We just got done with a very cold winter.

On some of the coldest days there was a lot of condensation in the house
right near the ceiling adjacent to the chimney.

I have a standard gas furnace that's about 22 years old and there is NO
liner in the chimney. Various chimney repair companies have told me I
should get a liner installed to avoid condensation.


I was about to do so then realized that I'll probably need a new furnace
within the next few years anyway and now might be the time to not only
get a high efficiency furnace but to get central air instead.


The 100 amp service in my 116 year old house is maxed out so I have
hired a contractor to upgrade the service to 200 amps.


Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that chimney
which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get condensation
on cold winter days?

I guess it all depends on why that condensation was forming. If it's a masonary chimney, then my guess would be that the cause of the condensation has nothing to do with the amount of flue gas rising up through the chimney, but the fact that masonary is a lousy insulator. Basically, the ceiling around the chimney was cold because the chimney was cold, and that's why the condensation formed where it did.

philo wrote:
We just got done with a very cold winter.

On some of the coldest days there was a lot of condensation in the
house right near the ceiling adjacent to the chimney.

I have a standard gas furnace that's about 22 years old and there is
NO liner in the chimney. Various chimney repair companies have told
me I should get a liner installed to avoid condensation.


I was about to do so then realized that I'll probably need a new
furnace within the next few years anyway and now might be the time to
not only get a high efficiency furnace but to get central air instead.


The 100 amp service in my 116 year old house is maxed out so I have
hired a contractor to upgrade the service to 200 amps.


Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that
chimney which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get
condensation on cold winter days?

I can't say for dure about the condensation, but the chimney will likely not
operate correctly with just the gas water heater. When I converted to a
condensing gas furnace with PVC pipe out the wall, I, by code, had to install 4"
"B" vent in the chimney for the water heater. The chimney is designed for the
larger heat of the gas furnace. I would imagine, condensation might be one of
the problems with only the water heater especially if it is already a problem in
cold weather.

"Bob F" wrote:
philo wrote:
We just got done with a very cold winter.

On some of the coldest days there was a lot of condensation in the
house right near the ceiling adjacent to the chimney.

I have a standard gas furnace that's about 22 years old and there is
NO liner in the chimney. Various chimney repair companies have told
me I should get a liner installed to avoid condensation.


I was about to do so then realized that I'll probably need a new
furnace within the next few years anyway and now might be the time to
not only get a high efficiency furnace but to get central air instead.


The 100 amp service in my 116 year old house is maxed out so I have
hired a contractor to upgrade the service to 200 amps.


Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that
chimney which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get
condensation on cold winter days?

I can't say for dure about the condensation, but the chimney will likely not
operate correctly with just the gas water heater. When I converted to a
condensing gas furnace with PVC pipe out the wall, I, by code, had to install 4"
"B" vent in the chimney for the water heater. The chimney is designed for the
larger heat of the gas furnace. I would imagine, condensation might be one of
the problems with only the water heater especially if it is already a problem in
cold weather.

They tapped into the chimey on my gas water heater. It has a 6 inch ceramic
liner. Seems ok, but I still need to install top hat. On the other house, I
got same condensation problems. No liner, and the hole is over 10 inches.
It also feeds to the older gas furnace. I don't intend to fix that
situation, but I still need a top cover.
On my old house, I installed a galvanized pipe down through the asbestos
chiney. I figured it is best to narrow the system. It was easy as the roof
was not steep, and had easy access, so I did it myself.


Greg

On 06/08/2014 11:37 PM, Bob F wrote:
philo wrote:
We just got done with a very cold winter.

On some of the coldest days there was a lot of condensation in the
house right near the ceiling adjacent to the chimney.

I have a standard gas furnace that's about 22 years old and there is
NO liner in the chimney. Various chimney repair companies have told
me I should get a liner installed to avoid condensation.


I was about to do so then realized that I'll probably need a new
furnace within the next few years anyway and now might be the time to
not only get a high efficiency furnace but to get central air instead.


The 100 amp service in my 116 year old house is maxed out so I have
hired a contractor to upgrade the service to 200 amps.


Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that
chimney which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get
condensation on cold winter days?

