doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

Have you cleaned the connections on the battery with either a post
cleaner or emery cloth? Is the ground connection good on the frame or
wherever? How are all the connections from the battery to the starter?
Can you use jumper cables from your car to turn the starter over
directly? Could it be a problem with one of the safety switches?
These might seem like silly questions but it's easy to overlook
stuff like this. Not a mechanic but I trouble shoot electrical
equipment and many times it's the simpler seemingly obvious stuff
causing the problem.

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 5:24:29 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

how did you conclude the battery is fine?

have you load tested the battery? since its spends most of its life just sitting around, the plates are likely sulphated

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 6:48:08 AM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

Have you cleaned the connections on the battery with either a post
cleaner or emery cloth? Is the ground connection good on the frame or
wherever? How are all the connections from the battery to the starter?
Can you use jumper cables from your car to turn the starter over
directly? Could it be a problem with one of the safety switches?
These might seem like silly questions but it's easy to overlook
stuff like this. Not a mechanic but I trouble shoot electrical
equipment and many times it's the simpler seemingly obvious stuff
causing the problem.

A simple test to bypass most of that is to use a car jumper
cable between the starter terminal and battery. Connect one
end to the battery, touch the other firmly to the starter lug.
You could also have a test meter jumpered up, measuring the
voltage at the starter while doing the test. If you have 10V
or better while doing the test and it won't crank, then you can
rule out all the upstream stuff.

I had a neighbor who had a similar problem. We went through
similar tests, and had it pegged as a bad starter. He called
Sears to come fix it, turned out according to them, it needed
a valve adjustment..... I didn't get to talk to the mechanic,
but the only angle I can figure is that they have a compression
release to make starting easier and maybe that needed adjustment?
IDK, but in the future, I will add removing the spark plug and
trying to crank it as a test.

Frank,.

What's the voltage on the battery? What's the voltage on each side of the
solenoid when you turn the key to start? What's the voltage at the starter
lug when you turn the key to start?
3 yo mower shouldn't have any problems.

Dave M.

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 9:02:51 AM UTC-4, David L. Martel wrote:
Frank,.

What's the voltage on the battery? What's the voltage on each side of the
solenoid when you turn the key to start? What's the voltage at the starter
lug when you turn the key to start?
3 yo mower shouldn't have any problems.

Dave M.

mower batteries often last only a few years, sitting around dischaged is tough on them. my mom had a sears rider, average battery life 3 years, till i put the battery on a trickle charger in the winter.

unused from end of october till may kills batteries

"Frank Thompson" wrote in message
...
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is
most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking
sound occurs


Did you check the dilythium crystal chamber?

On Sun, 10 May 2015 07:27:03 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 9:02:51 AM UTC-4, David L. Martel wrote:
Frank,.

What's the voltage on the battery? What's the voltage on each side of the
solenoid when you turn the key to start? What's the voltage at the starter
lug when you turn the key to start?
3 yo mower shouldn't have any problems.

Dave M.

mower batteries often last only a few years, sitting around dischaged is tough on them. my mom had a sears rider, average battery life 3 years, till i put the battery on a trickle charger in the winter.

unused from end of october till may kills batteries

Agree with Bob. Had the same experience as the OP on a riding mower.
Could jump start with cables, checked & cleaned ground, solenoid and
starter cables. The battery @ age ~3 had spark across the battery
post, but not enough to crank the engine (18HP ??)

New and better battery did the trick.
--
"I am the infidel your Imam warned you about." Jan Morgan, Gun
Cave Indoor Firing Range operator.

On Sun, 10 May 2015 09:02:47 -0400, "David L. Martel"
wrote:

3 yo mower shouldn't have any problems.

True; ordinarily, but some mower batteries are not up to par. At ~3
years I had to replace one with a better quality battery. OEM battery
seemed a poor value.
--
"I am the infidel your Imam warned you about." Jan Morgan, Gun
Cave Indoor Firing Range operator.

Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

You missed battery on the list, next cables, battery to starter, battery
to ground. Battery may look good but unless you check it
with hydrometer or load test..... Try jump start.

On Sun, 10 May 2015 02:24:25 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs
Clicking solenoid with fully charged battery is MOST likely to be
stuck brushes in the starter. Then bad connections, bad solenoid, or
bad battery (although "fully charged" it could have a bad intercell
link connection)

"Oren" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 10 May 2015 09:02:47 -0400, "David L. Martel"
wrote:

3 yo mower shouldn't have any problems.

