Hi,
We manage a local community beach house: many people with wet feet and lots of sand walking in/out, and tables & chairs being moved around alot too. The floor is painted wide-plank wood flooring and we cannot change that (budget, aesthetics, etc). Typically we repaint the floors every 5+/- years and this last time should have been sooner because the paint job peeled up very fast. In the past, we've rented a floor buffer machine and used grit pads to roughen the surface before painting.

Can you recommend a VERY durable (commerical?) wood-floor paint?

All advice appreciated.
Theodore.

On Friday, April 10, 2015 at 1:39:28 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Hi,
We manage a local community beach house: many people with wet feet and lots of sand walking in/out, and tables & chairs being moved around alot too. The floor is painted wide-plank wood flooring and we cannot change that (budget, aesthetics, etc). Typically we repaint the floors every 5+/- years and this last time should have been sooner because the paint job peeled up very fast. In the past, we've rented a floor buffer machine and used grit pads to roughen the surface before painting.

Can you recommend a VERY durable (commerical?) wood-floor paint?

All advice appreciated.
Theodore.

linoleum is cheap. durable and available in many colors

linoleum is cheap. durable and available in many colors

I understand your intent, but I can't change the floor type. Has to be (some type of) paint on existing wood.

I don't know about commercial paints. There may
be some kind of industrial product available, but you'd
probably need to research that. Probably check at a
paint dealer that serves contractors. They may have
something like an industrial paint made for concrete
warehouse floors.

For regular paint, the best I know of is Benj Moore
oil base, urethane reinforced floor and deck enamel.
(Or maybe it's "porch and deck".). It's very tough. But
when it peels it's hard to scrape because the film is
very hard.
I've just been looking at something from Sherwin
Williams. I've forgotten the name but it's a new formulation
of water-base that they claim is extremely durable and
will even fill in small cracks. Sort of a thick sealant coat.
They make fancy claims about "cross linking" structure.
It looks interesting, but there's no way of knowing whether
such a new product will really be good.

One thing is certain: If you use any normal water-base
acrylic or latex it won't hold up. It's no good on floors in
the first place, and water exposure will destroy it much
faster. So you're left with the limited selection of oil
based paints, most of which have been degraded into
less durable products due to reformulation to meet fume
standards.

On Friday, April 10, 2015 at 7:04:12 PM UTC-4, wrote:
linoleum is cheap. durable and available in many colors

I understand your intent, but I can't change the floor type. Has to be (some type of) paint on existing wood.

WHY????

WHY????
I appreciate the suggestion, but I really need to stick to paint.

On Friday, April 10, 2015 at 9:15:03 PM UTC-5, wrote:

WHY????

I appreciate the suggestion, but I really need to stick to paint.


Why do you H A V E to stick to paint? I can tell you right now there is no paint that will withstand constant foot traffic and look like it's never been walked on.

| Why do you H A V E to stick to paint? I can tell you right now there is
no paint that will withstand constant foot traffic and look like it's never
been walked on.
|

The question was not what to use. He's said 3
times that it needs to be paint because of budget
and aesthetics. The plan makes sense to me.

On Fri, 10 Apr 2015 23:20:16 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

| Why do you H A V E to stick to paint? I can tell you right now there is
no paint that will withstand constant foot traffic and look like it's never
been walked on.
|

The question was not what to use. He's said 3
times that it needs to be paint because of budget
and aesthetics. The plan makes sense to me.

Any paint that will withstand the abuse will likely cost as much as
commercial linoleum, so it comes down to asthetics or the OP's
personal preference. It's less Can't, and more Won't.

Ok, thanks for the recommendation.

On 04/10/2015 12:39 PM, wrote:
Hi,
We manage a local community beach house: many people with wet feet and lots of sand walking in/out, and tables & chairs being moved around alot too. The floor is painted wide-plank wood flooring and we cannot change that (budget, aesthetics, etc). Typically we repaint the floors every 5+/- years and this last time should have been sooner because the paint job peeled up very fast. In the past, we've rented a floor buffer machine and used grit pads to roughen the surface before painting.

