A while ago I posted a question as to what type of paint to use to
paint over relatively new, once painted, exterior stucco and then went
on to ask what was going wrong with trying to paint these walls.

The HD Behr's stucco paint was recommended, and HD being convenient
and reasonable quality went for it.

Then, in trying to paint the stucco, I ran into a series of 'patterns'
being left on the walls seemingly caused by painting a section and
moving along the wall with a noticeable overlap - very visible because
of the form of the pattern. HD paint dept had no idea what was
happening. But close examination, pattern looked like a 'thicker',
therefore smoother, area at each painting overlap.

The first patterns I generated were vertical, caused by starting at
the roof and going straight down, move over, repeat. This left a
series of vertical patterns VERY noticeable. Then changed to going
from right to left as fast as possible, with the whole wall done in
three passes, leaving two patterns of horizontal lines, with slightly
noticeable vertical ones, as I moved along each section - these
patterns are the least obtrusive, but still noticeable. This end
result made me Feel like a rank amateur here.

This is a single floor building, I have now used completely three 5
gal tubs and am less than 1/3 done with the house. I estimate
something like 60 to 80 sq ft per gal of coverage.

In an attempt to prevent patterns:

I followed HD's employee suggestion of making certain surfaces were
dry [they were], tried multiple coats to no avail = patterns still
come through, but now more of them.

I added the amount of Floetrol recommended [and then more] to remove
'brush strokes' but that had little effect except to add cost and
'fussing' time. Adding more Floetrol still didn't help.

I tried scrubbing the surface mechanically abrading any potentially
drying 'powder' left from the previous paint [Dunn-Edwards versaflat
base, probably thinned for spray painting beyond belief] that effort
didn't help.

I tried wetting the surface, dampening it before painting. That didn't
help.


So that's the update! Paint doesn't go very far and there are still
patterns being left!

Next, I'm going to try 'wetting' at the overlap with Easy Off Window
Cleaner and see if that helps. If not, simply pre-thinning with the
product. Something HAS to work!

The next battle is interior painting using Dunn-Edwards Versaflat
base, that has been leaving brush strokes like ribbed paint! I need to
paint a wall a day and can't stand the cleanup [or multiple cost] of
using a bunch of rollers either.

My impression is is that the paint just dries too fast, need a way to
slow that down and increase the surface tension so the paint will have
time, and the where-with-all, to flatten.

Any suggestions?

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
This end
result made me Feel like a rank amateur here.


You should feel like an amateur, you took painting adivce from HD!


Any suggestions?

Try a real paint store, where real professionals work. Quit trying to cut
corners with bottom shelf products. Good grief man, get a brain!

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
A while ago I posted a question as to what type of paint to use to
paint over relatively new, once painted, exterior stucco and then went
on to ask what was going wrong with trying to paint these walls.

The HD Behr's stucco paint was recommended, and HD being convenient
and reasonable quality went for it.

Then, in trying to paint the stucco, I ran into a series of 'patterns'
being left on the walls seemingly caused by painting a section and
moving along the wall with a noticeable overlap - very visible because
of the form of the pattern. HD paint dept had no idea what was
happening. But close examination, pattern looked like a 'thicker',
therefore smoother, area at each painting overlap.

The first patterns I generated were vertical, caused by starting at
the roof and going straight down, move over, repeat. This left a
series of vertical patterns VERY noticeable. Then changed to going
from right to left as fast as possible, with the whole wall done in
three passes, leaving two patterns of horizontal lines, with slightly
noticeable vertical ones, as I moved along each section - these
patterns are the least obtrusive, but still noticeable. This end
result made me Feel like a rank amateur here.

This is a single floor building, I have now used completely three 5
gal tubs and am less than 1/3 done with the house. I estimate
something like 60 to 80 sq ft per gal of coverage.

In an attempt to prevent patterns:

I followed HD's employee suggestion of making certain surfaces were
dry [they were], tried multiple coats to no avail = patterns still
come through, but now more of them.

