I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely. The error LED on the blower relay circuit
board is blinking. I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit
switch currently open, not in lockout). It blinks slowly on and off
forever without a change in interval. Does this correspond to error
code 1?

What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board

What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.

On Apr 25, 1:47*pm, jay wrote:
I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely. The error LED on the blower relay circuit
board is blinking. I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit
switch currently open, not in lockout). It blinks slowly on and off
forever without a change in interval. Does this correspond to error
code 1?

I don't know, but you said you had the blower door
off. If you're trying to see what the blower does, do
you have the door safety switch taped over while trying to
see it run?




What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board

What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.

What kind of motor is it? Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 10:47:38 -0700 (PDT), jay
wrote:

I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely. The error LED on the blower relay circuit
board is blinking. I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit
switch currently open, not in lockout). It blinks slowly on and off
forever without a change in interval. Does this correspond to error
code 1?

What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board

What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.
ASSuming it is an induction motor, most likely a bad starting cap.

On Apr 25, 8:07*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 10:47:38 -0700 (PDT), jay
wrote:



I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely. The error LED on the blower relay circuit
board is blinking. I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit
switch currently open, not in lockout). It blinks slowly on and off
forever without a change in interval. Does this correspond to error
code 1?

What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board

What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.

* ASSuming it is an induction motor, most likely a bad starting cap.

I hope for the OPs sake it is a standard induction motor.

If it is a new variable speed electronically commuted motor, then he
is about to give back some of the "savings" .

Mark

On Apr 25, 12:47*pm, jay wrote:
I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely. The error LED on the blower relay circuit
board is blinking. I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit
switch currently open, not in lockout). It blinks slowly on and off
forever without a change in interval. Does this correspond to error
code 1?

What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board

What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.

How many eads are going into the motor. If only 2, than the motor is
a simple 120V motor and you can check it with your voltmeter, one lead
is neutral and one is the hot lead. The voltage should go off and on
as someone else turns the fan "on" button on the thermostat off and
on. Ifmore than 2 wires, maybe a startng capacitor has gone open, or
as another poster said, yu have bought the farm and need a new control
board..

The error LED on the blower relay circuit board is blinking.
I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit sw currently open, not in lockout).
It blinks slowly on and off forever without a change in interval.
Does this correspond to error code 1?

Upon referencing a more complete list of Fault/Status Conditions, it
appear the Relay Board is not indicating an error because a repeating
"2 sec on / 2 sec off" indicates "Normal Operation".

I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely.

I don't know, but you said you had the blower door
off. *If you're trying to see what the blower does, do
you have the door safety switch taped over while trying to
see it run?

I looked for a switch that would be operated by the panel being
removed but didn't see one.

What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board

What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.

What kind of motor is it? *Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?

It is a conventional "high efficiency non-variable speed" motor with
the following label:
York International
159310
067074000P (or 057074000P)
BL D011-10 CWCC 1HP

Neither the wiring or ladder diagram show a starting capacitor and I
didn't see one.
The motor has following terminals:

L1 - Goes to 120 VAC
L2 - Goes to 120 VAC (different phase)
Gnd

COM - Connects to Relay Board's EAC/24VAC terminal 1
HI - No connection
MED-HI - No connection
MED - Connects to Relay Boards EAC/24VAC terminal 2
MED-LO - No connection
LO - No connection

I moved the connection on MED to remaining speed connections but there
was no difference. In each case, I hear a short buzzing sound as the
motor starts to rotates very weakly (and sometimes in the wrong
direction). I manually spun the motor just prior to it trying to run,
but it didn't help.

Can I check the resistance from L1 to GND and L2 to GND? If open,
would that indicate a bad motor?

How easy is it to disconnect the blower unit from the air handler and
then replace just the motor? Thx

What kind of motor is it? *Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?

After a bit of web surfing, I found out that it is a GE ECM X13 Motor.
Even found a service guide for it!

http://www.cozyparts.com/Lennox-Part...ng%20guide.pdf

http://www.cfmdistributors.com/pdfs/...3MotorTech.pdf

http://www.prokupmedia.com/seminarfi...m_textbook.pdf

http://www.gotoevo.com/GEMotors.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAlzN5tjUYw
Yikes, motor cost $800 in 2010.

