Hi All,
I'm about to paint the exterior of my Mock Tudor style house
(just waiting for the scaffold installation) My question is Following
preparation of the wood and painted Wall surface in what order do I paint,
Is it wood first and then walls or vice versa? Also what paint finish
should I use to ensure a quality look to the wood? Any tips would be
appreciated.
Regards
Take care
Bill

"bill norman" wrote in message
...
Hi All,
I'm about to paint the exterior of my Mock Tudor style
house
(just waiting for the scaffold installation) My question is Following
preparation of the wood and painted Wall surface in what order do I paint,
Is it wood first and then walls or vice versa? Also what paint finish
should I use to ensure a quality look to the wood? Any tips would be
appreciated.

Do you want it to look like an authentic Tudor timber framed house?

Mary

Regards
Take care
Bill

On 14 May 2005, Mary Fisher wrote


"bill norman" wrote in message
...
Hi All,
I'm about to paint the exterior of my Mock Tudor style
house
(just waiting for the scaffold installation) My question is
Following preparation of the wood and painted Wall surface in
what order do I paint, Is it wood first and then walls or vice
versa? Also what paint finish should I use to ensure a quality
look to the wood? Any tips would be appreciated.

Do you want it to look like an authentic Tudor timber framed
house?

Presumably not, as he's painting the wood (rather than limewashing the
whole thing).

--
Cheers,
Harvey

bill norman wrote:
Hi All,
I'm about to paint the exterior of my Mock Tudor style house
(just waiting for the scaffold installation) My question is Following
preparation of the wood and painted Wall surface in what order do I paint,
Is it wood first and then walls or vice versa? Also what paint finish
should I use to ensure a quality look to the wood? Any tips would be
appreciated.
Regards
Take care
Bill

lightest colour first


RT

Hi,
I have only recently moved to this home and it has been painted
previously on more than one occasion. I'm not looking to create absolute
replica of the Tudor finish, I just need to prepare and paint to preserve
the materials.
Regards
Bill
"Harvey Van Sickle" wrote in message
...
On 14 May 2005, Mary Fisher wrote


"bill norman" wrote in message
...
Hi All,
I'm about to paint the exterior of my Mock Tudor style
house
(just waiting for the scaffold installation) My question is
Following preparation of the wood and painted Wall surface in
what order do I paint, Is it wood first and then walls or vice
versa? Also what paint finish should I use to ensure a quality
look to the wood? Any tips would be appreciated.

Do you want it to look like an authentic Tudor timber framed
house?

Presumably not, as he's painting the wood (rather than limewashing the
whole thing).

--
Cheers,
Harvey

Thank you RT for your input, now I need to know what finish in the colour
"black" do I need for wood not to look to garish.
Regards
Bill
"[news]" wrote in message
news
bill norman wrote:
Hi All,
I'm about to paint the exterior of my Mock Tudor style
house
(just waiting for the scaffold installation) My question is Following
preparation of the wood and painted Wall surface in what order do I
paint,
Is it wood first and then walls or vice versa? Also what paint finish
should I use to ensure a quality look to the wood? Any tips would be
appreciated.
Regards
Take care
Bill

lightest colour first


RT

"Harvey Van Sickle" wrote in message
...
On 14 May 2005, Mary Fisher wrote


"bill norman" wrote in message
...
Hi All,
I'm about to paint the exterior of my Mock Tudor style
house
(just waiting for the scaffold installation) My question is
Following preparation of the wood and painted Wall surface in
what order do I paint, Is it wood first and then walls or vice
versa? Also what paint finish should I use to ensure a quality
look to the wood? Any tips would be appreciated.

Do you want it to look like an authentic Tudor timber framed
house?

Presumably not, as he's painting the wood (rather than limewashing the
whole thing).

Well, quite ...

Mary

--
Cheers,
Harvey

"bill norman" wrote in message
...
Thank you RT for your input, now I need to know what finish in the colour
"black" do I need for wood not to look to garish.

The timber element wasn't usually painted. It grew dark from age. Oak was
usually used and it preserved itself.

The infill was limewash, often coloured.

Mary

Thank you Mary for your response.
Regards
Bill.
"Mary Fisher" wrote in message
. net...

"bill norman" wrote in message
...
Thank you RT for your input, now I need to know what finish in the
colour
"black" do I need for wood not to look to garish.

The timber element wasn't usually painted. It grew dark from age. Oak was
usually used and it preserved itself.

The infill was limewash, often coloured.

Mary

bill norman wrote:
Thank you RT for your input, now I need to know what finish in the colour
"black" do I need for wood not to look to garish.

If you use eg a gun-metal grey for the woodwork with cream or
white-with-a-touch-of-grey for the infill, you will avoid the sharp
contrast of black vs white.

