I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

On 2/21/14 7:46 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

You might find a set of used KO punches on Ebay for a decent
price. I knew a guy years ago who used a hole saw. Metal shavings
weren't a problem for his work. It wasn't a super neat job either. The
saw would wander a bit if I recall correctly.

On 2/21/2014 7:46 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical
knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit
to accomodate the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those
things are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task
like this. I'm also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an
existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at
the home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings
falling inside the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making
the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the
knockout punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

Use a Sharpie marker to mark the diameter of your 3/4" hole around your
1/2" KO. If you have an automatic center punch, use it to pop little
pits around the hole a bit more than 1/8" apart. Use your drill with a
1/8" bit and drill through wherever you have the small pits which keep
the drill bit from sliding away from where you want to drill through.
You can do it without an automatic center punch if you put moderate
pressure on the drill and start very slowly until you're sure the bit
won't slide. After you've drilled all your closely spaced holes, you can
go up another bit size to remove more metal. You can use diagonal wire
cutters and pliers to cut out and break off the little tags of metal
left around the circumference. You can finish up with a round or half
round file if you want to make it prettier. An automatic center punch
and half round file can be purchased from Harbor Freight for very little
money. It may cost more at Lowe's Depot but you will be surprised at all
the uses you will find for an automatic center punch. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...c+center+punch

http://preview.tinyurl.com/qc64pap

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...ile-96629.html

http://preview.tinyurl.com/ornsdm3

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...ile-96628.html

http://preview.tinyurl.com/njeasyd

Harbor Freight also sells step drill bits.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...its-69088.html

http://preview.tinyurl.com/q5spon9

TDD

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 21:00:32 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 2/21/2014 7:46 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical
knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit
to accomodate the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those
things are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task
like this. I'm also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an
existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at
the home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings
falling inside the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making
the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the
knockout punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

Use a Sharpie marker to mark the diameter of your 3/4" hole around your
1/2" KO. If you have an automatic center punch, use it to pop little
pits around the hole a bit more than 1/8" apart. Use your drill with a
1/8" bit and drill through wherever you have the small pits which keep
the drill bit from sliding away from where you want to drill through.
You can do it without an automatic center punch if you put moderate
pressure on the drill and start very slowly until you're sure the bit
won't slide. After you've drilled all your closely spaced holes, you can
go up another bit size to remove more metal. You can use diagonal wire
cutters and pliers to cut out and break off the little tags of metal
left around the circumference. You can finish up with a round or half
round file if you want to make it prettier. An automatic center punch
and half round file can be purchased from Harbor Freight for very little
money. It may cost more at Lowe's Depot but you will be surprised at all
the uses you will find for an automatic center punch. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...c+center+punch

http://preview.tinyurl.com/qc64pap

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...ile-96629.html

http://preview.tinyurl.com/ornsdm3

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...ile-96628.html

http://preview.tinyurl.com/njeasyd

Harbor Freight also sells step drill bits.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...its-69088.html

http://preview.tinyurl.com/q5spon9

TDD

Find an old radio hobbyist or an electrician with a chassis punch and
buy him a beer.

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 22:19:44 -0500, wrote:

Find an old radio hobbyist or an electrician with a chassis punch and
buy him a beer.

Will a 3/4" punch fit behind the 1/2" knockout on a water heater
enclosure? Seems you need access from both sides for it to work, like
say, in an electrical panel.

http://zenstoves.net/Supplies/KnockoutPunch.jpg

On 2/21/2014 10:13 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 22:19:44 -0500, wrote:

Find an old radio hobbyist or an electrician with a chassis punch
and buy him a beer.

Will a 3/4" punch fit behind the 1/2" knockout on a water heater
enclosure? Seems you need access from both sides for it to work,
like say, in an electrical panel.

http://zenstoves.net/Supplies/KnockoutPunch.jpg

I have a set of KO punches and a few large ones of the most common
sizes. I also have step bits and hole saws but when they're not
available or before I obtained them, I had to drill a circle of small
holes then remove the excess metal. ^_^

TDD

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 23:09:04 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 2/21/2014 10:13 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 22:19:44 -0500, wrote:

Find an old radio hobbyist or an electrician with a chassis punch
and buy him a beer.