On Apr 26, 12:01*am, jay wrote:
The error LED on the blower relay circuit board is blinking.
I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit sw currently open, not in lockout).
It blinks slowly on and off forever without a change in interval.
Does this correspond to error code 1?

Upon referencing a more complete list of Fault/Status Conditions, it
appear the Relay Board is not indicating an error because a repeating
"2 sec on / 2 sec off" indicates "Normal Operation".

I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007..
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely.

I don't know, but you said you had the blower door
off. *If you're trying to see what the blower does, do
you have the door safety switch taped over while trying to
see it run?

I looked for a switch that would be operated by the panel being
removed but didn't see one.

That would be the first furnace I've seen that doesn't
have a safety switch on the blower door. I would
think they are required.





What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board

What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.

What kind of motor is it? *Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?

It is a conventional "high efficiency non-variable speed" motor with
the following label:
York International
159310
067074000P (or 057074000P)
BL D011-10 CWCC 1HP

Neither the wiring or ladder diagram show a starting capacitor and I
didn't see one.
The motor has following terminals:

L1 - Goes to 120 VAC
L2 - Goes to 120 VAC (different phase)
Gnd

I think you mean one goes to hot, the
other to neutral. There is only one phase here.





COM - Connects to Relay Board's EAC/24VAC terminal 1
HI *- * * * * * * * No connection
MED-HI - * * * *No connection
MED - Connects to Relay Boards EAC/24VAC terminal 2
MED-LO - * * * No connection
LO - * * * * * * * *No connection

I moved the connection on MED to remaining speed connections but there
was no difference. In each case, I hear a short buzzing sound as the
motor starts to rotates very weakly (and sometimes in the wrong
direction). I manually spun the motor just prior to it trying to run,
but it didn't help.

Can I check the resistance from L1 to GND and L2 to GND? If open,
would that indicate a bad motor?

No. It appears the motor speed is selected via 24VAC
applied between the desired speed terminal and the
common connection. You say you have the service
manual for the motor, so you could verify that. I'd
disconnect all the 24V wires from the motor. Hook up
some temporary wires or jumpers between 24V from
the furnace transformer and Hi terminal and common
terminal. Make sure you have 120V on the line terminals at the motor
and 24V between Hi and common. If the motor doesn't run, it's kaput.
You could repeat the test
with the other speeds.



How easy is it to disconnect the blower unit from the air handler and
then replace just the motor? Thx

That would depend on the design of what you have.
Usually it's straightforward and not that difficult. That
motor is one of the high eff ones, so it's going to cost
more, but should still be a lot less than $800. If they
want to hose you, it's possible another similar motor
could be used.

On Apr 26, 8:59*am, "
wrote:
On Apr 26, 12:01*am, jay wrote:





The error LED on the blower relay circuit board is blinking.
I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit sw currently open, not in lockout).
It blinks slowly on and off forever without a change in interval.
Does this correspond to error code 1?

Upon referencing a more complete list of Fault/Status Conditions, it
appear the Relay Board is not indicating an error because a repeating
"2 sec on / 2 sec off" indicates "Normal Operation".

I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely.

I don't know, but you said you had the blower door
off. *If you're trying to see what the blower does, do
you have the door safety switch taped over while trying to
see it run?

I looked for a switch that would be operated by the panel being
removed but didn't see one.

That would be the first furnace I've seen that doesn't
have a safety switch on the blower door. *I would
think they are required.







What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board

What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.

What kind of motor is it? *Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?

It is a conventional "high efficiency non-variable speed" motor with
the following label:
York International
159310
067074000P (or 057074000P)
BL D011-10 CWCC 1HP

Neither the wiring or ladder diagram show a starting capacitor and I
didn't see one.
The motor has following terminals:

L1 - Goes to 120 VAC
L2 - Goes to 120 VAC (different phase)
Gnd

I think you mean one goes to hot, the
other to neutral. *There is only one phase here.







COM - Connects to Relay Board's EAC/24VAC terminal 1
HI *- * * * * * * * No connection
MED-HI - * * * *No connection
MED - Connects to Relay Boards EAC/24VAC terminal 2
MED-LO - * * * No connection
LO - * * * * * * * *No connection

I moved the connection on MED to remaining speed connections but there
was no difference. In each case, I hear a short buzzing sound as the
motor starts to rotates very weakly (and sometimes in the wrong
direction). I manually spun the motor just prior to it trying to run,
but it didn't help.

