Mounted on 2013 Snapper Rotary Brush Cutter. New last summer & ran about three tanks of gasoline (with stabilizer) through it. End of season closed fuel valve and ran 'til empty. Then disconnected fuel line and emptied tank completely. Yesterday filled halfway with new gasoline with stabilzer. Started and ran fine for about 20 minutes and then quit. Plenty of fuel in tank. Will not start. Fires one or two times and quits.
Any suggestions?

On 05/11/2014 10:58 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
Mounted on 2013 Snapper Rotary Brush Cutter. New last summer & ran about three tanks of gasoline (with stabilizer) through it. End of season closed fuel valve and ran 'til empty. Then disconnected fuel line and emptied tank completely. Yesterday filled halfway with new gasoline with stabilzer. Started and ran fine for about 20 minutes and then quit. Plenty of fuel in tank. Will not start. Fires one or two times and quits.
Any suggestions?


Check for spark at plug?

Check and/or replace spark plug?

Is spark plug wet?

Check gas tank vent?

Fuel line plugged?

Carburetor/intake manifold mounting bolts tight?

Frank,

Too little information to really tell. Sounds as if it's not getting gas.
My first guess is to take off the gas cap and see if it runs. There's an air
valve (a flapper) that let's air into the gas tank as the fuel level drops.
You may need a new one. Check this valve.

Dave M.

On Sunday, May 11, 2014 11:46:14 AM UTC-4, David L. Martel wrote:
Frank,



Too little information to really tell. Sounds as if it's not getting gas.

My first guess is to take off the gas cap and see if it runs. There's an air

valve (a flapper) that let's air into the gas tank as the fuel level drops.

You may need a new one. Check this valve.



Dave M.

+1 to the advice so far. You just have to follow the
basic diagnosis procedure. Start with the simple stuff.
I'd start with finding out if it has spark. Next, gas
getting to carb? etc.

trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, May 11, 2014 11:46:14 AM UTC-4, David L. Martel wrote:
Frank,



Too little information to really tell. Sounds as if it's not getting gas.

My first guess is to take off the gas cap and see if it runs. There's an air

valve (a flapper) that let's air into the gas tank as the fuel level drops.

You may need a new one. Check this valve.



Dave M.

+1 to the advice so far. You just have to follow the
basic diagnosis procedure. Start with the simple stuff.
I'd start with finding out if it has spark. Next, gas
getting to carb? etc.

Hmmm,
My first check would be ignition module. Make sure there is
good spark.

On Sun, 11 May 2014 09:54:30 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, May 11, 2014 11:46:14 AM UTC-4, David L. Martel wrote:
Frank,



Too little information to really tell. Sounds as if it's not getting gas.

My first guess is to take off the gas cap and see if it runs. There's an air

valve (a flapper) that let's air into the gas tank as the fuel level drops.

You may need a new one. Check this valve.



Dave M.

+1 to the advice so far. You just have to follow the
basic diagnosis procedure. Start with the simple stuff.
I'd start with finding out if it has spark. Next, gas
getting to carb? etc.

Hmmm,
My first check would be ignition module. Make sure there is
good spark.

Will it run without the air filter?

On Sunday, May 11, 2014 10:58:25 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
Mounted on 2013 Snapper Rotary Brush Cutter. New last summer & ran about three tanks of gasoline (with stabilizer) through it. End of season closed fuel valve and ran 'til empty. Then disconnected fuel line and emptied tank completely. Yesterday filled halfway with new gasoline with stabilzer. Started and ran fine for about 20 minutes and then quit. Plenty of fuel in tank. Will not start. Fires one or two times and quits.

Any suggestions?

try removing the sparkplug and squirt some gasoline into the hole, reinstall plug connect wire.

often this works here. the engine must draw a bit of vacuumn on the gas line and things run fine.

my mower was new last year, so its well less than a year old, but this is how i got mine running for the first time this year

On 5/11/2014 10:58 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
Mounted on 2013 Snapper Rotary Brush Cutter.
New last summer & ran about three tanks of gasoline
(with stabilizer) through it. End of season closed
fuel valve and ran 'til empty. Then disconnected
fuel line and emptied tank completely. Yesterday
filled halfway with new gasoline with stabilzer.
Started and ran fine for about 20 minutes and then
quit. Plenty of fuel in tank. Will not start.
Fires one or two times and quits.
Any suggestions?

