On 10/3/2014 9:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm a published author, now.
Well, in a small way.

http://www.amazon.com/review/R2303PB5TPSB4H


Runtime test on a "heavy duty" Rayovac battery
from Walmart, not an alkaline. I bought three
identical batteries, and tried three lights.

One was PR13 bulb, 500 ma. Other was krypton,
about 700 ma. The LED unit draws about 350 ma.
I didn't expect a lot of difference in runtime.
Certainly not the 10x that Rayovac advertises.
Not likely.

The filament bulb lights (I tested a standard
at 500 ma, and a krypton at 700 ma) started
to dim about three hours, I'd guess about four
and they will be too dim to use. I turned em
off about three hours, not worth the bother.

I turned the three lights on, about 2:10 PM on
Saturday. Here it is, Tuesday night at 8:10 PM.
I did turn the light off for a few hours when I
went to church. But after 60 (sixty) hours of
run time, the the light is still bright enough
to be useful. New, it draws about 350 mA, if
memory serves.

The light is slightly blue, the filament bulb
light is yellow. I can get used to that.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/14/2014 8:17 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

On 10/3/2014 9:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm a published author, now.
Well, in a small way.

http://www.amazon.com/review/R2303PB5TPSB4H


The light is slightly blue, the filament bulb
light is yellow. I can get used to that.


like the blueish/white light from LED. I put the "daylight" bulbs in
both bathrooms and spreading around the rest of the house as bulbs are
replaced..

On 10/14/14, 8:17 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

On 10/3/2014 9:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm a published author, now.
Well, in a small way.

http://www.amazon.com/review/R2303PB5TPSB4H


Runtime test on a "heavy duty" Rayovac battery
from Walmart, not an alkaline. I bought three
identical batteries, and tried three lights.

One was PR13 bulb, 500 ma. Other was krypton,
about 700 ma. The LED unit draws about 350 ma.
I didn't expect a lot of difference in runtime.
Certainly not the 10x that Rayovac advertises.
Not likely.

The filament bulb lights (I tested a standard
at 500 ma, and a krypton at 700 ma) started
to dim about three hours, I'd guess about four
and they will be too dim to use. I turned em
off about three hours, not worth the bother.

I turned the three lights on, about 2:10 PM on
Saturday. Here it is, Tuesday night at 8:10 PM.
I did turn the light off for a few hours when I
went to church. But after 60 (sixty) hours of
run time, the the light is still bright enough
to be useful. New, it draws about 350 mA, if
memory serves.

The light is slightly blue, the filament bulb
light is yellow. I can get used to that.

Rayovac tested their heavy-duty 6-volt heavy-duty battery with a 9-ohm
resistor, initially 667ma, 30 minutes per hour. In 7.5 hours of use, it
was down to 4.4 V. Light output for an incandescent bulb is
approximately V^3.4, so light output would be down by 2/3 in 7.5 hours.

Rayovac found that it would take 20 hours to drop to 4.4 volts with a
16-ohm resister, for an initial 375ma. If the lantern has no regulator,
it will take far longer with a 350ma LED than with a resistor because
the current draw of an LED drops off sharply with voltage. Can you see
how much current it's drawing after 60 hours?

We used those batteries in Vermont in the 1950s. It was far better than
walking through the woods with a candle! Down around zero F, the
lanterns were faint. I believe those batteries had a shelf life of 2 or
3 years at room temperature.

The other day, after dark, I remembered that I forgot to pick figs. I
didn't want birds to get them at the crack of dawn, so I picked them
with my headlamp. Mine has a color rendition of 70. The new model,
with 75, would have been better for spotting ripe fruit. I was glad I
wasn't trying to spot it with my old bluish headlamp.

On 10/14/2014 10:30 PM, J Burns wrote:

Rayovac tested their heavy-duty 6-volt heavy-duty battery with a 9-ohm
resistor, initially 667ma, 30 minutes per hour. In 7.5 hours of use, it
was down to 4.4 V. Light output for an incandescent bulb is
approximately V^3.4, so light output would be down by 2/3 in 7.5 hours.

CY: Wow, mine was starting to dim after about
three hours. Maybe a blink here or there, let
the battery recover some, might lasted longer.


Rayovac found that it would take 20 hours to drop to 4.4 volts with a
16-ohm resister, for an initial 375ma. If the lantern has no regulator,
it will take far longer with a 350ma LED than with a resistor because
the current draw of an LED drops off sharply with voltage. Can you see
how much current it's drawing after 60 hours?

CY: I went and tested. After 74 hours or so,
the battery read 3.91 volts, no load. The load
drew about 5.9 mA, which seems a bit low. I
tested with a couple different scales, and kept
coming out about 6 miliamps. The LED were all
flickering.


We used those batteries in Vermont in the 1950s. It was far better than
walking through the woods with a candle! Down around zero F, the
lanterns were faint. I believe those batteries had a shelf life of 2 or
3 years at room temperature.

CY: Yes, sure beats a candle. I've had plenty of
carbon zincs go dead, on the shelf. Perhaps the
Rayovac LED lantern can get some life out of
otherwise dead batteries?


The other day, after dark, I remembered that I forgot to pick figs. I
didn't want birds to get them at the crack of dawn, so I picked them
with my headlamp. Mine has a color rendition of 70. The new model,
with 75, would have been better for spotting ripe fruit. I was glad I
wasn't trying to spot it with my old bluish headlamp.

CY: Good on you. The early bird gets the fig.

On 10/15/14, 10:54 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/14/2014 10:30 PM, J Burns wrote:

Rayovac tested their heavy-duty 6-volt heavy-duty battery with a 9-ohm
resistor, initially 667ma, 30 minutes per hour. In 7.5 hours of use, it
was down to 4.4 V. Light output for an incandescent bulb is
approximately V^3.4, so light output would be down by 2/3 in 7.5 hours.

CY: Wow, mine was starting to dim after about
three hours. Maybe a blink here or there, let
the battery recover some, might lasted longer.

The Rayovac test was 1/2 hour each hour, 8 hours a day. That gave the
battery a lot of time to recover.


