Hi All,

I need to paint a bathroom. What tools/parts/materials
do I need to purchase (paint is pretty obvious).

The shower is a one piece fiberglass shower. It leaves
about two feed of sheet rock on its vertical sides to
the sheet rock sealing. Where the sheet rock hits
the fiberglass is pealing. So, include what i need
the repair that too. Sandpaper? spackle?

Hopeless,
-T

On Sep 11, 4:02*pm, Todd wrote:
Hi All,

I need to paint a bathroom. *What tools/parts/materials
do I need to purchase (paint is pretty obvious).

The shower is a one piece fiberglass shower. *It leaves
about two feed of sheet rock on its vertical sides to
the sheet rock sealing. *Where the sheet rock hits
the fiberglass is pealing. *So, include what i need
the repair that too. *Sandpaper? spackle?

Hopeless,
-T

Do yourself a favor and do a Google search on bathroom painting and
bathroom wall repair.

You'll find videos galore and step by step instructions from multiple
sources. I can't imagine that you won't learn everything you need to
learn from them.

If you have any specific questions after viewing some of those videos,
come on back.

On Sep 11, 3:02*pm, Todd wrote:
Hi All,

I need to paint a bathroom. *What tools/parts/materials
do I need to purchase (paint is pretty obvious).

The shower is a one piece fiberglass shower. *It leaves
about two feed of sheet rock on its vertical sides to
the sheet rock sealing. *Where the sheet rock hits
the fiberglass is pealing. *So, include what i need
the repair that too. *Sandpaper? spackle?

Hopeless,
-T

What derbydad said. Also get a dictionary,.sealing should be ceiling,
pealing should be peeling, unless you are listening to bells.

On Tue, 11 Sep 2012 13:31:11 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

What derbydad said. Also get a dictionary,.sealing should be ceiling,
pealing should be peeling, unless you are listening to bells.

I 2nd and 3rd that motion.

On 09/11/2012 01:31 PM, hr(bob) wrote:
sealing should be ceiling

Oh now that is embarrassing!

Todd:

I have no clue why your fiberglass tub/shower would be "peeling", and I have even less idea as to how to fix something like that.

But, believe it or not, the single biggest thing you need to do when painting a bathroom is to buy the RIGHT paint. That's because not all latex paints are equally resistant to moisture and humidity, and low priced paints will crack and peel under conditions of high humidity.

The advantage in buying a paint specifically made to be used in bathrooms is:

1. You're getting a binder resin that was chosen because of it's excellent resistance to moisture and humidity, so the bathroom will stay looking "newly painted" for a long time, and

2. Bathroom paints will have a powdered mildewcide added to them. This mildewcide is so highly soluble in water that even the high humidity on one side of the paint will cause the mildewcide to migrate through the paint film to the surface, where it will kill any mildew spores before they have a chance to grow.

I know of two paints specifically made for bathrooms. The first is Zinsser's "PermaWhite" available at Home Depot, and the second is simply called "Bath Paint" and is available at Sherwin Williams paint stores. I've been having a lot of problems with bubbles forming in Zinsser's Permawhite lately. I literally have to use an electric leaf blower to break the bubbles that form in that paint before it dries. So, in this post I'm gonna warn people away from Zinsser's and suggest you buy some Sherwin Williams Bath Paint.

On 9/11/2012 4:02 PM, Todd wrote:
Hi All,

I need to paint a bathroom. What tools/parts/materials
do I need to purchase (paint is pretty obvious).

The shower is a one piece fiberglass shower. It leaves
about two feed of sheet rock on its vertical sides to
the sheet rock sealing. Where the sheet rock hits
the fiberglass is pealing. So, include what i need
the repair that too. Sandpaper? spackle?

