Hello,

Got to thinking about this a bit, and would be appreciative of any
thoughts or opinions on.
Probably a dumb question, but was wondering, and concerned.

Will probably have house painted this summer.
The typical wooden Colonial Clapboards style.
Present, and past paint has been Latex.
Hasn't been done in a very long time.

There is paint peeling, "here and there".

So, I guess, we have the Painter scrape where it is peeling, and feather
the edges, etc.

But, it is likely, I would imagine, that the adherence of all the
present paint to the initial paint job, and to the wood is problematical.

Any new paint, of course, never sees the wood itself, so cannot bond to
it. All it can bond to, I imagine, is the paint layer directly under,
which I am assuming has a "problematical" bond to the first paint layer
and/or the wood.

Am I looking at this correctly ?

This seems like a very typical concern, I would imagine.
Nobody wants a new fresh coat of paint to peel due to what it is
adhering to starts to peel.

How is this handled ?
Sure don't want to try and sand down all of the surface areas; totally
impractical.

Thoughts and comments would be most appreciated.

BTW: does pressure washing cause additional peeling ?
Good idea to ?
Caveats, such as a (very) low pressure, or...?

Thanks,
Bob

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 4/28/2014 11:36 AM, Bob wrote:
Hello,

Got to thinking about this a bit, and would be appreciative of any
thoughts or opinions on.
Probably a dumb question, but was wondering, and concerned.

Will probably have house painted this summer.
The typical wooden Colonial Clapboards style.
Present, and past paint has been Latex.
Hasn't been done in a very long time.

There is paint peeling, "here and there".

So, I guess, we have the Painter scrape where it is peeling, and feather
the edges, etc.

But, it is likely, I would imagine, that the adherence of all the
present paint to the initial paint job, and to the wood is problematical.

Any new paint, of course, never sees the wood itself, so cannot bond to
it. All it can bond to, I imagine, is the paint layer directly under,
which I am assuming has a "problematical" bond to the first paint layer
and/or the wood.

Am I looking at this correctly ?

This seems like a very typical concern, I would imagine.
Nobody wants a new fresh coat of paint to peel due to what it is
adhering to starts to peel.

How is this handled ?
Sure don't want to try and sand down all of the surface areas; totally
impractical.

Thoughts and comments would be most appreciated.

BTW: does pressure washing cause additional peeling ?
Good idea to ?
Caveats, such as a (very) low pressure, or...?

Thanks,
Bob

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com


Is peeling mainly at ends of boards and joints? That is likely, and due
to moisture getting into the end grain. I have wood siding, but not
clapboard. First, I would prep/paint in dry weather; fall is best, IMP.
Scrape the loose paint and don't worry about what is adhering. After
scraping, prime bare wood. After priming, caulk joints, gaps between
siding where it meets doors, windows, plumbing/elect. entries. Paint
within two/three days of priming.

Pressure washing is routine with concrete block/stucco but I don't
believe it is with wood. Washing is important. Paint the side not
exposed to sun, withing temp limits on label.

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 11:36:49 -0400, Bob wrote:

Hello,

Got to thinking about this a bit, and would be appreciative of any
thoughts or opinions on.
Probably a dumb question, but was wondering, and concerned.

Will probably have house painted this summer.
The typical wooden Colonial Clapboards style.
Present, and past paint has been Latex.
Hasn't been done in a very long time.

There is paint peeling, "here and there".

So, I guess, we have the Painter scrape where it is peeling, and feather
the edges, etc.

But, it is likely, I would imagine, that the adherence of all the
present paint to the initial paint job, and to the wood is problematical.

Any new paint, of course, never sees the wood itself, so cannot bond to
it. All it can bond to, I imagine, is the paint layer directly under,
which I am assuming has a "problematical" bond to the first paint layer
and/or the wood.

Am I looking at this correctly ?

This seems like a very typical concern, I would imagine.
Nobody wants a new fresh coat of paint to peel due to what it is
adhering to starts to peel.

How is this handled ?
Sure don't want to try and sand down all of the surface areas; totally
impractical.

Thoughts and comments would be most appreciated.

BTW: does pressure washing cause additional peeling ?
Good idea to ?
Caveats, such as a (very) low pressure, or...?

Thanks,
Bob

Personally if the paint it "chalking" a likely sanding with an orbital
sander may be in order to freshen the surface, so paint adheres
better. I did this on my fascia trim a few years ago. Worked great.