I added the amount of Floetrol recommended [and then more] to remove
'brush strokes' but that had little effect except to add cost and
'fussing' time. Adding more Floetrol still didn't help.

I tried scrubbing the surface mechanically abrading any potentially
drying 'powder' left from the previous paint [Dunn-Edwards versaflat
base, probably thinned for spray painting beyond belief] that effort
didn't help.

I tried wetting the surface, dampening it before painting. That didn't
help.


So that's the update! Paint doesn't go very far and there are still
patterns being left!

Next, I'm going to try 'wetting' at the overlap with Easy Off Window
Cleaner and see if that helps. If not, simply pre-thinning with the
product. Something HAS to work!

The next battle is interior painting using Dunn-Edwards Versaflat
base, that has been leaving brush strokes like ribbed paint! I need to
paint a wall a day and can't stand the cleanup [or multiple cost] of
using a bunch of rollers either.

My impression is is that the paint just dries too fast, need a way to
slow that down and increase the surface tension so the paint will have
time, and the where-with-all, to flatten.

Any suggestions?


See my 12/17 thread on PaintZoom.... you can try this product, or the HF
product.
In my newbie experience, for sumpn like stucco (or T1-11 wood, etc),
spraying will do a MUCH better job, in 1/10th the time, at half the cost.
Likely a MUCH longer lasting finish as well, as each coat is thinner,
deeper-penetrating.
The guys at rec.woodworking are experienced w/ paint spraying (surface
finishing in general), as well.
--
EA

On Dec 18, 11:18*am, Robert Macy wrote:
A while ago I posted a question as to what type of paint to use to
paint over relatively new, once painted, exterior stucco and then went
on to ask what was going wrong with trying to paint these walls.

The HD Behr's stucco paint was recommended, and HD being convenient
and reasonable quality went for it.

Then, in trying to paint the stucco, I ran into a series of 'patterns'
being left on the walls seemingly caused by painting a section and
moving along the wall with a noticeable overlap - very visible because
of the form of the pattern. HD paint dept had no idea what was
happening. But close examination, pattern looked like a 'thicker',
therefore smoother, area at each painting overlap.

The first patterns I generated were vertical, caused by starting at
the roof and going straight down, move over, repeat. This left a
series of vertical patterns VERY noticeable. Then changed to going
from right to left as fast as possible, with the whole wall done in
three passes, leaving two patterns of horizontal lines, with slightly
noticeable vertical ones, as I moved along each section - these
patterns are the least obtrusive, but still noticeable. This end
result made me Feel like a rank amateur here.

This is a single floor building, I have now used completely three 5
gal tubs and am less than 1/3 done with the house. *I estimate
something like 60 to 80 sq ft per gal of coverage.

In an attempt to prevent patterns:

I followed HD's employee suggestion of making certain surfaces were
dry [they were], tried multiple coats to no avail = patterns still
come through, but now more of them.

I added the amount of Floetrol recommended [and then more] to remove
'brush strokes' but that had little effect except to add cost and
'fussing' time. Adding more Floetrol still didn't help.

I tried scrubbing the surface mechanically abrading any potentially
drying 'powder' left from the previous paint [Dunn-Edwards versaflat
base, probably thinned for spray painting beyond belief] that effort
didn't help.

I tried wetting the surface, dampening it before painting. That didn't
help.

So that's the update! Paint doesn't go very far and there are still
patterns being left!

Next, I'm going to try 'wetting' at the overlap with Easy Off Window
Cleaner and see if that helps. *If not, simply pre-thinning with the
product. Something HAS to work!

The next battle is interior painting using Dunn-Edwards Versaflat
base, that has been leaving brush strokes like ribbed paint! I need to
paint a wall a day and can't stand the cleanup [or multiple cost] of
using a bunch of rollers either.

My impression is is that the paint just dries too fast, need a way to
slow that down and increase the surface tension so the paint will have
time, and the where-with-all, to flatten.

Any suggestions?

HOw about some photos, both of a whole wall showing the stripes, and
then a closeup of one of the boundaries?