I can't say for dure about the condensation, but the chimney will likely not
operate correctly with just the gas water heater. When I converted to a
condensing gas furnace with PVC pipe out the wall, I, by code, had to install 4"
"B" vent in the chimney for the water heater. The chimney is designed for the
larger heat of the gas furnace. I would imagine, condensation might be one of
the problems with only the water heater especially if it is already a problem in
cold weather.




I've heard that said but to me it did not make sense because the furnace
is of course not used in the summer and even in the winter the furnace
and the hot water heater would rarely be on at the same time.

On 06/08/2014 10:06 PM, nestork wrote:

'philo*[_2_ Wrote:
;3246116']
Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that chimney

which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get condensation

on cold winter days?

I guess it all depends on why that condensation was forming. If it's a
masonary chimney, then my guess would be that the cause of the
condensation has nothing to do with the amount of flue gas rising up
through the chimney, but the fact that masonary is a lousy insulator.
Basically, the ceiling around the chimney was cold because the chimney
was cold, and that's why the condensation formed where it did.





Yep , it's a masonry chimney but the condensation was not always there.
I've only had it since my present furnace had been put in in 1993...and
we've had so many mild winters that most of the time there was no problem.

Though it's not a high-efficiency type it's certainly more efficient
that the previous one that had been in there.


At any rate...it looks like I will need to do a better job of insulating
that area...would it just be as simple as putting fiber glass insulation
around the portion of the chimney that's in the attic?

On 06/09/2014 12:58 AM, gregz wrote:
"Bob F" wrote:
philo wrote:
We just got done with a very cold winter.

On some of the coldest days there was a lot of condensation in the
house right near the ceiling adjacent to the chimney.

I have a standard gas furnace that's about 22 years old and there is
NO liner in the chimney. Various chimney repair companies have told
me I should get a liner installed to avoid condensation.


I was about to do so then realized that I'll probably need a new
furnace within the next few years anyway and now might be the time to
not only get a high efficiency furnace but to get central air instead.


The 100 amp service in my 116 year old house is maxed out so I have
hired a contractor to upgrade the service to 200 amps.


Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that
chimney which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get
condensation on cold winter days?

I can't say for dure about the condensation, but the chimney will likely not
operate correctly with just the gas water heater. When I converted to a
condensing gas furnace with PVC pipe out the wall, I, by code, had to install 4"
"B" vent in the chimney for the water heater. The chimney is designed for the
larger heat of the gas furnace. I would imagine, condensation might be one of
the problems with only the water heater especially if it is already a problem in
cold weather.

They tapped into the chimey on my gas water heater. It has a 6 inch ceramic
liner. Seems ok, but I still need to install top hat. On the other house, I
got same condensation problems. No liner, and the hole is over 10 inches.
It also feeds to the older gas furnace. I don't intend to fix that
situation, but I still need a top cover.
On my old house, I installed a galvanized pipe down through the asbestos
chiney. I figured it is best to narrow the system. It was easy as the roof
was not steep, and had easy access, so I did it myself.


Greg



This is not a job I'm consider doing myself. Even when I was younger,
the roof here is too steep for me to ever have considered going up on.

I guess when I get the new furnace they will know how best to how to
deal with the water heater. If it does need it's own exhaust pipe if
it's not too expensive I'll of course get it done...otherwise I'll just
switch to an electric water heater.

On 6/9/2014 7:57 AM, philo wrote:
On 06/09/2014 12:58 AM, gregz wrote:
"Bob F" wrote:
philo wrote:
We just got done with a very cold winter.

On some of the coldest days there was a lot of condensation in the
house right near the ceiling adjacent to the chimney.

I have a standard gas furnace that's about 22 years old and there is
NO liner in the chimney. Various chimney repair companies have told
me I should get a liner installed to avoid condensation.


I was about to do so then realized that I'll probably need a new
furnace within the next few years anyway and now might be the time to
not only get a high efficiency furnace but to get central air instead.


The 100 amp service in my 116 year old house is maxed out so I have
hired a contractor to upgrade the service to 200 amps.


Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that
chimney which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get
condensation on cold winter days?