Painters use - Savogran brand Trisodium Phosphate Cleaner (TSP in the
red box at HD in the paints section. Painter's use it to clean
woodwork before repainting.

http://www.nelsonpaint.com/S10621.html

See: _Learn The Causes and Remedies For Chalking Paint_

http://www.house-painting-info.com/chalking-paint.html

On Monday, April 28, 2014 11:36:49 AM UTC-4, Bob wrote:
Hello,



Got to thinking about this a bit, and would be appreciative of any

thoughts or opinions on.

Probably a dumb question, but was wondering, and concerned.



Will probably have house painted this summer.

The typical wooden Colonial Clapboards style.

Present, and past paint has been Latex.

Hasn't been done in a very long time.



There is paint peeling, "here and there".



It's not unusual to have some paint peeling. If it's in certain
areas, you should try to identify why it's happening. Moisture
getting behind the wood is the biggest reason.



So, I guess, we have the Painter scrape where it is peeling, and feather

the edges, etc.



For removing peeling paint, by far the best thing I've ever seen
is a Wagner Paint Eater. It's like a circular sander or grinder, but
the head is a tough composite material, kind of like a super tough
version of one of the scrubber pads for pots. It quickly takes the
loose paint off and unlike a sander, doesn't clog up, so you can just
keep going.

Another great product is XIM peel bond. The name is a bit misleading.
It won't bond peeling paint. But it's a very thick self-leveling primer.
The idea is that it helps smooth out the transitions from the areas
with sound paint to the lower spots where the paint is gone. The bare
wood should be primed anyway. If you use this stuff, it helps level
it back out. It still wont be perfect, but it will be a lot less
noticeable.





But, it is likely, I would imagine, that the adherence of all the

present paint to the initial paint job, and to the wood is problematical.



Any new paint, of course, never sees the wood itself, so cannot bond to

it. All it can bond to, I imagine, is the paint layer directly under,

which I am assuming has a "problematical" bond to the first paint layer

and/or the wood.



Am I looking at this correctly ?



It's basically correct. You hope that the remaining paint stays
intact.




This seems like a very typical concern, I would imagine.

Nobody wants a new fresh coat of paint to peel due to what it is

adhering to starts to peel.



How is this handled ?

Sure don't want to try and sand down all of the surface areas; totally

impractical.



Thoughts and comments would be most appreciated.



BTW: does pressure washing cause additional peeling ?

Any paint that comes off with power washing you want to come
off, because it's ready to come off anyway. Painters do have to
be careful not to use too much pressure, because that can damage
the wood. I recommend using Jomax as the cleaner. It works well,
has a mildewcide in it too.




Good idea to ?

Caveats, such as a (very) low pressure, or...?



Thanks,

Bob



---

This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.

http://www.avast.com

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 09:15:46 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

For removing peeling paint, by far the best thing I've ever seen
is a Wagner Paint Eater. It's like a circular sander or grinder, but
the head is a tough composite material, kind of like a super tough
version of one of the scrubber pads for pots. It quickly takes the
loose paint off and unlike a sander, doesn't clog up, so you can just
keep going.

I had a bad experience with this tool. It broke after ~ the third
use. Pads do collect paint, but I was able to wash them with a water
hose to get them a little cleaner. They seem to wear fast, too. The
pads cost $15 each.

Reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-513040-0513040-PaintEater/product-reviews/B000FFYLJQ/ref=dpx_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1

An orbital sander worked best for me to feather the paint out where it
peeled.

YMMV

On Monday, April 28, 2014 12:27:44 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 09:15:46 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

wrote:



For removing peeling paint, by far the best thing I've ever seen

is a Wagner Paint Eater. It's like a circular sander or grinder, but

the head is a tough composite material, kind of like a super tough

version of one of the scrubber pads for pots. It quickly takes the

loose paint off and unlike a sander, doesn't clog up, so you can just

keep going.



I had a bad experience with this tool. It broke after ~ the third

use. Pads do collect paint, but I was able to wash them with a water

hose to get them a little cleaner. They seem to wear fast, too. The

pads cost $15 each.



Reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-513040-0513040-PaintEater/product-reviews/B000FFYLJQ/ref=dpx_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1



An orbital sander worked best for me to feather the paint out where it

peeled.



