What would happen if I used 5/8€� threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?

I need to replace the wheel on my wheelbarrow. The wheelbarrow is used for
light duty homeowner tasks, like yard work, not for hauling concrete or
bricks.

All of the new wheels have a 5/8€� ID for the bearing, but my original axle
is just over 5/8€� and doesn't fit into the bearing. I can get a 3 foot
piece of 5/8€� solid rod for $8-$9 or I can get a 1" piece of 5/8€� threaded
rod for $1.50. Since both of them need to be cut, that's a wash, so I'm
really just trying to save a few bucks as well as being curious.

Will the threaded rod chew up the bearing casing? The wheel I plan to use
has a built-in grease fitting if that makes any difference.

My other option is to grind down my original axle on my bench grinder. It
won't be as rough as the threaded rod, but it sure won't be as smooth as
new solid rod. As a test, I ground down about a half inch on one end and it
will fit if I keep going. Obviously, that's free, other than my time.

I'm still curious about using the threaded rod though.

On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 18:34:32 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

What would happen if I used 5/8€� threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?

I need to replace the wheel on my wheelbarrow. The wheelbarrow is used for
light duty homeowner tasks, like yard work, not for hauling concrete or
bricks.

All of the new wheels have a 5/8€� ID for the bearing, but my original axle
is just over 5/8€� and doesn't fit into the bearing. I can get a 3 foot
piece of 5/8€� solid rod for $8-$9 or I can get a 1" piece of 5/8€� threaded
rod for $1.50. Since both of them need to be cut, that's a wash, so I'm
really just trying to save a few bucks as well as being curious.

Will the threaded rod chew up the bearing casing? The wheel I plan to use
has a built-in grease fitting if that makes any difference.

My other option is to grind down my original axle on my bench grinder. It
won't be as rough as the threaded rod, but it sure won't be as smooth as
new solid rod. As a test, I ground down about a half inch on one end and it
will fit if I keep going. Obviously, that's free, other than my time.

I'm still curious about using the threaded rod though.

The threaded rod might chew it up a bit over time. More likely the
bearing bushing will chew up the allthread.
You could tape it to slow that down, or epoxy the threads where
they're in the bushing to fill them. The allthread will be weaker
than solid rod. It's made for different stresses, and has a smaller
solid diameter.
For a buck and a half, I'd just try it out. If it gives you any
problem, go buy the solid rod. You might find a free piece of solid
rod in the interim.
..

On 2013-09-18, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What would happen if I used 5/8??? threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?


You might take a look at what's available in a grade 8 partially threaded
bolt.

nb

On 9/18/2013 1:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
What would happen if I used 5/8€� threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?
....
I'm still curious about using the threaded rod though.

It'll likely last _a_long_time_ (tm) at those uses but certainly the
threaded rod will gradually eat up the bearing. Less of an issue if the
bearing has a collar and set screw to lock it; more if it is just a
friction fit to prevent the axle from turning in the bearing because the
threaded rod will likely be small.

How far off is the axle shaft you've got to go? Just a smidge or a full
32-nd or more? If you can chuck it up somehow and use a piece of coarse
emery then polish it a little you can probably get it to be as good as
need be...

Surely there's an ironmonger or salvage yard around that you could bum a
short chunk of rod off of rather than pay the exorbitant prices at the
hardware bins I'd think???

--

notbob wrote:
On 2013-09-18, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What would happen if I used 5/8??? threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?


You might take a look at what's available in a grade 8 partially threaded
bolt.

nb

I'm taking a un-researched, SWAG here...

A 10€œ long 5/8" grade 8 partially threaded bolt is going to cost almost as
much, if not more, than the 5/8" solid rod.

On 9/18/2013 2:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
wrote:
On 2013-09-18, wrote:

What would happen if I used 5/8??? threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?


You might take a look at what's available in a grade 8 partially threaded
bolt.

nb

I'm taking a un-researched, SWAG here...

A 10€œ long 5/8" grade 8 partially threaded bolt is going to cost almost as
much, if not more, than the 5/8" solid rod.

And you don't need Grade 8 anyways, by any stretch...

--

dpb wrote:
On 9/18/2013 1:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
What would happen if I used 5/8€� threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?
...
I'm still curious about using the threaded rod though.

