I have an ancient (circa 1972) GE/Hotpoint dishwasher that hasn't
been used in some time. Today I decided to give it a test run, and
found that everything appears to work except the water inlet valve.
No water flows.

I've confirmed that the water level switch is working properly, But
when I disconnect the two leads going to the valve, I don't measure
any voltage across them when the valve should be ON. But I don't
know what I'm supposed to get - AC or DC, and what voltage. I
assume it's 110V AC, but don't know for sure.

Of course this is a totally mechanical device which is controlled
by a massive timer/switch box which I assume has internal cams that
cycle things on and off. The valve should be turned on at
least three times during the total cycle, but doesn't turn on at
all.

So, before I try to take the timer apart, I'd like to be sure it
isn't the inlet valve. As a test, can I carefully power up the
valve with 110V AC just to make sure it works? I measure about 600
ohms across the valve coil, so I assume it's good, but need to make
sure.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Dishwasher Model GHDA650B03
Timer Model WD21X5106

Peabody wrote:
I have an ancient (circa 1972) GE/Hotpoint dishwasher that hasn't
been used in some time. Today I decided to give it a test run, and
found that everything appears to work except the water inlet valve.
No water flows.

I've confirmed that the water level switch is working properly, But
when I disconnect the two leads going to the valve, I don't measure
any voltage across them when the valve should be ON. But I don't
know what I'm supposed to get - AC or DC, and what voltage. I
assume it's 110V AC, but don't know for sure.

Of course this is a totally mechanical device which is controlled
by a massive timer/switch box which I assume has internal cams that
cycle things on and off. The valve should be turned on at
least three times during the total cycle, but doesn't turn on at
all.

So, before I try to take the timer apart, I'd like to be sure it
isn't the inlet valve. As a test, can I carefully power up the
valve with 110V AC just to make sure it works? I measure about 600
ohms across the valve coil, so I assume it's good, but need to make
sure.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Dishwasher Model GHDA650B03
Timer Model WD21X5106


Hi,
The door interlock switch is part of the circuit. I am sure diagram is
on the panel of the unit. Inlet valve solenoid is 120V AC driven like
one in the laundry washer. Solenoid makes faint hum when power is
applied. Bad timer used to be rebuilt at the parts store but I don't
know if they still do.

As Tony mentions the door interlock switch is part of the fill valve
power circuit.
You can test whether it's good or bad with an ohm meter.

To verify valve & timer function you could "jump" the interlock switch
and see if you can get the fill valve to work.

You can also test the fill valve with plug cord with spade connectors
on it.
Remove wiring to valve, attach spade connector on cord to valve, plug
cord in... if the valve is ok, water will flow.

Fill valve solenoid is 120 VAC.

cheers
Bob

DD_BobK says...

As Tony mentions the door interlock switch is part of
the fill valve power circuit. You can test whether it's
good or bad with an ohm meter.

To verify valve & timer function you could "jump" the
interlock switch and see if you can get the fill valve
to work.

You can also test the fill valve with plug cord with
spade connectors on it. Remove wiring to valve, attach
spade connector on cord to valve, plug cord in... if the
valve is ok, water will flow.

Fill valve solenoid is 120 VAC.

I've done some further testing. I've confirmed that I do
get 120VAC to the leads powering the valve when the valve is
supposed to be turned on. I didn't get that result before
because I was measuring at the wrong time.

I've also confirmed that there is continuity through the
coil, at 600 ohms.

However, I very carefully applied 120VAC from a power cord
directly to the valve spade leads, as suggested above, but
nothing moves.

So, it appears the coil is ok, but the innards of the valve
are frozen. That's probably because the dishwasher hadn't
been run in quite a while.

In any case, it appears the problem is definitely in the
valve, not the timer. Fortunately, because the valve is
easily replaceable, and the timer isn't.

Onve I have removed the valve, I may try to un-freeze it,
but I suspect in the end it will make more sense to just
replace it.

Thanks for everybody's help.

On Feb 3, 11:31*pm, Peabody wrote:
DD_BobK says...

* As Tony mentions the door interlock switch is part of
* the fill valve power circuit. You can test whether it's
* good or bad with an ohm meter.

* To verify valve & timer function you could "jump" the
* interlock switch and see if you can get the fill valve
* to work.

* You can also test the fill valve with plug cord with
* spade connectors on it. Remove wiring to valve, attach
* spade connector on cord to valve, plug cord in... if the
* valve is ok, water will flow.

* Fill valve solenoid is 120 VAC.

I've done some further testing. *I've confirmed that I do
get 120VAC to the leads powering the valve when the valve is
supposed to be turned on. *I didn't get that result before
because I was measuring at the wrong time.

I've also confirmed that there is continuity through the
coil, at 600 ohms.

However, I very carefully applied 120VAC from a power cord
directly to the valve spade leads, as suggested above, but
nothing moves.

So, it appears the coil is ok, but the innards of the valve
are frozen. *That's probably because the dishwasher hadn't
been run in quite a while.

In any case, it appears the problem is definitely in the
valve, not the timer. *Fortunately, because the valve is
easily replaceable, and the timer isn't.

Onve I have removed the valve, I may try to un-freeze it,
but I suspect in the end it will make more sense to just
replace it.

Thanks for everybody's help.

Fill valves fail often, for dishwashers and ice makers in fridges

"Peabody" wrote in message ...

DD_BobK says...

As Tony mentions the door interlock switch is part of
the fill valve power circuit. You can test whether it's
good or bad with an ohm meter.

To verify valve & timer function you could "jump" the
interlock switch and see if you can get the fill valve
to work.

You can also test the fill valve with plug cord with
spade connectors on it. Remove wiring to valve, attach
spade connector on cord to valve, plug cord in... if the
valve is ok, water will flow.

Fill valve solenoid is 120 VAC.

I've done some further testing. I've confirmed that I do
get 120VAC to the leads powering the valve when the valve is
supposed to be turned on. I didn't get that result before
because I was measuring at the wrong time.

I've also confirmed that there is continuity through the
coil, at 600 ohms.

However, I very carefully applied 120VAC from a power cord
directly to the valve spade leads, as suggested above, but
nothing moves.

So, it appears the coil is ok, but the innards of the valve
are frozen. That's probably because the dishwasher hadn't
been run in quite a while.

In any case, it appears the problem is definitely in the
valve, not the timer. Fortunately, because the valve is
easily replaceable, and the timer isn't.

Onve I have removed the valve, I may try to un-freeze it,
but I suspect in the end it will make more sense to just
replace it.

Thanks for everybody's help.


The valve has a metal plunger that is spring loaded. This plugs the center
hole in the rubber disk. Plunger is most likely stuck with rust or
corrosion. Take valve apart and soak the inter parts with CLR. Also check
the very small hole at the edge of the rubber part as if that is plugged the
water will not shut OFF when the rest is OK. WW

On Feb 3, 8:31*pm, Peabody wrote:
SNIP


In any case, it appears the problem is definitely in the
valve, not the timer. *Fortunately, because the valve is
easily replaceable, and the timer isn't.

Onve I have removed the valve, I may try to un-freeze it,
but I suspect in the end it will make more sense to just
replace it.

Thanks for everybody's help.


I've "fixed" fill valves (temporarily) by tapping (smacking) with
small hammer while activated.
But I figured if they could stick closed, they could stick open as
well.

So even if they worked again, I replaced them.
The cost of "fail open" was too high.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDeta...er=GHDA650B-03

cheers
Bob