I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections. Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times -- didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16 inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the
software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone
else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that
plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of
them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that
board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections.
Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times --
didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good
1/16 inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it
back in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

How many people clean the heatsinks and fans in their computers? Not many I bet.
I've seen some REALLY cruddy computers. My current one has a 5" fan blowing air
in the front, with a 1/4" foam filter in front of it which I can easily remove
and vacuum. That make a huge difference in cleanliness of internal components.

And, It keeps everything really cool and quiet, because the fan only need to run
very slowly.

If I hear the processor fan speeding up - it's time to clean the filter.

On 4/28/2015 1:42 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections. Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times -- didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16 inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

I've got a couple USB ports that are not reliable.
Tried a blast of dielectric grease, figure it works
for spark plugs. Not sure it helped, but at least
I did "some thing".

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tuesday, April 28, 2015 at 6:05:53 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've got a couple USB ports that are not reliable.
Tried a blast of dielectric grease, figure it works
for spark plugs. Not sure it helped, but at least
I did "some thing".

The grease collects dust and a "dielectric" makes it non-conductive! Nice!

On 04/28/2015 12:42 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections. Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times -- didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16 inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.





Dust should always be cleaned off as it will retain heat...however
unless you are in a machine shop where there would be metallic dust,,
the dust in your home is non-conductive.


The problem more than likely was a poor connection due to tarnish.


When something like that happens on a machine I'm working on...typically
the video card or RAM


I remove the component and clean the contacts with a strip of white
paper. Once I see no more residue on the paper, I reinsert the component
and it usually works fine. I also make sure there is no dust in the
slot, by giving it a short blast of compressed air.

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections. Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times -- didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16 inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

Just a common sense.

On 4/28/15 10:13 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the
software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone
else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that
plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of
them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that
board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections.
Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times --
didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16
inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back
in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

Just a common sense.

I don't understand. Why didn't you see the dust when you pulled the
board out a few times?

I wonder if it was capacitive coupling between two legs of an IC,
through the dielectric constant of the dust.

J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 10:13 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the
software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone
else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that
plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of
them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that
board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections.
Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times --
didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16
inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back
in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

Just a common sense.

I don't understand. Why didn't you see the dust when you pulled the
board out a few times?

I wonder if it was capacitive coupling between two legs of an IC,
through the dielectric constant of the dust.


I believe dust creates heat build up causing possible over heating.
Excess heat makes things expand. No. 1 enemy for electronics comp[onet
is too much heat.

On 4/28/15 12:37 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 10:13 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the
software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone
else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that
plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of
them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that
board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections.
Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times --
didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16
inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back
in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

Just a common sense.

I don't understand. Why didn't you see the dust when you pulled the
board out a few times?

I wonder if it was capacitive coupling between two legs of an IC,
through the dielectric constant of the dust.


I believe dust creates heat build up causing possible over heating.
Excess heat makes things expand. No. 1 enemy for electronics comp[onet
is too much heat.

I don't suppose there's much mass on a USB board. I figured if it was
heat, it would have resumed working when he shut the power off long
enough to unplug and replace the board a few times.

On Mon, 27 Apr 2015 22:42:53 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone else interested...

In my days, never had a USB cable go bad. Went through the routines
to fix a printer for my bride. After some gymnastics I replaced the
USB/Printer cable.

$4 cable for 6 feet

J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 12:37 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 10:13 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the
software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone
else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that
plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of
them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that
board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections.
Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times --
didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16
inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back
in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

Just a common sense.

I don't understand. Why didn't you see the dust when you pulled the
board out a few times?

I wonder if it was capacitive coupling between two legs of an IC,
through the dielectric constant of the dust.


I believe dust creates heat build up causing possible over heating.
Excess heat makes things expand. No. 1 enemy for electronics comp[onet
is too much heat.

I don't suppose there's much mass on a USB board. I figured if it was
heat, it would have resumed working when he shut the power off long
enough to unplug and replace the board a few times.

