Was chain sawing a Monterey Pine today and have a few basic questions:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2941/1...77d52069_b.jpg

My main question is about the chain:

I was stupid, it seems, and I had been buying chains from Home Depot, who
only sells the Y62 chain for my 18-inch Husky 445, which I only recently
found out, really takes an H72 (which Lowes sells) chain:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2944/1...944028f121.jpg

So *maybe* that's why my chains kept falling off while cutting?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3883/1...147c05e6_c.jpg

What damage could I have done by running at least two chains (maybe 3)
that were, in effect, the wrong chains because Home Depot sold me a Y62
instead of what Lowes sold me, which is the H72 for that Husqvarna 445
chainsaw.

Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 05:33:43 +0000:

Was chain sawing a Monterey Pine today and have a few basic questions:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2941/1...77d52069_b.jpg

Another question I have is what are these "20" numbers indicating that
are stamped on the chain on the metal "iceberg" parts below the waterline?
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2947/1...74301fa4_c.jpg

Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 05:33:43 +0000:

So *maybe* that's why my chains kept falling off while cutting?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3883/1...147c05e6_c.jpg

Another question I had was what do you guys do once you cut a 20 inch log
to length to make it more manageable?
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2946/1...4d3373ba_b.jpg

Do you guys slice the thing down the middle lengthwise with the chainsaw?

Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 05:33:43 +0000:

Was chain sawing a Monterey Pine today and have a few basic questions:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2941/1...77d52069_b.jpg

I also had to slice a limb off an oak and wondered if this is the proper
way to cut it (as I've seen this 'style' when the road crews limb the
trees):
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2946/1...beef053f_c.jpg

How *close* to the body of the tree is that cut supposed to be?
And, should it be vertical? Or inward sloping? Or outward sloping?
Or, does it not matter?

Last question is about sudden oak death.

Does *this* look like sudden oak death to you?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3885/1...4da5df50_c.jpg

On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 05:39:24 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote in

Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 05:33:43 +0000:

So *maybe* that's why my chains kept falling off while cutting?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3883/1...147c05e6_c.jpg

Another question I had was what do you guys do once you cut a 20 inch log
to length to make it more manageable?
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2946/1...4d3373ba_b.jpg

Do you guys slice the thing down the middle lengthwise with the chainsaw?

Yes, "slicing" helps a lot.

"Danny D." wrote in message

Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 05:33:43 +0000:

So *maybe* that's why my chains kept falling off while cutting?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3883/1...147c05e6_c.jpg

Another question I had was what do you guys do once you cut a 20 inch
log
to length to make it more manageable?
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2946/1...4d3373ba_b.jpg

Do you guys slice the thing down the middle lengthwise with the
chainsaw?

You could and if you do you'll find it much more efficient to use a rip
chain.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"Danny D." wrote in message

Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 05:33:43 +0000:

Was chain sawing a Monterey Pine today and have a few basic questions:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2941/1...77d52069_b.jpg

I also had to slice a limb off an oak and wondered if this is the proper
way to cut it (as I've seen this 'style' when the road crews limb the
trees):
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2946/1...beef053f_c.jpg

No it is not. You want to cut it closer to the main trunk...a stub like
that will just rot. If the bark ever grows over it, it will encapsulate
whatever rot their is. You want to cut just outboard of the branch
collar. Here's an explanation and pix...
http://www.wcfb.sailorsite.net/WCFB/Pruning.html

Wikipedia too...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pruning


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Danny D. wrote:
Was chain sawing a Monterey Pine today and have a few basic questions:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2941/1...77d52069_b.jpg

My main question is about the chain:

I was stupid, it seems, and I had been buying chains from Home Depot,
who only sells the Y62 chain for my 18-inch Husky 445, which I only
recently found out, really takes an H72 (which Lowes sells) chain:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2944/1...944028f121.jpg

So *maybe* that's why my chains kept falling off while cutting?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3883/1...147c05e6_c.jpg

What damage could I have done by running at least two chains (maybe 3)
that were, in effect, the wrong chains because Home Depot sold me a
Y62 instead of what Lowes sold me, which is the H72 for that
Husqvarna 445 chainsaw.