Rayovac found that it would take 20 hours to drop to 4.4 volts with a
16-ohm resister, for an initial 375ma. If the lantern has no regulator,
it will take far longer with a 350ma LED than with a resistor because
the current draw of an LED drops off sharply with voltage. Can you see
how much current it's drawing after 60 hours?

CY: I went and tested. After 74 hours or so,
the battery read 3.91 volts, no load. The load
drew about 5.9 mA, which seems a bit low. I
tested with a couple different scales, and kept
coming out about 6 miliamps. The LED were all
flickering.

It sounds like it's down to 1.7% of the initial brightness. The highest
scale would be the most accurate because it would put the least
resistance in the circuit.

My 3-cell unregulated headlamps would get so dim that a set of batteries
would last a very long time... if I didn't need much light.

On 10/15/2014 1:13 PM, J Burns wrote:

CY: I went and tested. After 74 hours or so,
the battery read 3.91 volts, no load. The load
drew about 5.9 mA, which seems a bit low. I
tested with a couple different scales, and kept
coming out about 6 miliamps. The LED were all
flickering.

It sounds like it's down to 1.7% of the initial brightness. The highest
scale would be the most accurate because it would put the least
resistance in the circuit.

CY: Very possible. I know that at the start, it
shined brightly, and now the spot more or less
reaches the ceiling.

CY: I knocked the top off the heavy duty Rayovac
cell, it contains the taller F cells. The zinc
casing was rotted in all four cells, made them
difficult to handle. I wasn't able to get a
PR2 bulb to light from any of the cells.


My 3-cell unregulated headlamps would get so dim that a set of batteries
would last a very long time... if I didn't need much light.

CY: That sounds like good value. An old light, I
want to say Infinity Beyond, had one AA cell, and
a "joule thief" circuit. Would run that AA cell
into submission.

On 10/15/2014 1:13 PM, J Burns wrote:
CY: Wow, mine was starting to dim after about
three hours. Maybe a blink here or there, let
the battery recover some, might lasted longer.

The Rayovac test was 1/2 hour each hour, 8 hours a day. That gave the
battery a lot of time to recover.
CY: That's a thought. Perhaps I should test the
same way. Or, smile and they did it for me.

CY: I went and tested. After 74 hours or so,
the battery read 3.91 volts, no load. The load
drew about 5.9 mA, which seems a bit low. I
tested with a couple different scales, and kept
coming out about 6 miliamps. The LED were all
flickering.

It sounds like it's down to 1.7% of the initial brightness. The highest
scale would be the most accurate because it would put the least
resistance in the circuit.

CY: Well, I tried three different scales, and
came out about the same.


My 3-cell unregulated headlamps would get so dim that a set of batteries
would last a very long time... if I didn't need much light.

CY: For my next trick, I'll try the batteries from the
filament lanterns, and see if they provide more light
in the LED lantern.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/15/14, 1:18 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

CY: I knocked the top off the heavy duty Rayovac
cell, it contains the taller F cells. The zinc
casing was rotted in all four cells, made them
difficult to handle. I wasn't able to get a
PR2 bulb to light from any of the cells.

I took one apart in grade school. The F cells were embedded in asphalt,
I guess. It wasn't sticky and was very tough. The stuff they used to
heat up to put on roofs was like that.

Around 5th grade, I bought a 36-cubic-inch 1.5V Eveready cell. 2-5/8" in
diameter and 6" high. Screw terminals. I had no use for it, but to an
aspiring geek, it was a bargain at any price. I thought mine said it
was for doorbells. They were also marked for ignitions and telephones.

I had a Zenith radio that used an A battery for filaments and a B
battery for plates. I saved myself a lot of money by plugging it in.

On 10/15/2014 4:36 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 10/15/14, 1:18 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

CY: I knocked the top off the heavy duty Rayovac
cell, it contains the taller F cells. The zinc
casing was rotted in all four cells, made them
difficult to handle. I wasn't able to get a
PR2 bulb to light from any of the cells.

I took one apart in grade school. The F cells were embedded in asphalt,
I guess. It wasn't sticky and was very tough. The stuff they used to
heat up to put on roofs was like that.

CY: They saved money on this one, no tar. There was
something years ago about F versus D cells in lantern
cells. I remember a photo. I did rip apart a Duracell
6 volt square lantern battery, and found D cells and
a cardboard spacer. In the case of the D cells, one
was dead, and the other three went to use for other
things. I've not taken apart Energizer lantern
battery.


Around 5th grade, I bought a 36-cubic-inch 1.5V Eveready cell. 2-5/8" in
diameter and 6" high. Screw terminals. I had no use for it, but to an
aspiring geek, it was a bargain at any price.

CY: Rat Shack used to have those. I took one apart, to get
the carbon rod. Mom was upset for weeks, about all that black
powder around the house. I figured those for having nearly
forever life span. Now days, alkaline D are far better.


I thought mine said it
was for doorbells. They were also marked
for ignitions and telephones.

CY: Most likely so.


I had a Zenith radio that used an A battery for filaments and a B
battery for plates. I saved myself a lot of money by plugging it in.

CY: Yep, cheaper.

On 10/15/14, 1:22 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/15/2014 1:13 PM, J Burns wrote:


It sounds like it's down to 1.7% of the initial brightness. The highest
scale would be the most accurate because it would put the least
resistance in the circuit.

CY: Well, I tried three different scales, and
came out about the same.

Hmm... It sounded like a case where the little voltage drop of a meter
in line could make a significant difference. Maybe the circuit wasn't
so sensitive, or maybe your meter causes very little voltage drop. With
a second meter, you can check the voltage drop across the first meter!

With an analog VOM like Nate's Simpson 260, it could be more accurate to
measure current in a sensitive circuit at a high range (less needle
deflection), rather than a low range (more needle deflection). Those
mirrored dials could be read quite precisely. Happiness is a calibrated
Simpson 260!

On 10/15/2014 5:02 PM, J Burns wrote:

Hmm... It sounded like a case where the little voltage drop of a meter
in line could make a significant difference. Maybe the circuit wasn't
so sensitive, or maybe your meter causes very little voltage drop. With
a second meter, you can check the voltage drop across the first meter!

