My daughter's overpriced flat iron uses this exact cord with built-in GFCI/ALCI:

http://goo.gl/XUQEv

The cord rotates at the iron, as you can see from the non-plug end. How does the
connector disconnect from the iron? I don't want to pull on it. Might there be a
retaining clip inside?

Does a flat iron that's plugged into a GFCI outlet, as is required by code in
bathrooms in US, even need an inline GFCI?

Home Depot has this replacement that might even be a better quality GFCI:

http://goo.gl/m5IKI

I've learned to save the cord from a defective hair dryer if the GFCI is still
good. These parts are probably $2 from China, but they're $20 or more in the US.

On a somewhat related question, can someone suggest a very compact inline method
of splicing a DC power cord? I've used these in the past for replacing DC power
connectors on laptop power supplies, but the strain relief is in the way.

http://goo.gl/ygGbO

Rather than a connector, I'd rather find some sort of cable splice. If that
fails, I can always solder wire-to-wire and cover the splice with heat shrink
tubing.

On Dec 6, 9:07*am, mcp6453 wrote:
My daughter's overpriced flat iron uses this exact cord with built-in GFCI/ALCI:

http://goo.gl/XUQEv

The cord rotates at the iron, as you can see from the non-plug end. How does the
connector disconnect from the iron? I don't want to pull on it. Might there be a
retaining clip inside?

Who knows for sure. But in general the usual means of attachment
a

The retaining strain relief, etc is somewhat soft and it's just
pushed into the hole, relies on a groove to hold it in

clip, or nut

one half of the hole is in two halves of the case that come
together and hold it when assembled.



Does a flat iron that's plugged into a GFCI outlet, as is required by code in
bathrooms in US, even need an inline GFCI?

From a safety standpoint, if it's only used in an outlet that
is GFCI, then no, it does not. But obviously it's very easy
to then use it somewhere that is not GFCI.





Home Depot has this replacement that might even be a better quality GFCI:

http://goo.gl/m5IKI

I've learned to save the cord from a defective hair dryer if the GFCI is still
good. These parts are probably $2 from China, but they're $20 or more in the US.

If it's $2 in china, I'll bet I can find something like it on
Ebay for $4, with free shipping.




On a somewhat related question, can someone suggest a very compact inline method
of splicing a DC power cord? I've used these in the past for replacing DC power
connectors on laptop power supplies, but the strain relief is in the way.

http://goo.gl/ygGbO

Rather than a connector, I'd rather find some sort of cable splice. If that
fails, I can always solder wire-to-wire and cover the splice with heat shrink
tubing.

The solder/splice is what I've always done. You could use one
of the butt type crimp connectors too, but soldering leaves less
bulk.

On 12/6/2012 8:07 AM, mcp6453 wrote:
My daughter's overpriced flat iron uses this exact cord with built-in GFCI/ALCI:

http://goo.gl/XUQEv

The cord rotates at the iron, as you can see from the non-plug end. How does the
connector disconnect from the iron? I don't want to pull on it. Might there be a
retaining clip inside?

Possibly, but I'd guess from the way it looks the two halves separate
and just putting them together holds it.

....

On a somewhat related question, can someone suggest a very compact inline method
of splicing a DC power cord? I've used these in the past for replacing DC power
connectors on laptop power supplies, but the strain relief is in the way.

http://goo.gl/ygGbO

Rather than a connector, I'd rather find some sort of cable splice. If that
fails, I can always solder wire-to-wire and cover the splice with heat shrink
tubing.

I've used the above connectors on a lot of stuff, too. Lastest was to
add an additional low-amp output from battery charger to a sealed
battery pack for an old 'lectric-start push mower that the charger had
died for.

For another w/o the strain reliefs, look at the Amphenol 44 series inline --

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/044%20104%2010002%2002/361-1107-ND/1036151

I don't have any better splicing ideas -- haven't really seen anything
that isn't essentially as bulky as the connector.

--

In article ,
mcp6453 wrote:

My daughter's overpriced flat iron uses this exact cord with built-in
GFCI/ALCI:

http://goo.gl/XUQEv

The cord rotates at the iron, as you can see from the non-plug end. How does
the
connector disconnect from the iron? I don't want to pull on it. Might there
be a
retaining clip inside?

Does a flat iron that's plugged into a GFCI outlet, as is required by code in
bathrooms in US, even need an inline GFCI?

Home Depot has this replacement that might even be a better quality GFCI:

http://goo.gl/m5IKI

I've learned to save the cord from a defective hair dryer if the GFCI is
still
good. These parts are probably $2 from China, but they're $20 or more in the
US.

On a somewhat related question, can someone suggest a very compact inline
method
of splicing a DC power cord? I've used these in the past for replacing DC
power
connectors on laptop power supplies, but the strain relief is in the way.

http://goo.gl/ygGbO

Rather than a connector, I'd rather find some sort of cable splice. If that
fails, I can always solder wire-to-wire and cover the splice with heat shrink
tubing.

You could look at IDC splices, but what is it about soldering you don't
like? It seems like the best solution to me.

(Insulation Displacement Connector, the squeeze-on technology with teeth
that bite through the insulation to contact the conductor. Common in
after-market switch-wheels for lamp cords, and the way those big ribbon
cables in your computer are terminated.)

On 12/6/2012 9:58 AM, dpb wrote:
On 12/6/2012 8:07 AM, mcp6453 wrote:
My daughter's overpriced flat iron uses this exact cord with built-in GFCI/ALCI:

http://goo.gl/XUQEv

The cord rotates at the iron, as you can see from the non-plug end. How does the
connector disconnect from the iron? I don't want to pull on it. Might there be a
retaining clip inside?

Possibly, but I'd guess from the way it looks the two halves separate and just
putting them together holds it.

...

On a somewhat related question, can someone suggest a very compact inline method
of splicing a DC power cord? I've used these in the past for replacing DC power
connectors on laptop power supplies, but the strain relief is in the way.

http://goo.gl/ygGbO

Rather than a connector, I'd rather find some sort of cable splice. If that
fails, I can always solder wire-to-wire and cover the splice with heat shrink
tubing.

I've used the above connectors on a lot of stuff, too. Lastest was to add an
additional low-amp output from battery charger to a sealed battery pack for an
old 'lectric-start push mower that the charger had died for.

For another w/o the strain reliefs, look at the Amphenol 44 series inline --

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/044%20104%2010002%2002/361-1107-ND/1036151


I don't have any better splicing ideas -- haven't really seen anything that
isn't essentially as bulky as the connector.

Thanks for the pointer to the 44 series. They look interesting.

I believe that I may get some uninsulated butt splices and use them with heat
shrink. That arrangement will solve some problems. The inline connectors look
like a great choice for critical projects.