There are 3 main things to consider when buying a chain - pitch , drive
link thickness , and number of drive links . Most saws run either .325 or
3/8" pitch , .050 or .062 thickness , and the number of drive links varies
with length . The 2 parts that you might have damaged are the drive sprocket
and the bar and both are easy to replace .
The main things people do to chains are run them too tight and run them
dull , both will stretch the chain and make it fall off ... the best way I
found to gauge sharpness is to check the chips . Large coarse chips indicate
a sharp chain , small or "sawdust" chips indicate a dull chain . If your cut
wanders it could be 2 things , either the bar is worn or the chain is duller
on one side . If the chain can be wiggled sideways more than just a tiny bit
, the bar is probably due to be replaced .
I've been buying my chains from an ebay seller , cheaper than HD or Lowes
for a better quality chain . I also buy a chain with a "professional" tooth
profile - they cut much more aggressively , but they WILL kick back and are
not intended for Joe-the-average-homeowner to prune his maple trees . I've
currently got 3 saws , all run well , and all were given to me by people who
couldn't keep them running/cutting well . They all needed a carb cleaning
and new chains/bars , one also needed a new drive sprocket . But I'm set
add more to the 3 cords I have cut/split/stacked when the weather cools off
some more .
Oh , and to answer your question about slicing lengthwise , it's much more
efficient to split that wood with either a maul or hammer and wedge . Good
aerobic exercise too !
--
Snag

Terry Coombs wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 07:39:49 -0500:

the number of drive links varies with length . The 2 parts that you
might have damaged are the drive sprocket and the bar and both are easy
to replace .

So, by changing the number of drive links only, from 72 to 62, I could
have damaged the sprocket and bar?

I'll look for a wider-than normal bar groove, and, for the sprocket, I
guess, I look for visible damage?

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...

There are 3 main things to consider when buying a chain - pitch , drive
link thickness , and number of drive links . Most saws run either .325 or
3/8" pitch , .050 or .062 thickness , and the number of drive links varies
with length . The 2 parts that you might have damaged are the drive
sprocket and the bar and both are easy to replace .
The main things people do to chains are run them too tight and run them
dull , both will stretch the chain and make it fall off ... the best way I
found to gauge sharpness is to check the chips . Large coarse chips
indicate a sharp chain , small or "sawdust" chips indicate a dull chain .
If your cut wanders it could be 2 things , either the bar is worn or the
chain is duller on one side . If the chain can be wiggled sideways more
than just a tiny bit , the bar is probably due to be replaced .
I've been buying my chains from an ebay seller , cheaper than HD or Lowes
for a better quality chain . I also buy a chain with a "professional"
tooth profile - they cut much more aggressively , but they WILL kick back
and are not intended for Joe-the-average-homeowner to prune his maple
trees . I've currently got 3 saws , all run well , and all were given to
me by people who couldn't keep them running/cutting well . They all needed
a carb cleaning and new chains/bars , one also needed a new drive
sprocket . But I'm set add more to the 3 cords I have cut/split/stacked
when the weather cools off some more .
Oh , and to answer your question about slicing lengthwise , it's much
more efficient to split that wood with either a maul or hammer and wedge .
Good aerobic exercise too !
--
Snag

who is your preferred e-bay seller?

"Danny D." wrote in message
...
Last question is about sudden oak death.

Does *this* look like sudden oak death to you?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3885/1...4da5df50_c.jpg


http://southskyline.org/events/sudde...death-preview/

you just missed the meeting, but perhaps you can find someone knowledgeable
to fill you in.

On 9/29/2014 10:10 AM, Danny D. wrote:
So, by changing the number of drive
links only, from 72 to 62, I could
have damaged the sprocket and bar?

I'll look for a wider-than normal bar
groove, and, for the sprocket, I
guess, I look for visible damage?


A variety of chain sizes, as Pico wrote. I'd
be concerned if you took off .325 chain and
put on 3/8, that would risk damaging the sprocket.

If the same bar handles 72 and 62, it sounds like
the 72 link is .325 and the 62 link is 3/8.

Homelite also makes "lo pro" chain which is a
different size altogether.

Yes, to look for visible damage. Also perhaps
pull the side piece, look if the links and
sprocket mesh nicely, or too big / small of
spacing.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 9/29/2014 10:10 AM, Danny D. wrote:
So, by changing the number of drive
links only, from 72 to 62, I could
have damaged the sprocket and bar?

I'll look for a wider-than normal bar
groove, and, for the sprocket, I
guess, I look for visible damage?


