My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries
leaked. I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end
cap. The strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Tuesday, July 16, 2013 5:47:12 PM UTC-4, BeeJ wrote:
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries

leaked. I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end

cap. The strap wrench would not work.



So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not

allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.



It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.


Soak it in warm water (that's right, water). Disassemble and dry out completely.

John-Del wrote :
On Tuesday, July 16, 2013 5:47:12 PM UTC-4, BeeJ wrote:
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries

leaked. I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end

cap. The strap wrench would not work.



So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not

allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.



It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.


Soak it in warm water (that's right, water). Disassemble and dry out
completely.

Ahh .. the universal solvent. We'll see and I will let you know.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

Try household ammonia, followed by an alcohol flush. "It works for me."

On 07/16/2013 02:47 PM, BeeJ wrote:
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries
leaked. I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end
cap. The strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

White vinegar

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 14:47:12 -0700, BeeJ wrote:

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

I use 409 "all purpose" cleaner. Vinegar will also work. If you see
it foaming slightly, it's working. Don't use drain cleaner (sodium
hydroxide) as it will strip the anodizing.

If the expensive aluminum flashlight is a genuine Maglight, you can
buy parts and pieces to fix the flashlight. For example:
http://www.zbattery.com/Maglite-Parts

Hint: Wrap the batteries in cellophane wrap. The batteries will
still leak for no obvious reason but the mess will be contained.

If you're really into flashlights:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forum.php

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

John-Del wrote:
On Tuesday, July 16, 2013 5:47:12 PM UTC-4, BeeJ wrote:
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries

leaked. I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end

cap. The strap wrench would not work.



So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not

allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.



It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.


Soak it in warm water (that's right, water). Disassemble and dry out completely.

Never had a flashlight like that, but if the water does not let you take
the batteries out, try banging on it. Even heat up the outside shell. Water
dissolves the crud well, but on some things, you can't dunk. An oxidized
aluminum piece, water is not going to dissolve that, where the vinegar
might do something.

I have to work on an old military/boy scout flashlight. I put in an led
replacement, but the light will sometimes come on dim. I'll try a dab of
vinegar on the switch. I already tried crc2-26 , but might have to clean
that off first.

Greg

On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 14:47:12 -0700, BeeJ wrote:

My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries
leaked. I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end
cap. The strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.

Apparently, it's a Maglite. The light bulb end of the battery tube is
closed, so you can't pound the batteries out of the flashlight. I
spent about a week trying to free some swollen alkaline D batteries
from a 3D cell Maglite without success. I even tried a pressure bath
with a mild acid to hopefully dissolve the "glue".

It was time to use "the force". I found a 1.25" end mill with a 1/4"
pilot. I put the flashlight into a lathe, and carefully drilled a
1/4" hole through the center of the batteries. I followed that with
the 1.25" end mill (mounted on an extender bar). I could probably
have used a wood auger bit, but I didn't have one large enough. That
removed most of the battery, but there was still a thin layer of
corossion along the inside of the tube. I removed that by beating on
it with a wooden dowl. Big chunks of aluminum came out, indicating
that the wall of the flashlight tube had thinned and would probably
cave in if the flashlight were dropped. I cleaned up the mess with
some sandpaper, sprayed the inside with clear acrylic, and vowed not
to do that again. I keep it in the house for when I need to loan
someone a flashlight.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann used his keyboard to write :
On Tue, 16 Jul 2013 14:47:12 -0700, BeeJ wrote:

My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries leaked.
I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end cap. The
strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminum.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.

Apparently, it's a Maglite.

Not. But when I unscrew the lamp (LED) end there is a circuit board.
I tried to wiggle it but it seems solid and I did not want to break it.
Now that I have the other end off and will try to get the batteries out
without messing with the lamp end.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On 07/16/2013 02:47 PM, BeeJ wrote:
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries
leaked. I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end
cap. The strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

These were Duracells, weren't they? Al Dunlap destroyed that company.