With an analog VOM like Nate's Simpson 260, it could be more accurate to
measure current in a sensitive circuit at a high range (less needle
deflection), rather than a low range (more needle deflection). Those
mirrored dials could be read quite precisely. Happiness is a calibrated
Simpson 260!


I was using a free meter from Harbor Freight. When I was
much younger, I had a 260, that used to belong to my
grand father. I had it in the van, and some thing heavy
crushed it. I'm still sad. I really miss that meter.

In the meantime, I exist. But life isn't the same.

Trying to decide if I want to buy several more of those
LED lights.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Wednesday, October 15, 2014 10:05:44 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/15/2014 5:02 PM, J Burns wrote:



Hmm... It sounded like a case where the little voltage drop of a meter

in line could make a significant difference. Maybe the circuit wasn't

so sensitive, or maybe your meter causes very little voltage drop. With

a second meter, you can check the voltage drop across the first meter!



With an analog VOM like Nate's Simpson 260, it could be more accurate to

measure current in a sensitive circuit at a high range (less needle

deflection), rather than a low range (more needle deflection). Those

mirrored dials could be read quite precisely. Happiness is a calibrated

Simpson 260!





I was using a free meter from Harbor Freight. When I was

much younger, I had a 260, that used to belong to my

grand father. I had it in the van, and some thing heavy

crushed it. I'm still sad. I really miss that meter.



In the meantime, I exist. But life isn't the same.



Trying to decide if I want to buy several more of those

LED lights.


Whatever you do don't hang out on Candlepowerforums too long, otherwise your EDC will be a custom modified light with a high-CRI emitter that runs on Li-Ions, necessitating buying a new charger.

Ask me how I know this.

In my defense, it's a f'ing fantastic light, and much like computers and smart phones, I'm amazed that something that looks like a toy can produce enough light to completely embarrass the Mag-Lite that I thought was the epitome of flashlight technology 20 years ago with several times longer runtime, and has an infinitely variable magnetic control ring so I can "dial it back" whenever I need to be more subtle with my personal illumination.

nate

On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 8:59:28 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 10/14/2014 8:17 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:



On 10/3/2014 9:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I'm a published author, now.

Well, in a small way.



http://www.amazon.com/review/R2303PB5TPSB4H





The light is slightly blue, the filament bulb

light is yellow. I can get used to that.





like the blueish/white light from LED. I put the "daylight" bulbs in

both bathrooms and spreading around the rest of the house as bulbs are

replaced..

LED emitters are available in a whole range of color temperatures. 4500-5000K is nice (incans are about 2700K) without looking bluish at all, just a nice pure white.

For reference, automotive HIDs range from 4200K or thereabouts up to 5000K (not counting the kewl blue tuner crap with stupid high color temps, at the expense of output.) Unlike HIDs however, efficacy of "white" LEDs seems to improve the higher color temp you select, so "angry purple" emitters seem to be common in less expensive LED flashlights.

Once you've gone down the rabbit hole of LED geekery, you start worrying about CRI... my current favorite emitter is the Nichia 219 which is around 4500K and has a ~92 CRI. I actually have two flashlights using that emitter and while they're far from the most efficient, it's arguably on par with old incandescent flashlights as far as accurately rendering what you're aiming the beam at.

nate

On 10/15/2014 10:09 PM, N8N wrote:

Whatever you do don't hang out on Candlepowerforums
too long, otherwise your EDC will be a custom modified
light with a high-CRI emitter that runs on Li-Ions,
necessitating buying a new charger.

Ask me how I know this.

In my defense, it's a f'ing fantastic light, and
much like computers and smart phones, I'm amazed
that something that looks like a toy can produce
enough light to completely embarrass the Mag-Lite
that I thought was the epitome of flashlight
technology 20 years ago with several times longer
runtime, and has an infinitely variable magnetic
control ring so I can "dial it back" whenever I
need to be more subtle with my personal illumination.

nate


Years ago, I did have a four cell filament bulb
Mag. It was the ultimate in heavy duty personal
lighting. Now, I'd thought those square lanterns
with filament bulb would be top dog. Along with
Mag.

Turns out the three D LED mag out powers them
easily, and batteries last longer. My three D,
I used for night watch duty at the church, and
set of alkalines lasted almost two years.

The ten LED lantern from Walmart is brighter than
the 700 ma krypton, and batteries do last 10 x
longer. And a bargain at $5.48 with first battery
included in that price. Which means the flash light
costs about three bucks. Totally astounding to me.

Technology has improved, a LOT.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"J Burns" wrote in message
...

Hmm... It sounded like a case where the little voltage drop of a meter in
line could make a significant difference. Maybe the circuit wasn't so
sensitive, or maybe your meter causes very little voltage drop. With a
second meter, you can check the voltage drop across the first meter!

With an analog VOM like Nate's Simpson 260, it could be more accurate to
measure current in a sensitive circuit at a high range (less needle
deflection), rather than a low range (more needle deflection). Those
mirrored dials could be read quite precisely. Happiness is a calibrated
Simpson 260!


I have 2 of the Simpson 260s. I like them very much,but for most things I
still like the digital meters. Hard to read the 260 down to a tenth of a
volt.

Looking on ebay there is a lot of stuff comming out very inexpensive that
has a led readout and is just the circuit board. You are on your own for a
case to put them in. I ordered 4 voltmeters for less than $ 6 jsut to see
about them. It surprised me. They would read from 0 to 99.9 volts if you
used a seperate power supply, or you could hook them up to read from about 4
volts to 30 volts and draw the powe from the circuit under test. Three of
them tracked from 5 volts to 25 volts to the decimal place and one was only
one tenth off sometimes. They read the same as my Fluke digital meter.

I also bought another readout that goes from about 90 to about 300 volts AC.
It only reads out to the volt, but I put it in a plastic case and leave it
plugged in to monitor the voltage comming into the house. I think it was
less than $ 6. It shows the same as the Fluke also.




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 10/16/2014 9:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

I have 2 of the Simpson 260s. I like them very much,but for most things I
still like the digital meters. Hard to read the 260 down to a tenth of a
volt.

