I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

Hi,
There is such thing as Silicon dielectric paste.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
wrote:
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

Hi,
There is such thing as Silicon dielectric paste.

The silicon dielectric paste will not conduct electricity. It is for
keeping the moisture out of connections.

I have not tried it, but most auto parts places such as AutoZone should have
this.
VersaChem Sure Connect® - Bulb Grease
Part # 15319
Says it is good for bulbs and other electrical connections. I am not sure
if it actually conducts, or just lets the contacts wipe it off as you slide
them together.




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Ralph Mowery wrote:

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
wrote:
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

Hi,
There is such thing as Silicon dielectric paste.

The silicon dielectric paste will not conduct electricity. It is for
keeping the moisture out of connections.

I have not tried it, but most auto parts places such as AutoZone should have
this.
VersaChem Sure Connect® - Bulb Grease
Part # 15319
Says it is good for bulbs and other electrical connections. I am not sure
if it actually conducts, or just lets the contacts wipe it off as you slide
them together.




---
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http://www.avast.com

Hmm,
What do you think dielectric mean?
I used it all the time in my working days.
Regarding cleaning the pins you can find a pointied small brush.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
Hmm,
What do you think dielectric mean?
I used it all the time in my working days.
Regarding cleaning the pins you can find a pointied small brush.

Dielectric is used for AC circuits (mostly at RF). Often the grease is used
in RF connectors to keep water out.

As the circuit is an auto fog light, which most likely operates at DC, the
dielectric does not come into play.

Not sure what you think it means, but it does not mean water prof or
anything to do with water.




---
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wrote in message
...

I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

After you get it to work OK Slide a piece of proper sized shrink over it
and use heat gun to shrink. This is a permanent cure to keep moisture out.
There is also shrink tape available. WW

On 1/20/14, 8:03 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

Hi,
There is such thing as Silicon dielectric paste.

As a side note... it's good practice to avoid emery cloth on or around
any electrical equipment... (especially if commutators, slip rings,
brushes, high voltages, bearings/bushings or easily shorted circuitry
can become contaminated).

Microscopic emery particles (extremely hard, abrasive and electrically
conductive) tend to embed themselves into copper, brass and other soft
materials, and can really raise hell far as tracking & arcing go. Once
contaminated, removal by other than part replacement is usually not
practical or possible.

If abrasive papers must be used, sand paper such as non conductive
aluminum oxide should always get the nod.

http://www.polywater.com/sandpaper.asp

Even then grit removal is very important.

Erik

On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 12:30:47 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
Hmm,
What do you think dielectric mean?

di·e·lec·tric noun
1. a nonconducting substance; insulator.
2. a substance in which an electric field can be maintained with a
minimum loss of power.

I was somehow mixed up about this too.

I used it all the time in my working days.
Regarding cleaning the pins you can find a pointied small brush.

Dielectric is used for AC circuits (mostly at RF). Often the grease is used
in RF connectors to keep water out.

As the circuit is an auto fog light, which most likely operates at DC, the
dielectric does not come into play.

I wouldn't go that far. Dielectric grease has lots of uses. Spark
plugs are pulsating DC.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon...lectric_grease

Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down
when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical
connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of
lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.

A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections
associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to
the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto
the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the
rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming
stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high
temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature
range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because
the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on
such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the
advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might
cause rapid galvanic corrosion.

Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces
or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and
marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on
the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not
recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts
of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals
passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is
very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the
other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can
dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than
silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector
lubricants.

Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact
that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide
under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can
cause the contacts to prematurely fail. (British Telecom had this
problem in the 1970s when silicone Symel® sleeving was used in telephone
exchanges. Vapour from the sleeving migrated to relay contacts and the
resultant silicon-carbide caused intermittent connection.)


Not sure what you think it means, but it does not mean water prof or
anything to do with water.




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On Monday, January 20, 2014 11:16:12 AM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Tony Hwang" wrote in message

...

wrote:

application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent

corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.

Any products to recommend?



Hi,

There is such thing as Silicon dielectric paste.



The silicon dielectric paste will not conduct electricity. It is for

keeping the moisture out of connections.



That was my concern too, but googling a bit it seems the concept
here is that the contacts push the grease out of the way and make
a connection anyhow. The dielectric grease then keeps moisture,
salt, etc out of there. It must work because the companies making
it, Permatex, Loctite, etc say it's for this application.