It'll likely last _a_long_time_ (tm) at those uses but certainly the
threaded rod will gradually eat up the bearing. Less of an issue if the
bearing has a collar and set screw to lock it; more if it is just a
friction fit to prevent the axle from turning in the bearing because the
threaded rod will likely be small.

How far off is the axle shaft you've got to go? Just a smidge or a full
32-nd or more? If you can chuck it up somehow and use a piece of coarse
emery then polish it a little you can probably get it to be as good as need be...

Surely there's an ironmonger or salvage yard around that you could bum a
short chunk of rod off of rather than pay the exorbitant prices at the
hardware bins I'd think???

--

I'm going to try and grind my current one down. No cost so it's worth a
try.

Do I want the axle to be tight in the bearing or do I want it to spin? When
I removed the axle from the original wheel it was so rusted in that it
busted the bearing and popped the collar out of the wheel. I had to use an
open end wrench and hammer to slide the collar off of the axle. The axle
was definitely not spinning freely within the bearing.

BTW...The bearings weren't the problem with the old wheel. The rim rusted
out so badly that the tube was beginning to protrude. Eventually it would
have popped. The tire has dry rot also so it's time for a replacement.

dpb wrote:
On 9/18/2013 2:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
wrote:
On 2013-09-18, wrote:

What would happen if I used 5/8??? threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?


You might take a look at what's available in a grade 8 partially threaded
bolt.

nb

I'm taking a un-researched, SWAG here...

A 10€œ long 5/8" grade 8 partially threaded bolt is going to cost almost as
much, if not more, than the 5/8" solid rod.

And you don't need Grade 8 anyways, by any stretch...

--

Yeah, I knew that...wasn't worth mentioning because the price made no sense
since I'm trying to go cheap, not over build the axle.

On 9/18/2013 2:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

I'm going to try and grind my current one down. No cost so it's worth a
try.

Sure, was just trying to give some ideas on how to try to get/keep it
nearly round w/o an actual lathe...

Do I want the axle to be tight in the bearing or do I want it to spin? When
I removed the axle from the original wheel it was so rusted in that it
busted the bearing and popped the collar out of the wheel. I had to use an
open end wrench and hammer to slide the collar off of the axle. The axle
was definitely not spinning freely within the bearing.

You want the axle to be snug-enough in the bearing that it doesn't turn
but causes the bearing to turn instead.

You can grind the shaft down a little extra up to the point at which the
bearing actually runs so it's not a press fit the whole way then work on
the bearing area surface in more detail to try to get a decent fit there.

--

On 09/18/2013 03:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
dpb wrote:
On 9/18/2013 1:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
What would happen if I used 5/8€� threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?
...
I'm still curious about using the threaded rod though.

It'll likely last _a_long_time_ (tm) at those uses but certainly the
threaded rod will gradually eat up the bearing. Less of an issue if the
bearing has a collar and set screw to lock it; more if it is just a
friction fit to prevent the axle from turning in the bearing because the
threaded rod will likely be small.

How far off is the axle shaft you've got to go? Just a smidge or a full
32-nd or more? If you can chuck it up somehow and use a piece of coarse
emery then polish it a little you can probably get it to be as good as need be...

Surely there's an ironmonger or salvage yard around that you could bum a
short chunk of rod off of rather than pay the exorbitant prices at the
hardware bins I'd think???

--

I'm going to try and grind my current one down. No cost so it's worth a
try.

Do I want the axle to be tight in the bearing or do I want it to spin? When
I removed the axle from the original wheel it was so rusted in that it
busted the bearing and popped the collar out of the wheel. I had to use an
open end wrench and hammer to slide the collar off of the axle. The axle
was definitely not spinning freely within the bearing.

BTW...The bearings weren't the problem with the old wheel. The rim rusted
out so badly that the tube was beginning to protrude. Eventually it would
have popped. The tire has dry rot also so it's time for a replacement.


If it were a trailer or a wheel bearing on a car I'd definitely say you
want a tight fit between the axle and the inner race of the bearing.
But is a wheelbarrow actually going to get over 2 MPH?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Depending on the kind of wheel it is, you may be able to replace the bearings in it.

I'd look in your Yellow Pages phone directory under "Wheels" and you should find some places in town that sell small wheels and casters for everything from furniture to trailers. Those places will sell bearings for both solid and pneumatic wheels that just hammer in to each side of the wheel. They should also sell 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 inch round steel stock for use as axles.

