I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

On 6/26/2012 10:58 PM, Doug wrote:
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

well first of all, wd40 is not a lubricant. It is merely a water
dispersant. (basically kerosene) Go down to your local auto parts store
and get some waterproof wheel bearing grease (for boat trailers) and
apply with a small brush as needed.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Young's Law of usenet: After Nazis have been
invoked and called forth from the spirit world,
someone is sure to mention WD-40. The debate
"is it a lubricant or water displacer" is not complete
until someone explains what the letters abbrev. for.
Points are earned by quoting usenet posters of old,
Aristotle, or your own personal experiences with
WD-40. Web pages abound, and are on topic for
the debate. Regardless of how worthy an argument
is, no one is allowed to change sides. The debate
must continue to eternity.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

well first of all, wd40 is not a lubricant. It is merely a water
dispersant. (basically kerosene) Go down to your local auto parts store
and get some waterproof wheel bearing grease (for boat trailers) and
apply with a small brush as needed.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

I'm in NYS, but my choice would have been white lithium grease. Comes in
spray cans, for easy apply.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

I'm in NYS, but my choice would have been white lithium grease. Comes
in spray cans, for easy apply.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

I don't know what kind of latch this is, but making sure it is properly
aligned would surely help. Then wouldn't graphite powder be a good
thing?


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 6/27/12 5:41 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Young's Law of usenet: After Nazis have been
invoked and called forth from the spirit world,
someone is sure to mention WD-40. The debate
"is it a lubricant or water displacer" is not complete
until someone explains what the letters abbrev. for.
Points are earned by quoting usenet posters of old,
Aristotle, or your own personal experiences with
WD-40. Web pages abound, and are on topic for
the debate. Regardless of how worthy an argument
is, no one is allowed to change sides. The debate
must continue to eternity.

Which leads to a question. Will Jesus settle the debate when
He returns?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Steve wrote in message
...

well first of all, wd40 is not a lubricant. It is merely a water
dispersant. (basically kerosene) Go down to your local auto parts store
and get some waterproof wheel bearing grease (for boat trailers) and
apply with a small brush as needed.

Doug wrote:
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

Three questions:
1. Why did you have to lubricate the latch in the first place,
2. Why do you think the latch needs ongoing lubrication, and
3. Why do you believe an ordinary latch, with 1/4" or more of tolerances,
will be affected by dirt?

Here's how I figure it to play out:

Jesus will give the answer, when He returns. He will give the answer in the
upper room of the Salt Lake city, Utah, temple. In front of the assembled
Quorem of the Twelve. They will vote to ratify the matter, and it will be
ratified, unanimously.

The Prophet will announce the answer, in the next semianual General
Conference. He will propose to sustain the matter by the general vote of the
congregations, and it will be sustained, nearly unanimously. When he calls
for "any opposed", a few malcontents and small children will raise their
hands.

AP, UPI, and various wire services will report on the declaration of WD-40,
by the LDS church. Debates will continue to eternity, on questions: Was that
the real Jesus? Was that a Mormon Jesus, instead of Biblical Jesus? Did
Jesus really say that? (Since it happened in a confined space, with no
reporters.) Are Mormons a cult? Does Jesus speak on any matters, since the
end of Revelations 22:19 says not?

News media, preists of other faiths, Rabbis, and Muslim clerics, both Sunni
and Shiite, will reach various conclusions, and each will pronounce the Real
Answer. Few will agree what "is" the real answer, though. Internet forums,
chat rooms, and a few new Usenet lists will spring up, each proclaiming the
Real Answer.

WD-40 will be bought out by Coca Cola, and will market a new red and white
spray can with a logo "It's the Real Spraything". Coca Cola will be bought
out by the Chinese government, and the spray can will now read "It's the
Real Red Spraycan of the Party". An ad campaign will show how WD is used in
various ways to save peoples lives. By cheerful people having a party. The
bicycle that rolls better, after WD sprayed on the axles. So the little
blonde girl can get out of the way of the oncoming car. The ad will change
to "better red than dead". The American Legion will protest the new logo,
and protest the Chinese buy out.