Will a 3/4" punch fit behind the 1/2" knockout on a water heater
enclosure? Seems you need access from both sides for it to work,
like say, in an electrical panel.

http://zenstoves.net/Supplies/KnockoutPunch.jpg

I have a set of KO punches and a few large ones of the most common
sizes. I also have step bits and hole saws but when they're not
available or before I obtained them, I had to drill a circle of small
holes then remove the excess metal. ^_^

TDD

Just though about my RotoZip Kit, with spiral bits. It would make easy
work to enlarge the hole.

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 23:09:04 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 2/21/2014 10:13 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 22:19:44 -0500, wrote:

Find an old radio hobbyist or an electrician with a chassis punch
and buy him a beer.

Will a 3/4" punch fit behind the 1/2" knockout on a water heater
enclosure? Seems you need access from both sides for it to work,
like say, in an electrical panel.

http://zenstoves.net/Supplies/KnockoutPunch.jpg

I have a set of KO punches and a few large ones of the most common
sizes. I also have step bits and hole saws but when they're not
available or before I obtained them, I had to drill a circle of small
holes then remove the excess metal. ^_^

TDD
Or just use a die grinder - either a stone or a burr.

Oren,

Will a 3/4" punch fit behind the 1/2" knockout on a water heater
enclosure? Seems you need access from both sides for it to work, like
say, in an electrical panel.

I have a Fahrenheat FUH54 space heater, not a water heater. I have full
access to both sides of the opening.

I just wonder how well a punch will work only having an extra 1/8" on each
side of the existing opening.

Anthony

On 2/22/2014 1:10 AM, HerHusband wrote:
Oren,

Will a 3/4" punch fit behind the 1/2" knockout on a water heater
enclosure? Seems you need access from both sides for it to work, like
say, in an electrical panel.

I have a Fahrenheat FUH54 space heater, not a water heater. I have full
access to both sides of the opening.

I just wonder how well a punch will work only having an extra 1/8" on each
side of the existing opening.


If you have a good rental place it should have KO punches.

Change the wiring method to something with a 1/2" connector?

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 20:13:38 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 22:19:44 -0500, wrote:

Find an old radio hobbyist or an electrician with a chassis punch and
buy him a beer.

Will a 3/4" punch fit behind the 1/2" knockout on a water heater
enclosure? Seems you need access from both sides for it to work, like
say, in an electrical panel.

http://zenstoves.net/Supplies/KnockoutPunch.jpg
The cover on the water heater enclosure is removeable. At least on
any I've worked on.. And I was not under the impression this was a
water heater, but I may have missed it.

On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 11:10:26 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 20:13:38 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 22:19:44 -0500, wrote:

Find an old radio hobbyist or an electrician with a chassis punch and
buy him a beer.

Will a 3/4" punch fit behind the 1/2" knockout on a water heater
enclosure? Seems you need access from both sides for it to work, like
say, in an electrical panel.

http://zenstoves.net/Supplies/KnockoutPunch.jpg
The cover on the water heater enclosure is removeable. At least on
any I've worked on.. And I was not under the impression this was a
water heater, but I may have missed it.

OP did say "heater". I read too much into it, thinking water heater.
Thanks.