I have not tried it, but most auto parts places such as AutoZone should have

this.

VersaChem Sure Connect® - Bulb Grease

Part # 15319

Says it is good for bulbs and other electrical connections. I am not sure

if it actually conducts, or just lets the contacts wipe it off as you slide

them together.



They don't say if it conducts, but I'll bet it's the same stuff,
dielectric and it won't conduct. If it did, you'd have problems
with the bulb grease winding up bridging between where you don't
want it to go. ie the sides of the bulb and the tip, and creating
a short.

I found I have a small packet of dielectric grease left from
changing spark plugs and I'm going to try it. It's also possible
something more is wrong, ie that where the wire in the fog light
housing connects to the connector is bad, but I can't get to that
part, as the backside is inside the plastic housing. Wiggling the
wires though on that side doesn't change anything. Only if I wiggle
the connector itself when it's joined.

On the subject of connectors, I hate those guys at BMW sooooo much.
I've never seen a car with so many different types of connectors.
And almost all of them, you could look at it for 5 mins and still
you can't figure what you need to push, pull, etc to make it disengage.
It's like they tried to put every possible kind of these in there that
they could find...... You can't even figure it out when you can look
at it right in front of you and many of them are in spots you can just
barely get to at all.

On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 11:16:12 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
wrote:
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

Hi,
There is such thing as Silicon dielectric paste.

The silicon dielectric paste will not conduct electricity. It is for
keeping the moisture out of connections.

I have not tried it, but most auto parts places such as AutoZone should have
this.
VersaChem Sure Connect® - Bulb Grease
Part # 15319
Says it is good for bulbs and other electrical connections. I am not sure
if it actually conducts, or just lets the contacts wipe it off as you slide
them together.




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
Think about it - if it conducts electricity it will short out
between the power pin and ground - so OBVIOUSLY it HAS to be
non-conductive.

On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 07:08:42 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything.

Not even if you disassemble it more than you want to?

I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

I don't know any names, but auto parts stores have this. A few years
ago, Pep Boys had a display right on the parts counter of 4 or 5 stacks
of small containers of various greases. One is the one you want, and t
he labels make it clear. If they don't have the tiny size, which is
probably big enough, they surey have the next size up. Bulb grease,
like Ralph says, but I agree with you. It doesn't have to go between a
bulb and a socket. It can surround the metal parts of a faulty
connector. Hmmm. Maybe the smallest size won't be enough, although I
think it will be.

On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 12:30:47 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
Hmm,
What do you think dielectric mean?
I used it all the time in my working days.
Regarding cleaning the pins you can find a pointied small brush.

Dielectric is used for AC circuits (mostly at RF). Often the grease is used
in RF connectors to keep water out.

As the circuit is an auto fog light, which most likely operates at DC, the
dielectric does not come into play.

Not sure what you think it means, but it does not mean water prof or
anything to do with water.




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
A dialectric is a "polarizable insulator" in "simple" terms.

On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?


Is the wire-to-contact a good connection? Probably is.

Possibilities for cleaning the contact include real small file (needle
file) or sharp surface (nail ground to be a chisel?).

Is there enough spring tension to keep the contacts together - bend a
contact?

If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

On Monday, January 20, 2014 10:08:42 AM UTC-5, wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector

between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly

corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector

makes it go on and off.



The way it's designed I can't really get at

it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical

contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also

with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of

application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent

corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.

Any products to recommend?

Deoxit to clean it - spray on; make/break contacts a few times to clean off.. Let dry then apply dielectric grease (available in tubes at your local auto parts store in the same section as the RTV etc. - sometimes called "tuneup grease" as it is often used in spark plug boots to keep them from sticking to the porcelain) and reconnect. Drive happy for another 10 years or so.

good luck

nate

On Monday, January 20, 2014 12:30:47 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Tony Hwang" wrote in message

...

Hmm,

What do you think dielectric mean?

I used it all the time in my working days.

Regarding cleaning the pins you can find a pointied small brush.



Dielectric is used for AC circuits (mostly at RF). Often the grease is used

in RF connectors to keep water out.



As the circuit is an auto fog light, which most likely operates at DC, the

dielectric does not come into play.