Grey would be closer to the colour of weathered oak, and the Tudors used
quite bright colours for their stucco work.

Have a look at what neighbouring properties of a similar style have done
and see what you dislike least.

Owain

"Owain" wrote in message
...
bill norman wrote:
Thank you RT for your input, now I need to know what finish in the colour
"black" do I need for wood not to look to garish.

If you use eg a gun-metal grey for the woodwork with cream or
white-with-a-touch-of-grey for the infill, you will avoid the sharp
contrast of black vs white.

That's a very good solution, Owain. I'd add that it would look better in a
matt or at least semi-matt finish.

Grey would be closer to the colour of weathered oak, and the Tudors used
quite bright colours for their stucco work.

Have a look at what neighbouring properties of a similar style have done
and see what you dislike least.

Most people seem to use bright black and white. It's what's expected.

Mary

On 14 May 2005, bill norman wrote

Hi,
I have only recently moved to this home and it has
been painted
previously on more than one occasion. I'm not looking to create
absolute replica of the Tudor finish, I just need to prepare and
paint to preserve the materials.

That's absolutely fair: you did say it was a mock-Tudor (I was just
having a bit of fun tweaking Mary on it, even though she's giving very
sound advice on colours.)

One can get too precious about these things, but the advice that's been
posted about checking out what's been done with nearby buildings is
very sound.

FWIW:

1. Stark black-and-white is a very 1920s' view of what Tudor should be,
but then again: if your house is a 1920s' mock Tudor, stark black-and-
white would be historically accurate.

2. Given a free hand I'd probably go for cream infills, with that
"towards-black-but-actually-dark-brown" colour that one found in
Edwardian interiors. Like soup: very dark brown soup.

And as mentioned elsewhere, light paint first, dark paint last.

--
Cheers,
Harvey

"Harvey Van Sickle" wrote in message
...
On 14 May 2005, bill norman wrote

Hi,
I have only recently moved to this home and it has
been painted
previously on more than one occasion. I'm not looking to create
absolute replica of the Tudor finish, I just need to prepare and
paint to preserve the materials.

That's absolutely fair: you did say it was a mock-Tudor (I was just
having a bit of fun tweaking Mary on it,

LOL! I'm untweakable :-) Spouse gave up trying donkey's years ago - as I did
him!

Mary

Mary Fisher wrote:

"Owain" wrote in message
...

bill norman wrote:

Thank you RT for your input, now I need to know what finish in the colour
"black" do I need for wood not to look to garish.

If you use eg a gun-metal grey for the woodwork with cream or
white-with-a-touch-of-grey for the infill, you will avoid the sharp
contrast of black vs white.


That's a very good solution, Owain. I'd add that it would look better in a
matt or at least semi-matt finish.

Grey would be closer to the colour of weathered oak, and the Tudors used
quite bright colours for their stucco work.

Have a look at what neighbouring properties of a similar style have done
and see what you dislike least.


Most people seem to use bright black and white. It's what's expected.


Thqats what teh vitciorians started. Whitewash and tar.

Mary

In message , bill norman
writes
Thank you Mary for your response.
Regards
Bill.
"Mary Fisher" wrote in message
.net...

"bill norman" wrote in message
...
Thank you RT for your input, now I need to know what finish in the
colour
"black" do I need for wood not to look to garish.

The timber element wasn't usually painted. It grew dark from age. Oak was
usually used and it preserved itself.

The infill was limewash, often coloured.


Often a warm pink - I'm not sure what they put in it but it looked
lovely in evening light.
Very dark brown timbers go well with it.

--
Sue ]

MadCow wrote:
In message , bill norman
writes

Thank you Mary for your response.
Regards
Bill.
"Mary Fisher" wrote in message
. net...


"bill norman" wrote in message
...
Thank you RT for your input, now I need to know what finish in the

colour

"black" do I need for wood not to look to garish.

The timber element wasn't usually painted. It grew dark from age. Oak
was
usually used and it preserved itself.

The infill was limewash, often coloured.


Often a warm pink - I'm not sure what they put in it

Ox blood mainly. And cow dung.

but it looked
lovely in evening light.

I love the smell of napalm in teh morning....

Very dark brown timbers go well with it.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I love the smell of napalm in teh morning....

I think you'll be waiting a while for Glade/Haze/Airwick to catch on ...

Owain

"MadCow" wrote in message
...


Often a warm pink - I'm not sure what they put in it

Various vegetable dyes and, very occasionally, minerals were used. The
latter were expensive and largely insoluble so were rare.

Blood of any kind was useless for a permanent pink colour because it would
oxidise to brown.

but it looked lovely in evening light.
Very dark brown timbers go well with it.

But as has been said, the oak timbers weren't treated and would usually
bleach to a silvery colour.