True; ordinarily, but some mower batteries are not up to par. At ~3
years I had to replace one with a better quality battery. OEM battery
seemed a poor value.
--

It worked the opposit for a John Deere riding mower I had. The battery was
the best thing about it. Used it for about 7 years and the transaxel got
where it would not pull up much of a hill. It still had the origional
battery in it. Found out on that mower that if you got over 400 hours on
the transaxel you were doing good.

On 5/10/15 5:24 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

A charged battery may not perform well with a starter load.

I just broke down and bought me a new multimeter because old meters can
get a little flaky. With a couple of alligator-clip jumpers so I can
lay the meter on the ground, it's easy to see how a battery performs
under a starting load. (Just don't short the clips.) Mine provides
10.95V at the battery terminals and 10.53 at the starting motor.

I think you're normally looking for 10V at the starter although it may
crank with less.

If I substituted a precision power resistor, maybe 20 ohms, in place of
the starter, I could determine the resistance between the battery and
the starter. Knowing I was losing 0.42V, I could determine how much
current the starter was drawing.

Darn, why don't I look for a resistor! This is fun!

On 5/10/2015 5:24 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs


You are allowed to post questions in
addition to your (above) statements.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 5/10/2015 6:48 AM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which
is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking
sound occurs

Have you cleaned the connections on the battery with either a post
cleaner or emery cloth? Is the ground connection good on the frame or
wherever? How are all the connections from the battery to the starter?
Can you use jumper cables from your car to turn the starter over
directly? Could it be a problem with one of the safety switches?
These might seem like silly questions but it's easy to overlook
stuff like this. Not a mechanic but I trouble shoot electrical
equipment and many times it's the simpler seemingly obvious stuff
causing the problem.


Hang on here, chief. He didn't ask for any advice,
he just told us he was troubleshooting.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 5/10/2015 12:16 PM, Oren wrote:
Agree with Bob. Had the same experience as the OP on a riding mower.
Could jump start with cables, checked & cleaned ground, solenoid and
starter cables. The battery @ age ~3 had spark across the battery
post, but not enough to crank the engine (18HP ??)

New and better battery did the trick.


Remember, the OP didn't ask for any advice.
Just said he was troubleshooting.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 5/10/15 6:18 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 5/10/2015 5:24 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which
is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems?
ignition switch?
solenoid?
starter?

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking
sound occurs


You are allowed to post questions in
addition to your (above) statements.

Why I see a whole mess of questions.
I had to read between the lines to see the real question. "How can I
use a meter and jumpers to see if there is adequate voltage at the starter?"

On 5/10/2015 6:37 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 5/10/15 6:18 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 5/10/2015 5:24 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which
is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems?
ignition switch?
solenoid?
starter?

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking
sound occurs


You are allowed to post questions in
addition to your (above) statements.

Why I see a whole mess of questions.
I had to read between the lines to see the real question. "How can I
use a meter and jumpers to see if there is adequate voltage at the
starter?"

You're right. Today hasn't been good to me,
I stand corrected. Well, I sit corrected.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Thank all of you for your very sensible suggestions. I have followed most of them. I made an error in reporting clicking; it was only a single click at the solenoid. Also I didn't report that when running the the engine kept running when ignition switch was turned to off position and key removed. The mower has not been used since last fall.

After taking your most of your suggestions the following info has come to light.

Charger is a new Shumacher costing about $95.
I set it on 2 amps. When the green indicator light to show when it was fully charged came on after several hours my VOM meter show only 10.4 volts.. This was from + terminal to ground & not under load.

When I bypassed most of stuff by connecting 10 gauge hot wire from battery to starter the starter did spin or turn but did not engage engine. I'm not sure if I had a good connection on this. When the test took place there was not a notable change in voltage.

Battery is a 12 volt 3 amp battery 3 years old & came on the mower new.

I was unable to test electrolyte because my auto hygrometer glass tube would not fit in the small openings on the cells. One cell had the pleated material dark in color as opposed to white in the others. The electrolyte appeared to be halfway between the low level mark on the outside and the high level mark on all cells.

Right now my main suspects are keyed ignition and the battery.

Frank,

A "fully" charged battery will have about 12.7v. You have 10v. Sounds
like a really dead battery. So get out your jumper cables and see if it
starts when jumped. If it does then get a new battery
Doubt that it's the ignition switch.