A variety of chain sizes, as Pico wrote.

I cannot take credit for that informative post by Terry - but of course I
KNEW all that and COULD have posted it . . .

Pico Rico wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 07:31:05 -0700:

http://southskyline.org/events/sudde...death-preview/
you just missed the meeting, but perhaps you can find someone
knowledgeable to fill you in.

I'm in the propane south skyline group, but they don't send me anything
by way of events.

So I had not known about that - but it would have been useful.

Thanks.
PS: Are you local?

On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 05:33:43 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Was chain sawing a Monterey Pine today and have a few basic questions:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2941/1...77d52069_b.jpg

My main question is about the chain:

I was stupid, it seems, and I had been buying chains from Home Depot, who
only sells the Y62 chain for my 18-inch Husky 445, which I only recently
found out, really takes an H72 (which Lowes sells) chain:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2944/1...944028f121.jpg

So *maybe* that's why my chains kept falling off while cutting?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3883/1...147c05e6_c.jpg

What damage could I have done by running at least two chains (maybe 3)
that were, in effect, the wrong chains because Home Depot sold me a Y62
instead of what Lowes sold me, which is the H72 for that Husqvarna 445
chainsaw.

You had to stop and put the chain on many? times.

Pico Rico wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 07:50:57 -0700:

I cannot take credit for that informative post by Terry - but of course
I KNEW all that and COULD have posted it . . .

I never knew *anything* about chain saws, having grown up elsewhere, and
only bought this place in the mountains when I retired (to rest, I
thought).

The Husqvarna 445 owners manual lists "Technical Data" on page 32 where
it has a table which lists, for the 18-inch chain saw, two "low-kickback"
chains, the *only* difference being the "drive link thickness".

1. Chain type = Husqvarna H30/H22/H23
2. Bar length = 18 inches
3. Pitch = 0.325 inches
4. Drive link thickness = 0.050 inches (1.3 mm)
5. Maximum nose radius = 10T
6. Drive link count = 72
7. File size = 3/16 inch (4.8 mm) 85°:30°:10° 0.025 inch (0.65 mm)

It also lists an H21 "chain type" where the only difference is the gauge
and the file size:
1. Chain type = Husqvarna H21
4. Drive link thickness = 0.058 inches (1.5 mm)

And, another "chain type" of H25, where the file size and sharpening
dimensions also change, which presumably means the edges are angled
differently:
1. Chain type = Husqvarna H25
4. Drive link thickness = 0.058 inches (1.5 mm)
7. File size = 3/16 inch (4.8 mm) 60°:25°:10° 0.020 inch (0.65 mm)

What I need to look up are these confusing preceeding "H" letter
classifications.

It's even more confusing than that, because the are "trailing" letter
classifications also, apparently.

For example, I had written in the manual the original chain that came
with the chainsaw (which I had bought at Lowes) was a 72DL (whatever the
DL means), while this latest Oregon chain is just H72 with no trailing
letters.

The bad news was that the two (or three?) 62-link chains I bought from
Home Depot didn't explicitly say they fit the Husky 445, but this Oregon
box (from Lowes) says it fits Husqvarna 445 & it lists the right
dimensions as:
1. Chain type = H72 (fits Husqvarna 445, among others)
2. Bar length = 18 inches
3. Pitch = 0.325 inches
4. Gauge = 0.050 inches (1.3 mm)
5. no nose radius is provided
6. Drive link count = 72
7. File Size 3/16 inch (4.8 mm) (no degrees are provided)

Googling to make sense out of all this, and, remember, I had trusted the
Home Depot people and they steered me to the 62-link chain, I find this,
which I'm reading (I'm on hold with Oregon (aka Blont) right now.)
http://www.oregonproducts.com/homeow...o_consumer.htm

Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 16:38:46 +0000:

Googling to make sense out of all this, and, remember, I had trusted the
Home Depot people and they steered me to the 62-link chain, I find this,
which I'm reading (I'm on hold with Oregon (aka Blont) right now.)
http://www.oregonproducts.com/homeow...o_consumer.htm

Oh my! The plot thickens.

I had a nice conversation with a technical support lady at "Blont
International" (parent company of "Oregon"), who informed me that I
bought the *wrong* chains from Lowes, even though the specs are the same!