One of the brands had bad insulation on the
ignition coil. One of the many things might
be, is clogged cooling fins and coil over
heating. Could also be valve clearance. Or
cheap motor oil. These three conditions can
cause the 20 minutes and dies symptoms.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sunday, May 11, 2014 5:28:03 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 5/11/2014 10:58 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:

Mounted on 2013 Snapper Rotary Brush Cutter.

New last summer & ran about three tanks of gasoline

(with stabilizer) through it. End of season closed

fuel valve and ran 'til empty. Then disconnected

fuel line and emptied tank completely. Yesterday

filled halfway with new gasoline with stabilzer.

Started and ran fine for about 20 minutes and then

quit. Plenty of fuel in tank. Will not start.

Fires one or two times and quits.

Any suggestions?



One of the brands had bad insulation on the

ignition coil. One of the many things might

be, is clogged cooling fins and coil over

heating. Could also be valve clearance. Or

cheap motor oil. These three conditions can

cause the 20 minutes and dies symptoms.



--

.

Christopher A. Young

Learn about Jesus

www.lds.org

.

20 minutes band quit? try running with gas cap loose...

if the vent on the cap fails the engine will run till the tank vacuumn stalls the engine. thats occured to me...

On Sun, 11 May 2014 07:58:25 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

Mounted on 2013 Snapper Rotary Brush Cutter. New last summer & ran about three tanks of gasoline (with stabilizer) through it. End of season closed fuel valve and ran 'til empty. Then disconnected fuel line and emptied tank completely. Yesterday filled halfway with new gasoline with stabilzer. Started and ran fine for about 20 minutes and then quit. Plenty of fuel in tank. Will not start. Fires one or two times and quits.
Any suggestions?

One thing to add to the other advice: does it have low oil shutdown? A
lot of larger engines do. I had a tiller that was just a little low
on oil. It ran fine sitting there, but when it was in use the angle
of the engine changed a bit when the tines dug in and it was enough to
trip the low oil shutdown.

Paul F.

On Sun, 11 May 2014 22:47:51 -0400, Paul Franklin
wrote:

One thing to add to the other advice: does it have low oil shutdown? A
lot of larger engines do. I had a tiller that was just a little low
on oil. It ran fine sitting there, but when it was in use the angle
of the engine changed a bit when the tines dug in and it was enough to
trip the low oil shutdown.

Excellent suggestion.

Thanks for all of the excellent suggestions. After having systematically gone through every thing suggested, because of the newness of the machine I just don't see a high probability of most of the components causing problems at this time. My #1 hunch is that a piece of trash somehow got into the fuel system (albeit the fuel was purchased last week).

I fooled around with that & believe fuel is getting to the carb and now my best guess is that it is electrical... specifically something to do with one of three switches related to the machine supposedly cutting off if operator lets go of bar across the horizontal handle which op is suppose to grip when the machine is operated. So far I've been able to locate 2 of the 3, but from their appearance they appear to be cheaply made and are good candidates for early failure.

My next problem is to isolate the assumed bad one. This bothers me because the furnished Snapper owners guide is a copied version and the extremely fine print is almost impossible to the decipher on the wiring diagrams. One of the issues is that neither of the guides (Snapper machine made here in GA and the Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engine made in Japan or China) treat the issue in a comprehensive manner... both claiming to not address specific models. Neither is accurate in their presentation of the cut-off switches.

Frank,

What draws your interest to the cut off switches? When the mower is not
working do you have spark?
Here's an easy test. Get some aerosol starter fluid. when it won't start
give the airfilter a healthy squirt of the fluid. Now try to start. If it
starts up then suspect gas or carb problems. If it won't start suspect
electrical problems.
If you can't read your poorly copied diagrams, there are diagrams on the
internet and many public libraries have "how to" manuals.