Meantime, the old spray cans of WD-40 will sell for high prices on Ebay, and
in bootleg "squeak easy" establishments that spring up. The factory in
Mainland China will make "Retro, Old WD-40" in the familiar cans, but sales
will be slow, in the US.

Devout Mormons will consider the matter to have been resolved, years ago.
And will not know what the fuss is about.

Glad you asked?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Dean Hoffman" " wrote in message
...
On 6/27/12 5:41 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Young's Law of usenet: After Nazis have been
invoked and called forth from the spirit world,
someone is sure to mention WD-40. The debate
"is it a lubricant or water displacer" is not complete
until someone explains what the letters abbrev. for.
Points are earned by quoting usenet posters of old,
Aristotle, or your own personal experiences with
WD-40. Web pages abound, and are on topic for
the debate. Regardless of how worthy an argument
is, no one is allowed to change sides. The debate
must continue to eternity.

Which leads to a question. Will Jesus settle the debate when
He returns?

WD40 turns to goo when people attempt to use it as a lubricant

Vaseline turns to rock as it ages and is NOT A LUBRICANT!!!

I had a customer one time lube the machines I serviced with vasoline,
and a bunch of VCRs.

I had to soak the parts he lubed on my machines with gasoline, and the
customer ultimately tossed the 20 or so VCRs that had been lubed with
vasoline.....

the offender was replaced,

he just didnt get it and probably made the same mistake at his next
employeer........

In addition to VCR, what kind of machines do you say you service?

There are a lot of lubricants that fail. I'll start a thread on that, in a
moment.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
WD40 turns to goo when people attempt to use it as a lubricant

Vaseline turns to rock as it ages and is NOT A LUBRICANT!!!

I had a customer one time lube the machines I serviced with vasoline,
and a bunch of VCRs.

I had to soak the parts he lubed on my machines with gasoline, and the
customer ultimately tossed the 20 or so VCRs that had been lubed with
vasoline.....

the offender was replaced,

he just didnt get it and probably made the same mistake at his next
employeer........

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 06:27:37 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Doug wrote:
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

Three questions:
1. Why did you have to lubricate the latch in the first place,
2. Why do you think the latch needs ongoing lubrication, and
3. Why do you believe an ordinary latch, with 1/4" or more of tolerances,
will be affected by dirt?


I could upload a picture but regardless, I just thought a little
lubricant was good because it's a slight rub metal on metal. I don't
know how familiar people here are with wood gates in Texas, but they
are notorious for settling where the hinges are and the posts move a
bit as they age so the latches no matter how perfect at one time will
likely not be perfect a year later even with minimum useage. I know
it's not really rocket science and I did make adjustments yesterday to
make it work better. I was just hoping to make it still better with
some lubricant. I may be just too picky trying to perfect something
that's not going to be that way a year later no matter what I do now
so perhaps I did good enough g. I wanted to make it effortless to
open but it takes a little effort to open but I think a 60 yr old
woman could do it if she knows how to work the latch. Now that makes
me think how many 60 yr old women does it take to open the latch.
Probably 5 or 6... one to try to open it and the rest to haggle over
it.

On 27 Jun 2012 11:07:56 GMT, Han wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

I'm in NYS, but my choice would have been white lithium grease. Comes
in spray cans, for easy apply.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

I don't know what kind of latch this is, but making sure it is properly
aligned would surely help. Then wouldn't graphite powder be a good
thing?


I did align it but there is still a little metal on metal rub when you
try to open it. It's not that bad but I was hoping to make it perfect
so that's why I lubricated it. It's not bad and I should probably let
it go because no matter what I do, the posts and hinges will move a
bit as the summer goes by and my alignment will be a bit more off
then. These type wood gates are notorious for this stuff in Texas
weather. Thanks.