Looking on ebay there is a lot of stuff comming out very inexpensive that
has a led readout and is just the circuit board. You are on your own for a
case to put them in. I ordered 4 voltmeters for less than $ 6 jsut to see
about them. It surprised me. They would read from 0 to 99.9 volts if you
used a seperate power supply, or you could hook them up to read from about 4
volts to 30 volts and draw the powe from the circuit under test. Three of
them tracked from 5 volts to 25 volts to the decimal place and one was only
one tenth off sometimes. They read the same as my Fluke digital meter.

I also bought another readout that goes from about 90 to about 300 volts AC.
It only reads out to the volt, but I put it in a plastic case and leave it
plugged in to monitor the voltage comming into the house. I think it was
less than $ 6. It shows the same as the Fluke also.

How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.


HF is about a 30 minuit drive for me. I have only been there one time .
Did not get anything free at that time, therefore I can not say anything
about the meters. I have already have 3 or 4 other digital meters so don't
really need another, but if I get there and the meter is free, I will get
one.



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wrote in message
...
Just be aware of the difference between precision and accuracy. A
cheap digital meter can give you a reading "precise" down to a
hundredth of a volt but be inaccurate by over a volt.

Part of my job was to calibrate instrumentation of all kinds. Our
calibration equipment was sent out on a regular schedule to be certified. I
know my two Fluke digital meters are within spec as I compaired them to
this.

We had a process that ran about 300 deg C. In it was a probe that was about
1/4 of an inch in diameter that had 2 RTD and 2 thermocouples in it.. It
was hooked up to two differant computer screens. They showed about 3
degrees differant from each other, but you could read them to 3 decimal
places. Never could convience one of the chemical engineers that all 4
tempertuers he was looking at was correct. After going from the probe to
two converters to get them tothe computer screen, the tollorances of each
device just keep producing a larger and larger error. Probably lucky to get
that close as the T/C was only rated to be within 2 deg at that temperature.




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On Thu, 16 Oct 2014 10:01:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/16/2014 9:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

I have 2 of the Simpson 260s. I like them very much,but for most things I
still like the digital meters. Hard to read the 260 down to a tenth of a
volt.

Looking on ebay there is a lot of stuff comming out very inexpensive that
has a led readout and is just the circuit board. You are on your own for a
case to put them in. I ordered 4 voltmeters for less than $ 6 jsut to see
about them. It surprised me. They would read from 0 to 99.9 volts if you
used a seperate power supply, or you could hook them up to read from about 4
volts to 30 volts and draw the powe from the circuit under test. Three of
them tracked from 5 volts to 25 volts to the decimal place and one was only
one tenth off sometimes. They read the same as my Fluke digital meter.

I also bought another readout that goes from about 90 to about 300 volts AC.
It only reads out to the volt, but I put it in a plastic case and leave it
plugged in to monitor the voltage comming into the house. I think it was
less than $ 6. It shows the same as the Fluke also.

How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.
Well, you get your money's worth, anyway ------

On Thu, 16 Oct 2014 10:28:28 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 16 Oct 2014 10:01:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/16/2014 9:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

I have 2 of the Simpson 260s. I like them very much,but for most things I
still like the digital meters. Hard to read the 260 down to a tenth of a
volt.

Looking on ebay there is a lot of stuff comming out very inexpensive that
has a led readout and is just the circuit board. You are on your own for a
case to put them in. I ordered 4 voltmeters for less than $ 6 jsut to see
about them. It surprised me. They would read from 0 to 99.9 volts if you
used a seperate power supply, or you could hook them up to read from about 4
volts to 30 volts and draw the powe from the circuit under test. Three of
them tracked from 5 volts to 25 volts to the decimal place and one was only
one tenth off sometimes. They read the same as my Fluke digital meter.

I also bought another readout that goes from about 90 to about 300 volts AC.
It only reads out to the volt, but I put it in a plastic case and leave it
plugged in to monitor the voltage comming into the house. I think it was
less than $ 6. It shows the same as the Fluke also.

How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.

Just be aware of the difference between precision and accuracy. A
cheap digital meter can give you a reading "precise" down to a
hundredth of a volt but be inaccurate by over a volt.
And it can read a different voltage on a warm day or a cool night -
or even every time you use it.

On 10/16/2014 12:20 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 16 Oct 2014 10:01:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon

How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.
Well, you get your money's worth, anyway ------


I've been very pleased, so far.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/16/2014 2:49 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/16/2014 12:20 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 16 Oct 2014 10:01:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon

How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.
Well, you get your money's worth, anyway ------


I've been very pleased, so far.

The low ohms performance is quite variable.
The accuracy is quite good...except when it isn't.
Seems to be a combination of probes and the switch.
I select 'em for good low ohms and give the others away.
As crappy as the battery is, it's still the most valuable
part of the freebie.

I've had better luck with the yellow-power-button
ones than the red, but that may be just my imagination.

I took the battery out, packaged it separately in a plastic
bag and stuck both in the car's emergency kit.

I use another one as a voltage monitor on a power supply
without digital readout.

But, If I really want to make a measurement, I use something else.

On 10/15/14, 10:14 PM, N8N wrote:
LED emitters are available in a whole range of color temperatures.
4500-5000K is nice (incans are about 2700K) without looking bluish at
all, just a nice pure white.

For reference, automotive HIDs range from 4200K or thereabouts up to
5000K (not counting the kewl blue tuner crap with stupid high color
temps, at the expense of output.) Unlike HIDs however, efficacy of
"white" LEDs seems to improve the higher color temp you select, so
"angry purple" emitters seem to be common in less expensive LED
flashlights.

Once you've gone down the rabbit hole of LED geekery, you start
worrying about CRI... my current favorite emitter is the Nichia 219
which is around 4500K and has a ~92 CRI. I actually have two
flashlights using that emitter and while they're far from the most
efficient, it's arguably on par with old incandescent flashlights as
far as accurately rendering what you're aiming the beam at.

nate

I believe by definition, an incandescent bulb has a CRI of 100, but, as
you say, you need a good temperature if you're looking for certain
colors. I never liked ordinary household incandescents, and flashlight
bulbs powered by zinc cells were worse. The bulb had to stand up to the
voltage of new batteries. The voltage kept decreasing and the
temperature kept getting cooler.