Hopeless,
-T

Scraper or putty knife (p.k. is more flexible)
Spackle
Latex primer
Semi-gloss paint
Paintable caulk
Small foam paint roller
2" paint brush (not natural bristle); buy a good one if you plan to ever
paint again
Something to catch the drips; plastic sheet, newspaper, etc.
Stirring stick for paint
Rags
Spit (for smoothing the caulk)

Gently scrape the loose paint. Patch the peeled spots with spackle, let
dry, smooth with sandpaper or damp sponge. Apply primer, let dry.
Carefully apply caulk along join of shower and sheet rock; let it set.
Paint. I'm thinking that if you can't even come up with your own
shopping list for painting a bathroom, you are going to be stuck at
applying the caulk. If you seemed a tad more experienced, I'd recomment
alkyd semi-gloss paint for the bath...kinda' icky to clean up. Let us
know how it goes! You in college?

On Sep 11, 10:05*pm, nestork wrote:
Todd:

I have no clue why your fiberglass tub/shower would be "peeling", and I
have even less idea as to how to fix something like that.

I believe that you interpreted his statement incorrectly.

"Where the sheet rock hits the fiberglass is pealing."

It's not the fiberglass that's peeling, it's the junction where the 2
materials meet.

I need to tackle the same problem in one of my bathrooms. Along the
top edge of one of the fiberglass walls you can see about a 1/2" of
greenboard. The paint has peeled off in that area. It may have peeled
off of the caulk since the paint and primer are both gone.

But, believe it or not, the single biggest thing you need to do when
painting a bathroom is to buy the RIGHT paint. *That's because not all
latex paints are equally resistant to moisture and humidity, and low
priced paints will crack and peel under conditions of high humidity.

The advantage in buying a paint specifically made to be used in
bathrooms is:

1. You're getting a binder resin that was chosen because of it's
excellent resistance to moisture and humidity, so the bathroom will stay
looking "newly painted" for a long time, and

2. Bathroom paints will have a powdered mildewcide added to them. *This
mildewcide is so highly soluble in water that even the high humidity on
one side of the paint will cause the mildewcide to migrate through the
paint film to the surface, where it will kill any mildew spores before
they have a chance to grow.

I know of two paints specifically made for bathrooms. *The first is
Zinsser's "PermaWhite" available at Home Depot, and the second is simply
called "Bath Paint" and is available at Sherwin Williams paint stores.
I've been having a lot of problems with bubbles forming in Zinsser's
Permawhite lately. *I literally have to use an electric leaf blower to
break the bubbles that form in that paint before it dries. *So, in this
post I'm gonna warn people away from Zinsser's and suggest you buy some
Sherwin Williams Bath Paint.

--
nestork

On 9/11/2012 10:10 PM, nestork wrote:
Todd:

I have no clue why your fiberglass tub/shower would be "peeling", and I
have even less idea as to how to fix something like that.

But, believe it or not, the single biggest thing you need to do when
painting a bathroom is to buy the RIGHT paint. That's because not all
latex paints are equally resistant to moisture and humidity, and low
priced paints will crack and peel under conditions of high humidity.

I disagree. The "right" paint doesn't need to be special for baths.
The prep is critical and will usually let any kind of paint stand up to
conditions....I've painted kitchens and baths quite a few times. One
big problem in both is that moisture condenses and runs down
walls/doors/trim and then wicks into unsealed surfaces. Ever see
bathroom doors with wood cracking and expanding along the bottom? Same
along lower edge of baseboards?

The advantage in buying a paint specifically made to be used in
bathrooms is:

1. You're getting a binder resin that was chosen because of it's
excellent resistance to moisture and humidity, so the bathroom will stay
looking "newly painted" for a long time, and

Decent paint applied after careful prep will keep out moisture. I've
never seen a painted wall with damage from moisture seeping THROUGH an
intact paint film. Of course, if the structure is closed up and not
maintained for a long time, mildew might eventually eat through paint.

2. Bathroom paints will have a powdered mildewcide added to them. This
mildewcide is so highly soluble in water that even the high humidity on
one side of the paint will cause the mildewcide to migrate through the
paint film to the surface, where it will kill any mildew spores before
they have a chance to grow.