Most of chips work on standard basic 5V DC. Between pins dust won't have
much effect electrically. If it were HV then maybe, arcing or what you
mentioned. PCI slots on PC motherboard can tilt when hold down screw is
tightened causing poor socket contacts. Some times have to reshape guide
plate on the board for better seating. Spent almost half a century in
the field. Repaired/modified tons of various logic
board on test jig. Now being retired, my pastime is fixing friend's
neighbor's sick any thing electronics. Only charging for parts I don't
have when needed. Also son's and his buddy's guitar amps. When I went
to work after school there were still many vacuum tubes in use. I am
class of '60 EE. Lived thru electronics evolution(vacuum tubes to nano
tech), LOL!

Per Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney:
So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16 inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back in and working again.

This finally dawned on me when troubleshooting my #1 daughter's PC.

She breeds and raises Bernese Mountain Dogs.... long hair and lots of
it.

Moving the PC from the floor to a table seems to have helped
significantly, but hair/dust buildup is always the first thing I look
for now.
--
Pete Cresswell

Oren wrote:
On Mon, 27 Apr 2015 22:42:53 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone else interested...

In my days, never had a USB cable go bad. Went through the routines
to fix a printer for my bride. After some gymnastics I replaced the
USB/Printer cable.

$4 cable for 6 feet

Now new printers can run on WiFi.
At home keeping one Inkjet and color
laser printer both on WiFi. Inkjet is
to print pictures only.

Tony Hwang writes:
J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 12:37 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 10:13 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the
software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone
else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that
plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of
them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that
board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections.
Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times --
didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16
inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back
in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

Just a common sense.

I don't understand. Why didn't you see the dust when you pulled the
board out a few times?

I wonder if it was capacitive coupling between two legs of an IC,
through the dielectric constant of the dust.


I believe dust creates heat build up causing possible over heating.
Excess heat makes things expand. No. 1 enemy for electronics comp[onet
is too much heat.

I don't suppose there's much mass on a USB board. I figured if it was
heat, it would have resumed working when he shut the power off long
enough to unplug and replace the board a few times.

USB chips don't dissipate significant heat, even under load. Not
like a CPU, which can dissipate upwards of 160 watts or more depending
on the clockspeed and SKU.


Most of chips work on standard basic 5V DC.

Where have you been for the last decade? Think 0.8-1.5 volts
for most modern chips (particularly CPUs). Takes less energy
to switch .8 v than 5.0vdc and you can do it faster.

Now being retired, my pastime is fixing friend's

Ah, that's where.

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney:
So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16 inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back in and working again.

Brushed off? Beware of static discharge which can damage something
without even knowing it. I always wear anti static strap on my wrist
and I'd not brush anything, just vacuum or use compressed air
spray can. If board is taken out, I put it on anti static mat
which is connected to wrist strap. My old habit.

This finally dawned on me when troubleshooting my #1 daughter's PC.

She breeds and raises Bernese Mountain Dogs.... long hair and lots of
it.

Moving the PC from the floor to a table seems to have helped
significantly, but hair/dust buildup is always the first thing I look
for now.

(Scott Lurndal) wrote:
Tony Hwang writes:
J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 12:37 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 10:13 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the
software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for anyone
else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called -- that
plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have all of
them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that
board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad connections.
Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times --
didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16
inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back
in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

Just a common sense.

I don't understand. Why didn't you see the dust when you pulled the
board out a few times?

I wonder if it was capacitive coupling between two legs of an IC,
through the dielectric constant of the dust.


I believe dust creates heat build up causing possible over heating.
Excess heat makes things expand. No. 1 enemy for electronics comp[onet
is too much heat.

I don't suppose there's much mass on a USB board. I figured if it was
heat, it would have resumed working when he shut the power off long
enough to unplug and replace the board a few times.