I was thrilled to discover Cool White Deluxe in 1976. The CRI was 87,
but with a temperature of 4100K, I thought it brought out colors much
better than an incandescent bulb with a CRI of 100.

Besides your custom light, I don't know much about what's available. The
Zebralight H502d advertizes 190 lumens and a CRI of 85 at 5000K, but
they don't say the intensity. With a 120-degree beam, it may not be
useful far beyond arm's reach.

On Friday, October 17, 2014 2:00:38 AM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:
On 10/15/14, 10:14 PM, N8N wrote:

LED emitters are available in a whole range of color temperatures.

4500-5000K is nice (incans are about 2700K) without looking bluish at

all, just a nice pure white.



For reference, automotive HIDs range from 4200K or thereabouts up to

5000K (not counting the kewl blue tuner crap with stupid high color

temps, at the expense of output.) Unlike HIDs however, efficacy of

"white" LEDs seems to improve the higher color temp you select, so

"angry purple" emitters seem to be common in less expensive LED

flashlights.



Once you've gone down the rabbit hole of LED geekery, you start

worrying about CRI... my current favorite emitter is the Nichia 219

which is around 4500K and has a ~92 CRI. I actually have two

flashlights using that emitter and while they're far from the most

efficient, it's arguably on par with old incandescent flashlights as

far as accurately rendering what you're aiming the beam at.



nate



I believe by definition, an incandescent bulb has a CRI of 100, but, as

you say, you need a good temperature if you're looking for certain

colors. I never liked ordinary household incandescents, and flashlight

bulbs powered by zinc cells were worse. The bulb had to stand up to the

voltage of new batteries. The voltage kept decreasing and the

temperature kept getting cooler.

Point of order: while you are correct that the color temp of an incan gets lower (probably starts off around 2700K unless it's a halogen, then it might be slightly higher) common usage calls that "warmer" as it gets more yellow/red. "cooler" color temps go to pure white then to blue/purple.

I know, makes no sense.

I was thrilled to discover Cool White Deluxe in 1976. The CRI was 87,

but with a temperature of 4100K, I thought it brought out colors much

better than an incandescent bulb with a CRI of 100.


87 is not bad really, compared to many commonly available lighting sources.


Besides your custom light, I don't know much about what's available. The

Zebralight H502d advertizes 190 lumens and a CRI of 85 at 5000K, but

they don't say the intensity. With a 120-degree beam, it may not be

useful far beyond arm's reach.

Probably quite useful for e.g. working on cars etc. I have an older version of that same light but the "w" version (warm tint, not high CRI though) and 18650 fed and it's quite acceptable. Likewise my own pocket light for quite a while was a Fenix E11 with only a little more than half the output of the Zebralight you mention, and one night I even used it to find my way back through a path in the woods from a dock to a friend's house (I was the only person with a light other than the owner of the property, and there were about 20-30 of us) no problem at all.

My one complaint with the ZL is that I think in mine something has failed in the electronics as it will completely drain an 18650 in a few days if I don't unscrew the tailcap when not using it. Makes me think I should get a new one seeing as an 18650 can go all pipe bomb if short circuited, although I am using protected cells...

nate

On Friday, October 17, 2014 8:25:53 AM UTC-4, N8N wrote:
On Friday, October 17, 2014 2:00:38 AM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:

On 10/15/14, 10:14 PM, N8N wrote:



LED emitters are available in a whole range of color temperatures.



4500-5000K is nice (incans are about 2700K) without looking bluish at



all, just a nice pure white.







For reference, automotive HIDs range from 4200K or thereabouts up to



5000K (not counting the kewl blue tuner crap with stupid high color



temps, at the expense of output.) Unlike HIDs however, efficacy of



"white" LEDs seems to improve the higher color temp you select, so



"angry purple" emitters seem to be common in less expensive LED



flashlights.







Once you've gone down the rabbit hole of LED geekery, you start



worrying about CRI... my current favorite emitter is the Nichia 219



which is around 4500K and has a ~92 CRI. I actually have two



flashlights using that emitter and while they're far from the most



efficient, it's arguably on par with old incandescent flashlights as



far as accurately rendering what you're aiming the beam at.







nate







I believe by definition, an incandescent bulb has a CRI of 100, but, as



you say, you need a good temperature if you're looking for certain



colors. I never liked ordinary household incandescents, and flashlight



bulbs powered by zinc cells were worse. The bulb had to stand up to the



voltage of new batteries. The voltage kept decreasing and the



temperature kept getting cooler.



Point of order: while you are correct that the color temp of an incan gets lower (probably starts off around 2700K unless it's a halogen, then it might be slightly higher) common usage calls that "warmer" as it gets more yellow/red. "cooler" color temps go to pure white then to blue/purple.



I know, makes no sense.



I was thrilled to discover Cool White Deluxe in 1976. The CRI was 87,



but with a temperature of 4100K, I thought it brought out colors much



better than an incandescent bulb with a CRI of 100.





87 is not bad really, compared to many commonly available lighting sources.





Besides your custom light, I don't know much about what's available. The



Zebralight H502d advertizes 190 lumens and a CRI of 85 at 5000K, but



they don't say the intensity. With a 120-degree beam, it may not be



useful far beyond arm's reach.



Probably quite useful for e.g. working on cars etc. I have an older version of that same light but the "w" version (warm tint, not high CRI though) and 18650 fed and it's quite acceptable. Likewise my own pocket light for quite a while was a Fenix E11 with only a little more than half the output of the Zebralight you mention, and one night I even used it to find my way back through a path in the woods from a dock to a friend's house (I was the only person with a light other than the owner of the property, and there were about 20-30 of us) no problem at all.