Dave M.

On 5/12/2014 6:14 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
Thanks for all of the excellent suggestions. After
having systematically gone through every thing suggested,
because of the newness of the machine I just don't see
a high probability of most of the components causing
problems at this time. My #1 hunch is that a piece
of trash somehow got into the fuel system (albeit the
fuel was purchased last week).

I fooled around with that & believe fuel is getting
to the carb and now my best guess is that it is
electrical... specifically something to do with one
of three switches related to the machine supposedly
cutting off if operator lets go of bar across the
horizontal handle which op is suppose to grip when
the machine is operated. So far I've been able to
locate 2 of the 3, but from their appearance they
appear to be cheaply made and are good candidates

for early failure.

My next problem is to isolate the assumed bad one.
This bothers me because the furnished Snapper owners
guide is a copied version and the extremely fine print
is almost impossible to the decipher on the wiring
diagrams. One of the issues is that neither of
the guides (Snapper machine made here in GA and
the Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engine made in
Japan or China) treat the issue in a comprehensive
manner... both claiming to not address specific
models. Neither is accurate in their presentation
of the cut-off switches.

That's quite a list of things to check.
I look forward to reading what the real
problem was. Thanks for writing again.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Monday, May 12, 2014 6:14:53 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
Thanks for all of the excellent suggestions. After having systematically gone through every thing suggested, because of the newness of the machine I just don't see a high probability of most of the components causing problems at this time. My #1 hunch is that a piece of trash somehow got into the fuel system (albeit the fuel was purchased last week).



I fooled around with that & believe fuel is getting to the carb and now my best guess is that it is electrical... specifically something to do with one of three switches related to the machine supposedly cutting off if operator lets go of bar across the horizontal handle which op is suppose to grip when the machine is operated. So far I've been able to locate 2 of the 3, but from their appearance they appear to be cheaply made and are good candidates for early failure.



My next problem is to isolate the assumed bad one. This bothers me because the furnished Snapper owners guide is a copied version and the extremely fine print is almost impossible to the decipher on the wiring diagrams. One of the issues is that neither of the guides (Snapper machine made here in GA and the Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engine made in Japan or China) treat the issue in a comprehensive manner... both claiming to not address specific models. Neither is accurate in their presentation of the cut-off switches.

Instead of finding all 3 switches, another approach is to
look at the wiring diagram, understand what they do and
you may be able to just bypass all of them at some
convenient access point. If they act in series for example, if you can just identify the endpoints, you
don't need to find all the switches. It also eliminates
problems in the wiring, etc.

On Mon, 12 May 2014 08:27:54 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 5/12/2014 6:14 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
Thanks for all of the excellent suggestions. After
having systematically gone through every thing suggested,
because of the newness of the machine I just don't see
a high probability of most of the components causing
problems at this time. My #1 hunch is that a piece
of trash somehow got into the fuel system (albeit the
fuel was purchased last week).

I fooled around with that & believe fuel is getting
to the carb and now my best guess is that it is
electrical... specifically something to do with one
of three switches related to the machine supposedly
cutting off if operator lets go of bar across the
horizontal handle which op is suppose to grip when
the machine is operated. So far I've been able to
locate 2 of the 3, but from their appearance they
appear to be cheaply made and are good candidates

for early failure.

My next problem is to isolate the assumed bad one.
This bothers me because the furnished Snapper owners
guide is a copied version and the extremely fine print
is almost impossible to the decipher on the wiring
diagrams. One of the issues is that neither of
the guides (Snapper machine made here in GA and
the Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engine made in
Japan or China) treat the issue in a comprehensive
manner... both claiming to not address specific
models. Neither is accurate in their presentation
of the cut-off switches.

That's quite a list of things to check.
I look forward to reading what the real
problem was. Thanks for writing again.
Just disconnect the "p lead" from the mag - that's the wire that is
grounded to kill the engine. This will eliminate low oil shutdown as
well as all safety switches as the cause.

