I don't know what you call this part but our closet as two accordion style
doors that meet in the middle. One of the doors was getting stuck. I removed
it and found that the part shown in the picture below is some kind of guide
with a spring that is supposed to ride in the track above it. It is stuck
and won't move freely up and down. I tried spraying it WD-40 but that didn't
help. Is this part replaceable and if so, what is it called and how do you
remove the old one?

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixite...-door-part.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 14:16:46 -0800, "David Farber"
wrote:

I don't know what you call this part but our closet as two accordion style
doors that meet in the middle. One of the doors was getting stuck. I removed
it and found that the part shown in the picture below is some kind of guide
with a spring that is supposed to ride in the track above it. It is stuck
and won't move freely up and down. I tried spraying it WD-40 but that didn't
help. Is this part replaceable and if so, what is it called and how do you
remove the old one?

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixite...-door-part.jpg

Thanks for your reply.

A pivot pin. It should come out by lifting with a screwdriver under
it or a set of pliers.

Look he

http://www.doorandwindowparts.com/closet-doors-bifolding-c-430_16.html

On Dec 12, 3:16*pm, "David Farber" wrote:
I don't know what you call this part but our closet as two accordion style
doors that meet in the middle. One of the doors was getting stuck. I removed
it and found that the part shown in the picture below is some kind of guide
with a spring that is supposed to ride in the track above it. It is stuck
and won't move freely up and down. I tried spraying it WD-40 but that didn't
help. Is this part replaceable and if so, what is it called and how do you
remove the old one?

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixite...-door-part.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

David,
On bi-folding doors, there are two pieces at the top of the door. The
one in the pic is the pivot. Usually the post goes into a metal
bracket inside the track. The pivot is usally glued into the top of
the door. You might be able to remove it with a pair of pliers. All
of the hardware for bi-folding doors are usually replaceable. Just
check your local hardware store and tell them you're looking for bi-
folding door parts.

Robin

If I’m looking at what I think I’m looking at then that part is not supposed to move freely up and down but is supposed to move up and down when you turn a nut that is probably under that plastic ring which probably doesn’t belong there.

On 12/12/2012 4:32 PM, rlz wrote:
On Dec 12, 3:16 pm, "David Farber" wrote:
I don't know what you call this part but our closet as two accordion style
doors that meet in the middle. One of the doors was getting stuck. I removed
it and found that the part shown in the picture below is some kind of guide
with a spring that is supposed to ride in the track above it. It is stuck
and won't move freely up and down. I tried spraying it WD-40 but that didn't
help. Is this part replaceable and if so, what is it called and how do you
remove the old one?

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixite...-door-part.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

David,
On bi-folding doors, there are two pieces at the top of the door. The
one in the pic is the pivot. Usually the post goes into a metal
bracket inside the track. The pivot is usally glued into the top of
the door. You might be able to remove it with a pair of pliers. All
of the hardware for bi-folding doors are usually replaceable. Just
check your local hardware store and tell them you're looking for bi-
folding door parts.

Robin


The OP stated accordion style doors thus I think that he means those
vinyl type door that actually move together and apart like an accordion
and NOT bi-fold wood doors.....just a guess.

Don

On Dec 12, 4:16*pm, "David Farber" wrote:
I don't know what you call this part but our closet as two accordion style
doors that meet in the middle. One of the doors was getting stuck. I removed
it and found that the part shown in the picture below is some kind of guide
with a spring that is supposed to ride in the track above it. It is stuck
and won't move freely up and down. I tried spraying it WD-40 but that didn't
help. Is this part replaceable and if so, what is it called and how do you
remove the old one?

http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixite...-door-part.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

Try twisting it slowly while there is some WD-40 to lube the pin. I
thinkt normally rides in the track above, where the wheel rides.

IGot2P wrote:
On 12/12/2012 4:32 PM, rlz wrote:
On Dec 12, 3:16 pm, "David Farber" wrote:
I don't know what you call this part but our closet as two
accordion style doors that meet in the middle. One of the doors was
getting stuck. I removed it and found that the part shown in the
picture below is some kind of guide with a spring that is supposed
to ride in the track above it. It is stuck and won't move freely up
and down. I tried spraying it WD-40 but that didn't help. Is this
part replaceable and if so, what is it called and how do you remove
the old one?
http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixite...-door-part.jpg

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

David,
On bi-folding doors, there are two pieces at the top of the door. The
one in the pic is the pivot. Usually the post goes into a metal
bracket inside the track. The pivot is usally glued into the top of
the door. You might be able to remove it with a pair of pliers. All
of the hardware for bi-folding doors are usually replaceable. Just
check your local hardware store and tell them you're looking for bi-
folding door parts.

