The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and sometimes
overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend the float down
until the water only starts flowing at the proper level. It won't stay set
correctly. After a while - hours or days - the level is too high again. The
float is not leaking. All I can think of is the float is somehow bending
the wirw? Seems impossible - it is hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a way of
being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have to work for
hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave it to me; I'll
find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

TIA


--
"Where there's smoke there's toast!" Anon

On 25 Sep 2013 17:56:37 GMT, KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and sometimes
overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend the float down
until the water only starts flowing at the proper level. It won't stay set
correctly. After a while - hours or days - the level is too high again. The
float is not leaking. All I can think of is the float is somehow bending
the wirw? Seems impossible - it is hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a way of
being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have to work for
hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave it to me; I'll
find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

TIA

Is it possible the float is turning (rotating) some how on the float
arm? Enough to change the water level?

Oren wrote in
:

On 25 Sep 2013 17:56:37 GMT, KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and
sometimes overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend
the float down until the water only starts flowing at the proper
level. It won't stay set correctly. After a while - hours or days -
the level is too high again. The float is not leaking. All I can think
of is the float is somehow bending the wirw? Seems impossible - it is
hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a
way of being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have to
work for hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave it
to me; I'll find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

TIA

Is it possible the float is turning (rotating) some how on the float
arm? Enough to change the water level?


Thanks.

I don't see any sign of it. The float looks the same after the level
chenges.



--
"Where there's smoke there's toast!" Anon

On 25 Sep 2013 18:18:23 GMT, KenK wrote:

Oren wrote in
:

On 25 Sep 2013 17:56:37 GMT, KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and
sometimes overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend
the float down until the water only starts flowing at the proper
level. It won't stay set correctly. After a while - hours or days -
the level is too high again. The float is not leaking. All I can think
of is the float is somehow bending the wirw? Seems impossible - it is
hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a
way of being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have to
work for hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave it
to me; I'll find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

TIA

Is it possible the float is turning (rotating) some how on the float
arm? Enough to change the water level?


Thanks.

I don't see any sign of it. The float looks the same after the level
chenges.

I'd try filling the water level to the desired level (opinion here),
then pushing the float under water and bending the arm down. That
would seem to make the valve close earlier, so water would not reach
the higher level.

You did check the float has no water inside (I presume since you said
it was not leaking)? What if you took the float off and shook it to
see if it has water already inside (sunken float).

(My pool had a faulty filler valve that caused the pool to overfill.
The seller fixed it - replaced, before I bought the house.)

Does the SC valve have an adjustment screw?

On 25 Sep 2013 17:56:37 GMT, KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and sometimes
overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend the float down
until the water only starts flowing at the proper level. It won't stay set
correctly. After a while - hours or days - the level is too high again. The
float is not leaking. All I can think of is the float is somehow bending
the wirw? Seems impossible - it is hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a way of
being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have to work for
hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave it to me; I'll
find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

TIA

You said it yourself, you need to change teh valve assembly. Most
likely the valve rubber washer that seals the seat is hard, cracked
and leaking. This should be a very easy job on a cooler. Worst
possible scenario is you can't unscrew the corroded mounting for the
valve and have to rip out part of the cooler sheet metal to get it
off. Just relocate teh valve to an new spot, drill a new hole and
mount the new valve. But I'd be very surprised if it came to that. If
you are worried about it get some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench and soak
the threads for a couple days before you try and take it apart. These
valves are usually made of brass or plastic and while the build up of
crud on them may look terrible the brass or plastic itself is OK under
the crap and you should be able to get it apart without damaging the
cooler. I have also fixed these types of valves by leaving the valve
body along and just buying a similar new valve and just swapping out
the parts that move. I've done it that way a couple times for the one
in my swimming pool because the valve body was sort of concreted into
place by the idiots who built the pool.

On 25 Sep 2013 18:18:23 GMT, KenK wrote:


Thanks.

I don't see any sign of it. The float looks the same after the level
chenges.

What about the wire, does it look the same?

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

We used to do that with someone's waistband on his pants. First we
made them tighter and tighter, then later looser and looser. Or maybe
that was people on tv.

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:19:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

Don't be silly. If the unit is roof mounted, why would a person do
such a thing?

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 12:13:14 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

You said it yourself, you need to change teh valve assembly.