Not sure what you think it means, but it does not mean water prof or

anything to do with water.



Not by definition, no, but the dielectric grease sold in your FLAPS is silicone based and definitely waterproof. Works great for the OP's application.

nate

On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 16:12:24 -0600, bud-- wrote:

On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?


Is the wire-to-contact a good connection? Probably is.

Possibilities for cleaning the contact include real small file (needle
file) or sharp surface (nail ground to be a chisel?).

Is there enough spring tension to keep the contacts together - bend a
contact?

If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.
And that stuff didn't really conduct - it just made a highly
conductive connection. I used to use it on computer chips on socketed
motherboards. and "spendy" hardly described it!!!!!! A little went a
long way when diluted in alcohol and applied with a fine syringe, but
you still flinched when you wasted a drop!!

" wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

I actually have cramolin copper grease. Other than that, grease does not
conduct and can cause problems with low pressure. I've seen silicon grease
supplied with lamp kits before. Nor a grease, tweek, or stabilant 22 is
supposed to conduct. Is a light oily substance.

I've seen a lot of problems with cheap halogen lamp connections. Crimps
often fail on those cheap units.

Greg

Erik wrote:
On 1/20/14, 8:03 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

Hi,
There is such thing as Silicon dielectric paste.

As a side note... it's good practice to avoid emery cloth on or around
any electrical equipment... (especially if commutators, slip rings,
brushes, high voltages, bearings/bushings or easily shorted circuitry can
become contaminated).

Microscopic emery particles (extremely hard, abrasive and electrically
conductive) tend to embed themselves into copper, brass and other soft
materials, and can really raise hell far as tracking & arcing go. Once
contaminated, removal by other than part replacement is usually not practical or possible.

If abrasive papers must be used, sand paper such as non conductive
aluminum oxide should always get the nod.

http://www.polywater.com/sandpaper.asp

Even then grit removal is very important.

Erik

There was an electrical cleaner called blue stuff. I managed to buy a
couple spray cans before they were off the market. Mini scrubbers. Tiny
shells.....from an old post if mine.....


I don't see anything like Blue Stuff. Well I guess one can try making his
own by getting some white grease spray and Diatomaceous earth, mixing
with a little blue coloring and there you go.

greg

wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?

After reading all the responses so far, it seems that since no one has
mentioned it yet, there must be something that WD-40 cannot fix? :-)

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On Tuesday, January 21, 2014 8:19:50 AM UTC-5, willshak wrote:
wrote:

I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector

between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly

corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector

makes it go on and off.



The way it's designed I can't really get at

it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical

contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also

with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of

application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent

corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.

Any products to recommend?



After reading all the responses so far, it seems that since no one has

mentioned it yet, there must be something that WD-40 cannot fix? :-)

WD-40 would work OK as a cleaner if you don't have any Deoxit, but Deoxit (or "tuner cleaner") is far preferable.

nate

On 1/21/2014 8:37 AM, N8N wrote:
On Tuesday, January 21, 2014 8:19:50 AM UTC-5, willshak wrote:

After reading all the responses so far, it seems that since no one has

mentioned it yet, there must be something that WD-40 cannot fix? :-)

WD-40 would work OK as a cleaner if you don't have any Deoxit, but Deoxit (or "tuner cleaner") is far preferable.

nate


You know, I'm also surprised no one mentioned WD.

A friend of mine really likes Caig Deoxit, for
corroded terminal cleaning.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/21/2014 8:37 AM, N8N wrote:
On Tuesday, January 21, 2014 8:19:50 AM UTC-5, willshak wrote:

After reading all the responses so far, it seems that since no one has

mentioned it yet, there must be something that WD-40 cannot fix? :-)

WD-40 would work OK as a cleaner if you don't have any Deoxit, but
Deoxit (or "tuner cleaner") is far preferable.

nate


You know, I'm also surprised no one mentioned WD.

A friend of mine really likes Caig Deoxit, for
corroded terminal cleaning.


There is not too much stuff that actually cleans. Most of the cleaning is
by rubbing. An oil or alcohol will help move the grime around. Deoxit is
pretty good stuff to have around. So is CRC 2-26 .

Two things that can clean are acids like Tarn-X or olive oil. The oleic
acid in olive oil, or plain oleic acid eats corrosion. Needs to be flushed
after cleaning.