Can you recommend a VERY durable (commerical?) wood-floor paint?

All advice appreciated.
Theodore.




I was in the industrial battery business and we'd typically coat the
floors in battery rooms with epoxy paint.


It held up very well in an industrial environment so in a beach house it
should work great.

| Any paint that will withstand the abuse will likely cost as much as
| commercial linoleum, so it comes down to asthetics or the OP's
| personal preference. It's less Can't, and more Won't.

That's your opinion. I'd disagree. I'd expect the paint
to go $50-$100/gal, while linoleum might be $1,000 to get
installed on a similar area.

And aesthetics is not just a silly concern, so "won't" is
not stubbornness. (It might be for you, but this is not
your beach house.) We don't know what the beach house
looks like. I'm imagining something like one sees at public
beaches, a bare shack, perhaps painted gray. If it were
me I certainly wouldn't want linoleum on such a floor.

In any case, that's not for us to decide. The question
was about paint. The linoleum idea was suggested and
rejected. So that's out. Arguing that the OP is wrong is
just wiseacreing as a backseat driver, which is not helpful.

| I was in the industrial battery business and we'd typically coat the
| floors in battery rooms with epoxy paint.
|
| It held up very well in an industrial environment so in a beach house it
| should work great.

I was thinking about that, too. I once did railings
in a condo development where the owners had got
an epoxy paint. I never found out what the stuff was.
It went on thick and created a nice shell for the
pipes used in the condo deck railings. But I did it
in hot weather and was only getting about 15 minutes
out of a batch. That's one notable limitation with
epoxy: One can ruin a lot of work before getting just
the right mix and figuring out how long the open time
will be in a particular scenario.

I've noticed that there's also such a thing as
"one part epoxy" paint lately. I have no idea whether
it's any good. It sounds to me like a misuse of the
word epoxy for marketing.

On 4/11/2015 8:56 AM, Mayayana wrote:

I've noticed that there's also such a thing as
"one part epoxy" paint lately. I have no idea whether
it's any good. It sounds to me like a misuse of the
word epoxy for marketing.



It is legitimate, but can be misleading. You think of epoxy as a two
part chemical reaction substance. The so called one part epoxy paints
have an epoxy based filler in them. I guess you can grind iron to a
powder add it to the liquid and call it iron paint.

In ,
typed:

We manage a local community beach house: many people with wet feet
and lots of sand walking in/out, and tables & chairs being moved
around alot too. The floor is painted wide-plank wood flooring and
we cannot change that (budget, aesthetics, etc). Typically we
repaint the floors every 5+/- years and this last time should have
been sooner because the paint job peeled up very fast. In the past,
we've rented a floor buffer machine and used grit pads to roughen the
surface before painting.

Can you recommend a VERY durable (commercial?) wood-floor paint?

I have the same question, and it is a question that has recently come up in
another forum for rental property owners. The general consensus seems to be
that most "porch and floor paint" products by various manufacturers just do
not hold up well when painting wood porches, floors, stairs, etc.

I just did a quick Google search and here's one link that came up:
http://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-.../#.VSk-B9zF_E0



It is not much of an article, but here are a few things that it mentioned:


1) Roughing up the surface before repainting (of course).
2) Using a shellac-based primer for areas that are very worn and that need
priming.
3) Consider using an alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel for
possible better wear (they downplayed that idea, but am interested in that
option since latex based enamel doesn't seem to do very well in my opinion).

I would be interested in knowing what others think about that last option --
using alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel porch and floor
paint.

wrote:
Hi,
We manage a local community beach house: many people with wet feet and lots of sand walking in/out, and tables & chairs being moved around alot too. The floor is painted wide-plank wood flooring and we cannot change that (budget, aesthetics, etc). Typically we repaint the floors every 5+/- years and this last time should have been sooner because the paint job peeled up very fast. In the past, we've rented a floor buffer machine and used grit pads to roughen the surface before painting.

Can you recommend a VERY durable (commerical?) wood-floor paint?

All advice appreciated.
Theodore.

Marine topside paint is pretty good. There are multiple formulations,
some one-part, and some two-part. It is expensive; I bought a quart
this week and it was $49 US. Pettit and Interlux are common brands.