I'm surprised OP thinks it is still to hot to change the valve. I'm
in the Mojave Desert, turned HVAC off last week, opened a few windows.
Ceiling fans keep us cool at night now.

http://www.reviewjournal.com/weather

Near end of pool season for me.

KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and sometimes
overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend the float down
until the water only starts flowing at the proper level. It won't stay set
correctly. After a while - hours or days - the level is too high again. The
float is not leaking. All I can think of is the float is somehow bending
the wirw? Seems impossible - it is hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a way of
being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have to work for
hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave it to me; I'll
find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

If the float is ok and the float rod is unlikely to be bending, then the
next logical suspect is the valve the float arm connects to. Perhaps the
connection to the arm is slipping, the valve seat is deteriorating or
something else is happening there including perhaps the mounting of the
valve itself that is allowing the shift to occur.

On 9/25/2013 1:15 PM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 12:13:14 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

You said it yourself, you need to change teh valve assembly.

I'm surprised OP thinks it is still to hot to change the valve. I'm
in the Mojave Desert, turned HVAC off last week, opened a few windows.
Ceiling fans keep us cool at night now.

http://www.reviewjournal.com/weather

Near end of pool season for me.


i'm in az too, and it's only in the low 90's now, almost balmy. turned
off the a/c last night. it's been in the high 60s at daybreak, almost
time for heavy coats.

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 12:52:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:19:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

Don't be silly. If the unit is roof mounted, why would a person do
such a thing?

I don't know the people around him, or why they do things. If
someone can murder 12 people in a morning, someone else can bend a
wire over and over. Maybe it's a joke, like adjusting the waistband
of someone's pants. One shouldn't exclude possibilities just
because they seem unlikely.

"KenK" wrote in message
...
The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and sometimes
overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend the float down
until the water only starts flowing at the proper level. It won't stay set
correctly. After a while - hours or days - the level is too high again.
The
float is not leaking. All I can think of is the float is somehow bending
the wirw? Seems impossible - it is hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a way of
being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have to work for
hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave it to me; I'll
find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!


You will probably find the fill valve is passing (ie not closing properly
and letting a small amount od water through.)

On 25 Sep 2013 17:56:37 GMT, KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and sometimes
overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend the float down
until the water only starts flowing at the proper level. It won't stay set
c

What's a Swamp Cooler?

Oren wrote in news:ffa64959d4eultu49ahv5h8tcu1sdv95q8@
4ax.com:

On 25 Sep 2013 18:18:23 GMT, KenK wrote:

Oren wrote in
m:

On 25 Sep 2013 17:56:37 GMT, KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and
sometimes overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend
the float down until the water only starts flowing at the proper
level. It won't stay set correctly. After a while - hours or days -
the level is too high again. The float is not leaking. All I can
think
of is the float is somehow bending the wirw? Seems impossible - it is
hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a
way of being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have
to
work for hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave it
to me; I'll find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

TIA

Is it possible the float is turning (rotating) some how on the float
arm? Enough to change the water level?


Thanks.

I don't see any sign of it. The float looks the same after the level
chenges.

I'd try filling the water level to the desired level (opinion here),
then pushing the float under water and bending the arm down. That
would seem to make the valve close earlier, so water would not reach
the higher level.

That's the way I do it.

You did check the float has no water inside (I presume since you said
it was not leaking)? What if you took the float off and shook it to
see if it has water already inside (sunken float).

Yes, took it off and shook it.

(My pool had a faulty filler valve that caused the pool to overfill.
The seller fixed it - replaced, before I bought the house.)

Does the SC valve have an adjustment screw?

No - just bending the float arm.





--
"Where there's smoke there's toast!" Anon

micky wrote in
:

On 25 Sep 2013 18:18:23 GMT, KenK wrote:


Thanks.

I don't see any sign of it. The float looks the same after the level
chenges.

What about the wire, does it look the same?

Yes. Hard to tell though.

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

No, I live alone.

We used to do that with someone's waistband on his pants. First we
made them tighter and tighter, then later looser and looser. Or maybe
that was people on tv.




--
"Where there's smoke there's toast!" Anon

Oren wrote in news:jkf6499ativvvckq99avolv2j058otuhke@
4ax.com:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:19:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

Don't be silly. If the unit is roof mounted, why would a person do
such a thing?


