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I have a 6-yr. old Trane air conditioner. Last year I had a problem with it and spent over $1000 - replaceing the coolant in it. I think the same thing is happening again and I am reluctant to spend more money to fix it. One reason is that I read stories about the newer model air conditioners used a different kind of coolant that is much cheaper. Does anyone have any experience with this? What brand is best? Or does a lot depend on who installs it? I don't know if there has been anything recent in Consumer Reports -- would have to make a trip to the library and look because I don't take it. Appreciate any "been there, done that advice". this is a major expense ...
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On Oct 1, 5:15*pm, Dottie wrote:
I have a 6-yr. old Trane air conditioner. *Last year I had a problem with it and spent over $1000 - replaceing the coolant in it.


IF the refrigerant was leaking, what was the cause?
If it was a failed evaporator for example, I would think
it would have been under warranty on a system only
6 years old....



*I think the same thing is happening again and I am reluctant to spend
more money to fix it. *One reason is that I read stories about the
newer model air conditioners used a different kind of coolant that is
much cheaper.

New ones use R410, which may be cheaper. R12 is
being phased out over time, but it's still available and
any price differential isn't going to be the determining
factor with your system.



Does anyone have any experience with this? *What brand is best? *Or
does a lot depend on who installs it?

The cheapest eqpt installed by the best installer is
going to be better than the best eqpt installed by a
half-assed installer.


*I don't know if there has been anything recent in Consumer Reports --
would have to make a trip to the library and look because I don't take
it. *Appreciate any "been there, done that advice". *this is a major
expense ...

I looked at this a couple years ago and concluded Rheem
had reliability equal to or better than some systems that
are perceived as higher end and at much lower cost.

You need to get someone that knows what they are doing
to look at your system. If it's a simple leak, it should be
very cost effective to fix and recharge. If something major
is shot, I'd look at the warranty.
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Where do you get your R-12? I run into boxes that use it, now and again.
Havn't seen it for sale, in ten plus years.

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...


New ones use R410, which may be cheaper. R12 is
being phased out over time, but it's still available and
any price differential isn't going to be the determining
factor with your system.




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"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
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Where do you get your R-12? I run into boxes that use it, now and again.
Havn't seen it for sale, in ten plus years.


He probably typoed it. R-22 is for the house and r-12 is for the cars. Or
maybe I should have said was.



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On Mon, 1 Oct 2012 14:15:39 -0700 (PDT), Dottie
wrote:

I have a 6-yr. old Trane air conditioner. Last year I had a problem with it and spent over $1000 - replaceing the coolant in it. I think the same thing is happening again and I am reluctant to spend more money to fix it. One reason is that I read stories about the newer model air conditioners used a different kind of coolant that is much cheaper. Does anyone have any experience with this? What brand is best? Or does a lot depend on who installs it? I don't know if there has been anything recent in Consumer Reports -- would have to make a trip to the library and look because I don't take it. Appreciate any "been there, done that advice". this is a major expense ...



I just had an evaporator coil replaced so I'm guessing your's is the
same. Mine cost $1800 with freon. I think they can change the type
freon based on the evaporator coil but you need to confirm this as I'm
not 100% sure on this. If you do replace the evaporator coil, make
sure it's warranteed for 10 years unless you will not live in this
house more than 5 years.


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On Oct 1, 6:24*pm, "Ralph Mowery" wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message

...

Where do you get your R-12? I run into boxes that use it, now and again..
Havn't seen it for sale, in ten plus years.


He probably typoed it. *R-22 is for the house and r-12 is for the cars. Or
maybe I should have said was.


Yes, my bad. I meant R-22. Essential point is that it's
still available and if her system has a leak that is easily
repairable there is no reason that it can't be fixed and
re-charged. Could be as simple as a leaking schrader
valve. On the other hand, if it's an evaporator that's shot
you would think being only 6 years old that would still
be under warranty....
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On Oct 1, 4:15*pm, Dottie wrote:
I have a 6-yr. old Trane air conditioner. *Last year I had a problem with it and spent over $1000 - replaceing the coolant in it. *I think the same thing is happening again and I am reluctant to spend more money to fix it. *One reason is that I read stories about the newer model air conditioners used a different kind of coolant that is much cheaper. *Does anyone have any experience with this? *What brand is best? *Or does a lot depend on who installs it? *I don't know if there has been anything recent in Consumer Reports -- would have to make a trip to the library and look because I don't take it. *Appreciate any "been there, done that advice". *this is a major expense ...


I am guessing that this is a central air unit and not a window unit,
but it would be nice to be more specific.
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"bud--" wrote in message
b.com...
It does seem like you shouldn't have to junk a 6 yr old system.

Were they even making air conditioners with R-22 6 years ago?