I can't say for dure about the condensation, but the chimney will
likely not
operate correctly with just the gas water heater. When I converted to a
condensing gas furnace with PVC pipe out the wall, I, by code, had to
install 4"
"B" vent in the chimney for the water heater. The chimney is designed
for the
larger heat of the gas furnace. I would imagine, condensation might
be one of
the problems with only the water heater especially if it is already a
problem in
cold weather.

They tapped into the chimey on my gas water heater. It has a 6 inch
ceramic
liner. Seems ok, but I still need to install top hat. On the other
house, I
got same condensation problems. No liner, and the hole is over 10 inches.
It also feeds to the older gas furnace. I don't intend to fix that
situation, but I still need a top cover.
On my old house, I installed a galvanized pipe down through the asbestos
chiney. I figured it is best to narrow the system. It was easy as the
roof
was not steep, and had easy access, so I did it myself.


Greg



This is not a job I'm consider doing myself. Even when I was younger,
the roof here is too steep for me to ever have considered going up on.

I guess when I get the new furnace they will know how best to how to
deal with the water heater. If it does need it's own exhaust pipe if
it's not too expensive I'll of course get it done...otherwise I'll just
switch to an electric water heater.
Or, use a direct vent gas water heater. They are more expensive than
the regular ones, but it might be cheaper than the alternatives. I have
one (LP) and my only complaint it that it is the noisiest water heater
I've ever heard. It's not only noisy in the basement, but it's noisy
outside where it vents.

On 06/09/2014 07:27 AM, Art Todesco wrote:
On 6/9/2014 7:57 AM, philo wrote:

snip


This is not a job I'm consider doing myself. Even when I was younger,
the roof here is too steep for me to ever have considered going up on.

I guess when I get the new furnace they will know how best to how to
deal with the water heater. If it does need it's own exhaust pipe if
it's not too expensive I'll of course get it done...otherwise I'll just
switch to an electric water heater.
Or, use a direct vent gas water heater. They are more expensive than
the regular ones, but it might be cheaper than the alternatives. I have
one (LP) and my only complaint it that it is the noisiest water heater
I've ever heard. It's not only noisy in the basement, but it's noisy
outside where it vents.



My water heater is only 4 years old, it seems too new to replace.



Well, thus far I have only committed for the new 200 amp service.
That's something I needed anyway. When that gets done and I have
separate circuits in the kitchen I won't have to worry about having the
toaster and coffee maker on at the same time.

On Monday, June 9, 2014 7:41:56 AM UTC-4, philo* wrote:
On 06/08/2014 11:37 PM, Bob F wrote:

philo wrote:

We just got done with a very cold winter.



On some of the coldest days there was a lot of condensation in the

house right near the ceiling adjacent to the chimney.



I have a standard gas furnace that's about 22 years old and there is

NO liner in the chimney. Various chimney repair companies have told

me I should get a liner installed to avoid condensation.





I was about to do so then realized that I'll probably need a new

furnace within the next few years anyway and now might be the time to

not only get a high efficiency furnace but to get central air instead.





The 100 amp service in my 116 year old house is maxed out so I have

hired a contractor to upgrade the service to 200 amps.





Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that

chimney which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get

condensation on cold winter days?



I can't say for dure about the condensation, but the chimney will likely not

operate correctly with just the gas water heater. When I converted to a

condensing gas furnace with PVC pipe out the wall, I, by code, had to install 4"

"B" vent in the chimney for the water heater. The chimney is designed for the

larger heat of the gas furnace. I would imagine, condensation might be one of

the problems with only the water heater especially if it is already a problem in

cold weather.









I've heard that said but to me it did not make sense because the furnace

is of course not used in the summer and even in the winter the furnace

and the hot water heater would rarely be on at the same time.


Regarding the sizing, I've often wondered about that myself. The chimney
is supposed to be correctly sized to the appliances and not over-sized to
draft properly. But as you say, there are plenty of chimneys sized for
both a large furnace and a WH, where only the WH is on during summer.

When you go to a direct vent furnace, the chimney should have a liner
installed because when it's the only appliance on that larger chimney,
in winter in cold climates you will get condensation inside the chimney.
With the furnace, it kept the chimney warm in winter, the WH will not.
The condensate is acidic and over time, it will damage the mortar joints.