USB chips don't dissipate significant heat, even under load. Not
like a CPU, which can dissipate upwards of 160 watts or more depending
on the clockspeed and SKU.


Most of chips work on standard basic 5V DC.

Where have you been for the last decade? Think 0.8-1.5 volts
for most modern chips (particularly CPUs). Takes less energy
to switch .8 v than 5.0vdc and you can do it faster.

Now being retired, my pastime is fixing friend's

Ah, that's where.

Tony Hwang wrote:
(Scott Lurndal) wrote:
Tony Hwang writes:
J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 12:37 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
J Burns wrote:
On 4/28/15 10:13 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I finally learned to check these first before jumping into the
software or running to the computer store. A good lesson for
anyone
else interested...

I have a board in the PC -- don't remember what it's called --
that
plugs into mother board and give me 6 more USB ports. I have
all of
them being used. Yesterday, all the USB devices connected to that
board stopped working. Figured it was the board or bad
connections.
Shut it down and tried pulling it out and back in a few times --
didn't help. So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a
good 1/16
inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it
back
in and working again.

Note to self -- try the simple first, dummy.

Just a common sense.

I don't understand. Why didn't you see the dust when you pulled the
board out a few times?

I wonder if it was capacitive coupling between two legs of an IC,
through the dielectric constant of the dust.


I believe dust creates heat build up causing possible over heating.
Excess heat makes things expand. No. 1 enemy for electronics comp[onet
is too much heat.

I don't suppose there's much mass on a USB board. I figured if it was
heat, it would have resumed working when he shut the power off long
enough to unplug and replace the board a few times.

USB chips don't dissipate significant heat, even under load. Not
like a CPU, which can dissipate upwards of 160 watts or more depending
on the clockspeed and SKU.


Most of chips work on standard basic 5V DC.

Where have you been for the last decade? Think 0.8-1.5 volts
for most modern chips (particularly CPUs). Takes less energy
to switch .8 v than 5.0vdc and you can do it faster.

Reduction in voltage comes from mainly much higher density circuit.
Every thing is SMALL and CLOSE each other.(Nano tech.) How many
x-sistors in a Quad core i7 latest gen. CPU?


Now being retired, my pastime is fixing friend's

Ah, that's where.

On 4/28/15 4:14 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Tony Hwang writes:
J Burns wrote:

I believe dust creates heat build up causing possible over heating.
Excess heat makes things expand. No. 1 enemy for electronics comp[onet
is too much heat.

I don't suppose there's much mass on a USB board. I figured if it was
heat, it would have resumed working when he shut the power off long
enough to unplug and replace the board a few times.

USB chips don't dissipate significant heat, even under load. Not
like a CPU, which can dissipate upwards of 160 watts or more depending
on the clockspeed and SKU.


Stray capacitance wasn't evident with a VOM. It was with a VTVM, an
oscilloscope, or a DMM. The lead of a DMM may be nowhere near a
conductor with 60Hz, but it can pick up several volts. The unshielded
part of a scope lead is much shorter, but it, too, will pick up 60Hz
from stray capacitance.

Impedances in modern circuits can be much higher than the input of a DMM
or a scope. Distances can be very close and frequencies a lot higher
than 60Hz. In putting together my own circuits, I've had to add
capacitors because of the unforeseen effects of stray capacitance.

If I got moisture in a digital watch, I wouldn't expect it to work. The
conductivity of distilled water is 5 microsiemens/meter. Seawater is a
million times higher. If distilled water stopped a watch, I'd suspect
capacitive coupling. The dielectric constant of water is 80 times
higher than air.

I don't know the dielectric constant of household dust, but I imagine it
could be a lot higher than air if it absorbed humidity. Maybe he OP had
trouble on that day because the humidity in the room was a bit higher
than it had been.

On 4/28/15 4:14 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney:
So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16 inch of
dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back in and
working again.