Robin


The OP stated accordion style doors thus I think that he means those
vinyl type door that actually move together and apart like an
accordion and NOT bi-fold wood doors.....just a guess.

Don

The doors are wooden. Each side has two doors hinged together. Accordion
style probably wasn't the best description to use.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

wrote:
If I’m looking at what I think I’m looking at then that part is not
supposed to move freely up and down but is supposed to move up and
down when you turn a nut that is probably under that plastic ring
which probably doesn’t belong there.

The reason I know it's supposed to move up and down is because the pin on
the other, functional set of doors does move freely up and down. There's a
spring inside to push it up with some moderate force.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

What you have in the picture is a bottom pivot that goes on the bottom; the top pivot is spring loaded and move up and down the bottom pivot is controlled by a nut. Someone may have placed a bottom pivot on the top. Remove it and place it on the bottom. It should come out when you pull on it; you may need to pry it out with a screwdriver.

On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 15:16:14 -0800, "David Farber"
wrote:

The reason I know it's supposed to move up and down is because the pin on
the other, functional set of doors does move freely up and down. There's a
spring inside to push it up with some moderate force.

The spring allows you to compress the pivot pin when you install the
door and seat it in the bracket / track. The roller is likely the same
method.

wrote:
What you have in the picture is a bottom pivot that goes on the
bottom; the top pivot is spring loaded and move up and down the
bottom pivot is controlled by a nut. Someone may have placed a bottom
pivot on the top. Remove it and place it on the bottom. It should
come out when you pull on it; you may need to pry it out with a
screwdriver.

This pivot is spring loaded. It's just stuck. I was able to remove the metal
pin but I can't get the plastic part out. It's stuck in there.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

David,

That's the top pivot pin. It is spring mounted. The pin, spring and
plastic collar are all one unit. It should be a press fit. Grab the plastic
collar with pliers, pull and twist. It should come right out. It can be
replaced at any hardware store.
It does not ride in the track. It sits in a pivot hole near the end of
the track.

Dave M.

wrote:
If I’m looking at what I think I’m looking at then that part is not
supposed to move freely up and down but is supposed to move up and
down when you turn a nut that is probably under that plastic ring
which probably doesn’t belong there.

That is true for the bottom pivot but not the top. The top pin is spring
loaded and does indeed move up & down freely. The plastic ring *does*
belong there because it is the top of the casing for the pin.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

wrote:
What you have in the picture is a bottom pivot that goes on the
bottom; the top pivot is spring loaded and move up and down the
bottom pivot is controlled by a nut. Someone may have placed a bottom
pivot on the top. Remove it and place it on the bottom. It should
come out when you pull on it; you may need to pry it out with a
screwdriver.

You can tell you are looking at the top of the door - not bottom - because
you can see the traveler on the other door half.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

David Farber wrote:
wrote:
What you have in the picture is a bottom pivot that goes on the
bottom; the top pivot is spring loaded and move up and down the
bottom pivot is controlled by a nut. Someone may have placed a bottom
pivot on the top. Remove it and place it on the bottom. It should
come out when you pull on it; you may need to pry it out with a
screwdriver.

This pivot is spring loaded. It's just stuck. I was able to remove
the metal pin but I can't get the plastic part out. It's stuck in
there.

If worse goes to worst you can drill it out. Before doing so, pick up your
new pivot and socket at any hardware place so you'll know what size hole
you'll need for the new pin and socket. Not likely you'll be able to
purchase just the one, they are usually bagged into a hardware set, not
expensive.

You should be able to get the old one out, though. They are just a nylon
piece pushed into a hole in the wood. Tried prying under the cap with a
screwdriver? Is the cap big enough to get a purchase with vice grips? Try
sticking needle nose pliers into the hole, opening them and turning.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Thu, 13 Dec 2012 08:56:17 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

David Farber wrote:
wrote:
What you have in the picture is a bottom pivot that goes on the
bottom; the top pivot is spring loaded and move up and down the
bottom pivot is controlled by a nut. Someone may have placed a bottom
pivot on the top. Remove it and place it on the bottom. It should
come out when you pull on it; you may need to pry it out with a
screwdriver.

This pivot is spring loaded. It's just stuck. I was able to remove
the metal pin but I can't get the plastic part out. It's stuck in
there.

If worse goes to worst you can drill it out. Before doing so, pick up your
new pivot and socket at any hardware place so you'll know what size hole
you'll need for the new pin and socket. Not likely you'll be able to
purchase just the one, they are usually bagged into a hardware set, not
expensive.

