"Guv Bob" wrote in
:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V
225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated
unti with 225mA machine?


Just include a fuze of about 300-500ma, and enjoy the result.

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

On Jul 23, 12:06*pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. * Original is 12V 225mA. * I have several 12V 1000mA. *Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

No. It just means it can deliver more power than
that device needs.

"Guv Bob" wrote:
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

I'll repeat in this group. If it's unregulated, it will have higher output
voltage. Sometimes a problem.

Greg

Guv Bob wrote:
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

Hi,

Bo problem for sure.
It may last longer.

Thanks, fellers! Saved me a trip and some pocket change!

Bob


"Guv Bob" wrote in message ...
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

On 7/23/2012 12:06 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?


Possible, a lot of cheaply designed consumer devices depend on using the
components used in the design. Their design might have depended on the
voltage drop of a just marginal transformer.

The numbers you mention, would those be input, or output? Since you call it
"AC adapter", would the input be 110 VAC?

If those are output numbers, having more amps available will not hurt your
device.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Guv Bob" wrote in message
...
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I
have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA
machine?

"Guv Bob" wrote in message
...
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I
have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA
machine?

Is the original AC or DC out put? Same for the replacements. You did not
mention the make/model of the device powered. While it's unlikely to make a
difference that too may have an impact on the answer.

Last if DC the polity to the center pin can be + or - get it wrong and
you've burned up the device.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 09:06:26 -0700, "Guv Bob"
wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?
Absolutely no problem as long as it has the right plug. The 2000ma
units are almost all REGULATED switchers, so do not have overvoltage
problems like were sometimes experienced with using oversized
transformer type adapters.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:02:30 -0500, "NotMe" wrote:


"Guv Bob" wrote in message
...
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I
have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA
machine?

Is the original AC or DC out put? Same for the replacements. You did not
mention the make/model of the device powered. While it's unlikely to make a
difference that too may have an impact on the answer.

Last if DC the polity to the center pin can be + or - get it wrong and
you've burned up the device.

Or it just won't run - depending on the circuitry.

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-706107-.htm
DA wrote:
Guv Bob wrote:


I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
=
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with =
225mA machine?

It's more important to check what kind of input voltage the machine
expects, AC, DC rectified only or DC regulated. The new adapter should
provide the same type and DC regulated supply can be plugged into DC
rectified but not the other way around.

Are the new adapters 120VAC-12VAC or 120VAC-12VDC? Rectified or regulated
DC? If it's anything other than regulated 120VAC-12VDC, then its output
voltage is likely to be higher than 12V when underloaded. It's anyone's
guess what it will be but I think it will be anywhere between 15V and 18V.

If it's 120VAC-12VDC regulated, it's going to run less efficient at only
1/4rd of max but that's a minuscule difference.

Anyhow, apart from AC-AC vs. AC-DC mismatch, none of this will probably be
a big deal, especially is the device isn't looking for regulated 12VDC
supply.

-------------------------------------
/\_/\
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) OWL
VV-VV

Inline fuse is a good idea. What's a fuze, though?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Sjouke Burry" s@b wrote in message
2.10...
"Guv Bob" wrote in
:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V
225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated
unti with 225mA machine?


Just include a fuze of about 300-500ma, and enjoy the result.

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Perce

On 7/23/2012 5:27 AM, Sjouke Burry wrote:
"Guv wrote in
:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V
225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated
unti with 225mA machine?


Just include a fuze of about 300-500ma, and enjoy the result.

Yep, like a fire???

I can't believe what I'm reading in this thread.

The question was about as clear as, "I've got this green
thing, can I eat it?"
And the answer is, "SURE".

You guys have NO IDEA what the "machine" is and you're
giving advice based on YOUR experience with something
probably/maybe entirely different.

The risk of catastrophe is low...except when it isn't.

Don't answer when you don't know the question!

Sorry about the rant. Bad advice on the web is my pet peeve.

"NotMe" wrote in :


"Guv Bob" wrote in message
...
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V
225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated
unti with 225mA machine?

Is the original AC or DC out put? Same for the replacements. You did
not mention the make/model of the device powered. While it's unlikely
to make a difference that too may have an impact on the answer.


MIND THE ITEM BELOW!

Last if DC the polity to the center pin can be + or - get it wrong
and you've burned up the device.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 15:32:22 -0700, mike wrote:

On 7/23/2012 5:27 AM, Sjouke Burry wrote:
"Guv wrote in
:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V
225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated
unti with 225mA machine?


Just include a fuze of about 300-500ma, and enjoy the result.

Yep, like a fire???

I can't believe what I'm reading in this thread.