On Thu, 18 Jul 2013 16:01:19 -0700, Mick Nowell
wrote:

Man! That must be an expensive flashlight.

Non-paying customer, also known as a friend. I stupidly offered to
fix it for him, without thinking much about what it will involve. Once
I start on something, I either fix it, or destroy it.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Wed, 17 Jul 2013 06:47:10 -0700, dave wrote:

On 07/16/2013 02:47 PM, BeeJ wrote:
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries
leaked. I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end
cap. The strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

These were Duracells, weren't they? Al Dunlap destroyed that company.

Pray tell more. I always wondered what the "copper top" bit was in their
ads.
--
Boris

On 07/19/2013 04:33 AM, Boris Mohar wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jul 2013 06:47:10 -0700, dave wrote:

On 07/16/2013 02:47 PM, BeeJ wrote:
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries
leaked. I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end
cap. The strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

These were Duracells, weren't they? Al Dunlap destroyed that company.

Pray tell more. I always wondered what the "copper top" bit was in their
ads.


A Sennheiser tech rep told me that Procells (industrial labeled
Duracells) sometimes don't have enough electrolyte to fill the can and
that they no longer recommend using them. Energizers seem better to me,
and I used hundreds of double AAs a day.

"dave" wrote in message
m...

A Sennheiser tech rep told me that Procells (industrial labeled Duracells)
sometimes don't have enough electrolyte to fill the
can and that they no longer recommend using them. Energizers
seem better to me, and I used hundreds of double AAs a day.

My experience has been that Duracells are more likely to leak. (In one case,
Duracell had to pay for a repair.) I've never had a leaky Energizer.

William Sommerwerck wrote:
I've never had a leaky Energizer.


I've had some Energizers leak.

The batteries that almost always leak are the yellow ones from Ikea and alcalines from DIA, they wear custom labels and their real brand is not indicated but I guess is the same for both.

On Sat, 20 Jul 2013, Jeroni Paul wrote:

William Sommerwerck wrote:
I've never had a leaky Energizer.


I've had some Energizers leak.

The batteries that almost always leak are the yellow ones from Ikea and
alcalines from DIA, they wear custom labels and their real brand is not
indicated but I guess is the same for both.

What's interesting is, where the things go after the batteries leak.

I few years back I got a Grundig Satellite 700 shortwave portable, a
pretty decent portable, for 2.00 at a Rotary Club garage sale. I don't
think they knew what it was, so just priced it as a generic radio. But I
get home, and it still has batteries in it, and they leaked. I think I
got rid of all the spill.

But just today I was at a thrift shop and found a Casio keyboard, some
things different from the average one. And from history, I check the
battery compartment, and yes, there is signs of battery leakage. But I
didn't spend much on it.

But one wonders if the stuff is given away because someone has already
stopped using it, and the batteries forgotten, or if they are given away
because the batteries leaked?

Michael

Jeroni Paul wrote:

The batteries that almost always leak are the yellow ones from Ikea.
and alcalines from DIA, they wear custom labels and
their real brand is not indicated but I guess is the same for both.

The worst batteries I have ever bought were Office Depot private brand,
which swelled and leaked almost the day I bought them.

The second worse are Everyready Energizers made under license in Singapore,
which last less than a week in use. A week being 7 calendar days, where
they should last 30 hours of use and get used at the most 10 minutes
a day. Some of have have only lasted a day. We bought them last week.

Previous Everyready batteries were sold here in Israel were made in the
EU, as far as I can recall Belgium.


The Office Depot brand were sold several years ago. They were made somewhere
in China, and Office Depot stopped selling them and started relabing
Great Peak brand made in Hong Kong.
They did not seem to be different than the Great Peak (aka GP) ones they
already sold.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379

On Fri, 19 Jul 2013 07:36:04 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

My experience has been that Duracells are more likely to leak. (In one case,
Duracell had to pay for a repair.) I've never had a leaky Energizer.

