If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in my small engines is it ok not to use any of the various stablizers? How long will the high octane be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?

On Tue, 2 Sep 2014 03:15:28 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in my small engines is it ok
not to use any of the various stablizers? How long will the high octane
be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?

Maybe you could specify what "my small engines" is ?
Model cars, lawnmower, saw ?
[]'s

--
Don't be evil - Google 2004
We have a new policy - Google 2012

On 9/2/2014 6:15 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in
my small engines is it ok not to use any of the
various stablizers? How long will the high
octane be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?


A couple decades ago, we used to have trouble
with gasoline going stale, long before the
mandated ethanol.

So, I'd think stabilizer is a good idea. Unsure
the time frame, probably six months to a year.

I've had moment when an engine was needed, had
been stored with old gasoline. this being 1999
or so, before ethanol was mandated. Honda
generator, and needed for a power cut. The engine
started after a spray of ether on the air filter,
and then it ran fine after that. The fellow
wanted to put in new gas, so he sent his son
for gas. The only place that had electricity for
the pumps was far distance, and big line of cars
waiting to buy gas.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Tuesday, September 2, 2014 7:59:14 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/2/2014 6:15 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:

If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in

my small engines is it ok not to use any of the

various stablizers? How long will the high

octane be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?





A couple decades ago, we used to have trouble

with gasoline going stale, long before the

mandated ethanol.



So, I'd think stabilizer is a good idea. Unsure

the time frame, probably six months to a year.




+1

On 9/2/2014 8:21 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, September 2, 2014 7:59:14 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
A couple decades ago, we used to have trouble
with gasoline going stale, long before the
mandated ethanol.

So, I'd think stabilizer is a good idea. Unsure
the time frame, probably six months to a year.

+1


Thanks, young fellah.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Frank Thompson wrote, on Tue, 02 Sep 2014 03:15:28 -0700:

If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in my small engines is it ok
not to use any of the various stablizers? How long will the high octane
be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?

Not sure where you are, but, in the states, we measure the anti-knock
rating using a combination of the research and motor method, and then
average the two, to come up with the anti-knock index, e.g., 87AKI.

It's rare for a small engine, I think, in the USA, to be designed for
a great anti-knock index than that "Regular". As you know, putting
a gasoline of higher anti-knock qualities than designed into *any*
engine which is both already running properly & not subject to excessive
heat and/or loads, can provide absolutely no positive value.

Summarizing that as saying that the octane rating is designed into the
engine and most "small engines" are designed for 87AKI here in the
states, why would you even *want* to put gasoline whose flame front
moves slower (so to speak) into an engine, unless it's designed for
such fuels?

On Tue, 2 Sep 2014 14:13:05 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:



It's rare for a small engine, I think, in the USA, to be designed for
a great anti-knock index than that "Regular". As you know, putting
a gasoline of higher anti-knock qualities than designed into *any*
engine which is both already running properly & not subject to excessive
heat and/or loads, can provide absolutely no positive value.

Summarizing that as saying that the octane rating is designed into the
engine and most "small engines" are designed for 87AKI here in the
states, why would you even *want* to put gasoline whose flame front
moves slower (so to speak) into an engine, unless it's designed for
such fuels?

He is not concerned about octane ratings. If you read the post, you'd
see he mentioned it has no ethanol. Many small engines have long term
problems with ethanol and many of us are using gas without it.

"Frank Thompson" wrote in message
...
If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in my small engines is it ok not
to use any of the various stablizers? How long will the high octane be
safe to use w/o the stabilizer?


It should be good for atleast 6 months.

No more than I use, I still get the gas without the ethanol and put in the
Stabil. That way I don't wory about it.

I have 3 of the 5 gallon containers and when two get empty I take them and
refill. Before I leave the house I put in the required ammount of Stabil. I
have a 5 kw generator that I start every couple of weeks, cahin saw may sit
for a long time and I never know when I may need to add some more gas to the
tank , so by having the stabil in all the gas I don't worry. I probably
average using about 2 gallons of gas a week. That would make my gas staying
around for 5 or so weeks in the summer, and lots longer in the winter as
from about Novermber to March I don't mow so the gas is not usually used
during that time.