I know of two paints specifically made for bathrooms. The first is
Zinsser's "PermaWhite" available at Home Depot, and the second is simply
called "Bath Paint" and is available at Sherwin Williams paint stores.
I've been having a lot of problems with bubbles forming in Zinsser's
Permawhite lately. I literally have to use an electric leaf blower to
break the bubbles that form in that paint before it dries. So, in this
post I'm gonna warn people away from Zinsser's and suggest you buy some
Sherwin Williams Bath Paint.

I haven't used the paint you mention, but bubbling can be reduced by
thinning (my experience with other paints and varnishes).

On Tue, 11 Sep 2012 13:02:13 -0700, Todd wrote:

Hi All,

I need to paint a bathroom. What tools/parts/materials
do I need to purchase (paint is pretty obvious).

The shower is a one piece fiberglass shower. It leaves
about two feed of sheet rock on its vertical sides to
the sheet rock sealing. Where the sheet rock hits
the fiberglass is pealing. So, include what i need
the repair that too. Sandpaper? spackle?

Hopeless,
-T

The only tools you need is a telephone and your yellow pages phone book.
Look under "P" for painters.

On 09/12/2012 04:15 AM, Norminn wrote:
On 9/11/2012 4:02 PM, Todd wrote:
Hi All,

I need to paint a bathroom. What tools/parts/materials
do I need to purchase (paint is pretty obvious).

The shower is a one piece fiberglass shower. It leaves
about two feed of sheet rock on its vertical sides to
the sheet rock sealing. Where the sheet rock hits
the fiberglass is pealing. So, include what i need
the repair that too. Sandpaper? spackle?

Hopeless,
-T

Scraper or putty knife (p.k. is more flexible)
Spackle
Latex primer
Semi-gloss paint
Paintable caulk
Small foam paint roller
2" paint brush (not natural bristle); buy a good one if you plan to ever
paint again
Something to catch the drips; plastic sheet, newspaper, etc.
Stirring stick for paint
Rags
Spit (for smoothing the caulk)

Gently scrape the loose paint. Patch the peeled spots with spackle, let
dry, smooth with sandpaper or damp sponge. Apply primer, let dry.
Carefully apply caulk along join of shower and sheet rock; let it set.
Paint. I'm thinking that if you can't even come up with your own
shopping list for painting a bathroom, you are going to be stuck at
applying the caulk. If you seemed a tad more experienced, I'd recomment
alkyd semi-gloss paint for the bath...kinda' icky to clean up. Let us
know how it goes! You in college?

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for sharing your
knowledge with me. Don't care much for how to videos as
they tend to leave stuff out. ("What idiot would not know to
do this?" Well this idiot wouldn't.)

College was a long, long time ago.

Have to use Safe Coat, due to chemical sensitivities. Was going
to use their eggshell outdoor paint.

http://www.afmsafecoat.com/

AFM suggested M1 as a safe anti fungal. But still looking for
the MSDS. If any, and I mean any, human reaction, it is out.

Again, thank you so much,
-T

On 09/11/2012 07:10 PM, nestork wrote:
I have no clue why your fiberglass tub/shower would be "peeling", and I
have even less idea as to how to fix something like that.

Not the fiberglass, the paint on the sheet rock when it contacts
the top of the tub. It is pretty messed up too. I figure sand paper
and dig out any holes and fill the with spackle.

No, Norminn, what you're saying simply isn't correct.

Top quality latex paints in North America are made primarily from the same kind of plastic that Plexiglas is made of; namely polymethyl methacrylate or "PMMA" for short. In the paint industry, binder resins made of this kind of plastic are called "100% Acrylic", but PMMA resins vary greatly in their properties. There are PMMA resins that crosslink so densely that they are used as floor "wax" because the film they form is hard and durable. Similarily, not all PMMA paint resins have the same resistance to moisture and humidity. Some are better in that regard than others, and those with excellent resistance to moisture are used to make bathroom paints.


