I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm
looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.
The only repair it's needed was an igniter.

Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric
service in a few weeks.

I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor
to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add
central air.

I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...
but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.


What is a good, reliable brand?

On 6/19/2014 2:46 PM, philo wrote:
I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm
looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.
The only repair it's needed was an igniter.

Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric
service in a few weeks.

I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor
to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add
central air.

I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...
but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.


What is a good, reliable brand?

Several...we put in a Carrier in roughly same size total but two-story
2-units a couple of years ago. Overall was about $8k iirc, but one
system would be about 2/3rds that (the upper floor unit is quite a bit
smaller than the main floor one). If you've got 80% now, then would
presume won't need to do the noncondensing exhaust--this was a much
older natural draft unit vented thru the old chimney so that was
required labor plus the labor for re-doing the refrig lines (newer HE
units need larger lines than the old did) was fairly involved coming
thru the second floor again all the way to the basement in this house so
depending on the construction might be a little better. Then again, I'd
guess labor rates in WI are higher than SW KS...

--

On 06/19/2014 03:46 PM, dpb wrote:


What is a good, reliable brand?

Several...we put in a Carrier in roughly same size total but two-story
2-units a couple of years ago. Overall was about $8k iirc, but one
system would be about 2/3rds that (the upper floor unit is quite a bit
smaller than the main floor one). If you've got 80% now, then would
presume won't need to do the noncondensing exhaust--this was a much
older natural draft unit vented thru the old chimney so that was
required labor plus the labor for re-doing the refrig lines (newer HE
units need larger lines than the old did) was fairly involved coming
thru the second floor again all the way to the basement in this house so
depending on the construction might be a little better. Then again, I'd
guess labor rates in WI are higher than SW KS...



Thank you.

The unit I have now is a Trane and though I've had no problems other
than the igniter, now with the ability to search the web, I see it was
rated pretty low.

I guess I had better set aside at least $5K...
so I will more than likely have it done next year.
One major project a year is the most I usually do.
Last year, new windows, this year new electric service.
If I get the new furnace next year than I can take a break from major
projects for a while and set aside money for a new roof.
(Unless the wife convinces me to move to Arizona.)

I do not really want to call for an estimate until I am actually ready
to get the work done.


I'll check to see who does Carrier in my area.

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 3:46:31 PM UTC-4, philo* wrote:
I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm

looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.

The only repair it's needed was an igniter.



Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric

service in a few weeks.



I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor

to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add

central air.



The existing ducting was designed for heating only. If you're lucky,
it may be adequate for AC too, which it is in many cases. Could be a
problem though if for example it's 2 stories, with the furnace in
basement. Heat rises, so old system might not have enough air capacity
to get enough cold air upstairs to cool properly. Sometimes some simple
things, like adding another return or two upstairs can fix that.

The quotes that were reasonable here in NJ to do a replacement
of furnace and existing AC from a couple years ago were in the
6500 - 7500 range. That was before rebates, tax credits, etc. I got
some that were a lot higher too. System was 120K BTU 94%, 2 stage furnace,
5 ton 14 SEER AC.

If you have a gas WH on the existing chimney, then you should have
a liner installed. Make sure that's part of the quote.



I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...

but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.





What is a good, reliable brand?

I went with Rheem. Rheem is the same company that makes Ruud.
The old system was Ruud, 25 years old, only thing I ever had
a problem with is I had to put a hard-start kit on the compressor
because it was blowing fuses. I think that cost me $100 or so
and it worked for another 15 years. Had the Rheem 3 years and
very happy with it. 94% furnace, variable speed blower, 14 SEER
AC. I was a little skeptical about the ECM blower, they are
electronic and more costly to replace. But I like it. When the
old system came on, you knew it. The new one, the blower ramps
slowly and it's much quieter, less noticeable.

Another thing to consider is where you want the AC compressor.
Just before install, it suddenly dawned on me that the old one
was in the wrong place. It was right between the living room
and den, in the backyard. I realized that with just a little more
lineset, it could go on the end of the house, where it's totally
out of the way and by a bathroom. It was an easy move because
it was also right near the electric panel.