In article ,
Norminn wrote:

I'm puzzled at your plan to paint one wall per day...most res. rooms are
easy to roll in one day, although trim, prep can take a good deal longer.

I'm pretty sure his exterior stucco is on the outside of the house.

Existential Angst wrote:
"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
A while ago I posted a question as to what type of paint to use to
paint over relatively new, once painted, exterior stucco and then
went on to ask what was going wrong with trying to paint these walls.

The HD Behr's stucco paint was recommended, and HD being convenient
and reasonable quality went for it.

Then, in trying to paint the stucco, I ran into a series of
'patterns' being left on the walls seemingly caused by painting a
section and moving along the wall with a noticeable overlap - very
visible because of the form of the pattern. HD paint dept had no
idea what was happening. But close examination, pattern looked like
a 'thicker', therefore smoother, area at each painting overlap.

The first patterns I generated were vertical, caused by starting at
the roof and going straight down, move over, repeat. This left a
series of vertical patterns VERY noticeable. Then changed to going
from right to left as fast as possible, with the whole wall done in
three passes, leaving two patterns of horizontal lines, with slightly
noticeable vertical ones, as I moved along each section - these
patterns are the least obtrusive, but still noticeable. This end
result made me Feel like a rank amateur here.

This is a single floor building, I have now used completely three 5
gal tubs and am less than 1/3 done with the house. I estimate
something like 60 to 80 sq ft per gal of coverage.

In an attempt to prevent patterns:

I followed HD's employee suggestion of making certain surfaces were
dry [they were], tried multiple coats to no avail = patterns still
come through, but now more of them.

I added the amount of Floetrol recommended [and then more] to remove
'brush strokes' but that had little effect except to add cost and
'fussing' time. Adding more Floetrol still didn't help.

I tried scrubbing the surface mechanically abrading any potentially
drying 'powder' left from the previous paint [Dunn-Edwards versaflat
base, probably thinned for spray painting beyond belief] that effort
didn't help.

I tried wetting the surface, dampening it before painting. That
didn't help.


So that's the update! Paint doesn't go very far and there are still
patterns being left!

Next, I'm going to try 'wetting' at the overlap with Easy Off Window
Cleaner and see if that helps. If not, simply pre-thinning with the
product. Something HAS to work!

The next battle is interior painting using Dunn-Edwards Versaflat
base, that has been leaving brush strokes like ribbed paint! I need
to paint a wall a day and can't stand the cleanup [or multiple cost]
of using a bunch of rollers either.

My impression is is that the paint just dries too fast, need a way to
slow that down and increase the surface tension so the paint will
have time, and the where-with-all, to flatten.

Any suggestions?


See my 12/17 thread on PaintZoom.... you can try this product, or
the HF product.
In my newbie experience, for sumpn like stucco (or T1-11 wood, etc),
spraying will do a MUCH better job, in 1/10th the time, at half the
cost. Likely a MUCH longer lasting finish as well, as each coat is
thinner, deeper-penetrating.

You haven't done a lot of painting, have you

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Dec 19, 4:59*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
...snip...

You haven't done a lot of painting, have you *

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? *Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? *Check it out...http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Again, years ago when young, I used to work for a house painter. He
taught me all kinds of professional 'tricks' of the trade. Like simply
sticking the brush down into the paint for the next day's use without
any need to clean it, or for longer delays, freezing a paint brush
rather than messing about cleaning it. Taught me to paint with a brush
as fast as a brush or spray painter. He could paint a single floor
residence in one day, and the next day put on the second coat. Prep?
Brush painting requires far less prep work than spray painting too. He
painted FAST! Using the techniques he taught me, I can easily do each
of our rough stucco walls in around an hour. approx 10 by 15, or so.