Yes, they were. I had a Train heat pump put in about 5 or 6 years ago.

I bought a house that was about 20 years old and after a year or two the
heat pump quit, so I had a new system put in. I think it was a 14 sear
unit. At that time I could have had either type of refregerant unit
installed. I went with the r-22 as it runs under less pressuer. My
thinking is the r-22 had been around a long time and the bugs should be
worked out. Also under less presssure should mean the pump does not work as
hard.
I also had about 15 pounds of r-22 left over from when I lived in another
house and had to charge the unit there about once every two years.

I would think if the system is only 6 years old and it needs replacing, it
was either junk to start with or some repair or installer does not know what
they are doing.


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I'll admit, I've not worked with the new 410A. But, I figure higher
pressures mean more likely leaks, and harder working compressors. As such, I
agree with you. I'll stick with the old stuff as long as possible.
Eventually, the price of refrigerant will go up, and we'll have to change
over. But, the old R-22 will be available for several more years.

Christopher A. Young
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"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
news
Yes, they were. I had a Train heat pump put in about 5 or 6 years ago.

I bought a house that was about 20 years old and after a year or two the
heat pump quit, so I had a new system put in. I think it was a 14 sear
unit. At that time I could have had either type of refregerant unit
installed. I went with the r-22 as it runs under less pressuer. My
thinking is the r-22 had been around a long time and the bugs should be
worked out. Also under less presssure should mean the pump does not work as
hard.
I also had about 15 pounds of r-22 left over from when I lived in another
house and had to charge the unit there about once every two years.

I would think if the system is only 6 years old and it needs replacing, it
was either junk to start with or some repair or installer does not know what
they are doing.




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"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I'll admit, I've not worked with the new 410A. But, I figure higher
pressures mean more likely leaks, and harder working compressors. As such,
I
agree with you. I'll stick with the old stuff as long as possible.
Eventually, the price of refrigerant will go up, and we'll have to change
over. But, the old R-22 will be available for several more years.


I do not work in that field, but from what I have read, I do not think you
can buy a full r-22 system now.

I think there are some of the parts around and they can be pieced
together. That I would not do. I much perfer just getting a matching
system. That way if it fails under warrenty there is only one finger to
point and that is at the person the system was bought from.


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I think the setup now, you can buy the full system without refrigerant. Used
to be, the outdoor unit had a couple pounds of refrigerant already in it.
"batteries sold separately".

Christopher A. Young
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"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
...

I do not work in that field, but from what I have read, I do not think you
can buy a full r-22 system now.

I think there are some of the parts around and they can be pieced
together. That I would not do. I much perfer just getting a matching
system. That way if it fails under warrenty there is only one finger to
point and that is at the person the system was bought from.




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On Oct 1, 5:15*pm, Dottie wrote:
I have a 6-yr. old Trane air conditioner. *Last year I had a problem with it and spent over $1000 - replaceing the coolant in it. *I think the same thing is happening again and I am reluctant to spend more money to fix it. *One reason is that I read stories about the newer model air conditioners used a different kind of coolant that is much cheaper. *Does anyone have any experience with this? *What brand is best? *Or does a lot depend on who installs it? *I don't know if there has been anything recent in Consumer Reports -- would have to make a trip to the library and look because I don't take it. *Appreciate any "been there, done that advice". *this is a major expense ...


So when you replaced your 6-yr old Trane unit
did you "only replace the equipment outside"
or did you replace the refrigerant lines and the
coil inside as well ?

Your problems could have nothing to do with
the outside equipment if you reused much
older lines and coil inside to try and save
money...

Do you have any useful information about your
problem other than your machine is 6-years-old
and you spent $1,000 dealing with it last year ?
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On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 10:38:38 PM UTC-4, Evan wrote:
On Oct 1, 5:15*pm, Dottie wrote:

I have a 6-yr. old Trane air conditioner. *Last year I had a problem with it and spent over $1000 - replaceing the coolant in it. *I think the same thing is happening again and I am reluctant to spend more money to fix it. *One reason is that I read stories about the newer model air conditioners used a different kind of coolant that is much cheaper. *Does anyone have any experience with this? *What brand is best? *Or does a lot depend on who installs it? *I don't know if there has been anything recent in Consumer Reports -- would have to make a trip to the library and look because I don't take it. *Appreciate any "been there, done that advice". *this is a major expense ...




So when you replaced your 6-yr old Trane unit

did you "only replace the equipment outside"

or did you replace the refrigerant lines and the

coil inside as well ?



Your problems could have nothing to do with

the outside equipment if you reused much

older lines and coil inside to try and save

money...



Do you have any useful information about your

problem other than your machine is 6-years-old

and you spent $1,000 dealing with it last year ?








