Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?
--
Pete Cresswell

On Friday, November 14, 2014 2:18:06 PM UTC-5, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?
--
Pete Cresswell

While not made for exactly this situation, Deoxit (the D5 spray) seems to do a pretty good job.

nate

On 11/14/2014 3:52 PM, N8N wrote:
On Friday, November 14, 2014 2:18:06 PM UTC-5, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?
--
Pete Cresswell

While not made for exactly this situation, Deoxit
(the D5 spray) seems to do a pretty good job.

nate

We had this thread a couple months ago. I don't
remember all the great ideas, but Caig Deoxit
does sound familiar.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/14/2014 10:17 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?

Use a solution of one teaspoon of baking soda and one cup of water. Also
good to clean car battery terminals.

Hopefully the metal parts underneath are not corroded beyond use.

Tim Sprout

On 11/14/2014 5:07 PM, Tim Sprout wrote:
On 11/14/2014 10:17 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?

Use a solution of one teaspoon of baking soda and one cup of water. Also
good to clean car battery terminals.

Hopefully the metal parts underneath are not corroded beyond use.

Tim Sprout

Why would you use bicarbonate to remove an alkaline?

I'd have expected acid such as vinegar or CLR?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/14/2014 1:08 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/14/2014 5:07 PM, Tim Sprout wrote:
On 11/14/2014 10:17 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?

Use a solution of one teaspoon of baking soda and one cup of water. Also
good to clean car battery terminals.

Hopefully the metal parts underneath are not corroded beyond use.

Tim Sprout

Why would you use bicarbonate to remove an alkaline?

I'd have expected acid such as vinegar or CLR?


Battery corrosion is acid buildup.

Tim Sprout

On 11/14/2014 5:14 PM, Tim Sprout wrote:
On 11/14/2014 1:08 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/14/2014 5:07 PM, Tim Sprout wrote:
On 11/14/2014 10:17 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.
Why would you use bicarbonate to remove an alkaline?

I'd have expected acid such as vinegar or CLR?


Battery corrosion is acid buildup.

Tim Sprout

What kind of flash light batteries have acid?
Certainly, not Duracell or Energizer Alkalines?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/14/2014 2:17 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?


Pete, what kind of batteries are these?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/14/2014 5:42 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?


Pete, what kind of batteries are these?


Please forgive my brain failure. Alkaline
battery leakage. Sorry.

Anyhow, I've heard that Caig Deoxit does
OK for this task.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/14/2014 5:14 PM, Tim Sprout wrote:
On 11/14/2014 1:08 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Why would you use bicarbonate to remove an alkaline?

I'd have expected acid such as vinegar or CLR?


Battery corrosion is acid buildup.

Tim Sprout

How does one get acid buildup out of alkaline
batteries?

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Per Stormin Mormon:
Pete, what kind of batteries are these?

Can't swear to it, but my guess would be Mallory Duracells - which I
used to use exclusively until losing a few gadgets to them.
--
Pete Cresswell

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 13:07:05 -0900, Tim Sprout
wrote:

On 11/14/2014 10:17 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?

Use a solution of one teaspoon of baking soda and one cup of water. Also
good to clean car battery terminals.

I'm not saying this would work for a flashlight, probab not, but

For the car, I'm so lazy I don't bother to make a solution, like I was
told to do. I just pour on the baking soda and slowly pour on hot
water until it stops bubbling. Then I figure I'm done.

I thought I had to remove the baking sode from the fridge in my NY
apartment when I left, as part of cleaning the place, so I took it with
me. Then there was another box in the fridge here. Since I ony use
the baking soda for absorbinhg odors in the fridge, which has some
special surface and never has odors., it took 25 years to use up the
firsrt box of baking soda, cleaning car batteries.

Now I'm on the second box. but I haven't used any yet.

Hopefully the metal parts underneath are not corroded beyond use.

Tim Sprout

On 11/14/14, 3:52 PM, N8N wrote:
On Friday, November 14, 2014 2:18:06 PM UTC-5, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?
--
Pete Cresswell

While not made for exactly this situation, Deoxit (the D5 spray) seems to do a pretty good job.

nate

It sounds as if the first step is to get rid of the potassium hydroxide.
Deoxit D5 is 95% propellant and naphtha and 5% D100L, a trade secret.
It doesn't sound good for removing potassium hydroxide.

I'd use vinegar. I don't know how long it would take. CLR is stronger.
Then I'd rinse thoroughly.