Share with all he Simply, dip brush [twist in your hand as you lift
it out of bucket to prevent paint falling off onto ground] slap onto
the wall in an X motion [that works the paint into the surface from
all directions], then do over and over until a large enough area is
covered, then use straight strokes to smooth the paint and leave
uniform brush strokes. You'd be surprised how fast you can 'throw'
paint on a wall that way, even go faster than rollers. As long as the
paint doesn't dry in any way at the overlaps, when you're done, looks
as smooth and even as a spray, but far easier.with less setup. The
key is that 'dry' at the overlaps. I've had NO problems with oil base,
but these new, improved water base seem to 'set' in 30 seconds! If you
don't like something you see on the wall after five minutes, forget
it. Touching the painted surfaces seems to turn these paints into gum.
I used to use Easy Off Window Cleaner in a yellow spray can, but alas
product was discontinued! You literally could go back and touch up
water base paint, even six hours after application, invisibly. Somehow
that product's contents would 'wet' the surface/paint yet did not hurt
the polymers, or such, so the paint's integrity survived.

I have worked with brushes, rollers, and own an airless sprayer
purchased to paint the outside of later mentioned home. Even finished
80 panes of french doors once using an adjustable air brush - bet many
of you have never tried using an air brush for trim painting, eh?

Years ago, I gained quite a lot of painting [an paint removal]
experience completing the renovation of our 15 room home.

As I said, this 'overlap' pattern has me irritated and a bit stymied.

On Dec 18, 5:08*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
...snip...
HOw about some photos, both of a whole wall showing the stripes, and
then a closeup of one of the boundaries?

Possibly, pictures I have a monstrous 1MB each, but Irfanview can pare
that down to a reasonable 200kB and maintain resolution, but where do
I send it?

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Existential Angst wrote:
"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
A while ago I posted a question as to what type of paint to use to
paint over relatively new, once painted, exterior stucco and then
went on to ask what was going wrong with trying to paint these walls.

The HD Behr's stucco paint was recommended, and HD being convenient
and reasonable quality went for it.

Then, in trying to paint the stucco, I ran into a series of
'patterns' being left on the walls seemingly caused by painting a
section and moving along the wall with a noticeable overlap - very
visible because of the form of the pattern. HD paint dept had no
idea what was happening. But close examination, pattern looked like
a 'thicker', therefore smoother, area at each painting overlap.

The first patterns I generated were vertical, caused by starting at
the roof and going straight down, move over, repeat. This left a
series of vertical patterns VERY noticeable. Then changed to going
from right to left as fast as possible, with the whole wall done in
three passes, leaving two patterns of horizontal lines, with slightly
noticeable vertical ones, as I moved along each section - these
patterns are the least obtrusive, but still noticeable. This end
result made me Feel like a rank amateur here.

This is a single floor building, I have now used completely three 5
gal tubs and am less than 1/3 done with the house. I estimate
something like 60 to 80 sq ft per gal of coverage.

In an attempt to prevent patterns:

I followed HD's employee suggestion of making certain surfaces were
dry [they were], tried multiple coats to no avail = patterns still
come through, but now more of them.

I added the amount of Floetrol recommended [and then more] to remove
'brush strokes' but that had little effect except to add cost and
'fussing' time. Adding more Floetrol still didn't help.

I tried scrubbing the surface mechanically abrading any potentially
drying 'powder' left from the previous paint [Dunn-Edwards versaflat
base, probably thinned for spray painting beyond belief] that effort
didn't help.

I tried wetting the surface, dampening it before painting. That
didn't help.


So that's the update! Paint doesn't go very far and there are still
patterns being left!

Next, I'm going to try 'wetting' at the overlap with Easy Off Window
Cleaner and see if that helps. If not, simply pre-thinning with the
product. Something HAS to work!

The next battle is interior painting using Dunn-Edwards Versaflat
base, that has been leaving brush strokes like ribbed paint! I need
to paint a wall a day and can't stand the cleanup [or multiple cost]
of using a bunch of rollers either.

My impression is is that the paint just dries too fast, need a way to
slow that down and increase the surface tension so the paint will
have time, and the where-with-all, to flatten.

Any suggestions?


See my 12/17 thread on PaintZoom.... you can try this product, or
the HF product.
In my newbie experience, for sumpn like stucco (or T1-11 wood, etc),
spraying will do a MUCH better job, in 1/10th the time, at half the
cost. Likely a MUCH longer lasting finish as well, as each coat is
thinner, deeper-penetrating.