The Trane a/c was both the condenser which sits outside and the air handler which is inside the garage. It was installed 10/01/07. When I had problems earlier this year they said it needed a new part. In order to install the new part they had to drain the refrigerant and then put in new. It was awhile after that I heard a story on TV about how the old refrigerants cost so much now ... and I was wondering, if I should replace the unit and get a new one that uses cheaper and newer refrigerant. The repair in April was over $1000 and I sure don't want to repeat that.
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On Oct 3, 6:54*pm, Dottie wrote:
On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 10:38:38 PM UTC-4, Evan wrote:
On Oct 1, 5:15*pm, Dottie wrote:


I have a 6-yr. old Trane air conditioner. *Last year I had a problem with it and spent over $1000 - replaceing the coolant in it. *I think the same thing is happening again and I am reluctant to spend more money to fix it. *One reason is that I read stories about the newer model air conditioners used a different kind of coolant that is much cheaper. *Does anyone have any experience with this? *What brand is best? *Or does a lot depend on who installs it? *I don't know if there has been anything recent in Consumer Reports -- would have to make a trip to the library and look because I don't take it. *Appreciate any "been there, done that advice". *this is a major expense ...


So when you replaced your 6-yr old Trane unit


did you "only replace the equipment outside"


or did you replace the refrigerant lines and the


coil inside as well ?


Your problems could have nothing to do with


the outside equipment if you reused much


older lines and coil inside to try and save


money...


Do you have any useful information about your


problem other than your machine is 6-years-old


and you spent $1,000 dealing with it last year ?


The Trane a/c was both the condenser which sits outside and the air handler which is inside the garage. *It was installed 10/01/07. *When I had problems earlier this year they said it needed a new part. *In order to install the new part they had to drain the refrigerant and then put in new. *It was awhile after that I heard a story on TV about how the old refrigerants cost so much now ... and I was wondering, if I should replace the unit and get a new one that uses cheaper and newer refrigerant. *The repair in April was over $1000 and I sure don't want to repeat that.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


How much R22 you want to buy?

http://www.r22forsale.com/

I don't know how much goes in your particular
system, but I bet it's maybe a third of one of those
cylinders.

That TV story is about what you can expect from the
media today. A lot of drama and nonsense. Yes, R22
is more expensive. It costs
about 2X what R410A costs. Even after mark up,
it should make a difference of a couple hundred bucks,
assuming they have to recharge the whole thing.
Now, how much is a whole new system going to cost?

The real question is what is really wrong with the
6 year old system. It could be a leaking shrader
valve that costs $1. Or the whole thing could be
kaput. If it's the latter, I would hope there is a warranty
on it.



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"Dottie" wrote in message
...

The Trane a/c was both the condenser which sits outside and the air
handler which is inside the garage. It was installed 10/01/07. When I had
problems earlier this year they said it needed a new part. In order to
install the new part they had to drain the refrigerant and then put in new.
It was awhile after that I heard a story on TV about how the old
refrigerants cost so much now ... and I was wondering, if I should replace
the unit and get a new one that uses cheaper and newer refrigerant. The
repair in April was over $1000 and I sure don't want to repeat
that.



If there was any refrigerant in the system, they are suspose to have a
machine to put it in and save it. There is a big fine if they just dump it
into the air.

There should not be more than a few pounds in the system. I doubt there
would have been over $ 100 worth. As "Trader" mentioned, the differance in
the two kinds is not that much for the ammount used.

If you have a bill , I would check it to see what they charged for each
thing they did and the parts used.



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On Oct 3, 5:54*pm, Dottie wrote:
On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 10:38:38 PM UTC-4, Evan wrote:
On Oct 1, 5:15*pm, Dottie wrote:


I have a 6-yr. old Trane air conditioner. *Last year I had a problem with it and spent over $1000 - replaceing the coolant in it. *I think the same thing is happening again and I am reluctant to spend more money to fix it. *One reason is that I read stories about the newer model air conditioners used a different kind of coolant that is much cheaper. *Does anyone have any experience with this? *What brand is best? *Or does a lot depend on who installs it? *I don't know if there has been anything recent in Consumer Reports -- would have to make a trip to the library and look because I don't take it. *Appreciate any "been there, done that advice". *this is a major expense ...


So when you replaced your 6-yr old Trane unit


did you "only replace the equipment outside"


or did you replace the refrigerant lines and the


coil inside as well ?


Your problems could have nothing to do with


the outside equipment if you reused much


older lines and coil inside to try and save


money...


Do you have any useful information about your


problem other than your machine is 6-years-old


and you spent $1,000 dealing with it last year ?