Mary

--
Sue ]

On Sun, 22 May 2005 00:22:25 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Ox blood mainly

Sorry, thats an urban myth. So much blood would be needed to colour it
that no-one but the butcher would have access anything like the
quantity needed. And blood is a good foodstuff, not to be wasted on
colouring paint. Red ochre pigment (coloured earth) was generally used

Anna


~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642

"Anna Kettle" wrote in message
...

....


... Red ochre pigment (coloured earth) was generally used

Ah yes, Anna, that's what I was trying to remember! Thanks. But vegetable
dyes were known to have ben used.


Mary

On Sun, 22 May 2005 18:46:43 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:

Ah yes, Anna, that's what I was trying to remember! Thanks. But vegetable
dyes were known to have ben used.

Do you know any more about this? Some vegetable dyes are very strong,
like blackberry but I'm surprised they are fast

Anna

~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642

Mary Fisher wrote:

"MadCow" wrote in message
...

Often a warm pink - I'm not sure what they put in it


Various vegetable dyes and, very occasionally, minerals were used. The
latter were expensive and largely insoluble so were rare.

Blood of any kind was useless for a permanent pink colour because it would
oxidise to brown.


Yup. Thats the color they used to go...


but it looked lovely in evening light.
Very dark brown timbers go well with it.


But as has been said, the oak timbers weren't treated and would usually
bleach to a silvery colour.

some and some.

Mary

--
Sue ]

Anna Kettle wrote:

On Sun, 22 May 2005 18:46:43 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


Ah yes, Anna, that's what I was trying to remember! Thanks. But vegetable
dyes were known to have ben used.


Do you know any more about this? Some vegetable dyes are very strong,
like blackberry but I'm surprised they are fast


Perhaps they used woad?

Anna

~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642

"Anna Kettle" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 May 2005 18:46:43 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:

Ah yes, Anna, that's what I was trying to remember! Thanks. But vegetable
dyes were known to have been used.

Do you know any more about this? Some vegetable dyes are very strong,
like blackberry but I'm surprised they are fast

Blackberry, as far as I know, is very fugitive. Unless you collect them in
your shirt of course when they stain for ever G

I was thinking particularly about alkanet, which is fat soluble and the fat
was added to the mixture. It doesn't need a mordant in that application.

Madder might have been used, I'll see if I can find anything about it but I
thought you'd have been the expert :-)

Mary
Anna

~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642

On Sun, 22 May 2005 21:40:41 GMT, Anna Kettle wrote:


Do you know any more about this? Some vegetable dyes are very strong,
like blackberry but I'm surprised they are fast

Nothing to do with dyes at all, but seeing your post has reminded me - what
did you do about your wool/natural insulation in the end?

--
Holly, in France
Holiday home in Dordogne
http://la-plaine.chez.tiscali.fr

On Mon, 23 May 2005 11:24:08 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:

I was thinking particularly about alkanet, which is fat soluble and the fat
was added to the mixture. It doesn't need a mordant in that application.

Madder might have been used, I'll see if I can find anything about it but I
thought you'd have been the expert :-)

No but I'd like to be

Anna


~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642

On Mon, 23 May 2005 12:20:33 +0100, Holly in France
wrote:

Nothing to do with dyes at all, but seeing your post has reminded me - what
did you do about your wool/natural insulation in the end?

I decided that at market rates ecofriendly at eight times the price is
too expensive for me BUT there are grants available and they might
make a difference. I am now awaiting the visit of their surveyor and
as my house is an extremely non standard case, I hope the surveyor
turns out to be a good mate and not a jobsworth

Anna

~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642

"Anna Kettle" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 May 2005 12:20:33 +0100, Holly in France
wrote:

Nothing to do with dyes at all, but seeing your post has reminded me -
what
did you do about your wool/natural insulation in the end?

I decided that at market rates ecofriendly at eight times the price is
too expensive for me

See if there's a local sheep-shearing competition near you coming up (our
local pub has one end June) and buy the fleeces from there as they'll only
be suitable for insulation. You'll have to clean them up yourself of course
:-(

"Anna Kettle" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 May 2005 11:24:08 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:

I was thinking particularly about alkanet, which is fat soluble and the
fat
was added to the mixture. It doesn't need a mordant in that application.

Madder might have been used, I'll see if I can find anything about it but
I
thought you'd have been the expert :-)

No but I'd like to be

Well, like it or not, you are round here ... and well respected for it among
those who understand.

Mary

Anna


~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642

"Mike" wrote in message
...

"Anna Kettle" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 May 2005 12:20:33 +0100, Holly in France
wrote:

Nothing to do with dyes at all, but seeing your post has reminded me -
what
did you do about your wool/natural insulation in the end?

