Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. I'm going to spend $18 on a
new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn. It'll be
nice to have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on a new
saw get pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

dadiOH wrote:
Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up?

I have no idea what you consider "low end" but my Stihl MS 180c has held up
fine, bought it six years ago after a bunch of hurricanes.

I confused myself (easily done) forgot I had just been looking at Lows
at the Husqvarna's and that was what I was thinking of. They have a
high medium and real low end. Only the low end one had the easy to
adjust chain tension. I didn't write down the model numbers.

On Apr 18, 3:17*pm, Tony wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. *How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up?

I have no idea what you consider "low end" but my Stihl MS 180c has held up
fine, bought it six years ago after a bunch of hurricanes.

I confused myself (easily done) forgot I had just been looking at Lows
at the Husqvarna's and that was what I was thinking of. *They have a
high medium and real low end. *Only the low end one had the easy to
adjust chain tension. *I didn't write down the model numbers.

I bought a Stihl and my neighbor bought a Husqvarna about the same
time about 5 years ago. We both heat our homes with wood. I have cut
at least 5x the trees that he has, primarily because my saw has never
failed and his is usually down for repairs. Stihl has the name and
quality where Husqvarna has the name without the quality it used to
have.

KC

Two words: Stihl Husqvarna


"Tony" wrote in message
...
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type Stihls
hold up? I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few 75 foot
trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can sleep at
night. Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters from 12"
up to 18", up to 75' tall. Is a low end model with an 18" chain enough?
I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago at
Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. It always starts in 1 or
2 pulls no matter how long it sits. I'm going to spend $18 on a new
clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn. It'll be nice to
have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on a new saw get
pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and for
my repair. I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and welded
a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly so they
would fit in again). It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in the way of
the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where the plastic
case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. It worked GREAT and it's
possibly stronger than new!

"Tony" wrote in message
...
dadiOH wrote:
Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up?

I have no idea what you consider "low end" but my Stihl MS 180c has held
up fine, bought it six years ago after a bunch of hurricanes.

I confused myself (easily done) forgot I had just been looking at Lows at
the Husqvarna's and that was what I was thinking of. They have a high
medium and real low end. Only the low end one had the easy to adjust
chain tension. I didn't write down the model numbers.

I got a Husky 345 online for $237. I am quite happy, but now wish I had
upgraded to a larger one with a 20" bar. I have a 16". May still get
another, but it surely will be a Stihl 20".

Steve

Steve B wrote:

Two words: Stihl Husqvarna

One word: Shindaiwa
(not low end, rather top quality and will last a lifetime.)

A few more words: Oregon Micro-Chisel "pro" non-anti-kickback chains.
(not consumer "safety" chains, these actually cut faster than a hand bow
saw.)


I have a Shindaiwa 488 w/ 18" bar loaded with Oregon Micro-Chisel chain.
It handles beautifully and I've even cut a couple rocks in half with it
(embedded in a tree I cut down) without damage. The rocks did dull that
chain, but it was able to be resharpened good as new.

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

Two words: Stihl Husqvarna

This is a bit odd. Stihl chainsaws are still made in
Germany, while the Husqvarna factory outside Montreal
closed 10-20 years ago since when "Husqvarna" chainsaws
sold in (eastern) N.America are made in Toronto in the same
factory that makes saws for Sears Craftsman and Paulan.
Users can tell the difference.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

On 4/18/2010 1:37 PM, Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few 75
foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can sleep
at night. Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters from
12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. Is a low end model with an 18" chain
enough? I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago at
Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. It always starts in 1 or 2
pulls no matter how long it sits. I'm going to spend $18 on a new
clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn. It'll be nice to
have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on a new saw get
pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

Go with a Stihl, or Shindaiwa. The Husqies are dogs. Make sure you
get a model that allows you to use a real chain, not the sawdust
creating nail files sold on some of the 18" and smaller "home" units.

As Pete pointed out, the chain is important and most small saws can not
rev up enough to handles an aggressive chain that buzzes through wood
like butter.

The extra $100, or so, bucks you spend on the saw will be worth it in
the long run. Buy two of the chains that Pete mentioned, and save your
back.

Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. I'm going to spend $18 on a
new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn. It'll be
nice to have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on a new
saw get pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

A Stihl is a Stihl. There is no such thing as a "LO-end" Stihl.
There's no such thing as a "home owner type" Stihl. So yes, go for the
Stihl saw that meets your budget and needs. Always use the Stihl oil in
the fuel AND on the bar and you won't be disappointed.

s

Pete C. wrote:
Steve B wrote:
Two words: Stihl Husqvarna

One word: Shindaiwa
(not low end, rather top quality and will last a lifetime.)

A few more words: Oregon Micro-Chisel "pro" non-anti-kickback chains.
(not consumer "safety" chains, these actually cut faster than a hand bow
saw.)


I have a Shindaiwa 488 w/ 18" bar loaded with Oregon Micro-Chisel chain.
It handles beautifully and I've even cut a couple rocks in half with it
(embedded in a tree I cut down) without damage. The rocks did dull that
chain, but it was able to be resharpened good as new.

I purchased that type of chain for my old crapsman. Only place I found
it was at a flea market. This guy had that chain for most saws. If he
didn't have one made he would make them up for you as you wait. Without
a doubt it cut better. It cut wood chips, the standard anti kickback
chain blew sawdust. I could never see the safety chain making a
difference for kickbacks, but I suppose if your slip and cut your leg
the cut would be a fraction of what it would be with the good chain. I
prefer to use the non-safety chain carefully instead of being reckless
with the safety chain.

Tony wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
Steve B wrote:
Two words: Stihl Husqvarna

One word: Shindaiwa
(not low end, rather top quality and will last a lifetime.)

A few more words: Oregon Micro-Chisel "pro" non-anti-kickback chains.
(not consumer "safety" chains, these actually cut faster than a hand bow
saw.)


I have a Shindaiwa 488 w/ 18" bar loaded with Oregon Micro-Chisel chain.
It handles beautifully and I've even cut a couple rocks in half with it
(embedded in a tree I cut down) without damage. The rocks did dull that
chain, but it was able to be resharpened good as new.

I purchased that type of chain for my old crapsman. Only place I found
it was at a flea market. This guy had that chain for most saws. If he
didn't have one made he would make them up for you as you wait. Without
a doubt it cut better. It cut wood chips, the standard anti kickback
chain blew sawdust. I could never see the safety chain making a
difference for kickbacks, but I suppose if your slip and cut your leg
the cut would be a fraction of what it would be with the good chain. I
prefer to use the non-safety chain carefully instead of being reckless
with the safety chain.

When I first got the saw I did a test on a 12" or so tree with both a
"safety" chain and the "real" chain and found it was around a 3X
difference. You are exactly right about the sawdust from the "safety"
chain, while the "real" chain was spewing inch long cuttings at
phenomenal speed.

As for kickback, I've had that saw for about a decade now and it has
seen quite a bit of use all with the "real" chains and I've yet to have
a kickback incident. I also always work offset from the plane of the saw
bar, so if there were a kickback the bar trajectory would be past me,
not at me.

On Apr 18, 10:04*pm, "[SMF]" wrote:
On 4/18/2010 1:37 PM, Tony wrote:





Looking to buy a new chainsaw. *How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few 75
foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can sleep
at night. Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters from
12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. Is a low end model with an 18" chain
enough? I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago at
Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. It always starts in 1 or 2
pulls no matter how long it sits. I'm going to spend $18 on a new
clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn. It'll be nice to
have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on a new saw get
pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

Go with a Stihl, or Shindaiwa. *The Husqies are dogs. *Make sure you
get a model that allows you to use a real chain, not the sawdust
creating nail files sold on some of the 18" and smaller "home" units.

As Pete pointed out, the chain is important and most small saws can not
rev up enough to handles an aggressive chain that buzzes through wood
like butter.

The extra $100, or so, bucks you spend on the saw will be worth it in
the long run. *Buy two of the chains that Pete mentioned, and save your
back. - Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have a Stihl and have no complaints about it. I have two chains so
that when one gets dull, I replace it with the other and take the dull
one to be sharpened.