Can I check the resistance from L1 to GND and L2 to GND? If open,
would that indicate a bad motor?

No. *It appears the motor speed is selected via 24VAC
applied between the desired speed terminal and the
common connection. * You say you have the service
manual for the motor, so you could verify that. *I'd
disconnect all the 24V wires from the motor. *Hook up
some temporary wires or jumpers between 24V from
the furnace transformer and Hi terminal and common
terminal. *Make sure you have 120V on the line terminals at the motor
and 24V between Hi and common. *If the motor doesn't run, it's kaput.
You could repeat the test
with the other speeds.



How easy is it to disconnect the blower unit from the air handler and
then replace just the motor? Thx

That would depend on the design of what you have.
Usually it's straightforward and not that difficult. *That
motor is one of the high eff ones, so it's going to cost
more, but should still be a lot less than $800. *If they
want to hose you, it's possible another similar motor
could be used.- Hide quoted text -



If the motor is kaput, since the replacement looks like
it won't be cheap, I'd take it to a local electric motor
repair shop and see what they say. Possible they could fix
it for you for a lot less.

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:01:33 -0700 (PDT), jay
wrote:

The error LED on the blower relay circuit board is blinking.
I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit sw currently open, not in lockout).
It blinks slowly on and off forever without a change in interval.
Does this correspond to error code 1?

Upon referencing a more complete list of Fault/Status Conditions, it
appear the Relay Board is not indicating an error because a repeating
"2 sec on / 2 sec off" indicates "Normal Operation".

I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely.

I don't know, but you said you had the blower door
off. Â*If you're trying to see what the blower does, do
you have the door safety switch taped over while trying to
see it run?

I looked for a switch that would be operated by the panel being
removed but didn't see one.

What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board

What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.

What kind of motor is it? Â*Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?

It is a conventional "high efficiency non-variable speed" motor with
the following label:
York International
159310
067074000P (or 057074000P)
BL D011-10 CWCC 1HP

Neither the wiring or ladder diagram show a starting capacitor and I
didn't see one.
The motor has following terminals:

L1 - Goes to 120 VAC
L2 - Goes to 120 VAC (different phase)
Gnd

COM - Connects to Relay Board's EAC/24VAC terminal 1
HI - No connection
MED-HI - No connection
MED - Connects to Relay Boards EAC/24VAC terminal 2
MED-LO - No connection
LO - No connection

I moved the connection on MED to remaining speed connections but there
was no difference. In each case, I hear a short buzzing sound as the
motor starts to rotates very weakly (and sometimes in the wrong
direction). I manually spun the motor just prior to it trying to run,
but it didn't help.

Can I check the resistance from L1 to GND and L2 to GND? If open,
would that indicate a bad motor?

How easy is it to disconnect the blower unit from the air handler and
then replace just the motor? Thx
Is this a direct drive unit? or an older belt drive?

Belt drive is simple. Direct drive not so simple, but usually not
terribly difficult. You WILL need the correct motor.

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 23:28:40 -0700 (PDT), jay
wrote:

What kind of motor is it? Â*Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?

After a bit of web surfing, I found out that it is a GE ECM X13 Motor.
Even found a service guide for it!

http://www.cozyparts.com/Lennox-Part...ng%20guide.pdf

http://www.cfmdistributors.com/pdfs/...3MotorTech.pdf

http://www.prokupmedia.com/seminarfi...m_textbook.pdf

http://www.gotoevo.com/GEMotors.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAlzN5tjUYw
Yikes, motor cost $800 in 2010.
That's an ECM - very possible there is a control board issue. I
believe the control board is in the motor on that one. The servicing
guide gives you all the test procedures and warnings.

On Thu, 26 Apr 2012 05:59:58 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Apr 26, 12:01Â*am, jay wrote:
The error LED on the blower relay circuit board is blinking.
I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit sw currently open, not in lockout).
It blinks slowly on and off forever without a change in interval.
Does this correspond to error code 1?

Upon referencing a more complete list of Fault/Status Conditions, it
appear the Relay Board is not indicating an error because a repeating
"2 sec on / 2 sec off" indicates "Normal Operation".

I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely.

I don't know, but you said you had the blower door
off. Â*If you're trying to see what the blower does, do
you have the door safety switch taped over while trying to
see it run?

I looked for a switch that would be operated by the panel being
removed but didn't see one.