Excellent source for both paint and advice is at
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do

Your paint will last longer if you coat all sides of the boards,
including the bottoms.

| It is legitimate, but can be misleading. You think of epoxy as a two
| part chemical reaction substance. The so called one part epoxy paints
| have an epoxy based filler in them. I guess you can grind iron to a
| powder add it to the liquid and call it iron paint.

That doesn't sound legitimate to me. The power of
epoxy seems to be in the polymer chains created during
curing, as it is with paint, for that matter. But grinding
up top quality lead paint and putting the powder into a
can of KMart latex paint is not going to make a high
quality paint.

| 1) Roughing up the surface before repainting (of course).

And wash, with very hot TSP solution, or non-sudsing
ammoniaif you can't get TSP -- something without soap
in it.

| 2) Using a shellac-based primer for areas that are very worn and that need
| priming.

Never use shellac outside. And even inside it's mainly
used for sealing. For adhesion you want a penetrating
primer, preferably with linseed oil if it's exterior.

| 3) Consider using an alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel for
| possible better wear (they downplayed that idea, but am interested in that
| option since latex based enamel doesn't seem to do very well in my
opinion).
|
| I would be interested in knowing what others think about that last
option --
| using alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel porch and floor
| paint.
|

I would never use latex/acrylic outside on horizontal
surfaces. It simply doesn't resist water. It's also soft
and tends to peel in a film. I avoid latex for anything but
walls and siding stain. But the options are limited
right now.

The whole issue has become a big problem. Good quality
oil paints are being phased out faster than the technology
can keep up.

I used to use urethane reinforced oil-base deck paint
for steps and decks. I also used oil paint for trim and siding.
In the 80s they came out with oil-base "stain", which will
mostly wear off rather than peeling. So I switched to that
where I could. It saves a lot of scraping down the line.
Solid oil-base deck stains were also pretty good. That's what
I have on my deck now. They don't last as long as paint,
but they're easy to re-apply, while urethane reinforced paint
is very hard to scrape.

More recently solid oil-based stains and deck stains are
being phased out. The latex solid stains, while good enough
for siding, are useless on steps and decks. They just wear
away within a year. So there isn't any ideal solution. On
my deck I'll probably try to hunt down another gallon of
Cabot's solid oil deck stain for the next coat. After that?
I'll be tempted to try some new "high-tech" solution like
the new Sherwin Williams deck products. The problem with
those, though, is that they're simply unproven. I can't afford
to have people calling me back on jobs because their deck
paint slid off the deck in a sheet and landed in the driveway.

(I actually remember a case like that in an article in
Fine Homebuilding back in the 90s. California had set new
paint regulations. A contractor used the new paint on a
bathroom wall. The customer called back a few days later
to say the paint had fallen off. The contractor assumed
they meant it was peeling. But no, it was sitting on the
floor like a length of curled-up wallpaper. Current paint
technology is not much better than that. Acrylic paints
are better than ever, but they're not *good* in the ways
that oil paint was good. Meanwhile, the oil paints still
available have mostly been downgraded -- thinner and
softer than the older versions.

The entire building industry is faced with changes that
are just happening too fast and may not all be good.
Remember sprayed polyurethane insulation? It was the cat's
pajamas 20-30 years ago for filling attic areas. Then it turned
out the stuff gave off formaldehyde. When I come across it now
there's also another problem: With age it gradually breaks
down into a pile of very fine, choking dust. Yet spray insulation
is the new must-have approach for new building. Will it work
out? There's no way to know. Even if it turns out OK, I wonder
about electricians trying to snake new wires later, in a house
where every gap inside the wall has been filled with hard foam.

If I were building a deck for myself now I'd probably test-try
the new Sherwin Williams product. If I had a more finished
porch, with a roof, I might use the urethane-reinforced oil
paint. I couldn't recommend anything else. But with that paint
you may be cursing 10-15 years later, when your steps or
porch look like a relief map of different scraped layers.

In ,
Mayayana typed:
1) Roughing up the surface before repainting (of course).