The Trane a/c was both the condenser which sits outside and the air handler which is inside the garage. *It was installed 10/01/07. *When I had problems earlier this year they said it needed a new part. *In order to install the new part they had to drain the refrigerant and then put in new. *It was awhile after that I heard a story on TV about how the old refrigerants cost so much now ... and I was wondering, if I should replace the unit and get a new one that uses cheaper and newer refrigerant. *The repair in April was over $1000 and I sure don't want to repeat that.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


OK - But what part was it that they replaced, and did they show you
the defective part and the difference between the defective part and
what they replaced it with? Next time remember to ask these
questions so that you don't get "taken" because being a woman it is
more likely to happen to you, unfortunately.
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If you have a chance, please tell us what was the part they replaced.

Christopher A. Young
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"Dottie" wrote in message
...

The Trane a/c was both the condenser which sits outside and the air handler
which is inside the garage. It was installed 10/01/07. When I had problems
earlier this year they said it needed a new part. In order to install the
new part they had to drain the refrigerant and then put in new. It was
awhile after that I heard a story on TV about how the old refrigerants cost
so much now ... and I was wondering, if I should replace the unit and get a
new one that uses cheaper and newer refrigerant. The repair in April was
over $1000 and I sure don't want to repeat that.


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On Oct 3, 10:20*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
If you have a chance, *please tell us what was the part they replaced.


I wouldn't be surprise to find out it was a TXV valve.
And that it was caused by clogging from improper
installation, eg not running nitrogen when brazing.
And that they screwed it up a second time.

But just speculating, I agree it would be good to
know what it was, if any of it was covered under
warranty, etc. With a system just 6 years old you
would hope that whatever is wrong it would either
be a reasonable cost to fix or else covered under
warranty.
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My guess was also TXV. They could have pumped the charge into the condensing
unit, and put in the new TXV. Filter drier right before the TXV.

Calling it a TXV valve (thermostatic expansion valve valve) makes as much
sense as asking for the VIN number of a vehicle (Vehicle identification
number number). Or, the USPS service, the Unted States Postal Service
Service.

Christopher A. Young
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wrote in message
...
On Oct 3, 10:20 pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
If you have a chance, please tell us what was the part they replaced.


I wouldn't be surprise to find out it was a TXV valve.
And that it was caused by clogging from improper
installation, eg not running nitrogen when brazing.
And that they screwed it up a second time.

But just speculating, I agree it would be good to
know what it was, if any of it was covered under
warranty, etc. With a system just 6 years old you
would hope that whatever is wrong it would either
be a reasonable cost to fix or else covered under
warranty.




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In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

My guess was also TXV. They could have pumped the charge into the condensing
unit, and put in the new TXV. Filter drier right before the TXV.

Calling it a TXV valve (thermostatic expansion valve valve) makes as much
sense as asking for the VIN number of a vehicle (Vehicle identification
number number). Or, the USPS service, the Unted States Postal Service
Service.




A entire city block of land was given to the city by a wealthy woman
many years ago, to be used as a park. Her name was Alice Keck Park. The
correct name of the park is Alice Keck Park Park. But everyone just
calls it Alice Keck Park.
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Now, that must have her rolling over in her grave.

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"Smitty Two" wrote in message
...

A entire city block of land was given to the city by a wealthy woman
many years ago, to be used as a park. Her name was Alice Keck Park. The
correct name of the park is Alice Keck Park Park. But everyone just
calls it Alice Keck Park.


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On Oct 4, 9:35*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
My guess was also TXV. They could have pumped the charge into the condensing
unit, and put in the new TXV. Filter drier right before the TXV.

Calling it a TXV valve (thermostatic expansion valve valve) makes as much
sense as asking for the VIN number of a vehicle (Vehicle identification
number number). Or, the USPS service, the Unted States Postal Service
Service.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...
On Oct 3, 10:20 pm, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
If you have a chance, please tell us what was the part they replaced.


I wouldn't be surprise to find out it was a TXV valve.
And that it was caused by clogging from improper
installation, eg not running nitrogen when brazing.
And that they screwed it up a second time.

But just speculating, I agree it would be good to
know what it was, if any of it was covered under
warranty, etc. *With a system just 6 years old you
would hope that whatever is wrong it would either
be a reasonable cost to fix or else covered under
warranty.


Except that with your examples far more people understand
what the USPS is, as it is common lexicon...

Fewer people understand what a VIN is and you would refer
to a VIN number when using the acronym to provide context
to what you are describing, you would never write it out or
say it the way you referred: "Vehicle identification number
number" as that would just be silly...

As for the TXV valve, far fewer people even know what that is
compared to those who know what a VIN number is... So
by adding the "valve" description to the end which you find
unnecessary provides context to those who don't know what
that part is, other than it is a valve...
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