I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good
friend says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both.
What are your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I
just need a bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so
wanted to get some input first.

Are the Husky XP's worth the extra? Same for the Stihl Pro models?

Thanks

On Thursday, December 5, 2013 7:13:00 PM UTC-8, SteveB wrote:
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good
friend says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both.
What are your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I
just need a bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so
wanted to get some input first.

Both makes are excellent saws. Pro models are worth it if you are doing a lot of cutting.

When choosing a saw you should also consider service and buy one that has good service where you are. In my case it is Stihl (I run 4 of them).

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Thursday, December 5, 2013 7:13:00 PM UTC-8, SteveB wrote:
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good
friend says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both.
What are your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I
just need a bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so
wanted to get some input first.

Both makes are excellent saws. Pro models are worth it if you are doing a lot of cutting.

When choosing a saw you should also consider service and buy one that has good service where you are. In my case it is Stihl (I run 4 of them).

Harry K

Hi,
In our area Husqy is less popular due to scarce service/parts.

On 12/05/2013 10:13 PM, SteveB wrote:
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good friend says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen
and like both. What are your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I just need a bigger saw, and will
be spending a chunk of change, so wanted to get some input first.

Are the Husky XP's worth the extra? Same for the Stihl Pro models?

Thanks

I buy what the top professionals buy and Asplundh Tree Service uses Stihl.

On Thu, 05 Dec 2013 20:13:00 -0700, SteveB
wrote:

I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good
friend says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both.
What are your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I
just need a bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so
wanted to get some input first.

Are the Husky XP's worth the extra? Same for the Stihl Pro models?

Thanks

Both are very good and yes, the pro models are worth it. I'd choose
the dealer as the saws are about equal.

If it is the same dealer for both brands, I'd pick up the saws and see
if one feels better in your hands to use.

SteveB wrote:
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good friend
says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both. What are
your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I just need a
bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so wanted to get some input first.

Are the Husky XP's worth the extra? Same for the Stihl Pro models?

Thanks

Have you asked the same question at a couple of dealers that service both
brands?

Tony Hwang wrote:

Harry K wrote:
On Thursday, December 5, 2013 7:13:00 PM UTC-8, SteveB wrote:
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good
friend says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both.
What are your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I
just need a bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so
wanted to get some input first.

Both makes are excellent saws. Pro models are worth it if you are doing a lot of cutting.

When choosing a saw you should also consider service and buy one that has good service where you are. In my case it is Stihl (I run 4 of them).

Harry K

Hi,
In our area Husqy is less popular due to scarce service/parts.

Shindaiwa, known since the merger as the Echo models that end in "P".
Also be sure to get proper "pro" chains, not the horrid consumer
"safety" chains that couldn't cut butter.

On Thu, 05 Dec 2013 20:13:00 -0700, SteveB
wrote:

Thanks

'Timber' Tina's World Champion Lumberjills -Chics with Axes, PO Box
994, Ellsworth, Maine

207-667-0067

http://lumberjills.com/

I'd likely go with the Stihl. German engineered, built in the USA?

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good friend
says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both. What are your
opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I just need a
bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so wanted to get some
input first.

Are the Husky XP's worth the extra? Same for the Stihl Pro models?

Thanks

Dunno how consistent the Husky will start. However, we use Stihl at work
on a consistent basis, IMHO, they are a POS for starting. Except for the
mini, which we use in the buckets, and have a primer bulb. They are a nice
unit, starts most times on first pull.

On 12/6/2013 5:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
SteveB wrote:
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good friend
says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both. What are
your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I just need a
bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so wanted to get some input first.

Are the Husky XP's worth the extra? Same for the Stihl Pro models?

Thanks

Have you asked the same question at a couple of dealers that service both
brands?

Isn't that like asking a used car salesman if his car is any good?

SteveB wrote:
On 12/6/2013 5:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
SteveB wrote:
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good friend
says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both. What are
your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I just need a
bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so wanted to get some input first.

Are the Husky XP's worth the extra? Same for the Stihl Pro models?