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 06:42:20 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I'm in NYS, but my choice would have been white lithium grease. Comes in
spray cans, for easy apply.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


Yeah, that reminds me when I was younger (also in NY then), my dad
used to have a can of that stuff around for various uses. Thanks for
reminding me !!!

On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 22:58:07 -0500, Doug wrote:
Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease for
this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

What you need are hinge umbrellas, designed to keep them shaded and the
rain off.

On 27 Jun 2012 11:07:56 GMT, Han wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

I'm in NYS, but my choice would have been white lithium grease. Comes
in spray cans, for easy apply.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

I don't know what kind of latch this is, but making sure it is properly
aligned would surely help. Then wouldn't graphite powder be a good
thing?

I'd make sure it's aligned properly and then DO NOTHING. Anything applied to
the surface will wash off. Lubrication isn't necessary. This stuff doesn't
have close tolerances that require it.

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 14:01:44 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 22:58:07 -0500, Doug wrote:
Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease for
this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

What you need are hinge umbrellas, designed to keep them shaded and the
rain off.



LOL! What he needs are stainless hinges.

" wrote in
news
On 27 Jun 2012 11:07:56 GMT, Han wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
m:

I'm in NYS, but my choice would have been white lithium grease.
Comes in spray cans, for easy apply.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided
to lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but
after more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it
absorbs dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a
better grease for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat
and rain (Texas)?

I don't know what kind of latch this is, but making sure it is
properly aligned would surely help. Then wouldn't graphite powder be
a good thing?

I'd make sure it's aligned properly and then DO NOTHING. Anything
applied to the surface will wash off. Lubrication isn't necessary.
This stuff doesn't have close tolerances that require it.

I wouldn't think so either but a little graphite may just act to polish
the contact area enough to make it go smoothly for quite a while. Then
rubbing the lead of a pencil on the rub marks between the contact points
is an easy maintenance thing.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Y'welcome. White lith is fun stuff. Not a cure all, but it has uses.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Doug" wrote in message
...

Yeah, that reminds me when I was younger (also in NY then), my dad
used to have a can of that stuff around for various uses. Thanks for
reminding me !!!

On Wednesday, June 27, 2012 4:07:56 AM UTC-7, Han wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

I'm in NYS, but my choice would have been white lithium grease. Comes
in spray cans, for easy apply.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

I don't know what kind of latch this is, but making sure it is properly
aligned would surely help. Then wouldn't graphite powder be a good
thing?


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

I do not recommend graphite because I have seen graphite wear out joints and close clearances. Now before people start jumping on what I just wrote let me clarify. It is possible that the graphite that I observed may have been the wrong kind of graphite because there is a type of graphite that is considered an abrasive. But the people that I spoke to that have used it said that they bought it from the hardware store as a lubricant. My question would be: How would you know what is inside the container that you buy? I suspect that some people are being sold the wrong kind of graphite in falsely labeled containers.

wrote in
:

On Wednesday, June 27, 2012 4:07:56 AM UTC-7, Han wrote:
snip

I don't know what kind of latch this is, but making sure it is
properly aligned would surely help. Then wouldn't graphite powder be
a good thing?

I do not recommend graphite because I have seen graphite wear out
joints and close clearances. Now before people start jumping on what I
just wrote let me clarify. It is possible that the graphite that I
observed may have been the wrong kind of graphite because there is a
type of graphite that is considered an abrasive. But the people that I
spoke to that have used it said that they bought it from the hardware
store as a lubricant. My question would be: How would you know what is
inside the container that you buy? I suspect that some people are
being sold the wrong kind of graphite in falsely labeled containers.

Graphite is one of the softest materials around, so how it could be an
abrasive, I don't know. Have any references?