Leak? How about explode when the terminals are shorted?
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/Duracell/index.html
To be fair, these may have been counterfeit, but we tossed the remains
and it's now too late to check.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 23:27:31 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

To be fair, these may have been counterfeit, but we tossed the remains
and it's now too late to check.

Speaking of fake batteries, here's an amazing video of a fake 18650
LiIon battery:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOshOXcSkDA
and for those that like to pruchase by brand name on eBay:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCm69-iowZo
--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

Speaking of fake batteries, here's an amazing video of a fake 18650
LiIon battery:

There have been for several years, restrictions on the sending of lithium
ion batteries by international mail. About six months ago, the Hong Kong
post started enforcing them.

This caused them to stop accepting packages with 3500 mAh or larger Lithium
Ion batteries in them.

It was only for batteries sold alone, the same battery attached to a
radio, or even in the box with a radio, was legal.

Several of the vendors of radios there got around the problem by placing
a sticker over the one on the battery with one that said it was NiMH.

There was a piece of paper included in the package that told the purchaser
to remove the sitcker so that the correct one could be seen.

Geoff.


--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote in
:

Jeroni Paul wrote:

The batteries that almost always leak are the yellow ones from Ikea.
and alcalines from DIA, they wear custom labels and
their real brand is not indicated but I guess is the same for both.

The worst batteries I have ever bought were Office Depot private
brand, which swelled and leaked almost the day I bought them.

The second worse are Everyready Energizers made under license in
Singapore, which last less than a week in use. A week being 7 calendar
days, where they should last 30 hours of use and get used at the most
10 minutes a day. Some of have have only lasted a day. We bought them
last week.

Previous Everyready batteries were sold here in Israel were made in
the EU, as far as I can recall Belgium.


The Office Depot brand were sold several years ago. They were made
somewhere in China, and Office Depot stopped selling them and started
relabing Great Peak brand made in Hong Kong.
They did not seem to be different than the Great Peak (aka GP) ones
they already sold.

Geoff.

I've been buying Radio Shack batteries for a while, but I think I won't
bother in the future. I've even had them leak in the package. They have
great prices, especially on sale, but the money saved won't pay for a
single item that gets ruined when the things leak.

I've also had problems with Duracells. Only a few Eveready's have leaked
that I can recall, but I'm guessing they are now all made in China, and
the brand differences are both smaller and time varying.

Doug White

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...

Leak? How about explode when the terminals are shorted?

And an egg shouldn't break when you drop it...

Doug White wrote:

I've been buying Radio Shack batteries for a while, but I think I won't
bother in the future. I've even had them leak in the package. They have
great prices, especially on sale, but the money saved won't pay for a
single item that gets ruined when the things leak.

Back when I was in junior high school (late 1960's) Radio Shack battery
cards were a prized item. I had several, and the free batteries they
provided were well worth the trip, and buying other things to keep the
salesmen happy.

That was a long time ago.

Geoff.



--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379

On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 06:21:25 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
.. .

Leak? How about explode when the terminals are shorted?

I later tested a real Duracell Procell 9v battery. It did NOT explode
when shorted. My guess(tm) is that the counterfeit battery lacked
over-pressure vents in the cells.

And an egg shouldn't break when you drop it...

When I was an aspiring juvenile delinquent, my parents loaned me to
relatives for a summer on their chicken ranch. I managed to learn the
basics of egg production, which included basic wisdom like "don't drop
the eggs" and "chickens are really dumb". I soon learned that there
was a science to egg dropping. The amount of calcium in the chicken's
diet was regulated to control the shell thickness. Too little, and
the shells would break. Too much, and you needed a hammer to make an
omlette. Today, the shell thickness is measured on the production
line with ultrasonic or RF measurement devices. Back then, it was the
drop test. As the eggs rolled through the machinery, and were
seperated by weight, there was a drop which tested for thin shells.
Thick shells were sampled manually. There should be something online
about it... yep:
http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1006&context=it_fac
Batteries shouldn't explode and egg shells shouldn't break, but it's
always best to test such assumptions.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:39:27 GMT, Doug White
wrote:

Only a few Eveready's have leaked
that I can recall, but I'm guessing they are now all made in China, and
the brand differences are both smaller and time varying.