On Apr 18, 2:37*pm, Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. *How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? *I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. *Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. *Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? *I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. *I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. * *It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. *I'm going to spend $18 on a
new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn. *It'll be
nice to have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on a new
saw get pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. *I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. *Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. *I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). *It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. *It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

I've been meaning to post about my Husqvarna. It hasn't been used a
lot but the last couple of years, when I try to use it I have to
completely purge any old gas from it's system (gas tank, carborator)
and mix up a new fresh batch of gas to get it to start. It won't even
run on a gas mixture that was fresh the previous day.

David

On Apr 19, 10:27*am, hibb wrote:
On Apr 18, 2:37*pm, Tony wrote:





Looking to buy a new chainsaw. *How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? *I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. *Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. *Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? *I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. *I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. * *It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. *I'm going to spend $18 on a
new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn. *It'll be
nice to have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on a new
saw get pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. *I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. *Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. *I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). *It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. *It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

I've been meaning to post about my Husqvarna. It hasn't been used a
lot but the last couple of years, when I try to use it I have to
completely purge any old gas from it's system (gas tank, carborator)
and *mix up a new fresh batch of gas to get it to start. It won't even
run on a gas mixture that was fresh the previous day.

David- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'va had a mccullough for about 30 years. Bought under the mongomery
ward label. Been through a bunch of chains and a whole bunch of
trees. Got no complaints but don't know how well their recent ones
are. You're not going to avoid having to adjust the chain. Chains
stretch. Spend the extra to get a little bigger one than you think
you need. You won't regret a little extra power.

I personally will never buy anything from Stihl again. The starting of
them is such a pain!


--
Dymphna
Message origin: www.TRAVEL.com

On Apr 18, 10:44*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
A Stihl is a Stihl. *There is no such thing as a "LO-end" Stihl.
There's no such thing as a "home owner type" Stihl. *So yes, go for the
Stihl saw that meets your budget and needs. *Always use the Stihl oil in
the fuel AND on the bar and you won't be disappointed.

Bzzt. Wrong.

Stihl MS290 - retail $349
Stihl MS260 - retail $509

If there weren't different grades of saws, why is the SMALLER saw more
expensive by a long shot?

On Apr 18, 9:17�pm, Tony wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. �How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up?

I have no idea what you consider "low end" but my Stihl MS 180c has held up
fine, bought it six years ago after a bunch of hurricanes.

I confused myself (easily done) forgot I had just been looking at Lows
at the Husqvarna's and that was what I was thinking of. �They have a
high medium and real low end. �Only the low end one had the easy to
adjust chain tension. �I didn't write down the model numbers.

I have had a husqvarna for 15 years . Only minor problem is the chain
oil runs out when it's left. Good starter but needs a lot of choke
initially if left for a few weeks.

On Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:32:59 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

I'va had a mccullough for about 30 years. Bought under the mongomery
ward label. Been through a bunch of chains and a whole bunch of
trees. Got no complaints but don't know how well their recent ones
are. You're not going to avoid having to adjust the chain. Chains
stretch. Spend the extra to get a little bigger one than you think
you need. You won't regret a little extra power.

I haven't heard that brand name in many years. One brother made a
living with those saws for years and retired.

On Apr 19, 10:36*am, Dymphna
wrote:
I personally will never buy anything from Stihl again. The starting of
them is such a pain!

--
Dymphna
Message origin:www.TRAVEL.com

??? Care to expand on that? Put switch on choke, pull 3 or 4 times,
take choke off, pull 1 or 2 - running. Exactly the same as every
other brand I have ran over the past 30 years. Mac/Homey/Poulan/Stihl/
Husky

Harry K

On Apr 19, 5:05*pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:32:59 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'va had a mccullough for about 30 years. *Bought under the mongomery
ward label. *Been through a bunch of chains and a whole bunch of
trees. *Got no complaints but don't know how well their recent ones
are. *You're not going to avoid having to adjust the chain. *Chains
stretch. *Spend the extra to get a little bigger one than you think
you need. *You won't regret a little extra power.