That would be the first furnace I've seen that doesn't
have a safety switch on the blower door. I would
think they are required.

I've seen quite a few that do not have a safety switch. Likely has
something to do with how easy (or hard) it is to get your hands into
the blower.

to the OP

If all those links you provided ARE for your motor, then it IS an ECM motor.

You are the victum of government beurcorcrates instead of engineers making
engineering decisions.
Any small savings you may have enjoyed from the slightly better efficency
are about to be given up in higher repair costs.

If I were you, if the motor is a standard form factor I would see if it
could be replaced with a standard PSC motor and maybe an external relay to
control it. A standard PSC motor and relay doesn't have high power
electronics and will stand up to lightning and power surges and will save
you money.

Mark

On Thu, 26 Apr 2012 21:28:45 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 23:28:40 -0700 (PDT), jay
wrote:

What kind of motor is it? Â*Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?

After a bit of web surfing, I found out that it is a GE ECM X13 Motor.
Even found a service guide for it!

http://www.cozyparts.com/Lennox-Part...ng%20guide.pdf

http://www.cfmdistributors.com/pdfs/...3MotorTech.pdf

http://www.prokupmedia.com/seminarfi...m_textbook.pdf

http://www.gotoevo.com/GEMotors.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAlzN5tjUYw
Yikes, motor cost $800 in 2010.
That's an ECM - very possible there is a control board issue. I
believe the control board is in the motor on that one. The servicing
guide gives you all the test procedures and warnings.
Upon checking that guide - it is a sealed motor and cannot be easily
tested.

HOWEVER - You only mentioned the 115 volt connections. What about the
low voltage control connection??? There should be a 24 volt AC
connection to terminal C and terminal 1 ( or c and 2, 3,4, or 5
depending on the programming of the motor.

It should have 115 volts on the high voltage connections AT ALL TIMES.
If putting 24 volts AC across C and 1 makes it run you have a control
problem - possibly as simple as a bad control transformer. If putting
power from c-1 does not start the motoer, and from c-2 (or any of the
other numbered terminals) makes it run you have an integrated motor
control problem and the motor will require replacement (or just let it
run at the wrong speed).

On Apr 26, 9:10*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 26 Apr 2012 21:28:45 -0400, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 23:28:40 -0700 (PDT), jay
wrote:

What kind of motor is it? *Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?

After a bit of web surfing, I found out that it is a GE ECM X13 Motor.
Even found a service guide for it!

http://www.cozyparts.com/Lennox-Part...icing_pdfs/ecm....

http://www.cfmdistributors.com/pdfs/...3MotorTech.pdf

http://www.prokupmedia.com/seminarfi...m_textbook.pdf

http://www.gotoevo.com/GEMotors.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAlzN5tjUYw
Yikes, motor cost $800 in 2010.
*That's an ECM - very possible there is a control board issue. I
believe the control board is in the motor on that one. The servicing
guide gives you all the test procedures and warnings.

*Upon checking that guide - it is a sealed motor and cannot be easily
tested.

HOWEVER - You only mentioned the 115 volt connections. What about the
low voltage control connection??? * There should be a 24 volt AC
connection to terminal C and terminal 1 ( or c and 2, 3,4, or 5
depending on the programming of the motor.

It should have 115 volts on the high voltage connections AT ALL TIMES.
If putting 24 volts AC across C and 1 makes it run you have a control
problem - possibly as simple as a bad control transformer. If putting
power from c-1 does not start the motoer, and from c-2 (or any of the
other numbered terminals) makes it run you have an integrated motor
control problem and the motor will require replacement (or just let it
run at the wrong speed).

It turns out to be an ECM 230VAC 1 HP motor. Motor's L1 goes to 120VAC
(1st phase). Motor's L2 goes to 120VAC (2nd phase). To run the motor,
it needs 24 VAC between COM and any one of the following: LO, LO-MED,
MED, MED-HI, HI. All the proper voltages were present at the final
connectors to the motor, so it appears to be a bad motor. I called
York (bought out by Johnson Controls) and their customer service told
me it was still under warranty based on air handler's serial number,
but only a qualified service tech could exchange it for a new motor :
( A Genteq replacement motor (original was a GE) is available to me
for $465 from a local dealer. I guess it will be cheaper for me to pay
for a qualified service tech's labor to avoid the cost of the motor.