And wash, with very hot TSP solution, or non-sudsing
ammoniaif you can't get TSP -- something without soap
in it.

2) Using a shellac-based primer for areas that are very worn and
that need priming.

Never use shellac outside. And even inside it's mainly
used for sealing. For adhesion you want a penetrating
primer, preferably with linseed oil if it's exterior.

3) Consider using an alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex
enamel for possible better wear (they downplayed that idea, but am
interested in that option since latex based enamel doesn't seem to
do very well in my opinion).

I would be interested in knowing what others think about that last
option --
using alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel porch and
floor paint.

Even though the OP said "community beach house", I think he meant an indoor
floor made of wood planks, not an outdoor deck etc. And, in my case, I am
mostly interested in what to use to paint indoor hardwood floors that have
already been painted in the past.

No one seems to have a specific answer for that question. Personally, I
just plain don't know the answer.

On 4/11/2015 1:28 PM, TomR wrote:
In ,
Mayayana typed:
1) Roughing up the surface before repainting (of course).

And wash, with very hot TSP solution, or non-sudsing
ammoniaif you can't get TSP -- something without soap
in it.

2) Using a shellac-based primer for areas that are very worn and
that need priming.

Never use shellac outside. And even inside it's mainly
used for sealing. For adhesion you want a penetrating
primer, preferably with linseed oil if it's exterior.

3) Consider using an alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex
enamel for possible better wear (they downplayed that idea, but am
interested in that option since latex based enamel doesn't seem to
do very well in my opinion).

I would be interested in knowing what others think about that last
option --
using alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel porch and
floor paint.

Even though the OP said "community beach house", I think he meant an indoor
floor made of wood planks, not an outdoor deck etc. And, in my case, I am
mostly interested in what to use to paint indoor hardwood floors that have
already been painted in the past.

No one seems to have a specific answer for that question. Personally, I
just plain don't know the answer.


Googling around, it looks like paint manufacturers have attacked problem
posed by op.

I was curious because sand is very abrasive and I could not think of a
plastic that might resist it.

One manufacturer was talking about nano metal technology that helped but
did not offer complete solution.

On 4/11/2015 1:28 PM, TomR wrote:

I would be interested in knowing what others think about that last
option --
using alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel porch and
floor paint.

Even though the OP said "community beach house", I think he meant an indoor
floor made of wood planks, not an outdoor deck etc. And, in my case, I am
mostly interested in what to use to paint indoor hardwood floors that have
already been painted in the past.

No one seems to have a specific answer for that question. Personally, I
just plain don't know the answer.



It has been over 10 years since we did some floors at work so I don't
recall the brand name but the store we buy from has Benjamin Moore and
at least one other brand. . Some floors were done with an oil based
paint, but others were done with a latex based paint. In both cases, it
was a designated floor paint.

IMO. the oil based had a better sheen. They were slightly better to
clean up a spilled or leaked mess. As for wear, they both held up to
heavy foot traffic, fork lift trucks, carts, and a lot of things you'd
never run into at home or in a strictly people use setting.

Color selection was also limited.

| to paint indoor hardwood floors that have
| already been painted in the past.


If it were me I'd use Benj Moore oil base
high gloss Impervo. I don't know of a better
option, but as I said, all of the options are
limited these days.

A further option would be to put something like
Varathane over that after it's cured. (You can
put polyurethane over it to protect from scratching,
but if the color is a cool tone poly will make it
look yellowed. Varathane is clear, non-yellowing.)

There are also European oil base paints that are
very expensive but are claimed to be the quality
that American oil paints used to be. Some of the
Benj Moore stores sell them.

"TomR" wrote in message
...
In ,
typed:

I would be interested in knowing what others think about that last
option -- using alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel porch
and floor paint.

"Latex" and "enamel" are mutually exclusive as far as I am concerned.