Brushed off? Beware of static discharge which can damage something
without even knowing it. I always wear anti static strap on my wrist
and I'd not brush anything, just vacuum or use compressed air
spray can. If board is taken out, I put it on anti static mat
which is connected to wrist strap. My old habit.

I've read that where sensitive ICs are produced, tabletops and carpets
must be slightly conductive. If a circuit is on the table, a charge
could come from friction with the table or friction with moving air.

It takes a special vacuum cleaner because moving air can put a charge on
the tip.

I quit using static straps. I figured they weren't foolproof enough for
a fool like me. I avoid opening a case if the humidity is below 60%. I
lay a cotton cloth on my work surface and spray it enough that it feels
damp. The assembly, anything I remove, anything I intend to install, any
tools I will use, and an arm or elbow, stay on that damp cloth.

I don't trust moving air. I use a natural-fiber brush. I dampen it
first so it's slightly limp.

Kind of like working with black gunpowder.

To all you nitpicking wimps, computers ain't that delicate. Just take them outdoors and blow them out with an air compressor. NEVER had a problem. Sheeeeeeesh!

On 4/28/2015 7:52 AM, philo wrote:
I remove the component and clean the contacts with a strip of white
paper. Once I see no more residue on the paper, I reinsert the component
and it usually works fine. I also make sure there is no dust in the
slot, by giving it a short blast of compressed air.

Do you give it a bit of dieelectric grease,
like a good Republican, to help keep the
contacts clean?

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 4/28/2015 4:01 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney:
So I pulled out the bard and saw the top had a good 1/16 inch of dust. Brushed it off good with a dry toothbrush, put it back in and working again.

This finally dawned on me when troubleshooting my #1 daughter's PC.

She breeds and raises Bernese Mountain Dogs.... long hair and lots of
it.

Moving the PC from the floor to a table seems to have helped
significantly, but hair/dust buildup is always the first thing I look
for now.


Doctor: You have the most advanced case of tennis elbow I've ever seen.
Patient: I'm a working man. I have never played a game of tennis in my
life!
Doctor: What do you do for a living?
Patient: I work in a carpet store, demonstrating rug beaters.

On 4/29/2015 4:22 AM, bubba wrote:
To all you nitpicking wimps, computers ain't that delicate. Just take
them outdoors and blow them out with an air compressor. NEVER had a
problem. Sheeeeeeesh!

Did you use anti static air?

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 3:22:55 AM UTC-5, bubba wrote:
To all you nitpicking wimps, computers ain't that delicate. Just take them outdoors and blow them out with an air compressor. NEVER had a problem. Sheeeeeeesh!

I've heard of folks who also believe they can hose their appliances in the tub! Mr. Burns, evidently works in design or on customers' goods...therefore, extreme caution is necessary. I use similar cautions...but on a hobby basis.

On 4/28/2015 7:19 AM, bob_villa wrote:
On Tuesday, April 28, 2015 at 6:05:53 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've got a couple USB ports that are not reliable.
Tried a blast of dielectric grease, figure it works
for spark plugs. Not sure it helped, but at least
I did "some thing".

The grease collects dust and a "dielectric" makes it non-conductive! Nice!

I've worked in the telephone circuit design for 30 years and we always
lube the connectors. This was done mainly for gold to gold contacts as
they can essentially cold weld after many years making it impossible to
remove the board. In the early days it was a very thin wiping of bee's
wax. But, some people in the field took this to mean dunking it in the
solvent dissolved wax. Today they use a very expensive lubricant from
Monsanto which is mixed with contact cleaner for field use. Also, a
disposable pad it used to clean both the board connector and the
backplane connector to which it is plugged into. It leaves a very thin
but effective layer of lubricant. BTW, these are not greasy and don't
collect dirt.

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 8:29:42 AM UTC-5, Art Todesco wrote:
It leaves a very thin
but effective layer of lubricant. BTW, these are not greasy and don't
collect dirt.