I've had HVAC companies tell me it's not necessary. When I asked, their
answer was, "We haven't had any problems....." Well, of course not. The
process takes decades and the homeowner won't know anything is wrong
until it's too late and the damage is done. ALuminum liners are $200,
and probably OK. SS are several times that. Installation is usually simple.

Regarding condensation inside the house, hard to say what's going on
without knowing more. 100% sure it's condensation, not some problem related
to snow, ice damming, etc? If it hasn't happened before, hard to figure
why it would be condensation, unless the house has too much humidity? Is
the spot situated where it would in fact get cold due to the chimney?

On 06/09/2014 08:12 AM, trader_4 wrote:



snip

Regarding the sizing, I've often wondered about that myself. The chimney
is supposed to be correctly sized to the appliances and not over-sized to
draft properly. But as you say, there are plenty of chimneys sized for
both a large furnace and a WH, where only the WH is on during summer.

When you go to a direct vent furnace, the chimney should have a liner
installed because when it's the only appliance on that larger chimney,
in winter in cold climates you will get condensation inside the chimney.
With the furnace, it kept the chimney warm in winter, the WH will not.
The condensate is acidic and over time, it will damage the mortar joints.

I've had HVAC companies tell me it's not necessary. When I asked, their
answer was, "We haven't had any problems....." Well, of course not. The
process takes decades and the homeowner won't know anything is wrong
until it's too late and the damage is done. ALuminum liners are $200,
and probably OK. SS are several times that. Installation is usually simple.

Regarding condensation inside the house, hard to say what's going on
without knowing more. 100% sure it's condensation, not some problem related
to snow, ice damming, etc? If it hasn't happened before, hard to figure
why it would be condensation, unless the house has too much humidity? Is
the spot situated where it would in fact get cold due to the chimney?




The problem has been there for at least 15 years or more, but since
we've had mostly mild winters I pretty much forgot about it until this
last one which has been very cold. The condensation only occurs if it
gets down to zero or so. The roof itself is OK. No leaks.


What had confused the issue was that the flashing around the chimney was
bad and I had it repaired. There had been condensation and after the
repair it seemed to be ok...but that was during a very mild winter so I
think the flashing was only one of several problems.

trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, June 9, 2014 7:41:56 AM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 06/08/2014 11:37 PM, Bob F wrote:

philo wrote:

We just got done with a very cold winter.



On some of the coldest days there was a lot of condensation in the

house right near the ceiling adjacent to the chimney.



I have a standard gas furnace that's about 22 years old and there is

NO liner in the chimney. Various chimney repair companies have told

me I should get a liner installed to avoid condensation.





I was about to do so then realized that I'll probably need a new

furnace within the next few years anyway and now might be the time to

not only get a high efficiency furnace but to get central air instead.





The 100 amp service in my 116 year old house is maxed out so I have

hired a contractor to upgrade the service to 200 amps.





Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that

chimney which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get

condensation on cold winter days?



I can't say for dure about the condensation, but the chimney will likely not

operate correctly with just the gas water heater. When I converted to a

condensing gas furnace with PVC pipe out the wall, I, by code, had to install 4"

"B" vent in the chimney for the water heater. The chimney is designed for the

larger heat of the gas furnace. I would imagine, condensation might be one of

the problems with only the water heater especially if it is already a problem in

cold weather.









I've heard that said but to me it did not make sense because the furnace

is of course not used in the summer and even in the winter the furnace

and the hot water heater would rarely be on at the same time.


Regarding the sizing, I've often wondered about that myself. The chimney
is supposed to be correctly sized to the appliances and not over-sized to
draft properly. But as you say, there are plenty of chimneys sized for
both a large furnace and a WH, where only the WH is on during summer.

When you go to a direct vent furnace, the chimney should have a liner
installed because when it's the only appliance on that larger chimney,
in winter in cold climates you will get condensation inside the chimney.
With the furnace, it kept the chimney warm in winter, the WH will not.
The condensate is acidic and over time, it will damage the mortar joints.
Hi,
Installing liner is code here. Inspector won't pass the install. if
liner is not installed.