Thanks

Have you asked the same question at a couple of dealers that service both
brands?

Isn't that like asking a used car salesman if his car is any good?

I don't think so. I bought my snowblower at an independent dealer that
sells multiple brands. He asked me for my requirements, pointed out a few
options (different brands) and recommended an Ariens based on what he's
seen from a service perspective in my price range. There were cheaper
options and more expensive options. Cheaper meant less reliability,
expensive meant features that I could live without. I chose the Ariens and
used to be satisfied.

I say "used to be" because 2 years later they upgraded my model to have a
remote controlled discharge chute, controlled from behind the operator's
console. That ****ed me off.

I'm short and can't (actually _couldn't_ is the correct word...read on)
reach the discharge chute handle from behind the machine. Once I found out
how much a new chute and console would cost if I wanted to upgrade my
machine, I chose a cheaper upgrade option, one that cost me less than $10.
Note the extended handle for the discharge chute.

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...9390888902.jpg

The hooks are so that I can carry a shovel or two when I take the machine
on the road.

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
On 12/6/2013 5:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
SteveB wrote:
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good
friend
says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both. What are
your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I just need
a
bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so wanted to get
some input first.

Are the Husky XP's worth the extra? Same for the Stihl Pro models?

Thanks


They are both good makes.
Nothing to choose between them.

On Fri, 06 Dec 2013 13:37:13 -0800, Oren wrote:

I'd likely go with the Stihl. German engineered, built in the USA?

I went with the Husky.

It was, for an 18" 445, cheaper by about 50 bucks.
Other than that, I'm not sure if it matters.

I did have a Craftsman (Poulan) and it died within 18
months. The pistons were scored. I have yet, to this day,
understood how that happened; but, as a result, I vowed
never to buy a Craftsman chainsaw ever again.

Now I go through chains once a year, but, at least the
engine is running well.

In hindsight, the Stihl had an easier chain removal
procedure; so, maybe I *should* have bought that instead,
as I'm constantly sharpening the chain...

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:05:53 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

I did have a Craftsman (Poulan) and it died within 18
months. The pistons were scored. I have yet, to this day,
understood how that happened; but, as a result, I vowed
never to buy a Craftsman chainsaw ever again.

....sumpin broke

Could have been a piston ring broke or possibly a rod bearing.

"harryagain" wrote:
"SteveB" wrote in message
...
On 12/6/2013 5:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
SteveB wrote:
I am looking at the Husky 455 and 460 with a 20" bar. A very good
friend
says he is a lifelong Stihl fan. I have seen and like both. What are
your opinions on both? I have a Husky now, and I love it. I just need
a
bigger saw, and will be spending a chunk of change, so wanted to get
some input first.

Are the Husky XP's worth the extra? Same for the Stihl Pro models?

Thanks


They are both good makes.
Nothing to choose between them.

Nothing? Really?

Then they must be the exact same saw. Same weight, same balance, same
color, same gas cap, same chain adjustment method, same everything.

I'm surprised they have a different name tag on them.

On 12/11/2013 2:05 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Now I go through chains once a year, but, at least the
engine is running well.

In hindsight, the Stihl had an easier chain removal
procedure; so, maybe I *should* have bought that instead,
as I'm constantly sharpening the chain...

Round file. Sharpen on the bar.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:16:41 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

In hindsight, the Stihl had an easier chain removal
procedure; so, maybe I *should* have bought that instead,
as I'm constantly sharpening the chain...

Round file. Sharpen on the bar.

....done by pros, using a course and a fine rat tail file

Saves time.

On 12/11/2013 5:31 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:16:41 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

In hindsight, the Stihl had an easier chain removal
procedure; so, maybe I *should* have bought that instead,
as I'm constantly sharpening the chain...

Round file. Sharpen on the bar.

...done by pros, using a course and a fine rat tail file

Saves time.