If you want a scratch resistant, long wearing paint about the best you can
do that is easily available and applicable is an oil base poly. I use
Glidden Porch & Floor on my shop floor almost 20 years ago. It is not
pristine but given the years and wear it has received, I'm happy with it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sat, 11 Apr 2015 11:47:08 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

In ,
typed:

We manage a local community beach house: many people with wet feet
and lots of sand walking in/out, and tables & chairs being moved
around alot too. The floor is painted wide-plank wood flooring and
we cannot change that (budget, aesthetics, etc). Typically we
repaint the floors every 5+/- years and this last time should have
been sooner because the paint job peeled up very fast. In the past,
we've rented a floor buffer machine and used grit pads to roughen the
surface before painting.

Can you recommend a VERY durable (commercial?) wood-floor paint?

I have the same question, and it is a question that has recently come up in
another forum for rental property owners. The general consensus seems to be
that most "porch and floor paint" products by various manufacturers just do
not hold up well when painting wood porches, floors, stairs, etc.

I just did a quick Google search and here's one link that came up:
http://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-.../#.VSk-B9zF_E0



It is not much of an article, but here are a few things that it mentioned:


1) Roughing up the surface before repainting (of course).
2) Using a shellac-based primer for areas that are very worn and that need
priming.
3) Consider using an alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel for
possible better wear (they downplayed that idea, but am interested in that
option since latex based enamel doesn't seem to do very well in my opinion).

I would be interested in knowing what others think about that last option --
using alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel porch and floor
paint.

How about something like Deckover or Deckote? Deckover is a Behr
(Home Despot) product, Deckover is from Consolidated Coatings.

Or even try a roll-on "bed liner" product. Likely available for about
half the price of the deck products.

The big thing is the floor needs to be 100% clean and dry for ANY
coating to stick reliably.

On Sat, 11 Apr 2015 13:18:08 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

| 1) Roughing up the surface before repainting (of course).

And wash, with very hot TSP solution, or non-sudsing
ammoniaif you can't get TSP -- something without soap
in it.

| 2) Using a shellac-based primer for areas that are very worn and that need
| priming.

Never use shellac outside. And even inside it's mainly
used for sealing. For adhesion you want a penetrating
primer, preferably with linseed oil if it's exterior.

| 3) Consider using an alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel for
| possible better wear (they downplayed that idea, but am interested in that
| option since latex based enamel doesn't seem to do very well in my
opinion).
|
| I would be interested in knowing what others think about that last
option --
| using alkyd or oil-based paint instead of latex enamel porch and floor
| paint.
|

I would never use latex/acrylic outside on horizontal
surfaces. It simply doesn't resist water. It's also soft
and tends to peel in a film. I avoid latex for anything but
walls and siding stain. But the options are limited
right now.

The whole issue has become a big problem. Good quality
oil paints are being phased out faster than the technology
can keep up.

I used to use urethane reinforced oil-base deck paint
for steps and decks. I also used oil paint for trim and siding.
In the 80s they came out with oil-base "stain", which will
mostly wear off rather than peeling. So I switched to that
where I could. It saves a lot of scraping down the line.
Solid oil-base deck stains were also pretty good. That's what
I have on my deck now. They don't last as long as paint,
but they're easy to re-apply, while urethane reinforced paint
is very hard to scrape.

More recently solid oil-based stains and deck stains are
being phased out. The latex solid stains, while good enough
for siding, are useless on steps and decks. They just wear
away within a year. So there isn't any ideal solution. On
my deck I'll probably try to hunt down another gallon of
Cabot's solid oil deck stain for the next coat. After that?
I'll be tempted to try some new "high-tech" solution like
the new Sherwin Williams deck products. The problem with
those, though, is that they're simply unproven. I can't afford
to have people calling me back on jobs because their deck
paint slid off the deck in a sheet and landed in the driveway.

(I actually remember a case like that in an article in
Fine Homebuilding back in the 90s. California had set new
paint regulations. A contractor used the new paint on a
bathroom wall. The customer called back a few days later
to say the paint had fallen off. The contractor assumed
they meant it was peeling. But no, it was sitting on the
floor like a length of curled-up wallpaper. Current paint
technology is not much better than that. Acrylic paints
are better than ever, but they're not *good* in the ways
that oil paint was good. Meanwhile, the oil paints still
available have mostly been downgraded -- thinner and
softer than the older versions.