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Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 2 Sep 2014 14:13:05 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:



It's rare for a small engine, I think, in the USA, to be designed for
a great anti-knock index than that "Regular". As you know, putting
a gasoline of higher anti-knock qualities than designed into *any*
engine which is both already running properly & not subject to
excessive heat and/or loads, can provide absolutely no positive
value.

Summarizing that as saying that the octane rating is designed into
the engine and most "small engines" are designed for 87AKI here in
the states, why would you even *want* to put gasoline whose flame
front moves slower (so to speak) into an engine, unless it's
designed for such fuels?

He is not concerned about octane ratings. If you read the post, you'd
see he mentioned it has no ethanol. Many small engines have long term
problems with ethanol and many of us are using gas without it.

And some of us are lucky enough to have more than one local vendor for
non-eth gas . I find it interesting that the town of less than 3,000
population where I live has non-eth available at multiple outlets , yet a
city of near a million Memphis Tn doesn't have a single one ...

--
Snag

On Tue, 2 Sep 2014 11:03:36 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:



And some of us are lucky enough to have more than one local vendor for
non-eth gas . I find it interesting that the town of less than 3,000
population where I live has non-eth available at multiple outlets , yet a
city of near a million Memphis Tn doesn't have a single one ...


The use of ethanol is mandated in some regions due to pollution and
air quality. Much of the areas are high population and lots of
traffic. That is an advantage of a small town far from the
interstates and congestion.

On 09/02/2014 11:03 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
....

... I find it interesting that the town of less than 3,000
population where I live has non-eth available at multiple outlets , yet a
city of near a millionMemphis Tn doesn't have a single one ...

That's owing to the emission requirements to meet ozone and other
pollution limits are much more stringent in the higher-population areas
owing simply to there being so many more sources in a confined area.
W/o the NOx-reduction of the ethanol blends, places like Memphis would
exceed those limits routinely and that costs them big bucks in loss of
federal dollars...

--

On Tue, 2 Sep 2014 14:13:05 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Frank Thompson wrote, on Tue, 02 Sep 2014 03:15:28 -0700:

If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in my small engines is it ok
not to use any of the various stablizers? How long will the high octane
be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?

Not sure where you are, but, in the states, we measure the anti-knock
rating using a combination of the research and motor method, and then
average the two, to come up with the anti-knock index, e.g., 87AKI.

It's rare for a small engine, I think, in the USA, to be designed for
a great anti-knock index than that "Regular". As you know, putting
a gasoline of higher anti-knock qualities than designed into *any*
engine which is both already running properly & not subject to excessive
heat and/or loads, can provide absolutely no positive value.

Summarizing that as saying that the octane rating is designed into the
engine and most "small engines" are designed for 87AKI here in the
states, why would you even *want* to put gasoline whose flame front
moves slower (so to speak) into an engine, unless it's designed for
such fuels?
Danny, the reason for using premium is that in many areas ONLY
premium is available without ethanol. Ethanol can cause problems in
seasonal small engines. Using high octane fuel will NOT cause problems
on these engines, whether 2 stroke, L-Head or OHV.
And you do not undersdtand octane.

wrote in news:3hsb0a5kbuvpf72lhirv9d8niaqf9b6ukq@
4ax.com:

Danny, the reason for using premium is that in many areas ONLY
premium is available without ethanol. Ethanol can cause problems in
seasonal small engines. Using high octane fuel will NOT cause problems
on these engines, whether 2 stroke, L-Head or OHV.

And you do not undersdtand octane.


There is so very much that Danny-Boi doesn't understand.

Zaky Waky wrote, on Tue, 02 Sep 2014 17:22:28 +0000:

There is so very much that Danny-Boi doesn't understand.

I apologize for missing the part about the ethanol being important,
and *not* the octane rating.

However, looking back at the OP that Frank Thompson wrote:
If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in my small engines is it ok
not to use any of the various stablizers? How long will the high octane
be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?