On Monday, June 9, 2014 7:41:56 AM UTC-4, philo* wrote:
On 06/08/2014 11:37 PM, Bob F wrote:

philo wrote:

We just got done with a very cold winter.



On some of the coldest days there was a lot of condensation in the

house right near the ceiling adjacent to the chimney.



I have a standard gas furnace that's about 22 years old and there is

NO liner in the chimney. Various chimney repair companies have told

me I should get a liner installed to avoid condensation.





I was about to do so then realized that I'll probably need a new

furnace within the next few years anyway and now might be the time to

not only get a high efficiency furnace but to get central air instead.





The 100 amp service in my 116 year old house is maxed out so I have

hired a contractor to upgrade the service to 200 amps.





Now, my question: I still have a gas hot water heater using that

chimney which will be otherwise unused. Is it likely I'll still get

condensation on cold winter days?



I can't say for dure about the condensation, but the chimney will likely not

operate correctly with just the gas water heater. When I converted to a

condensing gas furnace with PVC pipe out the wall, I, by code, had to install 4"

"B" vent in the chimney for the water heater. The chimney is designed for the

larger heat of the gas furnace. I would imagine, condensation might be one of

the problems with only the water heater especially if it is already a problem in

cold weather.









I've heard that said but to me it did not make sense because the furnace

is of course not used in the summer and even in the winter the furnace

and the hot water heater would rarely be on at the same time.

But in the summer the temps are higher so the hw can keep the chimney warm.

the newer furnace installed 15 years ago was no doubt more efficent and had lower flue temps.

around here since at least 1950 homes had 2 flues, one larger one for furnace and a smaller one for water heater...

I would get a high efficency direcet vent furnace and if necessary istall a flue liner or get a new direct vent water heater

philo wrote:
Regarding condensation inside the house, hard to say what's going on
without knowing more. 100% sure it's condensation, not some problem
related to snow, ice damming, etc? If it hasn't happened before,
hard to figure why it would be condensation, unless the house has too much
humidity? Is the spot situated where it would in fact get cold due
to the chimney?



The problem has been there for at least 15 years or more, but since
we've had mostly mild winters I pretty much forgot about it until this
last one which has been very cold. The condensation only occurs if it
gets down to zero or so. The roof itself is OK. No leaks.

What is the temp of the surface when you get the condensation? It could just be
cold air cools the chimney so much that moist house air condenses onto the
surface. Running a metal stack up the chimney and running it through a closed
cap at the top to eliminate cold air ingress should solve that. That's what I
did with "B" vent when I removed the furnace from that chimney.

I am putting my reply here rather than individually.

My house was built in 1898

I have been here for about 35 years and there is always something to do.


Since this is going to cost a few buck I guess I will only get part of
it done this year.


If I get a high efficiency furnace and an electric gas heater and no
longer need a chimney at all, what's the best thing to do then?


Should it just be insulated and capped?

To remove it entirely would be expensive.

If it does get removed I'll be saving that job for when the entire roof
needs to be replaced...possibly in five years.

On 6/9/2014 2:01 PM, philo wrote:
I am putting my reply here rather than individually.

My house was built in 1898

I have been here for about 35 years and there is always something to do.


Since this is going to cost a few buck I guess I will only get part of
it done this year.


If I get a high efficiency furnace and an electric gas heater and no
longer need a chimney at all, what's the best thing to do then?


Should it just be insulated and capped?

To remove it entirely would be expensive.

If it does get removed I'll be saving that job for when the entire roof
needs to be replaced...possibly in five years.


I would cap it. If you remove it you might influence the historic value
of your house.
Some historic society may tell you can't change anything outside the
house that would change the appearance. This is common with older houses
built in the 1800's.

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

I'm not an expert on any of this, but we have a very
similar situation. There's a chimney that's now taking
only the water heater vent and there's a dead chimney.
I hadn't heard the idea that the chimney might be too
big for the vent. It seems to work fine. But we never
had condensation, either. I find it hard to imagine that
venting just the water heater through the chimney might
be a problem. It's not a heck of a lot of heat produced.
Mostly I'm just relieved that the furnace now vents outside
with PVC. The house was built in 1835. It made me nervous
to have the furnace venting through such an old chimney,
which is partially buried in walls with no way to check for
leaks or parge it.