On Monday, May 12, 2014 2:39:15 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 12 May 2014 08:27:54 -0400, Stormin Mormon

wrote:



On 5/12/2014 6:14 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:

Thanks for all of the excellent suggestions. After

having systematically gone through every thing suggested,

because of the newness of the machine I just don't see

a high probability of most of the components causing

problems at this time. My #1 hunch is that a piece

of trash somehow got into the fuel system (albeit the

fuel was purchased last week).



I fooled around with that & believe fuel is getting

to the carb and now my best guess is that it is

electrical... specifically something to do with one

of three switches related to the machine supposedly

cutting off if operator lets go of bar across the

horizontal handle which op is suppose to grip when

the machine is operated. So far I've been able to

locate 2 of the 3, but from their appearance they

appear to be cheaply made and are good candidates



for early failure.



My next problem is to isolate the assumed bad one.

This bothers me because the furnished Snapper owners

guide is a copied version and the extremely fine print

is almost impossible to the decipher on the wiring

diagrams. One of the issues is that neither of

the guides (Snapper machine made here in GA and

the Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engine made in

Japan or China) treat the issue in a comprehensive

manner... both claiming to not address specific

models. Neither is accurate in their presentation

of the cut-off switches.



That's quite a list of things to check.

I look forward to reading what the real

problem was. Thanks for writing again.

Just disconnect the "p lead" from the mag - that's the wire that is

grounded to kill the engine. This will eliminate low oil shutdown as

well as all safety switches as the cause.

And he should find out if there is or isn't spark. AFAIK, he
hasn't even done that yet, it's just his current guess that
it's electrical.

On Mon, 12 May 2014 13:27:35 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

And he should find out if there is or isn't spark. AFAIK, he
hasn't even done that yet, it's just his current guess that
it's electrical.

+1

Ground the removed spark plug on the head (clean metal), check the
spark for color - orange v. blue. Or buy an inline spark tester.

We don't know if any ignition wires are frayed, cracked and grounding
out, killing the engine. Heat can do that. Like when coils get hot,
expand and allow moisture in.

Seems OP thinks it is electrical. Not my experience with recent new
engines. Spark plugs can be bad out of the box or if the gap and heat
range specs are not correct.

On Mon, 12 May 2014 13:43:59 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2014 13:27:35 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

And he should find out if there is or isn't spark. AFAIK, he
hasn't even done that yet, it's just his current guess that
it's electrical.

+1

Ground the removed spark plug on the head (clean metal), check the
spark for color - orange v. blue. Or buy an inline spark tester.

We don't know if any ignition wires are frayed, cracked and grounding
out, killing the engine. Heat can do that. Like when coils get hot,
expand and allow moisture in.

Seems OP thinks it is electrical. Not my experience with recent new
engines. Spark plugs can be bad out of the box or if the gap and heat
range specs are not correct.
The fact it ran well when put away last year and now does not would
tend to point to fuel - unless it was stored in a shed with a chipmunk
that likes chewing on wires. Little buggers are cute but can do a LOT
of dammage. (did over $1500 to wife's car 4 years ago?

REAL easy to eliminate electrical problems by simply disconnecting the
wires. Nothing needs to be connected to run (except possibly the
starter to turn it over)

On Mon, 12 May 2014 17:36:49 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2014 13:43:59 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2014 13:27:35 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

And he should find out if there is or isn't spark. AFAIK, he
hasn't even done that yet, it's just his current guess that
it's electrical.

+1

Ground the removed spark plug on the head (clean metal), check the
spark for color - orange v. blue. Or buy an inline spark tester.

We don't know if any ignition wires are frayed, cracked and grounding
out, killing the engine. Heat can do that. Like when coils get hot,
expand and allow moisture in.

Seems OP thinks it is electrical. Not my experience with recent new
engines. Spark plugs can be bad out of the box or if the gap and heat
range specs are not correct.
The fact it ran well when put away last year and now does not would
tend to point to fuel - unless it was stored in a shed with a chipmunk
that likes chewing on wires. Little buggers are cute but can do a LOT
of dammage. (did over $1500 to wife's car 4 years ago?