You should be able to get the old one out, though. They are just a nylon
piece pushed into a hole in the wood. Tried prying under the cap with a
screwdriver? Is the cap big enough to get a purchase with vice grips? Try
sticking needle nose pliers into the hole, opening them and turning.

The whole git-up, might just need a new spring. Nothing in the photo
looked damage. The link I posted showed pivots and springs a various
types (3 pages).

wrote:
If I’m looking at what I think I’m looking at then that part is not
supposed to move freely up and down but is supposed to move up and
down when you turn a nut that is probably under that plastic ring
which probably doesn’t belong there.

The part you're thinking of goes on the BOTTOM of the door.

David Farber wrote:
wrote:
What you have in the picture is a bottom pivot that goes on the
bottom; the top pivot is spring loaded and move up and down the
bottom pivot is controlled by a nut. Someone may have placed a bottom
pivot on the top. Remove it and place it on the bottom. It should
come out when you pull on it; you may need to pry it out with a
screwdriver.

This pivot is spring loaded. It's just stuck. I was able to remove
the metal pin but I can't get the plastic part out. It's stuck in
there.
Thanks for your reply.

The whole thing should be removable from the wooden part of the door.
Usually, you pry it out with a screwdriver. Now by "whole thing" I mean the
pin that is stuck and the bushing into which is is supposed to move up and
down. The pin is NOT supposed to come out of the bushing section.

Once the part is removed, you may be able to free the pin. My first choice
would be to slather it with Liquid Wrench or (better) PB Blaster available
at the auto parts store.

If one of these penetrating oils won't loosen the pin, that the part to the
Big Box or hardware store and say "Gimme one like this."

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
David Farber wrote:
wrote:
What you have in the picture is a bottom pivot that goes on the
bottom; the top pivot is spring loaded and move up and down the
bottom pivot is controlled by a nut. Someone may have placed a bottom
pivot on the top. Remove it and place it on the bottom. It should
come out when you pull on it; you may need to pry it out with a
screwdriver.

This pivot is spring loaded. It's just stuck. I was able to remove
the metal pin but I can't get the plastic part out. It's stuck in
there.

If worse goes to worst you can drill it out. Before doing so, pick up
your new pivot and socket at any hardware place so you'll know what size
hole you'll need for the new pin and socket. Not likely you'll be able to
purchase just the one, they are usually bagged into a hardware set, not
expensive.

You should be able to get the old one out, though. They are just a nylon
piece pushed into a hole in the wood. Tried prying under the cap with a
screwdriver? Is the cap big enough to get a purchase with vice grips?
Try sticking needle nose pliers into the hole, opening them and turning.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net


I bought a new one. I could not find an exact replacement. The pivot pin
itself was the same size but the part that anchors into the door was much
bigger so I drilled out the old one and hammered in the new one. The problem
now is that the top of the door is rubbing the top of the frame as it starts
to close which is why I removed the whole thing to begin with. If I move the
sliding link part a little toward the middle where the pivot pin is
inserted, then it doesn't rub. However, this makes the doors extend too far
to the center and then they hit the doors on the opposite side before they
are fully closed. I think somehow the frame has either swelled or something
is not square any more. Also, the bottom pin is adjustable but it's screwed
in as far as possible to give the maximum amount of clearance at the top.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

David Farber wrote:

I bought a new one. I could not find an exact replacement. The pivot
pin itself was the same size but the part that anchors into the door
was much bigger so I drilled out the old one and hammered in the new
one. The problem now is that the top of the door is rubbing the top
of the frame as it starts to close which is why I removed the whole
thing to begin with. If I move the sliding link part a little toward
the middle where the pivot pin is inserted, then it doesn't rub.
However, this makes the doors extend too far to the center and then
they hit the doors on the opposite side before they are fully closed.
I think somehow the frame has either swelled or something is not
square any more. Also, the bottom pin is adjustable but it's screwed
in as far as possible to give the maximum amount of clearance at the
top.

The top pivot pin fits in a hole in a (usually) nylon slug within the track.
That slug (fixture) is moveable; it will be held in place by a small bolt or
bolts either at the edges of the fixture or in the central area. Loosen the
slug and slide it as needed to square up the door.

NOTE: it can take some fiddling because you need to be able to close the
door, move it and the slug, then open the door again so that you can tighten
the slug. The hard part is not moving the slug again when opening the door.
The trick is to loosen the slug just enough so that you need a fair amount
of force to move the door and it when adjusting.

In your particular case, try moving the *bottom* pin. The bracket it fits
in isn't infinitely adjustable like the top one but has some way of
adjusting the pivot position; usually, a serrated slot. Moving the bottom
pin closer to the wall will drop the outside corner of the top. If moving
the bottom pivot drops the top too much and it touches the other door,
adjust the top pivot again. As I said, it takes some fiddling.

