"Peabody" wrote in message ...

DD_BobK says...

As Tony mentions the door interlock switch is part of
the fill valve power circuit. You can test whether it's
good or bad with an ohm meter.

To verify valve & timer function you could "jump" the
interlock switch and see if you can get the fill valve
to work.

You can also test the fill valve with plug cord with
spade connectors on it. Remove wiring to valve, attach
spade connector on cord to valve, plug cord in... if the
valve is ok, water will flow.

Fill valve solenoid is 120 VAC.

I've done some further testing. I've confirmed that I do
get 120VAC to the leads powering the valve when the valve is
supposed to be turned on. I didn't get that result before
because I was measuring at the wrong time.

I've also confirmed that there is continuity through the
coil, at 600 ohms.

However, I very carefully applied 120VAC from a power cord
directly to the valve spade leads, as suggested above, but
nothing moves.

So, it appears the coil is ok, but the innards of the valve
are frozen. That's probably because the dishwasher hadn't
been run in quite a while.

In any case, it appears the problem is definitely in the
valve, not the timer. Fortunately, because the valve is
easily replaceable, and the timer isn't.

Onve I have removed the valve, I may try to un-freeze it,
but I suspect in the end it will make more sense to just
replace it.

Thanks for everybody's help.


The valve has a metal plunger that is spring loaded. This plugs the center
hole in the rubber disk. Plunger is most likely stuck with rust or
corrosion. Take valve apart and soak the inter parts with CLR. Also check
the very small hole at the edge of the rubber part as if that is plugged the
water will not shut OFF when the rest is OK. WW