Since the octane rating of the fuel is *higher* than the engine was
designed for, we can *remove* the octane rating from the equation!

The original question more appropriately becomes:
If I use ... gasoline w/o alcohol in my small engines is it ok
not to use any of the various stabilizers?
How long will the ... gasoline be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?

The first sentence merely becomes almost meaningless, because all
he is asking is whether gasoline without alcohol is "ok" without
stabilizers. Since the engines were most likely designed with
gasoline without alcohol in mind, then of course they can be used
without stabilizers. Even if they were designed for fuels with
alcohol in mind, they can *still* be used without stabiliers.

So, the first sentence is almost meaningless since neither the
octane rating nor the dearth of alcohol has anything to do with
the engine, in practice.

So, the only question that matters is how long gasoline lasts in the can
before it "needs" stabilizers,and, this question has been hashed to death
already.

Nobody really can give a definite time, and it matters greatly what the
storage (and weather) conditions are, but months is an appropriate gross
time frame.

Anyway, I do apologize for not realizing the alcohol was the key concept,
and not the octane. However when you correct for the fact the octane
rating can't possibly have any effect on an engine which wasn't knocking
in the first place, and that the octane rating has nothing to do with
stabilization, then you get a different initial question.

The initial question merely turns into a question of how long gasoline
lasts before it needs stabilizers, and the answer varies, but it in terms
of months.

On Tue, 2 Sep 2014 03:15:28 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in my small engines is it ok not to use any of the various stablizers? How long will the high octane be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?

You mean like Sta-bil?

By alcohol you mean ethanol?

I have never heard that ethanol had anaything to do with the need for
Sta-bil, and I remember that gas got old, wouldn't start cars, etc. and
maybe even clogged carburetors long before ethanol was in use.

That's what sta-bil was meant to overcome and afaict, it does a good
job, so you should use it. If you use a lot, maybe you can buy it for
less in big containers.

On Wed, 03 Sep 2014 20:34:19 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Tue, 2 Sep 2014 03:15:28 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

If I use high octane gasolene w/o alcohol in my small engines is it ok not to use any of the various stablizers? How long will the high octane be safe to use w/o the stabilizer?

You mean like Sta-bil?

By alcohol you mean ethanol?

I have never heard that ethanol had anaything to do with the need for
Sta-bil, and I remember that gas got old, wouldn't start cars, etc. and
maybe even clogged carburetors long before ethanol was in use.

That's what sta-bil was meant to overcome and afaict, it does a good
job, so you should use it. If you use a lot, maybe you can buy it for
less in big containers.
Ethanol gasoline attracts moisture, and more moisture in the gasoline
makes it deteriotate faster (due to oxidation). Stabilizers are more
critical in ethanol enhanced fuels - and generally a different
stabilizer is recommended.
Fresh Non ethanol fuel, stored in a sealed container in a is generally
safe for at least 6 months without stabilizer. Left in an open
(vented) tank or carburetor cut that time in half.

I generally store both my lawn mower and snowblower with the carb
drained and the tank full of Shell Premium and have absolutely no
problem starting next season.. My old snowblower did not have a fuel
shutoff, so I could not drain the carb without running the tank dry -
and it was always a bit of work to get it started the first couple of
times -sometimes had to take the carb apart.

The chainsaw has a totally sealed (pressurized) tank - started just
fine after 2 full years not being used. (again, NO ethanol)

Old lawn tractor left sitting in a friend's driving shed for 2 years,
the gas STUNK and the carb was all gummed up - regular unleaded
(ethanol) gas.

On 9/3/14, 3:01 PM, Danny D. wrote:


The initial question merely turns into a question of how long gasoline
lasts before it needs stabilizers, and the answer varies, but it in terms
of months.

Echo says it can go bad in 30 days. The big problem is that ethanol
draws moisture, and that gums up carburetors and engines. In
particular, if there is any venting of a gas can or gas tank, water will
accumulate, depending on the humidity level and temperature fluctuations.