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

http://diy.stackexchange.com/questio...or-metal-parts
This was the closest I could find, on the web. Graphite comes in powder,
and solid chunks. I've never heard of "abrasive" graphite.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

I do not recommend graphite because I have seen graphite wear out joints and
close clearances. Now before people start jumping on what I just wrote let
me clarify. It is possible that the graphite that I observed may have been
the wrong kind of graphite because there is a type of graphite that is
considered an abrasive. But the people that I spoke to that have used it
said that they bought it from the hardware store as a lubricant. My question
would be: How would you know what is inside the container that you buy? I
suspect that some people are being sold the wrong kind of graphite in
falsely labeled containers.

On Jun 27, 8:58*am, "Doug" wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 06:27:37 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Doug wrote:
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. *I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. * Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

Three questions:
1. Why did you have to lubricate the latch in the first place,
2. Why do you think the latch needs ongoing lubrication, and
3. Why do you believe an ordinary latch, with 1/4" or more of tolerances,
will be affected by dirt?

I could upload a picture but regardless, I just thought a little
lubricant was good because it's a slight rub metal on metal.

I don't
know how familiar people here are with wood gates in Texas, but they
are notorious for settling where the hinges are and the posts move a
bit as they age so the latches no matter how perfect at one time will
likely not be perfect a year later even with minimum useage.

You say that as if posts don't settle, warp or move anywhere else but
Texas.

I don't know how familiar you are with the rest of the world, but wood
basically reacts to its local environment in pretty much the same
manner everywhere.

I know
it's not really rocket science and I did make adjustments yesterday to
make it work better. * I was just hoping to make it still better with
some lubricant. I may be just too picky trying to perfect something
that's not going to be that way a year later no matter what I do now
so perhaps I did good enough g. * I wanted to make it effortless to
open but it takes a little effort to open but I think a 60 yr old
woman could do it if she knows how to work the latch.

Use one of these:

http://www.hooverfence.com/woodfence/rrlooplatch.htm

Pretty much effortless and not very hard to figure out.

P.S. You may have insulted a few 60 yr old woman by implying that they
can't open something that requires more than a "little effort".

Now that makes
me think how many 60 yr old women does it take to open the latch.
Probably 5 or 6... one to try to open it and the rest to haggle over
it.

The more important question is this:

How many 60 yr old woman will be opening the latch in question?
There's no real point in making it easy to use for a population that
will never use it.

Disclaimer: I speak in generalities just to make a point. I mean no
disrespect to any 60 yr old woman in regards to their gate opening
capabilities.

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 10:48:32 -0400, "
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 14:01:44 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 22:58:07 -0500, Doug wrote:
Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease for
this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

What you need are hinge umbrellas, designed to keep them shaded and the
rain off.



LOL! What he needs are stainless hinges.


Better yet, take the gate off and fence it in. Then no one can get
in or out unless thru the house and I won't have to worry about no
stinkin' latches grin !!

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

I've found that silicon lubricant (the cheap aftermarket auto parts store
brand works as well as the name brand for 99.9% of the applications I run
into.

BTW I live in Texas and have property in both N Texas and along the coast
(the stuff works well with plastic,aluminum and other metals). Best is that
the residue does not 'get on good clothes' - (my wife, daughters, DILs and
granddaughters are pleased)

Yes you have to renew the application but that's no hill for a stepper.
Gates at the beach house gets a shot at the beginning of the season and one
at the end. (ditto the door hinges and lock as do the slides on the windows)
Occasionally we need to give them a shot around New Years but not often.

At one time we had problems with ice in car door locks following rain and a
quick freeze. Don't know if there was any correlation but have not had a
frozen lock in years.

"Doug" wrote:
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

The lithium might work. LPS 3 might work, it dries to a wax.

Greg

On Jun 27, 8:16*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
In addition to VCR, what kind of machines do you say you service?

There are a lot of lubricants that fail. I'll start a thread on that, in a
moment.