I would definitely get a two stage furnace too. Little difference
in price. With two stage, it fires at about 65% of capacity most
of the time, ie when maintaining the temperature. If the temp
has been set back, you increase it, etc, then it fires at full output.
It's also good for days when only a little heat is needed as it
runs a bit longer, giving time for the temp to even out.

I didn't get a 2 stage AC, but that's worth considering too. It
uses the lower output on mild days, allowing it to run longer and
get more of the humidity out. When you have only one output, it can
cool the house off before getting as much of the humidity out as
you might want. I finally opted against it, because it was a big
jump in price and for me it hasn't been much of an issue.

Make sure with the 2 stage furnace that the contract calls for a
2 stage thermostat. With that, the thermostat that knows what the
target temp and the actual temp are makes the decision on which output
level to call for. These furnaces can also work with a dumb single
stage furnace. In that case, the furnace makes the decision. It
starts at low stage and if after like 8 mins, it's still running,
then it goes to high. So, if you have the house at 60 and want
to get it to 70, you're wasting 8 mins running on low, where with
a 2 stage thermostat it would be running at high from the first
minute.

Also, consider what type of filtering system you want. I think it
comes down to two choices, a high MERV filter that is like 5 inches
thick or an electronic. I chose the MERV. Without an external filter
in the contract, you'll wind up with just one of the 1" crap ones
and no easy way to upgrade it.

Keep in mind that I'd rather have a good installer with the least
expensive eqpt than a crappy installer with the best eqpt. Actually,
when I lookd few years ago at CR, there was very little difference
in the service rates among brands. Some have better warranties and
you should check out that too.

On Thu, 19 Jun 2014 14:46:31 -0500, philo* wrote:

I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm
looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.
The only repair it's needed was an igniter.

Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric
service in a few weeks.

I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor
to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add
central air.

I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...
but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.


What is a good, reliable brand?

Shlitz.

On 6/19/2014 3:46 PM, philo wrote:
I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm
looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.
The only repair it's needed was an igniter.

Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric
service in a few weeks.

I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor
to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add
central air.

I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...
but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.


What is a good, reliable brand?

Between three and four grand.
Goodman. Simple, reliable, inexpensive.

You may also ask a couple more questions.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 6:27:22 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/19/2014 3:46 PM, philo wrote:

I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm

looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.

The only repair it's needed was an igniter.



Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric

service in a few weeks.



I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor

to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add

central air.



I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...

but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.





What is a good, reliable brand?



Between three and four grand.

Goodman. Simple, reliable, inexpensive.



You may also ask a couple more questions.



I don't see how you could get it done for $3K. Just the eqpt/materials is
in the $2500 range for basic, minimal system. Would you put it in for
$3K?

philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 03:46 PM, dpb wrote:


What is a good, reliable brand?

Several...we put in a Carrier in roughly same size total but two-story
2-units a couple of years ago. Overall was about $8k iirc, but one
system would be about 2/3rds that (the upper floor unit is quite a bit
smaller than the main floor one). If you've got 80% now, then would
presume won't need to do the noncondensing exhaust--this was a much
older natural draft unit vented thru the old chimney so that was
required labor plus the labor for re-doing the refrig lines (newer HE
units need larger lines than the old did) was fairly involved coming
thru the second floor again all the way to the basement in this house so
depending on the construction might be a little better. Then again, I'd
guess labor rates in WI are higher than SW KS...



Thank you.

The unit I have now is a Trane and though I've had no problems other
than the igniter, now with the ability to search the web, I see it was
rated pretty low.

I guess I had better set aside at least $5K...
so I will more than likely have it done next year.
One major project a year is the most I usually do.
Last year, new windows, this year new electric service.
If I get the new furnace next year than I can take a break from major
projects for a while and set aside money for a new roof.
(Unless the wife convinces me to move to Arizona.)

I do not really want to call for an estimate until I am actually ready
to get the work done.


I'll check to see who does Carrier in my area.