When the water content reaches 3/4 ounce per gallon, water and ethanol
will start to drop to the bottom. Besides causing corrosion and
varnish, it can wreck a 2-cycle engine because the water-ethanol doesn't
have oil.

They recommend shaking before you pour. I can imagine another solution.
Store your gas can tilted so any water-ethanol is along one side of the
bottom. Draw gas with a siphon pump whose tube doesn't quite reach the
bottom. When the can is nearly empty, pour the remaining gas into a jar
and see if any water-ethanol settles.

I remember when it was common to see a little jar along a fuel line, so
you could drain any water that settled.

On 9/3/2014 9:44 PM, wrote:

Old lawn tractor left sitting in a friend's driving shed for 2 years,
the gas STUNK and the carb was all gummed up - regular unleaded
(ethanol) gas.


I've found that hydroxide based oven cleaner
does a nice job for cleaning green carb parts.
Dissemble, put the parts in a spaghetti strainer.
Spray, wait a minute or two. Rinse, dry. Spin
cycle not recommended. Parts get lost. Ha, ha.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

J Burns wrote, on Wed, 03 Sep 2014 22:15:45 -0400:

Echo says it can go bad in 30 days. The big problem is that ethanol
draws moisture, and that gums up carburetors and engines.

That would be a rare occasion, but, as I had said, it matters greatly
the weather conditions. Here, in California, where it doesn't rain for
10 months of the year, gasoline would last longer than it does in the
jungles of southeast asia.

This question has been asked and hashed out so many times that you
and I won't be able to add to the record, other than to repeat that
months is a reasonable time frame.

On Thursday, September 4, 2014 9:29:28 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
J Burns wrote, on Wed, 03 Sep 2014 22:15:45 -0400:



Echo says it can go bad in 30 days. The big problem is that ethanol

draws moisture, and that gums up carburetors and engines.



That would be a rare occasion, but, as I had said, it matters greatly

the weather conditions. Here, in California, where it doesn't rain for

10 months of the year, gasoline would last longer than it does in the

jungles of southeast asia.



This question has been asked and hashed out so many times that you

and I won't be able to add to the record, other than to repeat that

months is a reasonable time frame.

And the effects vary from engine to engine. My Sears snowblower with a
Tecumseh engine fouls in just a few months, even with stabilizer. All
the other small engines, eg lawn mower, string trimmer, go for longer,
year after year, with no problem. Lawn mower sits from mid Dec to April,
never a problem.

On 9/4/14, 9:29 AM, Danny D. wrote:
J Burns wrote, on Wed, 03 Sep 2014 22:15:45 -0400:

Echo says it can go bad in 30 days. The big problem is that ethanol
draws moisture, and that gums up carburetors and engines.

That would be a rare occasion, but, as I had said, it matters greatly
the weather conditions. Here, in California, where it doesn't rain for
10 months of the year, gasoline would last longer than it does in the
jungles of southeast asia.

This question has been asked and hashed out so many times that you
and I won't be able to add to the record, other than to repeat that
months is a reasonable time frame.

As Trader said, the engines vary. After a month, the brush cutter I
bought about 1983 will be hard to start. Then I'll find that the
mixture is either too lean or too rich. I may have to take the
carburetor apart and use a q-tip to remove gunk from a screen. For some
reason, when I get it running, a tiny bit of Sea Foam in the tank will
clear up problems. I haven't figured out what's in Sea Foam that will
clean a carburetor.

For decades, I've been mixing my 2-cycle fuel in a pint- or quart-sized
soda bottle. It was sitting around too long if I mixed a gallon. In a
soda bottle, I can see that the oil is fully mixed. If the bottom is
clear, I can see any water-ethanol. Best of all, it's sealed, so it
can't pick up moisture.

The fuel tank on the brush cutter is another matter. I find it best to
leave it nearly empty. If fuel can absorb a certain amount of water per
gallon, less fuel will absorb less water.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/3/2014 9:44 PM, wrote:

Old lawn tractor left sitting in a friend's driving shed for 2 years,
the gas STUNK and the carb was all gummed up - regular unleaded
(ethanol) gas.