I'd just take your axle and wheel down to any of those places and see if they can cut and drill a new axle to fit your new wheel or replace the bearings in your wheel so it fits the old axle.

dpb wrote:
On 9/18/2013 2:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

I'm going to try and grind my current one down. No cost so it's worth a
try.

Sure, was just trying to give some ideas on how to try to get/keep it
nearly round w/o an actual lathe...

Do I want the axle to be tight in the bearing or do I want it to spin? When
I removed the axle from the original wheel it was so rusted in that it
busted the bearing and popped the collar out of the wheel. I had to use an
open end wrench and hammer to slide the collar off of the axle. The axle
was definitely not spinning freely within the bearing.

You want the axle to be snug-enough in the bearing that it doesn't turn
but causes the bearing to turn instead.

You can grind the shaft down a little extra up to the point at which the
bearing actually runs so it's not a press fit the whole way then work on
the bearing area surface in more detail to try to get a decent fit there.

--

I'll let you know how it works out.

Nate Nagel wrote:
On 09/18/2013 03:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

....snip...

Do I want the axle to be tight in the bearing or do I want it to spin?


If it were a trailer or a wheel bearing on a car I'd definitely say you
want a tight fit between the axle and the inner race of the bearing. But
is a wheelbarrow actually going to get over 2 MPH?

nate

Obviously you've never seen me do yard work. ;-)

On 9/18/2013 3:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Nate wrote:
On 09/18/2013 03:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

...snip...

Do I want the axle to be tight in the bearing or do I want it to spin?


If it were a trailer or a wheel bearing on a car I'd definitely say you
want a tight fit between the axle and the inner race of the bearing. But
is a wheelbarrow actually going to get over 2 MPH?

nate

Obviously you've never seen me do yard work. ;-)

Good point; this isn't going to be a real hard one to make work...if get
a little loose in the grinding phase, a dimple or two with a punch and
then drive it into place and you'll be good to go.

It just needs enough friction as said earlier to make it the bearing
that turns instead of the axle in the bearing.

--

nestork wrote:
Depending on the kind of wheel it is, you may be able to replace the
bearings in it.

I'd look in your Yellow Pages phone directory under "Wheels" and you
should find some places in town that sell small wheels and casters for
everything from furniture to trailers. Those places will sell bearings
for both solid and pneumatic wheels that just hammer in to each side of
the wheel. They should also sell 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 inch round steel
stock for use as axles.

I'd just take your axle and wheel down to any of those places and see if
they can cut and drill a new axle to fit your new wheel or replace the
bearings in your wheel so it fits the old axle.


Thanks for the suggestions but remember, this is just a wheelbarrow.

I'm not trying to make this a major project, running all over town trying
to find parts. I can easily solve the whole issue for $9 and have 2 feet of
5/8" solid rod left over. I was really just curious about how threaded rod
would work as a really cheap solution. ($1.50)

As I said earlier, I'll try grinding my original axle down (free!) and see
what happens.

On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 19:24:13 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

notbob wrote:
On 2013-09-18, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What would happen if I used 5/8??? threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?


You might take a look at what's available in a grade 8 partially threaded
bolt.

nb

I'm taking a un-researched, SWAG here...

A 10“ long 5/8" grade 8 partially threaded bolt is going to cost almost as
much, if not more, than the 5/8" solid rod.
But a grade 8 bolt is massive overkill - since a threaded rod is
about a grade 2?

I'd say spin. I've seen wheelbarrow wheels with
zerk fittings. Which made sense, to me.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/18/2013 3:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:


I'm going to try and grind my current one down. No cost so it's worth a
try.

Do I want the axle to be tight in the bearing or do I want it to spin? When
I removed the axle from the original wheel it was so rusted in that it
busted the bearing and popped the collar out of the wheel. I had to use an
open end wrench and hammer to slide the collar off of the axle. The axle
was definitely not spinning freely within the bearing.

BTW...The bearings weren't the problem with the old wheel. The rim rusted
out so badly that the tube was beginning to protrude. Eventually it would
have popped. The tire has dry rot also so it's time for a replacement.

Do I remember a thread about ground hornets
nests?