Hi,
Our Carrier performance series package installed 7 years ago has been
trouble free so far. Doesn't even need a recharge for the a/c unit when
spring check up was done. 3.5 ton/100K BTU 2 stage at little over 7K
CAD. Done bya CArrier authorized outfit with good well trained techs.
with 10 year P&L warranty. House is ~2600 sq. ft. 2 story, R2000 spec'd
(not counting fully finished basement)

On 06/19/2014 04:22 PM, trader_4 wrote:
Odesigned for heating only. If you're lucky,
it may be adequate for AC too, which it is in many cases. Could be a
problem though if for example it's 2 stories, with the furnace in
basement. Heat rises, so old system might not have enough air capacity
to get enough cold air upstairs to cool properly. Sometimes some simple
things, like adding another return or two upstairs can fix that.

Good point. My wife's studio has no air vent at all, so I installed a
230v baseboard heater. Adding a vent would probably be expensive.
OTOH: To run a large electric heater is also expensive. I better set
aside even more moeny.


The quotes that were reasonable here in NJ to do a replacement
of furnace and existing AC from a couple years ago were in the
6500 - 7500 range. That was before rebates, tax credits, etc. I got
some that were a lot higher too. System was 120K BTU 94%, 2 stage furnace,
5 ton 14 SEER AC.

If you have a gas WH on the existing chimney, then you should have
a liner installed. Make sure that's part of the quote.

Yep, I will need a liner too for the water heater...or else I'll have to
go to an electric water heater.



I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...

but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.





What is a good, reliable brand?

I went with Rheem. Rheem is the same company that makes Ruud.
The old system was Ruud, 25 years old, only thing I ever had
a problem with is I had to put a hard-start kit on the compressor
because it was blowing fuses. I think that cost me $100 or so
and it worked for another 15 years. Had the Rheem 3 years and
very happy with it. 94% furnace, variable speed blower, 14 SEER
AC. I was a little skeptical about the ECM blower, they are
electronic and more costly to replace. But I like it. When the
old system came on, you knew it. The new one, the blower ramps
slowly and it's much quieter, less noticeable.

Another thing to consider is where you want the AC compressor.
Just before install, it suddenly dawned on me that the old one
was in the wrong place. It was right between the living room
and den, in the backyard. I realized that with just a little more
lineset, it could go on the end of the house, where it's totally
out of the way and by a bathroom. It was an easy move because
it was also right near the electric panel.

There is really only one place the compressor can go, and that's in the
back of the house. It will be a short run from the furnace and it will
not be in the way of anything.




snip

Also, consider what type of filtering system you want. I think it
comes down to two choices, a high MERV filter that is like 5 inches
thick or an electronic. I chose the MERV. Without an external filter
in the contract, you'll wind up with just one of the 1" crap ones
and no easy way to upgrade it.


I had an electrostatic filter and it worked well. It died though so I
stuck in a high quality 5" thick filter. For sure, when I get a new
furnace I'll want the best there is. My wife has mild allergies and this
house is very old so I want to keep the dust down as much as possible.


Keep in mind that I'd rather have a good installer with the least
expensive eqpt than a crappy installer with the best eqpt. Actually,
when I lookd few years ago at CR, there was very little difference
in the service rates among brands. Some have better warranties and
you should check out that too.


Thanks for your input

On 06/19/2014 05:27 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/19/2014 3:46 PM, philo wrote:
I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm
looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.
The only repair it's needed was an igniter.

Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric
service in a few weeks.

I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor
to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add
central air.

I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...
but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.


What is a good, reliable brand?

Between three and four grand.
Goodman. Simple, reliable, inexpensive.

You may also ask a couple more questions.




I never even heard of Goodman...thanks

On 06/19/2014 05:39 PM, trader_4 wrote:

You may also ask a couple more questions.



I don't see how you could get it done for $3K. Just the eqpt/materials is
in the $2500 range for basic, minimal system. Would you put it in for
$3K?




To be on the safe side, looks like I better put away $6K

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 6:56:33 PM UTC-4, philo* wrote:
On 06/19/2014 04:22 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Odesigned for heating only. If you're lucky,

it may be adequate for AC too, which it is in many cases. Could be a

problem though if for example it's 2 stories, with the furnace in

basement. Heat rises, so old system might not have enough air capacity

to get enough cold air upstairs to cool properly. Sometimes some simple

things, like adding another return or two upstairs can fix that.