Greg

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 1/21/2014 8:37 AM, N8N wrote:
On Tuesday, January 21, 2014 8:19:50 AM UTC-5, willshak wrote:

After reading all the responses so far, it seems that since no one has

mentioned it yet, there must be something that WD-40 cannot fix? :-)

WD-40 would work OK as a cleaner if you don't have any Deoxit, but
Deoxit (or "tuner cleaner") is far preferable.

nate


You know, I'm also surprised no one mentioned WD.

A friend of mine really likes Caig Deoxit, for
corroded terminal cleaning.


Deoxit is only a 5% solution. For better results, the red 100 % solution, I
would recommend. It's not a spray. More oily, and but not good for certain
environments
That could collect dust.

Greg

In article om,
bud-- wrote:

On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?


Is the wire-to-contact a good connection? Probably is.

Possibilities for cleaning the contact include real small file (needle
file) or sharp surface (nail ground to be a chisel?).

Is there enough spring tension to keep the contacts together - bend a
contact?

If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

Trader4-

I agree with Bud. Grease may prevent future problems, but it won't fix
a bad connection.

You need to determine exactly where the bad connection is. It could be
a quick-disconnect that is sprung, or it could be a defective crimp
where the terminal attaches to a wire.

Fred

Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article om,
bud-- wrote:

On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?


Is the wire-to-contact a good connection? Probably is.

Possibilities for cleaning the contact include real small file (needle
file) or sharp surface (nail ground to be a chisel?).

Is there enough spring tension to keep the contacts together - bend a
contact?

If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William M.D.
"Mike" Wright.

It's still being produced and sold:

http://www.stabilant.com/bccomp.htm

Jeff


Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.


--

Trader4-

I agree with Bud. Grease may prevent future problems, but it won't fix
a bad connection.

You need to determine exactly where the bad connection is. It could be
a quick-disconnect that is sprung, or it could be a defective crimp
where the terminal attaches to a wire.

Fred

wrote:
I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector
between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly
corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector
makes it go on and off.

The way it's designed I can't really get at
it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical
contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?



I've had a brush top can of Thomas and Betts Kopr-Shield grease for
probably 30 years now and always paint a bit of it it on automotive bulb
and connector contacts when changing out things.

Works for me:

http://www.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=20131879

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 1/23/2014 2:13 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article om,
bud-- wrote:

On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
....

with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?


....


If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William M.D.
"Mike" Wright.

It's still being produced and sold:

http://www.stabilant.com/bccomp.htm

....

Of course, a conductant is _not_ what OP wants here in all likelihood.
Virtually all current connectors include both terminals any more so if
fill it up w/ a conductor he'll short them out for sure. The days of
the old single-wire "hot" bulb connector w/ chassis ground are long gone.

--

On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 4:56:24 PM UTC-5, Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article om,

bud-- wrote:



On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:

I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector

between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly

corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector

makes it go on and off.



The way it's designed I can't really get at

it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical

contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also

with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of

application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent

corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.

Any products to recommend?





Is the wire-to-contact a good connection? Probably is.



Possibilities for cleaning the contact include real small file (needle

file) or sharp surface (nail ground to be a chisel?).



Is there enough spring tension to keep the contacts together - bend a

contact?



If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and

other deteriorating agents out.



The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.

Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.



Trader4-



I agree with Bud. Grease may prevent future problems, but it won't fix

a bad connection.



You need to determine exactly where the bad connection is. It could be

a quick-disconnect that is sprung, or it could be a defective crimp

where the terminal attaches to a wire.



Fred

Or it could be neither, just the point where the connector mates.
Put some dielectric grease on it and it's working.

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 3:13:55 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:

In article om,

bud-- wrote:



On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:

I have a car fog light where the problem is the electrical connector

between the housing and the cable. It doesn't appear badly

corroded or anything. But when it's assembled, wiggling the connector

makes it go on and off.



The way it's designed I can't really get at

it to clean it with emery cloth or anything. I have some electrical

contact cleaner I'm going to try. But aside from that and also

with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of

application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent

corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.

Any products to recommend?





Is the wire-to-contact a good connection? Probably is.



Possibilities for cleaning the contact include real small file (needle

file) or sharp surface (nail ground to be a chisel?).