Over the years I have serviced Ditto Machines that made those purple
copies, thermofax machines, that went along with the ditto machines,
they made thermal masters, copies, transparencies, and did some
laminating. The 3M thermal fax was the machine the idiot tried to lube
with vasoline. it turned tto ROCK in the unit, and was a horrible
mess to fix.... All it really needed was a bit of light oil.

I have also serviced borg warner system 80 teaching machines, they
used a record and a card guide to ask kids questions.. a spattering of
av equiptement like overhead projectors

these days I service all brands of roll laminators. its a niche market
that few care to bother with. GBC my main cometitor charges over $317 .
00 for the first hours labor within 25 miles of pittsburgh... I charge
a fraction of that, although gasoline at 4 bucks a gallon was a killer:
(

I still service some 3m thermofax machines for tatoo shops on a rare
occasion, parts are hard to find...

ONE VERY IMPORTANT THING ABOUT LUBRICANTS!!! Never mix different
types!!!

Mix plain grease and lithium grease creates non lubricating ROCK!!!!
its nasty!

DerbyDad03 wrote:

The more important question is this:

How many 60 yr old woman will be opening the latch in question?
There's no real point in making it easy to use for a population that
will never use it.


You evidently have never heard of the recent regulation requiring every
public-access swimming pool in the country (think Howard Johnson or Holiday
Inn) to have lift access for the disabled or the regulations that went into
effect March15th. These latest regs include:
* Businesses must allow miniature horses as guide animals
* Slope limits on miniature golf courses
* Ample "turning space" at a shooting range

On Wednesday, June 27, 2012 8:36:44 AM UTC-7, Han wrote:
wrote in
:

On Wednesday, June 27, 2012 4:07:56 AM UTC-7, Han wrote:
snip

I don't know what kind of latch this is, but making sure it is
properly aligned would surely help. Then wouldn't graphite powder be
a good thing?

I do not recommend graphite because I have seen graphite wear out
joints and close clearances. Now before people start jumping on what I
just wrote let me clarify. It is possible that the graphite that I
observed may have been the wrong kind of graphite because there is a
type of graphite that is considered an abrasive. But the people that I
spoke to that have used it said that they bought it from the hardware
store as a lubricant. My question would be: How would you know what is
inside the container that you buy? I suspect that some people are
being sold the wrong kind of graphite in falsely labeled containers.

Graphite is one of the softest materials around, so how it could be an
abrasive, I don't know. Have any references?


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Apparently if graphite isn’t pure it may be called amorphous carbon or soot and depending on what the contaminant is it can be also be called a carbide which can be used as an abrasive.

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 10:04:29 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Apparently if graphite isn’t pure it may be called amorphous carbon or soot and depending on what the contaminant is it can be also be called a carbide which can be used as an abrasive.

Call your local prison. Ask for the Lock Shop, or, the Armory.

They will have good advice. A good chance graphite is not used, but
ask in your locale.

On 27 Jun 2012 14:58:17 GMT, Han wrote:

" wrote in
news
On 27 Jun 2012 11:07:56 GMT, Han wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
om:

I'm in NYS, but my choice would have been white lithium grease.
Comes in spray cans, for easy apply.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided
to lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but
after more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it
absorbs dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a
better grease for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat
and rain (Texas)?

I don't know what kind of latch this is, but making sure it is
properly aligned would surely help. Then wouldn't graphite powder be
a good thing?

I'd make sure it's aligned properly and then DO NOTHING. Anything
applied to the surface will wash off. Lubrication isn't necessary.
This stuff doesn't have close tolerances that require it.

I wouldn't think so either but a little graphite may just act to polish
the contact area enough to make it go smoothly for quite a while. Then
rubbing the lead of a pencil on the rub marks between the contact points
is an easy maintenance thing.

....and it's gone after the first heavy dew. All it's going to do is make a
mess. Buy decent hardware and forget it.

