I inherited this chainsaw, and it looks and works pretty good for its
size. But the chain-oil slowly oozes (leaks) out when the saw just
sits unused on the table. I have disassembled it, and see nothing out
of ordinary. But I know little of how chainsaws really work.
The Sears parts page shows little to help me.

Google searches indicate that this problem is common. Some people say
that when they remove the tank-cap to relieve pressure in the tank,
the leakage stops - and so they do that after using the saw before
storing the saw away. Did not work for me. My tank emptied overnight
with the cap removed.

So I ask - anyone suggest something that I do to stop the leak when
saw sits unused - except emptying the oil tank that is.

Thanks

The Apeman

On Sat, 05 Jan 2013 08:58:57 -0500, Ape wrote:

I inherited this chainsaw, and it looks and works pretty good for its
size. But the chain-oil slowly oozes (leaks) out when the saw just
sits unused on the table. I have disassembled it, and see nothing out
of ordinary. But I know little of how chainsaws really work.
The Sears parts page shows little to help me.

My electrics are Remington and they do the same thing. I hang them
over a bucket. Not worth the effort to figure out where a bit of oil
goes between uses.

Jim

On Jan 5, 8:58*am, Ape wrote:
I inherited this chainsaw, and it looks and works pretty good for its
size. *But the chain-oil slowly oozes (leaks) out when the saw just
sits unused on the table. *I have disassembled it, and see nothing out
of ordinary. * But I know little of how chainsaws really work.
The Sears parts page shows little to help me.

Google searches indicate that this problem is common. *Some people say
that when they remove the tank-cap to relieve pressure in the tank,
the leakage stops - and so they do that after using the saw before
storing the saw away. *Did not work for me. *My tank emptied overnight
with the cap removed.

So I ask - anyone suggest something that I do to stop the leak when
saw sits unused - except emptying the oil tank that is.

Thanks

The Apeman

Have you tried storing it on one side or the other?
Using the correct oil, ie not one that is too thin?

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 06:15:40 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


Have you tried storing it on one side or the other?
Using the correct oil, ie not one that is too thin?


No, and no.

I didn't realize that chain oil viscosity varied.

I'll try both suggestions. Failing that, I'll do what Jim suggested.

Thanks both

The Apeman

On Sat, 05 Jan 2013 09:43:53 -0500, Ape wrote:

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 06:15:40 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


Have you tried storing it on one side or the other?
Using the correct oil, ie not one that is too thin?


No, and no.

I didn't realize that chain oil viscosity varied.

Might want to check what the manufacturer recommends. Remington's
electrics say to use 30 weight engine oil-- *not* chain oil.

I'll try both suggestions. Failing that, I'll do what Jim suggested.

I don't know if you got the same picture I had in my mind when I sent
my post. I hang them *chain down*- so the oil, if it runs out,
lubes the chain on its way to the bucket.

Thanks both


It is refreshing to find an on topic post these days.g

Jim

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
I didn't realize that chain oil viscosity varied.

Might want to check what the manufacturer recommends. Remington's
electrics say to use 30 weight engine oil-- *not* chain oil.


That is interisting. I thought the cain oil should be bio-degradable and
not regular engine oil. Not so much as for the chain, but for the
enviroment.
If the EPA saw that, I bet it would change.

On 1/5/2013 10:55 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
I didn't realize that chain oil viscosity varied.

Might want to check what the manufacturer recommends. Remington's
electrics say to use 30 weight engine oil-- *not* chain oil.


That is interisting. I thought the cain oil should be bio-degradable and
not regular engine oil. Not so much as for the chain, but for the
enviroment.
If the EPA saw that, I bet it would change.



I used a Stihl 039 for many years, cutting about 40-50 bush cords plus
all the limbs.

Biggest mistake I made was using used Engine Oil for the bar oil.

Cost me about $80 to replace the oil pump alone.

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 10:55:00 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
.. .
I didn't realize that chain oil viscosity varied.

Might want to check what the manufacturer recommends. Remington's
electrics say to use 30 weight engine oil-- *not* chain oil.