Actually, it's not. It's a window mount. I don't like them on the roof
because of possible leaks and overflow water damage. Had first one on roof
- never again.


--
"Where there's smoke there's toast!" Anon

"Pete C." wrote in
:


KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and
sometimes overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend
the float down until the water only starts flowing at the proper
level. It won't stay set correctly. After a while - hours or days -
the level is too high again. The float is not leaking. All I can
think of is the float is somehow bending the wirw? Seems impossible -
it is hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a
way of being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have
to work for hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave
it to me; I'll find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

If the float is ok and the float rod is unlikely to be bending, then
the next logical suspect is the valve the float arm connects to.
Perhaps the connection to the arm is slipping, the valve seat is
deteriorating or something else is happening there including perhaps
the mounting of the valve itself that is allowing the shift to occur.


Interesting theory. Not sure how to check. Appears to be all ok; I'll
look again.

Well, it will soon be time to turn off the cooler for the year. I'll have
all winter to replace the valve and I can take a good look at the old one
just out of curiosity.


--
"Where there's smoke there's toast!" Anon

"harryagain" wrote in
:


"KenK" wrote in message
...
The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and
sometimes overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend
the float down until the water only starts flowing at the proper
level. It won't stay set correctly. After a while - hours or days -
the level is too high again. The
float is not leaking. All I can think of is the float is somehow
bending the wirw? Seems impossible - it is hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a
way of being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have
to work for hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave
it to me; I'll find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!


You will probably find the fill valve is passing (ie not closing
properly and letting a small amount od water through.)




You may well be right! I didn't notice any trickle but it could be very
small.



--
"Where there's smoke there's toast!" Anon

On 26 Sep 2013 16:50:55 GMT, KenK wrote:

Oren wrote in news:ffa64959d4eultu49ahv5h8tcu1sdv95q8@
4ax.com:

On 25 Sep 2013 18:18:23 GMT, KenK wrote:

Oren wrote in
:

On 25 Sep 2013 17:56:37 GMT, KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and
sometimes overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend
the float down until the water only starts flowing at the proper
level. It won't stay set correctly. After a while - hours or days -
the level is too high again. The float is not leaking. All I can
think
of is the float is somehow bending the wirw? Seems impossible - it is
hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in cooling
season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These things have a
way of being a lot more trouble than expected. I don't want to have
to
work for hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave it
to me; I'll find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

TIA

Is it possible the float is turning (rotating) some how on the float
arm? Enough to change the water level?


Thanks.

I don't see any sign of it. The float looks the same after the level
chenges.

I'd try filling the water level to the desired level (opinion here),
then pushing the float under water and bending the arm down. That
would seem to make the valve close earlier, so water would not reach
the higher level.

That's the way I do it.

You did check the float has no water inside (I presume since you said
it was not leaking)? What if you took the float off and shook it to
see if it has water already inside (sunken float).

Yes, took it off and shook it.

(My pool had a faulty filler valve that caused the pool to overfill.
The seller fixed it - replaced, before I bought the house.)

Does the SC valve have an adjustment screw?

No - just bending the float arm.



For the price of a new valve (with arm and float) and ease of
replacement, the _best_ fix to just replace the valve (IMO).

A few minutes to replace it and a short while to adjust it to stop the
overfilling.

http://0.tqn.com/d/plumbing/1/0/k/3/-/-/new_valve.jpg

On 26 Sep 2013 16:59:38 GMT, KenK wrote:


If the float is ok and the float rod is unlikely to be bending, then
the next logical suspect is the valve the float arm connects to.
Perhaps the connection to the arm is slipping, the valve seat is
deteriorating or something else is happening there including perhaps
the mounting of the valve itself that is allowing the shift to occur.


Interesting theory. Not sure how to check. Appears to be all ok; I'll
look again.

Well, it will soon be time to turn off the cooler for the year. I'll have
all winter to replace the valve and I can take a good look at the old one
just out of curiosity.


Hard water might be an issue, perhaps, the valve is sticking from
minerals (salts, calcium, etc).

I imagine you do an annual cleaning and inspection.

On 26 Sep 2013 16:54:29 GMT, KenK wrote:

Actually, it's not. It's a window mount. I don't like them on the roof
because of possible leaks and overflow water damage. Had first one on roof
- never again.