Well, that's because latex paints in North America are made primarily from one of two different kinds of plastics. "Budget priced" interior latex paints and general purpose primers are made from a plastic called "polyvinyl acetate" or PVA for short, and this is the same plastic that's used to make white wood glue. (there are some differences between the two resins, but they're very closely related) The problem with white wood glue is that it softens up and looses it's adhesion if it gets wet. If you've ever rested your head against a painted wall and found that your hair was sticking to the paint afterwards, that's because the wall was painted with a PVA resins based paint.

When you use an inexpensive PVA paint in a bathroom, the result of the exposure to moisture is that the paint cracks and peels, especially on the ceiling above the shower and high up on the walls where humidity is highest.

And, that is probably the most commonly misdiagnosed paint problem there is. Because most people don't know enough about latex paints, they presume the peeling is due to insufficient prep work, and really the problem is that the paint used has a low resistance to moisture and humidity.


Norminn, I own a small apartment block (21 apartments) so I do more painting than most people do.

Apartment rentals in Winnipeg, Manitoba

I tried EVERYTHING to eliminate those bubbles. I added water to the paint in the tray to thin it, I soaked the roller with water and then shook it out to remove the excess water, I tried using a Nour roller sleeve instead of my usual Pratt & Lambert roller sleeves, I e-mailed Rustoleum to notify them of the problem and asked what I could be doing wrong and so far they're ignoring me. I am not new to this, and I am having difficulty getting PermaWhite to work properly, and until I do I'm not going to recommend anyone else use it.

Todd:

Scrape off any loose and peeling paint.

If any surface paper comes off with the paint, then use the self adhesive fiberglass mesh drywall joint tape over those areas. Then, paint that mesh with white wood glue diluted with water to make it into a paintable consistancy. As the glue dries, it'll bond the fiberglass mesh to the paper.

If you have any areas where the paper is missing and the gypsum core is crumbling, remove the gypsum, fill with drywall joint compound, sand smooth, remove any dust and then use the fiberglass mesh over that.

THEN, prime and paint over your repairs with a paint specifically made to be used in bathrooms.

On Sep 12, 2:07*pm, Todd wrote:
On 09/11/2012 07:10 PM, nestork wrote:

I have no clue why your fiberglass tub/shower would be "peeling", and I
have even less idea as to how to fix something like that.

Not the fiberglass, the paint on the sheet rock when it contacts
the top of the tub. *It is pretty messed up too. *I figure sand paper
and dig out any holes and fill the with spackle.

I've been fighting that battle for 15 years, a crack always developes
along the junction between theplastic liner and the sheetrock. I
think it may have to do with the differing rates of expansion of the
two materials is more than the caulk can handle.

On Wed, 12 Sep 2012 13:45:29 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

Not the fiberglass, the paint on the sheet rock when it contacts
the top of the tub. *It is pretty messed up too. *I figure sand paper
and dig out any holes and fill the with spackle.

I've been fighting that battle for 15 years, a crack always developes
along the junction between theplastic liner and the sheetrock. I
think it may have to do with the differing rates of expansion of the
two materials is more than the caulk can handle.

Which kind of caulk have you used? Acrylic latex caulk will flex,
give and not have the cracks. Not to say it can't happen, but there
are less chances of separation.

On Sep 12, 4:36*pm, nestork wrote:
Todd;2925837 Wrote:

On 09/11/2012 07:10 PM, nestork wrote:-
I have no clue why your fiberglass tub/shower would be "peeling", and
I
have even less idea as to how to fix something like that.-

Not the fiberglass, the paint on the sheet rock when it contacts
the top of the tub. *It is pretty messed up too. *I figure sand paper
and dig out any holes and fill the with spackle.

Todd:

Scrape off any loose and peeling paint.

If any surface paper comes off with the paint, then use the self
adhesive fiberglass mesh drywall joint tape over those areas. *Then,
paint that mesh with white wood glue diluted with water to make it into
a paintable consistancy. *As the glue dries, it'll bond the fiberglass
mesh to the paper.