YMMV

It's kind of an even distribution on Amazon. Some people
are like me, saying it worked great. Others say is sucks.
Of the suckees, quite a few say their complaint is that
the motor died, like your experience. That may be legitimate,
unless they applied heavy pressure and bogged it down.
Some others seemed to have unrealistic expectations, like using
it to remove all paint and complaining that it didn't. AFAIK
it was never designed to strip paint, only to remove loose, peeling
paint. Whether the paint clogs it may depend on what kind of
paint. I never had to clean it doing all the trim on my house.

Bob wrote:
Hello,

Got to thinking about this a bit, and would be appreciative of any thoughts or opinions on.
Probably a dumb question, but was wondering, and concerned.

Will probably have house painted this summer.
The typical wooden Colonial Clapboards style.
Present, and past paint has been Latex.
Hasn't been done in a very long time.

There is paint peeling, "here and there".

So, I guess, we have the Painter scrape where it is peeling, and feather the edges, etc.

But, it is likely, I would imagine, that the adherence of all the
present paint to the initial paint job, and to the wood is problematical.

Any new paint, of course, never sees the wood itself, so cannot bond to
it. All it can bond to, I imagine, is the paint layer directly under,
which I am assuming has a "problematical" bond to the first paint layer and/or the wood.

Am I looking at this correctly ?

This seems like a very typical concern, I would imagine.
Nobody wants a new fresh coat of paint to peel due to what it is adhering
to starts to peel.

How is this handled ?
Sure don't want to try and sand down all of the surface areas; totally impractical.

Well, not _totally_ impractical. My neighbor took his entire 2 story
colonial down to the bare cedar singles, then primed and painted, 2 coats.
He used a heat coil and a scraper, a sanding disk on a drill, a right angle
grinder, whatever it took to get to wherever he was trying to get.

10 years later he sanded about 50% down to the bare shingles, primed the
entire house and changed the color, again using 2 coats.

After the second time he said it was his last time. Of course, he said the
same thing after the first time, but we're all a bit older now, so I
believe him.


Thoughts and comments would be most appreciated.

BTW: does pressure washing cause additional peeling ?
Good idea to ?
Caveats, such as a (very) low pressure, or...?

Thanks,
Bob

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

the paint job will cost a fortune if theres any lead based paint on your home.

no sanding permitted, since it can spread lead dust, all debris must be captured and disposed of properly.

I warned a buddy of mine about the new laws, he put the job off and costs doubled, he refused to get his home painted...

so just be prepared for some shocking costs, might be better to get home sided, soffit and fascia covered etc

| the paint job will cost a fortune if theres any lead based paint on your
home.
|

That statement needs to be detailed a bit. The
new law applies to houses built after 1979 only. The
requirements can add to the cost of the job, but not
necessarily a lot. The biggest factor is the extreme
use of ground coverings and cleanup required.

Also, there's an exemption clause. I needed to know
about this law for my own work as a contractor, so I
got a copy of it. There are a lot of informational
brochures available, but they only provide a general
explanation and are more scare tactics than informational.
Specifically, in all the information I found, nowhere was
the exemption mentioned. I only know about it because
I read the actual law. I ended up creating my own
legal form for people to sign, exempting the job from
the extreme deleading-like treatment detailed in the law,
as long as certain conditions are met. With most of my work
I can use this form. I've pasted the most relevant parts
below, which is enough to explain the details and links
where anyone can confirm the text of the law for themselves:

------------------------------------------------------
I confirm that the following statements are true:




1) I own and occupy the property.




2) There are no children under 6 years old currently living on the property.




3) There are no pregnant women currently living on the property.




4) I understand that the work will be done without following the
restrictions imposed by the

Federal Renovation, Repair, and Painting Program.