She told me that the Oregon H72 chain that I had bought fits a "standard"
bar, while the Husky 445 chainsaw comes with a "micro-lite" bar (that's
Oregon's brand name for it anyway) which takes a Husqvarna H30 chain,
which converts to an Oregon G72 chain.

She said all the dimensions are the same except the "body of the chain
has a narrower curve cutter which takes a smaller bite, needing less
power to turn".

She said that, over time, the Oregon H72 will wear the micro-lite bar
groove, whereas the Oregon G72 chain will fit.

I understood everything she said, but, she couldn't explain how, if only
the *outside* part of the chain (i.e., the "cutter") is larger, then
*how* is that going to wear the *groove* in the bar???

Anyway, when I asked her to fix her packaging, we went over what the
package *should* say, so as not to lead the *next* person astray.

Since one asterisk was already used (but not on the 445), we came up with
either of these two expressions for marketing to mull over:

Fits Husqvarna 445**
1. ** ensure your model has a standard bar
or
2. ** ensure your model does not have a micro-lite bar

When I asked her which store sells the right Oregon G72 chain, we found
none in my general vicinity; so, when I asked her to replace my chain for
me, she agreed, and I will send my used chain to:
Blont International, attn: (her name)
4909 International Way, Milwaukee Oregon, 97222 (800-223-5168)

In summary, it's very confusing that the Oregon package says *nothing*
about the Oregon H72 *not* fitting a micro-lite bar, and the Husqvarna
owners manual says nothing about the chain *having* a micro-lite bar!

The one question she didn't answer was *how* can a chain with essentially
the same dimensions (except for the cutting edge thickness) *damage* the
thinner grooved micro-lite bar?

micky wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 12:07:17 -0400:

You had to stop and put the chain on many? times.

When I asked the technical support lady at Oregon (at 800-223-5168) what
would happen when I put the Oregon S62 chain on a sprocket that takes the
Oregon G72 chain, she said it would "chatter and jump around on the drive
sprocket grooves".

She said it would eventually damage the "grooves" in the drive sprocket
(depending on whether it was a "spur" sprocket or the other kind of
sprocket, I didn't catch the name of the two types of sprockets).

What type of sprocket does this look like, to you?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3871/1...01368b98_c.jpg

Does it look damaged?

"Danny D." wrote in message
...
Pico Rico wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 07:31:05 -0700:

http://southskyline.org/events/sudde...death-preview/
you just missed the meeting, but perhaps you can find someone
knowledgeable to fill you in.

I'm in the propane south skyline group, but they don't send me anything
by way of events.

So I had not known about that - but it would have been useful.

Thanks.
PS: Are you local?

Not so local that I can stop by and help.

Terry Coombs wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 07:39:49 -0500:

There are 3 main things to consider when buying a chain - pitch ,
drive link thickness , and number of drive links .

That is useful information; but ... what confuses me is that the lady at
Oregon clearly told me the (quixotic) datapoint that the chain is
*different*, even with the same pitch, gauge, and number of links, when
used with the "micro-lite" bar.

So that's a confusing datapoint, because the pitch, gauge, and number of
drive links is the same for both the Oregon G72 chain (that, they say,
belongs on my bar) and for the Oregon H72 chain that I bought (which
apparently does *not* belong on my bar).

To get another datapoint, I called Husqvarna today at 800-487-5951,
where they patch you to a 3rd-party 1st-level support person, who can
only look up stuff before referring you to the local Husqvarna service
personnel.

The lady who answered at 800-487-5951, named Keisha, didn't know all that
much, but she was nice enough to ask me to read off the numbers on my bar
to find the right chain, which she says, is the Husqvarna H30x-72 chain,
which she says, is a "special" chain, which I can order from them, for
$34.84 (i.e., $24.85 + 9.99 S&H).

She told me I did have the special "micro-lite" bar, after she asked me
for the numbers stamped on the bar itself, which we
1. Part number = 5089261-72
2. Pitch = 0.325"
3. Gauge = 0.050"
4. Drive Links = 72DL
5. Other unknown stampings: U49, 15, 1103, & 18

So, the weird (and confusing) datapoint is that both Husqvarna and Oregon
told me that, even with the right pitch, gauge, and drive links, there
still are *two* different chains, depending on whether I have the
standard bar or the micro-lite bar (and I have the micro-lite steel bar).