You haven't done a lot of painting, have you

Not that anyone would pay me for... LOL

But I DID roller T1-11 and then spray it, and the difference -- on every
level -- was extraordinary.
Thought stucco might be similar.

Spraying wouldn't work here??
--
EA



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 12/18/2012 10:48 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Norminn wrote:

I'm puzzled at your plan to paint one wall per day...most res. rooms are
easy to roll in one day, although trim, prep can take a good deal longer.

I'm pretty sure his exterior stucco is on the outside of the house.


If you read the entirety of the OP, you will see his issues with
interior painting ;o)

On 12/19/2012 9:22 AM, Robert Macy wrote:
On Dec 18, 5:08 pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
...snip...
HOw about some photos, both of a whole wall showing the stripes, and
then a closeup of one of the boundaries?

Possibly, pictures I have a monstrous 1MB each, but Irfanview can pare
that down to a reasonable 200kB and maintain resolution, but where do
I send it?


Most of the graphic software with cameras has the option to resize images.

Existential Angst wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Existential Angst wrote:

In my newbie experience, for sumpn like stucco (or T1-11 wood, etc),
spraying will do a MUCH better job, in 1/10th the time, at half the
cost. Likely a MUCH longer lasting finish as well, as each coat is
thinner, deeper-penetrating.

You haven't done a lot of painting, have you

Not that anyone would pay me for... LOL

But I DID roller T1-11 and then spray it, and the difference -- on
every level -- was extraordinary.
Thought stucco might be similar.

Spraying wouldn't work here??

Sure it would work but a pro would then roll the sprayed surface. Gotta
remember that stucco is very irregular has three dimensions and flat on
spray won't get the nooks and crannies. That is also true of rolling - but
somewhat less so with a long nap roller - which is one reason one rolls
updown, sideside and cornercorner. The other reason is to spread the
paint evenly.

The other thing is that a thin coat will penetrate no more than a thick
coat.

The sprayer worked well on T1-11 because the recessed areas were shallow
enough for the spray to get into them on one side as you approached with the
spray, the other side when you left. IOW, when your sprayer was, say, 6"
away from a recessed area it was spraying straight ahead but the area being
covered was at an angle to center and that angle was small enough for the
spray to reach into the recess and do its side; ditto when you passed the
recess but then the other side got some spray. That is also true with
stucco but stucco is not only irregular side to side but up and down and
diagonally as well.


dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Robert Macy wrote:
On Dec 18, 5:08 pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
...snip...
HOw about some photos, both of a whole wall showing the stripes, and
then a closeup of one of the boundaries?

Possibly, pictures I have a monstrous 1MB each, but Irfanview can pare
that down to a reasonable 200kB and maintain resolution, but where do
I send it?

You send it to a website - there are many specifically for pictures - then
post a link to it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Existential Angst wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Existential Angst wrote:

In my newbie experience, for sumpn like stucco (or T1-11 wood, etc),
spraying will do a MUCH better job, in 1/10th the time, at half the
cost. Likely a MUCH longer lasting finish as well, as each coat is
thinner, deeper-penetrating.

You haven't done a lot of painting, have you

Not that anyone would pay me for... LOL

But I DID roller T1-11 and then spray it, and the difference -- on
every level -- was extraordinary.
Thought stucco might be similar.

Spraying wouldn't work here??

Sure it would work but a pro would then roll the sprayed surface. Gotta
remember that stucco is very irregular has three dimensions and flat on
spray won't get the nooks and crannies. That is also true of rolling -
but somewhat less so with a long nap roller - which is one reason one
rolls updown, sideside and cornercorner. The other reason is to
spread the paint evenly.

The other thing is that a thin coat will penetrate no more than a thick
coat.

Adhere better, then? At least that's what "they say" about thin coats.
If true, spray painting would be the Adherence Bomb.