I haven't heard that brand name in many years. One brother made a
living with those saws for years and retired.

Well, 30 years ago was jusst about the last years that Mac built real
saws. They used to be the King of the Hill in the woods.

Harry K

On Apr 18, 1:37*pm, Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. *How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? *I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. *Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. *Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? *I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. *I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. * *It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. *I'm going to spend $18 on a
new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn. *It'll be
nice to have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on a new
saw get pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. *I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. *Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. *I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). *It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. *It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

Look at Echo, their new motors have the longest ratings of engine
life, better than Sthil, and less maintenance by those I see using
them and my dealer that also sells Sthil but recommends Echo, My Sthil
has been repaired none of my Echos have needed repairs, this year I
will buy a few more Echos.

On Apr 19, 1:37*pm, wrote:
On Apr 18, 10:44*pm, Steve Barker wrote:

A Stihl is a Stihl. *There is no such thing as a "LO-end" Stihl.
There's no such thing as a "home owner type" Stihl. *So yes, go for the
Stihl saw that meets your budget and needs. *Always use the Stihl oil in
the fuel AND on the bar and you won't be disappointed.

Bzzt. Wrong.

Stihl MS290 - retail $349
Stihl MS260 - retail $509

If there weren't different grades of saws, why is the SMALLER saw more
expensive by a long shot?

Some of the smaller expensive saws are extra light weight. So you can
take them up a tree if you're a climber. I forgot the model but I'm
pretty sure stihl makes one for using up in a tree. When you're on
the side of a tree in spikes you want light.

On Apr 20, 12:25*am, Harry K wrote:
On Apr 19, 5:05*pm, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:32:59 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'va had a mccullough for about 30 years. *Bought under the mongomery
ward label. *Been through a bunch of chains and a whole bunch of
trees. *Got no complaints but don't know how well their recent ones
are. *You're not going to avoid having to adjust the chain. *Chains
stretch. *Spend the extra to get a little bigger one than you think
you need. *You won't regret a little extra power.

I haven't heard that brand name in many years. One brother made a
living with those saws for years and retired.

Well, 30 years ago was jusst about the last years that Mac built real
saws. *They used to be the King of the Hill in the woods.

Harry K

Guess I'll keep mine :-) It's a bit heavy if you have to use it for a
while but with a sharp chain it's eats through a 12" tree log in
seconds.

On Apr 20, 5:11*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Apr 19, 1:37*pm, wrote:

On Apr 18, 10:44*pm, Steve Barker wrote:

A Stihl is a Stihl. *There is no such thing as a "LO-end" Stihl.
There's no such thing as a "home owner type" Stihl. *So yes, go for the
Stihl saw that meets your budget and needs. *Always use the Stihl oil in
the fuel AND on the bar and you won't be disappointed.

Bzzt. Wrong.

Stihl MS290 - retail $349
Stihl MS260 - retail $509

If there weren't different grades of saws, why is the SMALLER saw more
expensive by a long shot?

Some of the smaller expensive saws are extra light weight. *So you can
take them up a tree if you're a climber. *I forgot the model but I'm
pretty sure stihl makes one for using up in a tree. *When you're on
the side of a tree in spikes you want light.

True but the point was the erroneous claim that there is only one
grade of Stihl.

Harry K

Steve Barker wrote:
Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with
diameters from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. Is a low end model with
an 18" chain enough? I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to
adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from
the start was adjusting the chain. I bought it for $50 about 10 years
ago at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. It always
starts in 1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. I'm going to spend
$18 on a new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn.
It'll be nice to have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain
on a new saw get pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when
the bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the
plastic case. I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. Two
bolts to remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar
bolts and for my repair. I got two bolts a little longer than the
originals and welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together
(spaced properly so they would fit in again). It seemed to tighten up
nicely but was in the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts
and plate to where the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts
up again. It worked GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

A Stihl is a Stihl. There is no such thing as a "LO-end" Stihl. There's
no such thing as a "home owner type" Stihl. So yes, go for the Stihl
saw that meets your budget and needs. Always use the Stihl oil in the
fuel AND on the bar and you won't be disappointed.

s

Actually there are 4 distinct "grades" labeled as:

Occasional Use Chain Saws, for around your home.