When I had to dry a light where I couldn't get to the switch, I used
rubbing alcohol to get most of the water out. I'd turn an oven on for a
couple of minutes, turn it off, and check the temperature with an IR
thermometer. I was looking for about 125F. I'd put the light in, go
about my business, and come back to warm the oven again. In 24 hours
the light was dry. Maybe an incandescent bulb would maintain a good
drying temperature.

The D5 spray sounds like a good way to get D100L to an inaccessible switch.

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?

Water, then clean, apply deoxit, wd40 or your favorite lube. Sometimes the
plating comes off and your in trouble.

Greg

J Burns wrote:
On 11/14/14, 3:52 PM, N8N wrote:
On Friday, November 14, 2014 2:18:06 PM UTC-5, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?
--
Pete Cresswell

While not made for exactly this situation, Deoxit (the D5 spray) seems
to do a pretty good job.

nate

It sounds as if the first step is to get rid of the potassium hydroxide.
Deoxit D5 is 95% propellant and naphtha and 5% D100L, a trade secret. It
doesn't sound good for removing potassium hydroxide.


You can get the d100 100 % solution. It's red. Don't know what's in it.
The original red solution by cramolin had oleic acid in it. It cleans well.
Caig did not make cramolin. They imported it. Electricall by caig had a 10
% solution, no longer available. The caig 100 % solution in the dispenser
works pretty well compared to the sprays.

You can also clean with oleic acid. Olive oil has oleic acid. You can also
use that, but must be removed prior to using. Some use oleic acid and
naphtha. I would use alcohol instead.

I'd use vinegar. I don't know how long it would take. CLR is stronger.
Then I'd rinse thoroughly.

When I had to dry a light where I couldn't get to the switch, I used
rubbing alcohol to get most of the water out. I'd turn an oven on for a
couple of minutes, turn it off, and check the temperature with an IR
thermometer. I was looking for about 125F. I'd put the light in, go
about my business, and come back to warm the oven again. In 24 hours the
light was dry. Maybe an incandescent bulb would maintain a good drying temperature.

The D5 spray sounds like a good way to get D100L to an inaccessible switch.

Guess what. I did cleaner testing over 10 years ago. I never made a video
back then. I tested several sprays and stuff. As I indicated, some stuff is
best dissolved with water. Here, a guy tested three things, similar to the
test I did. I'll post my test later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jg6FmNTNv98

Greg

gregz wrote:
J Burns wrote:
On 11/14/14, 3:52 PM, N8N wrote:
On Friday, November 14, 2014 2:18:06 PM UTC-5, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?
--
Pete Cresswell

While not made for exactly this situation, Deoxit (the D5 spray) seems
to do a pretty good job.

nate

It sounds as if the first step is to get rid of the potassium hydroxide.
Deoxit D5 is 95% propellant and naphtha and 5% D100L, a trade secret. It
doesn't sound good for removing potassium hydroxide.


You can get the d100 100 % solution. It's red. Don't know what's in it.
The original red solution by cramolin had oleic acid in it. It cleans well.
Caig did not make cramolin. They imported it. Electricall by caig had a 10
% solution, no longer available. The caig 100 % solution in the dispenser
works pretty well compared to the sprays.

You can also clean with oleic acid. Olive oil has oleic acid. You can also
use that, but must be removed prior to using. Some use oleic acid and
naphtha. I would use alcohol instead.

I'd use vinegar. I don't know how long it would take. CLR is stronger.
Then I'd rinse thoroughly.

When I had to dry a light where I couldn't get to the switch, I used
rubbing alcohol to get most of the water out. I'd turn an oven on for a
couple of minutes, turn it off, and check the temperature with an IR
thermometer. I was looking for about 125F. I'd put the light in, go
about my business, and come back to warm the oven again. In 24 hours the
light was dry. Maybe an incandescent bulb would maintain a good drying temperature.

The D5 spray sounds like a good way to get D100L to an inaccessible switch.

Guess what. I did cleaner testing over 10 years ago. I never made a video
back then. I tested several sprays and stuff. As I indicated, some stuff is
best dissolved with water. Here, a guy tested three things, similar to the
test I did. I'll post my test later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jg6FmNTNv98

Greg

Me.

http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/cleaner.htm

Greg

On 11/14/2014 01:17 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?




The suggestions you received will probably work if the leakage is minor
but it sounds like you have a major mess on your hands.