Who would have known it's this inexplicably complicated, but, I still
fail to see how the micro-lite bar (which takes thinner cutters) could be
damaged when the part below the midline of the chain is supposedly the
same gauge.

Doesn't make sense (yet).

Pico Rico wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 10:52:42 -0700:

Not so local that I can stop by and help.

You, and SMS are close, so we should at least help each other with data
on here about local suppliers.

Thanks.

Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 05:36:57 +0000:

Another question I have is what are these "20" numbers indicating that
are stamped on the chain on the metal "iceberg" parts below the
waterline?
https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2947/1...74301fa4_c.jpg

Since nobody answered, I just called Oregon chain customer service again,
at 800-487-5951, who explained the "20" stamped on the Oregon H72 chain
indicated that it is a "Type 20" drive link, which, if you have the
secret decoder ring, corresponds to a 0.325" pitch, and a 0.050" gauge.

The weird thing is that this new representative, named "Becky", confirmed
that the Micro-Lite bar that I have does not take an Oregon H72 chain,
but it takes the Oregon G72 chain, both of which have the exact same
pitch, gauge, and number of drive links.

The only difference is the cutter.

Anyway, when I looked at another of my older chains (maybe the original?
), it had a "30" stamped on each of the drive links, which, Becky told
me, indicates an H30 micro-lite chain, with the smaller cutters.

Some diabolical epiphanies that come out of these conversations a
0. Knowing the pitch, gauge, and drive links (apparently) isn't enough!
1. You also need to know if the bar is designed for smaller cutters!
2. The Oregon G72 & H72 chains have the same pitch, gauge, & drive links.
3. But only the Oregon G72 fits my Micro-Lite bar (thinner rails?).
4. The 20 or 30 stamped on the drive links indicates an H20 or H30 chain.
5. I can *find* the drive links by looking for that specific stamp!
6. There are two kinds of sprockets, but I apparently have the "spur".
7. A chain with 62 drive links will chatter & damage the sprocket spurs.
8. The H30X-72 chain costs about $35 if I have Husqvarna ship it to me.

The only inexplicable thing that comes out of these two phone calls are
that a chain of the exact same pitch, gauge, and number of drive links
can be different in cutter dimensions, such that it won't fit a standard
bar.

I find that confusing because the Oregon package doesn't say what both
the Oregon (800-223-5168) and Husqvarna (800-487-5951) support personnel
say.

Pico Rico wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...

There are 3 main things to consider when buying a chain - pitch ,
drive link thickness , and number of drive links . Most saws run
either .325 or 3/8" pitch , .050 or .062 thickness , and the number
of drive links varies with length . The 2 parts that you might have
damaged are the drive sprocket and the bar and both are easy to
replace . The main things people do to chains are run them too
tight and run them dull , both will stretch the chain and make it
fall off ... the best way I found to gauge sharpness is to check the
chips . Large coarse chips indicate a sharp chain , small or
"sawdust" chips indicate a dull chain . If your cut wanders it could
be 2 things , either the bar is worn or the chain is duller on one
side . If the chain can be wiggled sideways more than just a tiny
bit , the bar is probably due to be replaced . I've been buying my
chains from an ebay seller , cheaper than HD or Lowes for a better
quality chain . I also buy a chain with a "professional" tooth
profile - they cut much more aggressively , but they WILL kick back
and are not intended for Joe-the-average-homeowner to prune his
maple trees . I've currently got 3 saws , all run well , and all
were given to me by people who couldn't keep them running/cutting
well . They all needed a carb cleaning and new chains/bars , one
also needed a new drive sprocket . But I'm set add to more to the 3
cords I have cut/split/stacked when the weather cools off some more
. Oh , and to answer your question about slicing lengthwise , it's
much more efficient to split that wood with either a maul or hammer
and wedge . Good aerobic exercise too ! --
Snag

who is your preferred e-bay seller?


It's Frawley's Saw Shop , www.loggerchain.com . I think they cater pretty
much to the pro logger market , I really like the chains I bought from them
.. My last purchase was a bar/chain for my 16" Stihl 025 , it's branded
Forester , and it's the cuttingest mofo I've ever used . It came from the
ebay seller winrider in KCMO .
I'm kinda new to woodcutting , we just started heating with wood last
winter . But I learned real quick how not to dull a chain unnecessarily ,
and how to sharpen one properly .