The entire building industry is faced with changes that
are just happening too fast and may not all be good.
Remember sprayed polyurethane insulation? It was the cat's
pajamas 20-30 years ago for filling attic areas. Then it turned
out the stuff gave off formaldehyde.

You are confusing 2 products. Urea Formadehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI)
is the product that breaks down and releases formaldehyde under
certain conditions - Urethane spray foam insulation is totally
different..
Isocyanates can be a problem with urethanes - generally if properly
mixed and applied the problem is over in less than 2 days - but DO NOT
hang around inside a poorly ventilated building when urethane is being
sprayed!!!
When I come across it now
there's also another problem: With age it gradually breaks
down into a pile of very fine, choking dust. Yet spray insulation
is the new must-have approach for new building. Will it work
out? There's no way to know. Even if it turns out OK, I wonder
about electricians trying to snake new wires later, in a house
where every gap inside the wall has been filled with hard foam.

VERRY carefully!!! That is one problem with a foamed building. You
basically need to cut and drill to install anything - and then refoam
when you are done. My father's last 2 housed that he had built were
Urethane spray foam insulated.

Part of the problem with UFFI was it was used where it should not have
been used. It was approved only for use in wood-framed buildings, but
was installed in double-brick construction and all sorts of other
constructions. There is also a difference between acidic and
non-acidic based foam, with the Acidic foam being the more
problematic.

If I were building a deck for myself now I'd probably test-try
the new Sherwin Williams product. If I had a more finished
porch, with a roof, I might use the urethane-reinforced oil
paint. I couldn't recommend anything else. But with that paint
you may be cursing 10-15 years later, when your steps or
porch look like a relief map of different scraped layers.

On Fri, 10 Apr 2015 10:39:23 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


Can you recommend a VERY durable (commerical?) wood-floor paint?

All advice appreciated.
Theodore.

I know you dont want linoleum, but there is a liquid flooring called
Torginol.
www.torginol.com

It's like a paint (sort of). It's similar to an epoxy. You pour and
spread it, then add the colored flakes, which makes it look very nice.
Then you coat it with more of the clear liquid. The more coats you add,
the thicker the material gets, and thus wont wear as fast.

As far as I know, you can recoat it with the clear coating after it
starts to wear, and probably add more flakes in wear spots. I have never
used it, but I knew someone who installed it in the 80s. It did make a
very durable floor and nice looking too. It's probably one of the best
things you could use, but will likely cost more than paint. But if you
have to paint every few years, this stuff will likely pay for itself in
time.

well if OP was able to remove ALL of the old coatings I wonder if the now cleaned surface could be stained?

My moms basemet floor had many coats of worn paint. I ended up removing what I could, gave up, and used vinyl tile.

incidently all the chemical paint removers made the floor extremely slippery in use

Even though the OP said "community beach house", I think he meant an indoor
floor made of wood planks, not an outdoor deck etc. And, in my case, I am
mostly interested in what to use to paint indoor hardwood floors that have
already been painted in the past.

No one seems to have a specific answer for that question. Personally, I
just plain don't know the answer.

I'm the OP. Yes, you are correct.

On Monday, April 13, 2015 at 2:24:17 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Even though the OP said "community beach house", I think he meant an indoor
floor made of wood planks, not an outdoor deck etc. And, in my case, I am
mostly interested in what to use to paint indoor hardwood floors that have
already been painted in the past.

No one seems to have a specific answer for that question. Personally, I
just plain don't know the answer.

I'm the OP. Yes, you are correct.

strip, sand, stain and outdoor polyurethane.

time consuming but will bring back the beauty of wood

| strip, sand, stain and outdoor polyurethane.
| time consuming but will bring back the beauty of wood

But it won't last. I'd consider that arguably
the worst of all options. Have you ever seen
where people have put beautiful mahogany
or oak trim around their front door or porch?
It's gorgeous for a year or two. Then the
finish attracts mildew. Then it starts to break
down and gray, weathered spots show through.
Then what? The whole thing has to be completely
stripped again.

