I have a Panasonic Inverter microwave. I really like it, and it has
performed like a champ for years now. Now, with increasing frequency,
it will not start when I shut the door. Lifting the door up slightly
sometimes will get it to start on its own. Sometimes I have to repunch
the numbers. I seem to be able to get it to work, it just takes
fiddling with. Are there any adjustments that can be done? I am pretty
sure it has to do with the door closure apparatus/hooks/interlocks/ and
the plastic items that the hooks go into, and allow the circuit to be
complete so cooking can start. Is there anything in there to be
lubricated? Any way to file the hooks down a tad to make them drop down
just enough to make it work? Help appreciated.

Steve

On 12/18/2013 10:17 PM, SteveB wrote:
I have a Panasonic Inverter microwave. I really like it, and it has
performed like a champ for years now. Now, with increasing frequency,
it will not start when I shut the door. Lifting the door up slightly
sometimes will get it to start on its own. Sometimes I have to repunch
the numbers. I seem to be able to get it to work, it just takes
fiddling with. Are there any adjustments that can be done? I am pretty
sure it has to do with the door closure apparatus/hooks/interlocks/ and
the plastic items that the hooks go into, and allow the circuit to be
complete so cooking can start. Is there anything in there to be
lubricated? Any way to file the hooks down a tad to make them drop down
just enough to make it work? Help appreciated.

Steve

This might be obvious, but if you don't know what you are doing, you
might just leave this to someone else. The steps to take with this
are potentially hazardous. What is your skill level with working
around items that have the potential to shock you, even when they are
unplugged?

On Wed, 18 Dec 2013 21:17:52 -0700, SteveB
wrote:

I have a Panasonic Inverter microwave. I really like it, and it has
performed like a champ for years now. Now, with increasing frequency,
it will not start when I shut the door. Lifting the door up slightly
sometimes will get it to start on its own. Sometimes I have to repunch
the numbers. I seem to be able to get it to work, it just takes
fiddling with. Are there any adjustments that can be done? I am pretty
sure it has to do with the door closure apparatus/hooks/interlocks/ and
the plastic items that the hooks go into, and allow the circuit to be
complete so cooking can start. Is there anything in there to be
lubricated?

I don't think so, but you can look at each switch. There is likely
a circuit diagram inside the right side, with maybe some indication of
where each switch is. But don't run the thing for more time than it
takes to test it, one or two seconds, without all the covers on.
Better yet, when the thing is unplugged so as to not burn out the
meter, test the switches with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. And
then you should only need a total of two seconds for testing after you
get the switches right.

Any way to file the hooks down a tad to make them drop down

Are you sure you want it smaller, and not bigger?

At any rate, every microwave made in the last many years has to have 3
door interlocks, So don't waste too much time on a good one when
there's another somewhere that's bad.

just enough to make it work? Help appreciated.

YOu can tell that the big plastic hooks on the door don't go down?

I visited friends once who had a door that wouldn't latch at all.
While they were at work, I took apart the door and reattached the
spring that pulled on those hooks. The plastic stud it attached to
had broken off so I used some wire I found in their house, hooked it a
couple loops back from the end of the spring and tied it on somewhere
past where the stud had been. It was easy once the inside panel of
the door was open. All of it was in the right-most inch of the
door. Maybe that will tighten the right spring for you.

They were really happy when they found it fixed when they got home.


BTW, wrt another thread, this is another example of why I carry tooks
(and a meter) in the car. He probably had all the tools I needed, but
I didn't want to rummage through his place while they were at work.

Steve

On 12/18/2013 11:17 PM, SteveB wrote:
I have a Panasonic Inverter microwave. I really like it, and it has
performed like a champ for years now. Now, with increasing frequency,
it will not start when I shut the door. Lifting the door up slightly
sometimes will get it to start on its own. Sometimes I have to repunch
the numbers. I seem to be able to get it to work, it just takes
fiddling with. Are there any adjustments that can be done? I am pretty
sure it has to do with the door closure apparatus/hooks/interlocks/ and
the plastic items that the hooks go into, and allow the circuit to be
complete so cooking can start. Is there anything in there to be
lubricated? Any way to file the hooks down a tad to make them drop down
just enough to make it work? Help appreciated.