Mid-Range Chain Saws, for more than just around the home

Professional Use Chain Saws, for well professionals

Tree Service Chain Saws

And two more categories...

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/

Pavel314 wrote:
- Show quoted text -

I have a Stihl and have no complaints about it. I have two chains so
that when one gets dull, I replace it with the other and take the dull
one to be sharpened.

I've found the chain saw file and guide at Lows and Wall Mart very easy
to use and can sharpen a chain in about 5 minutes while on the saw.

hibb wrote:
On Apr 18, 2:37 pm, Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. I'm going to spend $18 on a
new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn. It'll be
nice to have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on a new
saw get pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

I've been meaning to post about my Husqvarna. It hasn't been used a
lot but the last couple of years, when I try to use it I have to
completely purge any old gas from it's system (gas tank, carborator)
and mix up a new fresh batch of gas to get it to start. It won't even
run on a gas mixture that was fresh the previous day.

David

That sucks! Honestly, my 10 or so year old crapsman most always starts
in 1 or 2 pulls, even with 6 month old gasoline. (A lot more when I
forget to turn it on and pull the choke!) I must admit it's been a very
reliable piece of crap!

wrote:
On Apr 18, 10:44 pm, Steve Barker wrote:
A Stihl is a Stihl. There is no such thing as a "LO-end" Stihl.
There's no such thing as a "home owner type" Stihl. So yes, go for the
Stihl saw that meets your budget and needs. Always use the Stihl oil in
the fuel AND on the bar and you won't be disappointed.

Bzzt. Wrong.

Stihl MS290 - retail $349
Stihl MS260 - retail $509

If there weren't different grades of saws, why is the SMALLER saw more
expensive by a long shot?

Yes you are right. Four distinct "grades", then 2 "other" kinds.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/

On 4/20/2010 6:49 AM, ransley wrote:

Look at Echo, their new motors have the longest ratings of engine
life, better than Sthil, and less maintenance by those I see using
them and my dealer that also sells Sthil but recommends Echo, My Sthil
has been repaired none of my Echos have needed repairs, this year I
will buy a few more Echos.

It is all about the purpose (intended use). McCulluch's and Echo's
are great, durable, thrash 'n' throw saws for short duration use and
construction sites. The higher end *Logging* saws are the ticket if
you intend to do a lot of all day cutting where pure balls and speed
of cut are a blessing (both falling and bucking).

A 36 inch, high end saw is a bit much for occasional limb cutting
and such, but you'll love it when you are plowing through an area
and can fell a 12" dia. tree in 30 seconds, then limb the thing
without much bending over, then come back and cut to length in
20 second cuts.

On Apr 20, 9:24*am, Harry K wrote:
True but the point was the erroneous claim that there is only one
grade of Stihl.

Exactly. Stihl says so right on their website... Three grades of saws:

1. Occasional Use
2. Midrange
3. Professional

On Apr 20, 1:05�am, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:32:59 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
I'va had a mccullough for about 30 years. �Bought under the mongomery
ward label. �Been through a bunch of chains and a whole bunch of
trees. �Got no complaints but don't know how well their recent ones
are. �You're not going to avoid having to adjust the chain. �Chains
stretch. �Spend the extra to get a little bigger one than you think
you need. �You won't regret a little extra power.

I haven't heard that brand name in many years. One brother made a
living with those saws for years and retired.

McCullough, very common in the UK. Right down at the cheap end DIY
sort of thing. Wouldn't last for long given serious use.

On Tue, 20 Apr 2010 05:11:06 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

Some of the smaller expensive saws are extra light weight. So you can
take them up a tree if you're a climber. I forgot the model but I'm
pretty sure stihl makes one for using up in a tree. When you're on
the side of a tree in spikes you want light.

My brother, (the only one not named Oren) never hauled a saw up a tree
when he climbed. He took a rope instead. Tossed it over a branch, so
when he was in place I tied the saw on the rope and hoisted it to him.

