A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?

philo wrote:
A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?
Hi,
I wonder why?

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 17:21:26 -0600, philo* wrote:

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?

Certainly. You have water at the unit.

Kitchens require a GFCI in modern times?

On 11/17/2014 6:21 PM, philo wrote:
A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?


Something to consider. If you hard wire, they have to be disconnected if
moved out for service. I put a receptacle under the sink Short cord and
plug makes it easy to handle.

On 11/17/2014 06:17 PM, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 17:21:26 -0600, philo wrote:

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?

Certainly. You have water at the unit.

Kitchens require a GFCI in modern times?



I was pretty sure. Thanks for the confirmation.

This should not be too bad, the wall has been partially removed and it's
only about 12 feet from the breaker box.


Will p/u two GFC breakers tomorrow

On 11/17/2014 06:22 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 11/17/2014 6:21 PM, philo wrote:
A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?


Something to consider. If you hard wire, they have to be disconnected if
moved out for service. I put a receptacle under the sink Short cord and
plug makes it easy to handle.




That occurred to me but if I leave enough wire for the washer to be
pulled out for service, that should be OK I think.

On 11/17/2014 7:23 PM, philo wrote:
On 11/17/2014 06:17 PM, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 17:21:26 -0600, philo wrote:

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?

Certainly. You have water at the unit.

Kitchens require a GFCI in modern times?



I was pretty sure. Thanks for the confirmation.

This should not be too bad, the wall has been partially removed and it's
only about 12 feet from the breaker box.


Will p/u two GFC breakers tomorrow

It's been years, but I've found GFCI breakers are
far more expensive than GFCI socket. I'd consider a
GFCI socket and short cord, as mentioned.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 17:21:26 -0600, philo* wrote:

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?

To be odd man out, my house used 1979 rules, but I have separate
breakers for the D\W. the washer, and the disposale, and none are GFC.

The kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles are.

On 11/17/2014 07:03 PM, micky wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 17:21:26 -0600, philo wrote:

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?

To be odd man out, my house used 1979 rules, but I have separate
breakers for the D\W. the washer, and the disposale, and none are GFC.

The kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles are.



I'm going with the present code

On 11/17/2014 8:03 PM, micky wrote:
To be odd man out, my house used 1979 rules, but I have separate
breakers for the D\W. the washer, and the disposale, and none are GFC.

The kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles are.


You should use 1967 rules, and give up about
2/3 of your house to Palestine. You'll love
em! Really knock you dead. A real blast.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/17/2014 8:05 PM, philo wrote:
To be odd man out, my house used 1979 rules, but I have separate
breakers for the D\W. the washer, and the disposale, and none are GFC.

The kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles are.



I'm going with the present code

You might get sentenced to jail in 1979....

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/17/2014 6:41 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/17/2014 7:23 PM, philo wrote:

[snip]


This should not be too bad, the wall has been partially removed and it's
only about 12 feet from the breaker box.


Will p/u two GFC breakers tomorrow

It's been years, but I've found GFCI breakers are
far more expensive than GFCI socket. I'd consider a
GFCI socket and short cord, as mentioned.

Depends on the load of course but I agree about the GFCI outlet being
the cheaper route to go. Consider also, that if you have access to the
wall and outlet box, you could tie in there with a BX or Romex pig tail
to the DW or the Disposal. Everything downwind of the GFCI is protected
as well.

That's another nice feature of the cheaper CFCI outlets... install in
the first outlet in that circuit in the kitchen or bath and the others
that follow can be the normal outlets. Only thing you need to consider
is the total load on that circuit.

On 11/17/2014 8:36 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
It's been years, but I've found GFCI breakers are
far more expensive than GFCI socket. I'd consider a
GFCI socket and short cord, as mentioned.

Depends on the load of course but I agree about the GFCI outlet being
the cheaper route to go. Consider also, that if you have access to the
wall and outlet box, you could tie in there with a BX or Romex pig tail
to the DW or the Disposal. Everything downwind of the GFCI is protected
as well.

That's another nice feature of the cheaper CFCI outlets... install in
the first outlet in that circuit in the kitchen or bath and the others
that follow can be the normal outlets. Only thing you need to consider
is the total load on that circuit.


Now, that sounds like the voice of experience.

Nothing like a RX pt down from the GFCI, KWIM?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 11/17/2014 6:21 PM, philo wrote:
A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?