--
Snag

Danny D. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 07:39:49 -0500:

There are 3 main things to consider when buying a chain - pitch ,
drive link thickness , and number of drive links .

That is useful information; but ... what confuses me is that the lady
at Oregon clearly told me the (quixotic) datapoint that the chain is
*different*, even with the same pitch, gauge, and number of links,
when used with the "micro-lite" bar.

So that's a confusing datapoint, because the pitch, gauge, and number
of drive links is the same for both the Oregon G72 chain (that, they
say, belongs on my bar) and for the Oregon H72 chain that I bought
(which apparently does *not* belong on my bar).

To get another datapoint, I called Husqvarna today at 800-487-5951,
where they patch you to a 3rd-party 1st-level support person, who can
only look up stuff before referring you to the local Husqvarna service
personnel.

The lady who answered at 800-487-5951, named Keisha, didn't know all
that much, but she was nice enough to ask me to read off the numbers
on my bar to find the right chain, which she says, is the Husqvarna
H30x-72 chain, which she says, is a "special" chain, which I can
order from them, for $34.84 (i.e., $24.85 + 9.99 S&H).

She told me I did have the special "micro-lite" bar, after she asked
me for the numbers stamped on the bar itself, which we
1. Part number = 5089261-72
2. Pitch = 0.325"
3. Gauge = 0.050"
4. Drive Links = 72DL
5. Other unknown stampings: U49, 15, 1103, & 18

So, the weird (and confusing) datapoint is that both Husqvarna and
Oregon told me that, even with the right pitch, gauge, and drive
links, there still are *two* different chains, depending on whether I
have the standard bar or the micro-lite bar (and I have the
micro-lite steel bar).

Who would have known it's this inexplicably complicated, but, I still
fail to see how the micro-lite bar (which takes thinner cutters)
could be damaged when the part below the midline of the chain is
supposedly the same gauge.

Doesn't make sense (yet).

I suspect the wider chain puts more stress/wear on the slot . I have no
experience with Husqvarna saws , though I've heard they're pretty good .
I've learned just enough past the basics to keep my equipment running and
cutting well ...

--
Snag

Danny D. wrote:
micky wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 12:07:17 -0400:

You had to stop and put the chain on many? times.

When I asked the technical support lady at Oregon (at 800-223-5168)
what would happen when I put the Oregon S62 chain on a sprocket that
takes the Oregon G72 chain, she said it would "chatter and jump
around on the drive sprocket grooves".

She said it would eventually damage the "grooves" in the drive
sprocket (depending on whether it was a "spur" sprocket or the other
kind of sprocket, I didn't catch the name of the two types of
sprockets).

What type of sprocket does this look like, to you?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3871/1...01368b98_c.jpg

Does it look damaged?

Couldn't tell you which type , but that sprocket looks almost new . A worn
sprocket will have grooves on the top and drive face of the teeth .

--
Snag

Terry Coombs wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 15:11:11 -0500:

Couldn't tell you which type , but that sprocket looks almost new . A
worn sprocket will have grooves on the top and drive face of the teeth .

I had never even *looked* at the sprocket before, so, thanks for letting
me know.

I hate to throw away tools but I just can't think of an alternate use for
the S62 and Y62 chains that I have in my chainbox.

I wonder what a used chain is good for?

Terry Coombs wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 15:06:35 -0500:

I suspect the wider chain puts more stress/wear on the slot . I have no
experience with Husqvarna saws

Apparently even Oregon bars can be "micro-lite" as this explanation shows:
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/mi...oLiteBroch.pdf

"Micro-Lite is the name for the lean, mean narrow-kerf chains and
narrow-kerf guide bars from Oregon. The advantage of using a leaner
narrow-kerf cutting system is that it requires less power from the
saw to make the same length of cut. By cutting a narrower kerf, the
saw does not have to remove as much wood."

You'd think the Husqvarna owners manual would mention that a 'standard'
chain, even if it's the right pitch, gauge, and number of drive links,
will eventually damage the narrow-kerf bar.

The Oregon PDF goes on to explain what's *different* about the narrow-kerf
bars, which still makes no sense to me because the incompatible chains
are the *same* pitch, gauge, and number of drive links!

"To help a Micro-Lite chain cut its narrower kerf, Micro-Lite
bars are built slightly thinner than standard bars. If Micro-Lite
chain is run on a standard bar, there may be hang-ups during the cut.
And if standard chain is run on a Micro-Lite bar, all the performance
advantages of cutting a narrower kerf will be lost."