That is interisting. I thought the cain oil should be bio-degradable and
not regular engine oil. Not so much as for the chain, but for the
enviroment.
If the EPA saw that, I bet it would change.


Don't know- I read it first about 10 years ago-- And they are still
recommending engine oil
http://www.remingtonchainsaw.com/man...107051-01b.pdf
[now they say 30- or 10 when it is cold and 40 when it is hot]

Jim

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 05 Jan 2013 08:58:57 -0500, Ape wrote:

I inherited this chainsaw, and it looks and works pretty good for its
size. But the chain-oil slowly oozes (leaks) out when the saw just
sits unused on the table. I have disassembled it, and see nothing out
of ordinary. But I know little of how chainsaws really work.
The Sears parts page shows little to help me.

My electrics are Remington and they do the same thing. I hang them
over a bucket. Not worth the effort to figure out where a bit of oil
goes between uses.

Jim

Most chain saws ooze chain oil if placed flat on their bottom
Gravity will do that.
For short term, place then on their side bar up
For anything else, just drain the oil and refill before next use.

"Ape" wrote in message
...
I inherited this chainsaw, and it looks and works pretty good for its
size. But the chain-oil slowly oozes (leaks) out when the saw just
sits unused on the table. I have disassembled it, and see nothing out
of ordinary. But I know little of how chainsaws really work.
The Sears parts page shows little to help me.

Google searches indicate that this problem is common. Some people say
that when they remove the tank-cap to relieve pressure in the tank,
the leakage stops - and so they do that after using the saw before
storing the saw away. Did not work for me. My tank emptied overnight
with the cap removed.

So I ask - anyone suggest something that I do to stop the leak when
saw sits unused - except emptying the oil tank that is.

Thanks

The Apeman

You either have a crack somewhere, a warped case, or a break in the
continuity of the case, i.e. in the mated surfaces that should have an O
ring, or just depend on proper forming to mate. As suggested, unless you do
professional carving, and use it a ton, just hang it over a bucket, and look
for a little better one when that one dies.

Electric saws are the cats meow, and pole ones even better.

Steve

On Sat, 05 Jan 2013 08:58:57 -0500, Ape wrote:

I inherited this chainsaw, and it looks and works pretty good for its
size. But the chain-oil slowly oozes (leaks) out when the saw just
sits unused on the table. I have disassembled it, and see nothing out
of ordinary. But I know little of how chainsaws really work.
The Sears parts page shows little to help me.

Google searches indicate that this problem is common. Some people say
that when they remove the tank-cap to relieve pressure in the tank,
the leakage stops - and so they do that after using the saw before
storing the saw away. Did not work for me. My tank emptied overnight
with the cap removed.

So I ask - anyone suggest something that I do to stop the leak when
saw sits unused - except emptying the oil tank that is.

Thanks

The Apeman
remove cap to reduce pressure, then REINSTALL to air-lock the oil -
for oil to get out air MUST be able to get in.

Same here, with my Homelite. I pack a bunch of restaurant paper napkins into
the carry case, under the saw.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Ape" wrote in message
...
I inherited this chainsaw, and it looks and works pretty good for its
size. But the chain-oil slowly oozes (leaks) out when the saw just
sits unused on the table. I have disassembled it, and see nothing out
of ordinary. But I know little of how chainsaws really work.
The Sears parts page shows little to help me.

Google searches indicate that this problem is common. Some people say
that when they remove the tank-cap to relieve pressure in the tank,
the leakage stops - and so they do that after using the saw before
storing the saw away. Did not work for me. My tank emptied overnight
with the cap removed.

So I ask - anyone suggest something that I do to stop the leak when
saw sits unused - except emptying the oil tank that is.

Thanks

The Apeman

Same place as your missing green sock.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...

My electrics are Remington and they do the same thing. I hang them
over a bucket. Not worth the effort to figure out where a bit of oil
goes between uses.

Jim

I've heard that used crankcase oil is far worse
than 10w30 new stuff.

For sure, bar and chain oil made for the purpose.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Hench"
wrote in message ...