Something to consider. If you hard wire, they have to be disconnected if
moved out for service. I put a receptacle under the sink Short cord and
plug makes it easy to handle.
Hi,
Both are installed with plugs in our kitchen too. The possibility is
both having inductive load(motors) it can falsely trigger GFCI sensor
and shut the unit specially when starting. Like wise fridge is not on
GFCI.

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 19:05:35 -0600, philo* wrote:

On 11/17/2014 07:03 PM, micky wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 17:21:26 -0600, philo wrote:

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?

To be odd man out, my house used 1979 rules, but I have separate
breakers for the D\W. the washer, and the disposale, and none are GFC.

The kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles are.



I'm going with the present code

You're call. (Has it changed?)

On Monday, November 17, 2014 6:21:32 PM UTC-5, philo* wrote:
A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?


*2014 National Electrical Code requires that the dishwasher be GFI protected (210.8(D). You can install a GFI outlet under the counter for this, but it must be reasonably accessible for servicing.

There is no requirement that the garbage disposal be GFI protected. If it is plugged into an outlet under the counter instead of being hardwired, the outlet would need to be GFI (210.8(A)(7).

John Grabowski
http://www.MrElectrician.TV

On 11/17/2014 08:37 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 20:57:56 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 19:05:35 -0600, philo wrote:

On 11/17/2014 07:03 PM, micky wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 17:21:26 -0600, philo wrote:

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?

To be odd man out, my house used 1979 rules, but I have separate
breakers for the D\W. the washer, and the disposale, and none are GFC.

The kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles are.



I'm going with the present code

You're call. (Has it changed?)

In a dwelling;
There is no requirement to put the dish washer, disposal or fridge on
GFCI circuits, only "where the receptacles are installed to serve the
countertop surfaces" 210.52(G)(6)




OK, so you are saying no GFC is needed if there is no receptacle?


I looked at the NEC and see 210.52 (G) but no subsection (6)

On 11/17/2014 08:51 PM, John G wrote:
On Monday, November 17, 2014 6:21:32 PM UTC-5, philo wrote:
A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?


*2014 National Electrical Code requires that the dishwasher be GFI protected (210.8(D). You can install a GFI outlet under the counter for this, but it must be reasonably accessible for servicing.

There is no requirement that the garbage disposal be GFI protected. If it is plugged into an outlet under the counter instead of being hardwired, the outlet would need to be GFI (210.8(A)(7).

John Grabowski
http://www.MrElectrician.TV




The more I think about this I realize that since both units will have
water in them that it makes sense to put on a GFI breaker. (even if not
needed for the disposal)


I plan to do this by direct wiring and not by the use of receptacles.


Originally I was thinking of running two, 15 amp circuits
but think a single 20 Amp should suffice.

On 11/17/2014 09:28 PM, wrote:
O

In a dwelling;
There is no requirement to put the dish washer, disposal or fridge on
GFCI circuits, only "where the receptacles are installed to serve the
countertop surfaces" 210.52(G)(6)




OK, so you are saying no GFC is needed if there is no receptacle?


I looked at the NEC and see 210.52 (G) but no subsection (6)
210.8(A)(6)

Sorry. Brain fart.





Thanks

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:15:58 -0600, philo* wrote:

Originally I was thinking of running two, 15 amp circuits
but think a single 20 Amp should suffice.

Here in NYC they have to be on dedicated circuits.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Two separate circuits seems unreasonable, since you rarely would be starting to use the disposal at the exact same time as the dishwasher motor is starting up. The outlet route with a short cord and plug is definitely the way togo for ease of current use and future repairs.

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 01:02:51 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:34:08 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Two separate circuits seems unreasonable, since you rarely would be starting to use the disposal at the exact same time as the dishwasher motor is starting up. The outlet route with a short cord and plug is definitely the way togo for ease of current use and future repairs.

The only problem is to have 2 pieces of equipment on one circuit is
the name plate load will have to be less than 20a when you use 125% of
the largest one plus the smaller at 100%
You might just make it tho.

As a practical matter, I've had both on the same circuit for 30 years
and never had a problem. Rare they both run together, but once in a
while they do for a brief time.

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?


*2014 National Electrical Code requires that the dishwasher be GFI protected (210.8(D). You can install a GFI outlet under the counter for this, but it must be reasonably accessible for servicing.