Is there enough spring tension to keep the contacts together - bend a

contact?



If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and

other deteriorating agents out.



The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.

Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.



Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William M.D.

"Mike" Wright.



It's still being produced and sold:



http://www.stabilant.com/bccomp.htm



Jeff





Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.




Thanks, Brass Rat 78 here






--



Trader4-



I agree with Bud. Grease may prevent future problems, but it won't fix

a bad connection.



You need to determine exactly where the bad connection is. It could be

a quick-disconnect that is sprung, or it could be a defective crimp

where the terminal attaches to a wire.



Fred

dpb wrote:
On 1/23/2014 2:13 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article om,
bud-- wrote:

On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
...

with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?


...


If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William M.D.
"Mike" Wright.

It's still being produced and sold:

http://www.stabilant.com/bccomp.htm

...

Of course, a conductant is _not_ what OP wants here in all likelihood.
Virtually all current connectors include both terminals any more so if
fill it up w/ a conductor he'll short them out for sure. The days of the
old single-wire "hot" bulb connector w/ chassis ground are long gone.

--

Any conduction taking place, is a very small distance. It will not out
short out connections. Never fooled much with stabilant. What you get is a
highly diluted solution, mostly alcohol.

Greg

On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, gregz wrote:
wrote:
On 1/23/2014 2:13 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In raweb.com,
wrote:

On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
...

with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?


...


If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William M.D.
"Mike" Wright.

It's still being produced and sold:

http://www.stabilant.com/bccomp.htm

...

Of course, a conductant is _not_ what OP wants here in all likelihood.
Virtually all current connectors include both terminals any more so if
fill it up w/ a conductor he'll short them out for sure. The days of the
old single-wire "hot" bulb connector w/ chassis ground are long gone.

--

Any conduction taking place, is a very small distance. It will not out
short out connections. Never fooled much with stabilant. What you get is a
highly diluted solution, mostly alcohol.

Don't know about that; I thought the point of "conductive" grease _was_
the conductivity. But the spacing between conductors ain't all that
much in some of these connectors. I'd not take the chance meself.

But, I've not had any use for any and so don't know actual datasheet
spec's...

--

On Friday, January 24, 2014 9:18:04 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, gregz wrote:

wrote:

On 1/23/2014 2:13 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

Fred McKenzie wrote:

In raweb.com,

wrote:



On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:

...



with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of

application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent

corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.

Any products to recommend?





...





If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and

other deteriorating agents out.



The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.

Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.



Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William M.D.

"Mike" Wright.



It's still being produced and sold:



http://www.stabilant.com/bccomp.htm



...



Of course, a conductant is _not_ what OP wants here in all likelihood.

Virtually all current connectors include both terminals any more so if

fill it up w/ a conductor he'll short them out for sure. The days of the

old single-wire "hot" bulb connector w/ chassis ground are long gone.



--



Any conduction taking place, is a very small distance. It will not out

short out connections. Never fooled much with stabilant. What you get is a

highly diluted solution, mostly alcohol.



Don't know about that; I thought the point of "conductive" grease _was_

the conductivity. But the spacing between conductors ain't all that

much in some of these connectors. I'd not take the chance meself.



But, I've not had any use for any and so don't know actual datasheet

spec's...



--

+1

It would seem to me if you had a grease type compound that was
conductive, the smaller the distance, the worse the problem. If
I have two conductors 1/16" away from each other it's going to
be easier for the conductive stuff to connect them than if they
were 1" apart. I would think you'd only use the conductive stuff
where there is good separation and you can keep the stuff where
it needs to be. With many auto type connectors, you can't do that.

I wound up cleaing the connector with electrical contact cleaner,
then working the connector on/off a dozen times, then applying
dielectric grease. It's working fine as of now.....

On 1/24/2014 8:18 AM, dpb wrote:
On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, gregz wrote:
wrote:
On 1/23/2014 2:13 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In raweb.com,
wrote:

On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
...

with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?


...


If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep
water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is
Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William
M.D.
"Mike" Wright.

It's still being produced and sold:

http://www.stabilant.com/bccomp.htm

...

Of course, a conductant is _not_ what OP wants here in all likelihood.
Virtually all current connectors include both terminals any more so if
fill it up w/ a conductor he'll short them out for sure. The days of
the
old single-wire "hot" bulb connector w/ chassis ground are long gone.