Saw files can be found at some stores. Same
diameter, the length of the file. Works, for me.
Taper files, not as suited for saw chain.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:50:38 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/11/2013 5:31 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:16:41 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

In hindsight, the Stihl had an easier chain removal
procedure; so, maybe I *should* have bought that instead,
as I'm constantly sharpening the chain...

Round file. Sharpen on the bar.

...done by pros, using a course and a fine rat tail file

Saves time.

Saw files can be found at some stores. Same
diameter, the length of the file. Works, for me.
Taper files, not as suited for saw chain.

Are you saying a metal rat tail file is not feasible? I disagree.

On 12/11/2013 10:21 PM, Oren wrote:
Saw files can be found at some stores. Same
diameter, the length of the file. Works, for me.
Taper files, not as suited for saw chain.

Are you saying a metal rat tail file is not feasible? I disagree.

I don't think a rat tail (taper) file is
good for saw chain. Better to have a saw
file, same diameter the length of it.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...
On 12/11/2013 10:21 PM, Oren wrote:
Saw files can be found at some stores. Same
diameter, the length of the file. Works, for me.
Taper files, not as suited for saw chain.

Are you saying a metal rat tail file is not feasible? I disagree.

I don't think a rat tail (taper) file is
good for saw chain. Better to have a saw
file, same diameter the length of it.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

True, dat. I used to just drop my chains off at the local shop, do
some grocery shopping, then pick them up on the way back. My electric
sharpener worked fine, but the bench unit at the shop took about 2 seconds
per tooth. I liked square tooth chains, too. Except on the limbing saw.

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 22:36:45 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/11/2013 10:21 PM, Oren wrote:
Saw files can be found at some stores. Same
diameter, the length of the file. Works, for me.
Taper files, not as suited for saw chain.

Are you saying a metal rat tail file is not feasible? I disagree.

I don't think a rat tail (taper) file is
good for saw chain. Better to have a saw
file, same diameter the length of it.

Speak to a professional Arborist. Ask 'em what they use. It really
doesn't take much effort to sharpen a chain before you climb a tall
pine tree and drop the branches. YMMV

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 8:37:42 PM UTC-8, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 22:36:45 -0500, Stormin Mormon

wrote:



On 12/11/2013 10:21 PM, Oren wrote:

Saw files can be found at some stores. Same

diameter, the length of the file. Works, for me.

Taper files, not as suited for saw chain.



Are you saying a metal rat tail file is not feasible? I disagree.



I don't think a rat tail (taper) file is

good for saw chain. Better to have a saw

file, same diameter the length of it.



Speak to a professional Arborist. Ask 'em what they use. It really

doesn't take much effort to sharpen a chain before you climb a tall

pine tree and drop the branches. YMMV

A pro would not use a "rat-tail" file, i.e, one that tapers from one end to the other in the tooth portion. Now if you are talking about a file that has the thin pointed _handle_ end, so do the standard chainsaw files. They have no taper in the tooth portion.

Harry K

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:22:42 -0800 (PST), Harry K
wrote:

On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 8:37:42 PM UTC-8, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 22:36:45 -0500, Stormin Mormon

wrote:



On 12/11/2013 10:21 PM, Oren wrote:

Saw files can be found at some stores. Same

diameter, the length of the file. Works, for me.

Taper files, not as suited for saw chain.



Are you saying a metal rat tail file is not feasible? I disagree.



I don't think a rat tail (taper) file is

good for saw chain. Better to have a saw

file, same diameter the length of it.



Speak to a professional Arborist. Ask 'em what they use. It really

doesn't take much effort to sharpen a chain before you climb a tall

pine tree and drop the branches. YMMV

A pro would not use a "rat-tail" file, i.e, one that tapers from one end to the other in the tooth portion. Now if you are talking about a file that has the thin pointed _handle_ end, so do the standard chainsaw files. They have no taper in the tooth portion.

Harry K

Thanks. Maybe I was trying to say that. The file is "round", easily
works to sharpen a chain on the saw. One of my brothers was a
professional arborist.

Reminds me a rat tail. Not a rasp, but a fine tooth metal file.