dadiOH wrote:
David Farber wrote:

I bought a new one. I could not find an exact replacement. The pivot
pin itself was the same size but the part that anchors into the door
was much bigger so I drilled out the old one and hammered in the new
one. The problem now is that the top of the door is rubbing the top
of the frame as it starts to close which is why I removed the whole
thing to begin with. If I move the sliding link part a little toward
the middle where the pivot pin is inserted, then it doesn't rub.
However, this makes the doors extend too far to the center and then
they hit the doors on the opposite side before they are fully closed.
I think somehow the frame has either swelled or something is not
square any more. Also, the bottom pin is adjustable but it's screwed
in as far as possible to give the maximum amount of clearance at the
top.

The top pivot pin fits in a hole in a (usually) nylon slug within the
track. That slug (fixture) is moveable; it will be held in place by a
small bolt or bolts either at the edges of the fixture or in the
central area. Loosen the slug and slide it as needed to square up
the door.
NOTE: it can take some fiddling because you need to be able to close
the door, move it and the slug, then open the door again so that you
can tighten the slug. The hard part is not moving the slug again
when opening the door. The trick is to loosen the slug just enough so
that you need a fair amount of force to move the door and it when
adjusting.
In your particular case, try moving the *bottom* pin. The bracket it
fits in isn't infinitely adjustable like the top one but has some way
of adjusting the pivot position; usually, a serrated slot. Moving
the bottom pin closer to the wall will drop the outside corner of the
top. If moving the bottom pivot drops the top too much and it
touches the other door, adjust the top pivot again. As I said, it
takes some fiddling.
It may be that the *OTHER* door needs to be adjusted. Your goal is
to get each door top parallel to the track and an even reveal in the
center where they met when closed. When that is done, the reveal
between the doors and the walls at the pivot end may be skewed, can't
help it, the walls aren't plumb and/or the track isn't level.

Adjust the evenness of the door tops by turning the bottom pivot up
or down as needed. Ideally, raise them to just below the track edge
so that they can't jump the track. The door bottoms may wind up at
slightly different heights, can't help it, the track and/or floor are
not level.
Worst case, remove the doors and trim as needed. If the doors once
fit the space, that should not be needed.

Yesterday, after hours of shifting, adjusting, and pushing, I realized that
the bottom pin is exactly as you described. I kept thinking that the bottom
pin fit into the hole in the bottom plate. It soon became apparent (if you
call a few hours "soon") that this was a dead end. That's when I
repositioned the bottom pin into one of the serrated slots. Next, the
problem was that I could not just put the top pin into its respective hole
and slide the doors into the track. Even pushing the pin all the way down
didn't give it enough clearance. So I had to tilt the doors to the side
while pushing on the pin and then slowly line everything up. It took a few
tries to find the correct positioning of the bottom pin and if I ever have
to do this again, I will pay attention to where the bottom pin lives before
I remove the doors!

Thanks for everyone's help with this.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA