What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

On 10/28/2014 7:14 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Work hard. Take frequent breaks. Slow down
when you start to get tired. Keep hydrated.
Ibuprofen is your friend. Treat minor wounds
promptly with antibiotic cream, and sterile
bandages.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Frank Thompson wrote:
What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

If you've got a tractor with a frontloader I have a design for a device that
will handle up to a 4 inch tree .

--
Snag

On Tue, 28 Oct 2014 04:14:06 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Cheap labor?

On 10/28/2014 5:58 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 28 Oct 2014 04:14:06 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Cheap labor?


Ask for references.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Tue, 28 Oct 2014 19:40:05 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/28/2014 5:58 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 28 Oct 2014 04:14:06 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Cheap labor?


Ask for references.

..... if they speak redneck, hire them
--
I like Guns and Titties

On Tue, 28 Oct 2014 04:14:06 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Explosives.

On 10/28/2014 9:24 PM, Oren wrote:
What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Cheap labor?


Ask for references.

.... if they speak redneck, hire them


And if only one speaks Spanglish, re consider.

Si, sen~or. Much dynamito. Holde usted mi beer.

What, now?

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Tue, 28 Oct 2014 04:14:06 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Needle nose pliers. Grab the wire rather than the spring and the
brushes should pop right out of the motor.

Ed Pawlowski posted for all of us...



On Tue, 28 Oct 2014 04:14:06 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Needle nose pliers. Grab the wire rather than the spring and the
brushes should pop right out of the motor.
Has the type of brush been determined?

Now Ed you are being too gentle. I would use: a slide hammer to jack them
out. an air chisel and do a little trim job or blow torch.

For field work I use a flamethrower.

For a woman I would use the Rick Harrison Micro Touch or the shaver of the
month club. I mean whom doesn't like those little shavers?

--
Tekkie

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 4:07:02 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Ed Pawlowski posted for all of us...



On Tue, 28 Oct 2014 04:14:06 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Needle nose pliers. Grab the wire rather than the spring and the
brushes should pop right out of the motor.
Has the type of brush been determined?
My apologies for my lack of specificity. The type of brush is the plant type.

On 11/1/2014 6:25 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
What are your recommendations for a brush puller?

Needle nose pliers. Grab the wire rather than the spring and the
brushes should pop right out of the motor.
Has the type of brush been determined?
My apologies for my lack of specificity. The type of brush is the plant type.


What kind of brush motors do you use at the plant
where you work? (I know; I'm being obtuse.)

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

All you need is some heavy rope and a pickup.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0mMLdm7RgQ

On Sat, 01 Nov 2014 11:49:23 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 1 Nov 2014 03:25:09 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

Has the type of brush been determined?

My apologies for my lack of specificity. The type of brush is the plant type.

How big is this brush plant?

Have a truck and a 4" nylon strap 25' long?

Snatch it out!! Tie close to the ground and rip the do-bad out.
I pulled an old pussy willow shrub from my back yarf years ago with
my old Firenza (Vauxhall Viva HC/Magnum) using an old truck rim and
heafy rope. Tied the rope to the rood, run it over the upright rim,
tied to the bumper hitch, and give it a yank. Popped the roor right
out of the ground (rim as close to the root as bossible to give good
lift)

On 11/1/2014 7:53 PM, wrote:

Snatch it out!! Tie close to the ground and rip the do-bad out.


I pulled an old pussy willow shrub from my back yarf years ago with
my old Firenza (Vauxhall Viva HC/Magnum) using an old truck rim and
heafy rope. Tied the rope to the rood, run it over the upright rim,
tied to the bumper hitch, and give it a yank. Popped the roor right
out of the ground (rim as close to the root as bossible to give good
lift)


Only time I took out a tree at my place, I used
a sawzall, and a very large number of HF blades.
That dirt and sand mixed in with the roots really
smooths out the saw blade edges.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 1 Nov 2014 03:25:09 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

Has the type of brush been determined?

My apologies for my lack of specificity. The type of brush is the plant
type.

How big is this brush plant?

Have a truck and a 4" nylon strap 25' long?

Snatch it out!! Tie close to the ground and rip the do-bad out.

I just did that recently and pulled out very large overgrown arborvitae
shrubs and some arborvitae tree stumps. I had to make sure I wrapped the
strap around the base of each a few times instead of doing any kind of knot,
because the knot tended to tighten when pulling and became hard to undo. I
also have a tow hitch on the all-wheel-drive car that I used, so I was able
to attach the strap to the tow hitch to avoid damaging the vehicle. If you
can soak or wet the ground, or do it after a heavy rain, that makes the
plants pull out with less effort.

On Sat, 1 Nov 2014 20:35:53 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 1 Nov 2014 03:25:09 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

Has the type of brush been determined?

My apologies for my lack of specificity. The type of brush is the plant
type.

How big is this brush plant?

Have a truck and a 4" nylon strap 25' long?

Snatch it out!! Tie close to the ground and rip the do-bad out.

I just did that recently and pulled out very large overgrown arborvitae
shrubs and some arborvitae tree stumps. I had to make sure I wrapped the
strap around the base of each a few times instead of doing any kind of knot,
because the knot tended to tighten when pulling and became hard to undo. I
also have a tow hitch on the all-wheel-drive car that I used, so I was able
to attach the strap to the tow hitch to avoid damaging the vehicle. If you
can soak or wet the ground, or do it after a heavy rain, that makes the
plants pull out with less effort.
Watering works better because heavy rain makes the ground too
slippery to pull on.

On Sat, 01 Nov 2014 19:53:16 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 01 Nov 2014 11:49:23 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 1 Nov 2014 03:25:09 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

Has the type of brush been determined?

My apologies for my lack of specificity. The type of brush is the plant type.

How big is this brush plant?

Have a truck and a 4" nylon strap 25' long?

Snatch it out!! Tie close to the ground and rip the do-bad out.

I pulled an old pussy willow shrub from my back yarf years ago with
my old Firenza (Vauxhall Viva HC/Magnum) using an old truck rim and
heafy rope. Tied the rope to the rood, run it over the upright rim,
tied to the bumper hitch, and give it a yank. Popped the roor right
out of the ground (rim as close to the root as bossible to give good
lift)

Thanks. Never heard of using a vehicle wheel rim, now that I think
about it, it makes sense - "pivot leverage"?

Once we did drill a well with a '61 Chevy with an extra rim (two
welded together).

On Sat, 01 Nov 2014 22:16:04 -0400, wrote:

If you
can soak or wet the ground, or do it after a heavy rain, that makes the
plants pull out with less effort.

Watering works better because heavy rain makes the ground too
slippery to pull on.

Dynamite?

On 11/1/14, 7:53 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 01 Nov 2014 11:49:23 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 1 Nov 2014 03:25:09 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

Has the type of brush been determined?

My apologies for my lack of specificity. The type of brush is the plant type.

How big is this brush plant?

Have a truck and a 4" nylon strap 25' long?

Snatch it out!! Tie close to the ground and rip the do-bad out.
I pulled an old pussy willow shrub from my back yarf years ago with
my old Firenza (Vauxhall Viva HC/Magnum) using an old truck rim and
heafy rope. Tied the rope to the rood, run it over the upright rim,
tied to the bumper hitch, and give it a yank. Popped the roor right
out of the ground (rim as close to the root as bossible to give good
lift)

I like the rim idea, but I bought a chain for stuff like that. Seeing
nylon stretch made me very nervous.

On Sun, 02 Nov 2014 15:09:12 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

Seeing nylon stretch made me very nervous.

Flying steel cable makes me more nervous. Same as with tow chains.
Stuff breaks. Nylon strap is the best; if you happen to need a
"mountain winch". Both can kill you or upset your day.

On 11/1/14, 8:16 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/1/2014 7:53 PM, wrote:


Only time I took out a tree at my place, I used
a sawzall, and a very large number of HF blades.
That dirt and sand mixed in with the roots really
smooths out the saw blade edges.

I liked a pickaxe and a hatchet and a sharp sharpshooter. Dulling a
blade isn't so bad if it's easy to sharpen. I might use a chain saw,
but I'd clean up the root with a brush first.

If I could cut some roots, I could use a chain to yank the stump enough
that I could cut the others.

Sometimes it was easier to cut the stump flush. One way was with a
pickaxe and hatchet. The other was with a shovel, brush, and chain saw.

On 11/2/14, 3:21 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2014 15:09:12 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

Seeing nylon stretch made me very nervous.

Flying steel cable makes me more nervous. Same as with tow chains.
Stuff breaks. Nylon strap is the best; if you happen to need a
"mountain winch". Both can kill you or upset your day.

I tried a nylon tow strap once. The tow required a fraction of the
strength listed on the package, but it broke immediately.

Energy is force times distance. The barrel of an M101 is 231cm. If
somebody were to shorten to barrel to 1cm, it wouldn't impart much
energy to the projectile.

One day the tractor sank to its axle, down in a gully. I got the 4WD
pickup and nylon rope. The rope was supposed to have a lot more
strength than the traction of the truck, but as it stretched and
stretched, I thought, "Uh-oh!"

It seemed like looking down the barrel of a loaded howitzer, or at a
slingshot. With enough stretching, perhaps the broken rope itself could
go fast enough to injure me or the tractor driver. If somehow it
carried the metal it was fastened to, that would cause destruction and
maybe death.