Steve

Posted elsewhere that I also just got one of these Panasonic Inverter
microwave ovens and am very happy with it.

This was the problem with the one we got rid of. Can't remember brand,
but it was a problem with the door. Oven would work fine but you had to
fiddle with the door in the manner you describe.

Whatever, these things are like toasters and you toss them when they get
finicky.

On 12/18/2013 8:17 PM, SteveB wrote:
I have a Panasonic Inverter microwave. I really like it, and it has
performed like a champ for years now. Now, with increasing frequency, it
will not start when I shut the door. Lifting the door up slightly
sometimes will get it to start on its own. Sometimes I have to repunch
the numbers. I seem to be able to get it to work, it just takes fiddling
with. Are there any adjustments that can be done? I am pretty sure it
has to do with the door closure apparatus/hooks/interlocks/ and the
plastic items that the hooks go into, and allow the circuit to be
complete so cooking can start. Is there anything in there to be
lubricated? Any way to file the hooks down a tad to make them drop down
just enough to make it work? Help appreciated.

Steve
Oh, boy, can I ever answer your question.

We have the same microwave and for a year or more had the same problem.

You must remove the cover. Takes a hex security screw driver for the
back screws and a Phillips driver for the side screw.

You will see a very flimsy steel bracket holding the door interlock
mechanisms. There are two, one above the other.

The metal bracket bends away from the door when you close it. This is
the problem. the solution is to add a metal strip to hold the bracket in
place. There are already holes there for the brace, but they failed to
install it. You will see the holes at the top of the bracket and the
metal frame nearby. I am writing this from memory.

Use screws or small bolts to secure the brace. Do this with the door
closed so all is aligned properly.

then plug in the oven and see if it runs. It only has to start, then
shut it off. There may be some adjustments necessary to get the new
bracket tightened in the right position.

Put the cover back on when the oven door works properly.

Our oven had been performing perfectly for about 6 months since adding
the brace.

Paul

On 12/19/2013 2:51 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:.

You must remove the cover. Takes a hex security screw driver for the
back screws and a Phillips driver for the side screw.

You will see a very flimsy steel bracket holding the door interlock
mechanisms. There are two, one above the other.

The metal bracket bends away from the door when you close it. This is
the problem. the solution is to add a metal strip to hold the bracket in
place. There are already holes there for the brace, but they failed to
install it. You will see the holes at the top of the bracket and the
metal frame nearby. I am writing this from memory.

Use screws or small bolts to secure the brace. Do this with the door
closed so all is aligned properly.

then plug in the oven and see if it runs. It only has to start, then
shut it off. There may be some adjustments necessary to get the new
bracket tightened in the right position.

Put the cover back on when the oven door works properly.

Our oven had been performing perfectly for about 6 months since adding
the brace.

Paul

Thanks. My next step was to take the cover off, and examine the
workings of the door mechanism, and probably be able to figure out from
there. Those doors open and close a huge number of times.

Steve

SteveB wrote:
On 12/19/2013 2:51 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:.

You must remove the cover. Takes a hex security screw driver for the
back screws and a Phillips driver for the side screw.

You will see a very flimsy steel bracket holding the door interlock
mechanisms. There are two, one above the other.

The metal bracket bends away from the door when you close it. This is
the problem. the solution is to add a metal strip to hold the bracket in
place. There are already holes there for the brace, but they failed to
install it. You will see the holes at the top of the bracket and the
metal frame nearby. I am writing this from memory.

Use screws or small bolts to secure the brace. Do this with the door
closed so all is aligned properly.

then plug in the oven and see if it runs. It only has to start, then
shut it off. There may be some adjustments necessary to get the new
bracket tightened in the right position.

Put the cover back on when the oven door works properly.

Our oven had been performing perfectly for about 6 months since adding
the brace.

Paul

Thanks. My next step was to take the cover off, and examine the
workings of the door mechanism, and probably be able to figure out from
there. Those doors open and close a huge number of times.

Steve

Hi,
Some ovens have two interlock switches in series. If they don't make and
break in proper order oven won't work. Our last Panasonic oven
was like that.