+1

A fellow I know had leaks and ceiling damage from a roof mounted unit.
More difficult to climb on the roof and do annual maintenance and
cleaning.

Oren wrote in
:

On 26 Sep 2013 16:59:38 GMT, KenK wrote:


If the float is ok and the float rod is unlikely to be bending, then
the next logical suspect is the valve the float arm connects to.
Perhaps the connection to the arm is slipping, the valve seat is
deteriorating or something else is happening there including perhaps
the mounting of the valve itself that is allowing the shift to
occur.


Interesting theory. Not sure how to check. Appears to be all ok; I'll
look again.

Well, it will soon be time to turn off the cooler for the year. I'll
have all winter to replace the valve and I can take a good look at the
old one just out of curiosity.


Hard water might be an issue, perhaps, the valve is sticking from
minerals (salts, calcium, etc).

Pussibly. My well water is certainly very hard.

I imagine you do an annual cleaning and inspection.

Yes. New pads. Scrape out water reservoir. Etc. Not my favorite chore.




--
"Where there's smoke there's toast!" Anon

Oren wrote in
:

On 26 Sep 2013 16:50:55 GMT, KenK wrote:

Oren wrote in
news:ffa64959d4eultu49ahv5h8tcu1sdv95q8@ 4ax.com:

On 25 Sep 2013 18:18:23 GMT, KenK wrote:

Oren wrote in
m:

On 25 Sep 2013 17:56:37 GMT, KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and
sometimes overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I
bend the float down until the water only starts flowing at the
proper level. It won't stay set correctly. After a while - hours
or days - the level is too high again. The float is not leaking.
All I can
think
of is the float is somehow bending the wirw? Seems impossible - it
is hard to bend.

Suggestions?

Yes, I know, change the valve assembly. However, I'm still in
cooling season here in AZ and hate to try to change it. These
things have a way of being a lot more trouble than expected. I
don't want to have
to
work for hours in the hot sun. What could possibly go wrong? Leave
it to me; I'll find something!

In some thirty years I never had this problem before!

TIA

Is it possible the float is turning (rotating) some how on the
float arm? Enough to change the water level?


Thanks.

I don't see any sign of it. The float looks the same after the level
chenges.

I'd try filling the water level to the desired level (opinion here),
then pushing the float under water and bending the arm down. That
would seem to make the valve close earlier, so water would not reach
the higher level.

That's the way I do it.

You did check the float has no water inside (I presume since you
said it was not leaking)? What if you took the float off and shook
it to see if it has water already inside (sunken float).

Yes, took it off and shook it.

(My pool had a faulty filler valve that caused the pool to overfill.
The seller fixed it - replaced, before I bought the house.)

Does the SC valve have an adjustment screw?

No - just bending the float arm.



For the price of a new valve (with arm and float) and ease of
replacement, the _best_ fix to just replace the valve (IMO).

A few minutes to replace it and a short while to adjust it to stop the
overfilling.

http://0.tqn.com/d/plumbing/1/0/k/3/-/-/new_valve.jpg



As I mentioned, in a week or two when it cools off. I can live with it
until then



--
"Where there's smoke there's toast!" Anon

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 02:53:41 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 12:52:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:19:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

Don't be silly. If the unit is roof mounted, why would a person do
such a thing?

I don't know the people around him, or why they do things. If
someone can murder 12 people in a morning, someone else can bend a
wire over and over. Maybe it's a joke, like adjusting the waistband
of someone's pants. One shouldn't exclude possibilities just
because they seem unlikely.

The possibility of being hit by an asteroid is so small that I don't
consider the possibility when I get up in the morning. Do you?

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 15:10:08 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 02:53:41 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 12:52:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:19:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

Don't be silly. If the unit is roof mounted, why would a person do
such a thing?

I don't know the people around him, or why they do things. If
someone can murder 12 people in a morning, someone else can bend a
wire over and over. Maybe it's a joke, like adjusting the waistband
of someone's pants. One shouldn't exclude possibilities just
because they seem unlikely.

The possibility of being hit by an asteroid is so small that I don't
consider the possibility when I get up in the morning. Do you?

He has a problem that needs solving, a mystery. He needs to consider
every possibility.

