I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

8", 10", 12"

Does it matter that all the plastic protection plates looked flimsy?
Does it matter to have a water tray attached?

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Sun, 6 Jan 2013 05:52:28 +0000 (UTC), Jackson Jones
wrote:

I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

8", 10", 12"

Does it matter that all the plastic protection plates looked flimsy?
Does it matter to have a water tray attached?


All that stuff matters. What you need depends on what you want to
grind. Are you heavy into metal working? Knife sharpening?
Automotive tinkering? Tool sharpening?

No matter what you buy, get a decent pair of safety glasses or a face
shield to wear when you use it.

On Sun, 6 Jan 2013 05:52:28 +0000 (UTC), Jackson Jones
wrote:

I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

8", 10", 12"

Does it matter that all the plastic protection plates looked flimsy?
Does it matter to have a water tray attached?

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

6" is plenty for typical home use.
You need a face mask for good protection.
Still won't protect you if you let what you're grinding fly.
So the tool rest is what I look at first. Some are really lousy with
wingnuts/connectors that come loose or are hard to adjust.
After that I like a light and water tray.
Any container does for water though, since you usually fetch water
because the tray dried up. A tray attached to the grinder is more
handy.

On Sun, 06 Jan 2013 01:25:26 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 6 Jan 2013 05:52:28 +0000 (UTC), Jackson Jones
wrote:

I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

8", 10", 12"

Does it matter that all the plastic protection plates looked flimsy?
Does it matter to have a water tray attached?


All that stuff matters. What you need depends on what you want to
grind. Are you heavy into metal working? Knife sharpening?
Automotive tinkering? Tool sharpening?

No matter what you buy, get a decent pair of safety glasses or a face
shield to wear when you use it.

Face shield! I'm not saying I never grind with just safety
glasses-- but face sheilds are a much better habit to start right from
the gitgo.

Eyesight is paramount-- but having a 4" long hunk of metal sticking
through your upper lip is no fun at all.- a good grinder will be
able to toss some pretty sizeable crap at your face.

Jim
[the 8"(6?) dual wheel grinder I got at Harbor Freight for about $40
is one of my *few* dissapointments from them- It is powerless- the
stand is nice, though]

On 2013-01-06, Jackson Jones wrote:
I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

Personally, I wouldn't even bother with a bench grinder. A 4" belt
sander is more practical and useful. When I was a machinist, the
grinder gathered cobwebs while our Baldor belt sander was in constant
use. Metal, plastic, wood, tools, drill bits, etc. The only thing
the grinder got used for was grinding special lathe bits. Now, most
ppl don't even know how to grind a lathe bit. A good belt sander like
a Baldor is gonna cost ya', unless you buy used, but it's worth every
penny. It'll see more use than any bench/power tool in your shop.

nb

Jackson Jones wrote:
I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores
today. Which should I get?

8", 10", 12"

What do you want to grind?

Does it matter that all the plastic protection plates looked flimsy?

Not much IMO, YMMV

Does it matter to have a water tray attached?

Can be handy.

More important than any of the above - again, IMO - is the tool rest. Most
all bench grinders come with rests that vary between bad and lousy.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"Jackson Jones" wrote in message
...
I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

8", 10", 12"

Does it matter that all the plastic protection plates looked flimsy?
Does it matter to have a water tray attached?


Please tell us what you are going to use it for. That determines size.

Steve

On 6 Jan 2013 15:02:32 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2013-01-06, Jackson Jones wrote:
I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

Personally, I wouldn't even bother with a bench grinder. A 4" belt
sander is more practical and useful.

I guess that goes back to what Steve asked-- what are you going to use
it for?

If I could only have one-- for my shop- I'd probably go with the belt
sander. [even a portable one]

but there are times when I'm glad I've got [even my underpowered
junker] a bench grinder.

Jim

On Sun, 6 Jan 2013 05:52:28 +0000 (UTC), Jackson Jones
wrote:

I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

8", 10", 12"


My grinder sits in the cabinet shelf. Metal files work for near all
my needs. Like on a mower blade.

I recall some ol' threads here talking about wheel wobble on grinder
wheels. The wheels can break and poke ye eye out.

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
On 6 Jan 2013 15:02:32 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2013-01-06, Jackson Jones wrote:
I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

Personally, I wouldn't even bother with a bench grinder. A 4" belt
sander is more practical and useful.

I guess that goes back to what Steve asked-- what are you going to use
it for?

If I could only have one-- for my shop- I'd probably go with the belt
sander. [even a portable one]

but there are times when I'm glad I've got [even my underpowered
junker] a bench grinder.