The question was about as clear as, "I've got this green
thing, can I eat it?"
And the answer is, "SURE".

No, it's really not unclear at all.

You guys have NO IDEA what the "machine" is and you're
giving advice based on YOUR experience with something
probably/maybe entirely different.

Do you know *anything* about electricity?

The risk of catastrophe is low...except when it isn't.

Don't answer when you don't know the question!

Sorry about the rant. Bad advice on the web is my pet peeve.

Oh, good grief!

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:42:29 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

Just use a "modern" switching wall wart. You can tell by the "universal"
voltage (120/204 50/60Hz).

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Yep, but CPN is rather rare these days. I haven't seen one in years.

DA wrote:
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-706107-.htm
DA wrote:
Guv Bob wrote:


I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
=
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with =
225mA machine?

It's more important to check what kind of input voltage the machine
expects, AC, DC rectified only or DC regulated. The new adapter should
provide the same type and DC regulated supply can be plugged into DC
rectified but not the other way around.


You might have forgot to mention, there is rectified dc output without
filtering, as this depends on the device to have it's own filter
capacitors. I have seen this.

Greg

Are the new adapters 120VAC-12VAC or 120VAC-12VDC? Rectified or regulated
DC? If it's anything other than regulated 120VAC-12VDC, then its output
voltage is likely to be higher than 12V when underloaded. It's anyone's
guess what it will be but I think it will be anywhere between 15V and 18V.

If it's 120VAC-12VDC regulated, it's going to run less efficient at only
1/4rd of max but that's a minuscule difference.

Anyhow, apart from AC-AC vs. AC-DC mismatch, none of this will probably be
a big deal, especially is the device isn't looking for regulated 12VDC
supply.

-------------------------------------
/\_/\
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) OWL
VV-VV

" wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:42:29 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

Just use a "modern" switching wall wart. You can tell by the "universal"
voltage (120/204 50/60Hz).

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Yep, but CPN is rather rare these days. I haven't seen one in years.

How do you know if it's a radio device that doesn't like switching supplies
?

Where's Guv.

Greg

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center contact as -ve.

Perce

Right, a really good transformer can have 10% regulation at rated full
current. A poor transformer can have over 30% drop in voltage from no load
to rated full.

Greg

wrote:
On Jul 23, 12:06 pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V
225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated
unti with 225mA machine?

No. It just means it can deliver more power than
that device needs.

The device will draw a max of 225mA, so it does not matter if the new
charger can deliver 1000mA, in fact the second adaptor will last longer due
to the lower current draw.


--
PV

"If Inflammable means more flammable, then what does incompetent mean?'

On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 00:25:13 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

DA wrote:
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-706107-.htm
DA wrote:
Guv Bob wrote:


I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
=
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with =
225mA machine?

It's more important to check what kind of input voltage the machine
expects, AC, DC rectified only or DC regulated. The new adapter should
provide the same type and DC regulated supply can be plugged into DC
rectified but not the other way around.


You might have forgot to mention, there is rectified dc output without
filtering, as this depends on the device to have it's own filter
capacitors. I have seen this.

A universal voltage wall wart will take care of that, too.

On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 00:29:32 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:42:29 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

Just use a "modern" switching wall wart. You can tell by the "universal"
voltage (120/204 50/60Hz).

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Yep, but CPN is rather rare these days. I haven't seen one in years.

How do you know if it's a radio device that doesn't like switching supplies
?

Get real.

Where's Guv.

On 07/23/2012 04:03 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Inline fuse is a good idea. What's a fuze, though?

IIRC it's a flammable string they used to use to set off dynamite.

[snip]

" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 00:29:32 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:42:29 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

Just use a "modern" switching wall wart. You can tell by the "universal"
voltage (120/204 50/60Hz).

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Yep, but CPN is rather rare these days. I haven't seen one in years.

How do you know if it's a radio device that doesn't like switching supplies
?

Get real.

Where's Guv.

I hooked up a switcher to a cb radio, very horrible noise which also made
the circuitry act funny. With the application of 4 more ferrite devices, I
got it usable.

Greg

On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 01:42:53 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 00:29:32 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:42:29 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

Just use a "modern" switching wall wart. You can tell by the "universal"
voltage (120/204 50/60Hz).

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Yep, but CPN is rather rare these days. I haven't seen one in years.

How do you know if it's a radio device that doesn't like switching supplies
?

Get real.

Where's Guv.

I hooked up a switcher to a cb radio, very horrible noise which also made
the circuitry act funny. With the application of 4 more ferrite devices, I
got it usable.

Fix your radio.

" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 01:42:53 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 00:29:32 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:42:29 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

Just use a "modern" switching wall wart. You can tell by the "universal"
voltage (120/204 50/60Hz).

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Yep, but CPN is rather rare these days. I haven't seen one in years.

How do you know if it's a radio device that doesn't like switching supplies
?

Get real.

Where's Guv.

I hooked up a switcher to a cb radio, very horrible noise which also made
the circuitry act funny. With the application of 4 more ferrite devices, I
got it usable.

Fix your radio.

Nothing wrong with radio. The switcher was not designed for radios.

Greg

gregz wrote:
" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 01:42:53 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 00:29:32 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:42:29 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti
with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

Just use a "modern" switching wall wart. You can tell by the "universal"
voltage (120/204 50/60Hz).

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Yep, but CPN is rather rare these days. I haven't seen one in years.

How do you know if it's a radio device that doesn't like switching supplies
?

Get real.

Where's Guv.

I hooked up a switcher to a cb radio, very horrible noise which also made
the circuitry act funny. With the application of 4 more ferrite devices, I
got it usable.

Fix your radio.

Nothing wrong with radio. The switcher was not designed for radios.

Greg

Forgot to add. The noise is common mode, not differential. Common mode
noise goes right through the radio out to the antenna transmission line to
antenna. Also into any capacitive grounding of radio system. This all
induces noise into the cb band. Really get real.

Greg

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 18:40:38 -0600, "PV" edrnouser@ spam telus.net
wrote in Re I need to replace
an AC adapter:

wrote:
On Jul 23, 12:06 pm, "Guv Bob"
wrote:
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V
225mA. I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated
unti with 225mA machine?

No. It just means it can deliver more power than
that device needs.

The device will draw a max of 225mA, so it does not matter if the new
charger can deliver 1000mA, in fact the second adaptor will last longer due
to the lower current draw.

+1

On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 03:29:51 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 01:42:53 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 00:29:32 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:42:29 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

Just use a "modern" switching wall wart. You can tell by the "universal"
voltage (120/204 50/60Hz).

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Yep, but CPN is rather rare these days. I haven't seen one in years.

How do you know if it's a radio device that doesn't like switching supplies
?

Get real.

Where's Guv.

I hooked up a switcher to a cb radio, very horrible noise which also made
the circuitry act funny. With the application of 4 more ferrite devices, I
got it usable.

Fix your radio.

Nothing wrong with radio. The switcher was not designed for radios.

Greg
Actually, MANY are. I use a switcher on the aircraft radio with no
issues.

On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 03:29:51 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 01:42:53 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 00:29:32 +0000 (UTC), gregz wrote:

" wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:42:29 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 07/23/12 12:06 pm, Guv Bob wrote:

I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA machine?

1. It depends how good the regulation of the new one is: if the current
draw is significantly less than the 1000mA rated capacity, the voltage
may be significantly higher than 12v.

Just use a "modern" switching wall wart. You can tell by the "universal"
voltage (120/204 50/60Hz).

2. Be sure to check that the polarity is the same as the original: most
have the center contact as +ve, but the occasional one has the center
contact as -ve.

Yep, but CPN is rather rare these days. I haven't seen one in years.

How do you know if it's a radio device that doesn't like switching supplies
?

Get real.

Where's Guv.

I hooked up a switcher to a cb radio, very horrible noise which also made
the circuitry act funny. With the application of 4 more ferrite devices, I
got it usable.

Fix your radio.

Nothing wrong with radio. The switcher was not designed for radios.

If the radio won't work with switcher noise it won't work in any noisy
environment, either. If it isn't broken, it's crap.

wrote in message
...
I hooked up a switcher to a cb radio, very horrible noise which also
made
the circuitry act funny. With the application of 4 more ferrite
devices, I
got it usable.

Fix your radio.

Nothing wrong with radio. The switcher was not designed for radios.

If the radio won't work with switcher noise it won't work in any noisy
environment, either. If it isn't broken, it's crap.


Some switching supplies generate a lot of noise that is in the radio
frequency area. They will power devices fine, but at the same time if you
want to receive something that some of the RF noise appears on, there will
be a problem. Some of the battery chargers around the house RF generate
noise even when not charging a battery.
Some small fans such as in a computer that work on DC have an internal
switching supply of sorts that can also generate RF noise over a wide
frequency rnge.

On 7/24/2012 6:06 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

snipped bad advice.

If the radio won't work with switcher noise it won't work in any noisy
environment, either. If it isn't broken, it's crap.

That's exactly the point. Most devices ARE CRAP.
They're designed to work with the supplied accessories
at the lowest possible price.