--

Any conduction taking place, is a very small distance. It will not out
short out connections. Never fooled much with stabilant. What you get
is a
highly diluted solution, mostly alcohol.

Don't know about that; I thought the point of "conductive" grease _was_
the conductivity. But the spacing between conductors ain't all that
much in some of these connectors. I'd not take the chance meself.

But, I've not had any use for any and so don't know actual datasheet
spec's...


"Stabilant 22 is an initially non-conductive block polymer that when
used in a thin film within contacts switches to a conductive state under
the effect of the electrical field. The field gradient at which this
occurs is set such that the material will remain non-conductive between
adjacent contacts in a multiple pin connector environment."

It is now also available diluted with alcohol.

I make no claims about effectiveness of the stuff.

On 1/24/2014 9:00 AM, wrote:
On Friday, January 24, 2014 9:18:04 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, gregz wrote:
wrote:
On 1/23/2014 2:13 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In raweb.com,
wrote:
On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
...
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?
...

If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William M.D.
"Mike" Wright.

It's still being produced and sold:

Of course, a conductant is _not_ what OP wants here in all likelihood.
Virtually all current connectors include both terminals any more so if
fill it up w/ a conductor he'll short them out for sure. The days of the
old single-wire "hot" bulb connector w/ chassis ground are long gone.

Any conduction taking place, is a very small distance. It will not out
short out connections. Never fooled much with stabilant. What you get is a
highly diluted solution, mostly alcohol.

Don't know about that; I thought the point of "conductive" grease _was_
the conductivity. But the spacing between conductors ain't all that
much in some of these connectors. I'd not take the chance meself.

But, I've not had any use for any and so don't know actual datasheet
spec's...

+1

It would seem to me if you had a grease type compound that was
conductive, the smaller the distance, the worse the problem. If
I have two conductors 1/16" away from each other it's going to
be easier for the conductive stuff to connect them than if they
were 1" apart. I would think you'd only use the conductive stuff
where there is good separation and you can keep the stuff where
it needs to be. With many auto type connectors, you can't do that.

I wound up cleaing the connector with electrical contact cleaner,
then working the connector on/off a dozen times, then applying
dielectric grease. It's working fine as of now.....

I'd never previously actually looked at the datasheet for Stabilant--

The Stabilant isn't actually a conductive grease of which one normally
thinks; it's as Gregz says above a dilute solution in a carrier of a
polymer and it has very unusual properties in that it is only conductive
under an applied field if I read their (limited) top-level stuff correctly.

I was thinking (and writing) of an actual bulk grease that is
electrically conductive such as Conducto-Lube or the like that are full
of Ag or C or other various other conductive materials depending on the
target application and serve also as the water displacement that the Si
lubes do for plug boots, electrical connectors and the like. But, these
latter non-conductive greases don't actually help the connection, it
relies on physical contact to locally displace them for the actual
electrical contact but they remain in the overall connector to keep out
dirt, moisture, etc.

But, while Stabilant would serve well for the connection, it's price
overkill for automotive connectors so I was pretty much discounting its
actual use for your purposes, simply cautioning against slopping a bunch
of a conductive paste grease in there thinking one would want it to be
conductive but not thinking about having both polarities in the same
connector before doing same.

Perhaps that clarifies the difference some and covers both ends of the
spectrum...

--

On 1/24/2014 9:31 AM, bud-- wrote:
....
"Stabilant 22 is an initially non-conductive block polymer that when
used in a thin film within contacts switches to a conductive state under
the effect of the electrical field. The field gradient at which this
occurs is set such that the material will remain non-conductive between
adjacent contacts in a multiple pin connector environment."

It is now also available diluted with alcohol.
....

See my above amplification -- it's entirely different animuhl than of
which I was cautioning.

--

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 08:18:04 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, gregz wrote:
wrote:
On 1/23/2014 2:13 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In raweb.com,
wrote:

On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
...

with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?


...


If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William M.D.
"Mike" Wright.

It's still being produced and sold:

http://www.stabilant.com/bccomp.htm

...

Of course, a conductant is _not_ what OP wants here in all likelihood.
Virtually all current connectors include both terminals any more so if
fill it up w/ a conductor he'll short them out for sure. The days of the
old single-wire "hot" bulb connector w/ chassis ground are long gone.