That doesn't go so far to say that the bar will be damaged, but, clearly,
both the Husqvarna and Oregon customer service personnel told me that
using the non-microlite chain on a micro-lite bar, will damage the bar,
even though the chains are the same dimensions for pitch, gauge, and
number of drive links.

This data is confusing, to me.

Danny D. wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 20:51:58 +0000:

This data is confusing, to me.

Since I was confused by the fact that the new H72 chain of identical
pitch, gauge and number of drive links as the G72 chain would *not* fit
my 18-inch Husqvarna 445 chainsaw recently bought at Lowes, I called
Oregon directly at the number shown in that Micro-Lite brochure
(503-653-8881):
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/mi...oLiteBroch.pdf

At that number, I asked to speak with their most knowledgeable guy, who
turned out to be "Vic" who told me that the 18-inch Husqvarna 445 could
have come with any of three (3) different bars:
1. Standard-kerf bar, 0.050 gauge, 0.325 pitch, 72 drive links, or,
2. Narrow-kerf bar, 0.050 gauge, 0.325 pitch, 72 drive links, or even,
3. what he called a "3/8-inch 50-gauge bar".

I told him that the Oregon H72 chain package should say something like:
** ensure that your bar is a STANDARD-kerf bar!
And he said he'd get that information over to the right people.

He agreed that, even though the pitch, gauge, and number of drive links
are the same, the Oregon H72 is the *wrong* chain for the narrow-kerf bar
that is on my Husqvarna 445 (the right chain is the Oregon G72).

Vic explained that the cutting edge is a "few thousandths" thinner on the
narrow-kerf chains, and that the "rails" of the narrow-kerf bars is
proportionately thinner (hence, the bar itself is thinner).

When I countered that the gauge is the same, he mentioned that the
*depth* of the groove on the bar is the same; it's just that the rails on
the bar are different.

He wasn't totally sure what damage would result, but he said that the
wider cutting edge "could" hit something inside the chain saw (which he
agreed was probably unlikely); and he said that the top-heavy wider-kerf
chain "could" possibly damage the admittedly thinner rails of the narrow-
kerf bar.

All in all, the takeaway is that it is *not* sufficient to match a
chainsaw by the pitch, gauge, and number of drive links. One also has to
match the width of the kerf cut by the cutting edge.

Sigh. Who knew? Not me.

On 9/29/2014 10:50 AM, Pico Rico wrote:

A variety of chain sizes, as Pico wrote.

I cannot take credit for that informative post by Terry - but of course I
KNEW all that and COULD have posted it . . .


Snag called me some bad names, and said he'd
filtered me, so I filtered his ### back. I
only see him in others reply. Sorry for the
confusion.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/29/2014 4:12 PM, Danny D. wrote:
I hate to throw away tools but I just can't think of an alternate use for
the S62 and Y62 chains that I have in my chainbox.

I wonder what a used chain is good for?


When my saw died,I had two chains, new in box.
I listed them on Ebay with no reserve. One sold
for a few bucks, other sold for a penny. Some
lucky fellow got a nice chain, cheap.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 17:33:13 -0400:

When my saw died,I had two chains, new in box. I listed them on Ebay
with no reserve. One sold for a few bucks, other sold for a penny. Some
lucky fellow got a nice chain, cheap.

I've *never* sold anything on ebay, craigslist, etc., and I'm not about
to start.

Now that I'm in the mountains, even a car isn't worth someone driving all
the way to take a look at it.

Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 17:33:13 -0400:

When my saw died,I had two chains, new in box. I listed them on Ebay
with no reserve. One sold for a few bucks, other sold for a penny.
Some lucky fellow got a nice chain, cheap.

I've *never* sold anything on ebay, craigslist, etc., and I'm not
about to start.

Now that I'm in the mountains, even a car isn't worth someone driving
all the way to take a look at it.

Exactly which mountains are you in ? I'm in the Ozarks myself ... North
central Arkansas to be more specific .

--
Snag

Terry Coombs wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 18:35:43 -0500:

Exactly which mountains are you in ? I'm in the Ozarks myself ... North
central Arkansas to be more specific .

Santa Cruz mountains.
They're really just hills, at 3,000 feet max elevation.