REAL easy to eliminate electrical problems by simply disconnecting the
wires. Nothing needs to be connected to run (except possibly the
starter to turn it over)

Personally, I don't think the OP has an electrical problem on a recent
machine (guess) - it can happen, though.

I'd be looking at fuel and oxygen faults, and the solutions. I know
chipmunks The mower needs 3 things to run; air, fuel, and spark.

posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

Just disconnect the "p lead" from the mag - that's the wire that is
grounded to kill the engine. This will eliminate low oil shutdown as
well as all safety switches as the cause.

Thank you for this. Valuable knowledge!

--
Tekkie

posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

The fact it ran well when put away last year and now does not would
tend to point to fuel - unless it was stored in a shed with a chipmunk
that likes chewing on wires. Little buggers are cute but can do a LOT
of dammage. (did over $1500 to wife's car 4 years ago?

REAL easy to eliminate electrical problems by simply disconnecting the
wires. Nothing needs to be connected to run (except possibly the
starter to turn it over)

You are spot on with this. Tree rats will do this too. Wifes car and former
mower. My neighbor has cataracts so I may have to sight my rifle.


--
Tekkie

On 5/13/2014 7:41 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
REAL easy to eliminate electrical problems by simply disconnecting the
wires. Nothing needs to be connected to run (except possibly the
starter to turn it over)

You are spot on with this. Tree rats will do this too. Wifes car and former
mower. My neighbor has cataracts so I may have to sight my rifle.


You're going to shoot your neighbor? Some
how that sounds out of character for a
fine gentleman as yourself. Der eugenics,
mein herr? Shootenzie Hanzicapperneighbor?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Finally gave up on prob & called dealer to pick up & repair. Trash in carb was the prob. In over a half century with gasoline small engines have never had this prob other than damage done by the fuel itself .. old gasoline &/or gasoline with alcohol.

On Saturday, May 17, 2014 7:20:14 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
Finally gave up on prob & called dealer to pick up & repair. Trash in carb was the prob. In over a half century with gasoline small engines have never had this prob other than damage done by the fuel itself .. old gasoline &/or gasoline with alcohol.

I take it that the trash in the carb wasn't gunk from
gas gone bad. Did they give you any description of what
it was and how it might have gotten there?

In article ,
Frank Thompson wrote:

Finally gave up on prob & called dealer to pick up & repair. Trash in carb
was the prob. In over a half century with gasoline small engines have never
had this prob other than damage done by the fuel itself .. old gasoline &/or
gasoline with alcohol.

Frank-

There should be a fuel filter. It might be inside the fuel tank or part
of the fuel valve. If it is damaged or not there, I suggest you add an
in-line filter.

Fred

trader_4... no, the guy who delivered it did not know.. tomorrow I will call and ask... I am very curious to find out

fred... there is an external filter in the gas line a very short distance from where the line enters the carb

On Sunday, May 18, 2014 7:16:36 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
trader_4... no, the guy who delivered it did not know.. tomorrow I will call and ask... I am very curious to find out



fred... there is an external filter in the gas line a very short distance from where the line enters the carb

Was very frustrated over what I was told... i.e. there was some water in the carb. {Please see my original post & you will see why I frustrated.. what else could I have done). The gasolene in the tank that was the also used to fuel ATV and also used to supply very small container to mix chain saw fuel with oil. No other engines had this problem!

On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 6:06:21 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
On Sunday, May 18, 2014 7:16:36 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:

trader_4... no, the guy who delivered it did not know.. tomorrow I will call and ask... I am very curious to find out







fred... there is an external filter in the gas line a very short distance from where the line enters the carb



Was very frustrated over what I was told... i.e. there was some water in the carb. {Please see my original post & you will see why I frustrated.. what else could I have done). The gasolene in the tank that was the also used to fuel ATV and also used to supply very small container to mix chain saw fuel with oil. No other engines had this problem!

You say you drained the fuel tank at the end of the season.
And that it ran OK for 20 mins this season. That would seem
to suggest that the water was in the fuel you just put in it.
Did that gas sit around all winter? If so, one important thing
you could do is not end the season with a can of gas. Either
use it up, put it in a vehicle, etc.