The last LED flashlight I bought was only $3 or so, I would not bother
trying to fix it if it went bad

On 11/14/2014 8:26 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Stormin Mormon:
Pete, what kind of batteries are these?

Can't swear to it, but my guess would be Mallory Duracells - which I
used to use exclusively until losing a few gadgets to them.

I had some how not noticed you wrote alkalines.
Wasn't sure if they were carbon zincs, lithium,
etc.

Anyhow, yes, I've also had Duracells leak, and
Rayovacs. Not sure why they are having quality
problems.

I hope you get your light working again.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Friday, November 14, 2014 10:46:27 PM UTC-5, J Burns wrote:
On 11/14/14, 3:52 PM, N8N wrote:
On Friday, November 14, 2014 2:18:06 PM UTC-5, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.

Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.

Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?
--
Pete Cresswell

While not made for exactly this situation, Deoxit (the D5 spray) seems to do a pretty good job.

nate

It sounds as if the first step is to get rid of the potassium hydroxide.
Deoxit D5 is 95% propellant and naphtha and 5% D100L, a trade secret.
It doesn't sound good for removing potassium hydroxide.

I'd use vinegar. I don't know how long it would take. CLR is stronger.
Then I'd rinse thoroughly.

When I had to dry a light where I couldn't get to the switch, I used
rubbing alcohol to get most of the water out. I'd turn an oven on for a
couple of minutes, turn it off, and check the temperature with an IR
thermometer. I was looking for about 125F. I'd put the light in, go
about my business, and come back to warm the oven again. In 24 hours
the light was dry. Maybe an incandescent bulb would maintain a good
drying temperature.

The D5 spray sounds like a good way to get D100L to an inaccessible switch.


I can't explain it but it works. Better than plain old water.

If I'd had something like Electromotive handy last time I had to do this I probably would have tried that first, then finished with Deoxit for protection.

May I suggest some nice Eneloops (Duracell Ion Core are supposedly rebrands) for a regularly used light, or some Energizer lithium primaries for an emergency light? That's what I've gone to due to my own disgust with the seeming increased frequency of alkalines leaking.

nate

Per Stormin Mormon:

I hope you get your light working again.

I did. Thanks.

Turns out there was another way to get to the affected parts: a
screw-out piece that took a pin wrench, but was not obviously removable
because of the corrosion. Strap wrench, pin wrench.... a little careful
torque, and I was in business.

Gave up on chemical means and just used a razor blade to physically
remove the corrosion that was obviously preventing a circuit. Was
surprised at how much of the aluminum went away when I scraped the
corrosion off - arguing for use of the proper chemical to reconstitute
the alu instead of just carving it away.

Tangentially, this light cost about thirty bucks at Lowe's over five
years ago. Just bought a box of three flashlights that are even
brighter at Costco for fifteen bucks total (i.e. $5.00 per flashlight)
and they even came with batteries).

Only feature of the old light that wins out over the $5.00 lights is
that the $5.00 lights take three AAA batteries and the old ones take a
couple of C batteries which gives them an extremely long life in use.
--
Pete Cresswell

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
...
Per Stormin Mormon:

I hope you get your light working again.

I did. Thanks.

Turns out there was another way to get to the affected parts: a
screw-out piece that took a pin wrench, but was not obviously removable
because of the corrosion. Strap wrench, pin wrench.... a little careful
torque, and I was in business.

Gave up on chemical means and just used a razor blade to physically
remove the corrosion that was obviously preventing a circuit. Was
surprised at how much of the aluminum went away when I scraped the
corrosion off - arguing for use of the proper chemical to reconstitute
the alu instead of just carving it away.

Tangentially, this light cost about thirty bucks at Lowe's over five
years ago. Just bought a box of three flashlights that are even
brighter at Costco for fifteen bucks total (i.e. $5.00 per flashlight)
and they even came with batteries).

Only feature of the old light that wins out over the $5.00 lights is
that the $5.00 lights take three AAA batteries and the old ones take a
couple of C batteries which gives them an extremely long life in use.
--
Pete Cresswell

but if the batteries go dead sooner, you will be more likely to replace them
before the start to ooze.

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 17:08:26 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Use a solution of one teaspoon of baking soda and one cup of water. Also
good to clean car battery terminals.

Hopefully the metal parts underneath are not corroded beyond use.

Tim Sprout

Why would you use bicarbonate to remove an alkaline?

I'd have expected acid such as vinegar or CLR?

(white vinegar)

Ketchup (Catsup) may do the job?