I've found that hydroxide based oven cleaner
does a nice job for cleaning green carb parts.
Dissemble, put the parts in a spaghetti strainer.
Spray, wait a minute or two. Rinse, dry. Spin
cycle not recommended. Parts get lost. Ha, ha.

Hmm,
I just let all small engines run dry at the end of season. Store them
in tool shed. At the start of season fill tank up with fresh fuel, ~5
pulls it starts and run. Been doing this as long as I remember, no
serious problem. Of course I am crazy about regular PM. Feel, Inspect,
Tighten, Clean, Adjust, Lubricate. An old Chinese saying, "No trouble,
if you prepare ahead".

On 9/4/2014 4:02 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hmm,
Feel, Inspect,
Tighten, Clean, Adjust, Lubricate. An old Chinese saying, "No trouble,
if you prepare ahead".

Now, that's a new acronym for me. Fictal. I may use
that some time.

"So, lawn mower shop? I want a fictal for my mower."
--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/4/14, 4:02 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:


Hmm,
I just let all small engines run dry at the end of season. Store them
in tool shed. At the start of season fill tank up with fresh fuel, ~5
pulls it starts and run. Been doing this as long as I remember, no
serious problem. Of course I am crazy about regular PM. Feel, Inspect,
Tighten, Clean, Adjust, Lubricate. An old Chinese saying, "No trouble,
if you prepare ahead".

FICTAL is Latin for DECEIVE. You can't fool me! Anyone with a lick of
sense knows: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/4/2014 4:02 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hmm,
Feel, Inspect,
Tighten, Clean, Adjust, Lubricate. An old Chinese saying, "No trouble,
if you prepare ahead".

Now, that's a new acronym for me. Fictal. I may use
that some time.

"So, lawn mower shop? I want a fictal for my mower."
Hmmm,
That is first thing I learned in the service. FITCAL....
They drilled into my head at advance boot camp, LOL!
Some things you learn lasts life time.

On Thu, 04 Sep 2014 15:49:07 -0400, J Burns
wrote:

On 9/4/14, 9:29 AM, Danny D. wrote:
J Burns wrote, on Wed, 03 Sep 2014 22:15:45 -0400:

Echo says it can go bad in 30 days. The big problem is that ethanol
draws moisture, and that gums up carburetors and engines.

That would be a rare occasion, but, as I had said, it matters greatly
the weather conditions. Here, in California, where it doesn't rain for
10 months of the year, gasoline would last longer than it does in the
jungles of southeast asia.

This question has been asked and hashed out so many times that you
and I won't be able to add to the record, other than to repeat that
months is a reasonable time frame.

As Trader said, the engines vary. After a month, the brush cutter I
bought about 1983 will be hard to start. Then I'll find that the
mixture is either too lean or too rich. I may have to take the
carburetor apart and use a q-tip to remove gunk from a screen. For some
reason, when I get it running, a tiny bit of Sea Foam in the tank will
clear up problems. I haven't figured out what's in Sea Foam that will
clean a carburetor.
I don't know exactly what it is either, but it sure works!!!

For decades, I've been mixing my 2-cycle fuel in a pint- or quart-sized
soda bottle. It was sitting around too long if I mixed a gallon. In a
soda bottle, I can see that the oil is fully mixed. If the bottom is
clear, I can see any water-ethanol. Best of all, it's sealed, so it
can't pick up moisture.

The fuel tank on the brush cutter is another matter. I find it best to
leave it nearly empty. If fuel can absorb a certain amount of water per
gallon, less fuel will absorb less water.

On Thu, 04 Sep 2014 14:50:16 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/4/2014 4:02 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hmm,
Feel, Inspect,
Tighten, Clean, Adjust, Lubricate. An old Chinese saying, "No trouble,
if you prepare ahead".

Now, that's a new acronym for me. Fictal. I may use
that some time.

"So, lawn mower shop? I want a fictal for my mower."
Hmmm,
That is first thing I learned in the service. FITCAL....
They drilled into my head at advance boot camp, LOL!
Some things you learn lasts life time.
For me it's always been CLEFT
Clean, Lubricate,Examine, Feel, and Tighten.