The sprayer worked well on T1-11 because the recessed areas were shallow
enough for the spray to get into them on one side as you approached with
the spray, the other side when you left. IOW, when your sprayer was, say,
6" away from a recessed area it was spraying straight ahead but the area
being covered was at an angle to center and that angle was small enough
for the spray to reach into the recess and do its side; ditto when you
passed the recess but then the other side got some spray. That is also
true with stucco but stucco is not only irregular side to side but up and
down and diagonally as well.

Hmmm..... sounds sorta counter-intuitive to me, but ahm no 'spert.
Seems to me enough angles with the spray gun would solve that, but I have no
experience.
I'll keep this in mind, if the opportunity arises to try this.

Could it be that blow-back (or overspray) would actually be an aid, to
stucco painting with a sprayer?
--
EA




dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Robert Macy:

Obviously you're having far too much problem with the paint you're using.

I think you should contact Behr and talk to one of their tech support people. I looked it up for you, and here are the phone numbers:

Technical Assistance
Mon. - Fri., 5:00 am to 8:00 pm PST
Sat. - Sun., 6:00 am to 5:00 pm PST
1-800-854-0133 ext. 2

Technical Assistance-Canada
Mon. - Fri., 7:00 am to 4:30 pm MST
Sat., 9:00 am to 1:00 pm MST
1-800-661-1591

Normally, most companies will have sales representatives in each area of the country who can answer customer's questions, but I don't know that Behr does. If they do, maybe you can get Behr to send their local sales rep down to your house so you can show him what you're doing and how you're doing it.

Behr wouldn't be able to give that stuff away if everyone's experience with it was similar to yours.

You also might want to talk to some professional painters and see if any of them have ever used the stuff you're using, and what their experience with it was. I'm thinking if a painting contractor was having such a rough time with this stuff, he'd be sure to remember the stuff so as to avoid using it in future.

Existential Angst wrote:

Could it be that blow-back (or overspray) would actually be an aid, to
stucco painting with a sprayer?

I kinda doubt it.

When I built my house I painted the interior with an airless sprayer. When
doing the closets, most all the blow back was onto me. It felt like I was
in a snow storm. I was snow blind. Fortunately, latex paint comes off
easily in a shower

I still wonder how a paint that is so easily removed from me can stick well
to a wall. It does, though.

BTW, spraying doesn't necessarily result in a thin coat.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"Norminn" wrote in message
m...
On 12/18/2012 10:48 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Norminn wrote:

I'm puzzled at your plan to paint one wall per day...most res. rooms are
easy to roll in one day, although trim, prep can take a good deal
longer.

I'm pretty sure his exterior stucco is on the outside of the house.


If you read the entirety of the OP, you will see his issues with interior
painting ;o)


If you read the entirety of ****tyTwo's posts, you'll see he has issues in
general.

Hey ****ty, howzat geothermal installation in yer mom's house goin?? You
recouped everything in 3-5 years?? lol
--
EA

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Existential Angst wrote:

Could it be that blow-back (or overspray) would actually be an aid, to
stucco painting with a sprayer?

I kinda doubt it.

When I built my house I painted the interior with an airless sprayer.
When doing the closets, most all the blow back was onto me. It felt like
I was in a snow storm. I was snow blind. Fortunately, latex paint comes
off easily in a shower

That's why I'm looking forward to trying the HF hvlp setup.
On my current sprayer set up (reg. compressor air) I'm going to experiment
with thinning the paint, so I can use the lowest air pressure poss, see how
that affects blowback. I already thin the paint for spraying, will just do
it moreso, see what happens.

For typical spraying, I find I"m able to cut the paint by about 25%.
Someone told me that some people do that even with brush/roller painting.


I still wonder how a paint that is so easily removed from me can stick
well to a wall. It does, though.

BTW, spraying doesn't necessarily result in a thin coat.

True, but if set right, it will deliver a nice uniform thin coat, which when
done twice, would seem to give better (more uniform) results. You can do
the same thing with spraying as with rollers, ito viertical/horizontal
motions, for coverage.
Also, it seems that the thin coats dry really quick, so you can sometimes
start the second coat right after (or soon after) finishing the first
coat -- if the piece is large enough.
--
EA


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net