We also have a dead chimney that I think had been used in
the 1800s for wood stoves. The living room and upstairs
bedroom both had a vent hole. It's been long dead now
and was cut off under the roof, in the attic. When I
remodelled the attic I capped it with concrete, mainly
for two reasons: To prevent field mice possibly coming
up to the attic from the cellar, and for safety, in case
someone ever decides to put in a wood stove without
checking the furnace first. (They'll get an awfully lot
of smoke but at least they won't set the roof on fire.

In your case I don't imagine there'd be any reason to
do anything about the chimney. It would take some work
to dismantle it and reroof. As long as the bricks aren't
falling, who cares?


"philo " wrote in message
...
|I am putting my reply here rather than individually.
|
| My house was built in 1898
|
| I have been here for about 35 years and there is always something to do.
|
|
| Since this is going to cost a few buck I guess I will only get part of
| it done this year.
|
|
| If I get a high efficiency furnace and an electric gas heater and no
| longer need a chimney at all, what's the best thing to do then?
|
|
| Should it just be insulated and capped?
|
| To remove it entirely would be expensive.
|
| If it does get removed I'll be saving that job for when the entire roof
| needs to be replaced...possibly in five years.

That's where I'd start.

Mayayana wrote:
I'm not an expert on any of this, but we have a very
similar situation. There's a chimney that's now taking
only the water heater vent and there's a dead chimney.
I hadn't heard the idea that the chimney might be too
big for the vent. It seems to work fine. But we never
had condensation, either. I find it hard to imagine that
venting just the water heater through the chimney might
be a problem. It's not a heck of a lot of heat produced.
Mostly I'm just relieved that the furnace now vents outside
with PVC. The house was built in 1835. It made me nervous
to have the furnace venting through such an old chimney,
which is partially buried in walls with no way to check for
leaks or parge it.

We also have a dead chimney that I think had been used in
the 1800s for wood stoves. The living room and upstairs
bedroom both had a vent hole. It's been long dead now
and was cut off under the roof, in the attic. When I
remodelled the attic I capped it with concrete, mainly
for two reasons: To prevent field mice possibly coming
up to the attic from the cellar, and for safety, in case
someone ever decides to put in a wood stove without
checking the furnace first. (They'll get an awfully lot
of smoke but at least they won't set the roof on fire.

In your case I don't imagine there'd be any reason to
do anything about the chimney. It would take some work
to dismantle it and reroof. As long as the bricks aren't
falling, who cares?


"philo " wrote in message
...
I am putting my reply here rather than individually.

My house was built in 1898

I have been here for about 35 years and there is always something to
do.


Since this is going to cost a few buck I guess I will only get part
of it done this year.


If I get a high efficiency furnace and an electric gas heater and no
longer need a chimney at all, what's the best thing to do then?


Should it just be insulated and capped?

To remove it entirely would be expensive.

If it does get removed I'll be saving that job for when the entire
roof needs to be replaced...possibly in five years.

Mayayana wrote:
I'm not an expert on any of this, but we have a very
similar situation. There's a chimney that's now taking
only the water heater vent and there's a dead chimney.
I hadn't heard the idea that the chimney might be too
big for the vent. It seems to work fine. But we never
had condensation, either. I find it hard to imagine that
venting just the water heater through the chimney might
be a problem. It's not a heck of a lot of heat produced.

The problem is not the heat, but the lack of it. The water heater does not
produce enough heat to warm the chimney. The cold chimney cools the heater
exhaust, the acidic moisture in the exhaust condenses on the chimney walls,
breaking down the mortor that holds the chimney together. Talk to the local
related building inspector about it if you want an expert opinion on both the
problem and the law related to it.

Does your water heater make less steam in cold weather than the neighbors that
exhausts through a 4" metal "B" vent? That could be because the water is
condensing out in the chimney.

On 06/09/2014 02:39 PM, Bob F wrote:
Mayayana wrote:
I'm not an expert on any of this, but we have a very
similar situation. There's a chimney that's now taking
only the water heater vent and there's a dead chimney.
I hadn't heard the idea that the chimney might be too
big for the vent. It seems to work fine. But we never
had condensation, either. I find it hard to imagine that
venting just the water heater through the chimney might
be a problem. It's not a heck of a lot of heat produced.