Owner signatu________________________________________ ______ Date:
____________________



This form is to confirm an exception from work requirements and restrictions
for carpentry, painting and other similar renovation work, according to the
following EPA Regulation:




Lead; Renovation, Repair, and Painting Program

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY

40 CFR Part 745




In accord with the following specification:




"Finally, this regulation contains an exception for renovations in
owner-occupied target housing where no child under age 6 or pregnant woman
resides, so long as the housing does not meet the definition of
"child-occupied facility". To claim this exception, the renovation firm must
obtain, before beginning the renovation, a signed statement from the owner
of the housing that states that the person signing is the owner of the
housing to be renovated, that he or she resides there,

that no child under age 6 or pregnant woman resides there, that the housing
is not a child-occupied facility, and that the owner understands that the
renovation firm will not be required to use the work practices contained in
this rule."




http://www.epa.gov/fedrgstr/EPA-TOX/...y-22/t8141.htm




In accord with the following requirements:




745.86 Recordkeeping and reporting requirements:

(6) Any signed and dated statements received from owner-occupants
documenting that the requirements of §745.85 do not apply. These statements
must include a declaration that the renovation will occur in the owner's
residence, a declaration that no children under age 6 reside there, a
declaration that no pregnant woman resides there, a declaration that the
housing is not a child-occupied facility, the address of the unit undergoing
renovation, the owner's name, an acknowledgment by the owner that the work
practices to be used during the renovation will not necessarily include all
of the lead-safe work practices contained in EPA's renovation, repair, and
painting rule, the signature of the owner, and the date of signature. These
statements must be written in the same language as the text of the
renovation contract, if any.




http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text...1.13& idno=40

On Monday, April 28, 2014 2:02:37 PM UTC-4, Mayayana wrote:
| the paint job will cost a fortune if theres any lead based paint on your

home.

|



That statement needs to be detailed a bit. The

new law applies to houses built after 1979 only. The

requirements can add to the cost of the job, but not

necessarily a lot. The biggest factor is the extreme

use of ground coverings and cleanup required.



Also, there's an exemption clause. I needed to know

about this law for my own work as a contractor, so I

got a copy of it. There are a lot of informational

brochures available, but they only provide a general

explanation and are more scare tactics than informational.

Specifically, in all the information I found, nowhere was

the exemption mentioned. I only know about it because

I read the actual law. I ended up creating my own

legal form for people to sign, exempting the job from

the extreme deleading-like treatment detailed in the law,

as long as certain conditions are met. With most of my work

I can use this form. I've pasted the most relevant parts

below, which is enough to explain the details and links

where anyone can confirm the text of the law for themselves:



------------------------------------------------------

I confirm that the following statements are true:









1) I own and occupy the property.









2) There are no children under 6 years old currently living on the property.









3) There are no pregnant women currently living on the property.









4) I understand that the work will be done without following the

restrictions imposed by the



Federal Renovation, Repair, and Painting Program.









Owner signatu________________________________________ ______ Date:

____________________







This form is to confirm an exception from work requirements and restrictions

for carpentry, painting and other similar renovation work, according to the

following EPA Regulation:









Lead; Renovation, Repair, and Painting Program



ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY



40 CFR Part 745









In accord with the following specification:









"Finally, this regulation contains an exception for renovations in

owner-occupied target housing where no child under age 6 or pregnant woman

resides, so long as the housing does not meet the definition of

"child-occupied facility". To claim this exception, the renovation firm must

obtain, before beginning the renovation, a signed statement from the owner

of the housing that states that the person signing is the owner of the

housing to be renovated, that he or she resides there,



that no child under age 6 or pregnant woman resides there, that the housing

is not a child-occupied facility, and that the owner understands that the

renovation firm will not be required to use the work practices contained in

this rule."









http://www.epa.gov/fedrgstr/EPA-TOX/...y-22/t8141.htm









In accord with the following requirements:









745.86 Recordkeeping and reporting requirements:



(6) Any signed and dated statements received from owner-occupants

documenting that the requirements of �745.85 do not apply. These statements

must include a declaration that the renovation will occur in the owner's

residence, a declaration that no children under age 6 reside there, a

declaration that no pregnant woman resides there, a declaration that the

housing is not a child-occupied facility, the address of the unit undergoing

renovation, the owner's name, an acknowledgment by the owner that the work

practices to be used during the renovation will not necessarily include all

of the lead-safe work practices contained in EPA's renovation, repair, and

painting rule, the signature of the owner, and the date of signature. These

statements must be written in the same language as the text of the

renovation contract, if any.









http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text...1.13& idno=40

Sorry I believe your mistaken. first the law doesnt matter for any homes built after 1979 because by that time lead in paint was illegal.but its definetely applies to all older homes

paintaing the outside of homes with lead pait endangers not only the residents but the neighbors.. lots of kids have brain damage from excess exposure to lead

while there is a exemption to homeowner work thats done only by the homeowner once you involve a contractor or even a handyan the law applies. or even a helper.

the entire area must be tarped to collect all paint chips, no sanding is permitted since it can create dust that becomes airborne.

these necessary laws have greatly increased the cost of repainting.

most around here get vinyl siding so they never have to paint again

Sorry I believe your mistaken.