Per Pico Rico:
but if the batteries go dead sooner, you will be more likely to replace them
before the start to ooze.


Point taken.
--
Pete Cresswell

On 11/15/2014 9:48 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Stormin Mormon:

I hope you get your light working again.

I did. Thanks.

Turns out there was another way to get to the affected parts: a
screw-out piece that took a pin wrench, but was not obviously removable
because of the corrosion. Strap wrench, pin wrench.... a little careful
torque, and I was in business.

Gave up on chemical means and just used a razor blade to physically
remove the corrosion that was obviously preventing a circuit. Was
surprised at how much of the aluminum went away when I scraped the
corrosion off - arguing for use of the proper chemical to reconstitute
the alu instead of just carving it away.

Tangentially, this light cost about thirty bucks at Lowe's over five
years ago. Just bought a box of three flashlights that are even
brighter at Costco for fifteen bucks total (i.e. $5.00 per flashlight)
and they even came with batteries).

Only feature of the old light that wins out over the $5.00 lights is
that the $5.00 lights take three AAA batteries and the old ones take a
couple of C batteries which gives them an extremely long life in use.


Nice to hear when something works out. The AAA lights
probably fit in a pocket, easier.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 11/15/14, 8:46 AM, N8N wrote:
I can't explain it but it works. Better than plain old water.

If I'd had something like Electromotive handy last time I had to do
this I probably would have tried that first, then finished with
Deoxit for protection.

May I suggest some nice Eneloops (Duracell Ion Core are supposedly
rebrands) for a regularly used light, or some Energizer lithium
primaries for an emergency light? That's what I've gone to due to my
own disgust with the seeming increased frequency of alkalines
leaking.

nate

The contact cleaners I've used are solvents that leave no residue. It
seems as if cleaners that leave a film, should have another name.

It seems the users who recommend Deoxit at Amazon, use it for
potentiometers. I've always found that the no-residue kind works fine
for potentiometers.

The NiCad battery pack had leaked KOH into my Isotip. Warm water
cleaned up the deposits.

The copper is stained. In this circuit, 0.05 ohm where it makes contact
would be too much. Sometimes corroded contacts that are cleaned up,
won't work reliably in the future.

I wonder if Deoxit would make sure the stained copper in my Isotip would
continue to make good contact.

I have a cordless phone with a headset. If I leave it plugged in a
couple of days, the incoming and outgoing sound gets scratchy. If I
wipe the plug on my shirt, that fixes it. I wonder if Deoxit would
prevent that problem.

On 11/15/14, 3:21 AM, gregz wrote:

Guess what. I did cleaner testing over 10 years ago. I never made a video
back then. I tested several sprays and stuff. As I indicated, some stuff is
best dissolved with water. Here, a guy tested three things, similar to the
test I did. I'll post my test later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jg6FmNTNv98

Greg

Me.

http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/cleaner.htm

Greg

It seems like three kinds of cleaners. One has solvents that don't
affect metals or plastics and leave no residue. Another has solvents
and leaves a film. A third would brighten tarnished copper.

I've read that when power companies connect transmission lines, they
don't care if the copper is dull with copper oxide. Dull copper doesn't
solder well, but does it add significant resistance to contacts?

J Burns wrote:
On 11/15/14, 3:21 AM, gregz wrote:

Guess what. I did cleaner testing over 10 years ago. I never made a video
back then. I tested several sprays and stuff. As I indicated, some stuff is
best dissolved with water. Here, a guy tested three things, similar to the
test I did. I'll post my test later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jg6FmNTNv98

Greg

Me.

http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/cleaner.htm

Greg

It seems like three kinds of cleaners. One has solvents that don't
affect metals or plastics and leave no residue. Another has solvents and
leaves a film. A third would brighten tarnished copper.

I've read that when power companies connect transmission lines, they
don't care if the copper is dull with copper oxide. Dull copper doesn't
solder well, but does it add significant resistance to contacts?

Connections usually involve breaking through the surface. Lubricants help
break through the surface scum. High current arching also break through,
but seem problematic being intermittent.

Greg

On 11/14/2014 1:47 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/14/2014 5:14 PM, Tim Sprout wrote:
On 11/14/2014 1:08 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Why would you use bicarbonate to remove an alkaline?

I'd have expected acid such as vinegar or CLR?


Battery corrosion is acid buildup.

Tim Sprout

How does one get acid buildup out of alkaline
batteries?

-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

One doesn't. Thanks for the correction.

Tim Sprout