....also used as an anti-oxidant (gold won't oxidize but other metals will). Thanks Art!

On 4/29/15 4:22 AM, bubba wrote:
To all you nitpicking wimps, computers ain't that delicate. Just take
them outdoors and blow them out with an air compressor. NEVER had a
problem. Sheeeeeeesh!

I'm with you. We used to fix buggy equipment by letting it soak in a
deep sink with hot water and floor soap. Then rinse. Then bake at 125F
for 24 hours.

On 4/29/2015 7:43 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 4/29/2015 4:22 AM, bubba wrote:
To all you nitpicking wimps, computers ain't that delicate. Just take
them outdoors and blow them out with an air compressor. NEVER had a
problem. Sheeeeeeesh!

Did you use anti static air?

You need to use Monster Products Magnetic Flux Tube® that enhances
internal magnetic fields and Linear Polyethelyne (LPE) dielectric
insulation for reduced static linearization of the laminar air flow
resonator.

Tony Hwang wrote:

Most of chips work on standard basic 5V DC. Between pins dust won't have
much effect electrically. If it were HV then maybe, arcing or what you
mentioned. PCI slots on PC motherboard can tilt when hold down screw is
tightened causing poor socket contacts. Some times have to reshape guide
plate on the board for better seating. Spent almost half a century in
the field. Repaired/modified tons of various logic
board on test jig. Now being retired, my pastime is fixing friend's
neighbor's sick any thing electronics. Only charging for parts I don't
have when needed. Also son's and his buddy's guitar amps. When I went
to work after school there were still many vacuum tubes in use. I am
class of '60 EE. Lived thru electronics evolution(vacuum tubes to nano
tech), LOL!

Is there anything you were taught years ago that would be considered
utter nonsense now? Maybe something thought impossible then but
routine now?

Tony Hwang wrote:

Most of chips work on standard basic 5V DC. Between pins dust won't have
much effect electrically. If it were HV then maybe, arcing or what you
mentioned. PCI slots on PC motherboard can tilt when hold down screw is
tightened causing poor socket contacts. Some times have to reshape guide
plate on the board for better seating. Spent almost half a century in
the field. Repaired/modified tons of various logic
board on test jig. Now being retired, my pastime is fixing friend's
neighbor's sick any thing electronics. Only charging for parts I don't
have when needed. Also son's and his buddy's guitar amps. When I went
to work after school there were still many vacuum tubes in use. I am
class of '60 EE. Lived thru electronics evolution(vacuum tubes to nano
tech), LOL!

It's really great that you are posting here, my friend! I took a few electronics classes in college in the early 70's as free electives (instead of underwater basketweaving, popular at the time) mostly so I could fix my car radio, 8-track, etc.... Instructor was around 75 and wore a small black bow tie - not to be different, just because it had always been his standard dress code. He taught the latest technology, but also a couple of classes on vacuum tubes. What a great course that was.

On 4/29/2015 4:22 AM, bubba wrote:
To all you nitpicking wimps, computers ain't that delicate. Just take
them outdoors and blow them out with an air compressor. NEVER had a
problem. Sheeeeeeesh!

That's true. In this I checked the connections first. All were snug and clean. I pulled them out and gave them the eraser treatment. Board still didn't work until I cleaned off the dust from the back side.

On 4/29/2015 3:13 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 4/29/15 4:22 AM, bubba wrote:
To all you nitpicking wimps, computers ain't that delicate. Just take
them outdoors and blow them out with an air compressor. NEVER had a
problem. Sheeeeeeesh!

I'm with you. We used to fix buggy equipment by letting it soak in a
deep sink with hot water and floor soap. Then rinse. Then bake at 125F
for 24 hours.

We used to scrub it on a wash board. And
then dry it in the hickory smokehose.

However, for computers, the air compressor
sounds right. Be sure to use modulated air.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Per J Burns:
I'm with you. We used to fix buggy equipment by letting it soak in a
deep sink with hot water and floor soap. Then rinse. Then bake at 125F
for 24 hours.