The Daring Dufas posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On 2/21/2014 7:46 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical
knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit
to accomodate the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those
things are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task
like this. I'm also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an
existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at
the home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings
falling inside the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making
the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the
knockout punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

Use a Sharpie marker to mark the diameter of your 3/4" hole around your
1/2" KO. If you have an automatic center punch, use it to pop little
pits around the hole a bit more than 1/8" apart. Use your drill with a
1/8" bit and drill through wherever you have the small pits which keep
the drill bit from sliding away from where you want to drill through.
You can do it without an automatic center punch if you put moderate
pressure on the drill and start very slowly until you're sure the bit
won't slide. After you've drilled all your closely spaced holes, you can
go up another bit size to remove more metal. You can use diagonal wire
cutters and pliers to cut out and break off the little tags of metal
left around the circumference. You can finish up with a round or half
round file if you want to make it prettier. An automatic center punch
and half round file can be purchased from Harbor Freight for very little
money. It may cost more at Lowe's Depot but you will be surprised at all
the uses you will find for an automatic center punch. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...c+center+punch

http://preview.tinyurl.com/qc64pap

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...ile-96629.html

http://preview.tinyurl.com/ornsdm3

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...ile-96628.html

http://preview.tinyurl.com/njeasyd

Harbor Freight also sells step drill bits.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...its-69088.html

http://preview.tinyurl.com/q5spon9

TDD

DD you are so full of info that I wish I had 40 years ago.

--
Tekkie

On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

Fist make sure power is off, which sounds like it is, BUT....

Use a cheap bi--metal hole saw. Place a thin piece of wood over the
1/2" hole - cut through with the 3/4" bi-metal hole saw. The wood will
help to prevent the hole saw from walking by the drill bit in the
center.

http://owenbarrow.org/wp-admin/network/metal-hole-saw-bit-6617.jpg

YMMV

http://www.harborfreight.com/knockou...kit-91201.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/knockou...kit-91201.html

I also found that set with a little searching, but the reviews aren't very
promising. For nearly the same money, I can buy a genuine Greenlee punch on
Ebay.

Anthony

On 2/21/2014 9:13 PM, Bob_Villa wrote:

http://www.harborfreight.com/knockou...kit-91201.html

I don't think I ever paid attention to whether or not HF had KO punches
since I've had my Greenlee set for more than 30 years. D'oh! o_O

http://www.richmolnar.com/Sounds/Hom...%20%282%29.wav

TDD

On 2/21/2014 7:46 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

If you are near a big city I think it is real likely you can rent them.

On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll
probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a
large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While
you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good
chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is.
I've used them, and they work well.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you
probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old
electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my
younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes
for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size.
Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes
awhile, but it works.

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical
knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit
to accomodate the size of my power cable.

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first.

I thought about a reducer of some type last night before I went to bed. I'm
not sure if all four wires will fit through the 1/2" opening, I'll have to
test it out with the cutoff pieces I have left.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick

I have a dremel that would probably be faster, but again, I don't really
want any metal shavings falling inside the heater.

Thanks!

Anthony

On 2/22/2014 12:10 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical
knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4"
conduit to accomodate the size of my power cable.

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the
end that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first.

I thought about a reducer of some type last night before I went to
bed. I'm not sure if all four wires will fit through the 1/2"
opening, I'll have to test it out with the cutoff pieces I have
left.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick

I have a dremel that would probably be faster, but again, I don't
really want any metal shavings falling inside the heater.

Thanks!

Anthony

Duck tape, cardboard, vacuum cleaner and magnet. ^_^

TDD

On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll
probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a
large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While
you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good
chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is.
I've used them, and they work well.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you
probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old
electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my
younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes
for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size.
Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes
awhile, but it works.

I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help.
-Cameron Ross

On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 4:50:28 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll
probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a
large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While
you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good
chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is.
I've used them, and they work well.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you
probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old
electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my
younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes
for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size.
Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes
awhile, but it works.

I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help.
-Cameron Ross

IDK, I've never seen one. I guess if the number of wires and sizes allow
it, it may be code compliant, but 99% of the time when you're running 3/4
it's because you need 3/4 not 1/2". If code calls for 3/4, you can't
reduce it to 1/2 going into the box.

On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 14:03:09 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 4:50:28 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll
probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a
large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While
you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good
chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is.
I've used them, and they work well.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you
probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old
electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my
younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes
for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size.
Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes
awhile, but it works.