When I wake up in the morning, I don't have a problem that needs
solving and certainly not a mystery.

And the odds that a friend is goofing on him are many orders of
magnitude higher than the odds of being hit by an asteroid.


2) Another possibility is that the OP bends it, but it slowly springs
back to where it was. All by itself. The original rod was designed
not to do this, but maybe it's not the right rod for some reason.

Either way, the angle or something shoudl be measured.

3) I'd just keep bending the rod more and more, until that stops
working or the weather is cooler.

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 18:33:15 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 15:10:08 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 02:53:41 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 12:52:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:19:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

Don't be silly. If the unit is roof mounted, why would a person do
such a thing?

I don't know the people around him, or why they do things. If
someone can murder 12 people in a morning, someone else can bend a
wire over and over. Maybe it's a joke, like adjusting the waistband
of someone's pants. One shouldn't exclude possibilities just
because they seem unlikely.

The possibility of being hit by an asteroid is so small that I don't
consider the possibility when I get up in the morning. Do you?

He has a problem that needs solving, a mystery. He needs to consider
every possibility.

*EVERY* possibility? I don't think so.

When I wake up in the morning, I don't have a problem that needs
solving and certainly not a mystery.

Seems you don't take your own advice.

And the odds that a friend is goofing on him are many orders of
magnitude higher than the odds of being hit by an asteroid.

You really must have some nasty "friends".

irrelevant babble snipped

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 20:08:57 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 18:33:15 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 15:10:08 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 02:53:41 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 12:52:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:19:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

Don't be silly. If the unit is roof mounted, why would a person do
such a thing?

I don't know the people around him, or why they do things. If
someone can murder 12 people in a morning, someone else can bend a
wire over and over. Maybe it's a joke, like adjusting the waistband
of someone's pants. One shouldn't exclude possibilities just
because they seem unlikely.

The possibility of being hit by an asteroid is so small that I don't
consider the possibility when I get up in the morning. Do you?

He has a problem that needs solving, a mystery. He needs to consider
every possibility.

*EVERY* possibility? I don't think so.

I do.

When I wake up in the morning, I don't have a problem that needs
solving and certainly not a mystery.

Seems you don't take your own advice.

??

And the odds that a friend is goofing on him are many orders of
magnitude higher than the odds of being hit by an asteroid.

You really must have some nasty "friends".

A) This says nothing about the kind of friends I have. I don't even
have a swamp cooler.

B) What it does say is how unlikely it is to be hit by an asteroid.
And I'll add, how little one can do about it. If he were to figure
out that his friend was goofing on him, he'd tell him he figured it
out, everyone would laugh, and the friend would stop.

C) If the friend is just goofing on him, it's not nasty.

irrelevant babble snipped

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 05:11:24 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 20:08:57 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 18:33:15 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 15:10:08 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 02:53:41 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 12:52:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:19:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

Don't be silly. If the unit is roof mounted, why would a person do
such a thing?

I don't know the people around him, or why they do things. If
someone can murder 12 people in a morning, someone else can bend a
wire over and over. Maybe it's a joke, like adjusting the waistband
of someone's pants. One shouldn't exclude possibilities just
because they seem unlikely.

The possibility of being hit by an asteroid is so small that I don't
consider the possibility when I get up in the morning. Do you?

He has a problem that needs solving, a mystery. He needs to consider
every possibility.

*EVERY* possibility? I don't think so.

I do.

Now we know you're lying.

When I wake up in the morning, I don't have a problem that needs
solving and certainly not a mystery.

Seems you don't take your own advice.

??

You didn't solve all the problems, obviously.

And the odds that a friend is goofing on him are many orders of
magnitude higher than the odds of being hit by an asteroid.

You really must have some nasty "friends".

A) This says nothing about the kind of friends I have. I don't even
have a swamp cooler.

Well, the alternative is that you're incredibly paranoid.

B) What it does say is how unlikely it is to be hit by an asteroid.
And I'll add, how little one can do about it. If he were to figure
out that his friend was goofing on him, he'd tell him he figured it
out, everyone would laugh, and the friend would stop.

But you just got through saying that you think of everything.

C) If the friend is just goofing on him, it's not nasty.