Good point. My wife's studio has no air vent at all, so I installed a

230v baseboard heater. Adding a vent would probably be expensive.

Doh! That's the kind of thing where problems start. You can look at
the logistics, possible routes to get an idea of what's possible.
Sometimes you get lucky, through a corner of a closet for example.

Another option is a minisplit for a room or two, if ducting is impossible
or too costly. But those aren't cheap either, figure $3000.



OTOH: To run a large electric heater is also expensive. I better set

aside even more moeny.





The quotes that were reasonable here in NJ to do a replacement

of furnace and existing AC from a couple years ago were in the

6500 - 7500 range. That was before rebates, tax credits, etc. I got

some that were a lot higher too. System was 120K BTU 94%, 2 stage furnace,

5 ton 14 SEER AC.



If you have a gas WH on the existing chimney, then you should have

a liner installed. Make sure that's part of the quote.



Yep, I will need a liner too for the water heater...or else I'll have to

go to an electric water heater.


Gss direct vent would be first choice. When I did my furnace, I figured my
WH could have 10 years left, so I went with a liner. I think it cost $150
or so.










I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...



but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.











What is a good, reliable brand?



I went with Rheem. Rheem is the same company that makes Ruud.

The old system was Ruud, 25 years old, only thing I ever had

a problem with is I had to put a hard-start kit on the compressor

because it was blowing fuses. I think that cost me $100 or so

and it worked for another 15 years. Had the Rheem 3 years and

very happy with it. 94% furnace, variable speed blower, 14 SEER

AC. I was a little skeptical about the ECM blower, they are

electronic and more costly to replace. But I like it. When the

old system came on, you knew it. The new one, the blower ramps

slowly and it's much quieter, less noticeable.



Another thing to consider is where you want the AC compressor.

Just before install, it suddenly dawned on me that the old one

was in the wrong place. It was right between the living room

and den, in the backyard. I realized that with just a little more

lineset, it could go on the end of the house, where it's totally

out of the way and by a bathroom. It was an easy move because

it was also right near the electric panel.



There is really only one place the compressor can go, and that's in the

back of the house. It will be a short run from the furnace and it will

not be in the way of anything.


The good news is the new ones are a lot quieter than the ones
from 25 years ago. I was very pleased with the noise reduction.
In my case, the old one was outside the den and you could hear it
buzzing away loudly while watching TV. The new one is much quieter
and I relocated it around the other side of the house, past the den,
so it's beside a bathroom. In the den you can barely hear it at all now.
Some of the higher price units justify that by lower noise levels.
But my basic Rheem is plenty quiet for me. Unless it's going somewhere
where noise is an especial consideration, I wouldn't pay more for one
that is quieter.












snip



Also, consider what type of filtering system you want. I think it

comes down to two choices, a high MERV filter that is like 5 inches

thick or an electronic. I chose the MERV. Without an external filter

in the contract, you'll wind up with just one of the 1" crap ones

and no easy way to upgrade it.





I had an electrostatic filter and it worked well. It died though so I

stuck in a high quality 5" thick filter. For sure, when I get a new

furnace I'll want the best there is. My wife has mild allergies and this

house is very old so I want to keep the dust down as much as possible.


They make media based ones that use a filter about 5" thick. It can
go beside or under the furnace, depending on how the duct work is done.
The bad part is the filters cost about $45 to replace. But they seem
to last a long time. I check mine and they last longer than a year.







Keep in mind that I'd rather have a good installer with the least

expensive eqpt than a crappy installer with the best eqpt. Actually,

when I lookd few years ago at CR, there was very little difference

in the service rates among brands. Some have better warranties and

you should check out that too.





Thanks for your input



Anytime.

On 6/19/2014 6:58 PM, philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 05:27 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
What is a good, reliable brand?

Between three and four grand.
Goodman. Simple, reliable, inexpensive.

You may also ask a couple more questions.