I used a Stihl 039 for many years, cutting about 40-50 bush cords plus
all the limbs.

Biggest mistake I made was using used Engine Oil for the bar oil.

Cost me about $80 to replace the oil pump alone.

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 06:15:40 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:



Have you tried storing it on one side or the other?
Using the correct oil, ie not one that is too thin?


Pursuant to your suggestions, I re-filled the tank and then laid the
saw on its side with the chain side up, knowing the up-side then would
be where the tank's intended outlet would be. After some eight hours,
I see no leakage at all. Tank is still full.

I am not surprised though because although I didn't tell you before, I
had earlier dismantled the saw to see how it operates, and to see if
the plastic tank has any leaks in and of itself. It did not. And so,
I knew that today, no oil should come out of the tank with the outlet
pointing upward.

I guess I now need to buy a different oil, or try simply storing the
saw with the chain upward, and with the tank emptied of course.

Thanks

The Apeman

On Sat, 05 Jan 2013 10:21:41 -0500, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

On Sat, 05 Jan 2013 09:43:53 -0500, Ape wrote:

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 06:15:40 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


Have you tried storing it on one side or the other?
Using the correct oil, ie not one that is too thin?


No, and no.

I didn't realize that chain oil viscosity varied.

Might want to check what the manufacturer recommends. Remington's
electrics say to use 30 weight engine oil-- *not* chain oil.

I don't have the manual, but will try google for one. I may even
have the manual for my similar Poulan.


I'll try both suggestions. Failing that, I'll do what Jim suggested.

I don't know if you got the same picture I had in my mind when I sent
my post. I hang them *chain down*- so the oil, if it runs out,
lubes the chain on its way to the bucket.

Now that sounds like a winner.

Thanks both


It is refreshing to find an on topic post these days.g

How about that!

Thanks

The Apeman

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 10:43:15 -0600, " Attila Iskander"
wrote:


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
.. .

My electrics are Remington and they do the same thing. I hang them
over a bucket. Not worth the effort to figure out where a bit of oil
goes between uses.

Jim

Most chain saws ooze chain oil if placed flat on their bottom
Gravity will do that.
For short term, place then on their side bar up
For anything else, just drain the oil and refill before next use.



Yep

The Apeman

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 10:43:24 -0700, "Steve B" wrote:


You either have a crack somewhere, a warped case, or a break in the
continuity of the case, i.e. in the mated surfaces that should have an O
ring, or just depend on proper forming to mate. As suggested, unless you do
professional carving, and use it a ton, just hang it over a bucket, and look
for a little better one when that one dies.

Electric saws are the cats meow, and pole ones even better.

Steve



No crack

I didn't say before, nut my Poulan is a pole saw. Works fine, but I
can't handle the saw's weight at the end of pole when I am six feet in
the air on a ladder!

Thanks

The Apeman

On Sat, 05 Jan 2013 13:32:55 -0500, wrote:


remove cap to reduce pressure, then REINSTALL to air-lock the oil -
for oil to get out air MUST be able to get in.


I will

The Apeman

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 15:34:49 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Same here, with my Homelite. I pack a bunch of restaurant paper napkins into
the carry case, under the saw.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.



(G)

The Apeman

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 15:36:32 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've heard that used crankcase oil is far worse
than 10w30 new stuff.

For sure, bar and chain oil made for the purpose.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Hench"
wrote in message ...

I used a Stihl 039 for many years, cutting about 40-50 bush cords plus
all the limbs.

Biggest mistake I made was using used Engine Oil for the bar oil.

Cost me about $80 to replace the oil pump alone.



Hmmm

I have an old Gas Stihl that never failed, and that I used to down and
cup up many a firewood tree. It sits on a shelf now. Remind me to be
careful choosing its oil. And its gas so I am told. That is, if I
ever use it again. I am a decrepit senior now.

Cya

The Apeman

"Ape" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 06:15:40 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:
Pursuant to your suggestions, I re-filled the tank and then laid the
saw on its side with the chain side up, knowing the up-side then would
be where the tank's intended outlet would be. After some eight hours,
I see no leakage at all. Tank is still full.