On Wednesday, June 27, 2012 10:40:20 AM UTC-6, NotMe wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

I've found that silicon lubricant (the cheap aftermarket auto parts store
brand works as well as the name brand for 99.9% of the applications I run
into.

BTW I live in Texas and have property in both N Texas and along the coast
(the stuff works well with plastic,aluminum and other metals). Best is that
the residue does not 'get on good clothes' - (my wife, daughters, DILs and
granddaughters are pleased)

Yes you have to renew the application but that's no hill for a stepper.
Gates at the beach house gets a shot at the beginning of the season and one
at the end. (ditto the door hinges and lock as do the slides on the windows)
Occasionally we need to give them a shot around New Years but not often.

At one time we had problems with ice in car door locks following rain and a
quick freeze. Don't know if there was any correlation but have not had a
frozen lock in years.

Silicon spray lube will work fine but not great if you want to paint any wood
that it gets on. Personally, I wouldn't bother lubing gate latches...they don't
get used that much and they usually have enough clearance to not seize up.

On Jun 27, 3:55*pm, Roy wrote:
On Wednesday, June 27, 2012 10:40:20 AM UTC-6, NotMe wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message
.. .
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. *I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. * Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

I've found that silicon lubricant (the cheap aftermarket auto parts store
brand works as well as the name brand for 99.9% of the applications I run
into.

BTW I live in Texas and have property in both N Texas and along the coast
(the stuff works well with plastic,aluminum and other metals). *Best is that
the residue does not 'get on good clothes' - (my wife, daughters, DILs and
granddaughters are pleased)

Yes you have to renew the application but that's no hill for a stepper.
Gates at the beach house gets a shot at the beginning of the season and one
at the end. (ditto the door hinges and lock as do the slides on the windows)
Occasionally we need to give them a shot around New Years but not often..

At one time we had problems with ice in car door locks following rain and a
quick freeze. *Don't know if there was any correlation but have not had a
frozen lock in years.

Silicon spray lube will work fine but not great if you want to paint any wood
that it gets on. Personally, I wouldn't bother lubing gate latches...they don't
get used that much and they usually have enough clearance to not seize up

When you say "they don't get used that much", I assume that you are
speaking for your own gate latches, not gate latches in general.

I alone have two gate latches that get used multiple times a day.

Maybe about once a year the latches get a little stiff. A quick blast
of WD-40 loosens them right up.

Personally, I don't care about the science beyond WD-40 and whether it
is, by definition, a lubricant or not.

Here's what I do care about:

Maybe about once a year the latches get a little stiff. A quick blast
of WD-40 loosens them right up.

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 13:17:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:


When you say "they don't get used that much", I assume that you are
speaking for your own gate latches, not gate latches in general.

I alone have two gate latches that get used multiple times a day.

Maybe about once a year the latches get a little stiff. A quick blast
of WD-40 loosens them right up.

Personally, I don't care about the science beyond WD-40 and whether it
is, by definition, a lubricant or not.

Here's what I do care about:

Maybe about once a year the latches get a little stiff. A quick blast
of WD-40 loosens them right up.


I'm guessing you manipulate them as - or right after - you spray them
with WD-40.
I don't have gate latches, but am a bit interested in science.
So I'm thinking plain water would do the same thing - wash out the
grunge.
What I use to lube just about anything metal is clean engine oil.
Got one pump can and one dimple-bottom can.
Wipe away excess with a rag. It's pretty long lasting.
But whatever works for the individual is what I say.

--
Vic

On 6/26/2012 10:58 PM, Doug wrote:
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?


I've been using industrial chain lube to lubricate anything exposed to
the weather. I get it at auto parts stores. ^_^

http://store.veeindustries.com/liqui...lubricant.aspx

http://goo.gl/6kP4Z

TDD

Wow, that's quite a varied and extensive experience. Thanks for the comments
on mixing lubes. I've used many of the machines you mention.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"bob haller" wrote in message
...