Dave M.

On 5/11/15 8:41 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Frank,

A "fully" charged battery will have about 12.7v. You have 10v.


Aw, I missed that! I'll see if there's a remedial reading class at the
local college.

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 8:41:32 AM UTC-4, David L. Martel wrote:
Frank,

A "fully" charged battery will have about 12.7v. You have 10v. Sounds
like a really dead battery. So get out your jumper cables and see if it
starts when jumped. If it does then get a new battery
Doubt that it's the ignition switch.

Dave M.

+1
Not just dead, but since he just charged it, it's clearly a bad
battery.

Also, using 10g wire to try to directly power the starter is a
bad idea. Look at the size of the existing cables. I suggested
using battery jumper cables for that test.

On Mon, 11 May 2015 02:56:08 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

Thank all of you for your very sensible suggestions. I have followed most of them. I made an error in reporting clicking; it was only a single click at the solenoid. Also I didn't report that when running the the engine kept running when ignition switch was turned to off position and key removed. The mower has not been used since last fall.

After taking your most of your suggestions the following info has come to light.

Charger is a new Shumacher costing about $95.
I set it on 2 amps. When the green indicator light to show when it was fully charged came on after several hours my VOM meter show only 10.4 volts. This was from + terminal to ground & not under load.

When I bypassed most of stuff by connecting 10 gauge hot wire from battery to starter the starter did spin or turn but did not engage engine. I'm not sure if I had a good connection on this. When the test took place there was not a notable change in voltage.

Battery is a 12 volt 3 amp battery 3 years old & came on the mower new.

I was unable to test electrolyte because my auto hygrometer glass tube would not fit in the small openings on the cells. One cell had the pleated material dark in color as opposed to white in the others. The electrolyte appeared to be halfway between the low level mark on the outside and the high level mark on all cells.

Right now my main suspects are keyed ignition and the battery.
10.4 volts tells the whole story - the battery is FUBAR. An inertia
drive starter doesn't start "hard " enough on 10 volts to pull in the
drive.
The engine not shutting off with the key inricates your magneto "P"
lead is not being grounded by the awitch. Wire disconnected, bad
ground, or bad switch in roughly that order of likelihood.

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 2:04:08 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 02:56:08 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

The engine not shutting off with the key inricates your magneto "P"
lead is not being grounded by the awitch. Wire disconnected, bad
ground, or bad switch in roughly that order of likelihood.

Not sure what you mean by the "P" lead.

On Tue, 12 May 2015 02:40:55 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

On Monday, May 11, 2015 at 2:04:08 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 02:56:08 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

The engine not shutting off with the key inricates your magneto "P"
lead is not being grounded by the awitch. Wire disconnected, bad
ground, or bad switch in roughly that order of likelihood.

Not sure what you mean by the "P" lead.
That is the only lead coming off the magneto (not to be confused with
charging or lighting coils) of the engine and is grounded to shut off
the engine. I guess originally the "P" was for "primary" as it is also
possible to short the high voltage or "secondary" lead to ground to
stop the engine.

Comments led me to replace the battery & I still have the problem. More testing leads me to think problem is ignition switch. Failed in a couple of the tests suggested by repair book. Now my problem is finding a replacement. Corporate takeovers have changed model numbers and part numbers. It is a Snapper Brush & Field Mower with Briggs & Stratton engine. Seems like Snapper and Murray merged. Then Briggs & Stratton took them over. Confusion on me as to is the switch an engine part or a brush cutter part.
I have local dealers for both looking into this. Both cautioned to not to replace part until I was certain I have the correct ones... otherwise damage could occur. Part# doesn't show on their searches.

wrote:
On Mon, 11 May 2015 02:56:08 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

The engine not shutting off with the key inricates your magneto "P"
lead is not being grounded by the awitch. Wire disconnected, bad
ground, or bad switch in roughly that order of likelihood.

Not sure what you mean by the "P" lead.
That is the only lead coming off the magneto (not to be confused with
charging or lighting coils) of the engine and is grounded to shut off
the engine. I guess originally the "P" was for "primary" as it is also
possible to short the high voltage or "secondary" lead to ground to
stop the engine.

This info led me to identify that this is one of the problems. One of hurdles is colors in owners manual wiring diagram are for a Kawasaki engine rather than Briggs Stratton.