Made in China. The Home Depot battery has a label with an American
flag and "Made in America" on it, but when peeled back, discloses the
"Made in China":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mE7Ftvnhj5o

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sun, 21 Jul 2013, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

Doug White wrote:

I've been buying Radio Shack batteries for a while, but I think I won't
bother in the future. I've even had them leak in the package. They have
great prices, especially on sale, but the money saved won't pay for a
single item that gets ruined when the things leak.

Back when I was in junior high school (late 1960's) Radio Shack battery
cards were a prized item. I had several, and the free batteries they
provided were well worth the trip, and buying other things to keep the
salesmen happy.

That was a long time ago.

The battery cards lasted a long time, I think into the eighties.

I know I got one in the early seventies when Radio Shack started setting
up in Canada, but I never used it more than the first time. A single
battery isn't very useful, and they were just carbon zinc batteries.
Radio Shack even seemed to have more than one level of carbon zinc, but
the ones they gave away where the cheapest.

A more useful routine was when the local Radio Shacks offered to fill
something up every Wednesday in the summer, 75 or 76. A friend had lots
of stuff, so he'd organize us to visit various stores, filling up his
cheap radio controlled boat, his Radio Shack 5w CB walkie talkie, his
flashlight that took about 4 D cells. And it worked a bit, then one store
owner didn't like us kids going in in such an organized fashion, and
bascially through us out.

But, at least with this scheme one could actually use the batteries,
instead of waiting six months to have enough D cells for the remote
controlled boat.

Those too were the cheapest batteries they carried.

Michael

On Sun, 21 Jul 2013, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:39:27 GMT, Doug White
wrote:

Only a few Eveready's have leaked
that I can recall, but I'm guessing they are now all made in China, and
the brand differences are both smaller and time varying.

Made in China. The Home Depot battery has a label with an American
flag and "Made in America" on it, but when peeled back, discloses the
"Made in China":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mE7Ftvnhj5o

The ones I like best are the ones that mostly replicate the Duracell
packaging, so initially you think they are Duracell at a great price.
Only when you look at the actual brand do you see it's something else.

No, I've never bought them, but if you're going to do knockoffs, that's
the way to do it.

Michael

When it comes to cheap AAs, I buy Costco (which are Maxell (Hitachi), I
believe). Consumer Reports has consistently top-rated them for capacity and
cheapness, and I've never had reason to complain.

On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 13:38:11 -0400, Michael Black
wrote:

The ones I like best are the ones that mostly replicate the Duracell
packaging, so initially you think they are Duracell at a great price.
Only when you look at the actual brand do you see it's something else.

Those were featured in the video I previously posted:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCm69-iowZo
However, I just went searching for such counterfeit batteries on eBay,
and couldn't find any. Looks like eBay has done some enforcing.

Would you buy a "Volcano" brand AA battery?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151084744245
My personal favorites are the variations of the word "fire" found in
18650 LiIon cells. Trustfire, Truefire, Ultrafire, Fireworm,
Marsfire, etc. That really gives me that confident feeling about
those batteries.

I won't mention eBay battery chargers that appear to be designed to
intentionally kill batteries.

No, I've never bought them, but if you're going to do knockoffs, that's
the way to do it.

I've bought counterfeits at flea markets and hamfests when I'm not
paying attention. When sold by the white box, I don't think it's
possible to tell the difference just looking at the case markings. I
have the same problem with counterfeit cell phone batteries. Oddly, I
haven't seen any counterfeit laptop batteries.