Leaks aren't nasty?

irrelevant babble snipped

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 13:57:50 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 05:11:24 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 20:08:57 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 18:33:15 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 15:10:08 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 02:53:41 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 12:52:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 25 Sep 2013 15:19:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

Maybe you're bending it, and when you're not around, someone is
bending it back.

Don't be silly. If the unit is roof mounted, why would a person do
such a thing?

I don't know the people around him, or why they do things. If
someone can murder 12 people in a morning, someone else can bend a
wire over and over. Maybe it's a joke, like adjusting the waistband
of someone's pants. One shouldn't exclude possibilities just
because they seem unlikely.

The possibility of being hit by an asteroid is so small that I don't
consider the possibility when I get up in the morning. Do you?

He has a problem that needs solving, a mystery. He needs to consider
every possibility.

*EVERY* possibility? I don't think so.

I do.

Now we know you're lying.

How easily some people insult others. I'm not lying. When I have a
mystery problem, until I know the reason for it, I try to consider
every possible reason for it. Of course there is no way to know if
one has considered every possibiltiy

When I wake up in the morning, I don't have a problem that needs
solving and certainly not a mystery.

Seems you don't take your own advice.

??

You didn't solve all the problems, obviously.

a) How do you know that?
b) I never said I did. I said he needs to consider every
possibility, and when I have a mystery problem, I try to consider
every possibility. That doesn't mean I'll think of every one, but
more importantly, even finding the right reason for the problem does
not mean someone will solve the problem. I want to take 3 years off
and travel around the world. And I don't want to stay in group
hostels on this trip. The problem is I don't have the money. Knowing
the problem doesn't solve the problem.

And the odds that a friend is goofing on him are many orders of
magnitude higher than the odds of being hit by an asteroid.

You really must have some nasty "friends".

A) This says nothing about the kind of friends I have. I don't even
have a swamp cooler.

Well, the alternative is that you're incredibly paranoid.

No. It was a hypothetical, and I didn't mention myself or my friends.
It's the OP who has a problem with the swamp cooler.


B) What it does say is how unlikely it is to be hit by an asteroid.
And I'll add, how little one can do about it. If he were to figure
out that his friend was goofing on him, he'd tell him he figured it
out, everyone would laugh, and the friend would stop.

But you just got through saying that you think of everything.

I never said that, and I think you must be a sloppy reader to keep
saying I said things I haven't said. I said that "he needs to
consider every possibility." That doesn't mean he *or I* have thought
of every possible reason his swamp cooler is causing problems.

C) If the friend is just goofing on him, it's not nasty.

Leaks aren't nasty?

It depends on what it leaks on. It might have an overflow that
routes overflows to some harmless location. Or a friend who is
playing with him might not realize that it's actually overflowing
enough to cause damage. The OP didn't say it was causing damage.

Even if the leak turns out to be nasty, that's not enough to say his
friend is nasty. It depends on the friend's intention.

irrelevant babble snipped

On Thu, 26 Sep 2013 04:47:53 -0500, wrote:

On 25 Sep 2013 17:56:37 GMT, KenK wrote:

The water level in my swamp cooler is consistantly too high and sometimes
overflows. The valve has a thick wire to the float. I bend the float down
until the water only starts flowing at the proper level. It won't stay set
c

What's a Swamp Cooler?

LOL. Perfect timing,

AIUI, it's a device with a fan that blows hot air over a pan filled
with water. The water evaporates by pulling heat from the air, so the
air becomes more humid but cooler. In places where it's hot but the
air is very dry, it's cheaper to buy and to run and works as well
(almost as well?) as an air conditioner with a compressor, condenser,
and evaporator. And you get to leave your windows open. That's New
Mexico, Arizona, and in all directions from there. I saw one in Las
Vegas. If the humidity goes from 10% to 30% or more it is still
not too humid for people to be comfortable, but the air temperature
has dropped 10 or 20 degrees or more.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swamp_cooler

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0400, micky
wrote:

What's a Swamp Cooler?

LOL. Perfect timing,

AIUI, it's a device with a fan that blows hot air over a pan filled
with water. The water evaporates by pulling heat from the air, so the
air becomes more humid but cooler. In places where it's hot but the
air is very dry, it's cheaper to buy and to run and works as well
(almost as well?) as an air conditioner with a compressor, condenser,
and evaporator. And you get to leave your windows open. That's New
Mexico, Arizona, and in all directions from there. I saw one in Las
Vegas. If the humidity goes from 10% to 30% or more it is still
not too humid for people to be comfortable, but the air temperature
has dropped 10 or 20 degrees or more.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swamp_cooler

Almost correct. Water is pumped from the pan above pads that drain
back to the pan (non-evaporated water that circulates routinely).

