I have a set of metal drawers in the lab that are getting old. Ugly
dark, dull green. Looking to paing them black, but I have no idea what
will be durable and not flake off.

I haven't found 2-part black epoxy (though I wouldn't look forward to
dealing with it anyway). Anyone have experience with this?

In article ,
Bob wrote:

I have a set of metal drawers in the lab that are getting old. Ugly
dark, dull green. Looking to paing them black, but I have no idea what
will be durable and not flake off.

I haven't found 2-part black epoxy (though I wouldn't look forward to
dealing with it anyway). Anyone have experience with this?

I don't know what your budget is, but I'm a big fan of powdercoating.
That means taking them down to a local industrial finishing shop, making
friends with the grizzly old guy there even if he does have a picture of
Ronald Reagan on the wall, and asking him what it would cost to have
them thrown in with his next batch.

The correct place is not in the phone book, and when you walk in it
isn't going to be neat and tidy and in a spendy part of town. Those are
signs that you're in the shop used by interior decorators to waste their
clients' money.

To find the correct place, drive down to a couple of machine shops or
sheet metal fabricators, and ask the shop foreman or the guy out in the
parking lot smoking a cigarette, where they send their painting and
powdercoating.

OTOH, if this is strictly low budget DIY, then I'm still a Krylon
advocate. I'm sure you'll hear differing opinions on that, though. As
with any paint job, thorough surface prep is vital. I have a sand blast
cabinet which beats the hell out of any other method of prep.

On Mar 25, 3:53*am, Bob wrote:
I have a set of metal drawers in the lab that are getting old. Ugly
dark, dull green. Looking to paing them black, but I have no idea what
will be durable and not flake off.

I haven't found 2-part black epoxy (though I wouldn't look forward to
dealing with it anyway). Anyone have experience with this?

Flaking off is bad prep. Leave any oil from your hands on the handle
areas and bond just wont be 100%. If paint there now is bad or soft
from years of touching the only stripping guarntees a great bond, but
is it worth stripping. Go to a real paint store that sells only paint
and do what they recomend

On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 03:18:14 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Bob wrote:

I have a set of metal drawers in the lab that are getting old. Ugly
dark, dull green. Looking to paing them black, but I have no idea what
will be durable and not flake off.

I haven't found 2-part black epoxy (though I wouldn't look forward to
dealing with it anyway). Anyone have experience with this?

I don't know what your budget is, but I'm a big fan of powdercoating.
That means taking them down to a local industrial finishing shop, making
friends with the grizzly old guy there even if he does have a picture of
Ronald Reagan on the wall, and asking him what it would cost to have
them thrown in with his next batch.

The correct place is not in the phone book, and when you walk in it
isn't going to be neat and tidy and in a spendy part of town. Those are
signs that you're in the shop used by interior decorators to waste their
clients' money.

To find the correct place, drive down to a couple of machine shops or
sheet metal fabricators, and ask the shop foreman or the guy out in the
parking lot smoking a cigarette, where they send their painting and
powdercoating.

OTOH, if this is strictly low budget DIY, then I'm still a Krylon
advocate. I'm sure you'll hear differing opinions on that, though. As
with any paint job, thorough surface prep is vital. I have a sand blast
cabinet which beats the hell out of any other method of prep.


I can't add a thing. Well answered question.

On Mar 25, 6:18*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,

*Bob wrote:
I have a set of metal drawers in the lab that are getting old. Ugly
dark, dull green. Looking to paing them black, but I have no idea what
will be durable and not flake off.

I haven't found 2-part black epoxy (though I wouldn't look forward to
dealing with it anyway). Anyone have experience with this?

I don't know what your budget is, but I'm a big fan of powdercoating.
That means taking them down to a local industrial finishing shop, making
friends with the grizzly old guy there even if he does have a picture of
Ronald Reagan on the wall, and asking him what it would cost to have
them thrown in with his next batch.

The correct place is not in the phone book, and when you walk in it
isn't going to be neat and tidy and in a spendy part of town. Those are
signs that you're in the shop used by interior decorators to waste their
clients' money.