On 5/13/2015 6:19 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:

Comments led me to replace the battery & I still
have the problem. More testing leads me to think
problem is ignition switch. Failed in a couple of
the tests suggested by repair book. Now my problem
is finding a replacement. Corporate takeovers have
changed model numbers and part numbers. It is a
Snapper Brush & Field Mower with Briggs & Stratton
engine. Seems like Snapper and Murray merged.
Then Briggs & Stratton took them over. Confusion on
me as to is the switch an engine part or a brush cutter part.
I have local dealers for both looking into this. Both
cautioned to not to replace part until I was certain I have
the correct ones... otherwise damage could occur.
Part# doesn't show on their searches.


Wonder if the existing part has some numbers?

Do you have owners manual with exploded parts?

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 5:24:29 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

good luck on getting parts. might be better off to install a non keywed switch or relay

On Wednesday, May 13, 2015 at 7:24:52 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 5/13/2015 6:19 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:

Comments led me to replace the battery & I still
have the problem. More testing leads me to think
problem is ignition switch. Failed in a couple of
the tests suggested by repair book. Now my problem
is finding a replacement. Corporate takeovers have
changed model numbers and part numbers. It is a
Snapper Brush & Field Mower with Briggs & Stratton
engine. Seems like Snapper and Murray merged.
Then Briggs & Stratton took them over. Confusion on
me as to is the switch an engine part or a brush cutter part.
I have local dealers for both looking into this. Both
cautioned to not to replace part until I was certain I have
the correct ones... otherwise damage could occur.
Part# doesn't show on their searches.


Wonder if the existing part has some numbers?

Do you have owners manual with exploded parts?

That is the source for my part numbers

On Wednesday, May 13, 2015 at 7:40:40 AM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 5:24:29 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

good luck on getting parts. might be better off to install a non keywed switch or relay

would prefer that if I knew it would not damage electric system

On Wednesday, May 13, 2015 at 6:19:24 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
Comments led me to replace the battery & I still have the problem. More testing leads me to think problem is ignition switch. Failed in a couple of the tests suggested by repair book. Now my problem is finding a replacement. Corporate takeovers have changed model numbers and part numbers. It is a Snapper Brush & Field Mower with Briggs & Stratton engine. Seems like Snapper and Murray merged. Then Briggs & Stratton took them over. Confusion on me as to is the switch an engine part or a brush cutter part.
I have local dealers for both looking into this. Both cautioned to not to replace part until I was certain I have the correct ones... otherwise damage could occur. Part# doesn't show on their searches.

If it's the ignition switch then the simple test is will the
starter crank properly when you apply 12V to to starter solenoid
directly, bypassing the switch and safety interlock switches?

On Wed, 13 May 2015 03:19:20 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:


Comments led me to replace the battery & I still have the problem. More testing leads me to think problem is ignition switch. Failed in a couple of the tests suggested by repair book. Now my problem is finding a replacement. Corporate takeovers have changed model numbers and part numbers. It is a Snapper Brush & Field Mower with Briggs & Stratton engine. Seems like Snapper and Murray merged. Then Briggs & Stratton took them over. Confusion on me as to is the switch an engine part or a brush cutter part.
I have local dealers for both looking into this. Both cautioned to not to replace part until I was certain I have the correct ones... otherwise damage could occur. Part# doesn't show on their searches.

Remove the ignition "P" lead from the switch. It only needs to be
connected to shut off the engine. If it runs fine with the wire
disconnected you have a bad switch. You need a switch that closes to
shut off, not one that opens - so an automoitive style ignition switch
will not work. You need a "magneto" switch
An acs a-510-2 from Aircraft Spruce would do the job but pretty pricy
at $124.50 US!!. Virtually any small engine keyed ignition swotch
should do the job . Is it a 6 terminal or 7 terminal switch??? Briggs
6 terminal Part Number: 092377MA and 7 terminal Part Number: 092556MA
are about $16 (key extra - your old key will likely work as they are
not tumbler locks)

On Wed, 13 May 2015 05:33:32 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 13, 2015 at 7:40:40 AM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 5:24:29 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

good luck on getting parts. might be better off to install a non keywed switch or relay

would prefer that if I knew it would not damage electric system


Forget my statement about the "P" lead. The Briggs electric start is
an inertia drive starter with a solenoid switch. Grab your booster
cables and "jump" the solenoid. If the starter works you know the
problem is in the switch, solenoid, or wiring. If it does not, it is
battery, cables, or starter.