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/18/2013 4:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If it were a trailer or a wheel bearing on a car I'd definitely say you
want a tight fit between the axle and the inner race of the bearing. But
is a wheelbarrow actually going to get over 2 MPH?

nate

Obviously you've never seen me do yard work. ;-)

DerbyDad03 wrote:
What would happen if I used 5/8" threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?

I need to replace the wheel on my wheelbarrow. The wheelbarrow is
used for light duty homeowner tasks, like yard work, not for hauling
concrete or bricks.

All of the new wheels have a 5/8" ID for the bearing, but my original
axle is just over 5/8" and doesn't fit into the bearing. I can get a
3 foot piece of 5/8" solid rod for $8-$9 or I can get a 1" piece of
5/8" threaded rod for $1.50. Since both of them need to be cut,
that's a wash, so I'm really just trying to save a few bucks as well
as being curious.

Will the threaded rod chew up the bearing casing? The wheel I plan to
use has a built-in grease fitting if that makes any difference.

My other option is to grind down my original axle on my bench
grinder. It won't be as rough as the threaded rod, but it sure won't
be as smooth as new solid rod. As a test, I ground down about a half
inch on one end and it will fit if I keep going. Obviously, that's
free, other than my time.

I'm still curious about using the threaded rod though.

Ball bearings, probably no problem. Sleeve bearings will wear fast.

On 9/18/13 1:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
What would happen if I used 5/8€� threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?

I need to replace the wheel on my wheelbarrow. The wheelbarrow is used for
light duty homeowner tasks, like yard work, not for hauling concrete or
bricks.

All of the new wheels have a 5/8€� ID for the bearing, but my original axle
is just over 5/8€� and doesn't fit into the bearing. I can get a 3 foot
piece of 5/8€� solid rod for $8-$9 or I can get a 1" piece of 5/8€� threaded
rod for $1.50. Since both of them need to be cut, that's a wash, so I'm
really just trying to save a few bucks as well as being curious.

Some cut due to quotation limits. Is there room to put a couple
locknuts against the bearings to make the insides of them turn? I
think some of the old farm equipment made due without any bearings in
the wheels. They used just wooden bushings and lots of grease.
I think even my dad's old tractors moved a bit faster pulling farm
equipment than you pushing a wheelbarrow. It seemed like forever plus a
day elapsed between rounds at times though.

On 09/18/2013 02:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
What would happen if I used 5/8€� threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?

Just give it a shot of WD-40 every 3000 miles.

dpb wrote:
On 9/18/2013 3:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Nate wrote:
On 09/18/2013 03:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

...snip...

Do I want the axle to be tight in the bearing or do I want it to spin?


If it were a trailer or a wheel bearing on a car I'd definitely say you
want a tight fit between the axle and the inner race of the bearing. But
is a wheelbarrow actually going to get over 2 MPH?

nate

Obviously you've never seen me do yard work. ;-)

Good point; this isn't going to be a real hard one to make work...if get
a little loose in the grinding phase, a dimple or two with a punch and
then drive it into place and you'll be good to go.

It just needs enough friction as said earlier to make it the bearing that
turns instead of the axle in the bearing.

--

All set. I ground about 7€� of the 10€� axle down far enough to fit snugly
through the bearings. I left the other 3€� at the original size so that
doesn't slip through the dimpled bracket that holds the axle to the
wheelbarrow frame or slip through the bearing. With the other bracket slid
up close to the bearing, the wheel is centered and can't move side to side.

I grease the axle through the zerk fitting until it oozed out around the
bearings. The bearings spin but the axle is snug.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

On 9/18/2013 1:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
What would happen if I used 5/8€� threaded rod as a wheelbarrow axle?

I need to replace the wheel on my wheelbarrow. The wheelbarrow is used for
light duty homeowner tasks, like yard work, not for hauling concrete or
bricks.

All of the new wheels have a 5/8€� ID for the bearing, but my original axle
is just over 5/8€� and doesn't fit into the bearing. I can get a 3 foot
piece of 5/8€� solid rod for $8-$9 or I can get a 1" piece of 5/8€� threaded
rod for $1.50. Since both of them need to be cut, that's a wash, so I'm
really just trying to save a few bucks as well as being curious.

Will the threaded rod chew up the bearing casing? The wheel I plan to use
has a built-in grease fitting if that makes any difference.