To find the correct place, drive down to a couple of machine shops or
sheet metal fabricators, and ask the shop foreman or the guy out in the
parking lot smoking a cigarette, where they send their painting and
powdercoating.

OTOH, if this is strictly low budget DIY, then I'm still a Krylon
advocate. I'm sure you'll hear differing opinions on that, though. As
with any paint job, thorough surface prep is vital. I have a sand blast
cabinet which beats the hell out of any other method of prep.

This.

Second best would be having them sprayed by someone with a real spray
gun (e.g. your neighbor that restores old cars in his spare time.)
Also probably not cheap and possibly just as expensive as powdercoat.

Third choice, for a complete DIY in-your-driveway solution, would be
to strip (probably chemically) wet sand with about 320, then prime and
paint with rattle can automotive primer and "appliance epoxy."

nate

On Mar 25, 4:53*am, Bob wrote:
I have a set of metal drawers in the lab that are getting old. Ugly
dark, dull green. Looking to paing them black, but I have no idea what
will be durable and not flake off.

I haven't found 2-part black epoxy (though I wouldn't look forward to
dealing with it anyway). Anyone have experience with this?

I have a couple of 2 drawer filing cabinets that I painted with black
automotive hi- temp paint. 4 years old and still looking good.


Jimmie

On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 03:18:14 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Bob wrote:

I have a set of metal drawers in the lab that are getting old. Ugly
dark, dull green. Looking to paing them black, but I have no idea what
will be durable and not flake off.

I haven't found 2-part black epoxy (though I wouldn't look forward to
dealing with it anyway). Anyone have experience with this?

I don't know what your budget is, but I'm a big fan of powdercoating.
That means taking them down to a local industrial finishing shop, making
friends with the grizzly old guy there even if he does have a picture of
Ronald Reagan on the wall, and asking him what it would cost to have
them thrown in with his next batch.

The correct place is not in the phone book, and when you walk in it
isn't going to be neat and tidy and in a spendy part of town. Those are
signs that you're in the shop used by interior decorators to waste their
clients' money.

To find the correct place, drive down to a couple of machine shops or
sheet metal fabricators, and ask the shop foreman or the guy out in the
parking lot smoking a cigarette, where they send their painting and
powdercoating.

Excellent thoughts. Not sure they have any sheet-metal fab places
nearby, but I'll take another look. The guy would definitely have a
Reagan poster though.

OTOH, if this is strictly low budget DIY, then I'm still a Krylon
advocate. I'm sure you'll hear differing opinions on that, though. As
with any paint job, thorough surface prep is vital. I have a sand blast
cabinet which beats the hell out of any other method of prep.

I thought Krylon was acrylic? (Hence the name). Acrylic would be
pretty soft for this app--it would get scratched. I never had good
luck with Krylon anyway. (Glad to hear that you have). I'd think that
black oil-base urethane enamel would be tougher, no?

You might look this over. A bit more time, but probably worth
considering. Any paint job will take several weeks to totally
cure except the powdercoat.


http://www.v8alfa.com/index79master....llarpaint.html

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Bob" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 03:18:14 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Bob wrote:

I have a set of metal drawers in the lab that are getting old.
Ugly
dark, dull green. Looking to paing them black, but I have no
idea what
will be durable and not flake off.

I haven't found 2-part black epoxy (though I wouldn't look
forward to
dealing with it anyway). Anyone have experience with this?

I don't know what your budget is, but I'm a big fan of
powdercoating.
That means taking them down to a local industrial finishing
shop, making
friends with the grizzly old guy there even if he does have a
picture of
Ronald Reagan on the wall, and asking him what it would cost to
have
them thrown in with his next batch.

The correct place is not in the phone book, and when you walk in
it
isn't going to be neat and tidy and in a spendy part of town.
Those are
signs that you're in the shop used by interior decorators to
waste their
clients' money.

To find the correct place, drive down to a couple of machine
shops or
sheet metal fabricators, and ask the shop foreman or the guy out
in the
parking lot smoking a cigarette, where they send their painting
and
powdercoating.

