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#1
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Cleaning behind pool light
I know an actual on-topic discussion, I'll try not to do it again any
time soon (grin). I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get out? Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain. As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off at the breaker? Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out? Any other suggestions? -- America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the *******s."-- Claire Wolfe |
#2
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:16:21 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote: I know an actual on-topic discussion, I'll try not to do it again any time soon (grin). I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get out? I pulled and put a new bulb in my light this season. No algae behind it to speak of. Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain. Yes. No need to drain. Usually one Phillips screw to remove the light from the niche. Located at the bottom of the light rim. As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off at the breaker? I do... so do it... Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out? The light sits in a metal recessed niche. It is filled with water to keep the light cooler. The suction hose should work fine. I did not bother. I just got some old plaster splatter out by hand after the light was out. Just sit the light and wire on the deck so you can clean. Any other suggestions? Inspect the wire and coil the wire a bit so it fits neatly back into the niche. When you remove the single screw, then lift upwards to remove the light from the small top tab(s). -- |
#3
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Cleaning behind pool light
In article ,
Oren wrote: On Inspect the wire and coil the wire a bit so it fits neatly back into the niche. When you remove the single screw, then lift upwards to remove the light from the small top tab(s). -- Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. -- America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the *******s."-- Claire Wolfe |
#4
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Cleaning behind pool light
Do you have a long pole, to drag the bottom to search for cadavers? I'm
missing my pet elephant, about the last couple days. Might be cheaper than $500 to drain the pool through backwash, and put in all new water? Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Kurt Ullman" wrote in message m... In article , Oren wrote: On Inspect the wire and coil the wire a bit so it fits neatly back into the niche. When you remove the single screw, then lift upwards to remove the light from the small top tab(s). -- Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. -- America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the *******s."-- Claire Wolfe |
#5
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:46:02 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote: Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. - Did they suggest to drain the pool water? About every 2.5-3 years I have to drain about 1/3 of the water and refill. $500 for shock is crazy I think. I'm not real bright on pool chemistry, but you can get a chlorine lock and it stops working. I'll leave chemistry to other posters... -- |
#6
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Aug 9, 4:02*pm, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:46:02 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote: Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. - Did they suggest to drain the pool water? *About every 2.5-3 years I have to drain about 1/3 of the water and refill. $500 for shock is crazy I think. I'm not real bright on pool chemistry, but you can get a chlorine lock and it stops working. I'll leave chemistry to other posters... -- The problem I see with the pool light theory is how much algae can there be behind the pool light? For it to continue to effect chlorine that much in the whole pool you would think there would have to be a lot of it. When dealing with these problems it's almost always better to hit the pool with a lot of chlorine at once rather than add it a bit at a time. $500 can be a huge amount of chlorine if you're using a cheap form. Even if you're using the more expensive forms it sounds like a lot though. What increase in chlorine have you targeted? Does the chlorine show up, but then disappear slowly over days or does it never show up to begin with or disappear in hours? You have stabilizer in the pool? Also if algae is the theory, it might be more effective and cheaper to use an algaecide. |
#7
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Cleaning behind pool light
In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote: Do you have a long pole, to drag the bottom to search for cadavers? I'm missing my pet elephant, about the last couple days. Might be cheaper than $500 to drain the pool through backwash, and put in all new water? Not even close. I had a $200+ water bill last month just for the small refilling I had to do for backwashing and the evaporation from 100+ degree weather. -- America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the *******s."-- Claire Wolfe |
#8
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Cleaning behind pool light
In article ,
Oren wrote: Did they suggest to drain the pool water? About every 2.5-3 years I have to drain about 1/3 of the water and refill. $500 for shock is crazy I think. I'm not real bright on pool chemistry, but you can get a chlorine lock and it stops working. We did that last year for other reasons. Actually we took it down a 3rd, refilled and did it again. I'll leave chemistry to other posters... -- -- America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the *******s."-- Claire Wolfe |
#9
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Thu, 9 Aug 2012 13:39:47 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: Also if algae is the theory, it might be more effective and cheaper to use an algaecide. Good point. There is one for Yellow algae and one for Black algae? Why someone would tell the OP to pull the light without knowing this is strange. (IMHO) I've never been told to pull the light out and clean algae. The proper water treatment gets behind and into the niche. That will treat it. -- |
