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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

My gas dryer had been acting up recently. The clothes would almost dry, but
with a front load washer they are not all that wet anyway. Still, it didn't
seem like the heat was staying on very long.

The other 2 symptoms were these:

1 - On the Timed settings, both heated and air fluff, the timers would
advanced normally. However, on the Auto-Sense settings (high heat or low)
the timer would advance to about halfway through the range on the dial and
then stop. The dryer would then run continuously with no heat, even for
hours at a time, until we manually shut it off.

2 - Regardless of what setting we would use, we always had to wait at least
15 minutes after the dryer shut off before the burner would come on. If we
tried to start the dryer right after the last load, the drum would spin,
the normal click would be heard after about 15 seconds, but the "whoosh" of
the burner coming on wouldn't be heard. If we let the dryer sit for about
15 minutes, we'd get the 15 seconds of spinning and then "click-whoosh" as
the burner came on.

A little research seemed to point to the gas valve solenoids as a possible
cause. If the gas turned off too soon, the clothes wouldn't dry completely
so the Auto-Sensing mode might not trigger the dial to advance. However, in
Timed mode, the timer would advance normally since that setting doesn't
care if the clothes are dry or not. That makes sense.

A local parts store had the solenoid pair for $30, so I swapped them in and
the dryer worked perfectly after that.

Everything seems to make sense except for the 15 minute wait time between
cycles. What in the gas valve solenoid circuitry, or in a solenoid itself,
would cause the dryer to need 15 minutes of rest before the gas would come
back on? In either mode, Timed or Auto-Sense, the dryer had more than
enough time to cool down since the gas turned off soon after the cycle
started. So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

Congrats on the good fix.

I don't know why that is, can't help. But, I'm cheering
for you.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/24/2013 3:32 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My gas dryer had been acting up recently. The clothes would almost dry, but
with a front load washer they are not all that wet anyway. Still, it didn't
seem like the heat was staying on very long.

The other 2 symptoms were these:

1 - On the Timed settings, both heated and air fluff, the timers would
advanced normally. However, on the Auto-Sense settings (high heat or low)
the timer would advance to about halfway through the range on the dial and
then stop. The dryer would then run continuously with no heat, even for
hours at a time, until we manually shut it off.

2 - Regardless of what setting we would use, we always had to wait at least
15 minutes after the dryer shut off before the burner would come on. If we
tried to start the dryer right after the last load, the drum would spin,
the normal click would be heard after about 15 seconds, but the "whoosh" of
the burner coming on wouldn't be heard. If we let the dryer sit for about
15 minutes, we'd get the 15 seconds of spinning and then "click-whoosh" as
the burner came on.

A little research seemed to point to the gas valve solenoids as a possible
cause. If the gas turned off too soon, the clothes wouldn't dry completely
so the Auto-Sensing mode might not trigger the dial to advance. However, in
Timed mode, the timer would advance normally since that setting doesn't
care if the clothes are dry or not. That makes sense.

A local parts store had the solenoid pair for $30, so I swapped them in and
the dryer worked perfectly after that.

Everything seems to make sense except for the 15 minute wait time between
cycles. What in the gas valve solenoid circuitry, or in a solenoid itself,
would cause the dryer to need 15 minutes of rest before the gas would come
back on? In either mode, Timed or Auto-Sense, the dryer had more than
enough time to cool down since the gas turned off soon after the cycle
started. So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?

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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 19:32:08 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

My gas dryer had been acting up recently. The clothes would almost dry, but
with a front load washer they are not all that wet anyway. Still, it didn't
seem like the heat was staying on very long.

The other 2 symptoms were these:

1 - On the Timed settings, both heated and air fluff, the timers would
advanced normally. However, on the Auto-Sense settings (high heat or low)
the timer would advance to about halfway through the range on the dial and
then stop. The dryer would then run continuously with no heat, even for
hours at a time, until we manually shut it off.