Like you say, I've had gas sit around like that and had no problems.
I amost always have stabilizer in it. On the other hand, for some
reason, my Sear snowblower has had a fouled carb couple times, once
just sitting for a few months. With the lawnmower, leaf blower, etc,
I've never had a problem. And this problem was the typical gunk from
alscohol/gas in the carb, not actual water.

On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 11:06:46 AM UTC-1, trader_4 wrote:
{Please see my original post & you will see why I frustrated.. what else could I have done). The gasolene in the tank that was the also used to fuel ATV and also used to supply very small container to mix chain saw fuel with oil. No other engines had this problem!



You say you drained the fuel tank at the end of the season.
Yes

And that it ran OK for 20 mins this season.
Yes

That would seem
to suggest that the water was in the fuel you just put in it.
Did that gas sit around all winter? No only a few weeks old If so, one important thing you could do is not end the season with a can of gas. Either
use it up, put it in a vehicle, etc.
I amost always have stabilizer in it.
Me too.

Weed eater, two chain saws, and ATV ran fine with same fuel.

And this problem was the typical gunk from
alscohol/gas in the carb, not actual water.

This could very well be correct.

On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 9:04:49 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 11:06:46 AM UTC-1, trader_4 wrote:

{Please see my original post & you will see why I frustrated.. what else could I have done). The gasolene in the tank that was the also used to fuel ATV and also used to supply very small container to mix chain saw fuel with oil. No other engines had this problem!







You say you drained the fuel tank at the end of the season.

Yes



And that it ran OK for 20 mins this season.

Yes



That would seem

to suggest that the water was in the fuel you just put in it.

Did that gas sit around all winter? No only a few weeks old If so, one important thing you could do is not end the season with a can of gas. Either

use it up, put it in a vehicle, etc.

I amost always have stabilizer in it.

Me too.



Weed eater, two chain saws, and ATV ran fine with same fuel.



And this problem was the typical gunk from

alscohol/gas in the carb, not actual water.



This could very well be correct.

I meant the problem I experienced was the gunk type.
Not so sure about yours. When I've had them gunked up,
it just wouldn't start. I can also see it running rough,
hard to start, etc. How it runs OK for 20 mins, then
fails from gunk, may be possible, but I haven't seen it.

Did you read the manual for the proper winterization
procedure? Is there a way to drain the carb bowl, etc?

On Tue, 20 May 2014 03:06:21 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

On Sunday, May 18, 2014 7:16:36 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
trader_4... no, the guy who delivered it did not know.. tomorrow I will call and ask... I am very curious to find out



fred... there is an external filter in the gas line a very short distance from where the line enters the carb

Was very frustrated over what I was told... i.e. there was some water in the carb. {Please see my original post & you will see why I frustrated.. what else could I have done). The gasolene in the tank that was the also used to fuel ATV and also used to supply very small container to mix chain saw fuel with oil. No other engines had this problem!
Ethanol "grabs" the water - condensation and phase separation WILL
get you. Mabee you got the water off the bottom of the can in the
mower???

On Tue, 20 May 2014 06:04:49 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 11:06:46 AM UTC-1, trader_4 wrote:
{Please see my original post & you will see why I frustrated.. what else could I have done). The gasolene in the tank that was the also used to fuel ATV and also used to supply very small container to mix chain saw fuel with oil. No other engines had this problem!



You say you drained the fuel tank at the end of the season.
Yes

And that it ran OK for 20 mins this season.
Yes

That would seem
to suggest that the water was in the fuel you just put in it.
Did that gas sit around all winter? No only a few weeks old If so, one important thing you could do is not end the season with a can of gas. Either
use it up, put it in a vehicle, etc.
I amost always have stabilizer in it.
Me too.

Weed eater, two chain saws, and ATV ran fine with same fuel.

And this problem was the typical gunk from
alscohol/gas in the carb, not actual water.

This could very well be correct.

Stabilized will NOT prevent moisture from being attracted to the fuel,
or prevent it settling out. Stabilizer only prevents the fuel
oxidizing in the can. Wate of money if the gas will be used within a
couple months. Keep gas in SEALED containers, in cool, stable
temperatures.