#10
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Cleaning behind pool light
A couple decades ago, my parents had a pool. They drained it one time for
cleaning, and that was a very special couple days. We called the FD about filling it back up. Would have been a bad idea, there is often a lot of rust in the mains. They used the fill valve, and it took several days. Sorry to hear water is so expensive. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Kurt Ullman" wrote in message m... Might be cheaper than $500 to drain the pool through backwash, and put in all new water? Not even close. I had a $200+ water bill last month just for the small refilling I had to do for backwashing and the evaporation from 100+ degree weather. -- America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the *******s."-- Claire Wolfe |
#11
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Aug 9, 5:20*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:16:21 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote: I know an actual on-topic discussion, I'll try not to do it again any time soon (grin). * I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get out? * *Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain. * * As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off at the breaker? * * Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out? * * Any other suggestions? How was your stabilizer in the chemical test. If it is way too high, draining off some water is the only real answer. My understanding of excessive stabilizer is that it reduces the effectiveness of the chlorine, not that it stops the chlorine from showing up. Meaning that with too much stabilizer the proper level of chlorine will still show on the test, it's just that it won't be working like it should. One thing I recommend is a Taylor test kit that will test for all the necessary chemistry, including stabilizer. They last several seasons and for $50 or so it's well worth it |
#12
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Cleaning behind pool light
"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
m... Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store. Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread here describing the colour problem in detail, with all values measured by your pool test strips. You probably need to adjust pH and total alkalinity as well as chlorine levels. Another likely cause is a defective filter or dirt particles so fine they are not trapped in the filter. -- Don Phillipson Carlsbad Springs (Ottawa, Canada) |
#13
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Cleaning behind pool light
In article ,
"Don Phillipson" wrote: "Kurt Ullman" wrote in message m... Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store. Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread here describing the colour problem in detail, with all values measured by your pool test strips. You probably need to adjust pH and total alkalinity as well as chlorine levels. Another likely cause is a defective filter or dirt particles so fine they are not trapped in the filter. The color is white and cloudy. I haven't been able to see the main drain, but I have a fountain running about half way down the pool and I can see the hose to that all the way through. -- America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the *******s."-- Claire Wolfe |
#14
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Aug 9, 7:24*pm, "Don Phillipson" wrote:
"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message m... Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store. Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread here describing the colour problem in detail, *with all values measured by your pool test strips. Using pool test strips could be part of the problem. They are notoriously inaccurate and in my experience useless. |
#15
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Aug 9, 8:20*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 9 Aug 2012 14:42:26 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Aug 9, 5:20*pm, wrote: On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:16:21 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote: I know an actual on-topic discussion, I'll try not to do it again any time soon (grin). * I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get out? * *Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain. * * As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off at the breaker? * * Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out? * * Any other suggestions? How was your stabilizer in the chemical test. If it is way too high, draining off some water is the only real answer. My understanding of excessive stabilizer is that it reduces the effectiveness of the chlorine, not that it stops the chlorine from showing up. *Meaning that with too much stabilizer the proper level of chlorine will still show on the test, it's just that it won't be working like it should. One thing I recommend is a Taylor test kit that will test for all the necessary chemistry, including stabilizer. *They last several seasons and for $50 or so it's well worth it You have plenty of chlorine on the 2 bottle tester but the pool store can also test for "free" chlorine that is not locked up by the stabilizer. Kurt indicated he was not seeing any chlorine, free or total. You don't need the pool store to test for free either. That can be done with a Taylor test kit, which, IMO pool owners should have. I had it once and draining about 2 feet of water from the pool was the only fix. I backed off the tabs Again, I agree that you can have problems where free chlorine is not showing up. But it's my understanding that excess stabilizer does not actually effect the level of free or total chlorine or make either not show up. My understanding is that free chlorine is there, but CYA forms a weak bond to it and hence inhibits it from working. Too much CYA and you have chlorine it's just not as effective. Kind of like the higher the PH the less effective chlorine becomes. It's still there, measurable, just not as effective as a sanitizer. I use and make up any deficiency with liquid but usually it is not necessary. I always shock with liquid. (a 2.5 gallon jug once a week in the summer). I cut the chlorine by a third in the winter. Other than that I only use a little acid to keep the pH right. I am about 4-5 years without any chemical wars.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#16