I never even heard of Goodman...thanks

I've worked on them a couple times. Appears to
be reasonable quality. Stock, ordinary parts,
not spcialized proprietary like Trane.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 06/19/2014 06:12 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 6:56:33 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 04:22 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Odesigned for heating only. If you're lucky,

it may be adequate for AC too, which it is in many cases. Could be a

problem though if for example it's 2 stories, with the furnace in

basement. Heat rises, so old system might not have enough air capacity

to get enough cold air upstairs to cool properly. Sometimes some simple

things, like adding another return or two upstairs can fix that.



Good point. My wife's studio has no air vent at all, so I installed a

230v baseboard heater. Adding a vent would probably be expensive.

Doh! That's the kind of thing where problems start. You can look at
the logistics, possible routes to get an idea of what's possible.
Sometimes you get lucky, through a corner of a closet for example.

Another option is a minisplit for a room or two, if ducting is impossible
or too costly. But those aren't cheap either, figure $3000.



snip


Here is an idea:

If I get a high efficiency furnace it will not require a chimney...and
if I go with an electric water heater my chimney will not be used at all.

I wonder if the ducts could then be run up the unused chimney?
The room with no vents is directly adjoining the chimney.

On 06/19/2014 08:02 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/19/2014 6:58 PM, philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 05:27 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
What is a good, reliable brand?

Between three and four grand.
Goodman. Simple, reliable, inexpensive.

You may also ask a couple more questions.




I never even heard of Goodman...thanks

I've worked on them a couple times. Appears to
be reasonable quality. Stock, ordinary parts,
not spcialized proprietary like Trane.




Will look into it
thanks

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 11:06:17 PM UTC-4, philo* wrote:
On 06/19/2014 06:12 PM, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 6:56:33 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:

On 06/19/2014 04:22 PM, trader_4 wrote:



Odesigned for heating only. If you're lucky,



it may be adequate for AC too, which it is in many cases. Could be a



problem though if for example it's 2 stories, with the furnace in



basement. Heat rises, so old system might not have enough air capacity



to get enough cold air upstairs to cool properly. Sometimes some simple



things, like adding another return or two upstairs can fix that.







Good point. My wife's studio has no air vent at all, so I installed a



230v baseboard heater. Adding a vent would probably be expensive.



Doh! That's the kind of thing where problems start. You can look at

the logistics, possible routes to get an idea of what's possible.

Sometimes you get lucky, through a corner of a closet for example.



Another option is a minisplit for a room or two, if ducting is impossible

or too costly. But those aren't cheap either, figure $3000.







snip





Here is an idea:



If I get a high efficiency furnace it will not require a chimney...and

if I go with an electric water heater my chimney will not be used at all.



I wonder if the ducts could then be run up the unused chimney?

The room with no vents is directly adjoining the chimney.

You could run something up there. Depends on the size
of the chimney and the room. Small room could do with
one register. Larger should have two. A return would
be good too. Probably not much room in a chimney sized
for a furnace/WH.

philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 05:27 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/19/2014 3:46 PM, philo wrote:
I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm
looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.
The only repair it's needed was an igniter.

Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric
service in a few weeks.

I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor
to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add
central air.

I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...
but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.


What is a good, reliable brand?

Between three and four grand.
Goodman. Simple, reliable, inexpensive.

You may also ask a couple more questions.




I never even heard of Goodman...thanks

About 15 years ago I had janitrol furnace installed 100k btu, never had any
problems, in the 5 years I had the house. In this house, 8 years ago, had
goodman 70 k btu, dual stage, and 2.5 ton air, AND gas line run, for just
over $5k. No problems.

You can look up prices on line for goodman equip. Figure a minimum of
double that for total minimum reasonable cost.

Greg

On 06/19/2014 11:38 PM, trader_4 wrote:




If I get a high efficiency furnace it will not require a chimney...and

if I go with an electric water heater my chimney will not be used at all.



I wonder if the ducts could then be run up the unused chimney?

The room with no vents is directly adjoining the chimney.

You could run something up there. Depends on the size
of the chimney and the room. Small room could do with
one register. Larger should have two. A return would
be good too. Probably not much room in a chimney sized
for a furnace/WH.




The chimney is about 16" square (OD) , so there might be enough room for
ductwork but the room is fairly large. Guess I will need to contact an
HVAC person to see if it's practical.