All I can say is read the law. I provided the links.

these necessary laws have greatly increased the cost of repainting.
most around here get vinyl siding so they never have to paint again


Another thought: I think you're overreacting a bit.
The whole country is not going to go to vinyl just
because of the new lead paint laws. Many can't
realistically do that anyway. Vinyl siding is godawful
ugly. It can only be used in lower value neighborhoods.
(I'm actually looking at a job now where a woman
wants to strip off old aluminum siding and rebuild
the window trim.)

I saw a house being worked on recently. It was one
of those gigantic Victorian types with 4 or 6 apartments.
The crew had tacked plastic sheet under the bottom
row of clapboard, which hung down in front of the
cellar wall and extended out from the house. At the end
of the day they have to fold the sheet and dispose of
it. It can't be re-used. It's a big hassle, but not prohibitive.
Estimates I've seen are that it's likely to add 20% to the
cost of a job. The license for it requires about $300 and
a one-day workshop. I haven't got the license myself because
I just don't want to deal with that kind of hassle, and while
I do some painting jobs, what I mostly do is building and
renovations where I also do the painting. In many cases
there's a demo crew for that, so they're the ones who
have to deal with the requirements. Also, as I mentioned
above, most of my jobs qualify for the exemption.

"Mayayana" wrote:

....major snippage occurred...


"Finally, this regulation contains an exception for renovations in
owner-occupied target housing where no child under age 6 or pregnant woman
resides, so long as the housing does not meet the definition of
"child-occupied facility". To claim this exception, the renovation firm must
obtain, before beginning the renovation, a signed statement from the owner
of the housing that states that the person signing is the owner of the
housing to be renovated, that he or she resides there,
that no child under age 6 or pregnant woman resides there, that the housing
is not a child-occupied facility, and that the owner understands that the
renovation firm will not be required to use the work practices contained in
this rule."

....major snippage occurred...

So it doesn't matter that the houses on all sides of the house being sanded
are inhabited by a total of 14 kids age 5 and under and 6 pregnant females?
Some city houses are within a few feet of each other. The occupants of
those "child-occupied facilities" are not figured into the equation when
the exterior of a lead paint covered house is being sanded?

Are you sure that the exception, as posted, applies to the _exterior_ of a
house?

| Are you sure that the exception, as posted, applies to the _exterior_ of a
| house?

See the text of the law. You don't have to
take my word for it. It's true that there could
be cases where a house with kids is nearby,
but I didn't see anything about that. And the
law provides mainly for extensive ground
coverage, anyway. There's nothing about
not making dust that could float.

There's also an exemption for any situation
where there's less than 6 sq. ft. of surface
"disturbed" inside. I think the limit is 10 sq. ft.
outside.

But it does have to be owner-occupied. An
owner can't make that decision for a tenant,
and with multiple condos in a single building
they don't seem to say. For interior work each
condo is a separate unit, so that's OK. But for
exterior work I would imagine that all owners
must qualify and agree.

On Monday, April 28, 2014 6:57:16 PM UTC-4, Mayayana wrote:
| Are you sure that the exception, as posted, applies to the _exterior_ of a

| house?



See the text of the law. You don't have to

take my word for it. It's true that there could

be cases where a house with kids is nearby,

but I didn't see anything about that. And the

law provides mainly for extensive ground

coverage, anyway. There's nothing about

not making dust that could float.



There's also an exemption for any situation

where there's less than 6 sq. ft. of surface

"disturbed" inside. I think the limit is 10 sq. ft.

outside.



But it does have to be owner-occupied. An

owner can't make that decision for a tenant,

and with multiple condos in a single building

they don't seem to say. For interior work each

condo is a separate unit, so that's OK. But for

exterior work I would imagine that all owners

must qualify and agree.

lets imagine a neighborhood with zero kids for 10 blocks.....

so you know threres no kids and ignore the law.

the day you finish scraping sanding etc the home next door gets new residents, with 10 little kids....

they get ill because you didnt follow the law

Some peeling is typical. You just scrape off
what's loose, wash, and then prime the bare areas.
You should really prime with a good linseed oil
primer. If it's latex paint now you can use either
more latex/acrylic paint or water-base "stain".