It may be that the *OTHER* door needs to be adjusted. Your goal is to get
each door top parallel to the track and an even reveal in the center where
they met when closed. When that is done, the reveal between the doors and
the walls at the pivot end may be skewed, can't help it, the walls aren't
plumb and/or the track isn't level.

Adjust the evenness of the door tops by turning the bottom pivot up or down
as needed. Ideally, raise them to just below the track edge so that they
can't jump the track. The door bottoms may wind up at slightly different
heights, can't help it, the track and/or floor are not level.

Worst case, remove the doors and trim as needed. If the doors once fit the
space, that should not be needed.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

dadiOH wrote:
David Farber wrote:

I bought a new one. I could not find an exact replacement. The pivot
pin itself was the same size but the part that anchors into the door
was much bigger so I drilled out the old one and hammered in the new
one. The problem now is that the top of the door is rubbing the top
of the frame as it starts to close which is why I removed the whole
thing to begin with. If I move the sliding link part a little toward
the middle where the pivot pin is inserted, then it doesn't rub.
However, this makes the doors extend too far to the center and then
they hit the doors on the opposite side before they are fully closed.
I think somehow the frame has either swelled or something is not
square any more. Also, the bottom pin is adjustable but it's screwed
in as far as possible to give the maximum amount of clearance at the
top.

The top pivot pin fits in a hole in a (usually) nylon slug within the
track. That slug (fixture) is moveable; it will be held in place by a
small bolt or bolts either at the edges of the fixture or in the
central area. Loosen the slug and slide it as needed to square up
the door.
NOTE: it can take some fiddling because you need to be able to close
the door, move it and the slug, then open the door again so that you
can tighten the slug. The hard part is not moving the slug again
when opening the door. The trick is to loosen the slug just enough so
that you need a fair amount of force to move the door and it when
adjusting.
In your particular case, try moving the *bottom* pin. The bracket it
fits in isn't infinitely adjustable like the top one but has some way
of adjusting the pivot position; usually, a serrated slot. Moving
the bottom pin closer to the wall will drop the outside corner of the
top. If moving the bottom pivot drops the top too much and it
touches the other door, adjust the top pivot again. As I said, it
takes some fiddling.
It may be that the *OTHER* door needs to be adjusted. Your goal is
to get each door top parallel to the track and an even reveal in the
center where they met when closed. When that is done, the reveal
between the doors and the walls at the pivot end may be skewed, can't
help it, the walls aren't plumb and/or the track isn't level.

Adjust the evenness of the door tops by turning the bottom pivot up
or down as needed. Ideally, raise them to just below the track edge
so that they can't jump the track. The door bottoms may wind up at
slightly different heights, can't help it, the track and/or floor are
not level.
Worst case, remove the doors and trim as needed. If the doors once
fit the space, that should not be needed.

Yesterday, after hours of shifting, adjusting, and pushing, I realized that
the bottom pin is exactly as you described. I kept thinking that the bottom
pin fit into the hole in the bottom plate. It soon became apparent (if you
call a few hours "soon") that this was a dead end. That's when I
repositioned the bottom pin into one of the serrated slots. Next, the
problem was that I could not just put the top pin into its respective hole
and slide the doors into the track. Even pushing the pin all the way down
didn't give it enough clearance. So I had to tilt the doors to the side
while pushing on the pin and then slowly line everything up. It took a few
tries to find the correct positioning of the bottom pin and if I ever have
to do this again, I will pay attention to where the bottom pin lives before
I remove the doors!

Thanks for everyone's help with this.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

On Fri, 14 Dec 2012 10:47:54 -0800, "David Farber"
wrote:

Yesterday, after hours of shifting, adjusting, and pushing, I realized that
the bottom pin is exactly as you described. I kept thinking that the bottom
pin fit into the hole in the bottom plate. It soon became apparent (if you
call a few hours "soon") that this was a dead end. That's when I
repositioned the bottom pin into one of the serrated slots. Next, the
problem was that I could not just put the top pin into its respective hole
and slide the doors into the track. Even pushing the pin all the way down
didn't give it enough clearance. So I had to tilt the doors to the side
while pushing on the pin and then slowly line everything up. It took a few
tries to find the correct positioning of the bottom pin and if I ever have
to do this again, I will pay attention to where the bottom pin lives before
I remove the doors!

Thanks for everyone's help with this.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA


And that is the rest of the news. You have to tinker with bi-fold
doors, adjustments and the devil in the details.

The way to install.