Jim

I shall answer with no information.

I have a six inch grinder, with an abrasive wheel on one end, and a wire
wheel on the other. It is a Skil, and I picked it up at a yard sale for
$15. It is the best I have ever owned, in relation to not bogging down, and
low vibration.

A smaller one would be used for fine work, and at times I wish I had a
smaller one. A smaller one would be good also for lapidary, or just small
parts. A green wheel on a small bench grinder is good for sharpening
drills, and a jig can be bought for brand name models. El cheapos also make
jigs, but generally, you get what you pay for. I have a Drill Doctor 750
bit sharpener that is the cats meow for what I do.

A bigger one is good for bigger parts, but it has to have a very powerful
motor, or it can be bogged down, translated early motor failure, and
inconsistent grinding.

I like the one in the middle, because it fits MOST purposes. It is just a
slight pain because it uses a 2" centerhole wire brush, and now I need one,
I'm having trouble finding one. Most others come with 1/2" spindle.

I would suggest a 6", and DON'T buy a HF or el cheapo. Either spend the
money, or find a brand name at the pawn shop or a yard sale, they will be
better for vibration, and for longer life. If you don't use it much, a HF
would survive long enough to do what you want, unless, of course, you buy
it, and find it bogs down badly, and you have to grind and wait and grind
and wait ....... and on and on.

As mentioned, these things can throw metal at the speed of light, generally
making it disappear for a sizeable amount of time, or it will imbed deeply
on whatever or whoever it hits. Wire will stick in your face, or any other
body part it hits. Wear personal protective gear, and a double up of face
shield and safety glasses is a good combo. Glasses are good, but that
leaves the rest of your face hanging out there. Shields are good, but there
is generally a lot of metal slivers going out at all angles, and can easily
bounce around a shield.

I have had the doctor remove metal fragments three times from my corneas,
and all three times, I was wearing glasses, but the work was not on a bench
grinder. Avoid gloves, holding the piece with a visegrip, or some other
clamp. Learn how to use the rest and use it. I am not a fan of a water
tray, just because it is very small, always spills, or is empty when I need
it. You can buy a bread pan at a yard sale for a dime, and it works better
and will quench a bigger piece. Remember that if you do quench, you are
changing metallurgical properties on some things, and it may be a bad thing.
A lot of people quench because it is getting hot. Well, then, use a clamp,
and keep those fingers in good condition and in their present location.

It is a useful tool, and is dangerous. Respect it, because it WILL bite you
if you do something stupid, and most times, the injury will be serious.

Steve

On 2013-01-06, Steve B wrote:

As mentioned, these things can throw metal at the speed of light

They can also throw themselves pretty tragically.

A friend of a friend used the friend of the second part's grinder,
complete with 3/4 metal wheel shields and protective glasses. That
didn't stop the wheel itself from shattering and launching itself into
the friend of the first part's face. End result, first-part-friend
lived, but was no longer first choice on the bar scene.

nb

On 2013-01-06, Oren wrote:

wheels. The wheels can break and poke ye eye out.

Along with the rest of yer face.

nb

[the 8"(6?) dual wheel grinder I got at Harbor Freight for about $40
is one of my *few* dissapointments from them- It is powerless- the
stand is nice, though]


For the record, my personal policy is to never buy anything that 'plugs
in' from one of those ultra discount places, and/or 'dollar' stores.

Should a for real name brand product be found in one, thats another
matter...

Erik

In article ,
notbob wrote:

On 2013-01-06, Steve B wrote:

As mentioned, these things can throw metal at the speed of light

They can also throw themselves pretty tragically.

A friend of a friend used the friend of the second part's grinder,
complete with 3/4 metal wheel shields and protective glasses. That
didn't stop the wheel itself from shattering and launching itself into
the friend of the first part's face. End result, first-part-friend
lived, but was no longer first choice on the bar scene.

nb

Years ago I saw a wheel come apart... luckily no one was hurt or
injured. Scared hell out of me...

It was obvious beyond a shadow of a doubt, that more than lethal kinetic
energy was released... even in the smaller wheel chunks.

To this day I give all grinders a lot of respect, and try to never be in
line with a spinning wheel.

I suggest buying a 'real' grinder and wheels... neither of which will
likely be found in a big box outfit. Also, read, heed, understand and
follow all safety precautions... every time you use it. Also, secure
from from kids, morons and/or anyone else likely to cause an accident.

Just my .02? worth.