I am not surprised though because although I didn't tell you before, I
had earlier dismantled the saw to see how it operates, and to see if
the plastic tank has any leaks in and of itself. It did not. And so,
I knew that today, no oil should come out of the tank with the outlet
pointing upward.

I guess I now need to buy a different oil, or try simply storing the
saw with the chain upward, and with the tank emptied of course.


Every saw could be differant. There was a statement in the Remington saw
under the oil to drain it so it would not leak. Guess that leaking is
normal for that saw. Could be that yours is the same.

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 16:35:59 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


Every saw could be differant. There was a statement in the Remington saw
under the oil to drain it so it would not leak. Guess that leaking is
normal for that saw. Could be that yours is the same.

Ayup. I see nothing missing or defective on the saw.
Thanks

Apeman

"Ape" wrote in message
...
I inherited this chainsaw, and it looks and works pretty good for its
size. But the chain-oil slowly oozes (leaks) out when the saw just
sits unused on the table. I have disassembled it, and see nothing out
of ordinary. But I know little of how chainsaws really work.
The Sears parts page shows little to help me.

Google searches indicate that this problem is common. Some people say
that when they remove the tank-cap to relieve pressure in the tank,
the leakage stops - and so they do that after using the saw before
storing the saw away. Did not work for me. My tank emptied overnight
with the cap removed.

So I ask - anyone suggest something that I do to stop the leak when
saw sits unused - except emptying the oil tank that is.

Thanks

The Apeman

I have an assortment of brands (all middle of the road) in varying sizes (I
can't resist when I see them for $5.00 at the Goodwill). They all leak oil.
I've found that storing them in 5 gallon buckets with the bar pointing to
the sky minimizes the leaking. I hang
the buckets from the rafters in the garage, freeing up space for the rest
of my Goodwill finds.

On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 14:46:28 -0800, "Karla"
wrote:


I have an assortment of brands (all middle of the road) in varying sizes (I
can't resist when I see them for $5.00 at the Goodwill). They all leak oil.
I've found that storing them in 5 gallon buckets with the bar pointing to
the sky minimizes the leaking. I hang
the buckets from the rafters in the garage, freeing up space for the rest
of my Goodwill finds.


I am amazed what this thread has revealed about chainsaws. Chainsaw
buckets hanging from a rafter are my likely choice.

Apeman

"Ape" wrote


I am amazed what this thread has revealed about chainsaws. Chainsaw
buckets hanging from a rafter are my likely choice.

Apeman

That laying on the side thing sounded good. But if you are like me, it is
difficult to find that much clean countertop space. And the hanging from
the rafter space is filling up, too. I'd put it on the floor, but, knowing
me, I'd be the first to find the slick puddle on a cold dark
night................

On 1/5/2013 4:32 PM, Ape wrote:
On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 15:36:32 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've heard that used crankcase oil is far worse
than 10w30 new stuff.

For sure, bar and chain oil made for the purpose.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Hench"
wrote in message ...

I used a Stihl 039 for many years, cutting about 40-50 bush cords plus
all the limbs.

Biggest mistake I made was using used Engine Oil for the bar oil.

Cost me about $80 to replace the oil pump alone.



Hmmm

I have an old Gas Stihl that never failed, and that I used to down and
cup up many a firewood tree. It sits on a shelf now. Remind me to be
careful choosing its oil. And its gas so I am told. That is, if I
ever use it again. I am a decrepit senior now.

Cya

The Apeman



I made a mistake in my post. It was 40-50 bush cords a year, not
overall. Must have used that saw 5 or 6 years.

I was always accurate about the gas mixture. was either 40-1 or 32-1,
can't remember but If i ever adjusted that carb once I have forgotten.
Prolly adjusted the idle all of 5 times.

But really careless about bar oil.