Over the years I have serviced Ditto Machines that made those purple
copies, thermofax machines, that went along with the ditto machines,
they made thermal masters, copies, transparencies, and did some
laminating. The 3M thermal fax was the machine the idiot tried to lube
with vasoline. it turned tto ROCK in the unit, and was a horrible
mess to fix.... All it really needed was a bit of light oil.

I have also serviced borg warner system 80 teaching machines, they
used a record and a card guide to ask kids questions.. a spattering of
av equiptement like overhead projectors

these days I service all brands of roll laminators. its a niche market
that few care to bother with. GBC my main cometitor charges over $317 .
00 for the first hours labor within 25 miles of pittsburgh... I charge
a fraction of that, although gasoline at 4 bucks a gallon was a killer:
(

I still service some 3m thermofax machines for tatoo shops on a rare
occasion, parts are hard to find...

ONE VERY IMPORTANT THING ABOUT LUBRICANTS!!! Never mix different
types!!!

Mix plain grease and lithium grease creates non lubricating ROCK!!!!
its nasty!

On 6/27/2012 5:41 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Young's Law of usenet: After Nazis have been
invoked and called forth from the spirit world,
someone is sure to mention WD-40. The debate
"is it a lubricant or water displacer" is not complete
until someone explains what the letters abbrev. for.
Points are earned by quoting usenet posters of old,
Aristotle, or your own personal experiences with
WD-40. Web pages abound, and are on topic for
the debate. Regardless of how worthy an argument
is, no one is allowed to change sides. The debate
must continue to eternity.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org


+1


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 07:42:29 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Here's how I figure it to play out:




Glad you asked?

Chris, that was one of your best!

On 27 Jun 2012 11:07:56 GMT, Han wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

I'm in NYS, but my choice would have been white lithium grease. Comes
in spray cans, for easy apply.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Doug" wrote in message
...
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

I don't know what kind of latch this is, but making sure it is properly
aligned would surely help. Then wouldn't graphite powder be a good
thing?
Or a bit of moly grease. Or teflon grease. I'm not a big fan of white
lithium - but it would do the job. A good clear syntheric grease
would be my first choise.

On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 16:29:32 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/26/2012 10:58 PM, Doug wrote:
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?


I've been using industrial chain lube to lubricate anything exposed to
the weather. I get it at auto parts stores. ^_^

http://store.veeindustries.com/liqui...lubricant.aspx

http://goo.gl/6kP4Z

TDD


Sounds a bit like overkill but it also sounds like it will do the job
nicely. I just have to be careful to not overspray but that's easy
enough with a rag afterwards. Thanks.

On Jun 28, 7:34*am, "Doug" wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jun 2012 16:29:32 -0500, The Daring Dufas





wrote:
On 6/26/2012 10:58 PM, Doug wrote:
I had to oil up a latch on a wooden fence gate today and I decided to
lubricate the latch mechanism with some wd-40. *I was originally
thinking of using some petroleum jelly for better longevity but after
more thought, I thought this might make matters worst if it absorbs
dirt. * Am I correct in not using grease or is there a better grease
for this outdoor job considering the blistering heat and rain (Texas)?

I've been using industrial chain lube to lubricate anything exposed to
the weather. I get it at auto parts stores. ^_^

http://store.veeindustries.com/liqui...-chain-lubrica...

http://goo.gl/6kP4Z

TDD

Sounds a bit like overkill but it also sounds like it will do the job
nicely. *I just have to be careful to not overspray but that's easy
enough with a rag afterwards. * Thanks.- Prevention is often better than reparation.

Consider masking off the area around the latch so that the overspray
never makes contact with the wood.

Once the overspray gets on the wood, some of it will soak in and a rag
won't get it all off. This might impact the future use of a finish
that might not take because of the grease.

This might not be a big deal in this case, but I just thought I'd
bring up masking as a "best practice" to avoid the consequences of
overspray.