On Feb 3, 11:31*pm, Peabody wrote:
DD_BobK says...

* As Tony mentions the door interlock switch is part of
* the fill valve power circuit. You can test whether it's
* good or bad with an ohm meter.

* To verify valve & timer function you could "jump" the
* interlock switch and see if you can get the fill valve
* to work.

* You can also test the fill valve with plug cord with
* spade connectors on it. Remove wiring to valve, attach
* spade connector on cord to valve, plug cord in... if the
* valve is ok, water will flow.

* Fill valve solenoid is 120 VAC.

I've done some further testing. *I've confirmed that I do
get 120VAC to the leads powering the valve when the valve is
supposed to be turned on. *I didn't get that result before
because I was measuring at the wrong time.

I've also confirmed that there is continuity through the
coil, at 600 ohms.

However, I very carefully applied 120VAC from a power cord
directly to the valve spade leads, as suggested above, but
nothing moves.

So, it appears the coil is ok, but the innards of the valve
are frozen. *That's probably because the dishwasher hadn't
been run in quite a while.

In any case, it appears the problem is definitely in the
valve, not the timer. *Fortunately, because the valve is
easily replaceable, and the timer isn't.

Onve I have removed the valve, I may try to un-freeze it,
but I suspect in the end it will make more sense to just
replace it.

Thanks for everybody's help.

Fill valves fail often, for dishwashers and ice makers in fridges