There is no requirement that the garbage disposal be GFI protected. If it is plugged into an outlet under the counter instead of being hardwired, the outlet would need to be GFI (210.8(A)(7).

John Grabowski
http://www.MrElectrician.TV

2014? Eeek!
We are still waiting until they decide when the 11 will be approved.


*New Jersey should have the 2014 adopted by January. I had my mandatory 2014 code update class last February.

On 11/18/2014 05:00 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 01:02:51 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:34:08 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Two separate circuits seems unreasonable, since you rarely would be starting to use the disposal at the exact same time as the dishwasher motor is starting up. The outlet route with a short cord and plug is definitely the way togo for ease of current use and future repairs.

The only problem is to have 2 pieces of equipment on one circuit is
the name plate load will have to be less than 20a when you use 125% of
the largest one plus the smaller at 100%
You might just make it tho.

As a practical matter, I've had both on the same circuit for 30 years
and never had a problem. Rare they both run together, but once in a
while they do for a brief time.




The dish washer is a pretty small one and I did not see the name plate
when I was there, but it has #16 wire so I doubt a 20 amp circuit would
be over-loaded even if they did run the disposal briefly

On 11/17/2014 10:31 PM, philo wrote:
On 11/17/2014 09:28 PM, wrote:
O

In a dwelling;
There is no requirement to put the dish washer, disposal or fridge on
GFCI circuits, only "where the receptacles are installed to serve the
countertop surfaces" 210.52(G)(6)




OK, so you are saying no GFC is needed if there is no receptacle?


I looked at the NEC and see 210.52 (G) but no subsection (6)
210.8(A)(6)

Sorry. Brain fart.





Thanks
Also, not that the codes are real strict here in western NC, neither the
DW or disposal have any type ground fault protection, other than a hard
wired ground. The house was built 5 years ago. It does have arc fault
detection for the bedrooms, though, plus GFCIs for all kitchen, bath,
unfinished basement, and exterior outlets. Also, you'd never want any
protectors on the fridge or freezer for obvious reasons.

On 11/18/2014 07:41 AM, Art Todesco wrote:


snip




Thanks
Also, not that the codes are real strict here in western NC, neither the
DW or disposal have any type ground fault protection, other than a hard
wired ground. The house was built 5 years ago. It does have arc fault
detection for the bedrooms, though, plus GFCIs for all kitchen, bath,
unfinished basement, and exterior outlets. Also, you'd never want any
protectors on the fridge or freezer for obvious reasons.



Thanks to you and everyone for the advice

I'll soon be heading out to get parts.

After I finally brought my own house up to code I see that I've used up
most of my electrical supplies.

On 11/18/2014 05:56 AM, John G wrote:

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?


*2014 National Electrical Code requires that the dishwasher be GFI protected (210.8(D). You can install a GFI outlet under the counter for this, but it must be reasonably accessible for servicing.

There is no requirement that the garbage disposal be GFI protected. If it is plugged into an outlet under the counter instead of being hardwired, the outlet would need to be GFI (210.8(A)(7).

John Grabowski
http://www.MrElectrician.TV

2014? Eeek!
We are still waiting until they decide when the 11 will be approved.


*New Jersey should have the 2014 adopted by January. I had my mandatory 2014 code update class last February.


Well, one problem solved.

Went to two suppliers and could not find an Eaton/Cutler Hammer GFCI
breaker so will use the GFCI outlet method.

Will be better when the need arises for removing the washer.

=?windows-1252?Q?philo=A0?= writes:
On 11/18/2014 05:56 AM, John G wrote:

A friend is remodeling and wanted me to wire-in a garbage disposal and
dish washer.


May I assume both should be on a GFC breaker?


*2014 National Electrical Code requires that the dishwasher be GFI protected (210.8(D). You can install a GFI outlet under the counter for this, but it must be reasonably accessible for servicing.

There is no requirement that the garbage disposal be GFI protected. If it is plugged into an outlet under the counter instead of being hardwired, the outlet would need to be GFI (210.8(A)(7).

John Grabowski
http://www.MrElectrician.TV

2014? Eeek!
We are still waiting until they decide when the 11 will be approved.


*New Jersey should have the 2014 adopted by January. I had my mandatory 2014 code update class last February.


Well, one problem solved.