2 - Regardless of what setting we would use, we always had to wait at least
15 minutes after the dryer shut off before the burner would come on. If we
tried to start the dryer right after the last load, the drum would spin,
the normal click would be heard after about 15 seconds, but the "whoosh" of
the burner coming on wouldn't be heard. If we let the dryer sit for about
15 minutes, we'd get the 15 seconds of spinning and then "click-whoosh" as
the burner came on.

A little research seemed to point to the gas valve solenoids as a possible
cause. If the gas turned off too soon, the clothes wouldn't dry completely
so the Auto-Sensing mode might not trigger the dial to advance. However, in
Timed mode, the timer would advance normally since that setting doesn't
care if the clothes are dry or not. That makes sense.

A local parts store had the solenoid pair for $30, so I swapped them in and
the dryer worked perfectly after that.

Everything seems to make sense except for the 15 minute wait time between
cycles. What in the gas valve solenoid circuitry, or in a solenoid itself,
would cause the dryer to need 15 minutes of rest before the gas would come
back on? In either mode, Timed or Auto-Sense, the dryer had more than
enough time to cool down since the gas turned off soon after the cycle
started. So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?

The solenoid failed hot and had to cool down before it regained
continuity.
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 3:32:08 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My gas dryer had been acting up recently. The clothes would almost dry, but

with a front load washer they are not all that wet anyway. Still, it didn't

seem like the heat was staying on very long.



The other 2 symptoms were these:



1 - On the Timed settings, both heated and air fluff, the timers would

advanced normally. However, on the Auto-Sense settings (high heat or low)

the timer would advance to about halfway through the range on the dial and

then stop. The dryer would then run continuously with no heat, even for

hours at a time, until we manually shut it off.



2 - Regardless of what setting we would use, we always had to wait at least

15 minutes after the dryer shut off before the burner would come on. If we

tried to start the dryer right after the last load, the drum would spin,

the normal click would be heard after about 15 seconds, but the "whoosh" of

the burner coming on wouldn't be heard. If we let the dryer sit for about

15 minutes, we'd get the 15 seconds of spinning and then "click-whoosh" as

the burner came on.



A little research seemed to point to the gas valve solenoids as a possible

cause. If the gas turned off too soon, the clothes wouldn't dry completely

so the Auto-Sensing mode might not trigger the dial to advance. However, in

Timed mode, the timer would advance normally since that setting doesn't

care if the clothes are dry or not. That makes sense.



A local parts store had the solenoid pair for $30, so I swapped them in and

the dryer worked perfectly after that.



Everything seems to make sense except for the 15 minute wait time between

cycles. What in the gas valve solenoid circuitry, or in a solenoid itself,

would cause the dryer to need 15 minutes of rest before the gas would come

back on? In either mode, Timed or Auto-Sense, the dryer had more than

enough time to cool down since the gas turned off soon after the cycle

started. So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes

before the gas would turn back on?


Safety. It wants to make sure that if because of some other failure the area filled with gas it wouldn't just try to ignite it and blow up your dryer.
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

wrote:
On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 19:32:08 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

My gas dryer had been acting up recently. The clothes would almost dry, but
with a front load washer they are not all that wet anyway. Still, it didn't
seem like the heat was staying on very long.

The other 2 symptoms were these:

1 - On the Timed settings, both heated and air fluff, the timers would
advanced normally. However, on the Auto-Sense settings (high heat or low)
the timer would advance to about halfway through the range on the dial and
then stop. The dryer would then run continuously with no heat, even for
hours at a time, until we manually shut it off.

2 - Regardless of what setting we would use, we always had to wait at least
15 minutes after the dryer shut off before the burner would come on. If we
tried to start the dryer right after the last load, the drum would spin,
the normal click would be heard after about 15 seconds, but the "whoosh" of
the burner coming on wouldn't be heard. If we let the dryer sit for about
15 minutes, we'd get the 15 seconds of spinning and then "click-whoosh" as
the burner came on.