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Aug 10, 9:23*am, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article , *"Don Phillipson" wrote: "Kurt Ullman" wrote in message om... Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store. Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread here describing the colour problem in detail, *with all values measured by your pool test strips. * You probably need to adjust pH and total alkalinity as well as chlorine levels. *Another likely cause is a defective filter or dirt particles so fine they are not trapped in the filter. The color is white and cloudy. I haven't been able to see the main drain, but I have a fountain running about half way down the pool and I can see the hose to that all the way through. -- America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the *******s."-- Claire Wolfe- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - What chlorine level are you targeting when you shock it and how much, if any shows up? If it shows up, does it last for a day or more or just a few hours? I'd be targeting at least 20ppm since you're having problems and suspect algae. |
#17
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Aug 10, 12:14*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 09:23:19 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote: In article , "Don Phillipson" wrote: "Kurt Ullman" wrote in message news:tfOdnX_UjajnjrnNnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@earthlink. com... Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store. Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread here describing the colour problem in detail, *with all values measured by your pool test strips. * You probably need to adjust pH and total alkalinity as well as chlorine levels. *Another likely cause is a defective filter or dirt particles so fine they are not trapped in the filter. The color is white and cloudy. I haven't been able to see the main drain, but I have a fountain running about half way down the pool and I can see the hose to that all the way through. I would dump in 5 gallons of liquid chlorine (20%, not the 10% they sell at the grocery store) That should clear it up. Bleach at the grocery store is typically 6%. Don't know what you have where you are, but all the pool stores here have 12%. I would target 20 ppm of chlorine. How much he needs and of what depends on the size of the pool. Before you do that, be sure your pH is right and check total alkalinity as mentioned above.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#18
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Cleaning behind pool light
On Aug 10, 1:43*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 09:31:41 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Aug 10, 12:14*pm, wrote: On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 09:23:19 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote: In article , "Don Phillipson" wrote: "Kurt Ullman" wrote in message news:tfOdnX_UjajnjrnNnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@earthlink. com... Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the latest guess.. er suggestion. You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store. Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread here describing the colour problem in detail, *with all values measured by your pool test strips. * You probably need to adjust pH and total alkalinity as well as chlorine levels. *Another likely cause is a defective filter or dirt particles so fine they are not trapped in the filter. The color is white and cloudy. I haven't been able to see the main drain, but I have a fountain running about half way down the pool and I can see the hose to that all the way through. I would dump in 5 gallons of liquid chlorine (20%, not the 10% they sell at the grocery store) That should clear it up. Bleach at the grocery store is typically 6%. *Don't know what you have where you are, but all the pool stores here have 12%. * *I would target 20 ppm of chlorine. *How much he needs and of what depends on the size of the pool. My pool store has 20% in their bulk tanks. *(commercial grade) The 5 gallons is based on a typical 15k gallon home pool. That was what it took to clean mine up from the "milky" problem a few years ago I am not sure what you use to test up to 20PPM. Any pool test kit I have seen will saturate at 4-5 PPM.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - He doesn't need to test up to 20ppm. I just meant put enough chlorine in so that if it was just pure water with 0 chlorine he'd end up with 20ppm. If you want to test to higher levels with the typical test kit you can take 1/4 pool water, 3/4 bottled or distilled water. Test it and multiply the result by 4. Or 1/8 and multiply by 8 etc. For me it's good enough to see it turn brown with one drop of test solution. Then you know it's way above the normal range. With 5 gallons of 20% chlorine he'd take a 15,000 gallon pool to 70ppm, assuming nothing eats up some of it. I probably wouldn't go quite that high, but putting more in up front is generally agreed to be better for problems like this than doing a little at a time. I've heard pros recommend 40ppm for algae problems. So, I think we're on the same page. One thing for sure, with a 5 gallons of 12 or 20% chlorine he'd get a lot of chlorine, shock the hell out of it and it wouldn't cost much at all. When I was first learning about pools, one of the first things I learned was how expensive it can get when you take a trip to the local pool store and do what they say. It was "You need 30 lbs of Balance Pack 200", You need 25 lbs of Super Shock Z, and so it goes. When you learn what the chemicals are, it gets cheap fast. Just put two bags of baking soda totaling 25lbs from Costco in last week. That cost a whopping $14. At the pool store, it would be 3 or 4X that. |
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