Went to two suppliers and could not find an Eaton/Cutler Hammer GFCI
breaker so will use the GFCI outlet method.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-20-...GFCS/100210432

On 11/18/2014 12:04 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
=?windows-1252?Q?philo=A0?= writes:
O

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-20-...GFCS/100210432




yep, I went to Home Depot's website and that's the one I found...
only the closest Home Depot to my house no longer carries any Cutler
Hammer products.



Considering the price, it was cheaper to just get a standard breaker
(elsewhere) and a GFCI outlet.

Plus as was mentioned...the dishwasher can just be unplugged if it needs
to be pulled out and worked on.

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 12:24:05 -0500, wrote in


That GFCI on the dish washer is a new requirement in the 2014 code.

Just curious: so dishwashers have been installed without GFCI for 60
or so years. Now they need to have GFCI. What has changed to require
the code intrusion? Are a lot of people suddenly getting electrocuted
or have a lot of people always been getting electrocuted and the code
writers just deciding to do something about it?

Or were the code writers just bored this year?
--
I kill-file all messages posted through Google Groups.

On 11/18/2014 5:32 PM, VinnyB wrote:
On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 12:24:05 -0500, wrote in


That GFCI on the dish washer is a new requirement in the 2014 code.

Just curious: so dishwashers have been installed without GFCI for 60
or so years. Now they need to have GFCI. What has changed to require
the code intrusion? Are a lot of people suddenly getting electrocuted
or have a lot of people always been getting electrocuted and the code
writers just deciding to do something about it?

Or were the code writers just bored this year?

I suspect the code writers got paid off by the
GFCI lobbyists, who took them to Vegas for all
drinks paid weekend at the Mustang Ranch.

Cynical, much?

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:34:08 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Two separate circuits seems unreasonable, since you rarely would be starting to use the disposal at the exact same time as the dishwasher motor is starting up. The outlet route with a short cord and plug is definitely the way togo for ease of current use and future repairs.

I don't know why that would be -- I'm often cleaning the dishes,
loading up the dishwasher, and as I finish loading, put the soap in,
and start the dishwasher, I either continue washing pots and pans, or
realize I didn't run the disposal and need to before the dishwasher
starts draining, so I run it then, right as the dishwasher is cycling.
I can't be the only one.

Having said that, our current 1955 house has the dishwasher, disposal,
all of the counter outlets and many of the lights on the same circuit.
But that doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Josh

On 11/18/2014 04:32 PM, VinnyB wrote:
On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 12:24:05 -0500, wrote in


That GFCI on the dish washer is a new requirement in the 2014 code.

Just curious: so dishwashers have been installed without GFCI for 60
or so years. Now they need to have GFCI. What has changed to require
the code intrusion? Are a lot of people suddenly getting electrocuted
or have a lot of people always been getting electrocuted and the code
writers just deciding to do something about it?

Or were the code writers just bored this year?




It's just a matter of safety.
GFCI

Back 60 years ago houses did not even have grounded outlets much less
GFCI ( Invention date 1961 according to a Google search)


I just recalled that my grandparents' house was built in 1948 and had a
dishwasher. As I kid I really thought that was hi tech.
Even though my grandmother had a dish washer I still recall that her
toaster was one of those old-fashioned kind that toasted one side of the
bread at a time

On 11/18/2014 05:25 PM, Josh wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:34:08 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Two separate circuits seems unreasonable, since you rarely would be starting to use the disposal at the exact same time as the dishwasher motor is starting up. The outlet route with a short cord and plug is definitely the way togo for ease of current use and future repairs.

I don't know why that would be -- I'm often cleaning the dishes,
loading up the dishwasher, and as I finish loading, put the soap in,
and start the dishwasher, I either continue washing pots and pans, or
realize I didn't run the disposal and need to before the dishwasher
starts draining, so I run it then, right as the dishwasher is cycling.
I can't be the only one.

Having said that, our current 1955 house has the dishwasher, disposal,
all of the counter outlets and many of the lights on the same circuit.
But that doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Josh




Since the garbage disposal usually just runs a few seconds, it's not
likely to cause a problem. I suppose that if something lodged in it and
it locked up, it could draw a bit of current though.


In my own house I have neither garbage disposal or dish washer...
however I did re-wire the kitchen so that the coffee maker, microwave
and toaster are all on their own circuits. Even two on the same circuit
would very likely be an over-load or close to it.

That GFCI on the dish washer is a new requirement in the 2014 code.