Pressure washing can cause more peeling, yes.
Depending on the surface, it can get in under the
edges and cause further peeling later.

In any case, if you don't trust the painter to make
these decisions then you might want to find another
painter.

"Bob" wrote in message
...
| Hello,
|
| Got to thinking about this a bit, and would be appreciative of any
| thoughts or opinions on.
| Probably a dumb question, but was wondering, and concerned.
|
| Will probably have house painted this summer.
| The typical wooden Colonial Clapboards style.
| Present, and past paint has been Latex.
| Hasn't been done in a very long time.
|
| There is paint peeling, "here and there".
|
| So, I guess, we have the Painter scrape where it is peeling, and feather
| the edges, etc.
|
| But, it is likely, I would imagine, that the adherence of all the
| present paint to the initial paint job, and to the wood is problematical.
|
| Any new paint, of course, never sees the wood itself, so cannot bond to
| it. All it can bond to, I imagine, is the paint layer directly under,
| which I am assuming has a "problematical" bond to the first paint layer
| and/or the wood.
|
| Am I looking at this correctly ?
|
| This seems like a very typical concern, I would imagine.
| Nobody wants a new fresh coat of paint to peel due to what it is
| adhering to starts to peel.
|
| How is this handled ?
| Sure don't want to try and sand down all of the surface areas; totally
| impractical.
|
| Thoughts and comments would be most appreciated.
|
| BTW: does pressure washing cause additional peeling ?
| Good idea to ?
| Caveats, such as a (very) low pressure, or...?
|
| Thanks,
| Bob
|
| ---
| This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
| http://www.avast.com
|

Bob[_44_]:

The standard procedure when repainting a house is to scrape off any paint that's not putting up a respectable fight to stay on the house, then sanding the edges of the sticking paint to eliminate "paint edges" showing through the top coat, priming the bare wood, and repainting.

Your point is well taken that any existing paint that's not sticking well will be the weakest link in the chain. But hopefully any paint that isn't sticking as well as it should would be discovered in the scraping phase at the start of the job.

Pressure washing, so far as I know, is a good way to remove any old paint. If the paint will withstand a pressure washing, it's sticking as well as could be expected, and removing it to apply new paint that's not going to stick any better is a waste of time and money.

Your point that the existing paint could start to peel in the future is also well taken. But, since you can't tell where those areas are now, you have no choice except to presume that anything that's sticking well now will stay stuck well. And, if it doesn't, then that paint will be removed the NEXT time you repaint your house.

"Bob" wrote in message

Hello,

Got to thinking about this a bit, and would be
appreciative of any thoughts or opinions on.
Probably a dumb question, but was wondering, and
concerned.
Will probably have house painted this summer.
The typical wooden Colonial Clapboards style.
Present, and past paint has been Latex.
Hasn't been done in a very long time.

There is paint peeling, "here and there".

So, I guess, we have the Painter scrape where it is
peeling, and feather the edges, etc.

But, it is likely, I would imagine, that the adherence of
all the present paint to the initial paint job, and to the wood
is problematical.

If ir resists scraping it is should be good to go. To assuage any lingering
doubt, the house could be sprayed with a thin, acrylic sealer such as
SealKrete. Yes, it is primarily for masonry but works well for wood
too...if the paint is chalking or otherwise porous it will firm it up
nicely; if it penetrates through the paint to the wood it will increase the
adhesion of the old paint.
_________________

BTW: does pressure washing cause additional peeling ?

Probably. Which isn't a bad thing.

My house is concrete block & stucco but there is some wood - fascia, etc -
which is pressure washed prior to painting. Just be sure all is dry before
painting.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Bob wrote:
Hello,

Got to thinking about this a bit, and would be appreciative of any
thoughts or opinions on.
Probably a dumb question, but was wondering, and concerned.

Will probably have house painted this summer.
The typical wooden Colonial Clapboards style.
Present, and past paint has been Latex.
Hasn't been done in a very long time.

There is paint peeling, "here and there".

So, I guess, we have the Painter scrape where it is peeling, and
feather the edges, etc.