When I serviced crypto equipment in Hawaii, we used to scrub the circuit
boards in a warm solution of Pine-Sol.... scrub brush and all...
--
Pete Cresswell

Stormin Mormon writes:
On 4/29/2015 3:13 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 4/29/15 4:22 AM, bubba wrote:
To all you nitpicking wimps, computers ain't that delicate. Just take
them outdoors and blow them out with an air compressor. NEVER had a
problem. Sheeeeeeesh!

I'm with you. We used to fix buggy equipment by letting it soak in a
deep sink with hot water and floor soap. Then rinse. Then bake at 125F
for 24 hours.

We used to scrub it on a wash board. And
then dry it in the hickory smokehose.

However, for computers, the air compressor
sounds right. Be sure to use modulated air.


Make sure you use dry air. Probably also want
a trap to prevent any oil from the compressor
(or any inline oilers) from coating the
electronics.

On 4/30/15 9:44 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Stormin Mormon writes:
On 4/29/2015 3:13 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 4/29/15 4:22 AM, bubba wrote:
To all you nitpicking wimps, computers ain't that delicate. Just take
them outdoors and blow them out with an air compressor. NEVER had a
problem. Sheeeeeeesh!

I'm with you. We used to fix buggy equipment by letting it soak in a
deep sink with hot water and floor soap. Then rinse. Then bake at 125F
for 24 hours.

We used to scrub it on a wash board. And
then dry it in the hickory smokehose.

However, for computers, the air compressor
sounds right. Be sure to use modulated air.


Make sure you use dry air. Probably also want
a trap to prevent any oil from the compressor
(or any inline oilers) from coating the
electronics.

A compressor acts as a dehumidifier. If the air in the tank is at 100
PSI at ambient temperature and 100% RH, the air coming out will have 15%
RH at the same temperature. I used to have to bleed off the water that
ended up in the bottom of the tank.

Blowing a paper taped to a wall would be a way to check for oil.

Hitting a fan with compressed air can ruin it or cause it to ruin
something else by generating electricity. I've read that compressed air
can cause dust to lodge where it will do more harm than before.

I want to support higher education. I'll hire a dozen coeds and issue
them attractive uniforms and drinking straws. They'll go door to door,
offering to blow out computers gently. If their voice modulation
doesn't sell the customer, the sight and aroma of their fishnet hickory
smokehose will.

On 4/30/15 9:35 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per J Burns:
I'm with you. We used to fix buggy equipment by letting it soak in a
deep sink with hot water and floor soap. Then rinse. Then bake at 125F
for 24 hours.

When I serviced crypto equipment in Hawaii, we used to scrub the circuit
boards in a warm solution of Pine-Sol.... scrub brush and all...

I worked at the Coast Guard electronics repair facility in Ketchikan.
Anything from Alaska's 6640 miles of coastline that couldn't be fixed in
the field came to us. The AN/URC-51 (UHF/SSB) was the eqjuipment we
always laundered. I didn't understand it, but it helped a lot. Now I
think the grime caused stray capacitance.

We used a caustic powdered floor soap that would probably have left a
film if not thoroughly rinsed.

In the early 1980s, my mother's 19" TV quit. The main board was covered
with syrup. Somebody must have put a sugary drink on the TV and knocked
it over. I knew she wouldn't tell, so I didn't ask. I just soaked the TV
in the laundry sink. I added a little ammonia. It was potentially
harmful, but it wouldn't leave a deposit.

The TV worked like new after that.

On 4/30/15 2:48 PM, J Burns wrote:
I worked at the Coast Guard electronics repair facility in Ketchikan.
Anything from Alaska's 6640 miles of coastline that couldn't be fixed in
the field came to us.

Did I say 6640 miles? That's according to the the 1975 CRS report for
Congress. The NOAA says Alaska has 33,904 miles of coastline.