On 06/19/2014 11:51 PM, gregz wrote:




I never even heard of Goodman...thanks

About 15 years ago I had janitrol furnace installed 100k btu, never had any
problems, in the 5 years I had the house. In this house, 8 years ago, had
goodman 70 k btu, dual stage, and 2.5 ton air, AND gas line run, for just
over $5k. No problems.

You can look up prices on line for goodman equip. Figure a minimum of
double that for total minimum reasonable cost.

Greg




Well, I better talk to my agent and see when I can take money out of my
retirement fund. I'll be 65 in July and will need to find out exactly
when my money will be available.

I never even heard of Goodman...thanks

a very good friend who taught HVAC and was in construction highly recommends goodman

they use off the shelf parts rather than special OEM only parts.

my goodman installed was half the price of the name brands and has been highly dependable

On 06/20/2014 06:44 AM, bob haller wrote:

I never even heard of Goodman...thanks

a very good friend who taught HVAC and was in construction highly recommends goodman

they use off the shelf parts rather than special OEM only parts.

my goodman installed was half the price of the name brands and has been highly dependable




Ok, I will definitely check them out.


Also thinking that considering that most of the summers are so mild that
I don't even put in a window A/C ...to maybe just skip the central air.
Even during the worst summers, the window unit does not get used more
than ten times.

On 6/19/2014 6:39 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 6:27:22 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/19/2014 3:46 PM, philo wrote:
I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor
to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add
central air.

Between three and four grand.

Goodman. Simple, reliable, inexpensive.



I don't see how you could get it done for $3K. Just the eqpt/materials is
in the $2500 range for basic, minimal system. Would you put it in for
$3K?


I worked as an installer between the years 2000
and 2006. I was the helper, not the big man, so
I didn't really do much with pricing the job.
Please understand if my mental cash register is
out of date.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 6/19/2014 6:59 PM, philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 05:39 PM, trader_4 wrote:
I don't see how you could get it done for $3K. Just the
eqpt/materials is
in the $2500 range for basic, minimal system. Would you put it in for
$3K?




To be on the safe side, looks like I better put away $6K

I'd call for several quotes, and decide then.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 06/19/2014 03:46 PM, philo wrote:
I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.
The only repair it's needed was an igniter.

Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric service in a few weeks.

I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add central air.

I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...
but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.


What is a good, reliable brand?


I had a 60,000 BTU Goodman forced air furnace and 2-1/2 ton AC system installed in 2010. Both were the top high-efficiency models.
IIRC, the check I wrote was for $8,600.


And in all fairness to the Goodman dealer, $250 of that was for the city mechanical inspection / cash-grab.
The inspector (I use that term loosely) walked in, glanced at the furnace from 25' away, copied the model number from the bill of sale and left. $250 well spent.

On 06/21/2014 06:07 AM, James wrote:
e brand?


I had a 60,000 BTU Goodman forced air furnace and 2-1/2 ton AC system
installed in 2010. Both were the top high-efficiency models.
IIRC, the check I wrote was for $8,600.


And in all fairness to the Goodman dealer, $250 of that was for the city
mechanical inspection / cash-grab.
The inspector (I use that term loosely) walked in, glanced at the
furnace from 25' away, copied the model number from the bill of sale and
left. $250 well spent.



When I got married for the first time it was required to get a doctor's
exam for VD. He just asked me if I had anything. I said "no" and he
wrote a statement saying I was OK. I was charged $25 I think.


Anyway quite a few here have recommended Goodman and I like the idea of
it using standard parts. I do the repairs myself and though it's usually
not a problem getting proprietary parts, they are typically very expensive.

"philo " wrote in message
...
And in all fairness to the Goodman dealer, $250 of that was for the
city
mechanical inspection / cash-grab.
The inspector (I use that term loosely) walked in, glanced at the
furnace from 25' away, copied the model number from the bill of sale and
left. $250 well spent.



When I got married for the first time it was required to get a doctor's
exam for VD. He just asked me if I had anything. I said "no" and he wrote
a statement saying I was OK. I was charged $25 I think.