A little research seemed to point to the gas valve solenoids as a possible
cause. If the gas turned off too soon, the clothes wouldn't dry completely
so the Auto-Sensing mode might not trigger the dial to advance. However, in
Timed mode, the timer would advance normally since that setting doesn't
care if the clothes are dry or not. That makes sense.

A local parts store had the solenoid pair for $30, so I swapped them in and
the dryer worked perfectly after that.

Everything seems to make sense except for the 15 minute wait time between
cycles. What in the gas valve solenoid circuitry, or in a solenoid itself,
would cause the dryer to need 15 minutes of rest before the gas would come
back on? In either mode, Timed or Auto-Sense, the dryer had more than
enough time to cool down since the gas turned off soon after the cycle
started. So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?

The solenoid failed hot and had to cool down before it regained
continuity.


If it failed hot, would it retain the temperature for the entire time the
dryer was running with no heat? When the problem first started we weren't
monitoring the dryer very closely and it would sometimes run for hours.
Early on I put a load in before I went to bed and it was still spinning
when I got up. If nothing else, it kept the clothes from wrinkling. ;-)

Shouldn't the 'noid have cooled off by then or did the power alone keep it
hot?


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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

jamesgang wrote:
On Tuesday, September 24, 2013 3:32:08 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My gas dryer had been acting up recently. The clothes would almost dry, but
with a front load washer they are not all that wet anyway. Still, it didn't
seem like the heat was staying on very long.

The other 2 symptoms were these:

1 - On the Timed settings, both heated and air fluff, the timers would
advanced normally. However, on the Auto-Sense settings (high heat or low)
the timer would advance to about halfway through the range on the dial and
then stop. The dryer would then run continuously with no heat, even for
hours at a time, until we manually shut it off.

2 - Regardless of what setting we would use, we always had to wait at least
15 minutes after the dryer shut off before the burner would come on. If we
tried to start the dryer right after the last load, the drum would spin,
the normal click would be heard after about 15 seconds, but the "whoosh" of
the burner coming on wouldn't be heard. If we let the dryer sit for about
15 minutes, we'd get the 15 seconds of spinning and then "click-whoosh" as
the burner came on.

A little research seemed to point to the gas valve solenoids as a possible
cause. If the gas turned off too soon, the clothes wouldn't dry completely
so the Auto-Sensing mode might not trigger the dial to advance. However, in
Timed mode, the timer would advance normally since that setting doesn't
care if the clothes are dry or not. That makes sense.

A local parts store had the solenoid pair for $30, so I swapped them in and
the dryer worked perfectly after that.

Everything seems to make sense except for the 15 minute wait time between
cycles. What in the gas valve solenoid circuitry, or in a solenoid itself,
would cause the dryer to need 15 minutes of rest before the gas would come
back on? In either mode, Timed or Auto-Sense, the dryer had more than
enough time to cool down since the gas turned off soon after the cycle
started. So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?


Safety. It wants to make sure that if because of some other failure the
area filled with gas it wouldn't just try to ignite it and blow up your dryer.


Thanks, but I doubt it. Using time as a means to ensure the gas has
dissipated doesn't seem like a very safe method.

Besides that would imply more intelligence than my very basic dryer has.
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

DerbyDad03 wrote:

So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?


Most likely because there was nothing wrong with the solenoid. More likely you
had a problem with the hi temp limit switch. Either the switch was failing, or
there was enough lint in the vent that the burner was causing the switch to
trip. Mucking around with the solenoid either tapped the switch enough that it
started working again, or you cleaned the vent as a part of changing the
solenoid. Either way, you're likely to see the real problem recur.
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

I wonder if his dryer has a self resetting
limit switch? Some are fusible links, and
don't reset in 15 mins.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/24/2013 7:11 PM, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?


Most likely because there was nothing wrong with the solenoid. More likely you
had a problem with the hi temp limit switch. Either the switch was failing, or
there was enough lint in the vent that the burner was causing the switch to
trip. Mucking around with the solenoid either tapped the switch enough that it
started working again, or you cleaned the vent as a part of changing the
solenoid. Either way, you're likely to see the real problem recur.