On Monday, September 29, 2014 1:11:11 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Danny D. wrote:

micky wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 12:07:17 -0400:

She said it would eventually damage the "grooves" in the drive
sprocket (depending on whether it was a "spur" sprocket or the other
kind of sprocket, I didn't catch the name of the two types of
sprockets).

What type of sprocket does this look like, to you?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3871/1...01368b98_c.jpg
Does it look damaged?

Couldn't tell you which type , but that sprocket looks almost new . A worn
sprocket will have grooves on the top and drive face of the teeth .

It is a "spur" sprocket and it looks undamaged. The other type is a "rim" sprocket. Difference is the spur is part of the clutch and that "drum/sprocket" has to be changed to get a new sprocket. the "rim sprocket" is just what it sounds like, a circular rim gizmo with drive links fitting down through the rim. Those are easily changed as they are held on with only a circlip. Very few saws come with the "rim" but are easily converted. Once converted worn sprockets are very cheap to replace.

Harry K.

Harry K wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 21:52:48 -0700:

It is a "spur" sprocket and it looks undamaged. The other type is a
"rim" sprocket. Difference is the spur is part of the clutch and that
"drum/sprocket" has to be changed to get a new sprocket. the "rim
sprocket" is just what it sounds like, a circular rim gizmo with drive
links fitting down through the rim. Those are easily changed as they
are held on with only a circlip. Very few saws come with the "rim" but
are easily converted. Once converted worn sprockets are very cheap to
replace.

Thanks for confirming that the Husky 445 uses a "spur" sprocket.
Mine has 7 teeth, so, thanks for letting me know they looked good.

The fact that it's undamaged is nice, as I used the wrong chain for a
while on it, which had the wrong number of drive links (62 versus 72).

Given what I've learned today, I'm sending the H72 chain out to Husqvarna
for a replacement with a G72 chain, even though both chains have the
*same* pitch, gauge, and drive link number (because the kerf is smaller
with the G72, and my bar was designed for the smaller kerf by having
smaller rails, I'm told ... although that doesn't really make sense).

On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 20:12:50 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Terry Coombs wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 15:11:11 -0500:

Couldn't tell you which type , but that sprocket looks almost new . A
worn sprocket will have grooves on the top and drive face of the teeth .

I had never even *looked* at the sprocket before, so, thanks for letting
me know.

I hate to throw away tools but I just can't think of an alternate use for
the S62 and Y62 chains that I have in my chainbox.

I wonder what a used chain is good for?

Is there a Freecycle where you live? A mailing list where people give
away things they don't need anymore to other people subscribed to the
list. Subscription is free too.

On 9/30/2014 2:33 AM, micky wrote:
On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 20:12:50 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

I wonder what a used chain is good for?

Is there a Freecycle where you live? A mailing list where people give
away things they don't need anymore to other people subscribed to the
list. Subscription is free too.


Freecycle is a beautiful concept. Sadly,
the one in my part of the world is
horribly mismanaged.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/29/2014 7:14 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 17:33:13 -0400:

When my saw died,I had two chains, new in box. I listed them on Ebay
with no reserve. One sold for a few bucks, other sold for a penny. Some
lucky fellow got a nice chain, cheap.

I've *never* sold anything on ebay, craigslist, etc., and I'm not about
to start.

I'd suggest you try it. If nothing else, it give you
a reason to post to AHR.

"I sold my saw chain for a penny, by Danny D."
135 lines of original text.
472 follow up posts.
17 spinoff threads, which had
1063 follow up posts.
(as reported by Badgolferman.)


..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Charlie+ wrote, on Tue, 30 Sep 2014 08:06:29 +0100:

So what is the difference between the kerf width of the three chains? I
doubt that a few thou would start catching on the chainsaw body unless
the body clearances are tighter than they should be on any chainsaw. You
may get accelerated wear on the bar rails if you tend to tilt the bar in
the kerf with the wider chains. But the chain you got should be usable
in my guestimation, just try to keep the bar straight in the cut.

These are good questions.

All I know is the difference in cutter is a few thousandths.

How many? Vic said he didn't know, but when I had pressed him, he said
not more than 5 or 10 thousandths.

When I pressed him on how that would damage the bar with the thinner
rails, he said that that's what they tell him.

So, I have had three (3) customer service personnel tell me the same
thing - but not one of them can tell me why.