If you have any areas where the paper is missing and the gypsum core is
crumbling, remove the gypsum, fill with drywall joint compound, sand
smooth, remove any dust and then use the fiberglass mesh over that.

THEN, prime and paint over your repairs with a paint specifically made
to be used in bathrooms.

--
nestork

Didn't you leave out the step about caulking the seam between the top
of the fiberglass wall and the wall board?

On 09/12/2012 12:03 PM, Todd wrote:
Have to use Safe Coat, due to chemical sensitivities. Was going
to use their eggshell outdoor paint.

http://www.afmsafecoat.com/

AFM suggested M1 as a safe anti fungal. But still looking for
the MSDS. If any, and I mean any, human reaction, it is out.

Looked at MSDS for M1. Yikes! This stuff is toxic. Don't
think even healthy people should risk it.

In the mean time, found

http://www.ecoprotectiveproducts.com/bioshield.html

which uses silver nano particles. Completely non-toxic
to humans. Called the company: really nice people too.

-T

Todd wrote in :

On 09/12/2012 12:03 PM, Todd wrote:
Have to use Safe Coat, due to chemical sensitivities. Was going
to use their eggshell outdoor paint.

http://www.afmsafecoat.com/

AFM suggested M1 as a safe anti fungal. But still looking for
the MSDS. If any, and I mean any, human reaction, it is out.

Looked at MSDS for M1. Yikes! This stuff is toxic. Don't
think even healthy people should risk it.

In the mean time, found

http://www.ecoprotectiveproducts.com/bioshield.html

which uses silver nano particles. Completely non-toxic
to humans. Called the company: really nice people too.

-T

Ah, yes, nanoparticles. Just as healthy as those nice asbestos
particles fifty years ago...........

On 9/12/2012 3:03 PM, Todd wrote:
On 09/12/2012 04:15 AM, Norminn wrote:
On 9/11/2012 4:02 PM, Todd wrote:
Hi All,

I need to paint a bathroom. What tools/parts/materials
do I need to purchase (paint is pretty obvious).

The shower is a one piece fiberglass shower. It leaves
about two feed of sheet rock on its vertical sides to
the sheet rock sealing. Where the sheet rock hits
the fiberglass is pealing. So, include what i need
the repair that too. Sandpaper? spackle?

Hopeless,
-T

Scraper or putty knife (p.k. is more flexible)
Spackle
Latex primer
Semi-gloss paint
Paintable caulk
Small foam paint roller
2" paint brush (not natural bristle); buy a good one if you plan to ever
paint again
Something to catch the drips; plastic sheet, newspaper, etc.
Stirring stick for paint
Rags
Spit (for smoothing the caulk)

Gently scrape the loose paint. Patch the peeled spots with spackle, let
dry, smooth with sandpaper or damp sponge. Apply primer, let dry.
Carefully apply caulk along join of shower and sheet rock; let it set.
Paint. I'm thinking that if you can't even come up with your own
shopping list for painting a bathroom, you are going to be stuck at
applying the caulk. If you seemed a tad more experienced, I'd recomment
alkyd semi-gloss paint for the bath...kinda' icky to clean up. Let us
know how it goes! You in college?

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for sharing your
knowledge with me. Don't care much for how to videos as
they tend to leave stuff out. ("What idiot would not know to
do this?" Well this idiot wouldn't.)

College was a long, long time ago.

Have to use Safe Coat, due to chemical sensitivities. Was going
to use their eggshell outdoor paint.

http://www.afmsafecoat.com/

AFM suggested M1 as a safe anti fungal. But still looking for
the MSDS. If any, and I mean any, human reaction, it is out.