--

Any conduction taking place, is a very small distance. It will not out
short out connections. Never fooled much with stabilant. What you get is a
highly diluted solution, mostly alcohol.

Don't know about that; I thought the point of "conductive" grease _was_
the conductivity. But the spacing between conductors ain't all that
much in some of these connectors. I'd not take the chance meself.

But, I've not had any use for any and so don't know actual datasheet
spec's...
The stabilant was described as "electrically neutral" - it "enhanced
conductivity" of connections and "stabilized" the connection.

On 1/24/2014 5:45 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 08:18:04 -0600, wrote:
....

The stabilant was described as "electrically neutral" - it "enhanced
conductivity" of connections and "stabilized" the connection.

Well, yes, as the followup says it's a very odd piece o' work and isn't
a bulk grease at all and has the unusual property that appears only
conductive w/ applied load.

As said in that follow-up that's a completely different piece o' work
than what was cautioning against...

--

dpb wrote:
On 1/24/2014 9:00 AM, wrote:
On Friday, January 24, 2014 9:18:04 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, gregz wrote:
wrote:
On 1/23/2014 2:13 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In raweb.com,
wrote:
On 1/20/2014 9:08 AM, wrote:
...
with a view to the future, what do you guys use for that kind of
application? Some kind of grease like product that would prevent
corrosion but conduct electricity would seem to be what I need.
Any products to recommend?
...

If you get a good contact a little dielectric grease can keep water and
other deteriorating agents out.

The only goo that I know of that is supposed to conduct is Stabilant 22.
Spendy, and I don't know if it is still around.

Stabilant was developed by my college buddy from the 1950s, William M.D.
"Mike" Wright.

It's still being produced and sold:

Of course, a conductant is _not_ what OP wants here in all likelihood.
Virtually all current connectors include both terminals any more so if
fill it up w/ a conductor he'll short them out for sure. The days of the
old single-wire "hot" bulb connector w/ chassis ground are long gone.

Any conduction taking place, is a very small distance. It will not out
short out connections. Never fooled much with stabilant. What you get is a
highly diluted solution, mostly alcohol.

Don't know about that; I thought the point of "conductive" grease _was_
the conductivity. But the spacing between conductors ain't all that
much in some of these connectors. I'd not take the chance meself.

But, I've not had any use for any and so don't know actual datasheet
spec's...

+1

It would seem to me if you had a grease type compound that was
conductive, the smaller the distance, the worse the problem. If
I have two conductors 1/16" away from each other it's going to
be easier for the conductive stuff to connect them than if they
were 1" apart. I would think you'd only use the conductive stuff
where there is good separation and you can keep the stuff where
it needs to be. With many auto type connectors, you can't do that.

I wound up cleaing the connector with electrical contact cleaner,
then working the connector on/off a dozen times, then applying
dielectric grease. It's working fine as of now.....

I'd never previously actually looked at the datasheet for Stabilant--

The Stabilant isn't actually a conductive grease of which one normally
thinks; it's as Gregz says above a dilute solution in a carrier of a
polymer and it has very unusual properties in that it is only conductive
under an applied field if I read their (limited) top-level stuff correctly.

I was thinking (and writing) of an actual bulk grease that is
electrically conductive such as Conducto-Lube or the like that are full
of Ag or C or other various other conductive materials depending on the
target application and serve also as the water displacement that the Si
lubes do for plug boots, electrical connectors and the like. But, these
latter non-conductive greases don't actually help the connection, it
relies on physical contact to locally displace them for the actual
electrical contact but they remain in the overall connector to keep out
dirt, moisture, etc.

But, while Stabilant would serve well for the connection, it's price
overkill for automotive connectors so I was pretty much discounting its
actual use for your purposes, simply cautioning against slopping a bunch
of a conductive paste grease in there thinking one would want it to be
conductive but not thinking about having both polarities in the same
connector before doing same.

Perhaps that clarifies the difference some and covers both ends of the spectrum...

--

Volkswagon dealers and NAPA used to carry Stabilant. A long time ago,
called Tweek, by audio company.

I'm not sure if i ever measured my cramolin copper loaded grease. I think
it might be best for static elimination. A long time ago something about
railroad tracks was mentioned, can't remember where or who.

Greg