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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?


Most likely because there was nothing wrong with the solenoid. More likely you
had a problem with the hi temp limit switch. Either the switch was failing, or
there was enough lint in the vent that the burner was causing the switch to
trip. Mucking around with the solenoid either tapped the switch enough that it
started working again, or you cleaned the vent as a part of changing the
solenoid. Either way, you're likely to see the real problem recur.


The ohmmeter reading on one of the old solenoids vs. the matching new one
was different.

One pair matched, one pair didn't. That was enough to tell me that
something was wrong with the solenoid.

While I did clean the innards of the dryer around the burner and motor
while I had the front off last night, the venting and internal ductwork was
cleaned weeks ago when the problem first started. That is something I do on
a roughly annual basis.

We'll see if you're right but obviously I hope you're wrong.
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 21:49:26 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 19:32:08 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

My gas dryer had been acting up recently. The clothes would almost dry, but
with a front load washer they are not all that wet anyway. Still, it didn't
seem like the heat was staying on very long.

The other 2 symptoms were these:

1 - On the Timed settings, both heated and air fluff, the timers would
advanced normally. However, on the Auto-Sense settings (high heat or low)
the timer would advance to about halfway through the range on the dial and
then stop. The dryer would then run continuously with no heat, even for
hours at a time, until we manually shut it off.

2 - Regardless of what setting we would use, we always had to wait at least
15 minutes after the dryer shut off before the burner would come on. If we
tried to start the dryer right after the last load, the drum would spin,
the normal click would be heard after about 15 seconds, but the "whoosh" of
the burner coming on wouldn't be heard. If we let the dryer sit for about
15 minutes, we'd get the 15 seconds of spinning and then "click-whoosh" as
the burner came on.

A little research seemed to point to the gas valve solenoids as a possible
cause. If the gas turned off too soon, the clothes wouldn't dry completely
so the Auto-Sensing mode might not trigger the dial to advance. However, in
Timed mode, the timer would advance normally since that setting doesn't
care if the clothes are dry or not. That makes sense.

A local parts store had the solenoid pair for $30, so I swapped them in and
the dryer worked perfectly after that.

Everything seems to make sense except for the 15 minute wait time between
cycles. What in the gas valve solenoid circuitry, or in a solenoid itself,
would cause the dryer to need 15 minutes of rest before the gas would come
back on? In either mode, Timed or Auto-Sense, the dryer had more than
enough time to cool down since the gas turned off soon after the cycle
started. So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?

The solenoid failed hot and had to cool down before it regained
continuity.


If it failed hot, would it retain the temperature for the entire time the
dryer was running with no heat? When the problem first started we weren't
monitoring the dryer very closely and it would sometimes run for hours.
Early on I put a load in before I went to bed and it was still spinning
when I got up. If nothing else, it kept the clothes from wrinkling. ;-)

Shouldn't the 'noid have cooled off by then or did the power alone keep it
hot?

Safety? If the fire goes out it won't relight until recycled???
Don't know, but it sounds good.


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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 20:56:33 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 21:49:26 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 19:32:08 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

My gas dryer had been acting up recently. The clothes would almost dry, but
with a front load washer they are not all that wet anyway. Still, it didn't
seem like the heat was staying on very long.

The other 2 symptoms were these:

1 - On the Timed settings, both heated and air fluff, the timers would
advanced normally. However, on the Auto-Sense settings (high heat or low)
the timer would advance to about halfway through the range on the dial and
then stop. The dryer would then run continuously with no heat, even for
hours at a time, until we manually shut it off.

2 - Regardless of what setting we would use, we always had to wait at least
15 minutes after the dryer shut off before the burner would come on. If we
tried to start the dryer right after the last load, the drum would spin,
the normal click would be heard after about 15 seconds, but the "whoosh" of
the burner coming on wouldn't be heard. If we let the dryer sit for about
15 minutes, we'd get the 15 seconds of spinning and then "click-whoosh" as
the burner came on.