I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help.
-Cameron Ross

IDK, I've never seen one. I guess if the number of wires and sizes allow
it, it may be code compliant, but 99% of the time when you're running 3/4
it's because you need 3/4 not 1/2". If code calls for 3/4, you can't
reduce it to 1/2 going into the box.


There is a different rule for "nipples". It is 60% instead of 40%
Chapter 9 note 4
"(4) Where conduit or tubing nipples having a maximum
length not to exceed 600 mm (24 in.) are installed
between boxes, cabinets, and similar enclosures, the
nipples shall be permitted to be filled to 60 percent of
their total cross-sectional area, and 310.15(B)(3)(a)
adjustment factors need not apply to this condition."

They abuse the **** out of this in connectors.
Have you ever looked at a 90 degree Carflex connector?
You can put nine #12s in 1/2" Carflex but you will have a helluva time
getting more than 4 or 5 through that connector and you may need to
take it off of the conduit to do it. (that alone is a code violation)

On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 13:50:24 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll
probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a
large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While
you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good
chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is.
I've used them, and they work well.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you
probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old
electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my
younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes
for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size.
Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes
awhile, but it works.

I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help.
-Cameron Ross

What kind of conduit? EMT, FMC, Carflex (plastic)?
The OP was talking about a "cable".

I would try Home Depot, they have a pretty good selection. If not a
real electrical supply can help you out. Just be sure you know what
you want because these guys get pretty impatient with home owners.
Say something like "I need a FNC connector with a 1/2 inch KO entry"
and they will usually help you.
trade nicknames
EMT is thin wall metal conduit
FMC is Flexible Metal Conduit. (BX/MC looking stuff but the trade size
of conduit).
"Carflex" is the gray PVC flex conduit. (LNFC)
"Smurf" is (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing ENT) and usually blue, hence
the name with a corrugated surface.
It is very unlikely home owners deal with IMC or RMC, (threaded
galvanized conduit that looks like old time water or gas pipe)

On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 2:51:30 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 13:50:24 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll
probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a
large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While
you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good
chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is.
I've used them, and they work well.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you
probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old
electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my
younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes
for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size.
Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes
awhile, but it works.

I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help.
-Cameron Ross

What kind of conduit? EMT, FMC, Carflex (plastic)?
The OP was talking about a "cable".

I would try Home Depot, they have a pretty good selection. If not a
real electrical supply can help you out. Just be sure you know what
you want because these guys get pretty impatient with home owners.
Say something like "I need a FNC connector with a 1/2 inch KO entry"
and they will usually help you.
trade nicknames
EMT is thin wall metal conduit
FMC is Flexible Metal Conduit. (BX/MC looking stuff but the trade size
of conduit).
"Carflex" is the gray PVC flex conduit. (LNFC)
"Smurf" is (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing ENT) and usually blue, hence
the name with a corrugated surface.
It is very unlikely home owners deal with IMC or RMC, (threaded
galvanized conduit that looks like old time water or gas pipe)

We are supplying EMT which needs to be 3/4" Trade Size. We are running it to a custom night light back box provision (Per spec the box only has one 1/2" KO). Trying to find a connector as we do not have access to the electrical box to punch it ourselves. and thank you I will look into some other electrical supply shops for assistance. Thanks again!

On 6/24/19 6:14 PM, wrote:
On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 2:51:30 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 13:50:24 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll
probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a
large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While
you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good
chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is.
I've used them, and they work well.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you
probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old
electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my
younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes
for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size.
Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes
awhile, but it works.

I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help.
-Cameron Ross

What kind of conduit? EMT, FMC, Carflex (plastic)?
The OP was talking about a "cable".