Excellent thoughts. Not sure they have any sheet-metal fab
places
nearby, but I'll take another look. The guy would definitely
have a
Reagan poster though.

OTOH, if this is strictly low budget DIY, then I'm still a
Krylon
advocate. I'm sure you'll hear differing opinions on that,
though. As
with any paint job, thorough surface prep is vital. I have a
sand blast
cabinet which beats the hell out of any other method of prep.

I thought Krylon was acrylic? (Hence the name). Acrylic would be
pretty soft for this app--it would get scratched. I never had
good
luck with Krylon anyway. (Glad to hear that you have). I'd
think that
black oil-base urethane enamel would be tougher, no?

Bob wrote:
I have a set of metal drawers in the lab that are getting old. Ugly
dark, dull green. Looking to paing them black, but I have no idea what
will be durable and not flake off.

I haven't found 2-part black epoxy (though I wouldn't look forward to
dealing with it anyway). Anyone have experience with this?

I've had good results using Preval sprayer with Rustoleum primer and
enamel (on old range hood). Not auto-body smooth, but very decent. I
didn't strip the old paint because I didn't want to harm new cabinets.
No rust, and old paint was gummy with metal showing through. I
degreased with denatured alcohol and fine sanded. Preval sprayers are
handy gadgets, small spray pattern. If there is rust, it should be
removed and primed right away, being sure to clean off any grease or
fingerprints. Preval sprayers require thinning the paint (read the
label) and get occ. spatter, but better than cans, IMO.

Bob wrote:

Excellent thoughts. Not sure they have any sheet-metal fab places
nearby, but I'll take another look. The guy would definitely have a
Reagan poster though.


Especially since pin-ups like Marilyn Monroe are specifically prohibited by
either federal law or militant feminists - I forget which. Maybe both.

In article ,
Bob wrote:

On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 08:58:51 -0500, "DanG" wrote:


You might look this over. A bit more time, but probably worth
considering. Any paint job will take several weeks to totally
cure except the powdercoat.


http://www.v8alfa.com/index79master....0dollarpaint.h
tml

Wow... ten lab drawers have caused me to procrastinate for a couple
years, but that guy did a well-documented fixup on a Corvair. Now I'm
embarrassed.

Nobody's going to come into your lab and praise your fine workmanship on
repainting some drawers. Your task is a chore. That guy's task was a
labor of love.

On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 08:58:51 -0500, "DanG" wrote:


You might look this over. A bit more time, but probably worth
considering. Any paint job will take several weeks to totally
cure except the powdercoat.


http://www.v8alfa.com/index79master....llarpaint.html

Wow... ten lab drawers have caused me to procrastinate for a couple
years, but that guy did a well-documented fixup on a Corvair. Now I'm
embarrassed.

DanG wrote:
You might look this over. A bit more time, but probably worth
considering. Any paint job will take several weeks to totally
cure except the powdercoat.


http://www.v8alfa.com/index79master....llarpaint.html


Wow! There's hope for the '84 Regal ) What to do about small rusted
through holes? Bondo?

On Mar 26, 8:32*am, "
wrote:
DanG wrote:
You might look this over. *A bit more time, but probably worth
considering. *Any paint job will take several weeks to totally
cure except the powdercoat.

http://www.v8alfa.com/index79master....fa.com/50dolla...

Wow! *There's hope for the '84 Regal ) *What to do about small rusted
through holes? *Bondo?

No, no no NO NO NO! Bondo is evil, evil stuff. Cut out the old
metal, weld in new. THEN skim coat with Bondo to feather the patch
in. Yes, I know, people have been stuffing screening and Bondo into
rust holes in their old beater cars for years, but Bondo has a lot of
talc in it and will hold moisture... making it rust even faster.
Likewise, if you're spot repairing, never cover a patch with primer
and leave it. Always coat the primer with something, even if it's
just a cheap rattle can of flat black. Lacquer primer will also hold
moisture (right against the Bondo you just sprayed it over.)

Also, anything you can do to get a good coat of paint on the backside
of a repair will make it last much longer.

nate