My other option is to grind down my original axle on my bench grinder. It
won't be as rough as the threaded rod, but it sure won't be as smooth as
new solid rod. As a test, I ground down about a half inch on one end and it
will fit if I keep going. Obviously, that's free, other than my time.

I'm still curious about using the threaded rod though.


I've bought cheap screw drivers and breaker bars, cut them to size and
used them for axles. You may find a very inexpensive breaker bar in the
$1.00 tool bin at a lot of retailers and auto parts stores. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html

https://tinyurl.com/brnfakx

https://tinyurl.com/oa59vsd

https://tinyurl.com/o6934ax

Even the cheapest breaker bar is strong enough to be an axle. ^_^

TDD

On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 00:53:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

I've bought cheap screw drivers and breaker bars, cut them to size and
used them for axles. You may find a very inexpensive breaker bar in the
$1.00 tool bin at a lot of retailers and auto parts stores. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html

https://tinyurl.com/brnfakx

https://tinyurl.com/oa59vsd

https://tinyurl.com/o6934ax

Even the cheapest breaker bar is strong enough to be an axle. ^_^

I'd be curious if a piece of rebar would work.

Oren wrote:
On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 00:53:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

I've bought cheap screw drivers and breaker bars, cut them to size and
used them for axles. You may find a very inexpensive breaker bar in the
$1.00 tool bin at a lot of retailers and auto parts stores. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html

https://tinyurl.com/brnfakx

https://tinyurl.com/oa59vsd

https://tinyurl.com/o6934ax

Even the cheapest breaker bar is strong enough to be an axle. ^_^

I'd be curious if a piece of rebar would work.

I don't know the diameter of rebar, but it's a moot point now.

I ground my old axle down to 5/8€� and the wheelbarrow is ready to roll.

On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 17:52:11 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Oren wrote:
On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 00:53:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

I've bought cheap screw drivers and breaker bars, cut them to size and
used them for axles. You may find a very inexpensive breaker bar in the
$1.00 tool bin at a lot of retailers and auto parts stores. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html

https://tinyurl.com/brnfakx

https://tinyurl.com/oa59vsd

https://tinyurl.com/o6934ax

Even the cheapest breaker bar is strong enough to be an axle. ^_^

I'd be curious if a piece of rebar would work.

I don't know the diameter of rebar, but it's a moot point now.


It is moot. I read you final solution.

I ground my old axle down to 5/8” and the wheelbarrow is ready to roll.

....now get to work wink

There are very few men left in the world who can
do such custom "one off" machine jobs. Derby is
to be applauded.

As to the rest of the answers, we can cow...nt
on them being mooooot.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/19/2013 2:23 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 17:52:11 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
Even the cheapest breaker bar is strong enough to be an axle. ^_^

I'd be curious if a piece of rebar would work.

I don't know the diameter of rebar, but it's a moot point now.


It is moot. I read you final solution.

I ground my old axle down to 5/8” and the wheelbarrow is ready to roll.

...now get to work wink

On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 08:24:46 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 00:53:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

I've bought cheap screw drivers and breaker bars, cut them to size and
used them for axles. You may find a very inexpensive breaker bar in the
$1.00 tool bin at a lot of retailers and auto parts stores. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html

https://tinyurl.com/brnfakx

https://tinyurl.com/oa59vsd

https://tinyurl.com/o6934ax

Even the cheapest breaker bar is strong enough to be an axle. ^_^

I'd be curious if a piece of rebar would work.
Would be strong enough, but not anywhere CLOSE to a smooth round.

Just go to your local Yractor Supply (TSC) and buy a bolt the right
size. By the pound fasteners.

On 9/19/2013 10:24 AM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 19 Sep 2013 00:53:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

I've bought cheap screw drivers and breaker bars, cut them to size and
used them for axles. You may find a very inexpensive breaker bar in the
$1.00 tool bin at a lot of retailers and auto parts stores. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html

https://tinyurl.com/brnfakx

https://tinyurl.com/oa59vsd

https://tinyurl.com/o6934ax

Even the cheapest breaker bar is strong enough to be an axle. ^_^

I'd be curious if a piece of rebar would work.


Rebar and all thread rod are designed for tension loads and are not
strong when it comes to side loads. Being bendable makes the stuff very
useful like using it to make hangers and U-bolts on the job. ^_^

TDD