I decided that at market rates ecofriendly at eight times the price is
too expensive for me

See if there's a local sheep-shearing competition near you coming up (our
local pub has one end June) and buy the fleeces from there as they'll only
be suitable for insulation. You'll have to clean them up yourself of
course

Well, they need more than the cleaning which is possible in a domestic
situation.

And even if they weren't - have you ever washed a fleece? Many more than one
fleece would be needed too.

A daughter (a sheep farmer) wants to insulate her restored house with fleece
but she's not going to be able to use her own without professional
treatment.

Such a pity :-(

Mary

Mary Fisher wrote:

A daughter (a sheep farmer) wants to insulate her restored house with fleece
but she's not going to be able to use her own without professional
treatment.

What sort of treatment is necessary?

Sheila

"S Viemeister" wrote in message
...
Mary Fisher wrote:

A daughter (a sheep farmer) wants to insulate her restored house with
fleece
but she's not going to be able to use her own without professional
treatment.

What sort of treatment is necessary?

Apart from obvious cleaning I think vermin protection (especially moth) is
done.

I can look it up if you're interested.

Mary

Sheila

Mary Fisher wrote:

"S Viemeister" wrote
What sort of treatment is necessary?

Apart from obvious cleaning I think vermin protection (especially moth) is
done.

I can look it up if you're interested.

Yes, please, if it's not too much trouble.

Sheila

On Mon, 23 May 2005 11:24:08 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:

I was thinking particularly about alkanet, which is fat soluble and the fat
was added to the mixture. It doesn't need a mordant in that application.

Do you have any experience with alkanet ? My experiments with it were
attractive, but so fugitive that I practically invented photography.

"S Viemeister" wrote in message
...
Mary Fisher wrote:

"S Viemeister" wrote
What sort of treatment is necessary?

Apart from obvious cleaning I think vermin protection (especially moth)
is
done.

I can look it up if you're interested.

Yes, please, if it's not too much trouble.

It's not the trouble, it's the remembering a0 to do it and b) where to look
for it :-)

Nag.

That's not an insult, it's an order:-)

Mary



Sheila

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 May 2005 11:24:08 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:

I was thinking particularly about alkanet, which is fat soluble and the
fat
was added to the mixture. It doesn't need a mordant in that application.

Do you have any experience with alkanet ? My experiments with it were
attractive, but so fugitive that I practically invented photography.

LOL!

In colouring oils and wax for making cosmetics, yes. That's all.

Others have used it in other applications with success but it was some time
ago that I discussed it and watched demonstrations that I can't give
details.

Mary

"S Viemeister" wrote in message
...
Mary Fisher wrote:

"S Viemeister" wrote
What sort of treatment is necessary?

Apart from obvious cleaning I think vermin protection (especially moth)
is
done.

I can look it up if you're interested.

Yes, please, if it's not too much trouble.

Sheila

To date I find that it's protected against moth and other insect damage to
an international standard, without using nasties. I can't tell you any more
than that at the moment but I do know that if fleece - even washed - isn't
treated it's attacked by moth. Sometimes prepared, spun and moth guarded
wool yarn is :-(

It's my main concern about using wool as an insulation although I'd risk it
if we needed it. There wouldn't be any point in yanking out what we have
though.

Mary

"Mary Fisher" wrote in
. net:

Blackberry, as far as I know, is very fugitive. Unless you collect
them in your shirt of course when they stain for ever G

But, in our water, blackberry dyes cotton a pale greenish colour.

--
Rod

"Mary Fisher" wrote in message
. net...

Nothing to do with dyes at all, but seeing your post has reminded me -
what
did you do about your wool/natural insulation in the end?

I decided that at market rates ecofriendly at eight times the price is
too expensive for me

See if there's a local sheep-shearing competition near you coming up
(our
local pub has one end June) and buy the fleeces from there as they'll
only
be suitable for insulation. You'll have to clean them up yourself of
course

Well, they need more than the cleaning which is possible in a domestic
situation.

And even if they weren't - have you ever washed a fleece?

Only when still on the sheep :-)


Many more than one fleece would be needed too.

Yep - which is why I thought I'd put a glum smiley after the sentence.


A daughter (a sheep farmer) wants to insulate her restored house with
fleece
but she's not going to be able to use her own without professional
treatment.

If she's got a sheep dip tank then you can get the chemicals to preserve the
fleece. It needs a lot of washing and all the other residents removing,
then some form of sealing I believe.

Mary Fisher wrote:

"S Viemeister" wrote in message
...
Mary Fisher wrote:

"S Viemeister" wrote
What sort of treatment is necessary?

Apart from obvious cleaning I think vermin protection (especially moth)
is
done.

I can look it up if you're interested.

Yes, please, if it's not too much trouble.

It's not the trouble, it's the remembering a0 to do it and b) where to look
for it :-)

Nag.

That's not an insult, it's an order:-)

Yes, ma'am!

(nagnagnag)

Sheila