I would try Home Depot, they have a pretty good selection. If not a
real electrical supply can help you out. Just be sure you know what
you want because these guys get pretty impatient with home owners.
Say something like "I need a FNC connector with a 1/2 inch KO entry"
and they will usually help you.
trade nicknames
EMT is thin wall metal conduit
FMC is Flexible Metal Conduit. (BX/MC looking stuff but the trade size
of conduit).
"Carflex" is the gray PVC flex conduit. (LNFC)
"Smurf" is (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing ENT) and usually blue, hence
the name with a corrugated surface.
It is very unlikely home owners deal with IMC or RMC, (threaded
galvanized conduit that looks like old time water or gas pipe)

We are supplying EMT which needs to be 3/4" Trade Size. We are running it to a custom night light back box provision (Per spec the box only has one 1/2" KO). Trying to find a connector as we do not have access to the electrical box to punch it ourselves. and thank you I will look into some other electrical supply shops for assistance. Thanks again!



If you have room, perhaps attaching a box like this that has both 1/2 &
3/4 KOs could work. Use a nipple and locknuts on the 1/2 KO (or even a
length of EMT to best position the box).

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...it/boxes/30331

or https://tinyurl.com/y6oolmny

Let us know what finally works.

On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 15:14:58 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 2:51:30 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 13:50:24 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll
probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a
large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While
you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good
chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is.
I've used them, and they work well.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you
probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old
electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my
younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes
for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size.
Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes
awhile, but it works.

I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help.
-Cameron Ross

What kind of conduit? EMT, FMC, Carflex (plastic)?
The OP was talking about a "cable".

I would try Home Depot, they have a pretty good selection. If not a
real electrical supply can help you out. Just be sure you know what
you want because these guys get pretty impatient with home owners.
Say something like "I need a FNC connector with a 1/2 inch KO entry"
and they will usually help you.
trade nicknames
EMT is thin wall metal conduit
FMC is Flexible Metal Conduit. (BX/MC looking stuff but the trade size
of conduit).
"Carflex" is the gray PVC flex conduit. (LNFC)
"Smurf" is (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing ENT) and usually blue, hence
the name with a corrugated surface.
It is very unlikely home owners deal with IMC or RMC, (threaded
galvanized conduit that looks like old time water or gas pipe)

We are supplying EMT which needs to be 3/4" Trade Size. We are running it to a custom night light back box provision (Per spec the box only has one 1/2" KO). Trying to find a connector as we do not have access to the electrical box to punch it ourselves. and thank you I will look into some other electrical supply shops for assistance. Thanks again!

I suppose if you have no luck you could put a 1/2" chase nipple in the
box, put a 1/2-3/4" reducing bushing on that and use a 3/4 " threaded
coupler to screw your EMT connector in but I know that connector was
made at some time because I have one.

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 24 Jun 2019 15:14:58 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 2:51:30 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 13:50:24 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, February 22, 2014 at 12:38:04 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Feb 2014 01:46:34 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?

Thanks,

Anthony

They do sell conduit fittings that slip over 3/4" conduit, yet the end
that goes in the box is 1/2". I'd try one of them first. You'll
probably have to go to an electrical supply store, unless you have a
large hardware store nearby, like an ACE Hardware super store. While
you probably do need 3/4" conduit for thicker wires, there is a good
chance they will slip thru that last half inch where that fitting is.
I've used them, and they work well.

Your other option is slow, but a round file will do the trick, and you
probably got one of them. I've used that method on the old
electronics, like the old tube type tv set chassis. Back in my
younger days, I built or repaired that stuff, and I had to make holes
for tube sockets, or other parts, which were often an oddball size.
Those old chassis were probably the same or thicker metal. It takes
awhile, but it works.

I realize this is 5 years old, but would you happen to have a link to where I can find this conduit fitting that slips over a 3/4" conduit and connects to a 1/2" KO? Thank you for your help.
-Cameron Ross

What kind of conduit? EMT, FMC, Carflex (plastic)?
The OP was talking about a "cable".