A little research seemed to point to the gas valve solenoids as a possible
cause. If the gas turned off too soon, the clothes wouldn't dry completely
so the Auto-Sensing mode might not trigger the dial to advance. However, in
Timed mode, the timer would advance normally since that setting doesn't
care if the clothes are dry or not. That makes sense.

A local parts store had the solenoid pair for $30, so I swapped them in and
the dryer worked perfectly after that.

Everything seems to make sense except for the 15 minute wait time between
cycles. What in the gas valve solenoid circuitry, or in a solenoid itself,
would cause the dryer to need 15 minutes of rest before the gas would come
back on? In either mode, Timed or Auto-Sense, the dryer had more than
enough time to cool down since the gas turned off soon after the cycle
started. So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?
The solenoid failed hot and had to cool down before it regained
continuity.


If it failed hot, would it retain the temperature for the entire time the
dryer was running with no heat? When the problem first started we weren't
monitoring the dryer very closely and it would sometimes run for hours.
Early on I put a load in before I went to bed and it was still spinning
when I got up. If nothing else, it kept the clothes from wrinkling. ;-)

Shouldn't the 'noid have cooled off by then or did the power alone keep it
hot?

Safety? If the fire goes out it won't relight until recycled???
Don't know, but it sounds good.


Sounds good to me too. When every feature required a piece of
machinery to implement it, stuff like that was a lot of effort to
include.

But now, assuming this dryer has some ROM with logic, it's no trouble
to include extra logic like this.
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On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 22:06:38 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:


Safety. It wants to make sure that if because of some other failure the
area filled with gas it wouldn't just try to ignite it and blow up your dryer.


Thanks, but I doubt it. Using time as a means to ensure the gas has
dissipated doesn't seem like a very safe method.

Besides that would imply more intelligence than my very basic dryer has.


I think it's as much or more the age of the dryer as how basic it is.
If the high end models have this kind of logic, if it's been developed
and used, they should use it in all their models, even the cheap ones.
For the sake of safety, morality, and avoiding lawsuits.
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 23:50:46 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:



We'll see if you're right but obviously I hope you're wrong.


I think this is a good use of the word "obviously". Even though we
can't read your mind, a normal person would hope the dryer is fixed.

But watch the tv news and a lot of other people who use "obviously".
They use it when things aren't obvious at all. More often these days
than they use it correctly, IMO.
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

my best friend had that problem the solenoids passed a VOM resistance test. my buddy asked a neighbor a sears tech who said change the solenoids, which did fix it.....

my friend still doesnt understand it but is happy his dryer still works
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

Wow I am jealous

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Congrats on the good fix.

I don't know why that is, can't help. But, I'm cheering
for you.

.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

On 9/24/2013 3:32 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My gas dryer had been acting up recently. The clothes would almost dry,
but
with a front load washer they are not all that wet anyway. Still, it
didn't
seem like the heat was staying on very long.

The other 2 symptoms were these:

1 - On the Timed settings, both heated and air fluff, the timers would
advanced normally. However, on the Auto-Sense settings (high heat or
low)
the timer would advance to about halfway through the range on the dial
and
then stop. The dryer would then run continuously with no heat, even for
hours at a time, until we manually shut it off.

2 - Regardless of what setting we would use, we always had to wait at
least
15 minutes after the dryer shut off before the burner would come on. If
we
tried to start the dryer right after the last load, the drum would spin,
the normal click would be heard after about 15 seconds, but the "whoosh"
of
the burner coming on wouldn't be heard. If we let the dryer sit for about
15 minutes, we'd get the 15 seconds of spinning and then "click-whoosh"
as
the burner came on.

A little research seemed to point to the gas valve solenoids as a
possible
cause. If the gas turned off too soon, the clothes wouldn't dry
completely
so the Auto-Sensing mode might not trigger the dial to advance. However,
in
Timed mode, the timer would advance normally since that setting doesn't
care if the clothes are dry or not. That makes sense.