Hanging from the side a tall tree ... have sharp *spurs*. Drop the
saw and I have it on a rope.

Used the same rope method to lower branches to the ground, to prevent
hitting a roof or such.

The ground man is also in danger...

On Apr 20, 4:50*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2010 05:11:06 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
Some of the smaller expensive saws are extra light weight. *So you can
take them up a tree if you're a climber. *I forgot the model but I'm
pretty sure stihl makes one for using up in a tree. *When you're on
the side of a tree in spikes you want light.

My brother, (the only one not named Oren) never hauled a saw up a tree
when he climbed. *He took a rope instead. Tossed it over a branch, so
when he was in place I tied the saw on the rope and hoisted it to him.

Hanging from the side a tall tree ... have sharp *spurs*. *Drop the
saw and I have it on a rope.

Used the same rope method to lower branches to the ground, to prevent
hitting a roof or such.

The ground man is also in danger...

Most climbers pull the saw up on a rope. You still want a smaller,
light, but still powerful saw if you're up in a tree.

"Tony" wrote in message
...
Steve Barker wrote:
Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust
chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. I'm going to spend
$18 on a new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn.
It'll be nice to have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on
a new saw get pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

A Stihl is a Stihl. There is no such thing as a "LO-end" Stihl. There's
no such thing as a "home owner type" Stihl. So yes, go for the Stihl saw
that meets your budget and needs. Always use the Stihl oil in the fuel
AND on the bar and you won't be disappointed.

s

Actually there are 4 distinct "grades" labeled as:

Occasional Use Chain Saws, for around your home.

Mid-Range Chain Saws, for more than just around the home

Professional Use Chain Saws, for well professionals

Tree Service Chain Saws

And two more categories...

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/

I know this for su when I watch American Loggers, I see some chainsaws
there that I have never ever seen before in any store no matter how big. I
wonder where they buy their stuff.

And, whoo, the way the chips fly with those puppies. I'd be there all day
with my little 18 incher, and that would be with a new blade.

Steve

Visit my blog at www.cabgbypasssurgery.com

Steve B wrote:

"Tony" wrote in message
...
Steve Barker wrote:
Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust
chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. I'm going to spend
$18 on a new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn.
It'll be nice to have as a backup for when I screw up and let a chain on
a new saw get pinched.

If anyone remembers I asked about fixing the crapsman recently when the
bolts that hold the bar and chain started pulling through the plastic
case. I fixed that problem and I'm happy with that fix. Two bolts to
remove the muffler was all it took to gain access to the bar bolts and
for my repair. I got two bolts a little longer than the originals and
welded a plate connecting the two bolt heads together (spaced properly
so they would fit in again). It seemed to tighten up nicely but was in
the way of the muffler, so I then heated the bolts and plate to where
the plastic case was melting and snugged the bolts up again. It worked
GREAT and it's possibly stronger than new!

A Stihl is a Stihl. There is no such thing as a "LO-end" Stihl. There's
no such thing as a "home owner type" Stihl. So yes, go for the Stihl saw
that meets your budget and needs. Always use the Stihl oil in the fuel
AND on the bar and you won't be disappointed.

s

Actually there are 4 distinct "grades" labeled as:

Occasional Use Chain Saws, for around your home.

Mid-Range Chain Saws, for more than just around the home

Professional Use Chain Saws, for well professionals

Tree Service Chain Saws

And two more categories...

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/

I know this for su when I watch American Loggers, I see some chainsaws
there that I have never ever seen before in any store no matter how big. I
wonder where they buy their stuff.

And, whoo, the way the chips fly with those puppies. I'd be there all day
with my little 18 incher, and that would be with a new blade.

They buy their saws from professional power equipment dealers, not big
box stores. The Shindaiwa products I mentioned are not available in big
box stores either.

Oren wrote:

On Tue, 20 Apr 2010 05:11:06 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

Some of the smaller expensive saws are extra light weight. So you can
take them up a tree if you're a climber. I forgot the model but I'm
pretty sure stihl makes one for using up in a tree. When you're on
the side of a tree in spikes you want light.

