strong enough, spray some lubricant down the brake
| cable. A lot I guess, since it the cable goes all the way to the
| wheels. Although come to think of it, it's only in a sheeth part of
| the way. But that would mean there are other places, curves and bends,
| where there is more cable within sheeth. Any of it could be the place
| where the cable is binding. I think it's more likely the cable is
| binding than that the spring is weak.

No, it's the spring. It's right there in plain sight.
There's no sheath. And sometimes the arm sticks.

I guess the lesson for both of us in this thread is that the person t
here likely knows more about the problem than some other guy reading.
:-)


The cable connects to an arm about halfway back.
Another cable connects
there and goes to the brake. When the brake cable
is released, a spring connected to the arm causes
it to be pulled toward the back in order to keep
it snug. It's that spring design that accounts for
the emergancy brake handle retracting when it's
released.

I've tried household oil on the spring. It seems
to help. But the whole assembly has rusted somewhat.
Not really a big deal, which is why I haven't quite got
around to *really* dealing with it.