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[email protected][_2_] trader4@optonline.net[_2_] is offline
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Default York Blower Motor Not Running; Error LED Blinking

On Apr 26, 8:59*am, "
wrote:
On Apr 26, 12:01*am, jay wrote:





The error LED on the blower relay circuit board is blinking.
I think it is blinking the error code 1 (limit sw currently open, not in lockout).
It blinks slowly on and off forever without a change in interval.
Does this correspond to error code 1?


Upon referencing a more complete list of Fault/Status Conditions, it
appear the Relay Board is not indicating an error because a repeating
"2 sec on / 2 sec off" indicates "Normal Operation".


I had a complete York AC/Heating System installed in my house in 2007.
Recently air stopped coming out of the vents even when the fan is set
to On via the thermostat unit. I went in the attic and opened the air
handler unit (Model AHP60D2CH21A) and saw that the squirrel fan's
blades are not rotating. Actually they rotate slowly for a few
moments, then gives up and then tries to start repeatedly. It even
rotates in the wrong direction once in a while! The motor is not
binding as it turns freely.


I don't know, but you said you had the blower door
off. *If you're trying to see what the blower does, do
you have the door safety switch taped over while trying to
see it run?


I looked for a switch that would be operated by the panel being
removed but didn't see one.


That would be the first furnace I've seen that doesn't
have a safety switch on the blower door. *I would
think they are required.







What component is likely to be bad?
1) Motor
2) Starter capacitor
3) Some type of safety switch / thermocouple
4) Circuit board


What things can I check with a volt meter? Thx.


What kind of motor is it? *Conventional or one of the
new variable speed, high efficiency, VSDC type?


It is a conventional "high efficiency non-variable speed" motor with
the following label:
York International
159310
067074000P (or 057074000P)
BL D011-10 CWCC 1HP


Neither the wiring or ladder diagram show a starting capacitor and I
didn't see one.
The motor has following terminals:


L1 - Goes to 120 VAC
L2 - Goes to 120 VAC (different phase)
Gnd


I think you mean one goes to hot, the
other to neutral. *There is only one phase here.







COM - Connects to Relay Board's EAC/24VAC terminal 1
HI *- * * * * * * * No connection
MED-HI - * * * *No connection
MED - Connects to Relay Boards EAC/24VAC terminal 2
MED-LO - * * * No connection
LO - * * * * * * * *No connection


I moved the connection on MED to remaining speed connections but there
was no difference. In each case, I hear a short buzzing sound as the
motor starts to rotates very weakly (and sometimes in the wrong
direction). I manually spun the motor just prior to it trying to run,
but it didn't help.


Can I check the resistance from L1 to GND and L2 to GND? If open,
would that indicate a bad motor?


No. *It appears the motor speed is selected via 24VAC
applied between the desired speed terminal and the
common connection. * You say you have the service
manual for the motor, so you could verify that. *I'd
disconnect all the 24V wires from the motor. *Hook up
some temporary wires or jumpers between 24V from
the furnace transformer and Hi terminal and common
terminal. *Make sure you have 120V on the line terminals at the motor
and 24V between Hi and common. *If the motor doesn't run, it's kaput.
You could repeat the test
with the other speeds.



How easy is it to disconnect the blower unit from the air handler and
then replace just the motor? Thx


That would depend on the design of what you have.
Usually it's straightforward and not that difficult. *That
motor is one of the high eff ones, so it's going to cost
more, but should still be a lot less than $800. *If they
want to hose you, it's possible another similar motor
could be used.- Hide quoted text -



If the motor is kaput, since the replacement looks like
it won't be cheap, I'd take it to a local electric motor
repair shop and see what they say. Possible they could fix
it for you for a lot less.