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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

Do you have an idea for a more durable leather work glove
that protects the entire hand and wrist than what I've
come up with over the past year or two?

The best I can find are these three types of gloves:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12811661.jpg

1. For working outside, the best I can find are the TIG
welder's gloves. They protect well, but they don't last
long - so the goal is something more durable that doesn't
cost much more (they're about $18 or so per pair).

2. For most chemical jobs, I use the Costco nitrile gloves
by the boxfull (since they're single-use only).

3. For the easy jobs in between those two, I use the Costco
set of rubberized cloth gloves (but they are also single
use only as they're destroyed within minutes in most cases).

The nitrile and rubber-coated gloves work fine for the easy
jobs - but the tough outside jobs are wearing holes in my
skin because the leather gloves are torn within a few
weekends.

I've learned NOT to buy any glove with a seam across the
palm; nor any with thin leather at any location (and to
get extra thickness of leather in the palms) - but even
then they're worn out too soon.

If you have better ideas for more durable outdoor work
glove that also protects well, that would be very useful
advice indeed!

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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

On 4/29/2013 12:28 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Do you have an idea for a more durable leather work glove
that protects the entire hand and wrist than what I've
come up with over the past year or two?

The best I can find are these three types of gloves:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12811661.jpg

1. For working outside, the best I can find are the TIG
welder's gloves. They protect well, but they don't last
long - so the goal is something more durable that doesn't
cost much more (they're about $18 or so per pair).

2. For most chemical jobs, I use the Costco nitrile gloves
by the boxfull (since they're single-use only).

3. For the easy jobs in between those two, I use the Costco
set of rubberized cloth gloves (but they are also single
use only as they're destroyed within minutes in most cases).

The nitrile and rubber-coated gloves work fine for the easy
jobs - but the tough outside jobs are wearing holes in my
skin because the leather gloves are torn within a few
weekends.

I've learned NOT to buy any glove with a seam across the
palm; nor any with thin leather at any location (and to
get extra thickness of leather in the palms) - but even
then they're worn out too soon.

If you have better ideas for more durable outdoor work
glove that also protects well, that would be very useful
advice indeed!


Basically the type gloves I use. I'd probably have duct tape over the
holes in the leather gloves until the gloves were useless.

Other gloves I like are bicyclists gloves with no fingers and padded
palms when mowing the lawn. Keeps mower vibrations from running up your
arms and feels more comfortable.
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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?



"Danny D." wrote in message ...

Do you have an idea for a more durable leather work glove
that protects the entire hand and wrist than what I've
come up with over the past year or two?

The best I can find are these three types of gloves:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12811661.jpg

1. For working outside, the best I can find are the TIG
welder's gloves. They protect well, but they don't last
long - so the goal is something more durable that doesn't
cost much more (they're about $18 or so per pair).

2. For most chemical jobs, I use the Costco nitrile gloves
by the boxfull (since they're single-use only).

3. For the easy jobs in between those two, I use the Costco
set of rubberized cloth gloves (but they are also single
use only as they're destroyed within minutes in most cases).

The nitrile and rubber-coated gloves work fine for the easy
jobs - but the tough outside jobs are wearing holes in my
skin because the leather gloves are torn within a few
weekends.

I've learned NOT to buy any glove with a seam across the
palm; nor any with thin leather at any location (and to
get extra thickness of leather in the palms) - but even
then they're worn out too soon.

If you have better ideas for more durable outdoor work
glove that also protects well, that would be very useful
advice indeed!

Check and see what the rodeo riders use. They must be durable to withstand
the ropes. WW

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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 16:28:26 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:


If you have better ideas for more durable outdoor work
glove that also protects well, that would be very useful
advice indeed!


Work gloves never last long, except for the heavy suede.
You lose a lot of feel with them
Better to develop some callouses, and wear gloves only for protection
where burning, cutting, cold, chemicals, etc, might damage your skin.
That's been my experience.
If you do like them for common work, just buy some cheap cotton work
gloves that you've found to be comfortable and last some. Then stock
up when you find the cost suitable.
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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

On 4/29/2013 11:28 AM, Danny D. wrote:
....

... but the tough outside jobs are wearing holes in my
skin because the leather gloves are torn within a few
weekends.


What kind of work are you doing that qualifies as the tough jobs?

For general farm work (other than "bob wahr" fences and the like) I just
use single thickness cowhide gloves and wear them until generally there
is very little left--the protection is good enough w/ pretty hardened
hands a few holes don't really bother that much. They're $6-8/pair at
local farm supply.

For fencing and other really hard work generally just use heavier of the
same, often w/ the rough exterior. Again, they're still serviceable
long after a few holes even w/ barbed wire and the like. They're $8-10
a pair.

Never could see point in 2X-3X the asking price--as your post says,
never found any that lasted enough longer to make the cost differential
worthwhile.

The first failure I generally see in the smooth leather is the stitching
along the forefingers...