Again, thank you so much,
-T


Chemical sensitivities are nasty things....ya' never know what's going
to make your eyes puff up ) In the realm of anti-fungals, it may be
safer and more productive to focus on ventillation rather than worrying
about paint additives. The reason being: adding a.f. to paint doesn't
change YOUR environment, as it allows the air and unpainted surfaces to
grow stuff. Part of the reason I like semi-gloss paint for baths (and
in the warm south, it is almost the universal choice for exterior
paints) is that it is slicker so grubby stuff doesn't cling to it and
grow. After we added a timer to our bath exhaust fan and started
leaving the shower curtain open on both sides when not in use, the
shower didn't grow any more mildew. Wiping down the shower after use
(for the very ambitious) would help. People with chem. sensitivities
are more likely, I expect, to be troubled with mold/mildew. I'm really
a doubter about the anti-fungal additives because mildew just doesn't
grow on clean, dry surfaces very well) I discovered on my last
paint-the-bathroom job that the walls and ceiling stay wet for a
surprisingly long time (2-3 hours) after a shower with no fan use.

On 09/15/2012 04:53 AM, Norminn wrote:
On 9/12/2012 3:03 PM, Todd wrote:
On 09/12/2012 04:15 AM, Norminn wrote:
On 9/11/2012 4:02 PM, Todd wrote:
Hi All,

I need to paint a bathroom. What tools/parts/materials
do I need to purchase (paint is pretty obvious).

The shower is a one piece fiberglass shower. It leaves
about two feed of sheet rock on its vertical sides to
the sheet rock sealing. Where the sheet rock hits
the fiberglass is pealing. So, include what i need
the repair that too. Sandpaper? spackle?

Hopeless,
-T

Scraper or putty knife (p.k. is more flexible)
Spackle
Latex primer
Semi-gloss paint
Paintable caulk
Small foam paint roller
2" paint brush (not natural bristle); buy a good one if you plan to ever
paint again
Something to catch the drips; plastic sheet, newspaper, etc.
Stirring stick for paint
Rags
Spit (for smoothing the caulk)

Gently scrape the loose paint. Patch the peeled spots with spackle, let
dry, smooth with sandpaper or damp sponge. Apply primer, let dry.
Carefully apply caulk along join of shower and sheet rock; let it set.
Paint. I'm thinking that if you can't even come up with your own
shopping list for painting a bathroom, you are going to be stuck at
applying the caulk. If you seemed a tad more experienced, I'd recomment
alkyd semi-gloss paint for the bath...kinda' icky to clean up. Let us
know how it goes! You in college?

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for sharing your
knowledge with me. Don't care much for how to videos as
they tend to leave stuff out. ("What idiot would not know to
do this?" Well this idiot wouldn't.)

College was a long, long time ago.

Have to use Safe Coat, due to chemical sensitivities. Was going
to use their eggshell outdoor paint.

http://www.afmsafecoat.com/

AFM suggested M1 as a safe anti fungal. But still looking for
the MSDS. If any, and I mean any, human reaction, it is out.

Again, thank you so much,
-T


Chemical sensitivities are nasty things....ya' never know what's going
to make your eyes puff up ) In the realm of anti-fungals, it may be
safer and more productive to focus on ventillation rather than worrying
about paint additives. The reason being: adding a.f. to paint doesn't
change YOUR environment, as it allows the air and unpainted surfaces to
grow stuff. Part of the reason I like semi-gloss paint for baths (and
in the warm south, it is almost the universal choice for exterior
paints) is that it is slicker so grubby stuff doesn't cling to it and
grow. After we added a timer to our bath exhaust fan and started
leaving the shower curtain open on both sides when not in use, the
shower didn't grow any more mildew. Wiping down the shower after use
(for the very ambitious) would help. People with chem. sensitivities
are more likely, I expect, to be troubled with mold/mildew. I'm really
a doubter about the anti-fungal additives because mildew just doesn't
grow on clean, dry surfaces very well) I discovered on my last
paint-the-bathroom job that the walls and ceiling stay wet for a
surprisingly long time (2-3 hours) after a shower with no fan use.


Very good advice. Thank you. As far as anti-fungals, I have found
this paint:

http://www.ecoprotectiveproducts.com/bioshield.html

which uses silver nano particles. Completely non-toxic
to humans. Called the company: really nice people too.

And, keep it dry, keep it dry, keep it dry ...

-T