If it starts jumping the solenoid, use a small jumper wire from the
battery side of the solenoid to the "control" terminal of the
solenoid. This is the wire that goes to the ignition switch. If
jumping here (battery power direct to solenoid coil) makes it work it
is wiring or switch.

If neither works, use booster cables from battery positive to starter
lug, and try. If it still does not work jump from battery negative to
engine ground (starter mounting bolt works good). If it still does not
start it is either the battery or the starter. Jump from your car
battery. If it starts, your battery is FUBAR.. Remove battery and put
jumpoer cables from car to battery cable ends. If it starts then, you
know it is JUST the bad battery.. If the battery is hooked up
backwards the starter will spin but will not engage and crank the
engine because it is running backwards.

On 5/13/15 6:19 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
More testing leads me to think problem is ignition switch. Failed in
a couple of the tests suggested by repair book.

What problem are you still having?

A Snapper switch should be easy to check with a VOM. If you unplug the
connector, I believe Snapper switches are marked M for magneto and G for
ground. The meter should show an open with the key in the run position
and continuity in the off position.

I believe Snapper switches use B for battery and S for solenoid. They
should show continuity with the key in the start position and open
otherwise.

If it looks bad, a squirt may fix it. I had intermittent trouble
cranking my car engine. My meter showed the problem was in the switch
contacts. Squirting contact cleaner in there fixed it temporarily.
Squirting WD-40 in there fixed it permanently.

Where I am now (yesterday) is that I replaced the battery. Battery store verified old battery was no good. I still am having the same problem except I can start engine by shorting across two main leads to solenoid. Once started it runs fine. At least I don't have to had crank that 16 HP engine. I have ordered
new ignition switch from Snapper. That was much trouble because the mergers & take overs (Snapper, Murray, and Briggs-Stratton) affected part number..

On Wednesday, May 13, 2015 at 7:04:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 13 May 2015 05:33:32 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 13, 2015 at 7:40:40 AM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 5:24:29 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
doing trouble shooting on 3 yo lightly used keyed brush mower.. which is most likely and which is most unlikely candidate for problems.
ignition switch
solenoid
starter

Battery is fully charged & when key is turned to start only a clicking sound occurs

good luck on getting parts. might be better off to install a non keywed switch or relay

would prefer that if I knew it would not damage electric system


Forget my statement about the "P" lead. The Briggs electric start is
an inertia drive starter with a solenoid switch. Grab your booster
cables and "jump" the solenoid. If the starter works you know the
problem is in the switch, solenoid, or wiring. If it does not, it is
battery, cables, or starter.

If it starts jumping the solenoid, use a small jumper wire from the
battery side of the solenoid to the "control" terminal of the
solenoid. This is the wire that goes to the ignition switch. If
jumping here (battery power direct to solenoid coil) makes it work it
is wiring or switch.

If neither works, use booster cables from battery positive to starter
lug, and try. If it still does not work jump from battery negative to
engine ground (starter mounting bolt works good). If it still does not
start it is either the battery or the starter. Jump from your car
battery. If it starts, your battery is FUBAR.. Remove battery and put
jumpoer cables from car to battery cable ends. If it starts then, you
know it is JUST the bad battery.. If the battery is hooked up
backwards the starter will spin but will not engage and crank the
engine because it is running backwards.

Welcome to the club. I suggested the direct test, using battery
cables, in my first post, days ago. I did hear something about him
trying to run the starter with 10 gauge wire.....

On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 6:03:56 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
Where I am now (yesterday) is that I replaced the battery. Battery store verified old battery was no good. I still am having the same problem except I can start engine by shorting across two main leads to solenoid. Once started it runs fine. At least I don't have to had crank that 16 HP engine. I have ordered
new ignition switch from Snapper. That was much trouble because the mergers & take overs (Snapper, Murray, and Briggs-Stratton) affected part number.

So, bypassing the solenoid and applying 12V to the starter, it works.
Next question is, when you turn the start switch, do you have 12V on
the small wire going to the solenoid? Solenoid clicking? If no 12V,
then it's ignition switch, interlock switches, or wiring. If you
have 12V, then the solenoid is bad.

Is there 12V on the wire at the ignition switch when in the crank
position? If no, then it's the ignition switch. If yes, then it's
an interlock switch or the wiring.