I got a chain and it worked like a charm. With no discernible
stretching, I knew there would be little slingshot effect. Besides,
applications with a lot of stretching put a lot of wear on a rope.

On 11/2/2014 4:16 PM, J Burns wrote:
Flying steel cable makes me more nervous. Same as with tow chains.
Stuff breaks. Nylon strap is the best; if you happen to need a
"mountain winch". Both can kill you or upset your day.

I tried a nylon tow strap once. The tow required a fraction of the
strength listed on the package, but it broke immediately.

One day the tractor sank to its axle, down in a gully. I got the 4WD
pickup and nylon rope. The rope was supposed to have a lot more
strength than the traction of the truck, but as it stretched and
stretched, I thought, "Uh-oh!"

It seemed like looking down the barrel of a loaded howitzer, or at a
slingshot. With enough stretching, perhaps the broken rope itself could
go fast enough to injure me or the tractor driver. If somehow it
carried the metal it was fastened to, that would cause destruction and
maybe death.

I got a chain and it worked like a charm. With no discernible
stretching, I knew there would be little slingshot effect. Besides,
applications with a lot of stretching put a lot of wear on a rope.

I've been part of a "sunk in the mud" adventure. Sounds like chain
worked best for you. Thanks for sharing.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sun, 02 Nov 2014 16:16:36 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/2/14, 3:21 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2014 15:09:12 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

Seeing nylon stretch made me very nervous.

Flying steel cable makes me more nervous. Same as with tow chains.
Stuff breaks. Nylon strap is the best; if you happen to need a
"mountain winch". Both can kill you or upset your day.

I tried a nylon tow strap once. The tow required a fraction of the
strength listed on the package, but it broke immediately.

Energy is force times distance. The barrel of an M101 is 231cm. If
somebody were to shorten to barrel to 1cm, it wouldn't impart much
energy to the projectile.

One day the tractor sank to its axle, down in a gully. I got the 4WD
pickup and nylon rope. The rope was supposed to have a lot more
strength than the traction of the truck, but as it stretched and
stretched, I thought, "Uh-oh!"

It seemed like looking down the barrel of a loaded howitzer, or at a
slingshot. With enough stretching, perhaps the broken rope itself could
go fast enough to injure me or the tractor driver. If somehow it
carried the metal it was fastened to, that would cause destruction and
maybe death.

I got a chain and it worked like a charm. With no discernible
stretching, I knew there would be little slingshot effect. Besides,
applications with a lot of stretching put a lot of wear on a rope.
When wirking with a rope, throw a heavy blanket over it - or rie an
old tire in the middle. Not enough energy in the rope to move the tire
more than a few feet - or the blanket.

On 11/2/14, 4:55 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2014 16:16:36 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

On 11/2/14, 3:21 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2014 15:09:12 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

Seeing nylon stretch made me very nervous.

Flying steel cable makes me more nervous. Same as with tow chains.
Stuff breaks. Nylon strap is the best; if you happen to need a
"mountain winch". Both can kill you or upset your day.

I tried a nylon tow strap once. The tow required a fraction of the
strength listed on the package, but it broke immediately.

Energy is force times distance. The barrel of an M101 is 231cm. If
somebody were to shorten to barrel to 1cm, it wouldn't impart much
energy to the projectile.

One day the tractor sank to its axle, down in a gully. I got the 4WD
pickup and nylon rope. The rope was supposed to have a lot more
strength than the traction of the truck, but as it stretched and
stretched, I thought, "Uh-oh!"

It seemed like looking down the barrel of a loaded howitzer, or at a
slingshot. With enough stretching, perhaps the broken rope itself could
go fast enough to injure me or the tractor driver. If somehow it
carried the metal it was fastened to, that would cause destruction and
maybe death.

I got a chain and it worked like a charm. With no discernible
stretching, I knew there would be little slingshot effect. Besides,
applications with a lot of stretching put a lot of wear on a rope.
When wirking with a rope, throw a heavy blanket over it - or rie an
old tire in the middle. Not enough energy in the rope to move the tire
more than a few feet - or the blanket.

The empty 4WD pickup probably weighed 2 tons. There may have been a ton
or more on the rope, and it seemed to stretch a long way. If it was 50
feet and stretched 10%, that would be 5 feet. It seemed like a lot of
energy to me.

I think it was 1/2" nylon, with a minimum strength of 5670 pounds.
Ropes aren't required to spend 12 years sitting in classrooms, so a rope
may not know its breaking strength. I guess that's why the safe load
for 1/2" nylon is only 473 pounds.