The wall wart is often an integral part of the system design
for cheapo devices...especially where battery charging is involved.

I've hosted many a design review where some very smart engineer
was oblivious to the wider ramifications his "clever" design.

We know exactly ZERO about the "machine" being powered.
ANY advice on changing the wall wart is premature.

Making random WILD guesses about what is or isn't
compatible is irresponsible.

Most of the time, it's ok. But you're not the one
who suffers the consequences when it's not.

Safer to ask the OP what he's got before pontificating, don't you think?

On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 11:30:53 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
I hooked up a switcher to a cb radio, very horrible noise which also
made
the circuitry act funny. With the application of 4 more ferrite
devices, I
got it usable.

Fix your radio.

Nothing wrong with radio. The switcher was not designed for radios.

If the radio won't work with switcher noise it won't work in any noisy
environment, either. If it isn't broken, it's crap.


Some switching supplies generate a lot of noise that is in the radio
frequency area. They will power devices fine, but at the same time if you
want to receive something that some of the RF noise appears on, there will
be a problem. Some of the battery chargers around the house RF generate
noise even when not charging a battery.

If that's affecting your radio, throw it away and buy a better one.

Some small fans such as in a computer that work on DC have an internal
switching supply of sorts that can also generate RF noise over a wide
frequency rnge.

Ditto.

On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 09:54:42 -0700, mike wrote:

On 7/24/2012 6:06 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

snipped bad advice.

If the radio won't work with switcher noise it won't work in any noisy
environment, either. If it isn't broken, it's crap.

That's exactly the point. Most devices ARE CRAP.
They're designed to work with the supplied accessories
at the lowest possible price.

If a device will be affected by a switching power supply it will be similarly
affected by other noise in the vicinity. If it's that crappy, it's useless.
Get rid of it.

The wall wart is often an integral part of the system design
for cheapo devices...especially where battery charging is involved.

Utter nonsense. Wall warts are generic, *seldom* designed for a specific
product.

I've hosted many a design review where some very smart engineer
was oblivious to the wider ramifications his "clever" design.

Haven't we all.

We know exactly ZERO about the "machine" being powered.
ANY advice on changing the wall wart is premature.

Utter nonsense.

Making random WILD guesses about what is or isn't
compatible is irresponsible.

Then we might just as well shut down this forum. There is never enough
information to be 100% sure that the solution is the best.

Most of the time, it's ok. But you're not the one
who suffers the consequences when it's not.

Horse****.

Safer to ask the OP what he's got before pontificating, don't you think?

You're an ass.

"Ralph Mowery" wrote:
wrote in message
...
I hooked up a switcher to a cb radio, very horrible noise which also
made
the circuitry act funny. With the application of 4 more ferrite
devices, I
got it usable.

Fix your radio.

Nothing wrong with radio. The switcher was not designed for radios.

If the radio won't work with switcher noise it won't work in any noisy
environment, either. If it isn't broken, it's crap.


Some switching supplies generate a lot of noise that is in the radio
frequency area. They will power devices fine, but at the same time if you
want to receive something that some of the RF noise appears on, there will
be a problem. Some of the battery chargers around the house RF generate
noise even when not charging a battery.
Some small fans such as in a computer that work on DC have an internal
switching supply of sorts that can also generate RF noise over a wide
frequency rnge.

I built a lot of stuff for medical research, which is very sensitive to LF
noise, especially 60 Hz. I found most of the switcher supplies from jameco
were great at not producing noise in that area.

On cb I noticed what sounded like a charge and discharge, loud cracking.
Sounded like a power line leak. I went all around house finding strange
places where the noise showed up. Outside the noise was coming from power
lines. Walked up the street 300 feet, the noise was the strongest. Back at
the house I was convinced there was still something in the house. Started
flipping breakers. Found it. but didn't seem logical. My kitchen computer
area had a power strip. Look down at sears lithium power drill charger I
plugged in day before. Pulled plug, got it. The noise was not strong at the
device. I'm still wondering if neighbor has similar device up the street
where it was the strongest.

Greg

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:02:30 -0500, "NotMe" wrote:


"Guv Bob" wrote in message
...
I need to replace an AC adapter that went out. Original is 12V 225mA.
I
have several 12V 1000mA. Any problem using 1000mA rated unti with 225mA
machine?

Is the original AC or DC out put? Same for the replacements. You did not
mention the make/model of the device powered. While it's unlikely to make
a
difference that too may have an impact on the answer.

Last if DC the polarity to the center pin can be + or - get it wrong and
you've burned up the device.

Or it just won't run - depending on the circuitry.

Do you *really* want to depend on that eventuality?