The problem is not the heat, but the lack of it. The water heater does not
produce enough heat to warm the chimney. The cold chimney cools the heater
exhaust, the acidic moisture in the exhaust condenses on the chimney walls,
breaking down the mortor that holds the chimney together. Talk to the local
related building inspector about it if you want an expert opinion on both the
problem and the law related to it.

Does your water heater make less steam in cold weather than the neighbors that
exhausts through a 4" metal "B" vent? That could be because the water is
condensing out in the chimney.





OK


I have a friend who just is a retired building inspector, guess I should
talk to him.

thanks to all else who replied.

BTW: Though my house is old it is not considered historic.

Went up into the attic.

When I insulated the attic 25+ years ago looks like I missed a spot.
It's right where the condensation is worst.

I now have that part insulated.

Should I also insulate the portion of the chimney that's in the attic?



As to getting a new furnace with central air...so far this is shaping up
to be a very cold Summer, so have postponed that project until next year.

philo wrote:
Went up into the attic.

When I insulated the attic 25+ years ago looks like I missed a spot.
It's right where the condensation is worst.

I now have that part insulated.

Should I also insulate the portion of the chimney that's in the attic?



As to getting a new furnace with central air...so far this is shaping up
to be a very cold Summer, so have postponed that project until next year.

I think insulation would be good. I don't have an attic, insulation, or
vents.

Greg

On 06/11/2014 11:39 PM, gregz wrote:
philo wrote:
Went up into the attic.

When I insulated the attic 25+ years ago looks like I missed a spot.
It's right where the condensation is worst.

I now have that part insulated.

Should I also insulate the portion of the chimney that's in the attic?



As to getting a new furnace with central air...so far this is shaping up
to be a very cold Summer, so have postponed that project until next year.

I think insulation would be good. I don't have an attic, insulation, or
vents.

Greg




Yes, I might as well insulate it

and also try to get rid of some up that junk I've stored up there.

When I was up there I found a lot of old computers and even a vacuum
tube amplifier.

On 6/12/2014 8:44 AM, philo wrote:

When I was up there I found a lot of old computers and even a vacuum
tube amplifier.

Vac tubes have a following. Please list on Ebay.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 06/12/2014 10:36 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/12/2014 8:44 AM, philo wrote:

When I was up there I found a lot of old computers and even a vacuum
tube amplifier.

Vac tubes have a following. Please list on Ebay.




I'm keeping all my vacuum tube stuff that's small.


The large console radios, I can hardly even give away.

philo* posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On 06/12/2014 10:36 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/12/2014 8:44 AM, philo wrote:

When I was up there I found a lot of old computers and even a vacuum
tube amplifier.

Vac tubes have a following. Please list on Ebay.




I'm keeping all my vacuum tube stuff that's small.


The large console radios, I can hardly even give away.

Try an auction house. Depending on condition some people just eat this stuff
up and you could make a buck. IDK about EPlay because it would be a massive
crating job to ship.

--
Tekkie

On 06/13/2014 07:53 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
p

The large console radios, I can hardly even give away.

Try an auction house. Depending on condition some people just eat this stuff
up and you could make a buck. IDK about EPlay because it would be a massive
crating job to ship.





The best I ever did was sell about six of them to a collector in
Ohio...but I had to deliver them.

Since I was going to PA I dropped them off along the way...then the guy
told me he'd have to pay me later.


Since I needed the van to be empty when I got to PA I had no choice but
to trust the guy and...I'll be darned, about six months later he paid me
the full amount.


I am no longer going to haul these off anywhere...it's more trouble than
it's worth

philo wrote:
On 06/12/2014 10:36 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/12/2014 8:44 AM, philo wrote:

When I was up there I found a lot of old computers and even a vacuum
tube amplifier.

Vac tubes have a following. Please list on Ebay.




I'm keeping all my vacuum tube stuff that's small.


The large console radios, I can hardly even give away.

Seems like collectors who restore them, are the only ones interested in
them.

Greg