I would try Home Depot, they have a pretty good selection. If not a
real electrical supply can help you out. Just be sure you know what
you want because these guys get pretty impatient with home owners.
Say something like "I need a FNC connector with a 1/2 inch KO entry"
and they will usually help you.
trade nicknames
EMT is thin wall metal conduit
FMC is Flexible Metal Conduit. (BX/MC looking stuff but the trade size
of conduit).
"Carflex" is the gray PVC flex conduit. (LNFC)
"Smurf" is (Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing ENT) and usually blue, hence
the name with a corrugated surface.
It is very unlikely home owners deal with IMC or RMC, (threaded
galvanized conduit that looks like old time water or gas pipe)

We are supplying EMT which needs to be 3/4" Trade Size. We are running it to a custom night light back box provision (Per spec the box only has one 1/2" KO). Trying to find a connector as we do not have access to the electrical box to punch it ourselves.

You must mean you don't have access to the back of it??? Even that, how
do you plan to connect the conduit if you don't have access?

and thank you I will look into some other electrical supply shops for assistance. Thanks again!

I have a reamer that would probably do what you want, but when I
couldn't find it and I looked for one for sale, I coudlnt' find one.
I find that sort of amazing.

I don't remember where I bought it, but maybe a yard sale. I'm sure I
didn't pay more than $10 for something I might never use, and didn't use
for 20 years.

It's short and stubby, with a yellowing uneven clear vinyl cover on the
handle.

I used it recently to put more cigarrette ligters in my car, because the
hole saws were either too small or too big, so I went with too small and
reamed the hole bigger. Aluminum is harder than plastic, but not that
much.

I have this one too. This one is easy to find.
https://www.zoro.com/general-reamer-...Av4DE ALw_wcB

Lots of reamers but no big ones on the first page
https://www.amazon.com/Hand-Reamers/...node=256298011

https://www.amazon.com/s?rh=n%3A1631...256298011_pg_2


https://www.amazon.com/Champion-SA80...strial&sr=1-47
this goes up to 1 3/8" but unfortuantely it's $120.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EOD2H3Q...il_aax_0?psc=1
Only $49 for 11/16. For some reason 3/4 is $69 Other sizes are
priced in between. Designed for portable pneumatic drills but I'm sure
could be used by hand.

I didn't know mine was so valuable. I'll have to add a line to my will.

will the box be overfilled? might be easier and more code compliant to just replace the box

On 02/22/2014 08:15 AM, bob haller wrote:
will the box be overfilled? might be easier and more code compliant to just replace the box




YEP, this is exactly what to do.

On Saturday, February 22, 2014 11:03:51 AM UTC-5, philo* wrote:
On 02/22/2014 08:15 AM, bob haller wrote:

will the box be overfilled? might be easier and more code compliant to just replace the box









YEP, this is exactly what to do.

Except that from what is described, there is no
box to replace. The NO is on a *heater* he's trying
to connect. I suspect he has a *cord* that's too big.
An option might be to install a box and transition from
the cord to 1/2" liquidtight, etc that will fit.

On 02/22/2014 10:32 AM, wrote:
On Saturday, February 22, 2014 11:03:51 AM UTC-5, philo wrote:
On 02/22/2014 08:15 AM, bob haller wrote:

will the box be overfilled? might be easier and more code compliant to just replace the box









YEP, this is exactly what to do.

Except that from what is described, there is no
box to replace. The NO is on a *heater* he's trying
to connect. I suspect he has a *cord* that's too big.
An option might be to install a box and transition from
the cord to 1/2" liquidtight, etc that will fit.




Good point and now that I think of it the answer by "Caulking-Gunn"
might actually be the best...to simply use a transitional fitting.

Half inch hole, 3/4" conduit such things exist and would make it a
"no-mod" job.

On 02/21/2014 08:46 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this. I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?


Yes, the easiest way is a knockout punch.
You, however, seem to be looking for the cheapest way. That would be a round file.

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical knockouts
are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit to accomodate
the size of my power cable.

My first thought was to use a knockout punch, but good golly those things
are expensive. I don't want to spend $60 for a one time task like this.
I'm
also curious if a punch would work for enlarging an existing hole?