--


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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:54:36 -0400 Frank wrote:

Other gloves I like are bicyclists gloves with no fingers and padded
palms when mowing the lawn. Keeps mower vibrations from running up your
arms and feels more comfortable.


That's a good idea!

I have a hilly semi-wild lawn that has very tall grasses tucked
away in all the myriad corners and edges which I mow infrequently:

http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12812407.jpg

My palms hurt for days after mowing ... so the padded bike gloves
idea may be a wonderful addition to my work glove drawer.

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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 11:04:10 -0600 WW wrote:

Check and see what the rodeo riders use.


Interesting idea of Bull Rider Gloves, as it looks like they
thought about not having any stitching in the palm (the palm
stitches always come undone after a few hours simply because
the stitches were through so I'm always gluing the palms
back together).

This looks like a nice one, but it's $75 a glove:
http://ranchco.net/servlet/the-5376/...er-Bull/Detail

Here is also a nice one, but it's $50 a glove:
http://rodeohard.com/Tiffany-Bull-Ri...e-_p_1788.html

It gets more reasonable with deer skin gloves at $40 a glove:
http://petestown.com/index.php?main_...332ld871gutj70

This looks as good, but it's still high at $35 a glove:
http://usrodeosupply.com/Gloves/bullriding-gloves

This gets us down a bit lower to $29 a glove:
http://teskeys.com/discipline/bronc-...ng/gloves.html

Googling further, I can find them for $18 a glove:
http://hayneedle.com/product/tough1m...vecowhide.cfm?
source=pla&tid=JTIN1124-2&adtype=pla&kw=&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=JTIN1124-2&gclid=CJX6mpa68LYCFYRfpQodyXQA3A

So now what I need to do, since size and fit are important,
is to find a local resource in San Jose for rodeo or roper gloves.

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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 18:11:55 +0000 Danny D. wrote:

the stitches were through so I'm always gluing the palms
back together).


Ooops. The stitches 'wear' through ...

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On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:30:41 -0500 dpb wrote:

What kind of work are you doing that qualifies as the tough jobs?
The first failure I generally see in the smooth leather is the
stitching along the forefingers...


I just slapped together a collage to show where work gloves fail:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12812829.jpg

These fail in what I would consider normal home maintenance, which
includes felling trees, clearing (very) spiny brush, pulling thorny
weeds, digging & filling holes, cutting & pulling nasty poison oak
infestations, removing Scotch & Spanish broom weed bushes, etc.

Looking to see *where* they fail, it seems, as you noted, the
right index finger stitching often fails, as does the right thumb
stitching. By far, that's the main failure mode of these work gloves.

In some cases, the right index finger and the ring finger wore
through the leather, but most of the damage, as you noted, was
at the seams of the index finger & thumb.

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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 16:28:26 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Do you have an idea for a more durable leather work glove
that protects the entire hand and wrist than what I've
come up with over the past year or two?

The best I can find are these three types of gloves:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12811661.jpg

I buy the cheap kind. When they get dirty, I throw them away. I have
been known to take them off and leave them "who knows where"


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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

On 4/29/2013 1:58 PM, Danny D. wrote:
On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:30:41 -0500 dpb wrote:

What kind of work are you doing that qualifies as the tough jobs?
The first failure I generally see in the smooth leather is the
stitching along the forefingers...


....

These fail in what I would consider normal home maintenance, which
includes felling trees, clearing (very) spiny brush, pulling thorny
weeds, digging& filling holes, cutting& pulling nasty poison oak
infestations, removing Scotch& Spanish broom weed bushes, etc.

....

For that kind of thing I'd just continue as I do--use 'em up and go on.
It doesn't seem to me worth the cost for anything as expensive as
you're buying already and I expect half-the-cost will last nearly as long.

And, even if the finger is split along the seam they've got much useful
life; cosmetics are of little matter.

--
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"Danny D." wrote in message ...

On Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:54:36 -0400 Frank wrote:

Other gloves I like are bicyclists gloves with no fingers and padded
palms when mowing the lawn. Keeps mower vibrations from running up your
arms and feels more comfortable.


That's a good idea!

I have a hilly semi-wild lawn that has very tall grasses tucked
away in all the myriad corners and edges which I mow infrequently:

http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12812407.jpg

My palms hurt for days after mowing ... so the padded bike gloves
idea may be a wonderful addition to my work glove drawer

One more thought. Try a thin coat of "shoe goo" (spelling?) That is tough
stuff. Just coat the hardest wear areas. WW

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Oh... was that you?
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"Metspitzer" wrote in message ...

I buy the cheap kind. When they get dirty, I throw them away. I have
been known to take them off and leave them "who knows where"

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Default Do you have better ideas for outdoor work gloves?

In article ,
Danny D. wrote:
Do you have an idea for a more durable leather work glove
that protects the entire hand and wrist than what I've
come up with over the past year or two?

...snipped...

These may not suit every project you have in mind, but I consider them
a very good value:

http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...rge-93640.html

They are often available with a coupon or on sale for $3 - $4 a pair.


--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
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