In 1971 I worked on Alaskan purse seiners. Aft, on the starboard
gunwale was an L-shaped pipe weighing about 40 pounds. At a certain
point in making a set, it was supposed to be removed and laid on the
deck. The deckhand who did it had decades of experience, but once he
forgot. We saw the line catch it. A second later it was gone like a
shot. It splashed 100 yards away. I was glad it didn't hit the skiff
man. That showed me the awesome energy in stretched nylon.

After that, I served on a 900-ton ship. Depending on how the tide was
running, mooring at the pier could be a special challenge. One
technique was to come in fast and catch a bollard with the forward
spring line. The nylon would absorb the shock, swing the bow to the
pier, arrest the ship's motion, and start it backwards, where the aft
spring line could catch it. The energy in nylon was awesome, but if it
parted, the snapback could be fatal. I've just read that for that
reason, manila is preferred for mooring lines.

In ,
typed:
On Sat, 1 Nov 2014 20:35:53 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 1 Nov 2014 03:25:09 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:
My apologies for my lack of specificity. The type of brush is the
plant type.

How big is this brush plant?

Have a truck and a 4" nylon strap 25' long?

Snatch it out!! Tie close to the ground and rip the do-bad out.

I just did that recently and pulled out very large overgrown
arborvitae shrubs and some arborvitae tree stumps. I had to make
sure I wrapped the strap around the base of each a few times instead
of doing any kind of knot, because the knot tended to tighten when
pulling and became hard to undo. I also have a tow hitch on the
all-wheel-drive car that I used, so I was able to attach the strap
to the tow hitch to avoid damaging the vehicle. If you can soak or
wet the ground, or do it after a heavy rain, that makes the plants
pull out with less effort.

Watering works better because heavy rain makes the ground too
slippery to pull on.

I agree, and I did think of that but I didn't mention it. That's because in
my case it was 6 separate arborvitae bushes and two arborvitae tree stumps,
so I was able to individually soak the ground in and around the roots of
each one before doing the pull-out. Plus, mine were near a large driveway
and I was able to keep the vehicle on the driveway while pulling out the
bushes and stumps. But, when the OP said "brush", I was picturing a large
area of brush and no easily accessible individual root systems that could be
watered and soaked.

In ,
_ G0D _" "_ G0D _ "_ G0D typed:
All you need is some heavy rope and a pickup.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0mMLdm7RgQ

Wow. I originally wasn't going to watch the video since the name of the
poster was so similar to a spammer's name.

But, I did watch it and it's a good thing that this was in a country where
the driver of the pickup truck is on the right side. If one looks
carefully, he apparently did get out okay. And, given the whole setup, it
is hard to imagine that anyone could miss seeing what was obviously going to
happen with this plan.

On 11/2/14, 4:51 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/2/2014 4:16 PM, J Burns wrote:
Flying steel cable makes me more nervous. Same as with tow chains.
Stuff breaks. Nylon strap is the best; if you happen to need a
"mountain winch". Both can kill you or upset your day.

I tried a nylon tow strap once. The tow required a fraction of the
strength listed on the package, but it broke immediately.

One day the tractor sank to its axle, down in a gully. I got the 4WD
pickup and nylon rope. The rope was supposed to have a lot more
strength than the traction of the truck, but as it stretched and
stretched, I thought, "Uh-oh!"

It seemed like looking down the barrel of a loaded howitzer, or at a
slingshot. With enough stretching, perhaps the broken rope itself could
go fast enough to injure me or the tractor driver. If somehow it
carried the metal it was fastened to, that would cause destruction and
maybe death.

I got a chain and it worked like a charm. With no discernible
stretching, I knew there would be little slingshot effect. Besides,
applications with a lot of stretching put a lot of wear on a rope.

I've been part of a "sunk in the mud" adventure. Sounds like chain
worked best for you. Thanks for sharing.

I think I remembered it wrong. I had a 3/8" chain, and that wasn't long
enough to be useful.

When I saw the rope stretch, I realized the safe tension was too low to
get the tractor out. It took more than one day to get it out, by
ingenuity and the firming up of the ground. Rope tension was part of
the solution.

After I got a longer 5/16" chain, I was sitting pretty. It was ideal
for pulling on fixed objects like stumps.

Oren posted for all of us...



On Sun, 02 Nov 2014 15:09:12 -0500, J Burns
wrote:

Seeing nylon stretch made me very nervous.

Flying steel cable makes me more nervous. Same as with tow chains.
Stuff breaks. Nylon strap is the best; if you happen to need a
"mountain winch". Both can kill you or upset your day.

Chains don't store kinetic energy so they just break and you're done. Straps
& wire rope do store it which make breakage spectacular. I'd rather be
strapped than wire roped, these can be lethal!

--
Tekkie