Another option is a step-drill, but those are almost as expensive at the
home centers. I'm also a little worried about metal shavings falling
inside
the heater, or overshooting the size I need and making the hole too big.

I haven't had time to check, but I wonder if anyone rents the knockout
punches?


*I seem to recall a tip from one of the trade magazines. Try clamping a
piece of wood behind the hole and use an 1 1/8" hole saw to enlarge it. I
haven't tried this. Please post the results if you do.

You might find a rental place that has knockout punches.

John,

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical
knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit
to accomodate the size of my power cable.

Please post the results.

After considering multiple options, I remembered I had a metal nibbler in
my tool chest. I wasn't sure if it would handle the sheet metal on the
heater, but it worked fine.

You can see the full process with pictures at:

http://www.watsondiy.com/heater.htm

Thanks everyone!

Anthony Watson
Mountain Software
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

HerHusband wrote:
John,

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical
knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4" conduit
to accomodate the size of my power cable.

Please post the results.

After considering multiple options, I remembered I had a metal nibbler in
my tool chest. I wasn't sure if it would handle the sheet metal on the
heater, but it worked fine.

You can see the full process with pictures at:

http://www.watsondiy.com/heater.htm

Thanks everyone!

Anthony Watson
Mountain Software
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

One thing obvious from a couple of your pictures:

You have too many clamps.

Wait...that's not possible! ;-)

One thing obvious from a couple of your pictures:
You have too many clamps.
Wait...that's not possible! ;-)

I only have 8 pipe clamps (four feet long),
12 Jet parallel bar clamps (two feet long),
and 12 small bar clamps (one foot long).

It sounds like a lot, but I frequently run out of clamps when gluing up
panels, cabinet doors, or similar projects. I usually have to do my glueups
in stages over two or three days.

I started out with the pipe clamps, and still use them for larger projects.
They also came in handy for construction projects when I needed to pull
walls into alignment or something.

These days I prefer to use the Jet clamps when I can.

I don't use the small bar clamps as often, but when I need them they're
great to have. They have been most useful when gluing up curved objects
like bent wood laminations.

I would love to have more clamps, but I don't know where I would keep them.


Ironically, I still don't have a band clamp. I need to get one of those.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

HerHusband wrote:
One thing obvious from a couple of your pictures:
You have too many clamps.
Wait...that's not possible! ;-)
I only have 8 pipe clamps (four feet long),

Get some pipe connectors (they are about a buck a piece) and
you can have even longer pipe clamps. Great for decks, workbenches, ...
12 Jet parallel bar clamps (two feet long),
and 12 small bar clamps (one foot long).

It sounds like a lot, but I frequently run out of clamps when gluing up
panels, cabinet doors, or similar projects. I usually have to do my glueups
in stages over two or three days.

I started out with the pipe clamps, and still use them for larger projects.
They also came in handy for construction projects when I needed to pull
walls into alignment or something.

These days I prefer to use the Jet clamps when I can.

I don't use the small bar clamps as often, but when I need them they're
great to have. They have been most useful when gluing up curved objects
like bent wood laminations.

I would love to have more clamps, but I don't know where I would keep them.


Ironically, I still don't have a band clamp. I need to get one of those.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On 2/23/2014 8:17 PM, HerHusband wrote:
John,

I just bought a new heater for my garage, but all the electrical
knockouts are sized for 1/2" conduit. I need a hole for 3/4"
conduit to accomodate the size of my power cable.

Please post the results.

After considering multiple options, I remembered I had a metal
nibbler in my tool chest. I wasn't sure if it would handle the sheet
metal on the heater, but it worked fine.

You can see the full process with pictures at:

http://www.watsondiy.com/heater.htm

Thanks everyone!

Anthony Watson Mountain Software www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Ya see there, you used the tools you had on hand. I have a small hand
nibbler too and I often use it to turn round holes into square ones. ^_^

TDD