On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 12:56:27 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 20 May 2014 06:04:49 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson

wrote:



On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 11:06:46 AM UTC-1, trader_4 wrote:

{Please see my original post & you will see why I frustrated.. what else could I have done). The gasolene in the tank that was the also used to fuel ATV and also used to supply very small container to mix chain saw fuel with oil. No other engines had this problem!







You say you drained the fuel tank at the end of the season.

Yes



And that it ran OK for 20 mins this season.

Yes



That would seem

to suggest that the water was in the fuel you just put in it.

Did that gas sit around all winter? No only a few weeks old If so, one important thing you could do is not end the season with a can of gas. Either

use it up, put it in a vehicle, etc.

I amost always have stabilizer in it.

Me too.



Weed eater, two chain saws, and ATV ran fine with same fuel.



And this problem was the typical gunk from

alscohol/gas in the carb, not actual water.



This could very well be correct.



Stabilized will NOT prevent moisture from being attracted to the fuel,

or prevent it settling out. Stabilizer only prevents the fuel

oxidizing in the can. Wate of money if the gas will be used within a

couple months. Keep gas in SEALED containers, in cool, stable

temperatures.

There are a variety of gasoline stabilizer product, not just one.
Some claim to help with the alcohol/water problem. Overall it would
seem pretty crazy to me for companies to be selling stabilizer that's
useless against the alcohol/water problem when almost all small
engines are using E10 now. What good is it to stabilize gas if it turns
to crap because of the water?

I would think a big part of the water problem is solved by just
keeping the container tightly sealed so no moisture can get in.

On Tue, 20 May 2014 12:47:39 -0400, wrote:

Ethanol "grabs" the water - condensation and phase separation WILL
get you. Mabee you got the water off the bottom of the can in the
mower???

When I was knee-high to a grasshopper, I learned, if you can see the
water in the gas can or mower gas tank, use a turkey baster. Lifts out
the water on the bottom

On Tue, 20 May 2014 11:39:28 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I would think a big part of the water problem is solved by just
keeping the container tightly sealed so no moisture can get in.

....I'd use a clear in-line fuel filter. You can see when things get
bad.
--
I like Guns and Titties

On 05/20/2014 02:54 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 20 May 2014 12:47:39 -0400, wrote:

Ethanol "grabs" the water - condensation and phase separation WILL
get you. Mabee you got the water off the bottom of the can in the
mower???

When I was knee-high to a grasshopper, I learned, if you can see the
water in the gas can or mower gas tank, use a turkey baster. Lifts out
the water on the bottom


From http://www.fuel-testers.com/remove_water_gas.html :

Removing water from E10 gas, always requires correcting octane rating. Pure ethanol has an octane of about 115. When manually removing water, octane enhancing ethanol is also removed - We recommend you check octane reading and add an octane enhancing
additive, if necessary. Running an engine on below recommended octane gas can cause major and costly damage.

On Tue, 20 May 2014 16:18:24 -0400, Chuck Finley
wrote:

Running an engine on below recommended octane gas can cause major and costly damage.

I once ran a mower engine 21 (?) years without an oil change. Beat
that! Sold it for $10

On 5/20/2014 2:54 PM, Oren wrote:

When I was knee-high to a grasshopper, I learned, if you can see the
water in the gas can or mower gas tank, use a turkey baster. Lifts out
the water on the bottom


Real Mans Turkey Baster (TM) uses a spiral gear
hose clamp.

RMTB also can be some help with the side saddle
B and S gas tanks on small mowers.
--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Tue, 20 May 2014 14:09:56 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 20 May 2014 16:18:24 -0400, Chuck Finley
wrote:

Running an engine on below recommended octane gas can cause major and costly damage.

I once ran a mower engine 21 (?) years without an oil change. Beat
that! Sold it for $10
My neighbour "the professor" got 25 years out of his. Broke the
recoil spring on the starter on Saturday and I told him it wasn't
worth spending any time on. He went and bought a 40 volt lithium ion
powered electric.