Generally, ONE window is kept slightly open, as you suggest. The
humility inside will feel cool to the skin. Swamps coolers
(fans/evaporative coolers) are not always effective, they loose
effectiveness when the outside humility reaches ~ 40 %.

There are many types: for the home - permanent mounts, for a shop/
garage, warehouses, outside, etc. The portable ones can be moved
around at your leisure.

Sample of the circulation: (there are three pads to pull the hot air
in and cool). House units actually use duct work like HVAC systems). A
side wall mount or portable unit would not need the duct work.

http://energydesignresources.com/media/126393/evapcooler-ds-large.gif

Some images of types:

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=swamp+coolers&FORM=HDRSC2

As mentioned before, an annual cleaning and service is required.

On 9/27/2013 12:58 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0400, micky
wrote:

What's a Swamp Cooler?

LOL. Perfect timing,

AIUI, it's a device with a fan that blows hot air over a pan filled
with water. The water evaporates by pulling heat from the air, so the
air becomes more humid but cooler. In places where it's hot but the
air is very dry, it's cheaper to buy and to run and works as well
(almost as well?) as an air conditioner with a compressor, condenser,
and evaporator. And you get to leave your windows open. That's New
Mexico, Arizona, and in all directions from there. I saw one in Las
Vegas. If the humidity goes from 10% to 30% or more it is still
not too humid for people to be comfortable, but the air temperature
has dropped 10 or 20 degrees or more.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swamp_cooler

Almost correct. Water is pumped from the pan above pads that drain
back to the pan (non-evaporated water that circulates routinely).

Generally, ONE window is kept slightly open, as you suggest. The
humility inside will feel cool to the skin. Swamps coolers
(fans/evaporative coolers) are not always effective, they loose
effectiveness when the outside humility reaches ~ 40 %.

then there's up-dux, which keep your attic cooler, which also has a
cooling affect on the house

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 13:23:39 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

Generally, ONE window is kept slightly open, as you suggest. The
humility inside will feel cool to the skin. Swamps coolers
(fans/evaporative coolers) are not always effective, they loose
effectiveness when the outside humility reaches ~ 40 %.

then there's up-dux, which keep your attic cooler, which also has a
cooling affect on the house

Interesting. I'm not familiar with that approach. I imagine it would
not work in places that are not in arid climates like the desert
southwest.

On 9/27/2013 1:39 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 13:23:39 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

Generally, ONE window is kept slightly open, as you suggest. The
humility inside will feel cool to the skin. Swamps coolers
(fans/evaporative coolers) are not always effective, they loose
effectiveness when the outside humility reaches ~ 40 %.

then there's up-dux, which keep your attic cooler, which also has a
cooling affect on the house

Interesting. I'm not familiar with that approach. I imagine it would
not work in places that are not in arid climates like the desert
southwest.


no, up-dux are used in places with swamp coolers. that way, the cooled
humid air goes up into the attic rather than out an open window/door.
better for house security too, in case you're in a neighborhood where
you can't leave something open at night.

https://www.dialmfg.com/HighDefPictures/7607.jpg

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 13:46:26 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

then there's up-dux, which keep your attic cooler, which also has a
cooling affect on the house

Interesting. I'm not familiar with that approach. I imagine it would
not work in places that are not in arid climates like the desert
southwest.


no, up-dux are used in places with swamp coolers. that way, the cooled
humid air goes up into the attic rather than out an open window/door.
better for house security too, in case you're in a neighborhood where
you can't leave something open at night.

https://www.dialmfg.com/HighDefPictures/7607.jpg

This (up dux) is a passive system? Has just an "aluminum barometric
damper lid"?.

What makes the damper open / close?

