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#82
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Easiest way to enlarge an electrical knockout?
On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 14:03:09 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote: On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 4:50:28 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband wrote: I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate the size of my power cable. My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole? Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big. I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout punches? Thanks, Anthony They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is. I've used them, and they work well. Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size. Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes awhile, but it works. I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help. -Cameron Ross IDK, I've never seen one. I guess if the number of wires and sizes allow it, it may be code compliant, but 99% of the time when you're running 3/4 it's because you need 3/4 not 1/2". If code calls for 3/4, you can't reduce it to 1/2 going into the box. There is a different rule for "nipples". It is 60% instead of 40% Chapter 9 note 4 "(4) Where conduit or tubing nipples having a maximum length not to exceed 600 mm (24 in.) are installed between boxes, cabinets, and similar enclosures, the nipples shall be permitted to be filled to 60 percent of their total cross-sectional area, and 310.15(B)(3)(a) adjustment factors need not apply to this condition." They abuse the **** out of this in connectors. Have you ever looked at a 90 degree Carflex connector? You can put nine #12s in 1/2" Carflex but you will have a helluva time getting more than 4 or 5 through that connector and you may need to take it off of the conduit to do it. (that alone is a code violation) |
#83
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Easiest way to enlarge an electrical knockout?
On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 15:14:58 -0700 (PDT),
wrote: On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 2:51:30 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 13:50:24 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband wrote: I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate the size of my power cable. My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole? Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big. I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout punches? Thanks, Anthony They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is. I've used them, and they work well. Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size. Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes awhile, but it works. I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help. -Cameron Ross What kind of conduit? EMT, FMC, Carflex (plastic)? The OP was talking about a "cable". I would try Home Depot, they have a pretty good selection. If not a real electrical supply can help you out. Just be sure you know what you want because these guys get pretty impatient with home owners. Say something like "I need a FNC connector with a 1/2 inch KO entry" and they will usually help you. trade nicknames EMT is thin wall metal conduit FMC is Flexible Metal Conduit. (BX/MC looking stuff but the trade size of conduit). "Carflex" is the gray PVC flex conduit. (LNFC) "Smurf" is (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing ENT) and usually blue, hence the name with a corrugated surface. It is very unlikely home owners deal with IMC or RMC, (threaded galvanized conduit that looks like old time water or gas pipe) We are supplying EMT which needs to be 3/4" Trade Size. We are running it to a custom night light back box provision (Per spec the box only has one 1/2" KO). Trying to find a connector as we do not have access to the electrical box to punch it ourselves. and thank you I will look into some other electrical supply shops for assistance. Thanks again! I suppose if you have no luck you could put a 1/2" chase nipple in the box, put a 1/2-3/4" reducing bushing on that and use a 3/4 " threaded coupler to screw your EMT connector in but I know that connector was made at some time because I have one. |
#84
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Easiest way to enlarge an electrical knockout?
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 24 Jun 2019 15:14:58 -0700 (PDT),
wrote: On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 2:51:30 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 13:50:24 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband wrote: I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate the size of my power cable. My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole? Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big. I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout punches? Thanks, Anthony They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is. I've used them, and they work well. Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size. Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes awhile, but it works. I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help. -Cameron Ross What kind of conduit? EMT, FMC, Carflex (plastic)? The OP was talking about a "cable". I would try Home Depot, they have a pretty good selection. If not a real electrical supply can help you out. Just be sure you know what you want because these guys get pretty impatient with home owners. Say something like "I need a FNC connector with a 1/2 inch KO entry" and they will usually help you. trade nicknames EMT is thin wall metal conduit FMC is Flexible Metal Conduit. (BX/MC looking stuff but the trade size of conduit). "Carflex" is the gray PVC flex conduit. (LNFC) "Smurf" is (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing ENT) and usually blue, hence the name with a corrugated surface. It is very unlikely home owners deal with IMC or RMC, (threaded galvanized conduit that looks like old time water or gas pipe) We are supplying EMT which needs to be 3/4" Trade Size. We are running it to a custom night light back box provision (Per spec the box only has one 1/2" KO). Trying to find a connector as we do not have access to the electrical box to punch it ourselves. You must mean you don't have access to the back of it??? Even that, how do you plan to connect the conduit if you don't have access? and thank you I will look into some other electrical supply shops for assistance. Thanks again! I have a reamer that would probably do what you want, but when I couldn't find it and I looked for one for sale, I coudlnt' find one. I find that sort of amazing. I don't remember where I bought it, but maybe a yard sale. I'm sure I didn't pay more than $10 for something I might never use, and didn't use for 20 years. It's short and stubby, with a yellowing uneven clear vinyl cover on the handle. I used it recently to put more cigarrette ligters in my car, because the hole saws were either too small or too big, so I went with too small and reamed the hole bigger. Aluminum is harder than plastic, but not that much. I have this one too. This one is easy to find. https://www.zoro.com/general-reamer-...Av4DE ALw_wcB Lots of reamers but no big ones on the first page https://www.amazon.com/Hand-Reamers/...node=256298011 https://www.amazon.com/s?rh=n%3A1631...256298011_pg_2 https://www.amazon.com/Champion-SA80...strial&sr=1-47 this goes up to 1 3/8" but unfortuantely it's $120. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EOD2H3Q...il_aax_0?psc=1 Only $49 for 11/16. For some reason 3/4 is $69 Other sizes are priced in between. Designed for portable pneumatic drills but I'm sure could be used by hand. I didn't know mine was so valuable. I'll have to add a line to my will. |
#85
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Easiest way to enlarge an electrical knockout?
On Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 11:01:26 PM UTC-7, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 24 Jun 2019 15:14:58 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 2:51:30 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 13:50:24 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband wrote: I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate the size of my power cable. My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole? Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big. I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout punches? Thanks, Anthony They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is. I've used them, and they work well. Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size. Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes awhile, but it works. I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help. -Cameron Ross What kind of conduit? EMT, FMC, Carflex (plastic)? The OP was talking about a "cable". I would try Home Depot, they have a pretty good selection. If not a real electrical supply can help you out. Just be sure you know what you want because these guys get pretty impatient with home owners. Say something like "I need a FNC connector with a 1/2 inch KO entry" and they will usually help you. trade nicknames EMT is thin wall metal conduit FMC is Flexible Metal Conduit. (BX/MC looking stuff but the trade size of conduit). "Carflex" is the gray PVC flex conduit. (LNFC) "Smurf" is (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing ENT) and usually blue, hence the name with a corrugated surface. It is very unlikely home owners deal with IMC or RMC, (threaded galvanized conduit that looks like old time water or gas pipe) We are supplying EMT which needs to be 3/4" Trade Size. We are running it to a custom night light back box provision (Per spec the box only has one 1/2" KO). Trying to find a connector as we do not have access to the electrical box to punch it ourselves. You must mean you don't have access to the back of it??? Even that, how do you plan to connect the conduit if you don't have access? and thank you I will look into some other electrical supply shops for assistance. Thanks again! I have a reamer that would probably do what you want, but when I couldn't find it and I looked for one for sale, I coudlnt' find one. I find that sort of amazing. I don't remember where I bought it, but maybe a yard sale. I'm sure I didn't pay more than $10 for something I might never use, and didn't use for 20 years. It's short and stubby, with a yellowing uneven clear vinyl cover on the handle. I used it recently to put more cigarrette ligters in my car, because the hole saws were either too small or too big, so I went with too small and reamed the hole bigger. Aluminum is harder than plastic, but not that much. I have this one too. This one is easy to find. https://www.zoro.com/general-reamer-...Av4DE ALw_wcB Lots of reamers but no big ones on the first page https://www.amazon.com/Hand-Reamers/...node=256298011 https://www.amazon.com/s?rh=n%3A1631...256298011_pg_2 https://www.amazon.com/Champion-SA80...strial&sr=1-47 this goes up to 1 3/8" but unfortuantely it's $120. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EOD2H3Q...il_aax_0?psc=1 Only $49 for 11/16. For some reason 3/4 is $69 Other sizes are priced in between. Designed for portable pneumatic drills but I'm sure could be used by hand. I didn't know mine was so valuable. I'll have to add a line to my will. Thanks for the assistance everyone! Using the 4x4 with 1/2"x3/4" conduit is a good idea except I think we would have a code violation if that box is then not accessible within the wall. That reamer would be good if we could modify it ourselves, night light box is die cast steel. I am not sure if we can get the reduction bushing and coupler to work as our stock EMT Conduit is thin wall non threaded. I appreciate the advice and links and have reached out to the contractor installing the Night Light and have informed them they need to use a box with 3/4" KO's as with further investigation it looks like the specs gotten from Tedicco on the backbox for the night light has that as an option. We would be out of code if we tried making shortcuts otherwise. Thanks again have learned a lot from the very in-depth information. Great group and Apologies for jumping on this group thread without a proper invitation. Cheers! -Cameron |
#86
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Easiest way to enlarge an electrical knockout?
On Thu, 27 Jun 2019 13:36:19 -0700 (PDT),
wrote: I am not sure if we can get the reduction bushing and coupler to work as our stock EMT Conduit is thin wall non threaded. You would screw a 3/4" EMT connector into the 3/4" coupler use a bushing to get it down to 1/2" and then use a 1/2"chase nipple to get into the box.. |
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