But, it is likely, I would imagine, that the adherence of all the
present paint to the initial paint job, and to the wood is
problematical.
Any new paint, of course, never sees the wood itself, so cannot bond
to it. All it can bond to, I imagine, is the paint layer directly under,
which I am assuming has a "problematical" bond to the first paint
layer and/or the wood.

Am I looking at this correctly ?

This seems like a very typical concern, I would imagine.
Nobody wants a new fresh coat of paint to peel due to what it is
adhering to starts to peel.

How is this handled ?
Sure don't want to try and sand down all of the surface areas; totally
impractical.

Thoughts and comments would be most appreciated.

When I have repainted parts of my house, I've gotten extremely good results by
heat stripping 60-70 years of paint using a handheld electric radiant paint
stripping tool and various putty knives or paint scrapers. It is very slow work,
but the result looks like new paint on brand new wood, and I have had no peeling
anywhere I've dons this.

This is the type of tool I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Warner-Manufac...=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

I hold the tool over the paint for about 5-8 seconds, then quickly slide the
putty knife under the bubbling paint and scrape off the area heated, then move
and repeat. I usually will do a quick scrape on the bottom edge of the board
above, then the face of the board I heated. This work especially well on
multiple layers of paint, not quite as well on just 1 layer. You have to use
care if using the tool over already scraped wood, as it is easy to burn the wood
if you do that. I sometimes us some sheet metal or a wide putty knife as a
shield to keep the heat off of certain areas. A light sanding with an orbital
sander afterwards will quickly remove most of the tiny bits of crisped paint
remaining before applying the oil based primer I use under the latex paint.

A light sanding with an orbital

sander afterwards will quickly remove most of the tiny bits of crisped paint

remaining before applying the oil based primer I use under the latex paint.

if theres lead in the paint your not supposed to sand it, it makes a lead particle dust cloud

bob haller wrote:
A light sanding with an orbital

sander afterwards will quickly remove most of the tiny bits of
crisped paint

remaining before applying the oil based primer I use under the latex
paint.

if theres lead in the paint your not supposed to sand it, it makes a
lead particle dust cloud

Did you miss the part where I removed almost all the paint first?

Do you think scraping and feathering (sanding) is better?

Using the heat, the paint comes off in large chunks, easy to collect and dispose
of.
..

ultimately the painting contactor is required to follow the law...

so call some contractors and be prepared for a expensive repaint. or risk getting sued by your neighbors if you dont follow the law..

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 17:32:52 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

ultimately the painting contactor is required to follow the law...


Requirement and following the law are not the same, Bob.

so call some contractors and be prepared for a expensive repaint. or risk getting sued by your neighbors if you dont follow the law..

I'm all shook up. I was once sued by a Nigerian Prince. He retreated,
withdrew his case, knowing he was wrong

OP has never said his home had lead paint within 20 miles of his
location. Did I miss something in his comment?

On Monday, April 28, 2014 8:41:15 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 17:32:52 -0700 (PDT), bob haller

wrote:



ultimately the painting contactor is required to follow the law...





Requirement and following the law are not the same, Bob.



so call some contractors and be prepared for a expensive repaint. or risk getting sued by your neighbors if you dont follow the law..



I'm all shook up. I was once sued by a Nigerian Prince. He retreated,

withdrew his case, knowing he was wrong



OP has never said his home had lead paint within 20 miles of his

location. Did I miss something in his comment?

the vast majority of homes have lead paint because of their age....

a high profile problem could hurt resale values for a entire neighborhood.....

people are sue happy these days......

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 17:44:56 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Monday, April 28, 2014 8:41:15 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 17:32:52 -0700 (PDT), bob haller

wrote:



ultimately the painting contactor is required to follow the law...





Requirement and following the law are not the same, Bob.



so call some contractors and be prepared for a expensive repaint. or risk getting sued by your neighbors if you dont follow the law..



I'm all shook up. I was once sued by a Nigerian Prince. He retreated,

withdrew his case, knowing he was wrong



OP has never said his home had lead paint within 20 miles of his

location. Did I miss something in his comment?

the vast majority of homes have lead paint because of their age....


Maybe in Pittsburgh, but not a vast majority here. Not saying there
isn't some or any, but it surely isn't a "vast majority".

a high profile problem could hurt resale values for a entire neighborhood.....


So never buy the house.

people are sue happy these days......

Nothing new.