Also, in this case the floor is in a bathhouse.
Beauty of the wood is not what he's looking for.
And while a bathhouse has a roof over it, the floor
is presumably open to the elements underneath,
as well as being exposed to a lot of water and
sand on the top surface. So in practice it's an
exterior deck. The only abuse it's not getting is
sun.

Mayayana wrote:
....
Also, in this case the floor is in a bathhouse.
Beauty of the wood is not what he's looking for.
And while a bathhouse has a roof over it, the floor
is presumably open to the elements underneath,
as well as being exposed to a lot of water and
sand on the top surface. So in practice it's an
exterior deck. The only abuse it's not getting is
sun.

it's really the wrong floor for that place.

sanding it down and then sealing it with linseed
oil might be the best option as then any more
maint would be just to sweep it and put a bit more
oil on.


songbird

| it's really the wrong floor for that place.
|
| sanding it down and then sealing it with linseed
| oil might be the best option as then any more
| maint would be just to sweep it and put a bit more
| oil on.
|

Three problems with that, I think:

1) Splinters.

2) Linseed oil attracts mildew.

3) It would probably be unsanitary to have such
a porous surface covered with water and feet
all day. Linseed oil used to be common for
outdoor steps, but it only protects for so long.
Remember those gray fir steps from years ago?
One knew it was time to replace them when they
broke down into a block of gray, shedding shards.

I'm trying to remember what state beaches use,
but I can't picture it now. I think the shower
houses are usually just set slightly off the ground
with a concrete floor. But in my memory I'm
imagining wide planks painted gray. On the
other hand, state facilities can use products not
available to the public, and may very well repaint
every year.

On 4/10/2015 9:29 PM, ItsJoanNotJoann wrote:
On Friday, April 10, 2015 at 9:15:03 PM UTC-5,
wrote:

WHY????

I appreciate the suggestion, but I really need to stick to
paint.


Why do you H A V E to stick to paint? I can tell you right now
there is no paint that will withstand constant foot traffic and
look like it's never been walked on.


Same for linoleum. It's not lower-maintenance, just somewhat different
maintenance.

Mayayana wrote:
| it's really the wrong floor for that place.
|
| sanding it down and then sealing it with linseed
| oil might be the best option as then any more
| maint would be just to sweep it and put a bit more
| oil on.

Three problems with that, I think:

1) Splinters.

2) Linseed oil attracts mildew.

never heard of this being a problem.


3) It would probably be unsanitary to have such
a porous surface covered with water and feet
all day. Linseed oil used to be common for
outdoor steps, but it only protects for so long.
Remember those gray fir steps from years ago?
One knew it was time to replace them when they
broke down into a block of gray, shedding shards.

when you sweep a wood floor you use a light
brush of linseed each time (used on the sweeper
to get rid of the sand). there should not be
any problem with spinters if there hasn't
already been a problem.

if you're that concerned about sanitary conditions
and cleaning to germ free status then wood slab
flooring is not the right floor.


I'm trying to remember what state beaches use,
but I can't picture it now. I think the shower
houses are usually just set slightly off the ground
with a concrete floor. But in my memory I'm
imagining wide planks painted gray. On the
other hand, state facilities can use products not
available to the public, and may very well repaint
every year.

i can't see anything other than bare cement being
very decent for most places. colored cement for a
more fancy place. seamless flooring would be ok for
some areas if there wasn't furniture being dragged
over it all the time, but so would tile be ok for
such a place. overall, i'd get rid of the wood and
put in concrete. not ever paint it. that's just a
waste of time and money.


songbird

On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 11:58:11 -0500, Moe DeLoughan
wrote:

On 4/10/2015 9:29 PM, ItsJoanNotJoann wrote:
On Friday, April 10, 2015 at 9:15:03 PM UTC-5,
wrote:

WHY????

I appreciate the suggestion, but I really need to stick to
paint.


Why do you H A V E to stick to paint? I can tell you right now
there is no paint that will withstand constant foot traffic and
look like it's never been walked on.


Same for linoleum. It's not lower-maintenance, just somewhat different
maintenance.
Battleship linoleum would likely last 7-8 years.