My one complaint with the ZL is that I think in mine something has failed in the electronics as it will completely drain an 18650 in a few days if I don't unscrew the tailcap when not using it. Makes me think I should get a new one seeing as an 18650 can go all pipe bomb if short circuited, although I am using protected cells...



nate

Forgot to add, there are a few lights on the market using either a 219 high-CRI emitter or a Cree high CRI emitter (although the Cree is a lower color temp than the Nichia) off the top of my head Gene Malkoff occasionally makes a run of 219 based drop ins to replace a Surefire P60 (I have one of those in an old Surefire 6P) and every year EagleTac tends to make some specials with a 219 - I bought a D25C Ti with 219 but am probably going to sell it as it doesn't really operate properly on a rechargeable Li-Ion (works fantastic on a primary cell though so I may keep it as an emergency light) my disappointment in the EagleTac was what prompted me to have a different light modified as there wasn't a readily available high-CRI light that ticked all the boxes of my requirements for a pocket light.

I'd have tried to swap the emitter myself, but there are guys out there who totally geek out on this stuff and do it all the time...

nate

On Thursday, October 16, 2014 10:01:30 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/16/2014 9:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:



I have 2 of the Simpson 260s. I like them very much,but for most things I

still like the digital meters. Hard to read the 260 down to a tenth of a

volt.



Looking on ebay there is a lot of stuff comming out very inexpensive that

has a led readout and is just the circuit board. You are on your own for a

case to put them in. I ordered 4 voltmeters for less than $ 6 jsut to see

about them. It surprised me. They would read from 0 to 99.9 volts if you

used a seperate power supply, or you could hook them up to read from about 4

volts to 30 volts and draw the powe from the circuit under test. Three of

them tracked from 5 volts to 25 volts to the decimal place and one was only

one tenth off sometimes. They read the same as my Fluke digital meter.



I also bought another readout that goes from about 90 to about 300 volts AC.

It only reads out to the volt, but I put it in a plastic case and leave it

plugged in to monitor the voltage comming into the house. I think it was

less than $ 6. It shows the same as the Fluke also.



How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?



I use them on regular basis.


I gave one to a friend to do some basic troubleshooting around the house, they work fine.

The one thing that worries me about them is that if you did something stupid with them will the fuses in them protect you from the consquences? There was a thread either here or on GJ a while back about why the fuses for a Fluke or Simpson meter were so expensive that kind of explains what I'm talking about...

ah, here it is

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=257415

when I got my 260 (used, probably from a pawn shop) I found that the fuses were not the correct ones. Now I didn't buy them direct from Simpson as they're awful proud of their stuff, but I did order some from McMaster with the exact correct ratings. I also ordered some for my Flukes as well. Somewhere in my "home tools" roll cabinet there's a piece of paper with the Buss equivalent part numbers for both Fluke and Simpson meters written down on it...

Which reminds me, I need new Fluke leads, one of the leads for one of my Flukes is bent and I keep forgetting to grab a pair whenever I'm at the supply house...

nate

"N8N" wrote in message
...
The one thing that worries me about them is that if you did something
stupid with them will the fuses in them protect you from the consquences?
There was a thread either here or on GJ a while back about why the fuses
for a Fluke or Simpson meter were so expensive that kind of explains what
I'm talking about...

ah, here it is

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=257415

when I got my 260 (used, probably from a pawn shop) I found that the fuses
were not the correct ones. Now I didn't buy them direct from Simpson as
they're awful proud of their stuff, but I did order some from McMaster
with the exact correct ratings. I also ordered some for my Flukes as
well. Somewhere in my "home tools" roll cabinet there's a piece of paper
with the Buss equivalent part numbers for both Fluke and Simpson meters
written down on it...

Fluke has a video that shows how not using a correct fuse can be very
dangerous to your health if say you try to measure voltage while in the
current or ohms range. The fuse arcs over and does not interrupt the flow
at all , the leads melt and if you are holding them, when the insulation
melts off in a fraction of a second your body becomes the current path.

I worked on circuits at 480 volts and 300 or 400 amps, so good test
equipment was needed. In a home most circuits are fused low enough it is
not that much of a problem with the inexpensive meters, but if I have a
choice, I grab the Simpson or Fluke.




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This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Friday, October 17, 2014 9:39:36 AM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"N8N" wrote in message

...

The one thing that worries me about them is that if you did something

stupid with them will the fuses in them protect you from the consquences?

There was a thread either here or on GJ a while back about why the fuses

for a Fluke or Simpson meter were so expensive that kind of explains what

I'm talking about...



ah, here it is



http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=257415



when I got my 260 (used, probably from a pawn shop) I found that the fuses

were not the correct ones. Now I didn't buy them direct from Simpson as

they're awful proud of their stuff, but I did order some from McMaster

with the exact correct ratings. I also ordered some for my Flukes as

well. Somewhere in my "home tools" roll cabinet there's a piece of paper

with the Buss equivalent part numbers for both Fluke and Simpson meters

written down on it...



Fluke has a video that shows how not using a correct fuse can be very

dangerous to your health if say you try to measure voltage while in the

current or ohms range. The fuse arcs over and does not interrupt the flow

at all , the leads melt and if you are holding them, when the insulation

melts off in a fraction of a second your body becomes the current path.



I worked on circuits at 480 volts and 300 or 400 amps, so good test

equipment was needed. In a home most circuits are fused low enough it is

not that much of a problem with the inexpensive meters, but if I have a

choice, I grab the Simpson or Fluke.


Right, I don't want to be "that guy."

The HF meters are excellent for working on e.g. a car or low voltage stuff or measuring resistance on de-energized equipment - I'm a little nervous about using them on 120VAC but have done so; I would definitely not use on 240 or 277

here's more on that, from Fluke

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uses/comu...ing+a+fuse.htm

Now, when I said I didn't use the "right" fuses, I didn't mean that I ignored this advice - I made sure to purchase name-brand fuses of the correct current rating, and just as important, the correct or higher interrupt rating.

I'd be more specific, but I don't have my notes or spare fuses handy at the moment.

nate

On 10/17/2014 1:47 PM, N8N wrote:

Now, when I said I didn't use the "right"
fuses, I didn't mean that I ignored this
advice - I made sure to purchase name-brand
fuses of the correct current rating, and just
as important, the correct or higher interrupt
rating.