Erik

[the 8"(6?) dual wheel grinder I got at Harbor Freight for about $40
is one of my *few* dissapointments from them- It is powerless- the
stand is nice, though]

No one has mentioned this, so I will take a poke.

The stand.

Should you be able, a bench is a very good mount, although it limits
accessibility to the wheels a little. Maybe even make an arm that sticks
out from the bench if you need more accessibility to the wheels. If you
have to make a stand, make it substantial, and anchored to the floor with
red heads or similar. Unless you do very light work that requires only a
slight touch, DO NOT use a tire or similar stand, unless it is a substantial
piece of plate with some weight. Sooner or later, you will find out how
tippy it is. DAMHIKT!

OOPS .......... whoa there..........

Steve

"Erik" wrote in message
...
In article ,
notbob wrote:

On 2013-01-06, Steve B wrote:

As mentioned, these things can throw metal at the speed of light

They can also throw themselves pretty tragically.

A friend of a friend used the friend of the second part's grinder,
complete with 3/4 metal wheel shields and protective glasses. That
didn't stop the wheel itself from shattering and launching itself into
the friend of the first part's face. End result, first-part-friend
lived, but was no longer first choice on the bar scene.

nb

Years ago I saw a wheel come apart... luckily no one was hurt or
injured. Scared hell out of me...

It was obvious beyond a shadow of a doubt, that more than lethal kinetic
energy was released... even in the smaller wheel chunks.

To this day I give all grinders a lot of respect, and try to never be in
line with a spinning wheel.

I suggest buying a 'real' grinder and wheels... neither of which will
likely be found in a big box outfit. Also, read, heed, understand and
follow all safety precautions... every time you use it. Also, secure
from from kids, morons and/or anyone else likely to cause an accident.

Just my .02? worth.

Erik

Few months ago, I used a sanding disc for the first time in years. I got
stupid and stuck it where it shouldn't go, and it kicked. I looked down,
and saw a deep open wound on the back of my hand, tendons and all. I
managed to miss anything important, and nine big stitches was all it took.
It was quite a wake up call, and now I hold the grinder closer to the end,
use the handle when needed, and pay attention to the portion of the wheel
that is in contact with the work, and avoid the part that causes kicks.
Also the way I "stick" it into a corner or irregular part. Pause
................. think ............ visualize .......... do.

Steve

Jackson Jones wrote:
I always wanted a bench grinder so I looked at the big box stores today.
Which should I get?

8", 10", 12"

Does it matter that all the plastic protection plates looked flimsy?
Does it matter to have a water tray attached?

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

I have been using the same manual bench grinder from my dad for 50 years ?
I should get a new wheel. Fairly small, no more than 6 inch.

Greg

On 2013-01-06, Steve B wrote:

that is in contact with the work, and avoid the part that causes kicks.

Even a belt sander will kick the work good enough to draw blood, but a
belt is not likely to take out bones and major organs. The only
advantage I see to a grinder is using a wire wheel, but even then it
spins a wire wheel fast enough to make heavy wire extremely
dangerous. Gimme a brass wire wheel in a 3/8" drill motor. Slower,
but mucho safer.

nb

I agree 100% with what notbob said, which was to buy a stationary belt sander instead of a bench grinder.

The only advantage to a grinder is that you can mount a wire wheel in it for cleaning the rust off steel. But, for the odd time you need to do that, you can buy a hand held angle grinder and mount a wire brush on it. (If you do that, pay careful attention to the speed the angle grinder spins at and the speed rating of the wire wheel. You can get good quality grinding disks and wire wheels at welding supply shops that are rated for the 20-25 thousand rpm that angle grinders run at.

I have a Delta 6" bench grinder similar to this one:



and I also have a Delta 1 inch belt sander exactly like this one:



...and I find that I'm always using the belt sander, but I almost never use the bench grinder. There simply aren't many applications in DIY work where you need a bench grinder, and my belt sander is simply more useful for sharpening tools like paint scraper blades, kitchen knives and such. I often use it for cleaning up the sharpand rough edges after cutting metal with a jig saw, or sharpening a popsicle stick to make a tool that will scrape one soft material off of another soft material (where you can't use a razor blade).

(For example, when I'm using a heat gun to strip paint off of a window sill, I need something to scrape with that won't burn or gouge the wooden sill. So, I grip a single edge razor blade in a pair of needle nose style locking pliers and dull the edge of the razor blade on my belt sander. That way, it's sharp enough to scrape the paint off the wood, but not so sharp as to cut into the wood.)

You'll find that you'll be using your belt sander all the time.

Maybe buy the belt sander first, and then see if you ever find that you actually need a bench grinder.