A local parts store had the solenoid pair for $30, so I swapped them in
and
the dryer worked perfectly after that.

Everything seems to make sense except for the 15 minute wait time between
cycles. What in the gas valve solenoid circuitry, or in a solenoid
itself,
would cause the dryer to need 15 minutes of rest before the gas would
come
back on? In either mode, Timed or Auto-Sense, the dryer had more than
enough time to cool down since the gas turned off soon after the cycle
started. So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?





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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

First, please let us know in a week or so, if the
dryer continues to run. I sure hope that was the
needed part. I haven't heard of any self resetting
thermal cut out for clothes dryers.

Second, there need to be a big sign. "Abandon
obviously, ye who enter here".

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/24/2013 10:06 PM, micky wrote:
On Tue, 24 Sep 2013 23:50:46 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:



We'll see if you're right but obviously I hope you're wrong.


I think this is a good use of the word "obviously". Even though we
can't read your mind, a normal person would hope the dryer is fixed.

But watch the tv news and a lot of other people who use "obviously".
They use it when things aren't obvious at all. More often these days
than they use it correctly, IMO.

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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?


Most likely because there was nothing wrong with the solenoid. More likely you
had a problem with the hi temp limit switch. Either the switch was failing, or
there was enough lint in the vent that the burner was causing the switch to
trip. Mucking around with the solenoid either tapped the switch enough that it
started working again, or you cleaned the vent as a part of changing the
solenoid. Either way, you're likely to see the real problem recur.


A half a dozen loads later and she's still running strong.

BTW, since replacing the solenoids, I found this at an appliance repair
site...
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

So why did the dryer have to be completely off for 15 minutes
before the gas would turn back on?


Most likely because there was nothing wrong with the solenoid. More likely you
had a problem with the hi temp limit switch. Either the switch was failing, or
there was enough lint in the vent that the burner was causing the switch to
trip. Mucking around with the solenoid either tapped the switch enough that it
started working again, or you cleaned the vent as a part of changing the
solenoid. Either way, you're likely to see the real problem recur.


A half a dozen loads later and she's still running strong.

BTW, since replacing the solenoids, I found this at an appliance repair
site...


Darn...forgot to include the URL and now I can't find it.

It was from an on-line parts supplier that had comments from users. One guy
posted the same symptoms as me, including the 15 minute wait before the gas
would come on again. He said he tried the hi temp sensor and the thermal
fuse but the problem wasn't fixed until he replaced the solenoids.

I'm going to keep looking for that URL.
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Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

Excellent. I'm pleased to hear of success.
Thanks for writing back.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/28/2013 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

A half a dozen loads later and she's still running strong.

BTW, since replacing the solenoids, I found this at an appliance repair
site...

  #20   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,730
Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

Check your browsing history, on your PC?

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/28/2013 10:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
A half a dozen loads later and she's still running strong.

BTW, since replacing the solenoids, I found this at an appliance repair
site...


Darn...forgot to include the URL and now I can't find it.

It was from an on-line parts supplier that had comments from users. One guy
posted the same symptoms as me, including the 15 minute wait before the gas
would come on again. He said he tried the hi temp sensor and the thermal
fuse but the problem wasn't fixed until he replaced the solenoids.

I'm going to keep looking for that URL.



  #21   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 14,845
Default Took a guess, fixed my dryer for $30 but don't understand why.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Check your browsing history, on your PC?

.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

On 9/28/2013 10:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
A half a dozen loads later and she's still running strong.

BTW, since replacing the solenoids, I found this at an appliance repair
site...


Darn...forgot to include the URL and now I can't find it.

It was from an on-line parts supplier that had comments from users. One guy
posted the same symptoms as me, including the 15 minute wait before the gas
would come on again. He said he tried the hi temp sensor and the thermal
fuse but the problem wasn't fixed until he replaced the solenoids.

I'm going to keep looking for that URL.


I found the site on my work PC, I'm home now.
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