Nice and easy to remember

On Thu, 04 Sep 2014 16:45:36 -0400, J Burns
wrote:

On 9/4/14, 4:02 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:


Hmm,
I just let all small engines run dry at the end of season. Store them
in tool shed. At the start of season fill tank up with fresh fuel, ~5
pulls it starts and run. Been doing this as long as I remember, no
serious problem. Of course I am crazy about regular PM. Feel, Inspect,
Tighten, Clean, Adjust, Lubricate. An old Chinese saying, "No trouble,
if you prepare ahead".

FICTAL is Latin for DECEIVE. You can't fool me! Anyone with a lick of
sense knows: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
And it will break for sure!!!

J Burns wrote:

I haven't figured out what's in Sea Foam that will
clean a carburetor.

I'm not a big believer in snake oil but Sea Foam is one product I've had
success with.

wrote:
On Thu, 04 Sep 2014 16:45:36 -0400, J Burns
wrote:

On 9/4/14, 4:02 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:


Hmm,
I just let all small engines run dry at the end of season. Store them
in tool shed. At the start of season fill tank up with fresh fuel, ~5
pulls it starts and run. Been doing this as long as I remember, no
serious problem. Of course I am crazy about regular PM. Feel, Inspect,
Tighten, Clean, Adjust, Lubricate. An old Chinese saying, "No trouble,
if you prepare ahead".

FICTAL is Latin for DECEIVE. You can't fool me! Anyone with a lick of
sense knows: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
And it will break for sure!!!

Hi,
Then it just falls apart, not break, LOL!

On Thursday, September 4, 2014 3:49:07 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:
On 9/4/14, 9:29 AM, Danny D. wrote:

J Burns wrote, on Wed, 03 Sep 2014 22:15:45 -0400:

Echo says it can go bad in 30 days.

That's then opinion of my small engine repairman also.

After a month, the brush cutter I bought about 1983 will be hard to start.


My 2013 brush cutter give me prob with the fuel one year later.. I had been careful with the fuel but it still happened. Even after draining the fuel tank and running engine until carb used what was in it there still was enough
left in carb to cause prob. I believe that if they had put in an external drain on the bowl it would have not have happened. Called Briggs & Stratton
and they agreed. They said on my model,only solution was to dismantle carb and take of prob.


For decades, I've been mixing my 2-cycle fuel in a pint- or quart-sized
soda bottle. It was sitting around too long if I mixed a gallon.

Great idea... thanks .. I will try that... chain saw fuel going bad has always
been a prob since they they started this alcohol additive to gasoline.

On 9/5/14, 5:22 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
On Thursday, September 4, 2014 3:49:07 PM UTC-4, J Burns wrote:
On 9/4/14, 9:29 AM, Danny D. wrote:

J Burns wrote, on Wed, 03 Sep 2014 22:15:45 -0400:

Echo says it can go bad in 30 days.

That's then opinion of my small engine repairman also.

After a month, the brush cutter I bought about 1983 will be hard
to start.


My 2013 brush cutter give me prob with the fuel one year later.. I
had been careful with the fuel but it still happened. Even after
draining the fuel tank and running engine until carb used what was
in it there still was enough left in carb to cause prob. I believe
that if they had put in an external drain on the bowl it would have
not have happened. Called Briggs & Stratton and they agreed. They
said on my model,only solution was to dismantle carb and take of
prob.

I guess my term "brush cutter" was wasn't a good description. That's
what Hoffbro and Troybuilt called it. It's a string trimmer with a
couple of optional steel blades. It has a 2-cycle Wisconsin Robin
engine and a carburetor the size of an ice cube.

For decades, I've been mixing my 2-cycle fuel in a pint- or
quart-sized soda bottle. It was sitting around too long if I mixed
a gallon.

Great idea... thanks .. I will try that... chain saw fuel going bad
has always been a prob since they they started this alcohol additive
to gasoline.

I don't remember ever having a leak, but I keep my little bottle
outdoors, just in case.