PDF: (install instructions)

https://www.dialmfg.com/Technical%20Assistance/TECHINICAL%20PDF%20DOCUMENTS/Updux%20Instructions%20112202.pdf

On 9/27/2013 2:28 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 13:46:26 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

then there's up-dux, which keep your attic cooler, which also has a
cooling affect on the house

Interesting. I'm not familiar with that approach. I imagine it would
not work in places that are not in arid climates like the desert
southwest.


no, up-dux are used in places with swamp coolers. that way, the cooled
humid air goes up into the attic rather than out an open window/door.
better for house security too, in case you're in a neighborhood where
you can't leave something open at night.

https://www.dialmfg.com/HighDefPictures/7607.jpg

This (up dux) is a passive system? Has just an "aluminum barometric
damper lid"?.

What makes the damper open / close?

PDF: (install instructions)

https://www.dialmfg.com/Technical%20Assistance/TECHINICAL%20PDF%20DOCUMENTS/Updux%20Instructions%20112202.pdf


when the swamp cooler kicks on, the air pressure in the house goes up
(if all the windows/doors are closed). the flap is very light, hinged on
one side, and has a preventer so it can't open all the way. it flips
part way open to relieve the pressure. the higher power the squirrel fan
in the SC is, the more up-dux you need. the air then goes out the normal
attic vents.

use of these makes it almost bearable to work in the attic in the summer.

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 14:40:29 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

On 9/27/2013 2:28 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 13:46:26 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

then there's up-dux, which keep your attic cooler, which also has a
cooling affect on the house

Interesting. I'm not familiar with that approach. I imagine it would
not work in places that are not in arid climates like the desert
southwest.


no, up-dux are used in places with swamp coolers. that way, the cooled
humid air goes up into the attic rather than out an open window/door.
better for house security too, in case you're in a neighborhood where
you can't leave something open at night.

https://www.dialmfg.com/HighDefPictures/7607.jpg

This (up dux) is a passive system? Has just an "aluminum barometric
damper lid"?.

What makes the damper open / close?

PDF: (install instructions)

https://www.dialmfg.com/Technical%20Assistance/TECHINICAL%20PDF%20DOCUMENTS/Updux%20Instructions%20112202.pdf


when the swamp cooler kicks on, the air pressure in the house goes up
(if all the windows/doors are closed). the flap is very light, hinged on
one side, and has a preventer so it can't open all the way. it flips
part way open to relieve the pressure. the higher power the squirrel fan
in the SC is, the more up-dux you need. the air then goes out the normal
attic vents.


Kewl

use of these makes it almost bearable to work in the attic in the summer.

I'm allergic to work g

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 12:58:33 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 14:41:27 -0400, micky
wrote:

What's a Swamp Cooler?

LOL. Perfect timing,

AIUI, it's a device with a fan that blows hot air over a pan filled
with water. The water evaporates by pulling heat from the air, so the
air becomes more humid but cooler. In places where it's hot but the
air is very dry, it's cheaper to buy and to run and works as well
(almost as well?) as an air conditioner with a compressor, condenser,
and evaporator. And you get to leave your windows open. That's New
Mexico, Arizona, and in all directions from there. I saw one in Las
Vegas. If the humidity goes from 10% to 30% or more it is still
not too humid for people to be comfortable, but the air temperature
has dropped 10 or 20 degrees or more.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swamp_cooler

Almost correct. Water is pumped from the pan above pads that drain
back to the pan (non-evaporated water that circulates routinely).

Any chance the only one I've ever seen, in Las Vegas, 45 years ago,
worked the way I said, just using a pan, no pads??



Generally, ONE window is kept slightly open, as you suggest. The
humility inside will feel cool to the skin. Swamps coolers
(fans/evaporative coolers) are not always effective, they loose
effectiveness when the outside humility reaches ~ 40 %.

There are many types: for the home - permanent mounts, for a shop/
garage, warehouses, outside, etc. The portable ones can be moved
around at your leisure.

Sample of the circulation: (there are three pads to pull the hot air
in and cool). House units actually use duct work like HVAC systems). A
side wall mount or portable unit would not need the duct work.

http://energydesignresources.com/media/126393/evapcooler-ds-large.gif

Some images of types:

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=swamp+coolers&FORM=HDRSC2

As mentioned before, an annual cleaning and service is required.

On Sat, 28 Sep 2013 02:17:45 -0400, micky
wrote:

Any chance the only one I've ever seen, in Las Vegas, 45 years ago,
worked the way I said, just using a pan, no pads??

Maybe.