My brother, (the only one not named Oren) never hauled a saw up a tree
when he climbed. He took a rope instead. Tossed it over a branch, so
when he was in place I tied the saw on the rope and hoisted it to him.

Hanging from the side a tall tree ... have sharp *spurs*. Drop the
saw and I have it on a rope.

Used the same rope method to lower branches to the ground, to prevent
hitting a roof or such.

The ground man is also in danger...

Yes, while I do have a set of tree gaffs and climbing gear, any real
tree work around my place is an excuse to rent an aerial lift for the
day. So much easier to work from a lift and if need be stack a few
branches in the platform with you and then bring them down or over to a
safe drop zone.

Oren;3144566 Wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:32:59 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
jamesgangnc@********** wrote:

I'va had a mccullough for about 30 years. Bought under the mongomery
ward label. Been through a bunch of chains and a whole bunch of
trees. Got no complaints but don't know how well their recent ones
are. You're not going to avoid having to adjust the chain. Chains
stretch. Spend the extra to get a little bigger one than you think
you need. You won't regret a little extra power.

I haven't heard that brand name in many years. One brother made a
living with those saws for years and retired.
When you run it as few times as I do, by the next year the formula to
start it has been forgotten. I want to flip a switch and start it.


--
Dymphna
Message origin: www.TRAVEL.com

On Apr 21, 12:39*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
Steve B wrote:

"Tony" wrote in message
...
Steve Barker wrote:
Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. *How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? *I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. *Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. *Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? *I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust
chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. *I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. * *It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. *I'm going to spend
$18 on a new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn.

On Apr 21, 12:39*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
Steve B wrote:

"Tony" wrote in message
...
Steve Barker wrote:
Tony wrote:
Looking to buy a new chainsaw. *How do the low end home owner type
Stihls hold up? *I'm not normally cutting firewood, but it seems a few
75 foot trees close to the house have to come down each year so I can
sleep at night. *Lets say I cut down about 5 trees a year with diameters
from 12" up to 18", up to 75' tall. *Is a low end model with an 18"
chain enough? *I'd definitely like one with the newer easy to adjust
chain.

I have been using a crapsman/paulon? and the only thing I hated from the
start was adjusting the chain. *I bought it for $50 about 10 years ago
at Sears as a refurbished unit someone returned. * *It always starts in
1 or 2 pulls no matter how long it sits. *I'm going to spend
$18 on a new clutch part, the side with the chain sprocket is worn.

"Vinny From NYC" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 21:15:02 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote Re New Stihl Chainsaw:

For looonngg bars there are the "two power head"adaptations. Power
head on both ends, two operators.

No such thing. It would be nearly impossible to sync the speed of the
two heads.

Golly. I need to go lay down. I saw one of those saws on TV one time on a
logging show. It made such an impression on my mind that I actually
remembered it. But I must have been in an altered state of consciousness,
as you say there is no such thing.

I used to believe in the Statue of Liberty. But one day, during a deep
session in analytical thinking, I reasoned that since I personally, me, had
never personally seen the Statue of Liberty that it does not exist, and must
have been a recreation in some Hollywood backlot. Same with Stonehenge and
the Taj Majal.

I threw away all my National Geographics, and now my life is MUCH simpler.
If I don't see it, it doesn't exist, and people who say these things do
exist have some sinister hidden agenda that I must protect myself from.

I also deleted from my memory banks those old double engine dragsters and
drag bikes that had two engines. Now that you have cleared that up in my
mind, I know that they were some drug and alcohol induced hallucination,
and my mind is much clearer without that information.

I used to reason that if the two engines did not perform exactly the same,
the slower one would slow down the faster one, or that the faster one would
make the slower one go faster. And if they DID actually run at a very close
speed, that the power would be increased dramatically. I also cleared from
my soft hard drive all the thousands of times I have seen machinery with
multiple engines. Oh, dopey me. What WAS I thinking, and what DID I see?

Your mind must be VERY clear. I want to be like you some day.

Steve

Visit my blog at www.cabgbypasssurgery.com