J Burns wrote:
On 4/30/15 9:35 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per J Burns:
I'm with you. We used to fix buggy equipment by letting it soak in a
deep sink with hot water and floor soap. Then rinse. Then bake at 125F
for 24 hours.

When I serviced crypto equipment in Hawaii, we used to scrub the circuit
boards in a warm solution of Pine-Sol.... scrub brush and all...

I worked at the Coast Guard electronics repair facility in Ketchikan.
Anything from Alaska's 6640 miles of coastline that couldn't be fixed in
the field came to us. The AN/URC-51 (UHF/SSB) was the eqjuipment we
always laundered. I didn't understand it, but it helped a lot. Now I
think the grime caused stray capacitance.

We used a caustic powdered floor soap that would probably have left a
film if not thoroughly rinsed.

In the early 1980s, my mother's 19" TV quit. The main board was covered
with syrup. Somebody must have put a sugary drink on the TV and knocked
it over. I knew she wouldn't tell, so I didn't ask. I just soaked the TV
in the laundry sink. I added a little ammonia. It was potentially
harmful, but it wouldn't leave a deposit.

The TV worked like new after that.

Of course, you could/can do that with discrete/legacy components, but
not any more these days. Maybe we can wash keyboard in the DW, well,
I suppose I can wash guitar amp. PCb board as well. Most today's
guitar amp. based on vacuum tubes have PCBs. Not much P-P wiring any
more unless it is boutique class high end stuff.

J Burns writes:

On 4/30/15 2:48 PM, J Burns wrote:
I worked at the Coast Guard electronics repair facility in Ketchikan.
Anything from Alaska's 6640 miles of coastline that couldn't be fixed in
the field came to us.

Did I say 6640 miles? That's according to the the 1975 CRS report for
Congress. The NOAA says Alaska has 33,904 miles of coastline.

Over here it says 49,000 miles:

http://www.adn.com/article/20150220/...skas-coastline

They point out the obvious, the closer you look, the longer the coast
gets. Measure around each pebble and it gets really long.

--
Dan Espen

On 4/30/15 3:51 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
J Burns wrote:
On 4/30/15 9:35 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per J Burns:
I'm with you. We used to fix buggy equipment by letting it soak in a
deep sink with hot water and floor soap. Then rinse. Then bake at
125F
for 24 hours.

When I serviced crypto equipment in Hawaii, we used to scrub the circuit
boards in a warm solution of Pine-Sol.... scrub brush and all...

I worked at the Coast Guard electronics repair facility in Ketchikan.
Anything from Alaska's 6640 miles of coastline that couldn't be fixed in
the field came to us. The AN/URC-51 (UHF/SSB) was the eqjuipment we
always laundered. I didn't understand it, but it helped a lot. Now I
think the grime caused stray capacitance.

We used a caustic powdered floor soap that would probably have left a
film if not thoroughly rinsed.

In the early 1980s, my mother's 19" TV quit. The main board was covered
with syrup. Somebody must have put a sugary drink on the TV and knocked
it over. I knew she wouldn't tell, so I didn't ask. I just soaked the TV
in the laundry sink. I added a little ammonia. It was potentially
harmful, but it wouldn't leave a deposit.

The TV worked like new after that.

Of course, you could/can do that with discrete/legacy components, but
not any more these days. Maybe we can wash keyboard in the DW, well,
I suppose I can wash guitar amp. PCb board as well. Most today's
guitar amp. based on vacuum tubes have PCBs. Not much P-P wiring any
more unless it is boutique class high end stuff.

The circuitry of that TV was mostly ICs with lots of legs. Water under
an IC can take a long time to dry. Sometimes I use a little rubbing
alcohol to help get the water out by lowering surface tension.

What can't be washed these days? I wash keyboards in the kitchen sink. I
wouldn't want to get a relay wet.

This guy says he restored his Kindle by washing the circuitry with a
Waterpik flosser.