Just curious: so dishwashers have been installed without GFCI for 60
or so years. Now they need to have GFCI. What has changed to require
the code intrusion? Are a lot of people suddenly getting electrocuted
or have a lot of people always been getting electrocuted and the code
writers just deciding to do something about it?

Or were the code writers just bored this year?


*The explanation given in my code class (If I remember correctly) was that the controls for dishwashers are becoming more and more electronic and less and less mechanical. The electronic components insulating ability breaks down over time and current can leak to the metal frame thereby creating a shock hazard.

Josh wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:34:08 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Two separate circuits seems unreasonable, since you rarely would be starting to use the disposal at the exact same time as the dishwasher motor is starting up. The outlet route with a short cord and plug is definitely the way togo for ease of current use and future repairs.

I don't know why that would be -- I'm often cleaning the dishes,
loading up the dishwasher, and as I finish loading, put the soap in,
and start the dishwasher, I either continue washing pots and pans, or
realize I didn't run the disposal and need to before the dishwasher
starts draining, so I run it then, right as the dishwasher is cycling.
I can't be the only one.

Having said that, our current 1955 house has the dishwasher, disposal,
all of the counter outlets and many of the lights on the same circuit.
But that doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Josh

Hmm,
In our kitchen DW and disposal unit is on different circuit. Fridge, MW
also. All counter top duplex outlets are independent, each fed by
different circuit, lighting is all pot LEDs on dimmer. Sub panel for
kitchen is located on the pantry wall. Never had problem.

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 11/18/2014 12:04 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
=?windows-1252?Q?philo=A0?= writes:
O

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-20-...GFCS/100210432

yep, I went to Home Depot's website and that's the one I found...
only the closest Home Depot to my house no longer carries any Cutler
Hammer products.

Considering the price, it was cheaper to just get a standard breaker
(elsewhere) and a GFCI outlet.

Plus as was mentioned...the dishwasher can just be unplugged if it needs
to be pulled out and worked on.


I am curious where the GFCI outlet for the dishwasher will be located --
maybe in a cabinet space next to the dishwasher? -- similar to how an
over-the-range microwave outlet is often located in a cabinet space above
the microwave? I am assuming that the dishwasher GFCI outlet would need to
be located someplace where it could be reset if it trips without having to
pull the dishwasher out first to reset the GFCI.

On 11/18/2014 08:33 PM, TomR wrote:

snip


I am curious where the GFCI outlet for the dishwasher will be located --
maybe in a cabinet space next to the dishwasher? -- similar to how an
over-the-range microwave outlet is often located in a cabinet space
above the microwave? I am assuming that the dishwasher GFCI outlet
would need to be located someplace where it could be reset if it trips
without having to pull the dishwasher out first to reset the GFCI.



I am going to put the outlet in the cabinet under the sink. It will be
easy to access in the event it trips. The home owner will of course be
informed.

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 11/18/2014 08:33 PM, TomR wrote:

snip

I am curious where the GFCI outlet for the dishwasher will be located --
maybe in a cabinet space next to the dishwasher? -- similar to how an
over-the-range microwave outlet is often located in a cabinet space
above the microwave? I am assuming that the dishwasher GFCI outlet
would need to be located someplace where it could be reset if it trips
without having to pull the dishwasher out first to reset the GFCI.

I am going to put the outlet in the cabinet under the sink. It will be
easy to access in the event it trips. The home owner will of course be
informed.


Got it.

On Tuesday, November 18, 2014 7:13:01 PM UTC-5, John G wrote:
That GFCI on the dish washer is a new requirement in the 2014 code.

Just curious: so dishwashers have been installed without GFCI for 60
or so years. Now they need to have GFCI. What has changed to require
the code intrusion? Are a lot of people suddenly getting electrocuted
or have a lot of people always been getting electrocuted and the code
writers just deciding to do something about it?

Or were the code writers just bored this year?


*The explanation given in my code class (If I remember correctly) was that the controls for dishwashers are becoming more and more electronic and less and less mechanical. The electronic components insulating ability breaks down over time and current can leak to the metal frame thereby creating a shock hazard.

It's not much of a shock hazard if the metal frame is grounded, which has been
a code requirement for a very long time. The poster raises a good question..
It would be interesting to see if they have any real world data that justifies
making this GFCI or if they have no data to back it up.