I'd be more specific, but I don't have my
notes or spare fuses handy at the moment.

nate


Years ago, I made an eleven dollar pop on my
Fluke. Yep, left it to amps, and went to read
volts of car battery. They are cheaper on Ebay,
but with shipping works out about eleven bucks.
I got two at my HVAC parts house, and called
them a business expense. Which they are.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Thu, 16 Oct 2014, Ralph Mowery wrote:

HF is about a 30 minuit drive for me. I have only been there one time .
Did not get anything free at that time, therefore I can not say anything
about the meters. I have already have 3 or 4 other digital meters so don't
really need another, but if I get there and the meter is free, I will get
one.

They are never free without a coupon. Coupons can be found in home
improvement magazines, local newspapers (free and paid), circulars tossed
on the driveway, given to you after you make a purchase, mailed/emailed to
you if you sign up, etc. On their website there will be coupons, but not
the free with no purchase. Easier to find are free with any purchase.

If you go to coupons.com and download the coupons.com app for your
smartphone, you can show a 25% off a single item to the cashier.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/16/2014 9:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

I have 2 of the Simpson 260s. I like them very much,but for most
things I
still like the digital meters. Hard to read the 260 down to a tenth of a
volt.

Looking on ebay there is a lot of stuff comming out very inexpensive
that
has a led readout and is just the circuit board. You are on your own
for a
case to put them in. I ordered 4 voltmeters for less than $ 6 jsut to
see
about them. It surprised me. They would read from 0 to 99.9 volts if
you
used a seperate power supply, or you could hook them up to read from
about 4
volts to 30 volts and draw the powe from the circuit under test.
Three of
them tracked from 5 volts to 25 volts to the decimal place and one was
only
one tenth off sometimes. They read the same as my Fluke digital meter.

I also bought another readout that goes from about 90 to about 300
volts AC.
It only reads out to the volt, but I put it in a plastic case and
leave it
plugged in to monitor the voltage comming into the house. I think it was
less than $ 6. It shows the same as the Fluke also.

How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.


Hi,
If U get one Fluke, it'll last life time.
I hoarded one when I retired, together with tool kit, Simpson 260 Series
5, Tek oscilloscope, Hakko ESD Soldering station with assortment of
tips, and tube tester which I use when I work on guitar amps and vintage
tube HiFi gear as a hobby.

The HF voltmeters are not bad at all, but watch out on the amps ranges, my son says no fuses. I get HF coupons almost daily, some directly from HF after I registered, that are "free-no purchase required" coupons. Those come about twice a month. Almost daily for "free with any purchase"

On Thu, 16 Oct 2014 10:29:44 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.


HF is about a 30 minuit drive for me. I have only been there one time .
Did not get anything free at that time, therefore I can not say anything
about the meters. I have already have 3 or 4 other digital meters so don't
really need another, but if I get there and the meter is free, I will get
one.

HF sells a decent little DVM for about $3 or less when they are on
sale. Work fine for most things a none electronics guy would need.

Ive bought 10 at a time and used to give them away to clients, back
during the Shining Times. I think Ive given away at least 40 or more
of them,

No issues noted

Gunner




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This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Fri, 17 Oct 2014 21:24:23 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/16/2014 9:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

I have 2 of the Simpson 260s. I like them very much,but for most
things I
still like the digital meters. Hard to read the 260 down to a tenth of a
volt.

Looking on ebay there is a lot of stuff comming out very inexpensive
that
has a led readout and is just the circuit board. You are on your own
for a
case to put them in. I ordered 4 voltmeters for less than $ 6 jsut to
see
about them. It surprised me. They would read from 0 to 99.9 volts if
you
used a seperate power supply, or you could hook them up to read from
about 4
volts to 30 volts and draw the powe from the circuit under test.
Three of
them tracked from 5 volts to 25 volts to the decimal place and one was
only
one tenth off sometimes. They read the same as my Fluke digital meter.

I also bought another readout that goes from about 90 to about 300
volts AC.
It only reads out to the volt, but I put it in a plastic case and
leave it
plugged in to monitor the voltage comming into the house. I think it was
less than $ 6. It shows the same as the Fluke also.

How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.


Hi,
If U get one Fluke, it'll last life time.

Assuming you dont lose it, drop it from a great height or have it
stolen.

Ive got (8) Flukes. Good meters and rugged.

And they are accurate. Some are complicated..most are dead nuts easy
to run.

Ive also got 5 Simpson 260s...3 being the Bakelite shell units..2 the
later nylon shells.

All work nicely.
I hoarded one when I retired, together with tool kit, Simpson 260 Series
5, Tek oscilloscope, Hakko ESD Soldering station with assortment of
tips, and tube tester which I use when I work on guitar amps and vintage
tube HiFi gear as a hobby.

Need any more scopes? Ive got 6 and only need 2

Gunner




"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On 10/18/2014 6:52 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
HF is about a 30 minuit drive for me. I have only been there one time .
Did not get anything free at that time, therefore I can not say anything
about the meters. I have already have 3 or 4 other digital meters so don't
really need another, but if I get there and the meter is free, I will get
one.

HF sells a decent little DVM for about $3 or less when they are on
sale. Work fine for most things a none electronics guy would need.

Ive bought 10 at a time and used to give them away to clients, back
during the Shining Times. I think Ive given away at least 40 or more
of them,

No issues noted

Gunner

With the coupons and some shopping, it's easy enough
to get a pile of VOM, and the flash lights and screw
drivers. I've had great fun giving away the flash
lights at church, for Christmas.

It's not a Reagan economic boom, but the lights shine.
Egads, what a mess of the economy after Oh Bomb Us, and
Lewinksy's boyfriend.


..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Saturday, October 18, 2014 6:55:33 AM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 17 Oct 2014 21:24:23 -0600, Tony Hwang

wrote:



Stormin Mormon wrote:

On 10/16/2014 9:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:



I have 2 of the Simpson 260s. I like them very much,but for most

things I

still like the digital meters. Hard to read the 260 down to a tenth of a

volt.