Ape wrote the following on 1/5/2013 7:06 PM (ET):
On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 14:46:28 -0800, "Karla"
wrote:


I have an assortment of brands (all middle of the road) in varying sizes (I
can't resist when I see them for $5.00 at the Goodwill). They all leak oil.
I've found that storing them in 5 gallon buckets with the bar pointing to
the sky minimizes the leaking. I hang
the buckets from the rafters in the garage, freeing up space for the rest
of my Goodwill finds.


I am amazed what this thread has revealed about chainsaws. Chainsaw
buckets hanging from a rafter are my likely choice.

Apeman


If your saw has a hole in the far end of the bar, bang a nail in the
wall and hang the saw on it so the oil stays in the reservoir.

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On 1/5/2013 3:32 PM, Ape wrote:
On Sat, 5 Jan 2013 15:36:32 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've heard that used crankcase oil is far worse
than 10w30 new stuff.

For sure, bar and chain oil made for the purpose.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Hench"
wrote in message ...

I used a Stihl 039 for many years, cutting about 40-50 bush cords plus
all the limbs.

Biggest mistake I made was using used Engine Oil for the bar oil.

Cost me about $80 to replace the oil pump alone.



Hmmm

I have an old Gas Stihl that never failed, and that I used to down and
cup up many a firewood tree. It sits on a shelf now. Remind me to be
careful choosing its oil. And its gas so I am told. That is, if I
ever use it again. I am a decrepit senior now.

Cya

The Apeman


A Silverback, eh? ^_^

TDD

On Sat, 05 Jan 2013 22:08:18 -0500, willshak
wrote:


If your saw has a hole in the far end of the bar, bang a nail in the
wall and hang the saw on it so the oil stays in the reservoir.


If i does, I will do it - shud work

Apeman

On Jan 6, 5:08*am, Ape wrote:
On Sat, 05 Jan 2013 22:08:18 -0500, willshak
wrote:



If your saw has a hole in the far end of the bar, bang a nail in the
wall and hang the saw on it so the oil stays in the reservoir.

If i does, I will do it - shud work

Apeman

I have two chainsaws, a small one for light trimming and a bigger one
for real work. Both drip if I hang them chain down, by the handles.
But both have holes in the far end of the bar, and I just hang them
from the bar with the resevoir end down and everything is fine as long
as the cap on the filler is tight.

On Sun, 6 Jan 2013 09:17:05 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:



I have two chainsaws, a small one for light trimming and a bigger one
for real work. Both drip if I hang them chain down, by the handles.
But both have holes in the far end of the bar, and I just hang them
from the bar with the resevoir end down and everything is fine as long
as the cap on the filler is tight.

My Mcculloch and Poulan are both hanging like that - they both have
hole near the bar end. They have been like that all day now. So far
no oil, and both oil tanks are near full.

I studied the way the Mcculloch tank was designed, and it seems to me
that the oil feed to lubricate the chain is meant to function exactly
like it would if it simply leaked. The only tank outlet is a small
pin hole that lays next to and almost onto the chain bar, and the oil
simply leaks out of there onto the bar. And it would do that as long
as there was any oil in the tank near the hole, whether the chainsaw
was running or not. Cheap way to do it! I wonder if all chainsaws
are lubricated that way. This is all a surprise to me.

Apeman

Thanks for the advise, I'll try 30 weight oil and hang w/ chain down.

Hanging it chain down will cause the oil to leak out, you should hang it chain up.

On Saturday, January 5, 2013 at 11:55:00 PM UTC+8, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
news:1pgge856pecp13pc207c5u4ookbi53onuax4ax.com...
I didn't realize that chain oil viscosity varied.

Might want to check what the manufacturer recommends. Remington's
electrics say to use 30 weight engine oil-- *not* chain oil.


That is interisting. I thought the cain oil should be bio-degradable and
not regular engine oil. Not so much as for the chain, but for the
enviroment.
If the EPA saw that, I bet it would change.

Regular engine oil IS bio-degradable; bacteria that live in the soil just love it.

But many environmentalists don't want people to know that because it would ruin their credibility. Other environmentalists simply don't know about it, or if they've been told, they choose not to believe it.

Do a Google search for "Cold Seeps" to learn more about naturally-occurring bacteria that thrive on crude oil.