Comparison of battery capacity for various AA alkaline cells:
http://www.powerstream.com/AA-tests.htm
Looks like Radio Shack batteries are better than most. I've done
similar tests using my West Mtn Radio CBA-II battery analyzer and
found Costco Kirkland AA batteries to be the best compromise between
price and capacity.




--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Apparently, it's a Maglite.



Not. But when I unscrew the lamp (LED) end there is a circuit board.

I tried to wiggle it but it seems solid and I did not want to break it.

That's interesting: It would explain why I have a drawer full of new looking Maglite torches which I had been hoarding in the hope of interchanging parts one day and getting a w0rking light. Never been able to manage it despite their all looking so shiny and new, some of them even being in the original box! Is this Maglite (the AA as well as the AAA version) really such a POS unit?

On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:19:56 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 13:38:11 -0400, Michael Black
wrote:

The ones I like best are the ones that mostly replicate the Duracell
packaging, so initially you think they are Duracell at a great price.
Only when you look at the actual brand do you see it's something else.

Those were featured in the video I previously posted:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCm69-iowZo
However, I just went searching for such counterfeit batteries on eBay,
and couldn't find any. Looks like eBay has done some enforcing.

Would you buy a "Volcano" brand AA battery?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151084744245
My personal favorites are the variations of the word "fire" found in
18650 LiIon cells. Trustfire, Truefire, Ultrafire, Fireworm,
Marsfire, etc. That really gives me that confident feeling about
those batteries.

I won't mention eBay battery chargers that appear to be designed to
intentionally kill batteries.

No, I've never bought them, but if you're going to do knockoffs, that's
the way to do it.

I've bought counterfeits at flea markets and hamfests when I'm not
paying attention. When sold by the white box, I don't think it's
possible to tell the difference just looking at the case markings. I
have the same problem with counterfeit cell phone batteries. Oddly, I
haven't seen any counterfeit laptop batteries.

Comparison of battery capacity for various AA alkaline cells:
http://www.powerstream.com/AA-tests.htm
Looks like Radio Shack batteries are better than most. I've done
similar tests using my West Mtn Radio CBA-II battery analyzer and
found Costco Kirkland AA batteries to be the best compromise between
price and capacity.





--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

BeeJ laid this down on his screen :
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries leaked. I
had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end cap. The strap
wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not allow
the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

Tried white vinegar soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was
loosened.

Tried CLR soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

So, any other better solvents? I do not have any hydrofluoric around.
I do have pool HCl.

I cannot identify the battery brand.

May have to take a large drill bit to it and try to extract.

Suggestions please.

This may be a double post. First PC may or may not have sent it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

BeeJ wrote:
BeeJ laid this down on his screen :
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries leaked.
I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end cap.
The strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

Tried white vinegar soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

Tried CLR soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

So, any other better solvents? I do not have any hydrofluoric around.
I do have pool HCl.

I cannot identify the battery brand.

May have to take a large drill bit to it and try to extract.

Suggestions please.

This may be a double post. First PC may or may not have sent it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

Question is, what is the crud. Might try phosphoric acid from auto paint
dept or aluminum jelly.

Greg

"BeeJ" wrote in message
...
BeeJ laid this down on his screen :
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries leaked.
I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end cap. The
strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

Tried white vinegar soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was
loosened.

Tried CLR soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

So, any other better solvents? I do not have any hydrofluoric around.
I do have pool HCl.

I cannot identify the battery brand.

May have to take a large drill bit to it and try to extract.

Suggestions please.

This may be a double post. First PC may or may not have sent it.



Screw a long course thread drywall or deck screw into the end of the battery
and use it to extract the cell(s).

Tried white vinegar soaked overnight.
Tried CLR soaked overnight.
Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

So, any other better solvents? I do not have any hydrofluoric around.
I do have pool HCl.

Use an alkaline solvent. Household ammonia should work fine.