Looking on ebay there is a lot of stuff comming out very inexpensive

that

has a led readout and is just the circuit board. You are on your own

for a

case to put them in. I ordered 4 voltmeters for less than $ 6 jsut to

see

about them. It surprised me. They would read from 0 to 99.9 volts if

you

used a seperate power supply, or you could hook them up to read from

about 4

volts to 30 volts and draw the powe from the circuit under test.

Three of

them tracked from 5 volts to 25 volts to the decimal place and one was

only

one tenth off sometimes. They read the same as my Fluke digital meter.



I also bought another readout that goes from about 90 to about 300

volts AC.

It only reads out to the volt, but I put it in a plastic case and

leave it

plugged in to monitor the voltage comming into the house. I think it was

less than $ 6. It shows the same as the Fluke also.



How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?



I use them on regular basis.





Hi,

If U get one Fluke, it'll last life time.



Assuming you dont lose it, drop it from a great height or have it

stolen.



Ive got (8) Flukes. Good meters and rugged.



And they are accurate. Some are complicated..most are dead nuts easy

to run.



Ive also got 5 Simpson 260s...3 being the Bakelite shell units..2 the

later nylon shells.



All work nicely.

I hoarded one when I retired, together with tool kit, Simpson 260 Series

5, Tek oscilloscope, Hakko ESD Soldering station with assortment of

tips, and tube tester which I use when I work on guitar amps and vintage

tube HiFi gear as a hobby.



Need any more scopes? Ive got 6 and only need 2


If you're offering, I don't have one at all...

nate

On Sat, 18 Oct 2014, Stormin Mormon wrote:

With the coupons and some shopping, it's easy enough
to get a pile of VOM, and the flash lights and screw
drivers. I've had great fun giving away the flash
lights at church, for Christmas.

With circulars tossed on the stoops, and piled up in front of apartment
buildings, and easily slipped out of the pile of free newspapers at the
supermarket, it is easy to amass hundreds of the No Purchase Required
coupons. Many times more than I could use before they expire. It is a three
mile round trip bike ride to HF. A neat way to get out and get some
exercise.

The different items have different gift values. I haven't found the
screwdrivers all that popular. The 25' tape measure is useful. Everybody
has a tape measure, but most don't have one as long as 25'. But the most
popular gift to give is the blue worklight/flashlight. I just got many
coupons for them.

I had a bad one. I started testing them in the store. I tried to give away
four on Friday. I could only give away three. On one the small light
worked, but not the big one. So now I have to test to be sure both lights
work.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

N8N wrote:
On Friday, October 17, 2014 9:39:36 AM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"N8N" wrote in message

...

The one thing that worries me about them is that if you did something

stupid with them will the fuses in them protect you from the consquences?

There was a thread either here or on GJ a while back about why the fuses

for a Fluke or Simpson meter were so expensive that kind of explains what

I'm talking about...



ah, here it is



http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=257415



when I got my 260 (used, probably from a pawn shop) I found that the fuses

were not the correct ones. Now I didn't buy them direct from Simpson as

they're awful proud of their stuff, but I did order some from McMaster

with the exact correct ratings. I also ordered some for my Flukes as

well. Somewhere in my "home tools" roll cabinet there's a piece of paper

with the Buss equivalent part numbers for both Fluke and Simpson meters

written down on it...



Fluke has a video that shows how not using a correct fuse can be very

dangerous to your health if say you try to measure voltage while in the

current or ohms range. The fuse arcs over and does not interrupt the flow

at all , the leads melt and if you are holding them, when the insulation

melts off in a fraction of a second your body becomes the current path.



I worked on circuits at 480 volts and 300 or 400 amps, so good test

equipment was needed. In a home most circuits are fused low enough it is

not that much of a problem with the inexpensive meters, but if I have a

choice, I grab the Simpson or Fluke.


Right, I don't want to be "that guy."

The HF meters are excellent for working on e.g. a car or low voltage
stuff or measuring resistance on de-energized equipment - I'm a little
nervous about using them on 120VAC but have done so; I would definitely
not use on 240 or 277

here's more on that, from Fluke

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uses/comu...ing+a+fuse.htm

Now, when I said I didn't use the "right" fuses, I didn't mean that I
ignored this advice - I made sure to purchase name-brand fuses of the
correct current rating, and just as important, the correct or higher interrupt rating.

I'd be more specific, but I don't have my notes or spare fuses handy at the moment.

nate

I don't remember having to change fuses on a $400 fluke meter I used to use
in a shop. Like the fluke and my good HF meter, you have to change probe
positions for different functions. Offering added protection.

Greg

Tony Hwang wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/16/2014 9:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

I have 2 of the Simpson 260s. I like them very much,but for most
things I
still like the digital meters. Hard to read the 260 down to a tenth of a
volt.

Looking on ebay there is a lot of stuff comming out very inexpensive
that
has a led readout and is just the circuit board. You are on your own
for a
case to put them in. I ordered 4 voltmeters for less than $ 6 jsut to
see
about them. It surprised me. They would read from 0 to 99.9 volts if
you
used a seperate power supply, or you could hook them up to read from
about 4
volts to 30 volts and draw the powe from the circuit under test.
Three of
them tracked from 5 volts to 25 volts to the decimal place and one was
only
one tenth off sometimes. They read the same as my Fluke digital meter.

I also bought another readout that goes from about 90 to about 300
volts AC.
It only reads out to the volt, but I put it in a plastic case and
leave it
plugged in to monitor the voltage comming into the house. I think it was
less than $ 6. It shows the same as the Fluke also.

How do you like the free ones from Harbor Freight?

I use them on regular basis.


Hi,
If U get one Fluke, it'll last life time.
I hoarded one when I retired, together with tool kit, Simpson 260 Series
5, Tek oscilloscope, Hakko ESD Soldering station with assortment of tips,
and tube tester which I use when I work on guitar amps and vintage tube
HiFi gear as a hobby.

I'm reporting you.

A got one nice thing. Delux Hickok tube testor. Its nice, but forgot model.
I'm nit sure, but I think I got an old RCA Senior Voltohmist.

Greg