Just like the car inspectors. One gave me a sticker and scraper and told me
to scrape off the old one and put on the new one while he filled out the
paper work. I guess that he might have seen the car from inside his shop if
he looked out his window

Another place gave my 5 year old car a very good going over and said it
would not pass as it was missing the cytalytic converter. I told him I
bought the car new and never had it worked on except for the oil changes and
if it was missing anything , me and the dealer were going to have a talk.
Another mechanic walked up and said it was under the hood and not under the
car on that model..

On 6/21/2014 11:25 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:


Just like the car inspectors. One gave me a sticker and scraper and told me
to scrape off the old one and put on the new one while he filled out the
paper work. I guess that he might have seen the car from inside his shop if
he looked out his window

Wow, the guy I used to go to did that himself after a very thourough
inspection. He'd put his foot on the brake pedal while scraping off the
old sticker.

When I lived in PA, the inspections varied. They shyster that tried to
sell you ball joints and brakes that were not needed and maybe not even
done, the other end that did nothing, and a few that were actually legit.

We had three cars in the family with questionable items. I found a shop
that passed them all, but they all needed a headlight adjustment. It
was only a couple of bucks so you paid it rather that have the
suspension checked or other expensive items. Another shop would sell
you water pump lubricant or some other gimmick that was much cheaper
than actual repairs needed if given a proper inspection.

On 06/21/2014 05:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/19/2014 6:59 PM, philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 05:39 PM, trader_4 wrote:
I don't see how you could get it done for $3K. Just the
eqpt/materials is
in the $2500 range for basic, minimal system. Would you put it in for
$3K?




To be on the safe side, looks like I better put away $6K

I'd call for several quotes, and decide then.




Yes, for a big dollar item like this, I will

On 6/21/2014 7:33 PM, philo wrote:
On 06/21/2014 05:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
To be on the safe side, looks like I better put away $6K
I'd call for several quotes, and decide then.




Yes, for a big dollar item like this, I will

You can call my boss in 2006, and he and I can
come out and put in furnace and central AC for
about three grand, in 2006 dollars.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sat, 21 Jun 2014 07:07:43 -0400, James wrote:

On 06/19/2014 03:46 PM, philo wrote:
I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.
The only repair it's needed was an igniter.

Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric service in a few weeks.

I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add central air.

I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...
but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.


What is a good, reliable brand?


I had a 60,000 BTU Goodman forced air furnace and 2-1/2 ton AC system installed in 2010. Both were the top high-efficiency models.
IIRC, the check I wrote was for $8,600.


And in all fairness to the Goodman dealer, $250 of that was for the city mechanical inspection / cash-grab.
The inspector (I use that term loosely) walked in, glanced at the furnace from 25' away, copied the model number from the bill of sale and left. $250 well spent.
My "guestimate" for a simple replacement around here is about 8Gs

philo wrote:
On 06/19/2014 05:27 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/19/2014 3:46 PM, philo wrote:
I have a 21 year old 80,000 BTU 80% efficiency gas furnace than I'm
looking to replace this year or possibly next. House is 1900 sq ft.
The only repair it's needed was an igniter.

Present ductwork and insulation is fine. I am getting new electric
service in a few weeks.

I am looking for a ballpark figure on what I should expect a contractor
to charge to replace the unit with a high-efficiency type...plus add
central air.

I live in Milwaukee and it only occasionally gets up to 100 F...
but we can get up to a week of sold 90+ degree weather.


What is a good, reliable brand?

Between three and four grand.
Goodman. Simple, reliable, inexpensive.

You may also ask a couple more questions.




I never even heard of Goodman...thanks
Hi,
Goodman is like Timex watch, known for value if installed properly.
The key is good installation.

James wrote:
On 06/19/2014 03:46 PM, philo wrote:

I had a 60,000 BTU Goodman forced air furnace and 2-1/2 ton AC system
installed in 2010. Both were the top high-efficiency models.
IIRC, the check I wrote was for $8,600.


And in all fairness to the Goodman dealer, $250 of that was for the city
mechanical inspection / cash-grab.
The inspector (I use that term loosely) walked in, glanced at the
furnace from 25' away, copied the model number from the bill of sale and
left. $250 well spent.
Hmmm,
For that money he did not even slapped an inspection sticker on the
furnace, LOL? Ours did.